Damian Harper, MaSovaida Morgan, Thomas O’Malley, Phillip Tang, Rob Whyte

Korea

#_

North Koreap309

Gangwon-dop118

Jeju-dop237

Jeollanam-dop212

Busan &Gyeongsangnam-do

p180

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Around Seoulp93

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Welcome to Korea . . . . . . 4

Korea Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Korea’s Top 13 . . . . . . . . . . .8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16

First Time Korea . . . . . . . .18

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Month by Month . . . . . . . 23

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 29

Regions at a Glance . . . . 34

SEOUL . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 60Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 77Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 85Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Getting There & Away . . . . 91Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . 92

AROUND SEOUL . . . . 93Gyeonggi-do . . . . . . . . . . 96DMZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Suwon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Everland Resort . . . . . . . . 104Donggureung . . . . . . . . . . 105Namhansanseong Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 105Icheon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Seoul Grand Park . . . . . . . 106Incheon Metropolitan City . . . . . 107Incheon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Muuido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Deokjeokdo . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Ganghwado . . . . . . . . . . . . 115

GANGWON-DO . . . . .118Chuncheon . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Seoraksan National Park . . 123Sokcho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Cheorwon . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Naksan Provincial Park . . 131Odaesan National Park . . 132Gangneung . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Jeongdongjin . . . . . . . . . . 138

Samcheok . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Wonju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Pyeongchang . . . . . . . . . . 142Chiaksan National Park . . 144

GYEONGSANGBUK- DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Daegu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Haein-sa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Gimcheon & Jikji-sa . . . . . 156Gyeongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Around Gyeongju . . . . . . . 167Pohang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Ulleungdo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Andong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173Hahoe Folk Village . . . . . . 176Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 177Juwangsan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 178

BUSAN & GYEONGSANGNAM- DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Busan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Gajisan Provincial Park . . .200Geojedo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Tongyeong . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Jinju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Namhaedo . . . . . . . . . . . . .206Jirisan National Park . . . .208

JEOLLANAM-DO . . . 212Gwangju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Damyang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Gurye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Suncheon . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Jogyesan Provincial Park . . 221Yeosu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Boseong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Haenam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

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CHANGNG OF THE GUARD, DEOKSUGUNG (P49), SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA

Contents

Korea Today . . . . . . . . . . 336

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339

The Korean People . . . . 358

In the Korean Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362

Architecture & the Arts . . . . . . . . . . . 373

The Natural Environment . . . . . . . . . 379

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 386

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 395

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 400

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 414

Wando . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230Mokpo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Jindo Island . . . . . . . . . . . . 235Dadohae Haesang (Marine Archipelago) National Park . . . . . . . . . . 235

JEJU-DO . . . . . . . . . 237Jeju-si . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Eastern Jeju-do . . . . . . . 247Woljeong Beach . . . . . . . . 251Hado-ri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Seongsan-ri & Sinyang-ri . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Pyoseon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Seongeup Folk Village . . . 256Hallasan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 257Southern Jeju-do . . . . . 259Seogwipo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259Sagye-ri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262Western Jeju-do . . . . . . 264Inland Region . . . . . . . . . .264Hallim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265

JEOLLABUK-DO . . . 267Jeonju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269Around Jeonju . . . . . . . . . . 273Naejangsan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 273Muju & Deogyusan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 274Gochang & Around . . . . . . 276Byeonsan-bando National Park . . . . . . . . . . 277Gunsan & Seonyudo . . . . 279

CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280Daejeon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Gyeryongsan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 285

Geumsan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Gongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Buyeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290Boryeong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292Sapsido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294Taeanhaean National Marine Park . . . . . . . . . . . . 295

CHUNGCHEONGBUK-DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Cheongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298Songnisan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 301Chungju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .302Chungju-ho . . . . . . . . . . . .303Suanbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303Woraksan National Park . . . . . . . . . .304Danyang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305Sobaeksan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 307

NORTH KOREA . . . . 309Pyongyang . . . . . . . . . . . .311Kaesong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318Nampo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319Sinchon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319Panmunjom & the DMZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319Wonsan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320Hamhung . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320Myohyangsan . . . . . . . . . . 321Kumgang Region . . . . . . . 322Paekdusan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Chilbosan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Chongjin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Rajin-Sonbong . . . . . . . . . 323Understand North Korea . . . . . . . . . . 324Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 331

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURES

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 29

The Korean People . . . . 358

In the Korean Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362

Architecture & the Arts . . . . . . . . . . . 373

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Itineraries

JAPAN

NORTHKOREA

CHINASeoul

ChuncheonSokcho

SeoraksanNational Park

Gangneung

SamcheokHwanseongul

Haesindang Park

Hahoe FolkVillage

GyeongjuSeokguram

Busan

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South Korea’s Highlights

Enjoy the best of Korea on this trip lassoing in the dynamic capital Seoul, the bustling southern port of Busan, lost-in-time country towns and offbeat sights before finishing on the beautiful island of Jeju-do.

Spend four or five days exploring Seoul, including a day trip north to the DMZ. Next head east to Chuncheon, to cycle alongside Uiam Lake and sample the town’s famous chicken dish, dakgalbi.

Dine on fresh seafood in Sokcho, then hike around the sublime peaks and waterfalls of Seoraksan National Park. Follow the coast south to Gangneung to discover well-preserved Joseon-era buildings before continuing to Samcheok to set foot in the huge Hwanseongul cave, as well as Haesindang Park, packed with phallic sculptures. Hunt down the pagodas, temples and sights in and around Andong before delving into Korea’s thatched past at serene Hahoe Folk Village. Continue to Gyeongju, ancient capital of the Silla kingdom, where the town’s royal tombs, excellent museum and the World Heritage–listed grotto at Seokguram will need several days.

Busan, with its fish market, beaches and urban buzz, is worth a few days. From here fly to Jeju-do, where amazing volcanic scenery accompanies leisurely hikes.

2 WEEKS

25©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

This cross-country route is ideal to experience the more rustic and natural side of South Korea, with stops on ruggedly beautiful islands and hikes along leafy mountain trails.

From Incheon International Airport it’s a quick hop to the idyllic island of Muuido, from where you can walk to So-Muuido or relax on lovely beaches. Enjoy Chinese food in the historic Chinatown of Incheon, then stroll around the Open Port area. Take a direct bus to Suwon, where you can stride around the ramparts of the meticulously recon-structed fortress wall, explore the palace and tuck into the town’s famous galbi (beef ribs).

Gongju and Buyeo, the ancient capitals of the Baekje kingdom, are next: hillside tombs, a fortress and a museum will give you insights into Korea’s oldest dynasty. After enjoying the mud skincare spa of Daecheon Beach, sail to the serene island of Sapsi-do for the night, before returning to Daecheon and continuing north by bus to Anmy-eondo, the largest island in the Taeanhaean National Marine Park. Work on your tan at either Khotji Beach or Mallipo Beach, or hike some of the trails in the park.

Travel inland to Daejeon to soak at Yuseong Hot Springs. Continue to Cheongju, learn about the world’s oldest printed book then move on to Songnisan National Park, covering central Korea’s finest scenic area and a temple that is home to a rare and handsome five-storey wooden pagoda. Chungju is the gateway to lovely Worak-san National Park and two-hour scenic ferry trips across Chungju-ho towards sleepy Danyang, a restaurant-rich small town with a lovely waterside perch and hilly back-drop. Explore the limestone caves at nearby Gosu Donggul and the stately temple complex of Guin-sa within Sobaeksan National Park.

Use Andong as a base for exploring the surrounding area packed with attractive river and lakeside villages – it’s also famous for its soju (Korean-style vodka). It’s only a couple of hours by bus from here to Pohang. From Pohang visit Bogyeong-sa temple in a gorgeous valley with 12 waterfalls, then board the ferry to Ulleungdo, a sparsely inhabited, volcanic island.

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#–

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Muuido &So-Muuido

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This 850km route around Korea’s least industrialised region offers the opportunity to stop by rural islands, dine in seafood restaurants and dig deep within artistic traditions.

Jeonju has a fascinating village crammed with traditional hanok (wooden homes) and buildings. It’s also the birthplace of the classic rice dish bibimbap and a place to enjoy the milky rice wine makgeolli. Visit the 6th-century Geumsan-sa temple in Moaksan Provincial Park and don’t miss Maisan Provincial Park, where you can hike between ‘horse ear’ mountains and encounter a garden of stone pinnacles piled up by a Buddhist mystic at Tap-sa. Alternatively, go hiking or skiing in beautiful Deogyusan National Park.

The industrial port city of Gunsan boasts Korea’s largest collection of Japanese- colonial-period buildings. From here hop on a ferry to the relaxing island of Seonyudo, situated amid 60 mostly uninhabited small islands. When the tide is in and the sun is out, the views are unbelievably beautiful. Bronze and Iron Age tombs dot the lush green hills around the small village of Gochang, where you can also explore the 15th-century, ivy-covered Moyang Fortress.

Further south, Gwangju is home to several intriguing historical sites, museums and a major arts complex. Make a day trip to Damyang to stroll the sandy trails through its Juknokwon bamboo grove. Move on to the port of Mokpo to board boats to the remote havens of Heuksando and Hongdo in the Dadohae Haesang National Park. Admire Korea’s centuries-old tradition of pottery at Gangjin and taste food and drinks made from healthy green tea at the beautiful Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation in Boseong.

Go bird-spotting in the Ramsar-listed wetlands of Suncheon-man then continue to Yeosu, site of Expo 2012, and head to the small bamboo- and camellia-tree-clad island of Odongdo to wander its paths. For a final island experience, take in terraced rice paddies and misty temples on picturesque Namhaedo. The trail finishes at Korea’s second-largest city, Busan.

3 WEEKS

Seonyudo

Mokpo

Gwangju

Damyang

MoaksanProvincial Park

Yeosu

Gochang;Moyang Fortress

Gunsan

Jeonju

Suncheon-man

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This two-centre itinerary is well suited to parents travelling with kids.

Seoul’s many parks, interactive museums and, in summer, outdoor swim-ming pools are ideal for family fun. Older kids will most likely be happy cruising the capital’s vast shopping malls and depart-ment stores looking for souvenirs of Korea’s pervasive pop culture.

Day trips include the beaches of the West Sea Islands, such as Deokjeokdo; Korea’s biggest amusement park, Everland; and the Korean Folk Village. The latter two can just as easily be visited from Suwon, where it’s fun to walk around the walls of an 18th- century fortress. North of Seoul, gain closer proximity to North Korea with a trip to the DMZ.

Hop on a flight to Jeju-do, blessed with a fascinating volcanic landscape and dozens of sandy beaches. Amusement and water parks, cycle and skate hire and a whole raft of adventure activities, from quad biking to scuba diving, are possible on this fun-packed island with plenty of world-class resorts.

2 WEEKS Seoul & Jeju Jaunt

Some of South Korea’s top temples feature on this route linking its two main cities.

In Seoul attend a Templestay program at Jogye-sa or Bongeun-sa.

Danyang is the transit point for Sobaeksan National Park, where you’ll find modern Guin-sa, headquarters of the Cheontae order.

Daegu (home to some tremendous her-itage architecture, including an early-19th-century cathedral) is the base for trips to sublimely situated Haein-sa, and houses a World Heritage–listed library of more than 80,000 14th-century woodblocks.

From Jinan, you can reach Gongju, one-time capital of Korea’s Baekje dynasty, to visit remote Magok-sa, with a hall of 1000 pintsized disciples, each one slightly different. From Jinan you can also go to Gwangju, to reach Unju-sa, with its fine collection of stone pagodas and unusual twin and reclining Buddhas.

Finish just outside of Busan at Tongdo- sa, home to an excellent Buddhist art museum containing 30,000 artefacts.

2 WEEKS

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Anemieke Drenth, Jennifer Flanagan, Ignacio Gabaldon, John Hutchings, Pierre Japhet, Michelle Josselyn, Mirna Knight, Miroslav Kotaska, Seohyun Lee, Ettore Mazza, Chay Mckenzie, Judson Quicksall, Sofia Riga, Eve Rosenhaft, Federico Saez, Ronald Steenstra, Maciej Swietlik, Tekke Terpstra, Ray VarnBuhler, Mark Vosmek, Lucy Whalley, John Williams, Danielle Wolbers, Andrew Youl, Ken Zumstein

WRITERS’ THANKSDamian HarperHuge roll call of thanks for everyone who helped me: Lylah Lim, Olivia Buckley, Ju Young Jung, Kang Hui Jeong, Jeon Hyun Yang, Sean Hwang, Lee Jeong Uk, An Hey Jeong, Kim Hye-yong, Son Eun Young, Go Jihye, Kim Eunjung, Lee Hyun Soon, Yang Sa Hyun, Cho Young-chae, Lee Seung Hyun, Kim Jae Woo, Kim Jun-Woo, Kang Dong-hyo, Professor Rosa, Kyeong Min Kim, Elizabeth Lee, Kim In-Seon, Kim Seo Hyeon, Daniel Lee, Jati, Hyo-Jun Yoo, Choi Sung, Rosalinda F Arroyo, Kim Jin Yong, Clint Kwon, Richard Steward, Nervin Alban, Shingo Nagata, 김진겸, Jordan Perrigo, Jessica

Butler, Bill Moran, Lee Hyo Jeong, Ji Hye Jeong, Spencer Fox, Brother Lee and KS Kim. Thanks, as always to Daisy, Tim and Emma, plus the warmest of thanks to the lovely Korean people who made my journey the happiest of all.

MaSovaida MorganMany thanks to everyone who shared their insights and resources before, during and after this eye-opening adventure, especially: Holley LeFever, Janna Gibson, Sangyeob Han, Youngbok Jang, Marike Kotze, Taewoo, Kate and Marianna; Lucia and Mr and Mrs Kim; Mrs Park and Mr Ryu; and Mish, Tracy and Dionne. Thanks also to my co-authors, and to my editor Megan Eaves for the opportunity and unwaver-ing encouragement. Love and gratitude to Ny, Ty and Haj, always.

Thomas O’MalleyThanks to my esteemed co-writers and editors, to Yoon (ique Universe), to Mr & Mrs Kim for their hospitality and gourmet breakfasts, Leo, Paris Baguette’s coffee, all the beers at Magpie Brewing, and most of all, to Ophelia.

Phillip TangA huge thanks to Octavio Nájera for making Seoul dance and sing, ganando como siempre. Mariah Lee and friends for workshopping Seoul tips and the dakgalbi city escape. Thanks to

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

407BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Félix Barría and Jules Thivent for makgeolli, galbi and blossom flavoured chips, and Da Sel Lee and Jenny for Korean hospitality. Thank you to Megan Eaves and the co-writers for being patient and great virtual workmates. Thank you Vek Lewis, Fiona Ross and Francis-co Vargas for additional virtual support.

Rob WhyteA hearty thanks to the folks working in the tourist information offices. They’re resource-ful and incredibly patient. Thanks to Kim Tae-ho and Kim Seoung-ok for their insider knowledge about destinations and local food. On the road, thanks to the many people who

took the time to open their Naver maps app and point me in the right direction. In Buyeo, I’m glad I had a chance to talk local history with Yun Yun-su, a knowledgeable tour guide.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Changdeokgung, Seoul, South Korea. Ducoin-ana / Onlyworld / 4Corners ©

THIS BOOKThis 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Korea book was curated by Megan Eaves, and researched and written by Damian Harper, MaSovaida Morgan, Thomas O’Malley, Phillip Tang and Rob Whyte. The previous edition was written by Megan Eaves, Trent Holden, Rebecca Milner, Simon Richmond, Phillip Tang and

Rob Whyte. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Megan EavesSenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanProduct Editor Amanda WIlliamsonSenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Meri BlazevskiAssisting Editors Pete Cruttenden, Andrea Dobbin,

Samantha Forge, Jennifer Hattam, Ali Lemer, Charlotte Orr, Jaeyoon Shin, Simon WilliamsonCartographer Julie DodkinsAssisting Book Designer Virginia MorenoCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jennifer Carey, Grace Dobell, James Hardy, Andi Jones, Victoria Smith, Sam Wheeler

408

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 386accommodation 18, 386-9,

see also individual locations

language 400air travel 395-9alcohol 83, 367r

glossary 372language 401-3

amusement parksAquaworld 306Caribbean Bay 104Children’s Grand Park 56Everland 104Jeju Glass Castle 264Lotte World 57Munsu Waterpark (North

Korea) 316Ocean Resort Water

Park 223Seoul Land 107Tapdong 242

Andong 173-6. 174animals 379-80, see also

individual animalsarchaeological sites

Baekje Royal Tombs 291Banwol-seong 160-1Ganghwa Dolmen Park 116Gochang Dolmen Site

276-7Hwangnyong-sa Site 161-2Tomb of King Muryeong

287-8archery 102, 241architecture 20-1, 377-8, see

also historic buildings, notable buildings

area codes 17, 392-3around Seoul, see

Gyeonggi-do, Incheonarts 330-1, 373-8‘axis of evil’ 328

Bballooning 102bargaining 19baseball 218, 360basketball 360bathrooms 333, 393beaches

Anmok 135-6Bamseom 295Batjireum 114Byeonsan 278Daecheon 293Gwangan 185Gyeokpo 278Gyeongpo 134-5Haeundae 183, 12Hakdong Mongdol 201Hanagae 112Hongjodangoe Haebin 253Iho Tewoo 243Ilchul-bong 253Jinneomeo 294Maengbang 140Mallipo 296Myeongsasim-ni 230Naksan 131Samcheok 141Samyang 242Sangju 207Seongsan 253Seopori 114Silmi 112Woljeong 251

bears 384bicycle travel, see cyclingbirdwatching 33, 221, 382birth rates 337-8boat travel 111, 395-9, 396books 345, 377border, see Demilitarized

ZoneBoryeong 292-4Boryeong Mud Festival 10,

24, 293, 10Boseong 225-6Buddhism 358

budget 16-17, 310, 387, 389, 390, 399

Bukhansan National Park 99Bulguk-sa 12, 162, 13bus travel 396, 397-8Busan 12, 35, 180-1, 182-99,

181, 184-5, 189, 190, 192, 196, 12, 21

accommodation 180, 188-90

activities 187climate 180drinking & nightlife 194-5entertainment 195-6festivals & events 188food 180, 190-4highlights 181 history 181-2shopping 196-7sights 182tourist information 197tours 188travel seasons 180travel to/from 198travel within 199

Busan International Film Festival 24, 188

bushwalking, see hikingBuyeo 290-2, 290Byeonsan-bando National

Park 277-9, 278

Ccable cars

Daedunsan Provincial Park 272

Duryunsan Provincial Park 226

Geumgang Park 186-7Gwongeum-seong 126Hallyeosudo 202Mineral Spring Park 170N Seoul Tower &

Namsan 49Naejangsan National

Park 273-4Palgongsan 156Songdo Marine 187

canoeing 33car travel 397

language 404cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscell phones 16, 332-3, 392-3ceramics 227Changpyeong Slow City 219Cheongju 298-301, 300Cheongnamdae 299Cheongnyangsan Provincial

Park 177-8Cheorwon 130-1Chiaksan National Park

144-5, 145Chilbosan (North Korea) 323children, travel with 56,

331, 389Chongjin (North Korea) 323Christianity 359Chuncheon 120-3, 121Chungcheongbuk-do 36,

297-308, 298accommodation 297climate 297food 297highlights 298 travel seasons 297

Chungcheongnam-do 36, 280-96, 281

accommodation 280climate 280food 280highlights 281history 281travel seasons 280

Chungju 302-3churches & cathedrals

Daegu Jeil Church 148Jeondong Catholic

Church 269Our Lady of Lourdes

Cathedral 148cinema 183, 336, 338, 376-7climate 16, see also

individual regionsclimbing, see rock climbingcomfort women 349

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

409IN

DEX C

-G Confucianism 358, 361consulates, see embassiescovered wagons 207cultural centres

Baekje Cultural Land 291Changpyeong Slow City

219-20Cheongpung Cultural

Heritage Complex 303Daegu Hyanggyo

Confucian School 148Dongdaemun Design

Plaza & Park 56-7, 69Gamcheon Culture

Village 182Gatbawi Culture District

231Gyeongju Folk Handicraft

Village 162Haenggung-dong Mural

Village 102Icheon Ceramic Village

105-6Ihwa Mural Village 54Jeju Folk Village 255Jeonju Korean Paper

Institute 271Ji-dong Mural Village 102Korean Folk Village 101Naganeup-seong Folk

Village 220-1Namsangol Hanok

Village 51Oil Tank Culture Park 54Seongeup Folk Village

256-9Seoul Global Cultural

Center 59Songwol-dong Fairy Tale

Village 110Yangdong Folk Village

167culture 328-31, 358-61currency 16, 332customs regulations

331, 389cycling 30, 396, 31

Incheon 114language 404Seoul 65Uiam-ho Cycle Path 122

DDadohae Haesang (Marine

Archipelago) National Park 235-6

Daedunsan Provincial Park 272

Daegu 148-55, 150-1, 153Daehan Dawon Tea

Plantation 226, 228-9

Daejeon 282-5, 284Damyang 219-20dangers, see safetyDanyang 305-7, 306Demilitarized Zone 15,

96-8, 130. 15Cheorwon 130history 352-3Panmunjom (North

Korea) 319-20Second Tunnel 130

Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, see North Korea

demographics 329-30, 337-8

Deogyusan National Park 274-5, 276, 31

Deokjeokdo 114-15discount cards 389diving 33, 260DMZ, see Demilitarized

ZoneDodong-ri 169-70, 172Donggureung 105drinking, see individual

locationsdrinks 83, 366-72

glossary 372language 401-3

driving, see car traveldriving licences 397DVDs 386

Eeating, see foodeducation 359-61electricity 389embassies 332, 389-90emergencies 17

language 403environment 331, 379-84etiquette 19

drinking 369food 369

Everland Resort 104-5exchange rates 17

Fferries 111, 203festivals & events 23-4

Andong Folk Festival 175Andong Mask Dance

Festival 174-5Azalea Festival 116Baekje Cultural Festival

288Boryeong Mud Festival

10, 24, 293, 10

Busan International Film Festival 24, 188

Busan International Fireworks Festival 188

Buyeo SeoDong Lotus Festival 292

Chuncheon International Mime Festival 122

Dano Festival 135Gwangju Biennale

24, 215Gwangju Kimchi Festival

215Gyeonggi International

Ceramic Biennale 106Icheon Ceramic Festival

106Jarasum International

Jazz Festival 96Jeju Olle Walking Festival

250Jeonju International Film

Festival 271Jeonju Sori Festival 271Jikji Festival 300Jongmyo Daeje 23, 60Lotus Lantern Festival

23, 60Namdo Food Festival 221Nam-gang Lantern

Festival 204Pentaport Rock

Festival 110Royal Azalea Festival 306Samcheok Maengbang

Canola Flower Festival 141

Seoul Fringe Festival 60Seoul International

Fireworks Festival 60Taebaeksan Snow

Festival 139Valley Rock Music & Arts

Festival 96World Martial Arts

Festival 24, 302Yeongdeungpo Yeouido

Spring Flower Festival 23, 60

films 183, 336, 338, 376-7food 19, 20, 362-72, 390

banchan 364barbecue 362-3, 368bibimbap 362Busan specialities 193desserts 366Gwangju specialities 218hoe 193, 365Jeju-do specialities 239jeongsik 364kimchi 365-6, 2

language 401-3regional

specialities 363restaurants 362-6seafood 364street food 367vegan 366vegetarian 366

football 360fortresses

Busosan-seong 290-1Gapgot Dondae 116Geumjeong 187Gongsan-seong 288Gwongeum-seong 126Hwaseong 10, 99-101, 10Jinju 204Moyang 276Namhansanseong 105Sangdang San-seong

299-300fortune-telling 358

GGajisan Provincial Park 200galleries, see museums &

galleriesGanghwado 115-17Gangjin 227Gangneung 134-8, 136Gangwon-do 32, 34,

118-45, 119accommodation 118climate 118food 118highlights 119history 119-20travel seasons 118

gardens, see parks & gardens

gay travellers 391geography 379Geoje-do 200-2Geumsan 287Gimcheon 156-8Gochang 276-7golf 33Gongju 287-90, 289Gunsan 279Gwangju 213-19, 216Gwangju Biennale 24, 215Gyeonggi-do 96-107, 94-5

accommodation 93climate 93food 93highlights 94-5travel seasons 93

Gyeongju 158-67, 159, 160-1

410

IND

EX G-L

Gyeongsangbuk-do 35, 146-79, 147

accommodation 146climate 146food 146highlights 147history 147-8travel seasons 146

Gyeongsangnam-do 35, 180-2, 181

accommodation 180climate 180food 180highlights 181history 181-2travel seasons 180

Gyeryongsan National Park 285-7, 286

HHado-ri 251-2Haein-sa 155-6Haenam 226-7haenyeo 249Hallasan National Park

257-9, 257, 248, 249, 382

Hallim 265-6Hamhung (North Korea)

320-1hangeul 19, 341, 377hanok 11, 44, 378, 387

Andong Folk Village 173Bukchon Hanok Village

44, 44Hahoe Folk Village 14,

176-77, 14Jeju Folk Village 255-6Jeonju Hanok Maeul

269, 11Naganeup-seong Folk

Village 220-21Seongeup Folk Village 256 Yangdong Folk Village 167

health 390hiking 29-30

Bijo-bong 114Bukaksan 59Bukchon 50Danyang 305Deogyusan National

Park 275Ganghwado 116Gaya-san 155

Hallasan National Park 257-9

Inwangsan 59Jeju Olle Trail 11, 250, 11Jirisan Hiking Trails 209Naejangsan National

Park 273-4Namsan 58, 58Sapsido 294Saryeoni Forest 241Seongin-bong 171Sillyeong Su 171Wooden Walkway 174Yongmeori Coast 263

historic buildings, see also notable buildings

Former Labor Party Headquarters 130

Gangneung Seongyojang 135

Goseong Unification Observatory Building 128

Gyeongpodae Pavilion 135Jeongnimsaji 291Jeonju Hyanggyo 269-70Jinnamgwan 223Ojukheon 134Omok-dae 269

historic sitesDongnakdang 167Jangsan Seowon 168Jeju Mokgwana 241Naganeup-seong Folk

Village 220-1Oksan Seowon 167-8Turtle Ship Replicas 202

history 339-57Demilitarized Zone 352-3Donghak Rebellion 346economic recovery 353first Koreans 339Goryeo dynasty 342-3hangeul 341Japanese occupation

325-6, 346-51Joseon dynasty 343-6Korean War 326, 351-3May 18 Democratic

Uprising 354North Korea 325-8partition 325-6, 351postwar recovery 353-7Sunshine Policy 355three kingdoms 339-42WWII 349-51

hitching 397holidays 392horse racing 85

Iice skating 32, 57, 59Icheon 105-6Incheon 107-12, 108

accommodation 110drinking & nightlife 111food 110-11sights 107-10tours 110

insurance 390internet access 332, 390-1internet resources 17, 338,

366, 392islands, see also individual

islandsAnmyeondo 295-6Bijindo 202Biyangdo 265Gapado 266Geojedo 200-2Heuksando 236Hongdo 235-6, 228Jeju-do 237-66Jindo 235Marado 266Muuido 112Namhaedo 206-8Namiseom 120Odongdo 223Oedo Botania 201Phoenix Island 252Saeseom 259Saryangdo 202Seonyudo 279Somaemuldo 202So-Muuido 112Taean-gun 296Udo 253Ulleungdo 169-73Wando 230Yeonhwado 202

itineraries 25-8, 25, 26, 27, 28

Seoul 43, 50, 58, 65, 50, 58, 65

Jjaebeol 353Jeju Olle Trail 11, 250, 11Jeju-do 35, 237-66, 238,

240-1, 11accommodation 237climate 237environmental issues 381food 237highlights 238history 238travel seasons 237

Jeju-si 239-47, 244Jeollabuk-do 32, 36,

267-79, 268accommodation 267climate 267food 267highlights 268travel seasons 267

Jeollanam-do 35, 212-36, 213

accommodation 212climate 212food 212highlights 213history 213travel seasons 212

Jeongdongjin 138-40Jeonju 269-73, 270, 11Jikji 299, 342Jikji-sa 156Jindo Island 235Jinju 204-6, 205Jirisan National Park

208-11, 210Jogyesan Provincial Park

221-2, 222Joint Security Area 97Jongmyo Daeje 23, 60Juwangsan National Park

178-9, 178, 179

KKaesong (North Korea)

318-19kayaking 33Kim Dae-jung 354-5Kim Il-sung 325-7, 351-3Kim Jong-il 326-8Kim Jong-un 324-8, 336-7,

357Korea basics 16-17Korean language 400-5Korean War 326, 351-3K-Pop 87, 376K-shuttle 397Kumgang Region (North

Korea) 322

LLake Bomun Resort 163,

163land reclamation 383language 16, 19, 400-5Lee Myung-bak 356legal matters 332, 391LGBT+ travellers 391literature 377Lotus Lantern Festival

23, 60

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

411IN

DEX M

Mmagazines 386Maisan Provincial Park 273markets

Daegu’s Herbal Medicine Market 149

Daein-sijang 214Gwangjang Market 12,

75, 13Incheon Fish

Market 108Jagalchi Fish

Market 182, 21Jinju Jungang

Market 204Jungang Live Fish

Market 203Namdaemun Market 49Noryangjin Fish

Market 51Stairway Flea Market 56 Yeosu Fish Market 223

Mass Games (North Korea) 312, 318

measures 386medical tourism 391memorials

Jangsu-dae 126Korean War Memorial 120May 18th National

Cemetery 215Seobok Exhibition Hall

260metro travel 398Moaksan Provincial Park 273mobile phones 16, 332-3,

392-3Mokpo 231-5, 232money 16-17, 19, 332,

389, 391monuments & sculptures

Chollima Statue (North Korea) 313

Kumsusan Memorial Palace of the Sun (North Korea) 312

Mansudae Grand Monument (North Korea) 312

Monument to the Foundation of the Workers’ Party (North Korea) 313

Monument to the Old City Wall 149

Tangent 57 Tower of the Juche Idea

(North Korea) 312Triumphal Arch (North

Korea) 313moon bears 384

Moon Jae-in 336-8, 357motorcycle travel 397

language 404Mudeungsan

National Park 214, 229Muju 274-5multiculturalism 361mural villages 374museums & galleries 21-2

Alternative Art Space Noon 102

Anapji Pond 158-60Andong Folklore

Museum 173Another Way of

Seeing 49Arario Museum 240Asian Culture Complex

215Busan Modern History

Museum 183Busan Museum of

Art 183Busan Museum of

Movies 182-3Buyeo National

Museum 291Chamsori Gramophone

& Edison Museum 135Cheongnyangsan

Museum 178Daebul Hotel 109Daegu Modern History

Museum 149Daegu National

Museum 148Daegu Yangnyeongsi

Museum of Oriental Medicine 149

Damyang Bamboo Crafts Museum 220

DMZ Museum 128Early Printing

Museum 299Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea

Memorial Hall 223Fishing Village Folk

Museum 141Ganghwa History

Museum 116Gochang Pansori

Museum 277Goryeo Celadon

Museum 227Gunsan Modern History

Museum 279Gwacheon National

Science Museum 106-7Gwangju Biennale

Exhibition Hall 215Gwangju Folk Museum

214-15

Gwangju Museum of Art 215

Gwangju National Museum 215

Gyeonggi Provincial Museum 102

Gyeongju National Museum 158

Haenyeo Museum 251Hamel Memorial 263Hankook Dojakwon 106Haslla Art World 139Historic Park of Geoje

POW Camp 201Hoam Art Museum 104House of Sharing 349Icheon World Ceramics

Centre 106Incheon Art Platform 109Incheon Landing

Operation Memorial Hall 109

Incheon Metropolitan City Museum 109-10

Incheon Open Port Museum 109

Insect Ecology Museum 131

International Friendship Exhibition (North Korea) 321-2

IPark Museum of Art 102Jajangmyeon Museum

109Jeju April 3 Peace Park

241Jeju Folklore & Natural

History Museum 243Jeju Loveland 265Jeju Museum of Art 241Jeju Museum of

Contemporary Art 264Jeonju Hanji Museum

270-1Jikji Museum of

Buddhist Arts 157Jinju National

Museum 204Kim Young Gap Gallery

Dumoak 252Korea Tea Museum 226Korean Emigration

History Museum 109Korean Revolution

Museum (North Korea) 313

Korean Stone Art Museum 55

Lee Jung-Seop Art Gallery & Park 259

Leeum Samsung Museum of Art 55

MMCA Seoul 48Modern Architecture

Museum 110Mokpo Ceramic

Livingware Museum 232

Mokpo Culture & Arts Center 231

Mokpo Modern History Museum 232

Mokpo Natural History Museum 231

Mr Toilet House 101Museum of Sex & Health

265Mystery of Caves

Exhibition 141Nam June Paik Art

Centre 101Namnong Memorial

Hall 231National Folk Museum of

Korea 49National Maritime

Museum 231National Museum of

Korea 55National Museum of

Modern and Contemporary Art 107

O’Sulloc Tea Museum 264

Party Founding Museum (North Korea) 313, 316

Samsung Transportation Museum 104

Sansawon Brewery & Museum 102

Seodaemun Prison History Hall 55

Seoul City Wall Museum 57

Seoul K-Medi Center 57Soju Museum 174Songgyungwan

Neo-Confucian College (North Korea) 318-19

Taebaek Coal Museum 139

Tongdo-sa Museum 200Traditional Wine Museum

269Uijae Museum of Korean

Art 214Victorious Fatherland

Liberation War Museum (North Korea) 313

War Memorial of Korea 55-6

Wooyong Museum of Contemporary Art 163

World Eros Museum 265

412

IND

EX M-P

museums & galleries continued

Yeomyeong Camera Museum 269

Yumin Art Museum 253music 87, 376Muuido 112-14, 113Myohyangsan (North

Korea) 321-2

NNaejangsan National Park

273-4, 274Naksan Provincial Park

131-2Nam June Paik 374Namhaedo 206-8Namhansanseong

Provincial Park 105Nampo (North Korea) 319Namsan 49, 58, 58, 164national parks 30, 380-1,

see also provincial parks

Bukhansan 99Byeonsan-bando 277-9,

278Chiaksan 145, 145Dadohae Haesang

(Marine Archipelago) 235-6

Deogyusan 274-5, 276, 31

Gyeryongsan 285-7, 286Haegeumgang 200Hallasan 257-9, 257,

248, 249, 382Hongdo 228 Jirisan 208-11, 210Juwangsan 178-9, 179Mudeungsan 214, 229Naejangsan 273-4, 274Odaesan 132-4, 133Seoraksan 123-7, 124-5Sobaeksan 307-8, 308Songnisan 301-2, 302Taeanhaean National

Marine Park 295-6Wolchulsan 234, 228-9Woraksan 304-5, 305

newspapers 386nightlife, see individual

neighbourhoodsNorth Korea 36, 309-34, 311

accommodation 309, 331

area codes 310arts 330-1‘axis of evil’ 328books 345budget 310children 312children, travel with 331climate 309culture 328-31currency 310, 332customs regulations 331demographics 329-30documentaries 338embassies 332environment 331exchange rates 310food 309highlights 311history 325-8internet access 332itineraries 310legal matters 332lifestyle 329Mass Games 312, 318mobile phones 332-3money 332photography 332planning 310politics 324-5population 329-30post 332religion 330safety 321sport 330telephone services 332-3time 333tipping 332toilets 333tours 310, 333-4travel seasons 309travel to/from 334travel within 334visas 333

notable buildings, see also historic buildings

Busan Tower 182Dongdaemun Design

Plaza & Park 56-7, 69 Glass House 252Gyeongui Line Forest

Park 51Heunginjimun 57KT&G Sangsang-

Madang 51N Seoul Tower 49Nurimaru APEC House

183

Seoul City Hall 51, 21Simsimheon 49

OOdaesan National Park

132-4, 133Oksan 167-8outdoor activities 20, 29-

33, see also individual activities

PPaekdusan (North Korea)

322-3pagodas, see temples &

pagodaspalaces

Changdeokgung 9, 45, 8-9, 45

Deoksugung 49, 2Goryeogungji Palace

115-16Gyeongbokgung 42-92,

5, 68-9Gyeonggijeon 269Hwaseong Haenggung

101-2 Palgongsan Provincial Park

156, 157Panmunjom (North Korea)

319-20Park Chung-hee 354Park Geun-hye 338, 356-7parks & gardens, see

also national parks, provincial parks

Busan Citizens Park 183Cheollipo Arboretum 296Cheong-gye-cheon 15,

42-3, 15, 68Daegu Arboretum 149Daehan Dawon Tea

Plantation 226Geumgang Park 187Gimnyeong Maze Park

247Gongjicheon Sculpture

Park 121-2Gugyedeung 230Gyeongsanggamyeong

Park 149Gyeongui Line Forest

Park 51Haesindang Park 140Hallim Park 266Huwon 45, 45 Igidae 185Jayu Park 110Jeju Stone Park 241Jinyangho Lake Park 204

Juknokwon 220Mineral Spring Park 170Moran Hill (North Korea)

313Olympic Park 57, 59Orchid Exhibition Hall

232Saryeoni Forest 241Seoullo 7017 49, 51Spirited Garden 264Taejongdae Park 187Unification Park 138-9Wolmi Park 110Yongdu-san Park 183Yudalsan Park 231

performing arts 374, 375photography 332, 391-2planning 16-17, see also

individual regionscalendar of events 23-4children, travel with 56,

331, 389first-time visitors 18-19itineraries 25-8Korea’s regions 34packing 18travel seasons 23-4

plants 380Pohang 168-9pojangmacha 207politics 324-5, 336-7population 329-30, 337post 332, 392provincial parks 30, 380-1,

see also national parksCheongnyangsan 177-8Daedunsan 272Duryunsan 226Gajisan 200Jogyesan 221-2, 222Maisan 273Moaksan 273Naksan 131-2Namhansanseong 105Palgongsan 156, 157Taebaeksan 139

public holidays 392Pyeongchang 142-4Pyongyang (North Korea)

311-18, 314-15accommodation 316-17activities 316cinema 318drinking & nightlife

317-18entertainment 318food 317funfairs 316metro 334

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

413IN

DEX P

-Z shopping 318sights 312-16

Pyoseon 255-6

Rradio 386rafting 33, 32Rajin-Sonbong (North

Korea) 323-4religion 330, 337, 358,

359, 361renewable energy 381-2responsible travel 379restaurants 362-6Rhee Syngman 351-4rock climbing 29-30Roh Moo-hyun 355-6

Ssafety 90, 392, 397Sagye-ri 263-4Samcheok 140-2Sapisdo 294-5, 295scuba diving, see divingSeogwipo 259-63, 260Seongsan-ri 252-5Seongsu-Dong 60Seonyudo 279Seoraksan National Park

123-7, 124Seoul 34, 38-92, 39, 46-7,

52-3, 62, 73, 74, 78, 81, 84, 88, 15, 21, 31, 359

accommodation 38, 60-7activities 59children, travel with 56climate 38courses 59cycling tours 65, 65drinking & nightlife

77-85entertainment 85-6festivals & events 60food 38, 67-77highlights 39, 44-5history 39, 42itineraries 43, 50, 58, 65,

50, 58, 65neighbourhoods at a

glance 40-1safety 90shopping 86-90sights 42-59tourist information 90-1tours 60travel seasons 38travel to/from 91-2

travel within 92walking tours 50, 58,

50, 58shamanism 359shopping 22, see also

individual locationsSinchon (North Korea) 319Sinyang-ri 252-5skiing 30, 32, 96, 142-3, 275smoking 91, 392snowboarding 30, 32, 96soap operas 374Sobaeksan National Park

307-8, 308soccer, see footballsoju 367-8Sokcho 127-30, 129Songnisan National Park

301-2, 302sport 360, see also

individual sportsSuanbo 303-4subway travel 398Suncheon 220-1, 221surfing 33, 296Suwon 99-104, 100

TTaeanhaean National

Marine Park 295-6Taebaeksan Provincial

Park 139tap water 332, 392taxis 398tea 366-7telephone services 16,

332-3, 392-3temples & pagodas

Baekdam-sa 126Beomeo-sa 185Beopjang-sa 158Beopju-sa 301Bogyeong-sa 168Bokdu-am Hermitage

164Bomun-sa 116Bongeun-sa 57Bori-am 206-7Bulguk-sa 12, 162, 13Bunhwang-sa 160Cheongnyang-sa 177Chilbul-sa 209Daeheung-sa 226Daewon-sa (Jirisan

National Park) 209Daewon-sa (Jirisan

National Park) 209Daewon-sa (Ulleungdo)

170

Deokju-sa 304-5Donghwa-sa 156Gilsang-sa 55Girim-sa 163Golgul-sa 162Guin-sa 14, 307-8, 14Guryong-sa 145Haedong Yonggungsa 187Haein-sa 155Hwaeom-sa 208-9Hyangir-am 222-3Jeondeung-sa 116Jikji-sa 156Jogye-sa 43, 48Magok-sa 288Mireuksaji 304Naejang-sa 274Naeso-sa 278Naewon-sa 209Naksan-sa 131Ongnyong-am 163-4Paldal-sa 102Pyohon Temple (North

Korea) 322Sanbanggul-sa 263Seokbul-sa 186-7Seokguram 162Seoknam-sa 200Seonam-sa 222Seonun-sa 277Seven-Storey Brick

Pagoda 173Sinheung-sa 126Songgwang-sa 222Ssanggye-sa 208Thirteen-Storey Stone

Pagoda 168Tongdo-sa 200Unju-sa 214

templestays 14, 388-9, 14time 16, 333tipping 19, 332T-Money Card 399toilets 333, 393tombs & mausoleums

Bonghwangdae 158Bullo-dong Tumuli-

gongwon 149Dosan Seowon 174Gatbawi 156Inwangsan Guksadang 55Jebiwon Seokbul 173-4Jongmyo 48-9 Noseo-dong Tombs 158Samneung 163Tomb of General Kim

Yusin 164Tomb of King Kongmin

(North Korea) 318

Tumuli-gongwon 158Tongyeong 202-4tourist information 393, 394train travel 398-9translation services 394transport 395-9

language 404travel seasons 16, see

also individual regionstravel to/from Korea 395travel within Korea 395-9trekking, see hikingTV 374, 386

UUdo 253Ulleungdo 169-73, 170

Vvegan & vegetarian

travellers 366video art 373-4visas 16, 333, 393-4visual arts 373-4volunteering 394

Wwalking, see hikingWando 230-1, 230water parks, see

amusement parksweather 16, see also

individual regionsweights 386winter sports 9, 96, 9, see

also individual sportsWolchulsan National Park

234, 228-9Woljeong Beach 251Wolmido 107-8women in Korea 350Wonju 142Wonsan (North Korea) 320Woraksan National Park

304-5, 305work 394World Heritage sites 20

YYangdong Folk Village 167Yeongjongdo 112, 113Yeosu 222-5, 224

Zzip lines 120

414

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Phillip TangSeoul, Jeju-doPhillip grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho and fish’n’chips before moving to Mexico City. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cultures launched him into travel and then writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. Writing at hellophillip.com, photos @mrtangtangtang, and tweets @philliptang. Philip also wrote the Outdoor Activities, In the Korean Kitchen, Directory and Transport chapters.

Rob WhyteChungcheongnam-do, Jeollabuk-doRob is a Korea-based writer, explorer and educator. For almost two decades, he has been travelling the country with a special interest in island getaways, long distance walks on isolated trails and barbecue-pork restaurants. He has written Korea travel and foody content for numerous Lonely Planet publications.

North Korea The writer of our North Korea chapter has chosen to remain anonymous.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Běijīng and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

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OUR WRITERSDamian HarperChungcheongbuk-do, Gangwon-do, Gyeongsangbuk-doWith two degrees (one in modern and classical Chinese from SOAS), Damian has been writing for Lonely Planet for over two decades, contributing to titles as diverse as China, Běijīng, Shànghǎi, Vietnam, Thailand, Ireland, London, Mallor-ca, Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei and Hong Kong. A seasoned guidebook writer, Damian has penned articles for numerous newspapers and magazines, including

the Guardian and the Daily Telegraph, and currently makes Surrey, England, his home. A self-taught trumpet novice, his other hobbies include collecting modern first editions, photography and Taekwondo. Follow Damian on Instagram @damian.harper. Damian also wrote the Plan Your Trip (excluding Outdoor Activities), Korea Today and History chapters.

MaSovaida MorganBusan & Gyeongsangnam-do, Jeollanam-doMaSovaida is a Lonely Planet writer and multimedia storyteller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 35 countries across six continents. Prior to freelanc-ing, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America for four years and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida. MaSovaida also wrote The Kore-

an People, Architecture & the Arts and The Natural Environment chapters.

Thomas O’MalleySeoul, Around SeoulA British writer based in Beijing, Tom is a world-leading connoisseur of cheap eats, dive bars, dark alleyways and hangovers. He has contributed travel stories to everyone from the BBC to Playboy, and reviews hotels for the Telegraph. Under another guise, he is a comedy scriptwriter. Follow him by walking behind at a distance.

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