Lecture 5 Waves and Currents
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Transcript of Lecture 5 Waves and Currents
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Lecture 5 Waves and Currents
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Formation of Waves
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Travelling Waves
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Anatomy of Waves
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Forces Generating Waves are Different
Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force
Capillary <0.1 sec Wind Surface tension
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Forces Generating Waves are Different
Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force
Chop 1 – 10 sec Wind Gravity
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Forces Generating Waves are Different
Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force
Swell 10 – 30 sec Wind Gravity
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Forces Generating Waves are Different
Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force
Seiche 10 min – 10 hr Wind/Seismic Gravity(standing wave)
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Seiche waves
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Forces Generating Waves are Different - Summary
Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force
Capillary <0.1 sec Wind Surface tension
Chop 1 – 10 sec Wind Gravity
Swell 10 – 30 sec Wind Gravity
Seiche 10 min – 10 hr Wind/Seismic Gravity(standing wave)
Tsunami 10 min – 2 hr Seismic Gravity
Tide 12.4 or 24.8 hr Gravity Gravity
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Tsunamis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBZGH3yieLc&lr=1&feature=mhum
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Transition of one wave to another
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Worldwide distribution of wave heights
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Waves and Depth
Deep water
Shallow water
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Breaking Waves
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Types of Breaking Waves
Spilling
Result from waves of low steepness (long period swell) over gentle slopes.
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Types of Breaking Waves
Plunging
Result from steeper waves over moderate slopes.
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Types of Breaking Waves
Surging
Surging breakers surge over steeply sloping (but not vertical) beaches or rocks. Occur where the beach slope exceeds wave steepness.
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Gentle – spillingModerate – plungingSteep - surging
Wave breaking
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Refraction of Waves
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Refraction of Waves
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Refraction of Waves
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Currents
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Currents - Rip currents
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Currents - Rip currents
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Currents - Coriolis Forces
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Currents - Open Ocean
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Ekman Spiral
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Coastal Upwelling
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Coastal Upwelling
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Coastal Upwelling - Phytoplankton
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Coastal Upwelling - Temperature
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Coastal Upwelling - Fishing
Upwelling area Fishing
0.1%
50%
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Langmuir Cells
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Langmuir Cells
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Langmuir cells in sea ice
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Next time:
Coastlines