LOG CABIN - Mason-Dixon Knitting...Knitting a block, then picking up stitches and knitting another...

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mason-dixon knittingfield guide n0. 4

Kay Gardiner and Ann Shayne

LOG CABIN

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Introduction

Log Cabin Cloths

Chawne Kimber: Hero of Improvisation

Ninepatch Blanket

Sommerfeld ShawlAnn Weaver

Abbreviations

3.

6.

20.

24.

36.

48.

CONTENTS

Log Cabin

mdk field guide no. 4

Kay Gardiner and Ann Shayne

2 | | 3

INTRODUCTION

You hold in your hands the only knitting book you will ever need. OK, strike that—we’re the last people to tell you to have only one knitting book. You need a

hundred of them! A thousand, for pity’s sake. Never stop getting new knitting books. (Brought to you by the Endlessly Blabbing Knitting Book Authors of America Guild™.)

That said, we arrive here at a Field Guide that provides you with a single, simple technique that can set you off on a knitting excur-sion that has the potential to last for decades. It is as simple as garter stitch, as absorbing as the most fancypants color study you’d ever cook up, as intricate as a handmade quilt.

Log cabin knitting is based on the idea of a quilt. Blocks of color combine to form geometric shapes. Sounds so simple, doesn’t it? Well, a kaleidoscope is simple too, until you start to see that the patterns emerging are endless and unique.

As with quilting, log cabin knitting can be as simple or complex as you like. It can be a blanket that you plan with absolute pre-cision, or it can be as improvisational as a crazy quilt. You can start with a careful drawing, or you can pile up a bunch of yarn and simply start. We’ve done both, and we love both. With this Field Guide we hope you will discover what we have discovered: Knitting a block, then picking up stitches and knitting another block onto the first one is an idea akin to picking up a paintbrush and opening a box of watercolors. It works with any yarn, at any scale. It’s portable. It’s gigantic.

Blue/Green; Gray/Brown; and Red/Pink colorways for the Sommerfeld Shawl (page 36)

4 |

The projects in this Field Guide are designed to take you on a progression. Begin with a set of cheerful cotton cloths filled with techniques that set you up for log cabin greatness. Move on to a blanket that plays with the color possibilities of log cabin. And finally, a filmy wrap of multiple colors and textures shows how far afield log cabin knitting can go.

Once you start log cabin knitting, suddenly everything looks like something to knit. Someday, we’ll publish a set of patterns based on Office Buildings We Have Loved. Windows Around the World. Great Hardwood Floors. Until then, let’s start with knitting patches onto patches and see where that takes us.

6 | | 7

LOG CABIN CLOTHS

Knitters, typically, are not impro-visers. We are a pattern people. We like instructions.

What if we gave people instructions on how to improvise? That’s what these six cloths are: the fundamen-tal lessons of log cabin construction. As washcloths or dish rags (or whatever other fun purpose you might choose for them) they are beautiful and easy to knit. But they also intro-duce a few of the many different ways you can work with the log cabin technique.

8 | | 9

Quilters have a saying: “If it’s too long, cut it off; if it’s too short, add some on.” Although it’s difficult to “cut it off ” in knitting, this is the improvisational spirit behind log cabin knitting. If it’s too long, rip it back; if it’s too short, pick up stitches and knit some more on. Once you’ve worked your way through this set of cloths, you will have the tools to cook up your own log cabins. You can join your cloths together into a large cushion cover or a small baby blanket, to which you can “add some on” by knitting on borders. You can make a whole pile or just one or two, arrange them as you like, join them up and make a stunning bed cover. You can riff on color placement and create patterns.

Here are the skills. The rest is up to you.

kniTTed meASuRemenTS 71/4" wide × 71/4" long [18.5 cm × 18.5 cm],

after blocking

mATeRiAlS — Handknit Cotton by Rowan [1.75 oz

(50 g) balls, each approx 93 yds

(85 m), 100% cotton]

Ecru, 1 ball

Linen, 1 ball

Raspberry, 1 ball

Thunder, 1 ball

Slate, 1 ball

Cloud, 1 ball

— Size US 6 (4 mm) short, straight

needles, or size needed to achieve

gauge

— Two size US 6 (4mm) circular

needles, 16" (40 cm) (for Cloth 6

only)

— Size US 6 (4mm) double-pointed

needles for I-Cord (optional)

— Stitch marker

gAuge20 sts and 40 rows (20 garter ridges) =

4" (10 cm) over garter st (knit every row),

after blocking.

noTeSWorking 2 rows in garter stitch (knit every

row) creates 1 ridge.

The cast-on row is considered a WS

row, and it forms a garter ridge (the first

garter ridge that you will count) on the

RS. The next row is a RS row; place a

safety pin to mark the RS of the piece.

Picking up stitches along the edge of

garter stitch: Pick up 1 stitch in the end

of each garter ridge, not in the running

stitch between garter ridges.

Use long-tail cast-on method.

Yarn color changes are not indicated.

Change colors for patches as desired, or

consult the photographs for reference.

Cut yarn at the end of each patch only if

changing color on next patch.

10 | | 11

CLOTH 2: COURTHOUSE STEPS

PATch 1 (cenTeR PATch)CO 12 sts. Work garter st (knit every row) until you have 12 garter ridges on the RS, including ridge made by CO row. BO on the RS, leaving the last st on the needle.

PATch 2 — With RS facing, position the left

edge of the center patch at the top. Pick up and knit 12 sts (1 st in each garter ridge)—13 sts.

— Next Row (WS): Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—12 sts rem.

— Work until you have 12 garter ridges on the RS. BO all sts on the RS.

PATch 3 — With RS facing, position right edge

of center patch at top. Pick up and knit 12 sts along this edge.

— Work until you have 12 garter ridges on the RS. BO on the RS, leaving the last st on the needle.

CLOTH 1: CLASSIC LOG CABIN

PATch 1 (cenTeR PATch)CO 12 sts. Work in garter st (knit every row) until you have 12 garter ridges on RS, including ridge made by CO row. BO on RS, leaving the last st on the needle.

PATch 2 — With RS facing, position the left edge

of the center patch at the top. Pick up and knit 12 sts (1 st in each garter ridge) along this edge—13 sts.



PATch 3 — With RS facing, position the CO edge of

the center patch at the top. Pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in each garter ridge of the previous patch and 1 st in each CO st)—25 sts.



1

5

4

2

3

cast on

bind o�

bind o�

bind o�

bind o�

bind

o�

4 sts and 4 garter ridges

pick up sts along edge of piece

1

5

4

2

3

cast on

bind o�

bind o�

bind o�

bin

d o

�

bin

d o

�



PATch 4 — With RS facing, position the right

edge of the center patch at the top. Pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in each garter ridge of the previous patch and 1 st in each garter ridge of the right edge of the center patch)—25 sts.



PATch 5 — With RS facing, position the BO

edge of the center patch at the top. Pick up and knit 36 sts (1 st in each garter ridge of the previous patch, 1 st in each st of the BO edge of the center patch and 1 st in each garter ridge of the second patch)—37 sts.



Cloth 1: Classic Log Cabin

12 | | 13

CLOTH 3: L-SHAPE

PATch 1CO 20 sts. Work in garter st (knit every row) until you have 20 garter ridges on the RS, including ridge made by CO row. BO on the RS, leaving the last st on the needle.


edge of the first patch at the top. Pick up and knit 20 sts (1 st in each garter ridge)—21 sts.



PATch 3 — With RS facing, position the CO

edge of the first patch at the top. Pick up and knit 36 sts (1 st in each garter ridge of the previous patch and 1 st in each CO st of the first patch)—37 sts.



Courthouse Steps

1

5

4

23

cast on

bind o

bind o

bind o

bind o

bind

o



Courthouse Steps

1

5

4

23

cast on

bind o

bind o

bind o

bind o

bind

o



L-Shape

1

2

3

bind o�

bind

o�


cast on

bind o�


PATch 4 — With RS facing, position the BO

edge of the center patch at the top. Pick up and knit 36 sts (1 st in each garter ridge of the previous patch, 1 st in each st of the BO edge of the center patch, and 1 st in each garter ridge of the other patch)—37 sts.



PATch 5 — With RS facing, position CO edge of

center patch at the top. Pick up and knit 36 sts (1 st in each garter ridge of Patch 2, 1 st in each CO st of the center patch, and 1 st in each garter ridge of the other patch).


L-Shape

1

2

3

bind o�

bind

o�


cast on

bind o�


Cloth 2: Courthouse Steps

Cloth 3: L-Shape

14 | | 15

CLOTH 4: U-SHAPE

PATch 1CO 12 sts. Work in garter st (knit every row) until you have 24 garter ridges on the RS, including ridge made by CO row. BO on RS, leaving the last st on the needle.


edge of the first patch at the top. Pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in each garter ridge)—25 sts.



PATch 3 — With RS facing, position the CO

edge of the first patch at the top. Pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in each garter ridge of the previous patch and 1 st in each CO st)—25 sts.



U-Shape

1

4

2

3

cast on

bind o�

bind o�

bind o�

bind

o�



PATch 4 — With RS facing, position the right

edge of the first patch at the top. Pick up and knit 36 sts (1 st in each garter ridge of the previous patch and 1 st in each garter ridge of the first patch)—37 sts.



Cloth 4: U-Shape

1

5

4

2

3

cast on

bind o�

bind o�

bind o�

bin

d o

�

bin

d o

�



16 | | 17

CLOTH 5: NINEPATCH WITH MITERS

PATcheS 1, 2, And 3note: Patches 1, 2, and 3 are knit in a continuous strip.

— Patch 1: CO 12 sts. Work in garter st (knit every row) until you have 12 garter ridges on the RS, including ridge made by CO row. Do not BO.

— Patch 2: Work until you have 12 garter ridges on the RS from beg of Patch 2 (24 garter ridges from CO edge). Do not BO.

— Patch 3: Work until you have 12 garter ridges on the RS from beg of Patch 3 (36 garter ridges from CO edge). BO all sts on the RS.

PATcheS 4 And 5

— Patch 4: With RS facing, position the CO edge of the first patch at the left. Pick up and knit 12 sts along one side of Patch 2 (1 st in each garter ridge). Work until you have 12 garter ridges on the RS. BO all sts on the RS.

— Patch 5: Work as for Patch 4 on the opposite edge of Patch 2. You now have a piece of knitting that is in the shape of a cross.

PATcheS 6, 7, 8, And 9 — Patch 6: With RS facing, and

working in the corner of the cross formed by Patches 3 and 4, pick up and knit 12 sts (1 st in each garter ridge) along one side of the corner (Patch 3), pm, then pick up and knit 12 sts (1 st in each garter ridge) along other side of the corner (Patch 4).

— Next Row (WS): Knit. — Knit a miter into this corner as

follows:

Ninepatch with

1 9

54

8

7

2

3

6

cast on

bind o�

bind o�

bind

o�

color change only; continue kni�ing


decrease sts at center of block


Ninepatch with

1 9

54

8

7

2

3

6

cast on

bind o�

bind o�

bind

o�

color change only; continue kni�ing


decrease sts at center of block


Cloth 5: Ninepatch with Miters

Row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to end—2 sts dec. Row 2: Knit.

— Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 4 sts rem, ending with Row 1.

— Next Row (WS): Knit, removing marker.

— Next Row: Ssk, k2tog—2 sts rem. — Next Row (WS): K2tog and fasten off

rem st. — Patches 7, 8, and 9: Rep Patch 6

in the rem 3 corners of the cross.

18 | | 19

CLOTH 6: 3-NEEDLE BIND-OFF

PATch 1CO 16 sts. Work in garter st (knit every row) until you have 16 garter ridges on the RS. BO all sts on the RS.

PATch 2CO 20 sts. Work in garter st until you have 16 garter ridges on the RS. BO all sts on the RS. PATch 3CO 20 sts. Work in garter st until you have 36 garter ridges on the RS. BO all sts on the RS.

Join Patches 1 and 2 — With RS facing and using circular

needle, pick up and knit 1 st in each garter ridge along right edge of Patch 1—16 sts. Cut yarn.

— With RS facing and using circular needle, pick up and knit 1 st in each garter ridge along the left edge of Patch 2—16 sts. Cut yarn.

Arrange the 2 blocks with the WS of the blocks facing each other. Slide the sts to the same end of the needles, with the

working yarn at that end. Now using 3-Needle BO, BO both edges tog as follows: Insert a third needle into the front of the first st on each of the 2 needles, knit 1 through both sts, *insert the needle into the front of the next st on each of the 2 needles, knit 1 through both sts, BO 1 st; rep from * until all sts are BO. Cut yarn. Join Patch 3

— With RS facing and using circular needle, pick up and knit 1 st in each garter ridge on the right edge of Patch 3—36 sts. Cut yarn.

— With RS facing and using circular needle, pick up and knit 1 st in each st along the CO edges of joined Patches 1 and 2—36 sts. Cut yarn.

— Use 3-Needle BO to join as for Patches 1 and 2 above.

APPlied i-coRd edging

note: If you prefer, you may use waste yarn to CO the 3 I-Cord sts, then graft these sts to the rem 3 sts at the end of the edging.

Using straight needles, CO 3 sts (use waste yarn if planning to graft the i-cord tog at the end) and hold this needle in your right

hand, with tip pointing to left and working yarn at left. With RS facing, and using second needle in left hand, pick up (but do not knit) 1 st from right-hand end of one edge of cloth (inserting needle into st from left to right so needle tip is pointing to right). Transfer CO sts from right-hand to left-hand needle. *Drawing yarn across back of knitting, k2, k2tog-tbl (last CO st tog with picked-up st); with left-hand needle pick up (but do not knit) next st along edge of cloth, transfer sts from right-hand back to left-hand needle; rep from * to end of edge. To turn corner, [drawing yarn across back of knitting, k3; transfer sts back to left-hand needle] twice. Rep this process along rem 3 sides of cloth, ending with 2 unattached rounds to turn the final corner. BO rem 3 sts, then sew BO edge to CO edge. If the i-cord was CO in waste yarn, undo the CO and graft the i-cord ends tog.

3-Needle Bind-O�

1 2

3

cast on cast on

bind o�bind o�

bind

o�

pick up sts along 2 edges, then bind o� using 3-needle bind-o�


cast on

Cloth 6: 3-Needle Bind-Off

3-Needle Bind-O�

1 2

3

cast on cast on

bind o�bind o�

bind

o�

pick up sts along 2 edges, then bind o� using 3-needle bind-o�


cast on

20 | | 21

CHAWNE KIMBER

Hero of Improvisation

Chawne Kimber is a college professor of mathe-matics and a virtuoso quilter, embroiderer, crocheter, and knitter. But foremost, Chawne is an artist whose

medium is needlework. Much of her work, knitting included, is improvised, and log cabin figures prominently in her arsenal of construction methods. We go to Chawne’s blog, Completely Cauchy, for many things: inspiration, artistry, workmanship, color, humor, storytelling, and to be rocked back on our heels by the blunt truth and power of her writing. We return again and again to Chawne’s galleries of finished works, some of which pack a strong emo-tional punch, and all of which are imaginative, original, and technically masterful. It’s a joy to see her sit down with a batch of yarn she likes and watch what she comes up with.

In Annist0n (2014)

22 | | 23

We are grateful Chawne agreed to lend us two of her quilts for this Field Guide, as they are very much in the spirit of what log cabin—in quilting or knitting—is all about.

Without being too pushy about it, we urge you—we beg you —to visit Chawne’s blog. In addition to the mind-blowing beauty you will find there, you will enjoy a rare opportunity to witness an artistic mind at work.

Facing: In Wedowee (2014); Above: In Anniston (2014)

24 | | 25

NINEPATCH BLANKET

Let’s face it: Quilters have been improvising with blocks of color for longer than knitters have been doing it. And, as convenient as it might be for us knitters if we could

translate a quilt we love into knitting by copying it patch by patch, the reality is that we can’t actually copy a quilt. Knitting is not the same as quilting. The materials, tools, and techniques are related, but the results are markedly different. This log cabin blanket was inspired by a quilt we saw online that, at first glance, looked like a random patchwork; however, on closer inspection, it showed itself to be an unconventional setting of an old quilt block called “ninepatch.” In quilting, a ninepatch is formed by sewing together three strips of three square patches, conventionally with light and dark colors creating a cross in the center. But in the quilt that inspired us, the colors were arranged so that the underlying ninepatch construction was almost hidden, quietly revealed only in a repetition of color in the center block.

How do you knit a ninepatch? There are at least two ways and probably many more. To add an element of texture and fun to our blanket, we used log cabin construction to create a cross shape with the first five of the block’s nine patches, then knit mitered squares into the four remaining corners. How closely does our Ninepatch Blanket resemble the original we loved? Not very! It’s a new thing, based on an old thing. It’s the essence of the log cabin enterprise.

26 | | 27

kniTTed meASuRemenTS — Block A: 24" wide × 24" long

[61 cm × 61 cm], after blocking

— Block B: 12" wide × 12" long

[30.5 cm × 30.5 cm], after blocking

— Block C: 6" wide × 6" long

[15 cm × 15 cm], after blocking

— Blanket: 48" wide × 42" long

[122 cm × 106.5 cm], after

blocking

mATeRiAlS — Ultra Alpaca by Berroco [3.5 oz

(100 g) skeins, each approx 215 yds

(198 m), 50% alpaca / 50% wool]

Warm Colorway (page 24)

A: Stonewashed Mix, 2 skeins

B: Denim Mix, 2 skeins

C: Grapefruit Mix, 2 skeins

D: Chianti, 2 skeins

E: Tea Rose, 2 skeins

F: Dijon, 2 skeins

G: Mahogany Mix, 1 skein

H: Winter White, 2 skeins

Cool Colorway (pages 34-35)

A: Moonshadow, 2 skeins

B: Twilight Blue, 2 skeins

C: Barley, 2 skeins

D: Candy Floss Mix, 2 skeins

E: Cobalt Mix, 2 skeins

F: Tea Rose, 2 skeins

G: Lobster Mix, 1 skein

H: Winter White, 2 skeins

— Two size US 6 (4 mm) circular

needles, 40" (100 cm) long or

longer, or size needed to achieve

gauge

— Size US 6 (4 mm) short, straight

needles or double-pointed needles

for i-cord

— Stitch marker

— Safety pins

gAuge20 sts and 40 rows (20 garter ridges) =

4" (10 cm) over garter st (knit every row),

after blocking.

noTeSEach ninepatch block is constructed in

the same manner as the cloth on page

17. The only difference between Blocks

A, B, and C is the number of stitches

and ridges in each of the 9 patches of

the block. For Block A, each patch is 40

stitches wide × 40 ridges long; for Block

B, each patch is 20 stitches × 20 ridges;

for Block C, each patch is 10 stitches ×

10 ridges.

The written instructions do not state

which color to use for each patch. The

color of each patch is noted on the color

schematic on page 32. If using different

colors, assign each color a letter from

A to H, using the color schematic as a

reference.

Although the blocks can be knitted in

any order, we recommend knitting them

in decreasing order of size, from largest

(Block A) to smallest (Block C).

Working 2 rows in garter stitch (knit every

row) creates 1 ridge.

The cast-on row is considered a WS

row, and it forms a garter ridge (the first

garter ridge that you will count) on the

RS. The next row is a RS row; place a

safety pin to mark the RS of the piece.

BLOCKSnotes: Instructions are given for Block A, with the number of sts and garter ridges for Blocks B and C in parentheses. Cut yarn when changing colors.


— Patch 1: Using the long-tail method, CO 40 (20, 10) sts. Work these sts in garter st (knit every row) until you have 40 (20, 10) garter ridges on the RS, including ridge made by CO row. Do not BO.

— Patch 2: Work in garter st until you have 40 (20, 10) garter ridges on the RS from beg of Patch 2 [80 (40, 20) garter ridges from CO edge]. Do not BO.

— Patch 3: Work in garter st until you have 40 (20, 10) garter ridges on RS from beg of Patch 3 [120 (60, 30) garter ridges from CO edge]. BO all sts on RS.

PATcheS 4 And 5 — Patch 4: With RS facing, orient the

piece so that the CO edge of the first patch is now at the left. Pick up and knit 40 (20, 10) sts along one side

28 | | 29

of Patch 2 (1 st in each garter ridge). Work until you have 40 (20, 10) garter ridges on the RS. BO all sts on the RS.

— Patch 5: Work as for Patch 4 on the opposite edge of Patch 2.

— You now have a piece of knitting that is in the shape of a cross.

PATcheS 6, 7, 8, And 9 — Patch 6: With RS facing, and

working in the corner of the cross formed by Patches 3 and 4, pick up and knit 40 (20, 10) sts (1 st in each garter ridge) along one side of the corner (Patch 3), pm, then pick up and knit 40 (20, 10) sts (1 st in each garter ridge) along the other side of the corner (Patch 4).

— Next Row (WS): Knit. — Knit a miter into this corner as

follows: Row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to end—2 sts dec. Row 2: Knit.

— Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 4 sts rem, ending with Row 1.

— Next Row (WS): Knit, removing marker.

— Next Row: Ssk, k2tog—2 sts rem.

— Next Row (WS): K2tog and fasten off rem st.

— Patches 7, 8, and 9: Repeat Patch 6 in the rem 3 corners of the cross.

BLANKETKnit the following numbers of each block, using the color schematic to determine the color of each patch:

— Block A: 2 — Block B: 4 — Block C: 8

note: To make it easier to join the blocks in the correct order later, use a safety pin and small piece of paper to label each finished block with a number, from left to right for each strip. For example, the left Block A is 1 and the right Block A is 2 (see Assembly Diagram). Pin the label in the upper right corner of the block so that the blocks can be oriented correctly when joined. ASSemBlY Join the blocks into 3 horizontal strips, as shown on Assembly Diagram.

Assembly DiagramBlock C(make 8)

Block B(make 4)

Block A(make 2)

1

#

2 3 4 7 85 6

1 2 3 4

1 2

Pin a piece of paper with the number indicated above to the upper right corner of each completed ninepatch block; you will assemble blocks into strips in numerical order within each block row from le� to right, working A blocks, then B blocks, then C blocks.

ASSEMBLY DIAGRAM

30 | | 31

COLOR SCHEMATIC

32 | | 33

Joining BlockS — With RS facing and using E, pick

up and knit 1 st in each garter ridge or BO st along an edge of one of the blocks to be joined. Cut yarn. (See note below on optional no-cut joinder method that reduces yarn ends to be woven in later.)

— With RS facing, pick up and knit 1 st in each of garter ridge or BO st along an edge of the next block to be joined.

— Arrange the 2 blocks with the RSs of the blocks facing each other. Slide the sts to the same end of the needles, with the working yarn at that end. Now using 3-Needle BO,

BO both edges tog as follows: Insert a third needle into the front of the first st on each of the 2 needles, knit 1 through both sts, *insert the needle into the front of the next st on each of the 2 needles, knit 1 through both sts, BO 1 st; rep from * until all sts are BO. Cut yarn.

— Using this method, join the 3 horizontal strips of blocks.

Optional No-Cut Joinder Method: When picking up sts to join blocks or strips, reduce the number of ends to be woven in later by not cutting the yarn before starting to pick up along the edge of the second piece.

— Leave a half-inch gap in the yarn, use a second circular needle, and pick up with the RS of the second piece facing. Then, fold the 2 pieces tog (bending at the half-inch gap) with the RS of each piece facing the other and arrange the sts as instructed. It’s a little fiddly, but it saves weaving in 2 ends for each block and strip.

Joining STRiPS

— Use the Assembly Diagram as a guide to how the edge of each strip is to be joined to the strip above it.

— With RS facing and using E, pick up and knit 240 sts along the edges to be joined on each horizontal strip.

— Arrange sts of 2 strips, with RS facing, as when joining blocks, and BO using same 3-Needle BO method.

— Weave in all ends.

APPlied i-coRd edgingnote: If you prefer, you may use waste yarn to CO the 3 i-cord sts, then graft these sts to the rem 3 sts at the end of the edging.

Using H and straight needles or dpns, CO 3 sts and hold this needle in your right hand, with tip pointing to the left and working yarn at left. With RS facing and using a second straight needle or dpn in left hand, pick up (but do not knit) 1 st from any st (or garter ridge) on edge of blanket (inserting needle into st from left to right so that the needle tip is pointing to the right). Transfer CO sts from right-hand needle to left-hand needle. *Drawing yarn across back of knitting, k2, k2tog-tbl (last CO st tog with picked-up st); with left-hand needle pick up (but do not knit) next st along edge of blanket, transfer sts from right-hand needle back to left-hand needle; rep from * around entire blanket, turning corners as follows: [Drawing yarn across back of knitting, k3; transfer sts back to left-hand needle] twice. This will ease the i-cord around the corners, helping them to lie flat.

When you get back to beg of i-cord, BO and join the beg and end of the i-cord with a few sts with your tapestry needle. If the i-cord was CO in waste yarn, undo the CO and graft the i-cord ends tog.

34 | | 35

36 | | 37

When is a log cabin not a log cabin? We wanted to play with the idea of log cabin in a new way. We also wanted to knit something that was not a blanket or a

washcloth, but something we could wear. Getting away from garter stitch creates challenges in log cabin improvisation. Garter stitch is “square.” Each stitch of garter stitch is equal to two rows, or one garter ridge. This means that when you stick to garter stitch, you can easily knit something that stays square, simply by keeping the number of stitches and ridges equal across the piece. But sometimes we don’t care if the piece stays square, or we want it to be not-square, as in the case of a rectangular wrap or scarf.

Ann Weaver has made log cabin one of her signatures as a knitwear designer. You see it in her popular Albers Cowl and Albers Shawl, both based on Josef Albers’s Homage to the Square paintings, and in her Rothko Sweater. With the Sommerfeld Shawl, Weaver turned once again to art for inspiration. This transparent, lacy design was inspired by the windows Albers designed in the early 1920s for the Sommerfeld Residence in Berlin, a collaborative Bauhaus project.

When Ann Weaver is not traveling to teach knitting workshops, she lives in Baltimore, where she works as a freelance editor and writer and spends her free time volunteering and working to bring change to her community. You can follow Ann on Instagram and find her designs on Ravelry, where her username is weaverknits.

SOMMERFELDSHAWL

Design by

Ann Weaver

38 | | 39

kniTTed meASuRemenTSWidth: Approx 24" (61 cm)

Length: 70" (178 cm)

mATeRiAlS — Loft by Neighborhood Fiber Co.

[1 oz skeins, each approx 350 yds

(320 m), 60% mohair / 40% silk]

Citron Colorway (page 38)

A: Thomas Circle, 1 skein

B: Penn North, 1 skein

C: Mt. Vernon, 1 skein

D: Belair, 1 skein

Red/Pink Colorway (page 2)

A: Shaw, 1 skein

B: Gwynn Oak, 1 skein

C: Mondawmin, 1 skein

D: Eastern Market, 1 skein

Gray/Brown Colorway (page 2)

A: Druid Hill, 1 skein

B: Charles Centre, 1 skein

C: Federal Hill, 1 skein

D: Patterson Park, 1 skein

Blue/Green Colorway (page 2)

A: Rock Creek Park, 1 skein

B: Rosemont, 1 skein

C: Old Towne East, 1 skein

D: Canton, 1 skein

— Size US 9 (5.5 mm) circular needle,

32" (80 cm) long or longer, or size

needed to achieve gauge

— Size US 11 (8 mm) circular needle,

any length, or 3 sizes larger than size

needed to achieve gauge (for BO)

— Removable stitch markers

gAuge16 sts and 32 rows (16 garter ridges) = 4"

(10 cm) over garter stitch (knit every row),

lightly blocked.

noTeS — The cast-on row is considered a WS

row, and it forms a garter ridge (the

first garter ridge that you will count)

on the RS. The next row is a RS row;

place a safety pin to mark the RS.

— Working 2 rows in garter stitch

creates 1 garter ridge. Since Feather

and Fan is worked over a background

of garter stitch, 2 rows of Feather and

Fan also create 1 garter ridge.

— Picking up stitches along the edge

of garter stitch: Pick up 1 stitch in the

end of each garter ridge, not in the

running stitch between garter ridges.

— Use larger needle to bind off stitches

to keep bound-off edges loose. Even

using the larger needle, the edges

will be tighter than the body of the

Shawl. This is intentional and helps

the Shawl retain its shape and size.

SHAWLBLOCK 1: NINEPATCH


— Patch 1: Using the knitted CO method, smaller needle, and A, CO 20 sts. Work these sts in garter st (knit every row) until you have 20 garter ridges on the RS, including ridge made by CO row. Do not BO.

— Patch 2: Using B, work in garter st until you have 20 garter ridges on the RS from beg of Patch 2 (40 garter ridges from CO edge). Do not BO.

— Patch 3: Using C, work in garter st until you have 20 garter ridges on the RS from beg of Patch 3 (60 garter ridges from CO edge).

— *Using larger needle, BO on the RS, leaving the last st on the needle.


— With RS facing, position the left edge of the first strip (Patches 1, 2, and 3) at the top. Using C, pick up and knit sts along the long side of the strip as follows:

— Pick up and knit 20 sts along edge of first patch (1 st in each garter ridge), pm; pick up and knit 20 sts along edge of second patch, pm; pick up and knit 20 sts along edge of third patch; turn work and using knitted CO, CO 1 st, pm, then CO 19 more sts—80 sts.

— Join newly CO sts to picked-up edge sts as follows: Row 1: Knit to first marker, sm, skp (last CO st tog with 1 picked-up edge st), turn. Row 2: Sl 1, knit to end.

— Work [Rows 1 and 2] 18 times, then work Row 1 once more; you should have reached the first marker on the picked-up sts.

— Cut C and join D. — **Work Row 2. Work [Rows 1 and

2] 19 times, then work Row 1 once more; you should have reached the second marker on the picked-up sts.**

— Cut D and join A. — Rep from ** to ** once.*


— Working along the left edge of the

| 41

second strip, rep from * to * using A for the BO, pick-ups, CO, and first patch, C for the second patch, and B for the third patch.

— Using larger needle, BO on the RS, leaving the last st on the needle. Cut B.

BLOCK 2: VERTICAL STRIPES

— With RS facing, position the left edge of Block 1 at the top. Using C, pick up and knit 60 sts (1 st in each garter ridge) along this edge.

— Work in garter st until you have 10 garter ridges on the RS.

— Cut C and join D. Work in garter st until you have 3 garter ridges in D on the RS.

— Cut D and join C. Work in garter st until you have 3 garter ridges in C on the RS.

— Using larger needle, BO all sts.

BLOCK 3: HORIZONTAL FEATHER AND FAN AND SHORT-ROW

— With RS facing, using smaller needle and A, pick up and knit 76 sts (1 st in each st along south side of Ninepatch Block and 1 st in each

garter ridge along south side of Vertical Stripes Block).

— Knit 1 row. — Work Feather and Fan pattern as

follows: Row 1 (RS): K2, [k2tog] 3 times, *[yo, k1] 6 times, [k2tog] 6 times; rep from * 2 more times, [yo, k1] 6 times, [k2tog] 3 times, k2. Rows 2–6: Knit.

— Rep [Rows 1–6] 6 more times. — Cut A and join D. — Work in garter st until you have 3

garter ridges in D on the RS. — Work short rows as follows.

note: Except where indicated, place a removable marker on each wrapped st for all short-row sections. Short Row 1 (RS): K64, w&t. Short Row 2 and All WS Rows: Knit to end. Short Row 3: Knit to 2 sts before wrapped st, w&t. Short Rows 5, 7, and 9: Knit to 8 sts before wrapped st, w&t. Short Rows 11, 13, 15, and 17: Knit to 2 sts before wrapped st, w&t. Short Row 18: Knit to end.

— Cut D and join C. — Continue working short rows as

follows:

Sommerfeld Shawl

NORTH

SOUTH

EASTWEST

Notes 1 Arrows indicate direction of

work, and their location indicates where the beginning of the �rst RS row will be.

2 The narrow-dashed lines in Block 1 indicate the color changes between blocks; the wide-dashed lines separate the 3 strips of blocks. You will pick up sts along the wide-dashed lines.

3 The directions north, south, east, and west are used to indicate the edge along which to pick up sts.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

42 | | 43

— Rep Short Rows 8 and 9 until all markers are removed.

— Knit 3 rows. — Using larger needle, BO all sts.

BLOCK 5: HORIZONTAL GARTER STITCH

— With RS facing, using smaller needle and D, pick up and knit 1 st in each st of BO edge of Block 3, and 1 st in each garter ridge along south side of Block 4.

— Work these sts in garter st until you have 29 garter ridges on the RS.


BLOCK 6: HORIZONTAL SHORT-ROW

— With RS facing, using smaller needle and C, pick up and knit 1 st in each garter ridge along north side of Blocks 4 and 2, and 1 st in each st along north side of Block 1.


— Work short rows as follows. note: Except where indicated, place a removable marker on each wrapped st for all short-row sections. Short Row 1 (RS): K40, w&t. Short Row 2: K35, w&t.

Short Rows 3–7: Knit to 5 sts before wrapped st, w&t. Short Row 8: Knit to end.

— Cut C and join B. — Knit 6 rows (3 garter ridges on the RS). — Cut B and join C. — Work short rows as follows:

Short Rows 1, 3, and 5 (RS): Knit to 1 st past first marker (removing marker), w&t. Short Rows 2, 4, and 6: Knit to end. Short Row 7: Knit across all sts. Short Rows 8, 10, and 12: Knit to 1 st past first marker (removing marker), w&t (do not place marker on this st). Short Rows 9, 11, and 13: Knit to end. Short Row 14: Knit across all sts, removing last marker.

— Knit 12 rows (6 garter ridges on the RS).


BLOCK 7: VERTICAL FEATHER AND FAN

— With RS facing, using smaller needle and B, pick up and knit 1 st in each garter ridge along east side of Block 5, 1 st in each st of BO edge of Block 4, and 1 st in each garter ridge along east side of Block 6.

— Knit 3 rows.

Row 19 (RS): Knit across all sts, leaving removable markers in place. Don’t work wraps tog with wrapped sts. Short Row 20: Knit to 1 st past first marker (removing marker), w&t. Short Row 21: Knit to end.


— Knit 28 rows (14 garter ridges on RS). — Work short rows as follows:

Short Row 1 (RS): K58, w&t. Short Row 2 and All WS Rows: Knit to end. Short Rows 3, 5, 7, and 9: Knit to 10 sts before wrapped st, w&t. Short Row 10: Knit to end.

— Cut C and join B. — Continue working short rows as

follows: — Row 11 (RS): Knit across all sts, leaving

removable markers in place. Don’t work wraps tog with wrapped sts. Short Row 12: Knit to 1 st past first marker (removing marker), w&t (do not place marker on this st). Short Row 13: Knit to end.


— Knit 26 rows (13 garter ridges on RS). — Using larger needle, BO all sts.

BLOCK 4: VERTICAL SHORT-ROW

— With RS facing, using smaller needle and B, pick up and knit 1 st in each garter ridge along east side of Block 3, and 1 st in each BO st of Block 2.


— Cut B and join A. — Knit 5 rows. — Work short rows as follows.

Note: Except where indicated, place a removable marker on each wrapped st for all short-row sections. Short Row 1 (WS): K106, w&t. Short Row 2 and All RS Rows: Knit to end. Short Rows 3 and 5: Knit to 20 sts before wrapped st, w&t. Short Row 6: Knit.

— Cut A and join D. — Continue working short rows as

follows: Row 7 (WS): Knit across all sts, leaving removable markers in place. Don’t work wraps tog with wrapped sts. Short Row 8: Knit to 1 st past first marker (removing marker), w&t (do not place marker on this st). Short Row 9: Knit to end.

44 | | 45

— Work Feather and Fan pattern once as follows: Row 1 (RS): [K2tog] 3 times, *[yo, k1] 6 times, [k2tog] 6 times; rep from * 7 more times, [yo, k1] 6 times, [k2tog] 3 times, knit to end. Rows 2–6: Knit.


BLOCK 8: HORIZONTAL FEATHER AND FAN AND GARTER STITCH

— With RS facing, using smaller needle and D, pick up and knit 1 st in each garter ridge along north side of Block 7 and 1 st in each st of BO edge of Block 6.

— Knit 3 rows. — Work Feather and Fan pattern as

follows: Row 1 (RS): [K2tog] 3 times, *[yo, k1] 6 times, [k2tog] 6 times; rep from * 3 more times, [yo, k1] 6 times, [k2tog] 3 times, knit to end. Rows 2–6: Knit.

— Rep [Rows 1–6] 8 more times. — Cut D and join A. — Work in garter st until you have 16

garter ridges in A on the RS. — Using larger needle, BO all sts.

BLOCK 9: VERTICAL GARTER STITCH

— With RS facing, using smaller needle and C, pick up and knit 1 st in each garter ridge or 1 st for each BO st along west side of Blocks 8, 6, 1, 3, and 5.

— Work in garter st until you have 3 garter ridges on the RS.


FINISHINGWeave in ends. Wet block to measurements by spreading out the shawl using your hands. Use pins to hold down any edges that are curling.

Sommerfeld Residence, Berlin, 1920-1921: Stained glass windows designed by Josef Albers

The curves and irregular shapes in Josef Albers’s Sommerfeld windows created a welcome challenge for designer Ann Weaver. They required her to work short rows, not typically associated with log cabin knitting, into her plans for the Sommerfeld Shawl.

46 | | 47

48 | | 49

Approx: ApproximatelyBeg: Begin(ning)(s)BO: Bind offCO: Cast onDec: Decreas(ed)(es)(ing)Dpn(s): Double-pointed needle(s)K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together.K: KnitPm: Place markerP: PurlRem: Remain(ing)(s)Rep: Repeat(ed)(ing)(s)Rnd(s): Round(s)RS: Right sideSkp: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit

1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over the knit stitch.

Sl: SlipSm: Slip markerSsk: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip 1

stitch purlwise, insert left needle into the front of these 2 stitches and knit them together from this position.

St(s): Stitch(es)Tbl: Through the back loop(s)Tog: TogetherWS: Wrong sideW&t: Wrap and turn. On a

knit row, move yarn to the front of work, slip next stitch, take yarn to the back of work, slip wrapped stitch to left needle. Turn work. On a purl row, move yarn to the back of work, slip next stitch, bring yarn to the front of work, slip wrapped stitch back to left needle, turn work.

Yo: Yarn over

ABBReviATionS ouR miSSion

Mason-Dixon Knitting serves knitters by creating an ever-evolving world online and in real life where knitting is celebrated, explored, and taught. It is a place of rich community, creativity, curiosity, and humor—the ultimate rabbit hole for knitters.

Please visit us online where you will surely find stories, inspiration, a laugh, and great conversations in The Lounge, our forum. And you can shop. We bring in only the yarns we want to knit with, the patterns we want to explore. While supplies last, you’ll definitely find the yarn for all the projects in this MDK Field Guide.

Mason-Dixon Knitting Field Guide No. 4

Copyright © 2017 by Modern Knitting Media, llc

Photographs copyright © 2017 Sara Remington (unless otherwise noted)

Page 45: Sommerfeld Residence, Berlin, 1920-1921: Stained glass windows designed by Josef AlbersUnidentified ArtistHarvard Art Museums/Busch-Reisinger Museum, Gift of Walter Gropius, BRGA.8.5Photo: Imaging Department © President and Fellows of Harvard College

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. For information, write to us at [email protected].

The purchase of this book allows you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes. Items produced using the directions in this book are not licensed to be sold for profit.

editor/creative director: Melanie Falickgraphic designer: Will Bradyphotographer: Sara Remingtonphotostylist: Alessandra Mortolatechnical editor: Sue McCainsample Knitters: Patricia Brower, Julie Lindsey, Francie Owens

Printed in Canada.

ISBN: 978-0-9977865-3-8

50 |

Mason-Dixon Knitting Field Guides are little books that explore the big world of knitting, with patterns and stories to inspire the curious knitter.

FIELD GUIDE NO. 4

log cABin cloThS

ninePATch BlAnkeT

SommeRfeld ShAwl by Ann Weaver

Visit MasonDixonKnitting.com to be part of a vibrant online community— to laugh, to learn, to shop.

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