Lizard Peninsula Heritage Trust

An environmental charity dedicated to the recognition, protection, enhancement and enjoyment of the Lizard Peninsula Friends of the Lizard 1997-2006 Newsletter No 45 October 2010 Registered Charity No 1092934

A Serendipitous Stroll

John and I had only recently been saying that we must take a trip to Frenchman’s Creek, when we checked up on the plans for the next LPHT walk and discovered, to our delight, that this was the chosen venue for Tuesday 3 August. An enthusiastic group of us met in Helford car park and followed our guides, Linda and Tim Hawkins, on a wonderful walk along one of the most beautiful parts of our Peninsula. Three pooches accompanied us, our Tilly leading the field for most of the day, in spite of our worries about her intermittent lameness, her bro Hintza bringing up the rear, and the manic but loveable Polly dashing hither and yon with occasional dives into the river to cool down. The rest of us found that the occasional rain-showers did the trick just as well. Our route led up the hill from the pub and along to Penarvon Cove, then to the US built roads and slipway where the troops practised for the D-day landings in Normandy. At the head of the creek stood a cottage, newly painted with a scary colour scheme which, had the GIs taken it with them, would have had the enemy in retreat from the moment they landed. From here, a permissive path (thus not marked on the maps) led us up the creek, as it were, to Frenchman’s Pill. I know what you are wondering: ’oo was zees man and what médication was ’e on? Despite ages spent on Google, I have no idea. Does any LPHT member know the origin of the names for the Creek and the Pill? Onwards and upwards we marched, reaching the amazing Kestle Barton, a recently restored farm complex with an extraordinary art gallery (copper fish and centipede mobiles – love ’em or hate ’em) and the most beautiful herb and flower garden, with throngs of apians going about their beesness. After a short rest here, we strode on, through Manaccan, then on to St Anthony beach for lunch. Sandwiches and bones were consumed with equal fervour, as people settled onto a thoughtfully placed monument (or, in Anne Bailey’s case, a disused sewer pipe) and dogs sank onto the sands. The main party was set to continue round St Denis Head in the afternoon and along the coast path back to Helford. However, John and I claimed doggy disability and, cutting off St Denis Head, poor chap, escaped with a 50 minute amble back along the lanes and footpaths. Never mind Tilly, I am not sure that we ourselves would have made it round the coast path; not having done any decent walks since last December, we were pretty unfit. But we so enjoyed this walk, as we always do with the LPHT gang. Plus, when we reached Helford car park, we found that the little café does excellent coffee. All in all, it was worth every minute of our aching limbs, and we look forward, as always, with eager anticipation to the next route march country ramble.

Jane Grierson

Events programme 2010-11 Tuesday 9 November 2010, 7.00 for 7.30pm LPHT Annual General Meeting

Meet: Mawgan Village Hall, near the War Memorial roundabout Guest speaker: Steve Townsend, Natural England

Invitation, Minutes & election papers are enclosed with this Newsletter

Voluntary financial contributions on the night, towards light finger buffet & drinks, would be appreciated. Please give this event your support, to hear about the past year and our plans for the future. Cancelled events

Unfortunately, Matt Robinson had to withdraw from the two events that he was due to lead on Wednesday 18 August. We received this news too late for the last Newsletter. Although I e-mailed or telephoned all of our regular events attendees, apologies if you turned up for either of these events and found no-one there. These cancellations highlight the benefit of notifying the Committee of your intention to go to an event, as recommended on the Events Programme. David Richardson

Membership renewals

Last year, for the first time, we achieved a 100% renewal of membership. For the current financial year, we are also nearly there, with just 9 subscriptions outstanding. If you are one of the nine, there should be a ‘last-reminder’ slip with this Newsletter, after which, regretfully, we would have to remove you from our membership. Please help us to achieve that magic 100% again !

The Gift Aid option significantly increases our income, without any extra cost to our Members, and without any intrusion into their tax affairs. We have been pleased with the response, but very many more could sign the form that would allow us to claim the extra from the Inland Revenue. You will notice that the renewals slip now includes a simple tick box for you to agree this facility.

A relaxed luncheon party at St Anthony

Planning Matters - Gweek Quay update In Newsletters 37 (October 2008), 39 (April 2009) and 41 (October 2110), I set out the evolving position regarding the disgraceful on-going saga of illegally tipped waste material into the Helford River by the Gweek Boatyard. The latter update concluded with the news that the deadline for the completion and submission of an Environmental Statement, demanded by The Planning Inspectorate as key evidence for the Planning Inquiry, had been extended yet again. At last, in September 2009, the Environmental Statement became available and, subsequently, the Public Inquiry date was set for 20 April 2010 and sat for six days. The Planning Inspector, appointed by the Secretary of State for Communities & Local Government, was Mr NP Freeman BA(Hons) Dip TP MRTPI DMS.

I attended the first day of the Inquiry, which was mainly procedural. After that, I was kept informed daily by Mark Jago, Chairman of the Gweek Protection Group, with whom the Lizard Trust has maintained close contact in the past 10 years. Throughout, the Inspector was rigorous, thorough and extremely professional. Mark's view was that the Inspector was equally irritated by the incompetence and prevarications by Clive Emerson on the one side and Cornwall Council (former Kerrier) officers, Elizabeth Dunstan (Legal) & Peter Blackshaw (Enforcement) on the other. This opinion was conveyed in a subsequent letter from the Gweek Protection Group to Cornwall Council’s Chief Executive; here is an extract, with permission from the GPG to reproduce:

“Our group, which has had the support of over fifty local residents and concerned people, has attempted to have the unauthorised works at the site managed effectively by Kerrier Council for over ten years. During that time, we have campaigned continuously, using all of the channels available to us. This included the involvement of the EC Environment Directorate which was concerned enough, regarding the sensitivity of the illegal development and the lack of any progress towards its resolution, that a complaint file was opened on two separate occasions. Kerrier Council as the LPA seemed to be incapable of taking any meaningful action to halt the planning breach and were severely criticised by the Local Government Ombudsman in his report on the matter.

The Inquiry commencing April 20th was a continuation of Kerrier’s complete inability to be professional or competent. Within the first hour it had to be admitted that, due to a clerical error, the most important aspect of their case for defending the Appeal was no longer available to them. Subsequently, the cross examination of their case proved it to be little short of painful. The evidence given by Mr Blackshaw was so poor that it was hard to believe that he was the team leader of the enforcement department and should have been well acquainted with facing a planning inquiry. He was hesitant, slow to respond, had extremely thin evidence and employed the body language of someone very unsure of himself. To say it was painful to watch is an understatement. This lack of professionalism was complemented by the legal department who were proved to have been completely incompetent regarding care over the issuing of important notices, that were consistently in error. This was a far from satisfactory Inquiry because of Kerrier Council. They continued to exhibit their lack of care regarding the case, as they had over the whole history of the development during the twelve year period in which they were involved as the Local Planning Authority."

Here are a few key dates in this saga:

Early 1998: Dredging and tipping of dredged material begins, followed by import and tipping of builder’s rubble and other materials.

22 April 1998: Environment Agency visits site to investigate tipping of material.

30 April 1998: Council tells boatyard owner that planning permission is required for the tipping.

7 March 2002: DEFRA successfully prosecutes the boatyard owner under the Food & Environment Protection Act, 1985, for unauthorised tipping.

15 October 2002: Local Government Ombudsman’s extremely critical report on Kerrier’s maladministration.

19 December 2005: Kerrier DC resolves to issue an Enforcement Notice requiring removal of the tipped material.

10 May 2007: Kerrier DC actually issues the Enforcement Notice.

21 June 2007: The Enforcement Notice came into effect.

21 December 2009: Deadline for complete removal of tipped material.

The Enforcement Notice was suspended when the boatyard appealed against the refusal of an application for a Certificate of Lawfulness.

28 May 2008: Deadline for submission of Environmental Statement by the boatyard.

25 June 2008: Local Planning Inquiry date – cancelled, due to lack of Environmental Statement.

31 October 2008: Extended deadline for submission of Environmental Statement.

1 April 2009: Further extended deadline for submission of Environmental Statement.

31 July 2009: Yet further extended deadline for submission of Environmental Statement.

September 2009: Environmental Statement available for inspection at former Kerrier offices.

November 2009: The Planning Inspectorate’s provisional date for the Local Planning Inquiry.

20 April 2010: Inquiry opened at The Guildhall, Helston.

15 July 2010: The Planning Inspectorate’s decision letter.

In the Secretary of State’s decision letter and report, the Boatyard and Emerson have lost on all issues considered by the Inquiry: 1 The issue as a planning matter was out of time - lost;

2 The Enforcement Notice, requiring full removal of tipped waste, was defective - lost, but Order slightly varied;

3 That Planning Permission for the 'development' should be granted - lost;

4 That costs should be awarded against the Planning Authority - lost.

Tragically, less than 24 hours after receiving notification that his Appeals had failed, Mr Emerson was rushed by air ambulance to Royal Cornwall Hospital and was declared dead on arrival, after suffering what proved to be a fatal heart attack at his home in Truro. Although the Lizard Trust and the Gweek Protection Group vigorously opposed his various illegal developments at the Boatyard, it is sad to think that the Planning Inspectorate’s decisions, all against him, may have precipitated or contributed to his demise.

The future is currently unclear. An Enforcement Order, having exhausted all grounds for appeal, becomes permanently attached to the land against which it has been issued and not to the perpetrator of the planning breach. Any prospective owner would normally be required to pay the Council’s removal costs or undertake to carry out the work before opening for business. However, we fear that evasion or dilution of the requirements of the Enforcement Order are currently being considered, so this saga still has a long way to go.

David Richardson

A Fit of Historics – the first of two recent walks

Thursday 16 September, and our usual select band of eLePHanT strollers was even more select than usual, late withdrawals reducing our number to only four plus our archaeological guide, James Gossip, from Cornwall Council. However, small is beautiful, and so, with four well-behaved dogs boosting the numbers, we set out in fine form to follow James on an amble from Coverack to Lowland Point and St Keverne. Did you know that there used to be pill boxes in Coverack? Not a lot of people do know that, and even fewer are aware of the boxes’ location – we certainly couldn’t see them! There are not many trees either, but the area has the largest collection of “Tre’s” in Cornwall, dating from before the Norman conquest. Then from Lowland Point up to Roskilly’s there is the best preserved system of ancient co-axial fields in the country. These irregular shaped little meadows date from about 1500-1200 BC and weave their way along the lines of the natural topography. In addition there are remnants of iron-age hut circles, built any time from 500 BC up to the time of the Romans gate-crashing our society.

Lowland Point is pretty well known for its ancient salt works (2nd century AD) where the vestiges of one remaining hut sit precariously on the edge of the shore. All along this coast, the sea is slowly inching its way inland, and even the stiles which were crossable a few years ago are now about to tumble onto the beach; the sensible walker uses gaps in the walls a few yards further inland. Our next field trip is likely to be a photographic one to record the evidence before it is washed away forever.

A pause in our learning curve ensued when we found a conveniently sited picnic bench at the entrance to Dean’s quarry. Since it seemed that Dean had stopped quarrying, for now if not forever, we stopped for an enjoyable lunch. Then began the

long, steep ascent up to Trythance and Tregellast Barton, where we showed great willpower in not succumbing to a cream tea! Roskilly’s Pond Fields bear witness to an in-triguing story from olden times, when the Long Meadow Gang operated a smuggling system from contraband landed at Godrevy Cove, stored in Long Meadow (the pond fields) and shipped out again through Main Dale.

We shipped ourselves along a similar course, wending our way back to Coverack through peaceful pastures, shady woodlands and quiet footpaths, and guess what we found? Ruins of little old cottages in the woods. Even James had not known of these, and we all had a lovely time poking around and wondering who used to live there and how. In fact, so fascinating was the subject, that we have decided it needs further research and an article of its own. (So see the ‘Guilly’ article next page.)

Jane Grierson Gmaps Pedometer total distance 4.6 miles

Annual BBQ – Pipers Green, 24 July 2010

In typically British, or should I say Cornish, spirit members of the LPHT met at Piper’s Green (home of Anne Roberts) for the annual BBQ in rather damp, mizzly weather. However, spirits were high and Geoff and Colin had both made pre-trips with BBQ equipment, while some of the fairer sex (of course) busied themselves in the kitchen. The sun shone metaphorically and the gathering was underway with lots of sparkling conversation and amusing incidents. The BBQs were soon smoking away (‘take care where you sit Avril – better check the wind first!’ ) and the gorgeous smell of Retallack’s meat wafted across the seated guests, with glasses of wine in hand. All ready – ah ‘Just a minute the quiches were still in Ann’s fridge’ – so Colin popped home (well, drove) and rescued the situation – not that anyone would be going hungry with the fabulous array of food. The menu included salmon, succulent chicken, juicy burgers, charred but tasty sausages and quiches supplemented by very many different salads. ‘Use Local’ was the order of the day, with home-grown produce provided by Gill and Brenda and eggs from Colin and Ann’s hens. All this was followed by sumptuous summer pudding, pavlova, fresh fruit salad and cheeses. The mizzle got a little worse and we retired to Anne’s comfortable lounge for coffee and mints where the quiz was - guess which brand of mints? The conversation flowed with diverse subjects such as gardening, septic tanks, waste fat, supermarkets and the behaviour of B&B guests, which in itself could be another story. Our wonderful host then treated us to a piano recital with music from Over the Rainbow, for example. Alas the peace and contentment was thrown into disarray with the shout of “Fire” from Geoff (our resident pyromaniac) who luckily had returned outside – he had put the unused charcoal under the BBQ and we were now heading for a second round with flames and smoke coming from the bag. Luckily, Tony was on hand with his stick and water nearby quenched the fire – just a charred bag of charcoal – ready for next time? With the merry band now breaking up, everyone helped with the clearing up including Honey (Anne’s dog who had looked so longingly at the sausages) and now tasted some of the left over morsels. As we all left, Honey excitedly got ready for a walk and everyone headed off reminiscing on the successful and enjoyable event. All that remains is to reiterate David’s words of grateful thanks to the host and other helpers.

Lynda Blackman

The walk took us to Lowland Point and on past Dean Quarry

Congratulations to our Assistant Secretary, Prue Towner, for winning the cups for best floral exhibit and most points in floral art at the recent Coverack Horticultural Show .

A Fit of Historics - the second walk

Less than a week after our walk from Coverack, and we were gathered again, this time at Ruan Minor, ready for Lizzie Cartwright to lead us to Cadgwith where we joined the coast path towards Lizard Point. Setting off at a cracking pace, we reached Bass Point in a couple of hours, stopping off at Kilcobben to view the new lifeboat stations works. Pretty amazing stuff, but for £6 million, I suppose it should be! It was a lovely sunny day, with just enough cooling breeze, and the combination of sea views and wildlife was a feast for the eyes: goldfinches, sedge warblers, choughs, red admirals and speckled wood butterflies, to name but the few I could identify, plus flora galore.

At the Lizard Marconi Wireless Station we enjoyed a fascinating talk and morse code demonstrations from the National Trust guide, before settling down to a picnic lunch in a sheltered spot outside. Fortified, the party set off again via Housel Bay to a doughnut tea at the ever-popular Polpeor Café at The Lizard. We then followed a cross country route back to Ruan, including the fascinating hedgebank-top path from Trethvas to Gwavas Farms, and on to St Ruan’s Well. This is always an enjoyable route, but it was highlighted at this time by vivid splashes of yellow along the edges of the path, glorious Corn Marigolds. These were once so common that whole fields were covered in them, but pesticides put paid to most of them. Perhaps, now that farmers are more aware of the environment, the flowers are staging a comeback. Let’s hope so. Thank you, Lizzie, for a very enjoyable day.

Jane Grierson Gmaps Pedometer total distance 7.1 miles.

The New Lifeboat station‘s slipway under construction

Guilly, St Keverne

On the James Gossip escorted walk, reported on previous page by Jane Grierson, I was particularly keen to steer the group past some ruined walls on the return to Coverack from Boscarnon, at OS ref SW 785 195. James confirmed that they were of interest and undertook to investigate what was in the County records. He reported back:

“I’ve found what little we have on the deserted settlement. It is shown on the 1809 1st Ed 1”:1 mile map but with little detail. It is then shown and named on the 1880 OS map, with three buildings to the south of the track and one to the north. By 1907, only three very simple buildings to the south are shown. Others to the north are not shown on either, but may be present on the 1840 Tithe Map, and the settlement is surrounded by a wonderful example of the ancient field system. The 1861 census has Guilly occupied by Henry and Peggy Polkinhorne (aged 45 and 47), farming 15 acres. Looking at it on the ground, I would have thought that it was once a larger settlement, shrunken down to a childless farming couple by the middle of the 19th century. In fact the 1880 seems to suggest that the track leading to it from the north had all but disappeared by this time.

“Since it is recorded in 1312 and abandoned in the early 20th century there’s every chance that at least some of what remains today is medieval in date. I’ve now looked at the Tithe map which shows Guilly in pretty much the same form as in 1880. We know from Census returns that at least some of the few buildings were domestic – other than that it seems to be a fairly normal small farmstead – at least during the 19th century. The 1840 Tithe apportionments have the owner listed as John Polkinhorne (also the main occupant in 1841 and 1851) and Hannah Roberts, while occupied by John Pascoe and John Mitchell. While their absence from the Census could be explained as them being tenant farmers of the surrounding fields (Tithe numbers 1559 – Little Town Field; 1595 – Mowhay Field; 1593 – The Moor; 1594 –Cliff Field etc), it’s odd that the enclosure around the farm buildings, 1560, Mowhay and Garden is occupied by John Pascoe. He’s probably doing a bit of sub-letting with the agreement of the owner. The Tithe lists call the settlement ‘Gillytregod’, while it is just ‘Guilly’ on the map; a not unusual quirk of early cartography.

“The HBSMR listing gives: The settlement of Guilly is first recorded in 1312. The name is Cornish and contains the element cell, 'grove, small wood'. Guilly is not named on the modern OS Mastermap 2007 and all that is recorded are the walls to the derelict buildings.”

We may use ‘Polkinhorne’, with its variations (Polkinhorn, Polkinghorn, Polkenhorne etc) to start a series of Newsletter items on Cornish surnames. Please let us know of any other Cornish surnames for possible research.

David Richardson

Roadside Heritage Assets survey

Following the successful ‘Training day’ with Jane Powning (Cornwall Council), reported in the last Newsletter, our survey of the Lizard Peninsula’s roadside heritage assets has now started. As a trial run, on Jane’s advice, we have restricted the number of Parish Council areas initially, so that we can iron out any problems that may arise. We already have some volunteers for Mullion, Manaccan and St Keverne, but not so far for Cury. If you are interested in helping in Cury, please let me know. Members may be surprised to hear that we expect to find a very large number of eligible items, so extra volunteers will be required for all parishes to share the work. Volunteers will receive maps at a scale of 1:10,000, a schedule of items already known from a Cornwall Council desk-study (that will still need to be checked and recorded), plus site survey sheets and guidance notes.

David Richardson

Published by Lizard Peninsula Heritage Trust, Bodlowen, Coverack 01326 280058 E-mail: d813richardson@btinternet.com Web site: www.lizardpeninsulaheritagetrust.org.uk

President … John Grierson

Chairman David Richardson Bodlowen, Coverack, Helston TR12 6TP 01326 280058

Vice Chairman Colin Chapman Chy Lean, Mawgan, Helston TR12 6AY 01326 221648

Secretary David Richardson Bodlowen, Coverack, Helston TR12 6TP 01326 280058

Treasurer Geoff Blackman ‘Chy-an-Mordhu’, 5 Park Enskellaw, Mullion TR12 7JG 01326 241722

Committee Avril Evens Tresaddern House, Ruan Minor, Helston TR12 7NA 01326 290629

Committee Ann Chapman Chy Lean, Mawgan, Helston TR12 6AY 01326 221648

Committee Gill Richardson Bodlowen, Coverack, Helston TR12 6TP 01326 280058

Committee Anne Roberts Pipers Green, Garras, Helston TR12 6LP 01326 221243

Assistant Secretary Prue Towner Cracklewood, 10 Doctors Hill, St Keverne TR12 6UX 01326 281230

Co-opted Member Lynda Blackman ‘Chy-an-Mordhu’, 5 Park Enskellaw, Mullion TR12 7JG 01326 241722

The tap root of the founder of Bray & Co goes down into the granite, soil and families here on the beautiful Lizard Peninsula, a very long way, having traced his family tree back in this unique part of Cornwall, for four hundred years!

This local independent firm of estate agents was founded by FJH Bray. Howard was born, bred and lived all of his working life in the village of St Keverne. He served an apprenticeship of five years as a carpenter and joiner and, after completing National Service in 1962, soon set up his own carpentry and undertaking business, which grew successfully, employing several men and forming a Ltd building company. After many years of the ‘hands-on nature’ of physical work, which can be a hazard in the building trade, back problems became a constant concern, resulting in Howard reluctantly closing this firm. However, with a deep unshakeable love of this area, he quickly knew what he wanted to do. Having at one time built 15 bungalows in St Keverne for a London development company and personally sold each one of them, the ‘bug’ of selling properties had been hatched and the die was cast.

With his sound knowledge of buildings, the love of the locality and the ease of getting on with people, in 1982 Howard cautiously set up ‘Properties For Sale’ (the sign he still has!), not being arrogant enough to call himself an ‘Estate Agent’! His ‘office’ was an 8’x6’ timber shed in his back garden. By this time, because of his previous business connections with houses and being a local person who was well known and trusted on the Peninsula, people were soon asking him to sell their properties. The first two years came and went much better than he could have hoped for. Now with a little more confidence, he rented a small two-roomed lean-to building in Commercial Road in St Keverne, and managed to get it changed by the

District Council into office status. He was soon building up a good reputation as an ‘Estate Agent’. This he believes was because of his local knowledge, plus his in-depth knowledge of the construction of properties and a willingness to give honest sound advice on those properties that he had for sale. Sales were flowing and he quickly cornered this part of the Peninsula.

Five years further on, he purchased and changed the use of the property which overlooks St Keverne Square, where ESTATE AGENTS BRAY & CO still operates today. In 1995, Howard was asked by the late Mr Peter Williams if he would be willing to sell him the business. This was agreed and, on the first Wednesday in August of that year, Peter Williams became the owner of Bray & Co. He soon expanded, keeping the reputable name of Bray & Co, by opening another office in Meneage Street, Helston. Both offices are now in the capable hands of Tracey Harry, another local person whose family roots also go very deep into this special part of the British Isles. I wish her the same success and happiness that Bray & Co and clients gave to me over all those early pioneering years. Howard Bray

Local Businesses - The Birth of Estate Agents BRAY & CO. Continuing our series of articles on businesses on the Lizard Peninsula, with particular reference to those that are unusual or have an interesting story, here Howard Bray tells how he came to start his local estate agency:

Bray & Co, in the corner of the Square, St Keverne

Howard Bray with his original sign!