MADE JAPAN · 2014-06-16 · LIPSTICK THAT LASTS ... and highlighting the latest product and...
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Shiseido and the Chair of the Science Committee, IFSCC Praesidium since 2008. Dr Kanda met with the organisers of in-cosmetics Asia, the leading personal care ingredients show in Asia, to discuss his favourite cosmetic innovations. All the innovations listed below have received top awards from the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) – the world’s most authoritative conference for cosmetic science and technologies. LIPSTICK THAT LASTS “Red lipstick is very fashionable in Japan and consumers love strong colours,” says Dr Kanda. “But stopping the colour coming off when the wearer takes a drink has always been a problem. Now Shiseido has invented a formulation to remedy this. With this product, when the consumer presses their lips to a cup, the lipstick divides into two layers: the layer closest to the consumer’s lips which contains the colour pigments, and a second layer on top of that which is transparent. When the lipstick wearer takes a drink, the colour stays on their lips, leaving only the transparent layer on the cup.” SOPHISTICATED SUNSCREEN “Most consumers want a sunscreen that will stay on when they’re in the sun but wash off easily after sunbathing. But some sunscreens stick to the skin and are difficult to remove,” says Dr Kanda. He is proud of an innovative sunscreen by Shiseido, with a special pH-responsive resin that changes structure depending on what it comes into contact with. “Our lotion will stay water- resistant if you jump into the sea but when it comes into contact with soap, it changes pH and becomes easier to rinse off.” EVALUATION ADVANCEMENT In recent years, the cosmetic industry has started using advanced techniques for analysing and evaluating how cosmetics work, says Dr Kanda: “Examples of this are NIRS (near infrared spectroscopy) and tunnel electron microscopy. Scientists have been able to use NIRS to analyse levels of water in the skin with very high accuracy. Meanwhile, tunnel electron microscopy has been used to look deep into the skin’s structure without damaging it.” Dr Kanda believes these new cosmetic technologies are meeting demand from consumers who want visual confirmation that these products can improve their lives. To find out more about innovation from Japan, visit in-cosmetics Asia (Bangkok, 4-6 November 2014), where ingredient suppliers and speakers will be showcasing and highlighting the latest product and marketing trends from Japan. Author Ivan Rahal, Reed Exhibitions www.in-cosmeticsasia.com Despite facing a challenging economy at home, Japan’s top cosmetic brands are showing steady growth in the global markets. Kao and Shiseido are making advances in the demanding Chinese market, while Pola’s debut in Hong Kong last year and Kose’s US$135m purchase of US based colour cosmetic and skin care brand Tarte are both proof of this growth. While growth has been slow (0.2% between 2012 and 2013) in recent years, Japan remains the world’s second biggest cosmetic market, with domestic consumption worth more than $47bn annually. According to Euromonitor International, it accounts for 11% of global sales and has a 39% share of the Asia Pacific personal care market. A SILVER OPPORTUNITY Changes in the country’s population and environment are also presenting interesting and lucrative opportunities. One important factor in this huge market is age. It is estimated that, by 2015, 50% of the Japanese population will be over the age of 50. Anti-ageing is undoubtedly a key factor in the country’s world-record high per capita for skin care consumption (almost $20bn). POLLUTION CONCERNS Adding to this spend are Japanese consumer concerns that ‘hazy’ pollution coming from China may contain micro-particles that can be damaging to the skin. These tiny particles in the air reduce visibility and cause the air to appear hazy when levels are elevated. Although the micro-particles won’t normally penetrate the skin, their presence can influence skin- surface barrier functions, leading to dryness or even acne. Products catering to this issue feature the term ‘anti-PM2.5’ in their product claims and marketing campaigns. EASY DOES IT With these social and economic factors in mind, a great way to boost sales is to offer innovative products that are simple to use. Filling this brief for innovation are the new shorter “all-in-one” beauty products, such as Dr Ci:Labo’s hugely successful Aqua-Collagen- Gel, which features five functions (lotion, serum, emulsion, cream and night mask) and Unilever Japan’s Dove, which offers a make-up remover, face wash and lotion all in the one product. LEADING THE WAY Innovation is a topic close to the heart of Dr Fujihiro Kanda, a Senior Manager at June 2014 SPC Asia 51 in-cosmetics asiaevent preview MADE IN JAPAN This year’s in-cosmetics Asia will feature a Japan Country Focus. Ivan Rahal discovers the latest innovations from this trend-setting market 051 SPCA0614 in cos asia AK_spc feature template 09/05/2014 10:57 Page 51
Transcript of MADE JAPAN · 2014-06-16 · LIPSTICK THAT LASTS ... and highlighting the latest product and...
Shiseido and the Chair of the ScienceCommittee, IFSCC Praesidium since 2008.Dr Kanda met with the organisers ofin-cosmetics Asia, the leading personal careingredients show in Asia, to discuss hisfavourite cosmetic innovations. All theinnovations listed below have received topawards from the International Federation ofSocieties of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) –the world’s most authoritative conferencefor cosmetic science and technologies.
LIPSTICK THAT LASTS
“Red lipstick is very fashionable in Japanand consumers love strong colours,” says DrKanda. “But stopping the colour comingoff when the wearer takes a drink has
always been a problem.Now Shiseido has inventeda formulation to remedythis. With this product,when the consumer presses
their lips to a cup, the lipstick divides intotwo layers: the layer closest to theconsumer’s lips which contains the colourpigments, and a second layer on top of thatwhich is transparent. When the lipstickwearer takes a drink, the colour stays ontheir lips, leaving only the transparent layeron the cup.”
SOPHISTICATED SUNSCREEN
“Most consumers want a sunscreen thatwill stay on when they’re in the sun butwash off easily after sunbathing. But somesunscreens stick to the skin and are difficultto remove,” says Dr Kanda. He is proud ofan innovative sunscreen by Shiseido, with aspecial pH-responsive resin that changesstructure depending on what it comes intocontact with. “Our lotion will stay water-resistant if you jump into the sea but whenit comes into contact with soap, it changespH and becomes easier to rinse off.”
EVALUATION ADVANCEMENT
In recent years, the cosmetic industry hasstarted using advanced techniques foranalysing and evaluating how cosmeticswork, says Dr Kanda: “Examples of this areNIRS (near infrared spectroscopy) andtunnel electron microscopy. Scientists havebeen able to use NIRS to analyse levels ofwater in the skin with very high accuracy.Meanwhile, tunnel electron microscopy hasbeen used to look deep into the skin’sstructure without damaging it.” Dr Kandabelieves these new cosmetic technologiesare meeting demand from consumers whowant visual confirmation that theseproducts can improve their lives.
To find out more about innovation fromJapan, visit in-cosmetics Asia (Bangkok, 4-6November 2014), where ingredientsuppliers and speakers will be showcasingand highlighting the latest product andmarketing trends from Japan.
Author
Ivan Rahal, Reed Exhibitions www.in-cosmeticsasia.com
Despite facing a challenging economyat home, Japan’s top cosmetic brands areshowing steady growth in the globalmarkets. Kao and Shiseido are makingadvances in the demanding Chinesemarket, while Pola’s debut in Hong Konglast year and Kose’s US$135m purchase ofUS based colour cosmetic and skin carebrand Tarte are both proof of this growth.
While growth has been slow (0.2%between 2012 and 2013) in recent years,Japan remains the world’s second biggestcosmetic market, with domesticconsumption worth more than $47bnannually. According to EuromonitorInternational, it accounts for 11% of globalsales and has a 39% share of the Asia Pacificpersonal care market.
A SILVER OPPORTUNITY
Changes in the country’s population andenvironment are also presenting interestingand lucrative opportunities.
One important factor in this hugemarket is age. It is estimated that, by 2015,50% of the Japanese population will beover the age of 50. Anti-ageing isundoubtedly a key factor in the country’sworld-record high per capita for skin careconsumption (almost $20bn).
POLLUTION CONCERNS
Adding to this spend are Japaneseconsumer concerns that ‘hazy’ pollutioncoming from China may containmicro-particles that can be damaging tothe skin. These tiny particles in the airreduce visibility and cause the air to appearhazy when levels are elevated. Although themicro-particles won’t normally penetratethe skin, their presence can influence skin-surface barrier functions, leading to drynessor even acne. Products catering to this issuefeature the term ‘anti-PM2.5’ in theirproduct claims and marketing campaigns.
EASY DOES IT
With these social and economic factors inmind, a great way to boost sales is to offerinnovative products that are simple to use.Filling this brief for innovation are the newshorter “all-in-one”beauty products, such asDr Ci:Labo’s hugelysuccessful Aqua-Collagen-Gel, which features fivefunctions (lotion, serum, emulsion, creamand night mask) and Unilever Japan’s Dove,which offers a make-up remover, face washand lotion all in the one product.
LEADING THE WAY
Innovation is a topic close to the heart ofDr Fujihiro Kanda, a Senior Manager at
June 2014 SPC Asia 51
in-cosmetics asiaevent preview
MADE INJAPAN
This year’s in-cosmeticsAsia will feature a JapanCountry Focus. Ivan Rahal
discovers the latestinnovations from thistrend-setting market
051 SPCA0614 in cos asia AK_spc feature template 09/05/2014 10:57 Page 51
