Machine Stitching TechniquesObj. 3.02 Understand Engineering & Construction

Stitch Lengths

Stitch Length is determined by the purpose.

A medium stitch length is most common.

Basting stitches are very long.

Reinforcement stitches are very short.

Standard Stitching Use: Permanent seams & construction

details.

Most Fabrics: 10-12 inches Finer Fabrics: Shorter stitch between 12-15

stitches per inch.

Heavy Fabrics: Longer stitch 8-10 stitches per inch.

Basting Machine basting holds two pieces

of fabric together until they are permanently stitched.

Used also on a single layer of fabric for: Easing Gathering Marking guidelines

Reinforcement Stitching Adds strength to areas that will be

clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as armhole, crotch and corners.

Short stitch – 15-20 stitches per inch.

Stay-stitching

Prevents fabric stretchingPlaced along bias & curved

edgesAdded after:

Fabric markingBefore pinningBastingPermanent stitching

Stay-Stitching cont.

Stay-stitching should be done on a single layer of fabric 1/8 inch from seam line & within the seam allowance.

Acts as a guide for clipping & joining curved edges.

Directional Stitching

Helps prevent a seam from changing or stretching while stitching.

Produced by stitching with or in the direction of the fabric grain.

Standard Seam Stitching

Produces

5/8 inch seam

Used in most patterns.

Plain seam: 5/8 inch

Backstitching Secures the ends

of a row of stitching.

Secures the ends of a row of stitching.

Begin ½ inch in from end.

Stitch backward to edge of fabric.

Continue sewing to other end.

Backstitch ½ inch from end.

Understitching

Keeps facing or the under side of fabric rolled out of sight.

Created from standard stitching

Stitch from right side of fabric through facing & seam allowances, 1/8 inch from seam line.

Topstitching

Decorative or functional stitching placed on the outside of a garment.

Outlines – Seams

Secures - Facings

Attaches – Pockets

Stitches - Pleats

Holds - Hems

Edgestitching

Holds fabric & seams in place.

Row of stitching ¼ inch from finished edge.

Used in areas as: Neck edges Zippers

Stitch-in-the-ditch Holds two or more

layers of fabric together at the seams.

Secures: Necklines Armholes Waistband facings

Standard stitching on the outside of a garment in the groove of a seam line.

Zigzag Stitching Zigzag stitch

uses:

Finish seams Stitch

buttonholes Attach cording

& elastic Create

decorative designs.

Button Hole

Seam Finish

Specialty Stitches Most machines

have a variety of specialty stitches.

Specialty Stitches Add decorative

aspect to garment Can be made by a

serger or sewing machine.

Machine & Serger specialty stitches