Lo5 waves,currents,coasts
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Transcript of Lo5 waves,currents,coasts
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Earth’s Atmosphere Earth’s Atmosphere and Oceansand Oceans
Currents, Waves and Currents, Waves and CoastlinesCoastlines
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Ocean Currents: Ocean Currents: the motions of oceans the motions of oceans (sorry, couldn’t resist the bad rhyme!)(sorry, couldn’t resist the bad rhyme!)
• Causes:Causes:– Tides – gravitational pull from moon and Tides – gravitational pull from moon and
sun causes predictable tidal currentssun causes predictable tidal currents
– Wind – Surface CurrentsWind – Surface Currents
– Thermohaline Circulation (density Thermohaline Circulation (density differences) = Deep Currentsdifferences) = Deep Currents
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Surface CurrentsSurface Currents
• Rotate due to CoriolisRotate due to Coriolis
• Create Gyres –circles of moving Create Gyres –circles of moving water within the oceanswater within the oceans– Clockwise – Northern HemisphereClockwise – Northern Hemisphere– Counterclockwise – Southern Counterclockwise – Southern
HemisphereHemisphere
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Gyres and Surface CurrentsGyres and Surface Currents
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UpwellingUpwelling
• formation of upwellingformation of upwelling
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What is upwelling?What is upwelling?
• Subsurface water rises to surfaceSubsurface water rises to surface
• Characteristics:Characteristics:– ColderColder– Rich in nutrientsRich in nutrients– Biologically productive = Good fishingBiologically productive = Good fishing
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Major Areas of UpwellingMajor Areas of Upwelling
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Global Conveyor beltGlobal Conveyor beltThermohaline Circulation Thermohaline Circulation BeginsBegins
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• Surface and Deep Ocean CurrentsSurface and Deep Ocean Currents
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Idealized “conveyor Idealized “conveyor belt” model of ocean belt” model of ocean circulationcirculation
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Ocean WavesOcean Waves• What makes big waves?What makes big waves?
– Wind – speed and durationWind – speed and duration– Fetch – distance that a wave has to growFetch – distance that a wave has to grow
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Breaking WavesBreaking Waves
• Friction between sea floor and waterFriction between sea floor and water
• Waves become too steepWaves become too steep
• Breakers formBreakers form
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The basic parts and The basic parts and movement of a non-movement of a non-breaking wavebreaking wave
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Changes that occur Changes that occur when a wave moves when a wave moves onto shoreonto shore
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Beach Beach Construction/DestructionConstruction/Destruction• Swash and Swash and
BackwashBackwash
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Wave refraction along Wave refraction along an irregular coastlinean irregular coastline
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Beach drift and Beach drift and longshore currentslongshore currents
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Example of Longshore Drift Example of Longshore Drift Shoreline ErosionShoreline Erosion
– Tucker Island Lighthouse, NJ, 1927Tucker Island Lighthouse, NJ, 1927
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Rip CurrentsRip Currents
• Rip CurrentsRip Currents
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Coastal Erosion CausesCoastal Erosion Causes
• Storm wavesStorm waves
• Long shore driftLong shore drift
• Storm surgeStorm surge
• Winter stormsWinter storms
• Human-Induced CausesHuman-Induced Causes
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Human-Induced Coastal Human-Induced Coastal ErosionErosion
• Removing vegetation and protective Removing vegetation and protective dunesdunes
• Building “protective” structuresBuilding “protective” structures
• River modification and dredgingRiver modification and dredging
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JettiesJetties
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Which direction is longshore Which direction is longshore drift?drift?
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Which direction is the longshore Which direction is the longshore drift?drift?
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SummerSummer – – The lower waves of summer build The lower waves of summer build sand onshore and widen the sand onshore and widen the beach.beach.
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WinterWinter - - Higher winter waves Higher winter waves move sand offshore and narrow move sand offshore and narrow the beach.the beach.
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Dune StabilizationDune Stabilization
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COASTAL EROSIONCOASTAL EROSION
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Marine TerracesMarine Terraces
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Sea archSea arch
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Sea stackSea stack
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Coastal DepositionCoastal Deposition
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SpitSpit
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Baymouth BarBaymouth Bar
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Aerial view of a spit Aerial view of a spit and baymouth bar and baymouth bar along the along the Massachusetts Massachusetts coastlinecoastline
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Barrier IslandsBarrier Islands
• Long, narrow islands paralleling Long, narrow islands paralleling shorelineshoreline
• Protected salt water bays behindProtected salt water bays behind
• Protect mainland Protect mainland
• Naturally transientNaturally transient
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Fire Island migrationFire Island migration
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Miami Beach before Miami Beach before beach nourishmentbeach nourishment
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Miami Beach after Miami Beach after beach nourishmentbeach nourishment
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EstuariesEstuaries
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Major Major estuaries estuaries along the along the East Coast East Coast of the of the United United StatesStates
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The EndThe End
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TomboloTombolo