Let There Be Light! Flashlight accessories, Led Flashlight Accessories Fuel Powered Lanterns & Lamps...

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Let There Be Light! Flashlight accessories, Led Flashlight Accessori es Fuel Powered Lanterns & Lamps Battery Powered Lanterns, Battery Powered Campin g Lanterns, Camping Lanterns Emergency Candles / Candle Sticks / Candle Lamps

Transcript of Let There Be Light! Flashlight accessories, Led Flashlight Accessories Fuel Powered Lanterns & Lamps...

Page 1: Let There Be Light! Flashlight accessories, Led Flashlight Accessories Fuel Powered Lanterns & Lamps Battery Powered Lanterns, Battery Powered Camping.

Let There Be Light!

• Flashlight accessories, Led Flashlight Accessories

• Fuel Powered Lanterns & Lamps

• Battery Powered Lanterns, Battery Powered Camping Lanterns, Camping Lanterns

• Emergency Candles / Candle Sticks / Candle Lamps

Page 3: Let There Be Light! Flashlight accessories, Led Flashlight Accessories Fuel Powered Lanterns & Lamps Battery Powered Lanterns, Battery Powered Camping.

Let There Be Light!

• Everything about Flashlights.

WHAT? Kind of Flashlight Do I Need

There are 3 basic types of flashlights: incandescent, fluorescent, and LED. Each has strengths and weaknesses. but you must clearly decide what function you expect a flashlight to do before buying a battery flashlight, then match the function with type of flashlight. Each light serves a specific purpose and one should buy a light that fits the situation.

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LIGHT—Incandescent, Fluorescent, LED

• INCANDESCENT FLASHLIGHTS AND LANTERNSThis is the basic, old-fashioned flashlight with incandescent bulb that you probably already have in your car or garage. It comes in several different types, going from least to most bright: general, krypton, halogen, xenon. Industrial quality flashlights to general purpose flashlights can be found in many online camping and hardware stores. As brightness in the light bulb and actual flashlight goes up, so does the price. It might cost you a few dollars more to buy a high quality flashlight, but the better quality and the brighter the flashlight will last longer and provide a higher quality experience. There even make a waterproof flashlight and lantern combination. They are made in various colors like red, green silver, blue and so on.

• FLUORESCENT FLASHLIGHT AND LANTERNSA fluorescent lantern or flashlight will produce a wide area of light as needed for camping, emergency preparedness, household general use, etc. A good fluorescent lantern is great when power fails in your home and are a great addition to every camping trip as they provide ambient light for the campsite for relaxing after dinner and using the restroom in a blackout. Then they are lightweight and packale so great for backpacking.

•LED FLASHLIGHT AND SPOTLIGHTS.These are the latest trend. An LED flashlight or lantern gives light that can actually be brighter than a conventional flashlight. and the battery life is many times longer, plus the bulbs never burn out or need replacing. LED bulbs can be rough handled without breaking unlike incandescent bulbs.

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POWER FAILURE AND RECHARGEABLE LIGHTS

Make your home or business a safer place during blackouts with the an Automatic Power-Failure Light. Just plug it into an AC outlet and it automatically turns on when the power goes out. Once electricity is restored, most units shut off and resume recharging. These type of lights can also be used as a portable lighting source, indoors or outdoors, thanks to a rechargeable battery system and built in carry handle. Since many of these power-failure lights uses LEDs, you'll never need to replace the bulbs.

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Where are those Batteries?

• Batteries--D-cell / C-cell / AA-cell / AAA-cell

• Bulbs / Tubes

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WATER, PLEASE

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Water storage is important. Having an ample supply of safe, clean water is a top priority in an emergency.

• A normally active person needs to drink at least two quarts of water each day. Hot environments can double that amount. Children, nursing mothers and ill people will need even more. You will also need water for food preparation and hygiene.

• If supplies run low, never ration water. Drink the amount you need today, and try to find more for tomorrow. You can minimize the amount of water your body needs by reducing activity and staying cool.

• Store a total of at least one gallon per person, per day. You should store at least a two-week supply of water for each member of your family.

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Amount of Water to Store

• Whereas a quart of water or other fluid daily will sustain life, according to the Department of Defense and the Office of Civil Defense, it is recommended that a gallon of water per day per person be stored for food preparation and drinking. A gallon provides added comfort and accommodates increased fluid needs at higher altitudes or warm climates. An additional one-half to 1 gallon per day is recommended for bathing and hygiene, and to wash dishes.

• How much water should I store? The rule of thumb is to store at least one gallon per person per day for at least 3 days (for earthquake preparedness). That’s 2 quarts for drinking and 2 quarts for food preparation and sanitation. A family of four should store a minimum of 12 gallons of water. If at all possible, it is recommended that you store at least a 10 day supply of water and a 30 day supply.

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Use the following guidelines when storing water:

1. Store drinking water in carefully cleaned, non-corrosive, tightly covered containers.

2. Store containers in a cool dark place. DO NOT store in direct sunlight. Polyethylene plastics (prepackaged milk and water bottles) are somewhat permeable to hydrocarbon vapors. Keep away from stored gasoline, kerosene, pesticides, or similar substances.

3. Stored tap water should be rotated every 6 months. Prepackaged bottled water should be rotated once a year. Check the pull date on the container. Be sure it didn’t sit on the store’s shelf for a year before you purchased it. Self Serve Bottled Water should be rotated once a year, as long as the water treatment process includes ozonation.

4. Rotate your stored water with the water you use on a regular basis. This practice helps insure you don’t have water stored longer than one year.

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Containers That Can be Used for Water Storage• Food-grade plastic or glass containers are suitable for storing water. One-,

three- and five-gallon water containers can be purchased from most outdoor or hardware stores. Any plastic or glass container that previously held food or beverages such as 2-liter soda bottles or water, juice, punch or milk jugs, also may be used. Stainless steel can be used to store water which has not been or will not be treated with chlorine; chlorine is corrosive to most metals.

• 55 gal drums, designed specifically for water storage can be difficult to transport, if the need arises, but are of a tremendous value in an emergency .When looking for additional food grade containers, the bottom will be stamped with HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene) and coded with the recycle symbol and a “2″ inside. HDPE containers are FDA-approved for food. Containers without these designations aren’t OK because of possible chemical interactions between the water and the plastic.

• Clean used containers and lids with hot soapy water. Once the containers have been thoroughly cleaned, rinse them with water and sanitize the containers and lids by rinsing them with a solution of 1 tablespoon chlorine bleach per gallon of water. Leave the containers wet for two minutes, then rinse them again with water. Remember to remove the paper or plastic lid liners before washing the lids. It is very difficult to effectively remove all residue from many containers, so carefully clean hard-to-reach places like the handles of milk jugs. To sanitize stainless steel containers, place the container in boiling water for 10 minutes. Never use containers that previously held chemicals.

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Do I Need to Treat Water?

• Once you properly clean containers, fill them with potable, or safe, drinking water. All public water supplies are already treated and should be free of harmful bacteria. However, as an additional precaution, it is recommended that you add 5-7 drops, about 1/8 teaspoon, of chlorine bleach per gallon of water stored. This precaution protects you against any lingering organisms in storage containers that may have been inadvertently missed during the cleaning process.

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Where to Store Water

• Clearly label all water containers “drinking water” with the current date. Store the water in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Do not store it near gasoline, kerosene, pesticides or similar substances.

• When potable water is properly stored, it should have an indefinite shelf life; however, it’s a good idea to use and replace the stored water every 6 - 12 months. Rotating water this way provides you with an opportunity to experiment and check the amount of stored water against what you require. It also serves as an additional precaution against bacteria or viruses growing in containers which may not have been thoroughly or properly cleaned and sanitized.

• If you have freezer space, storing some water in the freezer is a good idea. If you lose electricity, the frozen water will help keep foods in your freezer frozen until the power is restored. Make sure you leave 2 to 3 inches of space in containers because water expands as it freezes.

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When camping, why do we need a drinking water system?

More people are using drinking water systems while camping, backpacking and traveling. Why?

Safety. Unfortunately, most lakes, rivers and streams are full of microorganisms that can make you sick. Drinking water systems can eliminate these contaminants and make the water safer to drink. Protect yourself, because you never know what's in the water.

Freedom. Be self-sufficient with a drinking water system. As long as there is a water source, you can have safe drinking water. And, lightweight drinking water systems won't weigh you down like carrying extra water.

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What's really in the water?

• Microorganisms are the primary threat in untreated water sources. They may be in any lake, river or stream, even if the water looks clean. Microorganisms generally come from animal waste and may be spread by rain and run-off.

• Beware of these 3 types of microorganisms: Protozoa, Viruses, Bacteria

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Protozoa (2 microns and larger)

• Protozoa are the largest microorganisms (eg. Giardia and Cryptosporidium. Therefore, they are the easiest to filter out of the water. However, their protective shell makes them resistant to iodine and chlorine treatment alone. One common protozoa, Giardia, causes "Beaver's Fever."

• "In one study from over 10,000 samples from streams all across America, Alaska to Arizona, and they didn't find one without Giardia.“ (Chuck Hibler, Colorado State University. Backpacker Magazine, December 1996).

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Bacteria range in size from 0.2 to 10 microns. Large bacteria may be removed by most microfilters, but smaller bacteria can only be eliminated by a very small micron size microfilter or a purifier. Bacteria are responsible for diseases such as Cholera and Typhoid Fever.Common bacteria are E. coli and Salmonella

Bacteria (.2 microns and larager)

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Viruses (.004 microns and larger)

Viruses are the smallest microorganisms and cannot be reliably removed by filtration. It was traditionally thought that viruses aren't a concern in North America, but that opinion has changed. Wilderness studies suggest that 60% of all back county illnesses are actually caused by bacteria and viruses. Viruses can cause serious health problems, such as Hepatitis, Polio and Norwalk Virus. Viruses can be eliminated from water with purification, chemical disinfection, or boiling.

Examples of viruses: Hepatitis A, Polio, Norwalk Virus

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Dirty Water

Dirty water may be caused by sediments and algae but often it's heavily contaminated with micro-organisms and sometimes even chemicals. Due to the many particles left in the water, when treating questionable water, chemical treatment will not always be effective. A mechanical filtration device may be necessary.

Remember, the primary microorganisms of concern in most wilderness recreation areas are tough, hardy cystic parasites that resist heat and cold... even freezing...drought, chlorine, iodine and just about everything else. And while bacteria are relatively fragile and have very short life cycles, often less than a day, cysts can exist for months. All microorganisms of chief concern are invisibly small and they cannot be seen, smelled, or detected in any quick and easy manner. Accordingly, you should assume that all wilderness supplies are polluted.

Assume All water you come in to contact with in the outdoors (and most Countries) is unsafe to drink until properly filtered or purified "no matter how clean it looks“. You will find the best products available today to handle your water filtering / purifying / treatment and testing needs.

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The major danger in drinking “dirty” water is fluid loss due to diarrhea and vomiting, which can lead to hypovolemic shock and possibly death. In order to drink the water, you should be prepared to treat it.

Assume All water you come in to contact with in the outdoors (and most Countries) is unsafe to drink until properly filtered or purified "no matter how clean it looks".

With the increased use of the wilderness there has also been an increase in the amount of bacteriological contamination of backcountry water supplies. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency reports that 90 percent of the world’s water is contaminated in some way. There are a variety of microscopic organisms that can contaminate water supplies and cause potentially serious, even fatal, illnesses among wilderness travelers.

YOU MUST NOT DRINK QUESTIONABLE WATER FROM ANY SOURCE!

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Hidden Water Sources in Your Home

• If a disaster catches you without a stored supply of clean water, you can use the water in your hot-water tank, pipes and ice cubes. As a last resort, you can use water in the reservoir tank of your toilet (not the bowl).

• Do you know the location of your incoming water valve? You’ll need to shut it off to stop contaminated water from entering your home if you hear reports of broken water or sewage lines.

• To use the water in your pipes, let air into the plumbing by turning on the faucet in your house at the highest level. A small amount of water will trickle out. Then obtain water from the lowest faucet in the house.

• To use the water in your hot-water tank, be sure the electricity or gas is off, and open the drain at the bottom of the tank. Start the water flowing by turning off the water intake valve and turning on a hot-water faucet. Do not turn on the gas or electricity when the tank is empty. A typical water heater holds 30-60 gallons of water. Discard the first few gallons if they contain rust or sediment. Let the water heater cool before draining it from the heater so it does not scald you. Turn off the electricity or gas to the water heater to prevent the heater from operating without water. Once water has been drained into clean, sanitized containers, add 5-7 drops of chlorine bleach* per gallon of water, and stir or shake the solution to mix it. Let it set 30 minutes before use.

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Emergency Outdoor Water Sources

• If you need to find water outside your home, outside sources are available. Be sure to treat the water first.

• Additional sources include:

Rainwater Streams, rivers and other moving bodies of water Ponds and lakes Natural springs. (Avoid water with floating material, an odor or dark color.)

Use saltwater only if you distill it first.

You should not drink flood water.

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When and How to Treat Water for Storage

• In an emergency, if you do not have water that you know is safe, it’s possible to purify water for drinking.

• Start with the cleanest water you can find and treat with one of the following methods:

– Boiling: bring the water to a full boil to kill microorganisms. requires energy source and takes time.

– Purifying: Combines chemical disinfection with filtration to eliminate all three types of microorganisms.

– Iodine Tablets: Add 1 or 2 tablets per quart and wait 20 minutes to kill the microorganisms. Takes time and adds foul taste. limited effectiveness against Giardia and not effective against Cryptosporidium.

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Boiling and chlorinating:

• Water can be purified by boiling. (Boiling times may vary from state to state, depending on altitude. In Colorado, the water is safe to use once after it has been boiled for three to five minutes and has cooled.)

• If you plan to store boiled water, pour it into clean, sanitized containers and let it cool to room temperature. Then add 5-7 drops, or 1/8 teaspoon, of chlorine bleach* per gallon of water (1/2 teaspoon per 5 gallons). Stir or shake the solution to mix it. Cap the containers and store them in a cool, dry place.

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Filtering• Filtering:

• Microfilters may remove protozoa and most bacteria. Doesn't remove viruses. May require frequent cleaning due to clogging.

How do I choose a drinking water system?

Use the Drinking Water Safety Guide to help you choose the best products for your needs. It organizes drinking water systems according to the #1 concern: safe water.

Drinking Water Safety Guide Water System Microorganisms Eliminated Microbiological Micro Rating

PROTECTION LEVEL No. 1 PURIFIER Eliminates Viruses, Bacteria and Giardia .004

PROTECTION LEVEL No. 2 MICROFILTER Eliminates Giardia and Most Bacteria 0.2 to 1.0

PROTECTION LEVEL No. 3 FILTER Eliminates Giardia 1.0 to 4.0

Purifiers: #1 highest safety rating Eliminates Viruses, Bacteria and Giardia, no matter what micron size

Microfilters: #2 safety rating Eliminates Giardia and Most Bacteria, depending on their micron size.

Filters #3 safety rating Only eliminates Giardia and microorganisms larger than 1 micron.

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Most water filtration devices are designed for use on microbiologically safe water.

Don’t assume they are safe to use on contaminated water. Check with the manufacturer to be sure.

• Filtration Equipment Safe on Microbiologically Contaminated Water?

• Carbon Filter No

• Reverse Osmosis No

• Deionization Filter No

• Pitcher No

• Faucet Mount Filter No

• Steam Distiller Yes-but it requires electricity

• UV Sterilizer Yes-but it requires electricity

• Ceramic Filter Some-but only if rated for bacterial

Equipment that is safe to use on contaminated water is often slow, costly, inconvenient and/or high maintenance. It makes the most sense to use the filtration equipment that best meets your normal daily needs and shift to water storage or alternative methods of water treatment in times of emergencies.

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Filtering and chlorinating:

• You can filter water if you have a commercial or backpack filter that filters to 1 micron. These are available in sporting good stores and are recommended for use when back-packing. They are not recommended to clean large volumes of water. Filtering eliminates parasites such as giardia and cryptosporidium, but it may not eliminate all bacteria and viruses. Therefore, it’s recommended that 5-7 drops (1/8 teaspoon) of chlorine bleach* be added per gallon of filtered water (1/2 teaspoon for 5 gallons). Stir or shake the solution to mix it. Wait 30 minutes before using the water, or cap the containers and store them in a cool, dry place.

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Bleach

• Use liquid household bleach that contains 5.25 percent hypochlorite.

• Do not use bleaches with fresheners or scents as they may not be safe to consume.

• Giardia and Cryptosporidium are destroyed through boiling or eliminated by filtering. Chlorine may not be effective against these parasites. So if the two-step approach of boiling and filtering is used, less bleach is needed.

• Since adding too much chlorine to water can be harmful, it’s important to be as accurate as possible when measuring.

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• Polar Pure will destroy water borne pathogens, including giardia cysts and other micro-organism that pass through some filters. Ideal for camping back packing, boating, emergency kits and other survival uses. A single bottle can treat up to 2000 quarts of water. It is cost effective—less than 1¢ per quart. Easy to follow instruction are printed on the bottle. Also attached to the bottle is a special thermometer to tell you exactly the correct dose.

Bottle contains concentrated iodine crystals that are not affected by age, air, or temperature. Water is safe to drink 20 minutes after treatment.

POLAR PURE Water Disinfectant uses pure crystallized iodine in a unique delivery system to destroy water-borne pathogens including giardia cysts and micro-organisms that pass through filters.

When used as directed, approximately 300 ppm (parts per million) saturated iodine solution is maintained in the POLAR PURE bottle. This saturated solution is then used to disinfect your water at an optimal concentration of 4-5 ppm iodine which will destroy Giardia cysts in 20-30 minutes in a closed quart / liter bottle of 68° F, 20° C water (colder water will take longer).

Saturation concentration varies with solution temperature. A Liquid Crystal Dosage Chart on the POLAR PURE bottle shows how many capfuls of saturated solution to add to one liter or quart of water to achieve a 4 ppm solution in your water bottle.

You may also like• Chlor-Floc® Water Treatment Purification Tablets• Price: $12.90 Katadyn Micropur MP1 Emergency Drinking Water Treatment Tablets• Price: $14.90 McNett Aquamira® Water Treatment Drops• Price: $13.99 Aquamira® FRONTIER™ Personal Survival Water Filter Straw• Price: $14.90 Stansport� Heavy-Duty Toilet Bags for Portable Toilets• Price: $4.19

Water Treatment Tablets & Purification Kits

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Distillation

• Distillation involves boiling water and then collecting the vapor that condenses back to water. The condensed vapor will not include salt and other impurities. To distill, fill a pot halfway with water. Tie a cup to the handle on the pot’s lid so that the cup will hang right-side-up when the lid is upside-down (make sure the cup is not dangling into the water) and boil the water for 20 minutes. The water that drips from the lid into the cup is distilled.