LUXURY ANALYSIS

Kahlia Taylor & Kaity Williams

Wedding Dress

CATEGORY: Clothing

History

◦ Idea was around since the middle ages

◦ Both upper & lower class wore dresses

◦ Made popular by queen Victoria during the 19th century

◦ Weddings were about politics (aristocratic)

◦ Upper Class Lower Class

◦ - bold colors - best church dress

◦ - rich fabrics (velvet, silk, satin)

◦ - current fashion

Victoria's Dress

◦ Long, embroidered

◦ Long veil, 4 yards

◦ Elaborate design (orange flowers)

◦ Silk, satin & lace

◦ 18ft. Train

Typology

◦ This specific dress was found in a shop window at the luxury quadrilateral.

◦ Restriction: sign of wealth, price

◦ Semiotic Virtuosity: idea of white meaning pure

◦ Specialized knowledge: the more elaborate your dress the better you represented your

family and wealth

◦ Linkage to personality: showed you were high in society

◦ In previous times it would be considered pure luxury but in today‘s society it is

accessible and the basic features of the dress have remained the same.

Visual Codes

◦ Exoticism: lace, fabric, length of train and veil, as well as the accent pieces that adorn

the dress

◦ Gold

Map Goods

◦ Top Left

Analysis

◦ The wedding dress shows richness, fascination associated with the aristocratic or

bourgeois group. The better the dress looks the higher up you were in society with the

bourgeois it showed that they too could have something of value that fit into the

stereotype the aristocrats centered around the product. The luxury is internalized as a

wedding dress is a representation of how the woman wearing it thinks about herself but

it is also externalized as what she wants to portray to the world and how she wants

other to visualize her. This glamour is alluring as it’s the person wearing the dress and

how they wear it that draws peoples attention to them.

Porcelain Pots Category: Long lasting

leisure

History

Origination: China (Shang Dynasty 1600-1046 B.C.)

Chinese would export and expand the product via silk road to all of Asia & Europe

Value was based on association

In Europe the Medici family in Florence made the 1st porcelain attempt to reproduce it

3 types:

1. Hard paste

2. Soft paste

3. Bone china

Typology

◦ Restriction: Associated with everyone but mostly the upper class

◦ Complexity: still made but antiques such as fine china is looked at as something rear

◦ Semiotic: value was based on association so if you were upper class it was deemed

better quality and value

◦ Knowledge: its history, what part of the world it was associated with

◦ Accessibility: everyone could have one but its quality and value was based on your

social class

◦ Old: based on its history

Visual Codes

◦ Exoticism, ceramic pottery

◦ Could be gold, other elements were sometimes added to the china to heighten its

value

Map Goods

◦ Top Right

Analysis

◦ Meanings: mostly associated with the upper class as they could afford better quality

china also it was used differently. For the lower class it was simply pots and pans

◦ It is distinct, richness, enchantment as well as fascination is based on where it came

from and the design on it.

◦ Values: Mass, everyone had access but not everyone indulged. It was referred

sometimes restricted depending on where it came from and who made it. Someone

could own it and feel as though it made them closer to a higher social class where as if

it was seen in your home you were considered wealthier.

◦ The way it looks is alluring as well as its uses. It most likely had to be imported so the

travel and distinct is also a big factor in analyzing its glamour.

FanCategory: leisure/

clothing

History

◦ Ancient ruins show us that hand fans were used as far back as the 4th century BC. Hand fans disappeared from Europe in the middle ages but made a comeback in the 13th and 14th centuries. Fans were brought to Europe from the Middle East and China\Japan. In the 17th century fans from East Asia were popularly displayed by wealthy women coming from well off families. Queens also carried fans along with members of their court. They were seen as high status, exotic items. They would be given as gift to royalty. In the 18th century fans were being made in Europe by skilled artisans and craftsmen. They were made with silk and parchment adorned with detailed designs. The fans were used by the royal court to convey secret messages.

Typology

◦ Luxury register- throughout history folding hand fans were available to a

range of individuals. This fan is from the 18th century, a period when

they only would have belong to someone wealthy or royal. This fan is

very detailed with patterns and images. Folding fans were seen as

exotic yet useful. It took a special knowledge to know where the fans

came from and what materials were used in its making to truly

appreciate the fan. These fans were linked to the person\body

because they were often carried by the women and could be found in

her hand. They fans were also used to cover their faces and waved to

cool the women- this created an attachment between the women

and the fan.

◦ They were pure luxury.

◦ They have old luxury characteristics- status, exclusivity, but they also

served to be useful.

Visual Codes

◦ exoticism: orient, mystery (secret messages)

◦ gold: royalty, art

Map

◦ Bottom, left corner: requiring a knowledge of material and craftsmanship,

representation of travel and culture, but not as expensive as many other women’s

accessories of the time.

Analysis

◦ Not only were they exotic and beautiful they were also used to protect women from the sun, cool them, and used by the women of the royal court to convey secret messages. Although they came from exotic lands they weren’t the most expensive thing.

◦ They were exclusive and either came from far lands in Asia or from skilled European craftsmen, this gave the gave the fans worldliness and represented travel. Since the fans can be traced back to ancient times they are also have historical\traditional values.

◦ They were restricted to the royal court and well off women. This lifestyle came walks in the garden where they may their fans or at the afternoon tea.

◦ Internalized because it was used for personal comfort. Externalized because they were a display of wealth and worldliness but also used to communicate messages with others in their class.

◦ Concerning glamour these fans had female allure, displayed that women using them were on the move, portrayed travel, and they were a communication tool used within the social class- adding the glamorous system

Chandelier Category: leisure

History

◦ The earliest chandeliers were used to hold candles by the wealthy in medieval times. In

the 15th century chandeliers were a popular decorative feature in palaces and homes

of the nobility and clergy. Its high cost made it a symbol of luxury and status. The word

chandelier is often associated with class. It comes from the French word “chandelle”

which means candle holder. In history they were seen synonymous with elegance,

wealthy, and beauty. In the 16th and 17th centuries they had also found their way into

prosperous homes.

◦ During the 18th century (around the era from which this chandelier comes from)

chandeliers were being produced by Bohemian and Venetian glassmakers. Murano

glass chandeliers would hang in important theaters and palaces. Throughout the 18th

and 19th century chandeliers became more grand and elaborate. Towards the end of

the 20th century, chandeliers were used moslty for decoration and not lighting.

Typology

◦ Luxury register- Only the wealthiest people could have chandeliers ordained with glass

and details in their homes. Not everyone had access to having this extravagant light

fixture in their home- especially when it was very elaborate, large and detailed.

Chandeliers were often seen as the presence of Christ and were tied to wealth and

elegance. It would be important to know the materials and craftsmanship that went

into the chandelier when selecting one for your home- usually the wealthiest would

have one designed specifically for the area they wanted it. The more grand the

chandelier and the more detail it contained the more important it was to the area.

◦ It is a pure form of luxury

◦ It has old features of luxury: status, class and exclusivity

Visual Codes

◦ gold: royalty and diamonds

◦ glitter: splendor

Map Goods

◦ Top, left corner: both expensive and requiring knowledge to truly appreciate.

Analysis

◦ Throughout history chandeliers meant extravagance, design\decor and tradition

◦ Values related to the product are used for light but also used for decoration.

◦ It referred to the wealthy and royalty. It revolved around a lifestyle of fancy dinner

parties in their home and often having guests. These chandeliers were used to display

wealth and their social status within their home to all that entered. The grandest

chandeliers belonged to the aristocracy.

◦ It is an externalized form of luxury even though it was in their homes. It was used to

communicate their wealth and class to others that entered their area.

◦ Chandeliers displayed glamour. They were very bold and prominent features within the

home.