Linen Introduction

Manufacture

Physical Properties

Chemical Properties

Uses

INTRODUCTION

Linen is a cellulosic fibres derived from the stem of the flax plant

or linum usitatissimum which is one of the oldest cultivated plant

In human history.

Fragments of straw, seeds, fibres, yarns, and various types of

fabrics dating to about 8000 BC have been found in Swiss

lake dwellings.

Flax is an annual plant, which means it only lives for one

growing season.

From seed-planting, it is ready to be harvested in about a

hundred days. Unless the weather is particularly warm and dry,

flax requires little watering or attention during this time.

It grows to about three or four feet tall, with glossy bluish-green

leaves and pale blue flowers--though on rare occasions,

the flowers bloom red.

Flax is grown in many parts of the world, but top quality flax is

primarily grown in Western European countries and Ukraine.

In very recent years bulk linen production has moved to Eastern

Europe and China.

Linen market in India is spread over southern most part. Kochi

is the centre of the production of Linen.

Composition of linen is as follows :-

Cellulose : 92%

Hemi Cellulose : 2%

Lignin : 4%

Others : 2%

Cellulose is the principle element of Linen.

Structure of Hemi Cellulose.

MANUFACTURE

Harvesting Flax Fibre

Retting Scutching

SpinningWeaving

Separating the Flax Fibre

The xylem and phloem of plants are bundled together by

calcium ions and a sticky protein called pectin, which must

be broken down in order to separate the valuable bast fibres

from the plant’s vasculature so that they can be processed

and spun into yarn.

This is achieved via a process called Retting.

Retting

Water retting is the most widely-employed practice and

produces the highest quality fibres.

It is best accomplished in stagnant or slowly-moving waters,

like ponds, bogs and streams. As a rule, the more stagnant

the water source, the more abundant the bacterial fauna and

the faster the retting process.

The bundles are steeped in water at least 60 cm to 100 cm depth.

The retting process is completed in 8 to 30 days, days, when the

barks separate out easily from the stick or wood and the fibres

are ready for extraction.

Dew retting is the preferred method in areas where water

sources are limited but that enjoy warm daytime temperatures

and heavy night time dews.

Flax stalks are spread out evenly in a grassy field, where

the combination of air, sun, and dew causes fermentation which

dissolves much of the stem within 2-3 weeks.

Flax can also be retted chemically, which speeds up the process.

It is, however, more harmful to both the environment and the

fibres themselves, and is therefore not preferred.

Scutching

Dressing of Flax is carried out by the process called Scutching.

Scutching involves scraping a small wooden knife down

the length of the fibres as they hang vertically, pulling the

broken woody bits away from the fibre.

The separated bast fibres are next heckled, or combed through

a bed of nails that splits and polishes the fibres, and removes the

shorter tow fibres from the mix.

These tow fibres can then be spun

into a coarse yarn from which

low-quality linen products are made.

Spinning

The separated flax fibres, called stricks, are traditionally spun by

hand using a Distaff.

A distaff is simply a long vertical pole that attaches to a spinning

wheel from which the fibres are hung. This helps keep the fibres

organized and prevents them from turning into a tangled mess.

Spinning involves twisting together the drawn out strands of fibre

to form yarns, then winding the yarn onto a Bobbin, or spool.

Bobbin

Weaving

Linen yarn is generally woven into sheets--a process wherein

multiple threads are interlaced both horizontally and vertically

on a loom.

Occasionally, linen yarn is also knit, or formed into fabric by

creating consecutive rows of loops that intertwine with one

another.

By virtue of these loops, knit fabrics have a degree of stretch

inherent in them, and because linen yarn has no elasticity, it is

quite difficult to knit and so more frequently woven.

Morphology of Linen

Cross section of Linen

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

Tensile Strength: Linen is a strong fibre. It has a tenacity of 5.5 to

6.5 gm/den. The strength is greater than cotton fibre.

Elongation at break: Linen does not stress easily. It has an elongation

at break of 2.7 to 3.5 %.

Colour: The colour of linen fibre is yellowish to grey.

Length: 18 to 30 inch in length.

Lustre: It is brighter than cotton fibre and it is slightly silky.

Elastic Recovery: Linen fibre has not enough elastic recovery

properties like cotton fibre.

Specific Gravity: Specific gravity of linen fibre is 1.50.

Moisture Regain (MR %): Standard moisture regain is 10 to 12%.

Resiliency: Very poor.

Effect of Heat: Linen has an excellent resistance to degradation

by heat. It is less affected than cotton fibre by the

heat.

Effect of Sun Light: Linen fibre is not affected by the sun light as

others fibre. It has enough ability to protect

sun light.

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES

Effect of Acids: Linen fibre is damaged by highly densified acids but

low dense acids does not affect if it is wash instantly

after application of acids.

Effects of Alkalis: Linen has an excellent resistance to alkalis. It does

not affected by the strong alkalis.

Effects of Bleaching Agents: Cool chlorine and hypo-chlorine

bleaching agent does not affect the

linen fibre properties.

Effect of Organic Solvent: Linen fibre has high resistance to normal

organic solvents.

Dyes: It is not suitable to dye. But it can be dye by direct and vat

dyes.

Effect of Micro Organism: Linen fibre is attacked by fungi and

bacteria. Mildews will feed on linen

fabric, rotting and weakling the materials.

Mildews and bacteria will flourish on linen

under hot and humid condition. They can

be protected by impregnation with certain

types of chemicals. Copper Nephthenate is

one of the chemical.

Effects of Insects: Linen fibre does not attacked by moth-grubs or

beetles.

USES

Apparel:

Dresses,

Suits,

Separates,

Skirts,

Jackets,

Pants,

Blouses,

Shirts,

Children's wear etc.

Linen is used as apparel material due to its comfort and tensile

strength.

Home Fashion :

Curtains,

Draperies,

Upholstery,

Bedspreads,

Table linens,

Sheets,

Dish towels etc.

Source of Information

Introduction and Manufacture – Report by Deck Towel

http://www.decktowel.com/pages/how-linen-is-made-from-flax-to-fabric

Properties and Uses - Textilelearner

http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/01/linen-fiber-characteristics-of-linen.html

Efforts by

Pranav KachhawahMeet Patel

Sy B.Tech Dyes