Los Angeles feature - Sherman's Travel

8/7/2019 Los Angeles feature - Sherman's Travel

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AFeW yeARSAGO, there werentmany reasons to go Downtown,

unless you worked in one o theskyscrapers that orm the citys sky-line, in which case, at quitting time,youd run or the hills. Ater dark, thehomeless (sadly, gathered rom otherdistricts and dumped here), junkies,and gangs ruled the streets, making itseem like some kind o Epcot Scary-land. Over the last 10 years, however,in the wake o artists who settled inempty warehouses, the city greenlitmassive residential developmentsshiny lots no starving artist couldaordand earmarked billions odollars or the creation o parks,hotels, and a Champs-Elyses-stylecorridor. These days, the area is onits way to becoming a residential huband is already one o the countrys

richest cultural centers, with incred-ible architecture, stylish restaurants

and bars, and a vital art scene.A collection o smaller districts,

Downtown includes the bustlingenclaves o Little Tokyo and China-town, and the Art Deco theatersand art galleries o the Historic Core.Several signicant architecturalprojects kick-started the changeshere, among them the undulat-ing stainless steel sheath o FrankGehrys magnicentWalt DisneyConcert Hall (home to the LosAngeles Philharmonic) on SouthGrand Avenue, which is on its wayto replacing the Hollywood sign asthe citys landmark icon, and thesubversive modernism o Jos RaaelMoneos Cathedral o Our Lady othe Angels on West Temple Street,which sparked controversy with itsenormous budget ($5 million or

the altar alone), size, and absence oright angles.

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The art scene is centered inthe walkable areas o Gallery Row

(between South Main Street andSpring Street) and Chinatown. Iwas in SoHo in the 70s, the East Vil-lage in the 80s, San Francisco in the90s, and now here, says Bert Green,sitting in his airy storeront, BertGreen Fine Art. Known as the uno-cial mayor o Gallery Row, Greenopened one o the rst galleries inthe neighborhood, in 2004. Itsa very exciting time, Green says.There are so many cultural eventshappening every day, people donthave time to do them all. Over40 galleries now occupy the row,creating a homespun art communityunied by an unpretentious attitude(no valet parking). Its a quirky scenethat mixes street art (the Let Coast

unk grati oCrewest) with estab-lished names (the biggest Chinesestars show at Morono Kiang Galleryin the historic Bradbury Building).

Among the galleries are the un

but unsung Museum o Neon Art,which pays tribute to the gas art, and

the Comme des Garons guerillapop-up store, which sells limited-edition items. Stop by BanquetteCa or a delicious veggie paninoand Blossom Restaurant or Viet-namese shaking bee. On an alleyo Gallery Row is TheEdison, alounge in a ormer undergroundpower plant where you can sip cock-tails amid polished turbines.

From The Edison, walk a ewblocks east to Little Tokyo to see theGeen Contemporary at MOCA(an outpost o the Museum o Con-temporary Art nearby), housed in aormer police-car warehouse reno-vated by Frank Gehry. Dont leaveLittle Tokyo without eating resh

mochi(sticky rice with an ice cream

lling) at Mikawaya Sweet Shop inthe Japanese Village Plaza.

Due north a ew blocks inChinatowna our-block expanseestooned with red paper lanterns

galleries are sprinkled along thepedestrian streets o Chung KingRoad and Gin Ling Way. The grand-daddy o the scene is Peres Projects,run by Javier Peres, a gallerist bestknown or discovering rising super-star and Whitney alum Terence KohPiggybacking the art community, a

number o hipster boutiques haveopened within walking distance,including avant-garde designer spot Welcome Huntersand music- andart-book store Ooga Booga. Minglewith local artists at The Mountain,a low-key bar that was shot into thestratosphere when Brad Pitt showedup or its opening.

Back at Disney Hall you cantake a 45-minute, sel-guided walk-

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like the intriguing prawn martiniat No, in the Omni Hotel; thePeruvian-style seviche is especiallygood at Ciudad; and theWater Grillis one o the citys most-expensive-but-worth-it restaurants. For comort

ood go to Clitons Caeteria, aneighborhood institution with a trulysurreal backyard garden. Anotherold-timey avorite is the Pacifc Din-ing Car, a converted 1920s railwaycar thats always open.

For real Downtown immersion,stay at one o the neighborhoodhotels. The legendary 1923 Biltmoreis a smart splurge or its old-schoolHollywood glamour and reasonablerates. Catch high tea in the Rendez-

vous Court, which resembles a Span-ish cathedral. More casual is the Figueroa Hotel, which has hostedtravelers and stars alike since 1925.Ask or a room away rom the heavilytracked streets. Still trendy, The

Standard, Downtown LA is popularwith photographers, musicians andmodels, and those lucky enough toprocure one o their inventive rooms.Much ado has been made o its modrootop lounge, but go during theday or on a weeknight to avoid thecrowds. As an alternative, check outthe little-known Takami Sushi &Robata Restaurant,in a penthousewith a large patio atop an ocebuilding on Wilshire Boulevard.

eVeRSiNCe TOBACCOmOGuLAbbot Kinney won dibs in 1891 onthis beachront plot just south oSanta Monica (in a coin toss, noless), iconoclasts and eccentrics haveound a sae haven here. Kinneysidea to turn the marshy parcel intoa resort town inspired by Venice,Italywith canals, Venetian-stylebuildings, and amusement piers withdancers, singers, and magicianswas denitely a highly personalvision. Although res eventually rav-aged the town in 1920 and the pierswere dismantled in the 1940s, thestreet perormers stuck around. That

tradition continues today on theboardwalk, where you can gawk atthe real-lie circus o disco-dancingRollerbladers, Speedo-sporting body-builders, bongo-banging reaks, scary

mimes, and militant vegans.But personal expression in

this perectly walkable area isntlimited to the beach. The plethora oindependently owned design shops,clothing boutiques, and art galleriesthat have sprung up in recent yearson the aptly named Abbot KinneyBoulevard orm the center o thisareas recent upscale makeover. Myshop wouldnt survive anywhere elsein LA, says Michael Deyermond,co-owner oEquator Books on Ab-bot Kinney, a store that carries out-o-print, rst edition, and rare books.Here, businesses succeed because

they are products o the owners sin-gular vision; ones that arent, ail.

The Abbot Kinney district runsor about 1.5 miles between MainStreet and Washington Boulevard.

you have your prescription handy.For brunch, try the 3 Square Ca +Bakery or delicious German applepancakes, orAxe (pronounced ah-shay), or organic eats like grilled gswith goat cheese.

Youd be hard-pressed to nd abetter deal than the three-course,$18 prix-xe lunch at Joes Restau-rant. Even ater 18 years in business,its still a task to get a table at ChayaVenice, where everyone rom moviemoguls to artists go or the sur andtur. Beechwood is a gorgeous placethat serves dressed-up comort ood.A bit o the beaten track is Piccolo

Ristorante , a seriously great northernItalian spot.

Despite all its attractions, Veniceis sorely lacking in hotels. Luckily,Santa Monica is only a ew minutes

VeniceA fAmousLy eccentric encLAve stAys trueto its roots whiLe gAining An uPscALe edge.

You wont be able to leaveA+Rwithout something; they carry itemsnot ound anywhere else, such ascutouts by German woodworkerSarah Finn. The Japanese shop Tor-toise imports one-o-a-kind vintage

items, kitchenware, and ceramics, allwith a simple, modern design. Thehusband-and-wie team who ownit just opened a second location orlarger urniture a ew doors down.

Altered Space Gallery sellsunique urniture (some by mastercratsman Richard Patterson), jew-elry, and nonunctional art. Furni-ture designer Elizabeth Paige Smithjust opened a garden gallery-atelierthat showcases her own MOCAworthy designs and works o ellowlocal artist riends. This summer,longtime Venetian Sandro Gebert

launched the imposing contempo-rary art space Gebert Gallery, whichseems out o place next to the morehomespun spots but is worth a look.

Take a break rom shopping witha walk along the remaining canals,

now lined with vintage bungalowsand multimillion-dollar concepthomes. Park near Venice Boulevardand Pacic Avenue and meanderthrough this lovely, hidden universe.

Back on the main drag, youllnd newer watering holes, like thelow-key wine and beer lounge TheOtheroom , and old haunts, likeart-lled Hals, both places whereshopkeepers and gallerists go aterwork. Stop at Jin Patisserie or exqui-site desserts and Asian teas, and TheFarmacy or herb-enhanced organicgelato and medical marijuanai

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FiVe yeARSAGO, I couldnt get asingle investor to even look at thelocation here, says che Ben Ford ohis popular gastropub Fords FillingStation on Culver Boulevard. Thereaction was: I will invest anywherebutCulver City. Culver Cityequidistant rom Venice and WestHollywoodused to be a drearyplace known as Wheel Alley (whereyou got your tires changed). Now itsbeen dubbed a nascent Chelsea.

The dramatic change startedin 2003, when galleries decampedrom the high rents o the west sideto transorm abandoned warehouses,chop shops, and upholstery storesinto gleaming cement and glass

cubes. Since then, 40-plus galler-ies, all o which, luckily, are withinwalking distance o each other, havesettled in. Rounding out the transor-mation are new bars and restaurants,high-end design stores, and theatersand music venues. But beore itspresent incarnation, and beore itwas a wasteland, Culver City wasknown as the ritzy Heart o Screen-land because classics like Gone withthe Wind and Citizen Kane werelmed on studio lots here.

Today, Culver Citys 5 squaremiles contain two main clusters ogalleries. The biggest concentrationis just o the Santa Monica Freeway,on South La Cienega Boulevard,Washington Boulevard, and Fairax

Avenue. Though developing atabout the same time as DowntownsGallery Row, the art communityhere enjoys substantial backing rominvestors and local universities.

Dont miss Blum & Poe, the an-chor o the art colony, whose rostero renowned artists includes TakashiMurakami and buzzed-about sculp-tor Matt Johnson. Its move romSanta Monica in 2003 paved the wayor other gallerists. Along La Cien-ega are other notable early settlers,such asAnna Helwing Gallery,Lizabeth Oliveria, and the nonprotLAXART. Culvers newest addi-tion is Royal/T on Washington, aconceptual gallery-boutique-lecturespace-Japanese ca. Regroup witha cucumber martini on the patio othe Mandrake.

On the design side, check outGregg Fleishmans whimsical wood-

en chairs at his Main Street show-room; dealer Michele SommerlathsGalerie Sommerlath, a modernistfea market on Venice, and her just-opened Le Depot, a warehouse withmid-century treasures, at La BreaAvenue and Jeerson Boulevard; andEmpiric on Washington, wheremechanical engineer MichaelTowey and artist Annie Crownin-shield sell a ascinating collectiono vintage science-laboratory partsremade into urnishings.

Betting the citys meteoric rise,it eels as though new restaurantsare opening (and perhaps closing)every week. Within the Museumo Design Art and Architecture (aneon-decorated structure housing

architects oces and the MODAAgallery) is global cuisine, oodieavoriteWilson. In a spiy diningroom, Culver Citys royaltyarchitects and paintersindulge

Culver CityAn industriAL ghost town comes ALivewith new Art And foodie drAws.

Making it happen

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PnsHot Dogs 709n. La BeaAe.; $3; 323/931-4223,piklly.

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in tagliatelle with resh trufes.Wilsons che-owner is MichaelWilson, son o the late Beach BoyDennis Wilson, who joins HarrisonFords son, Ben, as one o the scionso amous men opening Culver City

eateries lately. Down the street, inthe historic Helms Bakery complex,is Beacon, an elegant Asian usionbistro known or its chargrilledhanger steak with wasabi relish.For a delicious, ancied take onthe burger, cross Helms Street toFathers Ofce, a spin-o o thepopular Santa Monica eatery.

Across rom Sony Studios on

Washington is the Kirk DouglasTheatre, where high-prole shows,like the latest David Mamet play, arestaged. Inside the Ivy Substation,a renovated 1907 railroad station-cum-playhouse, Tim Robbinss The

Actors Gang is the resident com-pany. And over at the cozy JazzBakery in the Helms Bakery build-ing, Woody Allen has been known topop in or a clarinet jam.

A ew blocks away is the cen-trally located Culver Hotel, a newlyrestored landmark (it rst opened in1924) thats a genteel throwback tothe glory days o Screenland.

eVeNTHe CASuAL OBSeRVeRwouldnt mistake the skyscrapers oDowntown or the beach bungalowso Venice. On the other hand, someareas seem to justiy LAs reputationas a sprawl o burger joints and stripmalls, with the odd Art Deco fourishand space-age sign thrown in. Mid-City West (south o West Hollywoodand east o Beverly Hills) is one othese places, but dont let the actthat it doesnt eel like a neighbor-hood prevent you rom exploring theincredible trove o culture hererom Pleistocene to contemporaryand everything in between.

Basking in the company o theareas star attraction and center o

gravitytheLos Angeles CountyMuseum o Art (LACMA)aresome o the citys top art galleries,along with excellent niche muse-ums, on a stretch o Wilshire dubbed

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There are several worthwhilemuseums on the blocks on eitherside o LACMA, known as MuseumRow (including Petersen Automo-tive Museum, which celebratesSoCals love aair with the car).Beore setting out, grab some lunchat a ood stand in the nearbyFarmers Market, where you can

sample delicious international spe-cialties (rom a mole chicken burritoat Lotera Grill to French bistro areat Monsieur Marcel). Farther east,in Koreatown, is a hidden treasurein an indoor mall: the Beverly HotSprings. Unwind with a soak or anas-painul-as-you-want massage.

Along Museum Row are blue-chip galleries like theAce Gallery ,which has shown Richard Serra andthe paintings and photographs o

actor Dennis Hopper since openingin the 1960s. Many o the art spacesare hidden in large oce buildings,such as 6150 Wilshire, home to anumber o well-regarded galleries(includingACME). Up La Breatoward Beverly, another cluster ogalleries has gathered, including anarea pioneer, Jack Rutberg.

For a dierent kind o galleryexperience, drop into the home-design stores along Beverly, whereit seems high-end artul living is anatural extension o the art scene.Zelen Home is known or its uniqueaccessories; go to Modernica orcustomizable Eames-style chairs;Emmerson Troop and its neighborOrange have impeccable vintageurniture; Shelter concentrateson mid-century-style basics; and

Twentieth is reminiscent o the

Manhattan design mecca Moss(which has just opened a smallerversion on a hip stretch o Melrose)The Largo at the Coronet theatercaters to hipsters o all ages withregular perormances by acclaimedlocal musicians including Jon BrionAimee Mann, and Fiona Apple.

Hopeully youve made res-ervations at one o the citys mostcelebrated dining rooms, Campa-nile. The Italian eatery is helmedby Spago alumnus Mark Peel andoccupies Charlie Chaplins ormeroce. Attached to the restaurant isLa Brea Bakery, stocked with artisa-nal cheeses and resh-baked loaves.Round the corner onto Beverlysburgeoning restaurant row, and

youll nd modern chop house Jar,which serves upscale home cookinglike crab deviled eggs in cool 1950soce decor. Che Neal Fraser

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Los Angeles feature - Sherman's Travel

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Transcript of Los Angeles feature - Sherman's Travel