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UNUNTRY YYTRY &&& MMi i l

LTICCCLTICOOOUOUMUMULL RYYYRYUNTUNT

Welcome to Vanuatu & New Caledonia ............. 2Map .................................. 412 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 14If You Like... ..................... 16Month by Month ............. 19Itineraries ........................ 22Which Island? ................. 27Diving ............................... 34Travel with Children ....... 38Regions at a Glance ....... 41

VanuatuVanuatu Today ................ 96History ............................. 98Environment ................... 106Traditional Village Life ... 109Art & Music ..................... 112Vanuatu’s Local Food .... 115

New CaledoniaNew Caledonia Today .... 172History ............................. 174Environment ................... 182Traditional Kanak Culture .......................... 185Art & Architecture .......... 188New Caledonia’s Local Food .................... 191

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

I SBN 978 -1 -74220 -032 -3

9 781742 200323

99815

PLAN YOUR TRIP

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND VANUATU & NEW CALEDONIA

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see

Life in the Tropics In Vanuatu and New Caledonia you’ll nd a touch of the exotic in the everyday. Life here is always entertaining, whether you’re being surprised by turtles peeking out of the sea, sidestepping crabs at the mar-ket, or eyeing up unruly mounds of kava before it gets pounded up at a kava bar. Getting around the islands where these gnarly roots are grown may not be simple, but you’re guaranteed a welcoming smile, basic lodgings and an insight into local life if you do visit. Wherever you go, take in the little pleasures that pop up each day, whether it’s bright owers strewn on your bed, fresh coconut milk ready for the

drinking, or being in town during a havest festival.

Take the kids to Vanuatu; the ni-Vachildren are a lot of fun, and there’s aways beachside hermit-crab action fentertainment. Letting the young ’upeer into a live volcano will give a whonew meaning to future geography classeThere’s plenty to do for adults, too. Parin Noumea and practice your French. Dcover the world’s second-biggest reef oa few dives. Yachties ock to the Paciand the ni-Vans in particular know hoto put on a good welcome. Sound litoo much work? These countries are alideal for anyone keen on doing nothinbut relaxing.

Tropical weather brings light and life to sandy beaches and azure waters. Throughout the islands, strong communities show off their country’s attributes to a soundtrack of drumming and dance.

welcome to Vanuatu & New Caledonia

Grande Terre’s Southern Sights

8 The far south is adventure central – it’s here you’ll nd accommodation literally hanging

from trees (yep, rock yourself to sleep in a sus-pended canvas cocoon, p000). Go on a moonlit kayak through a forest of drowned kauri trees at the 80-sq-km Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue (p 145 ) then head to the former convict settlement of Prony (p 147 ). It’s one of the more unusual villages in New Caledonia: a mixture of rivers, crumbling stone ruins, historic houses and ocean-fronting beach, all on a surprisingly miniature scale. Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue, New Caledonia

Pirogues & Feasting on the Île des Pins

9 Start the day watching local craftsmen build pirogues (outrigger canoes) at Baie

de St Joseph (p 169 ), then sail around the area with thanks to the wind and the skills of your boatman. There’s a snorkel-friendly natural aquarium (La Piscine Naturelle, p 170 ) in the northeastern corner of the island and, if you follow the nearby river, you will nd some of the best outdoor restaurants in the country within walking distance. Dine under shady trees and indulge in freshly barbecued lobster before returning to your traditional Kanak bungalow (or luxury resort) to rest. Langouste

FRA

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These two different pacific countries, located a hop, skip, and jump away from each other, offer travellers excellent experiences; decide what you’re looking for (Volcanoes? Dugongs? Adventure?) and suss it out island by intoxicating island (the main ones are listed below). Vanuatu, away from its smooth-faced resorts, has a rugged side to it; get

Efate City Life Adventure Islands

City Life There are activities galore straight off Port Vila’s shore, and terrific produce and souvenir markets to explore. Bars come alive in the evening, but during the day check out the waterfront cafes and watch life go on

regions at a glance

vanuatu-new-caledonia-7-cover.indd 2vanuatu-new-caledonia-7-cover.indd 2 31/07/2012 4:17:13 PM31/07/2012 4:17:13 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

New CaledoniaDirectory A–Z ................. 194Transport ........................ 200

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Jayne D’Arcy

CaledoniaNew

p130

p50Vanuatu

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDEVanuatuDirectory A–Z ................. 118Transport ........................ 125

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

Health .............................. 206Language ........................ 209Index ................................ 219Map Legend .................... 223

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation S A green or

sustainable option F No payment required

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

VANUATU . . . . . . . . . . .50EFATE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Port Vila & Around . . . . . . . .54White Sands Beach . . . . . . 64Eton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Takara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Siviri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Havannah Harbour . . . . . . . .65West Coast Offshore Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Nguna & Pele . . . . . . . . . . . 66EPI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67TANNA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Mt Yasur & East Tanna . . . 69West Tanna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73MALEKULA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74The Dog’s Head . . . . . . . . . .76Lakatoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77Uripiv & Uri . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Lamap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78The Maskelynes . . . . . . . . . .78AMBRYM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79SANTO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Luganville & Around . . . . . .85The East Coast Road . . . . . . 91Ambae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92REMOTE NORTHERN ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Maewo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92Gaua (Santa Maria) . . . . . . .93Vanua Lava . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93Motalava & Rah . . . . . . . . . 94Torres Islands . . . . . . . . . . . 94PENTECOST . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94

VANUATU TODAY . . . .96

VANUATU HISTORY . .98

VANUATU ENVIRONMENT . . . . . 106

TRADITIONALVILLAGE CULTURE . .109

ART & MUSIC . . . . . . 112

VANUATU’S LOCAL FOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115

VANUATUDIRECTORY A–Z . . . . 118

VANUATU TRANSPORT . . . . . . . 125

NEW CALEDONIA . . . 130GRANDE TERRE . . . . . . . . . 132Noumea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133The Far South . . . . . . . . . . .145Boulouparis . . . . . . . . . . . . .149La Foa & Around . . . . . . . . .150Bourail & Around . . . . . . . . 151Northwest Coast . . . . . . . .152The Far North . . . . . . . . . . .153Northeast Coast . . . . . . . . .155LOYALTY ISLANDS . . . . . . . 158Maré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158Lifou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Ouvéa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164ÎLE DES PINS . . . . . . . . . . . 167

Vao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168Kuto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169The West Coast . . . . . . . . . . 170Baie d’Oro & Around . . . . . 170

NEW CALEDONIA TODAY . . . . . . . . . . . . 172

NEW CALEDONIAN HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . 174

NEW CALEDONIAN ENVIRONMENT . . . . . 182

TRADITIONALKANAK CULTURE . . . 185

ART & ARCHITECTURE . . . . 188

NEW CALEDONIA’S LOCAL FOOD . . . . . . . 191

NEW CALEDONIA DIRECTORY A–Z . . . . 194

NEW CALEDONIA TRANSPORT . . . . . . 200

S O U T HP A C I F I C O C E A N

C O R A L S E A

TORBAPROVINCE

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PENAMA PROVINCE

TAFEAPROVINCE

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Sola

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Naone

Lunaragi

VureasWaterfall Bay

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Lamen Bay

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NOUMEA

Anelcauhat

Port Olry

Mt Sere'ama (921m)

Mt Garet(797m)

Mt Lolohoe(1547m)

(1496m)

Mt Valmat(946m)

Mt Marum(1270m)

Mt Pomare (833m)

Mt Tabwemasana(1879m)

Mt Kotamatam

(1747m)

Mt Penot (879m)

Mt Lombenben

Mt MacDonald (647m)

Mt Santop(886m)

Mt Yasur(361m)

170ºE169ºE168ºE167ºE166ºE165ºE

14ºS

15ºS

170ºE

20ºS

16ºS

17ºS

18ºS

19ºS

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Mota

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BANKS ISLANDS

Toga

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LunaTORRESISLANDS

Loh

Gaua(Santa Maria)

Sakao

Espiritu Santo

Ureparapara

Hiu

Ambae Pentecost

Lopevi

TongoaTongariki

Paama

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Ewose

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Tranquillity Island

Buninga SHEPHERDISLANDS

ErromangoAniwa

Tanna

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Mystery Is Aneityum

TannaLoyalty Islands

ErromangoEfate

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Maewo

CapeCumberland

VANUATU

CALEDONIANEW

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1200m

800m

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Ambae’s Crater LakesFind crater lakes

through misty clouds (p92)

Pentecost See the original

bungee jumping (p94)

AmbrymBuy original carvings

from local artisans (p79)

TannaHeat up at Tanna’s

awesome volcano (p68)

SantoWWII ruins and naturalunderwater beauty (p83)

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Top Experiences ›

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Jayne D’Arcy New Caledonia, Vanuatu Jayne started her travels with overland Asia trips, but has discovered that overland in the South Pacific can offer up similar diversity and excitement (with more French imports). Aside from the French influence, Jayne digs the coral reefs, astounding lagoons and serious Survivor opportu-nities that the area has in abundance. When she’s not researching for Lonely Planet (this is her 17th guide), Jayne writes for the Age in Victoria, Australia.

OUR WRITER

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9837th edition – Nov 2012ISBN 978 1 74220 032 3© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

SOUTH PACIFIC

OCEA N

#•Tadine

LOYA LT YISL ANDSOUVÉA

LIFOU

MARÉ

#_NOUMEA

CO RAL

SE A

Baie deJinek

Baie de Jokin

Shabadran

EniBeach

R#•

Wanaham

#–

#–

#f

#–

#•Houloup

#•

LaRoche

#•#• É

É

Wé

É

É

É

É

É

É

ÉÉ

Le Saut duGuerrier

ÉGRANDETERRE

#•

#•

#•

One WeekExploring the Loyalty Islands

You can explore New Caledonia’s three Loyalty Islands in a week; begin by flying from the domestic airport in Noumea to Ouvéa. Stay three nights, soaking up the sun on the island’s 25km of white-sand beaches. Spend one day on an organised day trip that offers snorkelling off an uninhabited island, a fresh-fish barbeque and a

peek at the local shark population. Check out the turtles from Ouvéa’s only bridge and keep an eye out for more sharks. There’s scuba diving here, too.

Waterlogged, fly to Lifou (landing at Wanaham) and enjoy more island life, spotting tur-tles in its southeastern bays, visiting stunning beaches on its west and east coasts and enjoying the great snorkelling at Baie de Jinek in its northwest. After staying at the nearby cliff spot of Baie de Jokin, head down to Wé to catch the ferry to Tadine on the little-explored Maré. Pick up you hire car from Tadine’s ferry port and head south to the lovely Eni Beach. Whales pass by here between July and September. Stay the night before heading to the island’s east and hiking Shabadran with a guide. Gaze at the spectacular Le Saut du Guerrier (Warrior’s Leap) near La Roche before dropping of your hire car and catching a flight back to Noumea.

22

CORAL

SEA

SOUTH

PACIF IC

OCEA N

ESPIRITUSANTO

EFATE

PELE

ChampagneBeach

MillionDollarPoint

Hideaway Island

IririkiIsland

ErakorIsland

#Ù

#•

Luganville

#•#•#• PORT VILA

NGUNA

#• Oyster Island

#–É

É

ÉÉLeweton CulturalVillage

É#•#•

É É

#_

#•#•

Five DaysVanuatu’s Beaches & Islands

Start exploring Vanuatu’s watery delights with a visit to all three of the almost football-field sized islands off Port Vila. On day one, don a snorkel and fins and send a postcard from the underwater mailbox at Hideaway Island. Spend day two enjoying lunch on Erakor Island, followed by a paddle in its calm shallow waters.

Then, as the sun goes down, hop on the regular ferry to Iririki Island for dinner. Each island has its own resort but you don’t need to stay at them to visit. If manicured-resort fatigue kicks in, travel north by public transport or hire car and take the short boat trip to the islands of Nguna or Pele. Experience hospitality ni-Van style while staying in a rustic bungalow by the beach. It’s very chilled out; your entertainment will most likely be hermit-crab watching.

Head back to Port Vila to catch a plane north to Luganville, the capital of Santo. Get straight into the action by exploring the underwater WWII dumping ground of Million Dollar Point and dive the wreck of the luxury liner USS President Coolidge. Once the div-ing’s done, make your way north to recover on comfortable and fun Oyster Island. For a change from beaches, borrow one of the resort’s kayaks and paddle your way to its nearby blue hole. You won’t be able to resist diving into its luminous bright blue water once you get there.

Return the kayak and venture further north by road to Champagne Beach, which is one of Vanuatu’s most impressive beaches. Its cuticle shape holds in whiter-than-white sand and clear turquoise waters. It’s a cruise-ship favourite but, if you’re lucky, you’ll have it all to yourself. If you haven’t managed to get all the sand out from between your toes, be tempted by the presence of yet more blue holes along the road back south. To finish off the watery Vanuatu experience stop at Leweton Cultural Village in time to see women and children from the northern island of Gaua perform water music. The soothing sounds and images will stick with you as you board your flight from Luganville back to Port Vila.

23PLAN

YOUR TRIP IT

INER

AR

IES

Baie desCitrons

AnseVata

SOUTH

PACIF IC

OCEA N

Place desCocotiers

SOUTH

PACIF IC

OCEA N

‚To Îlot Maître(2km)

#•

#•

#•Aquariumdes Lagons

Musée deNouvelle-Calédonie

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#• É

Port Moselle

Le Marché

#•

#•

É

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#•

#•TjibaouCulturalCentre

É

#•

One DayNoumea

Those who arrive by cruise ship are lucky; the terminal is smack bang in the middle of Noumea. Start your day with a bit of shopping around nearby Place des Coco-tiers. If you leave it until later shops may be shut. Drop off your purchases and walk south to the multi hexagonal municipal city market, Le Marché. Stand and drink

your coffee like a local, buy fresh fruit, then walk up Rue Eugéne Porcheron for some of the best pastries in the country. Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie is nearby; spend an hour here exploring Kanak culture and Melanesian artefacts.

Hop on the local bus to Baie des Citrons and settle onto your patch of sandy beach (there are grassed bits too). Have a swim and chill out on the floating pontoons just like the locals do. Dry off and walk to the Aquarium des Lagons (a waterfront aquarium). Spend at least an hour here, admiring the sharks and lagoon-dwelling sea life. Continue walk-ing to Anse Vata, a beachside hive of shopping and eating. Adventurous types can depart here for some kite surfing on the windy but pretty Îlot Maître (book ahead, and take your snorkelling gear).

Then it’s time to smarten up and make your way (phone for a taxi) to the architectur-ally amazing Tjibaou Cultural Centre. The walk around it, complete with informative plaques, is impressive, as are the exhibitions inside. Call for another taxi or wait for the local blue bus to take you back to the centre. Watch the yachting life while unwinding with an aperitif at a waterfront bar at Port Moselle, before ending your day with a wander through the historic and character-filled Quartier Latin (Latin Quarter).

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OCEAN

#•

NOUMEACO RAL

SE A

ÎLE DES PINS

La PiscineNaturelle

#•#•Boulouparis

Plage deOuano

#•Relais dePoingam

#•Hienghène

#•Poindimié

Parc Provincialde la Rivière Bleue

#÷

#•Prony

É

É

É

É

É

É

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GRANDETERRE

É

É

É

É

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Baie de Kuto

La Foa

#•#f

#_

#•É

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Two WeeksNew Caledonia

Spend a few days in Noumea, swimming at the beaches (Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons) and practicing your French. Indulge in French pastries and bistro meals and don’t miss the local market for your morning dose of caffeine. By all means loll around the hotel pool, but emerge to see the gorgeous Aquarium des Lagons and,

further out, the Tjibaou Cultural Centre. On day four, wake up early and catch a ferry to Île des Pins. On arrival at the wharf

in the Baie de Kuto, pick up your waiting rental car and stop at all the sights en route to La Piscine Naturelle (a natural aquarium). Walk along the river to a simple beachside restaurant where you can eat lobster or (if you’ve ordered in advance) traditionally cooked bougna. Stay nearby in a traditional bungalow by the water. Head back to the Baie de Kuto to return the car and jump back on the ferry to Noumea. Dance like there’s no tomorrow at an over-water nightclub. Recover, then hire another car (make this one a lovely new French import) and head north along the west coast for a week of cultural exploration.

Stay waterside, snorkelling and scuba diving at Boulouparis, and surfing at Plage de Ouano. Take a day out and head inland near La Foa to visit a farmstay in the depths of deer-hunting cowboy country. Return to the west coast road and head north again. Book early for a couple of magic days at Relais de Poingam, right at the tip of Grande Terre, before travelling across the top and part way down the east coast, buying up local Kanak carvings and fresh tropical fruits from roadside stalls on your way. Stay in one of the great (and simple) beachside bungalows and take advantage of more snorkelling and scuba div-ing opportunities. There are some interesting towns here – try to coincide your trip with the regular markets. Drive onto the terrific river ferry en route to Hienghène, and cross back to the west on the RPN2 after exploring Poindimié. Retrace your path along the west coast back to Noumea.

Still time? Duck down to the Grande Terre’s Far South and explore the Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue by canoe. Head even further south and see the former convict centre of Prony. If the whales are around (between July and September), catch a boat from here to get a little closer to them before heading back to Noumea.

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TANNA

AMBRYM

AMBAE

PORT VILA

RMt Yasur

Craig Cove

Longana

#–

#–#–

#–

Mt Marum

MtBenbow

Ambanga

#•#•

#•Whitegrass Airport

É

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#•RR

#_

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EFATE

10 DaysVolcanic Vanuatu

Take the early morning flight from Port Vila straight to Whitegrass Airport on the island of Tanna. Choose your accommodation from the resort or bungalows nearby and hang out in the blue pools filled with coral and fish. Join a tour to a kastom (traditional) village to see how Tanna’s tribes have been living for cen-

turies; if you’re lucky you’ll get a peek at some black magic – it’s particularly strong on this island.

Then rest up and prepare to cross a vast ash plain by 4WD truck in the late afternoon. Stop and take photos of this moon-like surface with Mt Yasur rising in the background. The 4WD drops you a few minutes’ walk from this active volcano’s lip. Settle into your view-ing position and when dusk approaches witness the fireworks as lava and smoke spit out. Stay in a treehouse beneath the volcano for added spark – you’ ll hear the rumbles and lava explosions all night. Climb back up in the morning if you want to get another sulphur fix before crossing the island again and flying back to Port Vila.

From Port Vila, fly to Craig Cove on the island of Ambrym. The island has several routes to get to the Mt Benbow and Mt Marum volcanoes; each community has its own paths and guides to get you there, and each involves a different degree of difficulty. Reach-ing the volcanoes requires a four- to eight-hour walk and incorporates an overnight stay camping by the rim (only if it’s safe to do so – check the warnings first).

Finally, fly from Craig Cove to Longana on the island of Ambae. Once there, head up to Ambanga (a two-hour 4WD journey away) and in the morning set off to visit Ambae’s three crater lakes with a guide. The lakes are accessible on foot, though it’s fairly dense forest that you’ll be making your way through. Take your camping gear and stay the night by one of the lakes before returning to Longana for your flight back to Port Vila.

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