Light Electric Vehicle One Passenger 14mph 21

http://www.instructables.com/id/Light-Electric-Vehicle-One-Passenger-14mph-21/

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Light Electric Vehicle: One-Passenger @ 15mph, 210# Curb Weightby shastalore on May 8, 2009

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Light Electric Vehicle: One-Passenger @ 15mph, 210# Curb Weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: Light Electric Vehicle: One-Passenger @ 15mph, 210# Curb Weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: Unorthodox Treatment for High Rate Sealed Lead Acid Batteries: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 2: PowerCheq Electronic Battery String Equalizers Increase the Mileage of the Battery Pack By 75 Percent! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 3: 24V 40AH LifePO4 Battery Pack! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Step 4: Modifying the rake angle of the original HCF-305: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

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Author:shastalore Light Electric VehicleBachelor of Science DegreeIndustrial ArtsAppalachian State UniversityRecession has dried up my field (commercial printing & packaging), but have found new work in staging, lighting, sound systems, sets, productions andevents.

Intro: Light Electric Vehicle: One-Passenger @ 15mph, 210# Curb WeightI designed and built this fun and successful light electric vehicle several years ago. I'm just now posting it on "Instructables" and will add more steps, detailing theconstruction, in the next few weeks.

Use the link to my webspace, for the details, for the time being:

www.home.earthlink.net/~hcf-305userforum

I decided to build an electric vehicle from off-the-shelf components, using existing technology. The goal was to define auto transportation, down to the basic motor vehicleerrand: One passenger plus a sizeable payload, to and from destinations of up to 5-10 miles away, rapidly, all at an affordable price.

And electric mobility scooters, unlike most electric automobiles, seemed to already be on the right track -they just needed to run faster. And, after checking the mobilityscooters on the market, the HCF-305 seemed uniquely suited for the project. It actually ran so fast that it got the manufacturer in trouble and the medical mobility vendorsquickly unloaded their HCF-305 inventories. And I knew that this vehicle would be perfect for the task.

I began to modify the HCF-305, by first installing an ultralight aircraft seat and harness for comfort, stability, and protection, and then building up the body around it.

This homemade vehicle is classified as a "Light Electric Vehicle": A new breed of efficient, lean-and-mean machines that weigh little more than the passenger(s). TheLight Electric Vehicle is powered transportation distilled to its essence.

The issue with most electric vehicles these days is that they often weigh in at 2,500 pounds or more. And such a vehicle has the daunting obstacle of simply transportingitself, which is, at best, a losing battle.

Another uncomfortable truth is that full size electric vehicles put a strain on the local electric power grid: Most communities do not have the electric power infrastructure,specifically, neighborhood power lines and transformers, to properly charge more than one or two full size electric vehicles per neighborhood.

Now, I have 3,000 miles (360 charge cycles) logged on this vehicle. Everywhere I drive this odd duck people approach me, wanting to buy one. I politely tell them that Iwould starve if I made these things for a living.

This project is not unlike my radio control model aircraft: It's a true labor of love -that requires a considerable amount of research and tinkering to keep everything runningsmoothly. But the casual bystander only sees a cute, reliable vehicle that quickly and effortlessly runs errands all over town. And it would be a quite a stretch to assumethat this vehicle is anywhere near ready for the mass market.

Like many members in my local Electric Automobile Association, I see my electric vehicle as a toy and a joy, and certainly not yet a viable substitute for an internalcombustion engine vehicle.

But we try.


Step 1: Unorthodox Treatment for High Rate Sealed Lead Acid Batteries:After quickly burning out two OEM 24 Volt 40 Amp battery packs, after only 50 miles each, I've installed and had excellent results with a different replacement set ofbatteries for my light electric vehicle:

Four - 12Volt, 21Amp PowerSonic PSH-12180NB-FR batteries, producing a 24 Volt, 42 Amp battery pack.

But, upon receiving the delivery of the batteries, I promptly pried off the sealed plastic panel, which covers the six soft rubber valve caps to the cells, and added almost 1-1/2 fluid ounces (44.4 milliliters) of standard battery electrolyte solution (an over-the-counter product of 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water) to each cell, for a total of 9 fluidounces (266 milliliters) per battery. The electrolyte level just needs to cover the lead plates, and no more. Standard lead acid batteries require topping off with anelectrolyte level of almost 1/2" over the lead plates, but your sla agm batteries are far better off with less.

To inject the electrolyte into the cells, I prefer to use a small, el-cheapo battery electrolyte bulb tester, with the colored plastic balls removed. The pointed tip of the bulbtester is inserted into the small cell opening, and the electrolyte is quickly squirted into the cell so that the solution doesn't have a chance to flood onto the outside-top ofthe battery. The battery cell is then inspected with a small led flashlight, to see if the lead plates are just covered by the electrolyte, but no more. A darkened room, orshed, is best for this. A thin, plastic drinking straw (chemically inert) comes in handy, in case a bubble in the cell hole is blocking your view, to poke it and pop the bubble.Breaking open and "topping off" a perfectly good set of new batteries and voiding the warranty may sound shocking and radical to most people. But, after thoroughly


reading up on the subject, I came to the conclusion that my judgement is correct -and the advice of the battery specialists is either wrong or non-existent. You see, sealedacid batteries are, by their very nature, "starved electrolyte", due to the simple fact that the fiberglass mats between the lead plates are only 95% saturated, in order tomake them spill proof. As such, water depletion of the "sealed" system is a constant concern. Performance can only take a back seat when a battery is designed this way.

Another benefit of flooding a sealed lead acid battery is to provide an inherent ability to dissipate heat. That is, typical flooded deep cycle batteries may normally becomewarm to the touch, either from heavy use, or from quick charging, but if a sealed lead acid battery ever becomes hot (or even warm) to the touch, the internal lead/glassmat cells, more than likely, have dried up and burned out, due to the complete inability of the empty spaces in the cells to dissipate intense heat away from the leadplates. Another symptom of a sealed lead acid battery that is burned out (aka: thermal runaway) is that it also vents off a sick vinegar smell.And if the new high-rate sealed lead acid batteries were truly reliable, then why haven't the golf cart manufacturers installed them, making their vehicles lighter and moreresponsive? I feel that those relatively expensive, compact, and high-performance sealed lead acid batteries must be flooded (electrolyte added), to enjoy their maximumpotential.

The electrolyte added, the six soft rubber cell caps were replaced onto the battery cells, and any spilled electrolyte from the top of the battery cleaned up with a papertowel. I then punctured each of the six soft rubber cell caps, in the middle, with a standard push pin, to eliminate the internal vacuum that happens as the batteries coolback down to ambient temperature, causing the electrolyte in the glass mats to deplete to less than 95% saturation (*** Warning: At one time, with an earlier batterypack, I placed the battery cell caps on a wooden board and punctured each one, in the middle, with a heated, red-hot straightened end of a paper clip, for even betterventilation of the cells, but the possibility of an electrical spark causing a battery explosion is greatly increased by the larger diameter vent holes and I no longer do it thisway). The now-flooded batteries, simply, do not have to be completely "sealed". The plastic cover was then fitted back into place, over the cell caps, and taped shut,lengthwise, leaving the ends uncovered, to allow for venting of the battery.

Working with battery electrolyte solution does require certain precautions (some say it's dangerous -but so is using a table saw, or driving a car):- Only use standard battery electrolyte solution (an over-the-counter product of 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water). Never use pure sulfuric acid. It is extremely dangerous,as well as ineffective. And "topping off" with water will only weaken your sla/agm batteries, as they are not at all like typical flooded batteries.- Make sure that there is someone nearby, within shouting distance, just in case electrolyte gets in the eyes, to help flush your eyes with water, or better yet, specialemergency eye-flush solution. Or, if heavy electrolyte contact, a trip to the emergency room of a local hospital (but still do a first aid flush, as time is critical).- Wear eye protection and wear old, worn out clothes. Small droplets of electrolyte have the insidious habit of producing large holes in your favorite yard work clothes,appearing a week or two after exposure. Cellulose products are surprisingly vulnerable to electrolyte solution (blue jeans, canvas shirt, wooden floors).- Snug fitting latex (or nitrile) gloves should be worn. I only wear them sometimes. But any case, afterwards, hands should be scrubbed down with baking soda, and face,hands, and arms washed with soap and water.

The four - 12Volt, 21Amp PowerSonic PSH-12180NB-FR batteries were then wired, in pairs, in series, and then parallel wired, to produce a 24 Volt, 42 Amp battery pack.

But further reading on the subject indicates that the batteries may function better if first wired parallel, as 2 - 12 Volt groups, and then wired in series, to produce a 24 Voltbattery pack. The reason for this is that a weak battery will not degrade the over-all battery pack as much, in this type of arrangement.

A 7/8" thick pad of Insulite, a closed-cell foam, resistant to battery electrolyte solution, was positioned under the battery pack to absorb road shock, as the shockabsorbers on the vehicle were adjusted to maximum stiffness, to create a more efficient ride and maximize the range of the vehicle.These high rate PowerSonic batteries were actually developed for emergency power backup systems, for computer networks, etc.. Although tried and proven in electricwheel chairs that cruise at 3-4mph, these batteries have not been extensively tested on higher performance powered vehicles. But they are formulated for high-drainusage -without damage. Also, being agm (absorbed glass mat) batteries, they have a strong tolerance of the shock and vibrations of an electric vehicle environment.The caution here is that the HCF-305 is unique in that the OEM electronic controller allows the 600 watt motor to run the vehicle at 14 mph. This is a world of difference,from running, say, a 600 watt motor in a vehicle that will max out at 4 mph. In short, a set of sla batteries that have successfully run a wheel chair for years can quicklyburn out when connected to a high performance electronic controller (as in the HCF-305) that runs a vehicle at 14 mph.The original OEM battery pack (2 - 24V 20A batteries) for the HCF-305, at 24 Volts / 40 Ampere-hours capacity, is just not durable enough to power the vehicle at a14mph cruising speed. It should have been designed with a 24 Volts / 70 Ampere-hours capacity sealed lead acid/absorbed glass mat battery pack + a 24 Volt / 70 Ampelectronic controller, for this type of load. The OEM battery pack was designed to cruise at about 8mph, with , maybe, occasional 14mph speeds for racing against othermobility scooters out of the stoplight.

But this limitation can be worked around. Read on.

And another warning: Don't be tempted to build a custom 24 Volt battery pack that exceeds 40-42 amps. Doing so will quickly burn out the electronic controller. Andsubstituting a higher capacity electronic controller will create a loss of many of the special functions that are unique to the HCF-305's performance and convenience. Inshort, a high performance, off-brand electronic controller will simply run the motor -and nothing else.

Measuring the same height, the same length, and half the width of the standard issue HCF-305 batteries, the pack of four PowerSonic replacement batteries fit snuglyinto the HCF-305 battery compartment. Be sure to fashion a means to tightly secure each and every battery into position. The HCF-305 has minimal sized shockabsorbers and any bumping and movement of the batteries WILL cause the battery cables to come untightened and loose. And the amperage running in the batterycables is strong enough to melt steel.

Although the new batteries arrived pre-charged, it is imperative that the modified "topped off" set of batteries were given a full, overnight charge, using the standard HCF-305 charger. After charging, each battery will test at 13.5-14 Volts -yet another advantage of adding standard electrolyte to the sla batteries, adding extra "pep" to theperformance, without overloading the HCF-305 electronic controller.

It makes no sense to enhance the battery pack performance on the HCF-305, if full power is restricted from reaching the electronic controller, and the motor. Specifically,the OEM 12AWG wiring harness needs to be replaced with a custom, more robust 10AWG automotive wiring harness.

The problem with the OEM 12AWG wiring is that it is really not adequate for fast discharge characteristics of running the HCF-305 at full cruising speed. The OEM 600watt motor is also wired with the same 12AWG wiring, indicating that the motor manufacturer probably never intended that their motor be run that hard.

Also, the cross-section of the OEM 12AWG wire has no less than 65 fine copper wires, that are extremely vulnerable to trace amounts of battery electrolyte wicking deepinto the wiring (acid wicked in and damaged 10-1/2" / 27cm of wire on my HCF-305!). Whereas standard 10AWG automotive wiring is much heavier, capable of handling60% more current and, more importantly, the cross-section a typical 10AWG automotive wire has about 19 coarse copper wires that are far less likely to absorb batteryelectrolyte, and if that happens, is somewhat less susceptable to acid corrosion eating through the wiring, blocking the high flow of current.

Once fabricated, the lugged contacts, on the new red and black 10AWG battery pack cables, need to be carefully "tinned" with an electrical rosin core solder, to make thebattery wiring more efficient. The battery pack cables have battery contacts that are originally crimped on, which can sometimes restrict large amounts of current to freelypass through, causing a "hot spot". Lead-based solder, with a much lower melting point (374 degrees Fahrenheit) than lead-free solder (430 degrees Fahrenheit) willfreely melt into the copper braids of the wiring, with a 75 watt soldering gun, for a clean, heavy flow of DC current. Lead-free solder will probably require a butane penciltorch, to overcome the heat-sink nature of the heavy copper wire and quickly melt the solder well into the connector and wire.

But, if you choose to add electrolyte to your sla batteries (and you should), "tinning" is a required step. The reason is that there will always be trace amounts of electrolytethat somehow make it outside of the battery (from riding the vehicle over rough surfaces, etc.), and make contact with the battery terminals and battery connections. And


once on the connections, an even miniscule amount of electrolyte can quickly wick into the braided copper wiring, to do its mischief and impede in the proper flow of DCcurrent. "Tinning", while not preventing this corrosion, will effectively ensure a clean, heavy flow of DC current through the wiring at all times.

Initially, I simply cut off the OEM wiring connectors and replaced them with heavy duty 12-10 AWG ring terminals, for a #8-#10 stud, crimped onto the battery pack cablesand "tinned" with liberal amount of solder. And then applied and worked in liberal amounts of special battery terminal grease, which also has special inhibitors toneutralize battery electrolyte.

The battery terminals and wiring connectors must be clean at all times. The powdery deposits that sometimes form on the terminals are result of battery acid corrosion.The battery pack can usually be charged through corroded contacts. But the high rate of battery discharge, required for driving the vehicle, will create "hot spots" wherecorrosion is present, greatly diminishing performance of the vehicle.

To remove corrosion from the battery terminals, I've found that a good spray of "Windex" window cleaner (substitute brands don't work as well), with its alkalinecomposition, quickly dissolves most corrosion and also wicks into the wiring harness to further dissolve any hidden corrosion. Saturating an old toothbrush with Windexworks well in removing acid corrosion from the more stubborn areas.

"CRC" brand Battery Cleaner with Acid Indicator is also a quick and excellent aerosol product that has a thorough foaming action, with a yellow colored foam that turnspink, upon contact with acid. A second application, in the pink areas, leaves a thoroughly clean set of battery terminals and connectors. The instructions on the canrecommend flushing with water, but I simply wipe clean with a paper towel, leaving some foam residue to neutralize any acid that might reappear.

If this doesn't completely remove all corrosion, take a small brass bristle brush (the size of a tooth brush) and carefully remove the remainder of the corrosion from thebattery terminals and connectors. Any stubborn areas can be removed with a small, sharp knife. Medium-coarse steel (soap-free) can also be used ensure a solidelectrical connection. Wipe dry and allow everything to air dry completely. To prevent corrosive deposits from forming again, coat the terminals and wiring connectors witha liberal application of dielectric grease -or even better: A silicone dielectric terminal grease.

The new battery pack also needs to be gradually "broken in". That is, run your HCF-305 no more that 2 miles on the first test run. Then completely recharge the batterypack. Run your HCF-305 no more than 4 miles on the second run, and recharge. 7 miles on the third run, 9 miles on the fourth run, 11 miles on the fifth run, and 14 mileson the sixth run. Your battery pack is now ready for hard use.

The HCF-305 should now have a maximum range of 15.5 miles on a smooth surface in open country, or 9.5 miles in neighborhood stop-and-go traffic, at 15 miles perhour.

The first test run on the HCF-305, the vehicle was driven at full speed, for about 8-1/2 miles (but don't do what I did -see above), before the heat sensor in the motorcaused the circuit breaker button to fully extend out, turning off the power to the vehicle. Following the instructions of the HCF-305 Operator's Manual, the vehicle(actually, the motor) was allowed to cool off for about 20 minutes, before the circuit breaker button was pushed back into the flush (reset) position, and the HCF-305 wasturned on and driven home, about a mile away, with power to spare.

Before the second test run, a digital speedometer/odometer was installed to provide greater accuracy. A digital odometer is especially useful when operating a LightElectric Vehicle, as it provides a clear, precise display of the remaining mileage on your vehicle.

* Here are the results with the PowerSonic battery pack (on a smooth, paved surface, and with the modified bicycle trailer in tow):Maximum speed: 15mph (24.2kph)* Maximum Range (on a smooth surface, in open country):15.5miles (24.9 kilometers) @ 15mph (24.2kph)31 miles (49.9 kilometers) @ 9.2mph (14.8kph)46.5 miles (74.8 kilometers) @ 4.6mph (7.4kph)

* Maximum Range (in neighborhood stop-and-go traffic):10 miles (15.3 kilometers) @ 15mph (24.2kph)20.5 miles (30.6 kilometers) @ 9.2mph (14.8kph)31 miles (45.9 kilometers) @ 4.6mph (7.4kph)* It's important to note here that the above are MAXIMUM ranges. That is, I ran my electric vehicle, at full cruising speed, until the electronic controller shut it down, andthen carefully noted the miles. This is not recommended, if you want your battery pack to enjoy a satisfactory lifespan. Doing so (driving your vehicle hard, until it justcrawls back home) is commonly known as "batterycide".* Running the above mileages, per charge, your battery pack will last about 1,000 miles / 120 charge cycles. But simply running your vehicle at 2/3 the above mileages,maximum (but still cruising at 15mph), will double the lifespan of the battery pack, to 2,000 miles / 240 charge cycles, which I've found to be a better trade-off.* It's also important to note that the average annual temperature of where I live and drive my electric vehicle is 58.6 degrees Fahrenheit (= 14.8 degrees Centigrade). Ifyour average annual temperature is higher, then expect your battery pack to have a somewhat shorter lifespan. If your average annual temperature is lower, then expectyour battery pack to have a somewhat longer lifespan.

The above mileage is at an ambient operating temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Driving in cold weather can reduce range, and driving in warm weather canincrease range as follows:

100 degrees Fahrenheit: 128% range With dual LED headlights on: 115% range









* Increase above ranges 75% if PowerCheq electronic balancing modules are installed in the battery pack (see PowerCheq page in this Instructable).One possible complication, though, is the HCF-305 motor overload sensor. While this valuable feature will prevent the motor from overheating and burning out, thesensor-activated circuit breaker, after about 4-1/4 miles of hard riding (at 15 mph) will kick in at the darndest times, such as when speeding through a busy intersection,etc.. At full speed (15 mph), the heat sensor, inside the aluminum end plate of the motor, signals the electronic controller, which makes the decision to shut down thepower, at 126 degrees Fahrenheit, causing the HCF-305 to come to a complete stop. A short wait, of a few minutes, is all it takes for the motor to cool off, and thevehicle's circuit breaker can be reset.

Or, a better option: Accelerate to full cruising speed, then back off on the throttle until there is a noticeable drop in speed, then increase the throttle ever so slightly back tofull cruising speed. You'll cruise like a pro. And, more importantly, you'll be able to cruise at a sustained cruising speed of about 15 mph, and the electronic controller willnow allow the motor to operate at up to temperatures of 145-150 degrees Fahrenheit, without overheating the motor.

The replacement PowerSonic battery pack requires a full 8 hours to charge, before the amber charging led turns green. But a full overnight charge (12-14 hours) is highlyrecommended. After a full charge, each 12 Volt battery will test at 13.5-14 Volts.

Note that sealed lead acid batteries have a slightly different electrolyte, which influences the terminal voltage. If you have installed a set of PowerSonic batteries -andchosen not to break them open and add electrolyte, a full charge voltage should read about 12.8 to 14 Volts.

ALWAYS recharge your lead acid battery pack after a good run (4-1/2 to 7-1/2 miles, or more). Failure to do so can cause deterioration of the lead plates.Also, like Ni-Cad batteries, I've read that lead acid batteries can also develop a memory. This means that after a short test run around the block, for example, the batterypack should not be recharged before storing the vehicle away. Recharging the battery pack, as such, may adversely affect the next cycle, reducing the range. I don'treally worry myself with this possibility, but posted it as a precaution.

So far, the results from the new battery pack have been dramatic. Costing about $ 260.00 American dollars, which included shipping (but the price is going up in 2009), Ifeel that these batteries will provide a compact, yet powerful and reliable high-rate discharge system to power the HCF-305's 600 watt motor.

My HCF-305 is now being run on as many errands around town as possible, to find out how tough these improvised batteries really are. Occasional checks of the batteryelectrolyte levels required only a light "topping-off" of one cell, of one battery only, with electrolyte (with these batteries, don't ever use distilled water for topping off). Thebatteries in the battery pack were also occasionally rotated, from front to rear, to distribute wear (if any) evenly on the batteries.I've been asked: How does one know when the electric vehicle battery pack has reached the end of its lifespan? The answer is that the performance of the vehiclesimply, and quickly, degrades to half the range, after a year or two of service. Lead acid battery packs, in electric vehicles, are usually replaced when the capacity dropsto 80% (80% capacity = 1/2 the range of a new battery pack) or less. To fully understand the usefulness of an old battery that is now at 80% capacity: Mark out the "21Amp Hour" rating on the outside of the battery and write in "16 Amp Hour" and treat the battery accordingly. But my "discarded" 12VDC sealed lead acid batteries (butflooded) are more than welcome, joining up with the old battery pack of my wind generator -or sun tracking solar panel, where they will continue to enjoy years ofsatisfactory service.

The purist may choose to charge their custom battery pack, using four 12 Volt chargers, one for each battery, to ensure a "balanced battery pack". But this isunnecessary with the HCF-305, since the batteries were ordered from the supplier, specified as a matched set. Also, the HCF-305 electronic controller never allows thebattery pack to discharge below 40 percent, so a possible weak battery in the pack becomes less of an issue. And periodic rotation (done every time the batteryelectrolyte level is checked) of the battery arrangement in the pack tends to balance out possible system stress on any one battery. The four 12 Volt battery packarrangement is also defined a "low voltage traction pack", which is not as maintenance-critical as the newer, higher voltage, multiple battery packs in the newer electriccars on the market. A "balanced battery pack" is essential for a lithium-polymer powered radio controlled model airplane, but not for a pack of four lead acid batteries,carefully protected by the HCF-305 electronic controller.

But I am building a lightweight 12 Volt fast charger, which will be permanently mounted on the vehicle, to take advantage of the locally proposed electric vehicleinfrastructure, to double the operating range of the vehicle. And it will require four 12 Volt chargers, in order to carefully control the fast-charge process.

The new battery pack will soon be wired with a fuse, on each battery, so that a short-circuited battery won't destroy the entire pack. The OEM battery pack wiringharness, oddly, is not fused. Also, the series-parallel arrangement pushes the limits of what an amateur should really attempt on these sort of projects, so stay posted forspecific wiring details, complete with photos.

Powering your HCF-305 / Light Electric Vehicle with other types of batteries:

The HCF-305 comes equipped with small, compact sla-agm (sealed lead acid - absorbed glass mat) deep cycle batteries. The problem is that, while deep cycle, thestandard issue WP20-24E batteries are not designed as "High-Rate" batteries, in that they are not designed to survive the heavy discharge demands of a 600 watt motor.

But with the new breed of high-rate sealed lead acid batteries, there's really no better class of battery for the task. Sealed lead acid batteries first appeared in the 1970's,and have slowly improved and evolved into today's SLA's, which have twice the capacity, for their size, than those of the 1970's and 80's. SLA/AGM's are now a betterchoice than lithium-ion batteries. Even if not used, an electric vehicle, equipped with sla-agm batteries, will lose only about 8% of its battery charge, per month. And eventhat tapers off to only about 20%-30%, total, over a 6 month period. But breaking open and flooding the battery pack with electrolyte will cause the batteries to behave liketypical flooded lead acid batteries, and battery pack will self-discharge almost 1% per day.

Traditional flooded lead acid - deep cycle golf cart batteries are just too large and cumbersome.Traditional flooded lead acid automotive batteries are not designed to survive the deep cycle applications required by electric powered vehicles. Using standardautomotive batteries, in the HCF-305, will do permanent damage with each cycle, destroying them after about 25 run/charge cycles.

Deep cycle "marine" lead acid batteries (both flooded and absorbed gass mat) are not suitable for powering electric vehicles. Marine batteries have an internal designthat is somewhere between that of a deep cycle golf cart lead acid battery and a traditional flooded lead acid automotive battery. The problem is that the initialperformance will seem spectacularly successful -until the battery pack finally dies after about 50 run/charge cycles. But, one real advantage of using marine batteries, isthat the harbor masters, in many marinas, will freely give you their surplus used marine batteries. The batteries will work, but are just tired, and not up to full capacity. Nota bad deal for someone on the cheap.

Sealed lead acid - gel batteries are now making their way into electric powered "fun" vehicles. Sealed lead acid absorbed glass mat batteries are sometimes mislabeled"gelcells" -which they're not, but creates to the confusion. But, like most compact sla-agm batteries, compact gel batteries cannot survive the rigors of 500 watt and 1,000watt motors. And, more importantly, having an electrolyte in a gel state, they cannot be tampered with and effectively serviced by the handyman. Sla - gel batteries are,essentially, disposable batteries.

And don't be tempted to install a pair (or a four-pack) of readily available Fisher-Price Power Wheels 12 Volt, 9.5Ah batteries (wired in series) -or a pair Peg Perego 12Volt, 12Ah batteries. Although a reliable, long-running power source for childrens' toy cars, these types were designed to handle only dual 20watt motors, geared down torun at 3 or 4 mph. Running these through a 600watt HCF-305 motor will quickly destroy them.


Nickel metal-hydride battery packs (made of multiple 1.2 Volt cells) are still too problematic for mobility scooter applications. So are nickel-cadmiums. And an electricvehicle, equipped with NiMH, or Ni-Cad batteries, if not used, will lose almost 10% of its battery charge, per day!

Lithium-ion batteries are sometimes used in cost-is-no object projects, to appear high-tech and gain instant credibility. But in fact, the only "advantage" is that it wouldcost about an extra $ 1,000 American dollars to outfit your HCF-305 with a set of lithium-ion batteries, and they would still be the same size, same weight, and same 40Amp capacity. But one little-known characteristic of Lithium-Ion batteries is that they just can't tolerate a fast discharge rate -especially the demands generated by anelectric vehicle.

Also, the OEM electronic controller on the HCF-305 would need to be replaced with a custom unit, since the lithium-ion battery pack voltage drops dramatically duringnormal discharge, and the OEM electronic controller, sensing a low voltage, would shut down the vehicle prematurely, with less range than the standard lead acid batterypack would produce.

The same applies to the new lithium-polymer batteries -except that they do handle fast discharge rates quite well.

Fuel cell batteries, while promising, are too fragile, too expensive, and still under development for light electric vehicle applications. And even, if and when, they aredeveloped and marketed, there is, at present, no infrastructure for readily fueling electric vehicles.

LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) battery technology just may change forever the light electric vehicle industry. The technology is here, but at a cost of about ten timesthe cost of an equivalent set of SLA batteries.

The development of truly new batteries for electric powered vehicles has been painfully slow and stubborn, with no real break-throughs in sight. False hopes have beengenerated by the fabulously successful lithium-polymer batteries, now used in many high-performance radio-controlled model race cars and model aircraft. But thetransition of lithium-polymer power into electric powered vehicles has just not been cost-effective. And, quite frankly, not even effective.So it appears that compact sealed lead acid absorbed glass mat batteries, with after-market electrolyte added, are the best bet for powering the HCF-305. With a 1:4weight ratio (battery pack : total vehicle), this is what the good electric car of the future should be.I've been tempted to re-fit my HCF-305 with two, switchable, 42 Amp Lithium-Iron battery packs (one main + one reserve), to double the range -without increasing theweight, or overloading the electronic controller. But, quite frankly, am not willing to spend my time, driving my vehicle more than one hour, while doing local errands.

A more provocative -and fun, idea is investing the extra cash in a 24 Volt, 450 Watt wind generator and 110W solar panel combo, a $ 1,500.00 package that also includestower hardware and an electronic charging panel. http://www.home.earthlink.net/~hcf-305userforum

Image Notes1. Photo of initial battery pack wiring: Two - 40 Amp fuses have since been added,as well as two PowerCheq battery equalizer units, as well as 24 Volt wiring for anoccasional electronic desulfator hookup. Both the red (+) and black (-) cables ofthe main battery pack harness has also been modified so that cables to the batteryposts are the same length. Stay posted for a new photo upload.


Step 2: PowerCheq Electronic Battery String Equalizers Increase the Mileage of the Battery Pack By 75 Percent!PowerCheq is a real-time, electronic battery balancing system that equalizes and maintains batteries during charge, discharge, and while sitting idle. By continuouslyequalizing individual batteries, within a string, batteries are properly maintained and kept at the same state of charge. Operation during charging ensures that all batterieswill receive a full and equal charge, thus preventing undercharging / overcharging.

An excellent demo as to how the device functions can be found at:

http://henot.longrine.fr/EV/PowerCheq.swf

As mentioned earlier, the four - 12Volt, 21Amp PowerSonic PSH-12180NB-FR batteries are wired, in pairs, in series, and then parallel wired, to produce a 24 Volt, 42Amp battery pack.

But it is not well known that, in such a battery pack, the two batteries, attached to the final positive wire to the electronic controller, discharge much faster than the othertwo batteries, attached to the final negative wire to the electronic controller.

This creates a serious imbalance that not only leaves unused power, in the two negative-end batteries, but also reduces the lifespan of the over-all battery pack -evenwith periodic battery rotation.

My initial plan was to wire in a cumbersome, heavy-duty electric switch, with eight wires from the batteries entering one side, and two wires exiting the other side, to theelectronic controller. The switch would be used halfway through the vehicle run, for the return trip home. The sequence of the battery pack would be completelyrearranged (aka battery rotation) and, I figured, would increase the range of the vehicle by 25 percent and extend the overall life of the battery pack.Yet, at the same time, I heard about the PowerCheq battery string equalizer, which seemed to be far more user-friendly -and efficient. But the reviews on the internetseemed less than enthusiastic. And the manufacturer (PowerDesigners) had removed the device from their website (www.powerdesignersusa.com).After reading about the low performance gains PowerCheq users reported, I feel that the issue is that the PowerCheq device, which was actually developed for electricwheelchairs and mobility scooters, was, in fact, purchased and installed in full size electric vehicles. And, as could be expected, the performance gains were, at best,meager, due to sheer size of the batteries. In short, a PowerCheq battery string equalizer will improve the performance of a 75 Amp-Hour battery, but common sensedictates that only so much power can be transferred through the thin 16awg-18awg PowerCheq wiring.

But things change when the PowerCheq is used with 21 ampere-hours (AH) batteries: The revolutionary device functions at its best!The PowerCheq module interconnects the two 12V batteries connected in each 24VDC series string, in the battery pack, creating a bi-directional energy transfer pathbetween the batteries. The module intelligently equalizes batteries during charge, discharge, and idle periods, keeping them properly maintained at the same state ofcharge -critically important to battery life and range of the vehicle battery pack.

Only two PowerCheq devices were needed, as the simple parallel wiring of the battery pack naturally works to balance the two 24VDC battery strings.

Voltage checks, as well as amp-load tests, have been performed: After charging, halfway through errands, and after returning home, and the battery pack is perfectlybalanced at all times, with the LED indicator lights on the PowerCheq modules constantly blinking on and off, busily at work.

Each module, operating at 85 percent efficiency, transfers up to 2 Amps, while consuming only about 5mA current from the batteries. After charging, the 6 watt floatcharge of the vehicle charger is raised to a 7 watt float charge, by the PowerCheq devices.

More information about the device can be found at:

www.evsource.com/tls_powercheq.php

www.broadenedhorizons.com/powercheq.htm#specifications

Here are the results (on a smooth, paved surface, and with the modified bicycle trailer in tow) with the modified PowerSonic battery pack (broken open and flooded withstandard battery electrolyte solution) with two PowerCheq battery string equalizers installed:Maximum speed: 15mph (22.5kph)* Maximum Range (on a smooth surface, in open country):27 miles (43.5 kilometers) @ 15mph (24.2kph)54 miles (87 kilometers) @ 9.2mph (14.8kph) *This mileage has been calculated -not road tested.


81 miles (130 kilometers) @ 4.6mph (7.4kph) *This mileage has been calculated -not road tested.* Maximum Range (in neighborhood stop-and-go traffic):19.2 miles (26.7 kilometers) @ 15mph (24.2kph)35.8 miles (53.5 kilometers) @ 9.2mph (14.8kph) *This mileage has been calculated -not road tested.54.2 miles (80.3 kilometers) @ 4.6mph (7.4kph) *This mileage has been calculated -not road tested.The above mileages are for an ambient operating temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

The above results are preliminary, as the actual mileages were done under less than optimum operating temperatures (Fall season, ~53 degrees Fahrenheit) and thencalculated to the projected 70 degrees Fahrenheit (normal operating temperature), and will be fine-tuned over the next few months.* It's important to note here that the above are MAXIMUM ranges. That is, I ran my electric vehicle, at full cruising speed, until the electronic controller shut it down, andthen carefully noted the miles. This is not recommended, if you want your battery pack to enjoy a satisfactory lifespan. Doing so (driving your vehicle hard, until it justcrawls back home) is commonly known as "batterycide".When the green led is flashing on the PowerCheq unit it simply means that the device is working hard at keeping the batteries in perfect balance, while charging, or whilethe vehicle is running. Warning: The flashing green led ceases to operate and the solid red led lights up when the batteries discharge below a minimum voltage. At thatpoint, the PowerCheq device ceases to balance the batteries and the vehicle should be either recharged on the spot, or pushed home. Driving the vehicle further willcause permanent, long-term damage to the battery pack, shortening its lifespan.

Running the above mileages, per charge, your battery pack will last about 1,000 miles / 120 charge cycles. But simply running your vehicle at 2/3 the above mileages,maximum, will double the lifespan of the battery pack, to 2,000 miles / 240 charge cycles, which I've found to be a better trade-off.

That said, here are my most recent notes, to achieve maximum range, as well as suitable performance:

Maximum Recommended Range At 15mph Cruising Speed:

100 degrees Fahrenheit: 17.0 miles .... With dual LED headlights on: 15.3 miles





50 degrees Fahrenheit: 9.8 miles ..... With dual LED headlights on: 8.9 miles



These revised mileages are not what I like, but are completely satisfactory for local errands. Only time will tell if the lifespan of the battery pack is truly doubled. There isanother advantage in these reduced mileages in that the battery pack can truly be charged overnight (9 hours), with the modest OEM battery charger, and the vehicle willalways be ready to run again the next morning.

When I purchased the PowerCheq devices, I figured that the devices would increase the range of the vehicle by 25%. But the tiny modules actually increased the rangeof the vehicle by 75% to 100%. And the humbling thing about it all is that I have no clear idea as to why this happened, yet.

Anyway, the gold standard: A full run, on a smooth surface, in open country (no stop-and-go) @ 70 degrees Fahrenheit, will be done as soon as proper weather permits. But the final mileages are actually expected to be slightly better.

I have to admit that I have been quite surprised with the above results and waited over a month, after numerous test runs, before reporting my results to the local ElectricAuto Association. And it's also been fun running errands into the next town. It seems that the age of the practical light electric vehicle is at hand.

PowerCheq Electronic Battery String Equalizers (12V Module: #401-PCHQ-12V-2A) can be purchased, for $ 58.99 each at:www.evsource.com/tls_powercheq.php


Step 3: 24V 40AH LifePO4 Battery Pack!Off-the-shelf technology is changing so rapidly that as soon as I research, road test, and fine-tune a high-performance deep cycle lead acid battery pack -it becomesobsolete!

Specifically, the development of affordable ($ 450 + shipping), drop-in-and-go Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) battery packs, complete with its own batterymanagement system and quick charger. And this has all happened years before I thought it possible.

The reason why a LiFePO4 battery pack excites me is that it is a true high rate battery (can take a heavy discharge load) and it has a relatively flat discharge curve, sothat existing electronic controllers, designed for deep cycle lead acid batteries, will work quite well with the new LiFePO4 battery pack, without having to be re-programmed.

The technology is improving so rapidly, that I am reluctant to specify any brand names, as performance, quality, and prices are expected to improve in the next few years(months?).But an excellent first stop is www.ebay.com

Search for "24Volt LiFePO4 Battery" to bring up the latest vendors.

I would buy and install a LiFePO4 battery pack right now, except my deep cycle lead acid battery pack, with PowerCheq electronic battery balancers, is expected to lastfor two years.

Note: The maximum discharge rate of these new LiFePO4 battery packs range from 2C to 10C, depending on brand name. And I recommend the high rate 10C units.

The C rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on a battery pack, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that packscapacity. Capacity refers to the Amp-Hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by Ah (40Ah, for example).Theres the easy way to find your batterys Maximum Discharge rate: Just multiply the number from the C rating by the packs capacity.

Heres an example, using a 24 volt 40Ah - 10C battery pack:

40 Amps x 10 = 400 Amps Maximum Discharge Amperage

Divide by 2 = 200 Amps Rated (continuous) Discharging AmperageThis means that you can safely draw up to 200 Amps continuously from that 24 volt 40Ah - 10C without doing damage to your battery pack, although I would still not


want to put anywhere near that load on the battery pack.

A 24 volt, 40Ah LiFePO4 battery pack will also provide more range than a 24 volt, 40Ah lead acid battery pack, because it can discharge far more in a typical dischargecycle, to levels that would damage a typical deep cycle lead acid battery pack. So expect up to 50% more range.

LiFePO4 battery packs weigh only about half the weigh of equivalent sealed lead acid battery packs, and are about half the size of equivalent sealed lead acid batterypacks.

LiFePO4 battery packs are not as affected by low temperatures, in contrast to a typical deep cycle lead acid battery pack, which provides only half the range, at 30degrees Fahrenheit, than it provides at 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

LiFePO4 battery packs have a useful life (down to 85% capacity = 69% range) of 1,000 charge cycles, in contrast to a deep cycle lead acid battery pack (with electronicbattery management) that has a useful life (down to 80% capacity = 50% range) of 250 charge cycles.This technology naturally implies that larger, affordable multi-passenger cars and utility trucks will be available to the general consumer, soon.

Stay posted.


Step 4: Modifying the rake angle of the original HCF-305:The rake angle of the original HCF-305's front wheels are backwards!

Look carefully at any bicycle, or motorcycle, and you'll notice that the front wheel slants well forward of the handlebars. A typical motorcycle, for example, has a positiverake angle of about 30 degrees. The rake angle of a well designed bicycle, or motorcycle, provides inherent stability, so that the rider can easily ride without any hands onthe handlebars, yet continue in a straight line.

But with the HCF-305, the problem can be corrected. The engineer who designed the HCF-305 seems to have provided for a good, positive rake angle, but, somehow,down the line, the front wheel suspension was reversed (backwards). A quick examination underneath will reveal that the front wheels need to be removed, leaving thebrakes in place on the wheels. Both wheels are held on with standard right-hand thread bolts, with 17mm heads. But be sure to unscrew the tiny lock-screw, on thesteering arm, first. Then the entire front swing arm / headset bearings / steering arm joint, on each side, needs to be removed and switched left and right with each other(leave the shock absorbers in place on the frame). The steering arm, underneath the headset bearings, (also holds the wheel axle bolt), will need to be installed upsidedown this time.

But first, the original M10-1.5 pitch headset bolt needs to have an additional 11mm of thread cut into it to properly fit into the now upside down steering arm (a simplehandyman project). The brakes (actually a drum, mounted permanently on the wheel hub, encircled by a removable steel compression band), are designed to primarilystop forward motion, so will have to remain on their original sides and orientation. After the adjustments, the front wheels will extend forward an inch or two, and thesteering tie rods will now assume a more natural, horizontal position. My HCF-305 now glides over bumps and rough roads much more smoother. Changing the HCF-305's front wheel suspension to a proper rake angle will reduce stress on the steering headset bearings, so that they will now absorb bumps, at the angle they weredesigned to do, and pass the shock of the bumps directly to the shock absorbers, which will also now be in a better able to dissipate those impacts.

Modifying OEM 22" handlebar to a 29" Longhorn handlebar:The HCF-305, being a "scooter", does NOT have pack and pinion steering. This means, that at full cruising speed, the HCF-305 experiences a slight loss of steeringcontrol, especially when riding over rough paved surfaces. I initially planned to install a hydraulic steering dampener in the undercarriage, but simplicity dictated thatadding 4" extensions to each end of the handlebars should provide the proper leverage, a well as a natural steering dampener effect.

The steering system of the HCF-305 is well built, tight, and secure. But the turning radius is just too tight for comfortably running the vehicle at full cruising speed.I machined down two 7/8" diameter hardwood dowels, 7-1/2" long: 4" @ 7/8" diameter + 3-1/2" @ 3/4" diameter. The inside of the handlebars were degreased and thewooden extensions were glued into place and then marine varnished.

But the above steps are not a cure-all. My HCF-305 now leans slightly out of the turn, and tends to slightly veer left and right, from a straight line, while driving, but the theover-all handling of the vehicle is definitely improved.

So feel free to alter the front-end suspension, but at your own risk.


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Comments9 comments Add Comment

lordgarion514 says: Dec 14, 2010. 2:04 AM REPLY12 volt lead acid batteries don't top out at 12.6 volts, or even all that close really. They actually top out at 13.8-14.2 volts(when newer of course)This extravoltage used to be called "float voltage"(not sure if they have a new name fir it now or not) But to get rid of that'float charge" just run the lights for a few seconds-1 minute. then you will be back to "normal full charge.Also heat affects batteries very little nowadays, unless you have a battery installed in a hot or cold climate and then move to the opposite climate. Batterieslike gasoline are designed for the normal outside temperature they are expected to run at.(example)batteries made for use in very hot vlimstes have fewerplates that are thicker, this allows the lead to withstand the extreme heat better but reduces the cca's. Batteries made for extremely cold climates havethinner but more plates increases the cca's but causing no problem with lead deformation due to cooler temps. You wanna see a battery die in a real hurry?Buy one from a desert location and then move to a place like new york, or vice versa.

I found a good explanation of the effects of temps on battery life on the net and will repost it here.

"Battery capacity (how many amp-hours it can hold) is reduced as temperature goes down, and increased as temperature goes up....

Even though battery capacity at high temperatures is higher, battery life is shortened. Battery capacity is reduced by 50% at -22 degrees F - but battery LIFEincreases by about 60%. Battery life is reduced at higher temperatures - for every 15 degrees F over 77, battery life is cut in half"

Now this is usually not a real problem since the effects on batters are not a one shot deal. In other words if your battery spends 6 months a year at -22F yougain a 60% increase in battery life.But if you spend the other 6 months of the year around 100 degrees you will lose about 60% of battery life, however it willaverage out and the battery will last about the same as if it was at 77 Degrees all year long.

lobo0x7 says: Jul 30, 2009. 6:16 PM REPLYwow shastalore! i am amazed of your deeep knwoledge on batteries. good work, thanks for sharing i am trying to put together some sort of e-vehicle and youare the number one in my list of batterie gurus... can i make you a couple of questions? one is: does it matters to mix diferents sizes (amps) of batteries asfar as de volts are the same? and diferents voltajes? the second one is a bit more general: wich configurationn will you recomend for a ultralight e-motorcicle(or a heavy bike) in order to have the better range possible (it will be used mostly in town and in small road trips, so hi-speed is not a must)? i meantbasically motor? watts? volts? (i still thinking in mantain the pedals like in a bike specially for avoid the motorcicle treatment by the road police), so, hubmotor? and wich batteries do you recomend in order to have decent range without beeing screwd by the prices of high.tec batteries? it was a lot more than 2questions, after all thanks again

shastalore says: Jul 31, 2009. 11:31 AM REPLYThe batteries in your electric vehicle should be a matched pack. That is, order the batteries you need at the same time. All should be the same size andcapacity. And, after receiving the shipment, be sure to fully charge, and then test each individual battery with an amp / load test. A simple $ 30.00 amp /load test meter can be purchased at your local auto parts supplier. Check out my webspace link for the details of using this device, as documentation andtechnical info is notoriously absent with these inexpensive devices. And such an amp / load test will destroy a small SLA/AGM battery. A good rule ofthumb is that 1 out of 10 (1 out of 12, in my experience) sealed lead acid batteries, from the factory, will amp / load test as "bad", or defective. I'm anadvocate of high-rate, sealed lead acid, absorbed glass mat batteries, for light electric vehicles. They are very tolerant of misuse and abuse. Other moreexotic batteries are fraught with problems that the new experimenter is ill-prepared to finance, problem-solve, and achieve satisfactory performance. Asyou seem to just be starting into experimentation with light electric vehicles (welcome aboard) I would suggest that you purchase a basic electricconversion kit (rear wheel/brushless motor hub, battery pack, controller, throttle grip), for an existing mountain bike. Try for a 48VDC system, as it hasgreater torque, for hills and such, than 24VDC (or 36VDC) systems. And a 500 watt motor would provide enough power to go just about anywhere,although a 250 watt motor would work just fine, if you live in a community with no hills. I suggested a mountain bike, as I did just such a conversion,about 15 years ago, by mounting a 2hp "chicken power" 2-cycle motor inside the bike frame, above the pedals. I replaced the pedals with foot pegs,removed the chain and free wheel gears (from the 26" rear wheel) and attached a half-gallon fuel tank along the upper, horizontal frame tube. The frontfork had motorcycle-like shock absorbers, and a large, round 12VDC malibu halogen headlight completed the rig. The bike had a top speed of 24mph,and was street legal, in California, as long as the rider had a valid California drivers license. And the bike was a totally cool experience to ride: Isometimes passed oncoming Harley cyclists, only to have them do a quick u-turn and catch up with me at the next stoplight, thinking that I was riding avintage turn-of-the-century "Merkel", or "Cyclone". But, to make a long story short, it's essential that all electric vehicles be designed, primarily, to beFUN. Otherwise, the performance will be just too far behind that of gas powered vehicles, for most people to tolerate their performance shortcomings.And 26" diameter wheels (fitted with street tires @ 100psi) are, according to the simple laws of physics, the most efficient size wheels to achievemaximum speed, range, and comfort from your electric bike. Anyone, who carefully thinks it through, will not purchase any of the foolishly designed (yetexpensive) electric scooters with smaller diameter wheels. An electric bike, with 26" diameter wheels, will achieve about 50% more speed and range,than an electric scooter with 13.5" wheels, even though both have the same battery packs. I really don't know how the electric scooter manufacturersthink that they can get away with this incredibly serious flaw. But, in China, the typical electric scooter consumer is wise to this, and will only purchase avehicle with a minimum of 24" diameter wheels (although 26" diameter wheels would be better). In fact, if I produce a second version of my electric car, itwill have 24" diameter die-cast aluminum wheels, while keeping the center of gravity the same as the original version.

lobo0x7 says: Jul 31, 2009. 4:24 PM REPLYall right! thanks for the advices and also for the nice story about your 2strokes bicycle conversion. i did the same long time ago, but mine wasatachded to the rear weel through a friction rubber caster! that allow to keep the bicycle pedal wich, in spain, where a live, determines the legaldiference inbetween a bicycle and a motorcycle, at least in those times before the european regulations. my question about teh size of the batteries isrelated with the position of the batts in the frame. i was thinking in have a big 12v 45 amps from a car right at the bottom of the frame to keep thegravity center al low as possible and 3 more, small ones, designed for motorcycles, on top, in order to reach the 48vots requiered. what do yo think?thanks again, sash

shastalore says: Aug 1, 2009. 10:26 AM REPLYThe reason I mentioned a mountain bike, with shock absorbers in the front fork, is that in a motorcycle (or bicycle) 70% of the braking power is inthe front wheel, and 30% of the braking power is in the rear wheel, if one does a controlled stop. But, in sudden stops, that ratio easily changes to100% of the braking power in the front wheel, and almost no braking power is in the rear wheel, unless the bike has shock absorbers in the frontfork (which will help keep, somewhat, a 70/30 ratio). This is critical if you use street tires, @ 100psi, for best rolling efficiency, but need to safelystop a bike that has a heavy battery pack. Also, a mountain bike frame is sturdy enough to mount a sizeable battery pack, and carry it acrossvarying road conditions. And, as I mentioned, you should not hesitate to romanticize when designing your electric vehicle. Every effort should bemade to build it, primarily, to be FUN, and zany. Otherwise, your electric vehicle will be perceived as lagging too far behind, when compared to


gas powered vehicles, for most people to tolerate its performance shortcomings -including you. In fact, I see this strategy as the only thing thatwill prevent the demise of contemporary electric vehicles. As for mixing different sized batteries, to fit in your frame, it not only won't work, butwould be dangerous. The reason I suggested a complete bike electric conversion kit is that it usually comes with several battery pack options topick from. And you can always design your own custom battery pack, when you eventually know your rig inside and out, and feel comfortable andproficient in designing your own battery pack. 12VDC SLA/AGM batteries come in all sizes and shapes, and it would be possible to mix andmatch different shapes of identical Amp Hour capacity, but you would no longer have a matched battery pack. Also, electric bikes, motorcycles,and light electric vehicles all require what is called a "traction battery pack". That is, a tough battery pack that quickly discharge large amounts ofcurrent, rapidly, without burning out. And the closest battery on the market is the High-Rate 12VDC SLA/AGM battery, even though it was notdesigned for an electric vehicle (it was designed for emergency computer power systems). And, even then, I strongly advocate breaking openthese new batteries and adding standard battery electrolyte to the cells, which complicates things, as bicycles tend to sometimes fall over on theirsides (and leak battery acid!). But High-Rate 12VDC SLA/AGM's are the best available for the task, and they are, at this point, relatively few sizesand shapes available of this type.

lobo0x7 says: Aug 2, 2009. 6:28 AM REPLYhi, S! you are totally right in your philosophie about to keep the vehicle as fun to ride as possible. "it's essential that all electric vehicles bedesigned, primarily, to be FUN. Otherwise, the performance will be just too far behind that of gas powered vehicles, for most people totolerate their performance shortcomings." yeap, and mine will be really fun fun to ride and fun to wacht, i hope. i am thinking on it as a weirdmixture out 2 bikes: a good one, the front one, carrying the front suspension fork, the hydraulic brake disk, and a nice set of everything , and asecond one, the scavenged one, wich will hold the motorhub rear wheel, room for the electric setup, and all the space that i think i will need,for stuff or for extra batteries due is the only way that i can extend the range, right? the idea is to make a tandem where the pasenger place istaken by an electric fellas, and allowing the room for cargo or eventually for a human passenger. it got to be strong as a rock but i can make itwith a proper treatment of the lower conections inbetween the 2 bikes. i shaw a couple of designs like this in instructables, an a lot of similarconversions for 1 weeled cargo trailers, resulting in a 3 in-line vehicle. an easy adaptation to an electric pusher can by taken from this point,but i want the real thing! a very long bycicle, stable and fast as posible. light enough for still being able to move it by pedals. but capable ofextend my range to at least 100 kms, being lazy with the pedals, wich means colaborate only when climbing and at the starts. i have beenmaking some googling in sla batts and it seems to be ok for me except for one thing: heat i read that heat will kill them pretty fast, and in thecenter of spain we get 40C in the summer without any effort. this vehicle should withstand stayin under the sun in such conditions, wichmeans a few more degrees than that, due to the facts than meteo readings are taken from a thermometer protected with a shadow from dedirect sunlight. this is a lot of heatand i think that this can be an issue. this is a lot of heat, wich batts do you think can be the best for very hotclimas? one more question: i am a bit afraid of the treatment that you recomend specially for the leaking factor, smalls drops o streams of acidis the las thingh that i want to see in my bike, but i am still thinking in give it a try. the pictures of the batteries that i shaw did not show anyclue on how to open them, they look like plastic bricks with 2 terminals emerging. so i will prefer to try first the nice way and then, if i feel like ineed more of the little boxes, broke open them and flood the cells with electrolitic fluid, as you recomend. theres is any problem with this? orthe treatment must to be done in a set of fresh batts? thanks!! L

shastalore says: Aug 7, 2009. 10:20 AM REPLYI already have another light electric vehicle in the works. I've accumulated a 750 watt electric motor, an electronic controller withmotorcycle twist-throttle, and 3 used 12VDC batteries (from my existing light electric vehicle), for a 36VDC system. The pedals werereplaced, long ago, with foot pegs. Conservatively, I expect it to have a range of about 24 miles (39 kilometers).When designing a light electric vehicle, I urge one to plan a battery pack that will transport the vehicle, passenger, and payload, at fullcruising speed, for only one hour. Too many light electric vehicles are designed with greater range (= longer cruising times), but then alarger, heavier battery pack is needed, as well as a sturdier (and heavier) vehicle, to carry the additional load. And this escalation forgreater range and performance invariably creates an electric vehicle that is so heavy that it has the daunting obstacle of simplytransporting itself, much less a passenger and payload. Also, are you really willing to drive more than an hour a day, doing errands?

Everything (listed above) will mount on my old converted mountain bike (with the 2hp chicken-power 2-cycle motor removed). I'll also adda fake tear-drop "fuel tank" that will actually open up as a glove box.

I'll also build a lightweight, removable side car, for hauling, or to carry an occasional passenger.

But, an important note: The mountain bike wheels will have to be replaced with a pair of diecast aluminum wheels. The side car will alsorequire the same. The reason is that spoked bicycle wheels are designed to handle tremendous stress, but only if they lean into the turns(which is what ALWAYS happens on a bike). In short, if you build a rig of more than two wheels, with standard spoked bicycle wheels, allthe wheels will warp and destroy themselves, within in a couple of weeks. They were just not designed to handle any side stresses what-so-ever. There are some spoked wheels on the market that are specially designed to handle the side stresses of a 3-wheel, and 4-wheellight electric vehicle, but proper spoke adjustment/maintenance could be a problem.But the 3 wheeled rig you described above, with all the wheels in-line, could be built with standard spoked bicycle wheels, but the finishedrig might be unwieldy, in actual practice.

Of course, I have yet to locate a set of 3 diecast aluminum (or magnesium, or plastic) wheels, 26 inches diameter. And this project hasbeen on the drawing board for almost two years. But don't rush me, will ya.

As for your battery pack heating up in the hot climate, you could always protect it with a reflective, insulated cover (fashioned from achromed-plastic-bubble windshield shade). But I just feel that the intense ambient heat, even in the tropics, would only enhance theperformance of your electric vehicle. But you could reference the technical notes of your battery(s) and simply find out what temperaturerange they were designed to operate in.

KevinM says: Jun 14, 2009. 1:30 PM REPLYI'm flabbergasted at your treatment of the batteries here. (wow!) Would you recommend doing this to a standard car battery? I'm wondering about mine, myvan has a tendency to kill the battery somehow, and after a while it won't hold a charge from the alternator anymore. (I still have to check the voltage accrossthe bettery with the vehicle running) I'm thinking 'topping off the fluid' could be a solution to my problem. I'm building a desulfator for this as well, as I think itcould be a factor, but still.


shastalore says: Jun 14, 2009. 10:35 PM REPLYYour question is a little out of the realm of this Instructable, but I'm answering it because I have serious safety concerns: A standard automotive floodedbattery is quite different from the high-rate sealed lead acid, absorbed glass mat batteries, used in my vehicle. As for your battery, the only fluid the end-user would ever add to the battery would be an occasional topping off with distilled water. NEVER top off with pure sulfuric acid. And don't top off withstandard battery electrolyte solution (even though that's what is already in there). Your alternator, if properly functioning, should register 13.5 VDC to14.0 VDC across the battery terminals, while the motor is running. If that's what you're getting, the the alternator is fine. And when fully charged, and themotor off, a good automotive battery should register at about 12.5VDC across the terminals. But that, in itself, doesn't necessarily mean that the batteryhas the raw cranking amps that you need. Is the battery old? Then it might benefit from a 12VDC electronic desulfator. They can be purchased for about$ 30.00, on ebay. They use very little battery power and most can be left on the vehicle, even when it's running. Don't waste your time with chemicaldesulfator additives on the market. Do you use the vehicle for numerous stop-and-go errands? Or do you have numerous, or high-drain 12VDCappliances on the vehicle? That could explain the short battery life. Again, an electronic desulfator may help. Also, there may be a short, somewhere onthe vehicle, on wiring that is not fused. If so, turning on the key switch (short of starting the motor) may cause the battery to quietly boil inside, indicatingjust that. Also, check with a good mechanic, about the brand names of good, reliable batteries on the market. It your battery woes are from heavy useand demands on the battery, they will be able to recommend special high capacity brands, of the same size and dimensions. They'll also be quick topoint out that that some of the cheaper brands are just false economy. There are other unorthodox ways to rejuvenate automotive batteries, but they'remessy, dangerous, environmentally unsound, time-consuming, and I'm not going to go into them here. I hope this helps. Good luck.

Light Electric Vehicle One Passenger 14mph 21

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