THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING ELEGANT

LE SAPE

LAURA HUNTERANIMAL INSTINCTS

THE AFRICANISSUE

SNEAK PREVIEW AT GWEN STEFANI’S

NEW COLLECTION

MAY 2011ISSUE 1

£4.95

CONTENTSAfrican influence on fashionUnion investigates why Africa is a massive influence on fashion

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Gone Wild: Turn it up in tribal-glam evening wear

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The Importance of Being Elegant: Despite living in poverty stricken conditions, Le Sape show us the true meaning of ‘a passion for fashion’

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Union’s opinion:Our favorite pieces of the season

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Animal Instincts:Head piece designer Sarah Hudson Philips showcases her latest designs

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L.A.M.B:First look at Gwen Stefani’s new and exciting collection.

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CONTRIBUTORS

SARAH TAYLOR LAURA HUNTER REBECCA BARLEY

LAUREN CLARKE SAMANTHA CROSS HANNAH SWIFT

Notable fashion writer Sarah Taylor brings us a fascinating insight into the life of The Sapeurs, (a fashion cult in the Republic of Congo.)What inspires you about Africa: “At every corner you turn in Africa, there is a different story to tell.”

Model Laura Hunter bring’s her enthusiastic and wild personality to our Tribal shoot. Laura truly captures the essence of Africa in this shoot. What inspires you about Africa: “The People.”

World-renowned fashion stylist Rebecca Barley brings her flare for fashion and creativity into our African shoot. What inspires you about Africa: “The strong and bold fabrics.”

In her first appearance at UNION, British photographer Lauren Clarke captures the eccentric vibe of tribal fashion.What inspires you about Africa: ‘The variety of rich and vibrant colours.’

Model of the moment Samantha Cross graces us with her presence, bringing our African fashion shoot to life. What inspires you about Africa: “The enthusiasm and sprit of the country.”

With this being our debut issue our editor Hannah Swift takes up her other passion of photography and shoots our tribal shoot. What inspires you about Africa: “Through the poverty in Africa there still seems to hope and happiness.”

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WELCOME

Welcome to UNION, the first global magazine dedicated to the achievements and influences in fashion from all the different countries around the world. In our debut issue we are focusing on the breathtaking country, Africa. We look at how this remarkable country has been influencing designers for the past decade and how it’s presence on the catwalks is becoming more and more dominant.

For the cover, which I personally shot, we had our stunning cover girl Laura Hunter taking on the role of a tribal warrior, striking powerful and eccentric poses, bringing the shoot to life. We also have Model of the Moment Samantha Cross showing us the latest trends on the catwalk. Matched with powerful backgrounds the results are truly spectacular!

Elsewhere in the magazine, we get to hear about the infamous fashion cult-Le Sape. With words from the well-known writer Sarah Taylor we get a fabulous insight into the history behind Le Sape and the typical life a Sapeur leads. This informative article is paired with influential photos from the world-renowned photographer Danielle Tamagni.

We also take a look at how celebrities are wearing this hugely popular trend and our Head Stylist Rebecca Barley walks you through how you can get their looks.

Finally, we get a preview into the brand new collection by L.A.M.B, Gwen Stefani’s label. With bold geometric shapes and vibrant colours Stefani proves to us once again that she’s much more than just singer.

HANNAH SWIFT, EDITOR

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THE SPIRIT OF AFRICAVIBRANT, RICH, ENERGETIC COLOURS. BOLD, STRUCTURED, GEOMETRIC SHAPES. ALL MAKE

UP ONE OF THE FASHION WORLDS HOTTEST TREND. UNION DISCOVERS THE INFLUENCES BEHIND THE TREND THAT IS RE-APPEARING SEASON AFTER SEASON.

WORDS HANNAH SWIFT

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African inspired fashion has been drifting in and out since the 70’s. However in the past decade sculpted geometric shapes and rich spicy colours have been reappearing on our catwalks from season to season. These African influenced clothes have be seen all over the runway in London, Paris, New York and L.A. These days it’s very rare to not see a single Tribal influenced dress in at least one of the top designers collections. Marc Jacobs, Paul Smith, Roberto Cavalli, Diane Von Furstenberg, Yves Saint Laurent are designers that have created collection after collection using Africa as their inspiration. It would be easy for designers to focus on the poverty and hardship of the country for inspiration, creating a more sombre image of Africa. However they look at the culture of the country and the people that inhabit it in a positive and exciting way, creating bright and dazzling collections. Inspiration is taken from the men and women from all different tribes who have used their creative touch and turned their culture into a major fashion style. These tribes have introduced designers into a new way of approaching fashion and collaborating new lines. Influence is also seen in the beautiful fabric which all have prints, in rich colors and tones which you would undoubtedly associate with Africa. An example is the famous “dashiki” with its elaborate embroidery and extraordinary colors which were popular in the 60’s and remains still today. Combine this with multi gold bangles, intricately carved wooden bracelets, multi-chain African necklaces and oversized hooped earrings it’s no wonder it keeps re-appearing on our catwalks. It’s safe to say that Africa will never fail to influence people around the world. The rich, vibrant colours and elaborate materials will flood our runways for years to come and thank god, because this is a trend that we certainly don’t want to disappear.

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YELLOW DRESS, £95, TOPSHOP UNIQUE; GOLD

CUFF, £ 480, PHILIPPE AUDIBERT; STUDDED

CUFF, £345, TOM BINNS

GONEWILDAMID THE VIBRANT BACKDROP OF

AFRICAN MATERIAL SAMANTHA CROSS BRINGS THE TRUE ESSENCE OF AFRICA

BACK TO LIFE IN THE FIRST OF THE SPRING COLLECTIONS.

PHOTOGRAPHER LAUREN CLARKE

THIS PAGE:LACE TOP, £250, D&G;HEADBAND, £95, EUGENIA KIM;NECKLACE, £70, BY MALENE BIRGER

OPPOSITE PAGE:RED DRESS, £110, RELIGION; GOLD CUFF, £345, PHILIPPE AUDIBERT; LEATHER SANDALS, £540, YVES SAINT LAURENT

BLACK FRINGE JACKET, £120, TOP-SHOP UNIQUE; SHORTS, £290,

NOTIFY

THIS PAGE:

FUR CARDIGAN, £255, MOSCHINO CHEAP

AND CHIC;

OPPOSITE PAGE:FUR GILLET, £85,

TOPSHOP UNIQUE;HIGH WAISTED PANTS,

£37, WOLFORD; RING, £140, KENNETH JAY LANE

WHITE DRESS, £95, TOPSHOP UNIQUE

THIS SEASON LOVES:

foot forward for South Africa with it’s new capsule collection, Project PEP. The range features a variety of shoes and accessories, from which twenty-five per cent of net sales will be donated to the funding of the Simelela Rape Centre in Cape Town. “We are women helping women and we are proud to continue our collaboration with the compelling and urgent initiatives of the Elton John Aids Foundation and to provide a voice for under-privileged women in South Africa,” says Jimmy Choo president Tamara Mellon. The collection is made up of tote bags, clutches, ballet flats, heels and flip-flops in vibrant punk rock prints. This is an exciting and creative collection backing a more than worthy cause.

Shoe maker Jimmy Choo has joined forces with the Elton John Aids Foundation and together are putting their best

PEP TALK

The infamous and unique fashion brand Missoni have launched their highly anticipated 2011 collection, and what a collection it is!

MISSONI GOES PRINT

Designer Anela Missoni has created the ultimate colorful, funky, bright collection that is heavily inspired by tribal prints. She has created tribal patterns using flashes of yellows, reds, oranges and purples. The collection includes pieces that are fit for each season. The short mini skirts and dresses are all items to be lusted after. Each item is perfect for summer and teamed up with a bold sun hat and gold vibrant bangles give an exotic feel. Have any of these items from the collection in your wardrobe and you’ll be the envy of every woman.

Collection avalible at www.missoni.com

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UNION027

THE

IMPORTANCE

OF BEING

ELEGANTIN THE HEART OF AFRICA LIES A SMALL STATE CALLED THE

REPUBLIC OF CONGO. HERE INHABITS ONE OF THE MOST FORMIDABLE FASHION CULTS IN THE WORLD- LE SAPE.

WORDS SARAH TAYLOR PHTOGRAPHY DANIELLE TAMAGNI

Le Sape, (La societe des ambianceurs et des personnes elegantas), translates in English as ‘Society of advanced and elegant people.” It is evident why they are called this when you scrutinize their dress code and their need to wear designer clothes. This group of men pride themselves on owning the most expensive, luxurious and extravagant fashion in the world. However, to them, it is not just a fashion statement, it is a religion. The Sapeurs, as they are called, are recognisable for their bold bright suits, their designer belts and their general air of elegance. What makes the Sapeurs so unique is that whilst they look dapper and chic with their pristine suits and their smart, polished shoes, they are living in the slums of one of the highest poverty stricken states in Africa. The roots of Le Sape go back a long way. The earliest they can be traced back to is 1922, when a Congolese soldier fighting in the WW1 came back fully kitted out in authentic French attire. He gained instant admiration and star status because of his clothes. This generated uproar with the President at the time, Mobutu, who quickly enforced the rules that everyone must wear traditional African clothing. It wasn’t until the late 60’s that emerging musician Papa Wemba, who prided himself on his flamboyant and exaggerated style, took things into his own hands and formed a revolution in self-presentation. He quickly set up his own village in which his own fashion codes were enforced. The look was irresistible to the Congolese all over the world, and Le Sape was officially born. However to Papa Wemba being a

Sapeur was not just about having flashy suits and the most expensive belts. It also involved their own code of professional conduct, code of honour and strict notions of morality, which they must adhere to in order to stay in this exclusive club. The Sapeurs have 3 main proverbs: “A Congolese Sapeur is a happy man even if he does not eat, because wearing proper clothes feeds the soul and gives pleasure to the body.”“A real Sapeur needs to be cultivated and speak fluently, but also have a solid moral ethic (that means beyond the appearance and vanity of smart, expensive clothing there is a moral nobility of the individual).” “When the Sapeur expresses himself through the harmony of his clothes, he is returning his admiration to God.” According to the World Bank, ‘In the democratic Republic of Congo, the average annual income is about $100 USD, among the lowest

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in the world’. It is amazing then that the Sapeurs are happy to spend three times that amount all for the sake of Cavalli. Whether you look at the Sapeurs as enthusiasts for fashion or materialistic men you cannot deny their flare and dedication to elegance.

There are two main areas in the Congo where Le Sape are based, Brazzaville and Kinshasa. Even though each Sapeur has his own personal style and as an individual expresses his own personality through his clothes, each area has a basic guide to dressing. In Brazzaville they have a strict three-colour rule, which includes accessories. The Sapeurs must follow this or they will be looked upon as having

bad style. Whereas in Kinshasa they have more of a “hip-hop look” and don’t have such strict rules as they focus more on bold patterns and vivid colours. In 2009 photographer Danielle Tamagni entered the exclusive world of the Sapeurs and created the book ‘Gentlemen of Bacongo’ which celebrates the elegance and style of Le Sape. Tamagni captured the Sapeurs in their most sophisticated and suave outfits, however what makes the images so powerful and extraordinary is how they are taken in their natural surroundings of the Congo. The eye popping, compelling photography in this book gives a true sense of the hardship and political instability of the Congo, which makes this unique group of individuals so inspirational.

British designer Paul Smith said, ‘we have become so complacent in today’s world that everything is so rapidly available to us. The Sapeurs, however, have to work hard and dedicate time and money to afford and source these clothes. Their elegance and pride is a nice dose of optimism to the region.’ Le Sape is not just a group of sophisticatedly dressed men, it is who they are. “Le Sape is our essence,” explains Sapeur Willy Cavory in the book ‘Gentlemen of Bacongo’, “It’s our way of life and not just the dressing. It is how we express our individuality and our character. Along with our families, Le Sape, is our reason for being.” It is this devotion that makes Le Sape so unique. Each Sapeur strives to be the best and this is achieved through wearing designer clothes and possessing the so important labels. Designer brands such as Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Pierre Cardin, Versace and Prada are considered saints in their eyes. Sapeurs battle against each other over who has the best labels. They will argue down to the label on their underwear if it means they win. However it is a metaphorical battle. The Sapeurs believe your clothes do all the fighting for you; there is no need for bloodshed and if there is you are not fit to be called a Sapeur. The ultimate aspiration for a Sapeur is to go back to their fashion roots and go to Paris. “To go

to Paris- the capital of fashion- is historically the dream of a Sapeur,” Tamagni states in his book, “This is where they would all like to go one day. Some succeed in obtaining a visa but for others it remains an improbable ideal. They dream of going to Paris and returning to Brazzaville as an aristocrat of ultimate elegance.”However there is a darker side to this flamboyant group of people who wear expensive and fashion labelled clothes. The annual income of most Sapeurs is insufficient to cover the costs of the level of dressing that they desire. The high standards that they expect and the substantial amount of money needed forces many Sapeurs to resort to illegal means to obtain their outfits. Many go to such extreme lengths to be dressed in Armani it has lead to imprisonment. Even the wealthy Papa Wemba had to resort to tricks in order to keep himself clothed in Gucci. He smuggled people into Europe illegally claiming they were members of his band, which lead to his arrest in 2003 all for the sake of high fashion.However when you look at the Sapeurs, whether it is as petty thieves or as artists whom strive to express themselves through fashion, it is safe to say, they look great doing it.

ANIMAL

INSTINCTS SOUTH AFRICAN BORN MODEL LAURA HUNTER GIVES THE BRAND NEW COLLECTION OF TRIBAL HEAD GEAR

BY DESIGNER SARAH HUDSON PHILIPS A FRESH AND EXCITING TWIST

PHOTOGRPAHY HANNAH SWIFT STYLING REBECCA BARLEY

L.A.M.B SPRING/SUMMER 2010GWEN STEFANI’S BACK WITH HER BRAND NEW COLLECTION FOR HER LABEL

L.A.M.B. BOLD TRIBAL PRINT PARTY DRESSES HIT THE CATWALK TO THE BEAT OF BANGING DUB AND REGAE TUNES.

THURSDAY 16TH SEPTEMBER 2010, NEW YORK

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Designer: L.A.M.B

Inspiration: Classic Gwen Stefani style mixed with African and tribal influences.

Top Looks: Drop-crotch print trousers; strapless African-print dress with a structured top and ruffle skirt; tie dye maxi dress; tailored gray-blue suit with pleated pants paired with African print crop top.

Accessories: Leopard-print shoulder bags; Bold print fedoras; strap-py platform heels with braided and raffia detailing; chunky vibrant African- bead necklace.

Who was there: Mel B, Omarion, Russell Simmons, Debbie Harry and of obviously her husband Gavin Rossdale and son Kingston.

Music: Loud, energetic, reggae themed music which was a mix of songs from Stefani’s solo career, No Doubt and songs/beats from Lady Saw.

What we thought: L.A.M.B has always grooved to an Afro-Caribbean beat. This season Stefani has gone above and beyond combining strong tribal prints with bold and vibrant colours. The fashions ranged from crop tops to ruffled dresses to weekender bags all with a high African vibe. “Prints,” Stefani said backstage before the show, “are really hard to do and really hard to wear.” However this collection made prints work by combining bright prints with dark hues, checked fabrics, busiters, embellishments, structured tailored trousers, cropped tops and African bags! The line was full of clothes perfect for an expensive vacation and items every woman would love to own. In addition to punchy plaids, distressed leopards, and reinterpreted stripes, the collection fea-tured a lot of head wear and chunky bright jewellery, which gave the line that little something extra. Gwen’s Spring 2011 collection is far more sophisticated than any of her previous lines. The African theme echoed from piece to piece making this collection one of Stefani’s strongest yet. We think it’s safe to say we’ve fallen in love with Gwen Stefani all over again.

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