Lillevilla 80 300109 - loghouse.co.il

Lillevilla 803900 mm x 5650 mm

Terrace 1500 mmWall thickness 45 mm

1

45 mm x 135 mm

3900 mm x 5650 mm

28,7 m²

3130 mm

1690 x 1820 mm

1190 x 870 mm

2100 mm

Lillevilla 80 300109

Wall boards

Dimensions of pedestal

Area of roof

Height of ridge

1 glazed double door width x height

3 glazed windows width x height

Height of walls

Guarantee number:

Important! Keep this. Controlled by:

2

Dear summerhouse owner,

impossible to completely prevent some degree of warping, theformation of resin and cracks, especially on the outside surfaces

and is not actually a defect in the quality

Note!

Incidentally:

We wish you every success and lots of fun with the construction of your log cabin . . .Now you can get started...

Thank you for choosing a Luoman log cabin! Your cabin was manufactured with the greatest careand expertise from good quality, well-dried, fine-grained spruce/pine at our modern plant in Finland.

The material we use is purely natural, and being solid wood is vigorous and active. Despite technicaldrying methods it is, nonetheless,

The varying knot formations arealso typical of spruce/pine. These variations are all part of the beauty of wood.

Any rough edges and unevenness caused by the planer etc. on the back of the profiled planks andfloorboards is due to production techniques and

The timber we use (which is, of course, from sustainable forests) is absolutely untreated, except for the

Teknogrund treated parts. That means that the untreated wood will turn greyish over the years, something

which you might choose to avoid by applying a coat of stain(blue-stain inhibitor is recommended) or paint

– please, take notice of the recommendations of the varnish or paint manufacturer. It is not advisable to

paint the wall timbers before assembling them – this is best done when the cabin has been erected and the

weather is fine. However, if you wish to paint odd parts in different colours, this should be done before the

cabin is assembled.

Please check the content of the package before you start building your cabin and contact your dealerif something is missing or can not be used for the purpose. Claims are not accepted after the product hasbeen assembled.

adequate ventilation and avoiding waterlogging are still the best waysof protecting wood against rot.

.

.

®

PEFC/02-31-82

Please NOTE: Luoman Oy reserves all the rights to the photos, drawings, building instructions and other technical

information. Using or forwarding them to competitive purposes is forbidden and will be followed by legal

responsibility for the consequences.

Luoman Puutuote Oy has a Chain-of-Custody system, which is certified by DNV Certification Oy/Ab (www.dnv.com,

certificate 2149-2005-SMS-HEL-DNV). At www.luoman.fi we present the share of certified wood raw material in

your cabin. Our company is a holder of the PEFC logo license PEFC/02-31-82.


Dear Customer,in a case of reclamation, please inform your dealer about the specific guarantee number of yourcabin. You can find this number on the package and on the front page of this instruction manual.Unfortunately, without this guarantee number we cannot handle your reclamation!

3

1.

Front wall

15 log layers

15 log layers

Back wall

cut-out 35 mm

cut-out 75 mm


1.

4

16 log layers

16 log layers

Side walls


Foundations1.The key to stability, functionality and endurance is a good foundation for your summer house. Only

ensure a perfect fit for the timbers, the door and the window while

guaranteeing stability.

In the general drawing you will find the dimensions of your cabin to allow you to

prepare your footings - the 8+8 pedestal beams are laid crosswise; the 11 T1s, 1.50 m in length, are laid for the

veranda, the 2 T2s, 0.50 m in length, support the corner posts of the veranda's balustrade and the first

floorboard at the entrance. See showing how to place the foundation beams

for the cabin and the terrace.

absolutely level, strong footings

Flagstones or paving bricks on top of a (frost-free) bed of gravel are suitable, but frost-resisting

concrete (either over the whole area or in the form of piers) is also ideal as a base for the floor-joists (and

is also good for ventilation).

diagram 2 and detail drawing

Please read chapter 7 "Protection against gales" before preparing the

foundations.

Pre-sorting2.Pre-sorting - you don't need to worry about the number of parts when you open the package -

Please refer to for assistance. This shows all the parts belonging to the 4 walls and

gives you a guide to assembling the entire structure. The references on the drawing allow you to

according to their dimensions - all the parts are listed here

once more, together with their approximate measurements.

everything

becomes much easier once you have sorted the pieces into their appropriate categories!

diagram 1 and the part list

compare

them with the list of parts and allocate the parts

Important! Please check the content of the

packages with the part list and contact your dealer if something is missing or can not be used for the purpose.

5

2.

Nail the jointing boards J1as shown in diagram

J1J1

48x98


Erecting the walls + door and windows3.Arrange all the parts for each wall on either side

diagram 2.

diagram 1+8

First lock the bottom wall planks (2 full-width wall boardsA1 and B1 for the front and rear walls, and 2

half-width boards C1 and D1 for the side walls)

never bang the timbers

directly with the head of the mallet -

diagram 4

diagram 3

of the foundations, leaving 1-2 m working space.

Before you start assembling the walls, lay the 8+8 treated floor-joists (3.90+1,75m) crosswise and about the

same distance apart on top of the footings according to Nail the jointing boards to the floor-joists

as shown in the detail drawing. Even though the joists are treated it is a good idea to insert a layer of

bituminous felt or foil between the wall timbers and the joists to prevent rising dampness. Fix the floor-joists

to the foundations.

Please see for assembling the walls and the veranda.

A rubber mallet is of help everywhere in the assembly process. To avoid damage,

we have enclosed wooden blocks (marked with an "X") to be placed on

the planks for protection purposes - the ends of the timbers protruding at the corners require particular care, to

prevent the wood from splitting. However, if they happen to split or crack it has no negative constructional

effects and cracks can be glued later.

Clean the possible burrs caused by the drilling of the planks of the front and rear wall. That way the planks of

the walls will fit better in the grooves.

This "frame" shows the size of the cabin. At this stage it is important to make sure that the walls are exactly at

right angles to each other!

Screw or nail the first row of timbers to the pedestal beams at the corner joints (making sure to drill the holes

first). See . If you use screws, make sure that they will not lift the half-width boards off the

foundation beams.

Another point: the walls ought to

protrude 5-10 mm over the floor-

joists. This forms an overhang and

prevents waterlogging. Make

absolutely certain that there is an

adequate ledge on the inside to take

the floorboards. See .

Note: slot the floor-joist under the front and rear walls (for the threaded rods,

slots facing outwards).

that log has a cut-out for the door (see

drawing 1).

according to the picture 2b

together. Note A1

6

2b. Slotting the floor-joists for the threaded rods

1505050150

20 20


Continue erecting the walls, one layer of planks at a time, according to until the 3rd or 4th timber

has been reached. At this point, the frame of the double door has to be put together, paying attention to right

angles (hinges on the outside) - the 4 strips of beading are fastened by tenon and mortice and are easily joined

together (drill screw-holes first). Now insert the assembled frame carefully in the wall opening provided,

without jamming it. The bottom of the doorsill should be absolutely level with the base.

The walls ase assembled up to the 7th front timber. Now continue with the shorter planks A2 predrilled/ A4,

C3/C5 and D3/D5 and 2 planks later carefully insert the ready-assembled windows in their frames.

Window and door frame should not be fixed to the wall planks.

diagram 1

Note!

The gable triangles and the purlins

Attention

Please make sure to install the window right side up. If installed upside down, the window will fall when

opened.

MAKE SURE that the roof overhang is supported by the planks C4, C6, C7 / D4, D6, D7 - which get

progressively longer - so pay special attention to the diagram 1 for the construction of the side walls.

The front wall is completed by using the predrilled plankA5, which has a cut out for the double door.

Now it is time to assemble the gable triangles and the purlins. First lift the gable parts A6/B2 on their places

and then lift two of the purlins L1 on place.

. : Make sure that the gables stand straight and run parallel with

the front and rear walls. Purlins are to be put into position flush with the gable surface. The purlins have been

notched to fit properly with the gables. Fix by nailing the gables and the purlins together. After this, assemble

the gable parts A7/B3 and the next two purlins on their places and fasten with nails. Finally shall the gable

parts A8/B4 and the last purlin (ridge purlin) be fixed. Note that the ridge purlin and the other 4 purlins are

similar in appearance. Please be careful with the gables to prevent the ends from splittering.

Screw the wall timbers C7 and D7 to the gable parts using 2

screws/corner (predrill!). Picture 9

A6/B2

7Lillevilla 80 300109

9.

gable triangle

C7/D7

Important!4.

As we have already mentioned, it is technically impossible to produce absolutely inert material in the case of

wood, even with the most sophisticated production methods, since it is a purely natural material. Due to the

constantly changing temperatures and air moisture content during the course of the year, combined with rain,

wind and sunshine, wood will always shrink and swell alternately, as the pores absorb moisture and dry out

again.

The swelling and drying of the pores in the wood also leads to the "sinking" of the walls described above. This

is why the door and the window in their respective frames are inserted in the walls - this being the best

way to ensure that the wood's "activity" does not cause any damage to the structure.

As a general rule, this phenomenon will level out after one summer/winter season, so you can then screw the

frame to the lowest wall timber at two or three points if you wish to. However, there is no way of avoiding the

necessity of checking.You should in any case check the door and the window at regular intervals, especially at

the beginning and under extreme weather conditions, and adjusting them as required.

This should be done by adjusting the whole frame using gentle taps of the rubber mallet (please use wooden

blocks in between) or by tightening or loosening the hinges.

It is possible that the timbers may warp a little, but this has no influence on the stability and

functionality of the structure, nor can a slight warping of the solid wood door be avoided altogether in

view of the seasons.

loosely

8 Lillevilla 80 300109

The threaded rods (corner bolts)

Notice

chapter 7 "Protection against gales" diagram 7

Moreover!

the walls tend to lean outwards towards the top, when being erected - this is to be

expected

allowance above these fittings

Fix to the top of a threaded rod a washer and a nut. Pass the rods of the front and rear walls through the

predrilled holes of the upper planks until you reach the gable. Now fix the bottom of the rod with a washer and

a nut. : Ensure that the rod as well as the washer and the nut should not go beyond the fixing level of the

gable. That's why you have to sink the top of the rod and the washer+nut to the gable by making a hollow into

the gable. Please see also and .

You will notice that

. The structure is secured at the top by means of the plankA5 and the gables, the purlins and the roof-

boards. The rods are improving the strength of the construction.

You will notice that there is still a gap over the door and the windows. This gap is very important for a log cabin

structure - your summer house will "settle" (up to 3-4 cm) during the course of the different seasons and

varying weather conditions. To allow for this, there has to be some , otherwise

the house will " lift itselt apart". When the weather is wet, on the other hand, the wood swells slightly - this gap

is covered on the interior and the exterior by the enclosed facing panels, which are fixed to the frame (not to the

timbers!), so as not to hinder the wood's " activity". For this reason, you should also be careful, for example,

when putting up shelves, that the brackets are not screwed to several timbers, one above the other!

Floor5.The floorboards are tongued and grooved -

Begin laying the floorboards at the side wall - the groove of the first board to the

wall. Make sure that they lie flat on the joists of the front and rear wall. See Continue laying the

boards, one after the other. shows how to place the floorboards also of the veranda.

Here, the same applies with regard to the natural warping of the wood (particularly since it is close to the

dampness of the ground), so that a perfect fit cannot be guaranteed. Please make sure that the floorboards are

not laid too closely together - this can be achieved by adjusting the tongues and grooves of the last 5-10 boards

to allow the wood to swell in damp weather, without the risk of the floor arching upwards, as might happen if

the boards were a tight fit. If this causes a problem, you will need to cut the last floorboard.

Once the surface has been covered evenly, the floorboards are nailed securely to the floor-joists and the

skirting boards fixed all the way round.

the underside is recognisable because of its chamfers and 2

slots

Please note that, in the same way as the profiled boards for the roofing, the back of floorboards may

show some unevenness caused by the planer, which is quite normal in the timber manufacturing

process and no real defect.

diagram 3.

Diagram 3b

The skirting board is an attractive way of finishing off the

wall/floor junction.

.

9

3b


Now check again that the whole structure is perfectly square, that the door can be opened and closed properly

and that the gable follows the lines of the front and back wall (do not forget the rods.)- if all this is all right,

work can commence on the roof.

followed by the to form a firm surface (not too tight),

All the profiled boards should be nailed securely to the

walls, gables and purlins - please trim the last boards (for example, using a fretsaw) for a flush edging on the

outer rim of the purlin/roof edge.

The roof boards have slightly rounded corners in the front side and chamfers

and one groove in the back side. They are assembled the rounded side downwards and the side with the

chamfers and the groove upwards. Here again, any unevenness caused by the planer, rough edges etc.

even in the grooves and tongues, are due to well-tried production techniques and quite normal and not a

reason for reclamation.

Begin with the 2 profiled boards, with the groove pointing outwards, on the outer edge of the purlins/the

top edge of the roof C7 / D7; other profiled boards,

diagram 5. The entire roof should be checked for parallel eaves, a uniform overhang over the walls and

an even, firm support in the case of the purlins.

Afirm, durable anchoring of the roof is important for the stability of the

cabin as a whole!

Take care when you work!

Important!After nailing the roof boards they must be covered immediately!

Roofing6.

C8/D8

A10/B6

A9/B5

10

Start

Sawing

Finish


Attach the wide fascia boards C8/D8 flush with the roof - .

Then the work can begin on the roofing fabric. Cut sheets the length of the roof with exactly 90° corners and

start laying the roofing felt parallel to the eaves. Be sure to allow an overhang of 2-3 cm - this is the best way of

protecting the roof planks from dampness. See Start at the eaves and finish with a strip along the

apex. Then follow the wind shieldsA9/B5 and finally, the ends of the lengths of roofing fabric are fixed behind

the wind shields using the stripsA10/B6.

diagram 6

diagram 6a.

A10/B6

Protection against gales7.

Your 45 mm log cabin is extremely solid and stable - there is no doubt about that, but the burden on any house

caused by the force of gales must be considered.

For this reason, a stable, firm foundation - house - roof connection is all-important. To enhance the gale

recistance of your summer house, the Lillevilla 80 is equipped with a tension rod system. This is probably the

best and most stable solution that can be provided for log cabins.

To ensure this safety to the full at all times, you should regularly tighten the nuts of the tension rods, gently and

without force. In the damp months the wood is likely to swell - then loosen the nuts a little. This allows the

walls to "readjust" without being hindered by the threaded rods.

11Lillevilla 80 300109

In a view of the "sinking" described above, it is possible that the threaded rods touch the ground or the

foundations and could damage the roof when pushed upwards. Then simply saw a piece off the end with a

metal saw, so that they do not rest on the ground any more.

(please note that the drawing is not showing exactly the model Lillevilla

80). At very windy and stormy building places special care must be taken when fixing the cabin to the

foundation and when fixing the roof construction to the cabin. This might require some extra hardware, which

are not included in delivery.

Diagram 7

Note!

This has to be considered already when the

foundations are prepared.

Threaded rod Threaded rod

Washer and nut Washer and nut

Wall supports8.The wall supports shall be mounted to the front and rear walls. They are ment to give extra support for the long

walls of the cabin. There are three slits and one pre-drilled hole in each wall support. Screw the metal plates

(can be found from the accessories bag, see ) on the slits (2 screws/plate and 3 plates/support). Fit

the supports to the front and rear walls as shown in diagram. The lower end of the support may reach the floor

inside the cabin. Drill 13 mm holes through the wall boards in the top third of the slit on the support and fix

using enclosed bolts, washers and nuts . It is important not to tighten the nuts too firmly, to allow the structure

room to "settle". Fix the wall supports down firmly using remaining bolts and nuts.

diagram 7b

You can then cover the

wall supports with the help of the covering boards and nails.

12

7bBoltWasherMetal plate

Metal plateWasherNut

Wall support

Wall support

Wall timber

Drill 13 mm

Metal plate

16x57mm16x57mm

16x57mm

16 x

145m

m

16 x

145m

m

Covering boardsNail 45 mm


Erecting the veranda9.Now it is time to add the veranda. Begin by laying the 11, 1.50 m long foundation beams T14 according to

. These are pushed slightly under the front wall of the cabin - the depth of the veranda is determined

by the balustrade. indicates in detail how the veranda should be constructed. See the part list of the

veranda on the next page.

The 2 short foundation beams T15 are inserted under the corner posts leading to the entrance of the veranda, to

support the first floorboard.

The 2 half-width planks T5 are placed on top of the outer foundation beams - here too, please allow a slight

overhang and sufficient space on the inside to take the flooring of the veranda. Now lay the floorboards T16/1

and T16/2 (see ), and arrange them prior to nailing them, so that they are evenly spaced (

. The final floorboard T17 protrudes slightly at the front between

the corner posts - please make sure that this board is well and firmly supported by the foundation beams.

The floorboard next to the house shall be screwed in place to be removed when checking the tension rod

system of the house.

The corner posts are screwed to the footings using metal brackets as well - then lay the T9 + T10 veranda

planks as the two U-profile strips T11 to finish the right and left-hand sides of the entrance.

Finally, attach the balustrade to the cabin using the 4 T12 connecting planks. The remaining smooth-edged

timbers T18/1 and T18/2 are nailed to the foundation beam by way of an optical facing - please ensure that the

whole of the base is well ventilated. This is still the best protection against rot.

diagram 2

Diagram 8

diagram 3b there

should be a gap of about 1 cm between them)

13

8.


14

List of parts for terrace


Part Dimension in mm. Pieces Mark Control

Wall timber 45 x 135 x 930 4 T1

Wall timber 45 x 135 x 375 8 T2Wall timber 45 x 135 x 250 8 T3Wall timber 45 x 135 x 930 2 T4Wall timber, half-width 45 x 67 x 1500 2 T5

Wall timber 45 x 135 x 1500 4 T6Wall timber, half-width 45 x 65 x 375 2 T7Wall timber, half-width 45 x 65 x 250 2 T8Balustrade 34 x 145 x 970 2 T9

Balustrade 34 x 145 x 1500 2 T10U-profile 34 x 65 x 640 2 T11Connecting plank 16 x 145 x 650 4 T12

Metal brackets 2 T13Foundation beams 48 x 98 x 1500 11 T14Foundation beams 48 x 98 x 500 2 T15Floorboards 21 x 95 x 3778 14 T16/1

Floorboards 21 x 95 x 1780 14 T16/2Floorboard 21 x 95 x 3990 1 T17Facing plank 21 x 95 x 3210 1 T18/1Facing plank 21 x 95 x 2430 1 T18/2

15

Completion and preserving + treating woodwork10.

Once you have completed the window and door fittings, fix the facing panels to the frames to cover the slits

above the windows inside and outside the cabin. We stress the importance of mounting them on the framework

and not on the wall timbers, to allow the structure room to "settle".

Please note that we have designed the windows with removable crossbars, to make cleaning the window or

painting the frame easier. Care should be taken when removing and replacing the window cross, since it is a

tight fit.

Regular visual checks help to avoid damage before it occurs. Please remember that fitting adjustments to the

different parts are an unavoidable part of the care programme.

We wish you a lot of pleasure from your Lillevilla 80.

We reserve the right to amend the technical specification.

Treatment and painting must be done twice immediately after building up the house. It’s very important to use

treatment fluid including protection against moulding and blue stain (please ask further advise from the seller

of the treatment fluid). Follow the instructions of the producer of the treatment fluid. The best result will be

achieved in dry circumstances when the temperature is over +5 ºC. Doors and windows must be treated from

both sides. The building needs to be treated also with protection against blue stain and moulding (specially the

corners). Treatments both in and outside must be renewed regularly following the instructions of the producer

of the protective liquid. Follow carefully the condition of the South side wall, because ultraviolet radiation

effects more to it than to the other walls.

In despite of the treatment, moisture can get in from corners, knots, splits and joints of the parts. If needed, you

can prohibit this with silicon, for example.

Note that split knots of light log houses can let protection material flow and make tracks to the other side.

Water absorbs to the wood construction easiest through the heads of the timber (ends of logs and fascia

boards). So treat these points with great care and often enough. Also other timber parts being under heavy

strain of weather and wear (fascia boards, wind covering boards, parapets and facing planks of the terrace)

should be treated quite often, yearly if necessary.

It is recommended to install

venthole gratings (not included) at the top of gable triangles to let extra moisture out.

It is very important to make sure the ventilation works, also under the house.


Part Dimension in mm. Pieces Mark Control

Foundation timber 48 x 98 x 3900 8

Foundation timber 48 x 98 x 1750 8Jointing board 21 x 95 x 400 14 J1Floor boards 18 x 87 x 3805 65Skirting board, running meters 20 x 30 19 m

Purlin 66 x 225 x 4590 5 L1Roof boards 17 x 87 x 3120 106Double door, type D 1690 x 1820 1Door frame parts 4

Window, type D 1190 x 870 3Facing panel above window, outside 20 x 95 x 1300 3Facing panel above window, inside 20 x 95 x 1250 3

Threaded rods 2200 mm 4Roof felt 14 m x 1, 10 m x 2 3Wall support 45 x 120 x 2600 4 F1Covering board for wall support 16 x 145 x 2600 4

Covering board for wall support 16 x 57 x 2600 8Screws, nails etc. 1Wooden blocks for assembly 45 x 65 x 250 2Front wall A

Wall timber, cut out for door below 75 mm,predrilled

45 x 135 x 5850 1 A1

Wall timber, predri lled 45 x 135 x 623 20 A2Wall timber, predri lled 45 x 135 x 3527 6 A3

Wall timber 45 x 135 x 1709 7 A4Wall timber, cut out for door above 35 mm,predrilled

45 x 135 x 5850 1 A5

Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 314 x 5560 1 A6Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 449 x 3928 1 A7Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 555 x 2272 1 A8Wind shield 16 x 145 x 3170 2 A9

Strips for roof felt 16 x 95 x 3170 2 A10Rear wall BWall timber, predri lled 45 x 135 x 5850 15 B1Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 314 x 5560 1 B2

Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 449 x 3928 1 B3Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 555 x 2272 1 B4Wind shield 16 x 145 x 3170 2 B5

Strips for roof felt 16 x 95 x 3170 2 B6Side walls C and DWall timber, half-width 45 x 67 x 4100 1+1 C1, D1Wall timber 45 x 135 x 4100 6+6 C2, D2

Wall timber 45 x 135 x 623 6+6 C3, D3Wall timber 45 x 135 x 753 1+1 C4, D4Wall timber 45 x 135 x 2282 7+7 C5, D5Wall timber 45 x 135 x 4360 1+1 C6, D6

Wall timber 45 x 135 x 4590 1+1 C7, D7Fascia board 16 x 95 x 4590 1+1 C8, D8

List of parts11.

16

All measurement approximately.We reserve the right to make changes.


Lillevilla 8045 mm

Lillevilla 80 300109 - loghouse.co.il

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