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WINE & RATINGS

Learn About Italy’s Secret NebbiolosAfter disease and hailstorms destroyed most vineyards in the early 1900s, Alto

Piemonte has bounced back to become an underappreciated source ofNebbiolo.

BY KERIN O’KEEFE

Photo by Meg Baggott

These five denominations of Alto Piemonte are underappreciated sources of elegant, long-lived wines.

If you’re a fan of Nebbiolo, the sole grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco, you’ll love the radiant,mineral-driven offerings from Alto Piemonte, a region higher up in the Alpine foothills than the“Big Bs.”

Vibrant and loaded with finesse, the best are drop-dead gorgeous, as these varietal Nebbiolos

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and blends possess ageworthy structures andimpeccable balance. While warmer temperatures anddrier summers push alcohol levels to extremes in otherareas, that’s not often a problem in Alto Piemonte.Vineyard altitudes, cooler temperatures and acidic soilsmake it rare to find wines that exceed 14% abv.

The most exciting offerings come from the five smallgrowing areas that lend their names to the wines:Lessona, Gattinara, Ghemme, Boca and Bramaterra.

In the late 1800s, Alto Piemonte boasted more than110,000 acres of vineyards, most of them now long gone.Nebbiolo (locally called “Spanna”) was often blendedwith other indigenous grapes, such as Vespolina and UvaRara. In the latter half of the 19th century, decades before Americans had heard of Barolo orBarbaresco, these wines were already available in the U.S.

In the early 1900s, devastating vine diseases and a catastrophic hailstorm destroyed entirevineyards. Embattled growers abandoned agriculture to work in the booming textile mills ofnearby Biella. In many of the Alto Piemonte denominations, only a few wineries persevered.

Thanks to those brave producers, the tiny subregions that make up Alto Piemonte are poisedfor a full-blown Renaissance.

The Beauty of Barbaresco

Lessona DOC

As our truck bumps along a narrow dirt road through dense, overgrown woods, I can’t help butwonder if Giacomo Colombera, co-owner of Colombera & Garella, has gotten lost. Then, like amirage, a large, perfectly maintained vineyard comes into view, surrounded by trees.

“Up until the early 1900s, there were about 200 hectares of vineyards in Lessona,” says fellowpassenger Cristiano Gallera, a local consulting enologist and the other half of Colombera &Garella, one of the youngest and most dynamic firms in Alto Piemonte. “Now there are just 20under vine. The rest [is] overgrown with woods.”


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Winemaking in Lessona has recently been revived, a common thread among the otherdenominations. Only Tenuta Sella, originally a textile firm that started acquiring vineyards inthe late 1600s, has continuously made wine. Until about 15 years ago, however, those wineswere reserved largely for family members and employees of the firm’s several businesses. Theremainder was sold locally around Biella, a historic textile center.

That all changed in 1999, when Paolo de Marchi of the Chianti Classico estate Isole e Olena andhis son, Luca, relaunched Proprietà Sperino, the family’s historic estate in Lessona. Producersacross Alto Piemonte credit de Marchi’s arrival as the rebirth of winemaking in the area.

Paolo grew up in Turin and summered at the family’s Lessona estate. He long dreamed ofreviving the area’s winemaking tradition. Proprietà Sperino’s first release was from the 2004vintage.

“I was completely surprised by the wine’s finesse and the savory, almost salty finish,” says Paolo.

Lessona wines abound with elegance, thanks to mineral-rich yellow sand and vineyardaltitudes that range between 722 and 1,181 feet above sea level. They offer bouquets of rosesand red woodland berries that follow over to the palate, along with a pronounced mineral vein.Lessona wines have an almost ethereal character, but noble tannins and vibrant acidity impartserious aging potential.

Producers can make Lessona exclusively with Nebbiolo, or they can add up to 15 percent ofVespolina, an “offspring” of Nebbiolo, and/or Uva Rara, a common blending grape.

“I was completely surprised by the wine’s finesse and the savory,

almost salty finish.” —Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena


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Photo By Meg Baggott

La Prevostura 2012 Lessona; $45, 91 points. Enticingly fragrant, this offers alluring scents ofrose, perfumed berry, chopped mint, menthol and cake spice. The elegant palate delivers tartred cherry, aromatic herb and star anise alongside fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Amineral note signals the close. Give this time to fully develop. Drink 2019–2032. Oliver McCrumWines.

Proprietà Sperino 2011 Lessona; $72, 96 points. Tilled earth, underbrush, rose petal, perfumedberry, aromatic herb and a balsamic note are some of the many alluring scents you’ll find in thisgorgeous red. The juicy palate is both earthy and loaded with finesse, doling out ripe darkcherry, raspberry, pipe tobacco, licorice and energizing mineral. Firm, polished tannins providestructure. It’s already almost accessible but will continue to evolve and age beautifully. Drink


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2019–2029. Petit Pois. Cellar Selection.

Colombera & Garella 2013 Lessona; $35, 96 points. This stunning red is all about finesse andlight. It opens with lovely scents of violet, rose, perfumed berry and balsamic aromas while theradiant, almost ethereal palate delivers crunchy red cherry, strawberry, white pepper andmineral intensity. It’s impeccably balanced, with bright acidity and firm but elegant tannins.While it’s so tempting now, hold for even more complexity. Drink 2018–2033. Porto VinoItaliano. Editors’ Choice.

Gattinara DOCG

The best known of all the Alto Piemonte wines, those from Gattinara are part of a tradition thatreaches back to the ancient Romans. In the late 1800s, the denomination boasted a significant1,482 acres of vineyards.

Gattinara is practically synonymous with Travaglini and the firm’s distinctly shaped, curvedbottle. Established in the 1920s by Clemente Travaglini, the family-run winery owns 146 of the247 acres registered to Gattinara production. It makes bright, structured reds exclusively fromNebbiolo.

“The soil in Gattinara is composed of Monte Rosa’s sedimentary rocks, granite and iron-richporphyry of volcanic origin,” says Cinzia Travaglini, the great-granddaughter of Clemente, whomanages the winery operations. “Unlike the Barolo and Barbaresco zones, there’s no limestonehere, and no clay.”

Gattinara lies in the heart of an area that was strongly influenced by an ancient super-volcanothat collapsed 280 million years ago. The denomination’s reddish, rocky soils are high inacidity, which lend firm but silky tannins. Those soils also impart marked mineral sensationsthat evoke iron and sometimes even an intriguing hint reminiscent of rust.

Vineyard altitudes 1,050–1,575 feet above sea level see significant day-night temperaturechanges during the growing season. These temperature swings generate complexity, intensearomatics and racy acidity, while cooling winds keep grapes rot-free.

Production regulations stipulate that Gattinara wines include at least 90 percent Nebbiolo.Though producers can blend in small amounts of Vespolina and Uva Rara, most use onlyNebbiolo.

A classic Gattinara boasts red berry and violet aromas, fresh acidity, energizing mineral andtaut, polished tannins. Gattinara tends to be more approachable upon release than Barolo, butstill boasts cellarworthy structure and ages well for decades.

Temperature swings generate complexity, intense aromatics and

racy acidity, while cooling winds keep grapes rot-free.


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Travaglini 2010 Riserva (Gattinara); $60, 95 points. Elegant and structured, this opens withexquisite scents of cedar, chopped herb, pressed rose, menthol and perfumed berry. Theluminous palate is loaded with finesse, delivering bright red cherry, chopped red raspberry,licorice, clove and mineral. Firm, refined tannins and vibrant acidity provide impeccablebalance and support. Hold for even more complexity. Drink 2018–2030. Palm Bay International.Cellar Selection.

Nervi 2009 Valferana (Gattinara); $80, 93 points. Ample aromas of dark berry, pipe tobacco,pressed violet and a balsamic note come together on this single-vineyard selection. On thestructured palate, an energizing mineral vein wraps around mature black cherry, licorice,cinnamon and dried herb while a hint of game adds depth. This has years ahead of it. Drink


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2018–2027. Massanois Imports. Cellar Selection.

Anzivino 2010 Gattinara; $35, 93 points. Enticing scents of perfumed berry, violet, dried herband cake spice take center stage along with a balsamic note. The palate is firmly structured butelegant, and offers tart red cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and licorice. It’s well balancedand young, with taut, polished tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2018–2030. Villa Italia. Cellar

Selection.

Ghemme DOCG

Across from Gattinara on the other side of the Sesia River is Ghemme, where winemakingpre-dates the ancient Romans. Ghemme is often compared to its more famous neighbor, butwhile there are similarities between the two wines, fundamental differences set them apart.

Made in the commune of Ghemme and part of nearby Romagnano Sesia, the denomination’svineyard area is about half that of Gattinara, at about 125 acres. Ghemme’s vineyards aregenerally lower in elevation than those in Gattinara. They range between 820 and 985 feetabove sea level.

Alberto Arlunno runs his family’s Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo winery, the denomination’sleading estate, which traces its winemaking origins to 1800. He says the biggest differencebetween Gattinara and Ghemme is the soils.

“Unlike Gattinara and other areas of Alto Piemonte, where one soil type usually dominates, thesoils in Ghemme are incredibly complex,” he says. “We also have some clay in the higher areas,and here and there, some porphyry.”

Arlunno says the soils owe their complexity to the Monte Rosa glacier, which straddles theborder of Italy and Switzerland. Its retreat across what’s now the Ghemme growing zonedeposited rocks like granite, quartz and other pebbles that break down after the winter rainsand take on a sandy consistency.

The poor soils are perfect for Nebbiolo, and the increased focus on Piedmont’s flagship grapehas been a key improvement in the area over recent years. Most producers today makeGhemme exclusively from Nebbiolo, although producers can also use up to 15 percentVespolina and/or Uva Rara.

A quintessential Ghemme is elegantly structured and fragrant. It offers sensations of rose,violet, woodland berry, spice and mineral set against a backbone of vibrant acidity and refinedtannins. Aging adds even more complexity.

“Unlike Gattinara and other areas of Alto Piemonte, where one soil

type usually dominates, the soils in Ghemme are incredibly

complex.” —Alberto Arlunno, Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo


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Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo 2006 Collis Breclemae (Ghemme); $55, 93 points. The aromaticprofile changes continuously in the glass, but includes underbrush, iron, dark spice, rose, tilledearth and a balsamic note. On the firm, radiant palate, an intense mineral vein wraps arounddried dark-skinned cherry, cranberry, licorice and chopped herb. A backbone of vibrant acidityand assertive but refined tannins provide structure and impeccable balance. Give this time tosoften and develop even more complexity. Drink 2018–2031. Polaner Selections. Cellar

Selection.

Ioppa 2011 Santa Fè (Ghemme); $47, 92 points. Intensely fragrant, this opens with aromas ofchopped mint, baking spice, pressed violet and cedar. The linear, elegant palate delivers tart


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red cherry, crushed red raspberry, clove, star anise and mineral alongside assertive,fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. It’s still youthfully austere so give it time to unwind andfully develop. Drink 2021–2031. Grand Cru Selections. Cellar Selection.

Tiziano Mazzoni 2012 Dei Mazzoni (Ghemme); $40, 90 points. Leather, ripe dark-skinnedberry, chopped herb, rose and a balsamic note are some of the aromas you’ll find on this. Theaustere palate offers tart red cherry, sour cranberry, sage and a hint of anise alongside firmtannins. Give it time to fully develop. Drink after 2022. Skurnik Wines.

Boca DOC

“In the late 1800s, there were 9,885 acres of vineyards in Boca,” says Christoph Kuenzli, ownerof Boca’s trailblazing winery, Le Piane. “When I arrived in the early 1990s, there were just 25.”

A Swiss wine merchant who specialized in Italian wine, Kuenzli first visited the area on theadvice of Paolo de Marchi. He told Kuenzli about an unheralded red that he was sure to like,made by Antonio Cerri, one of the last winegrowers to produce exceptional Boca. Intrigued,Kuenzli looked up Cerri, tried the wines and was hooked.

Cerri, in his 80s, was considering retirement. By 1995, Kuenzli was leasing Cerri’s smallvineyard and cellars, which he purchased in 1998 to establish Le Piane.

Following in Cerri’s footsteps, Kuenzli shuns harsh chemicals in the vineyards and uses nomodern technology in the cellar. Fermentation is spontaneous, with wild yeasts.

Le Piane now has 22 acres of vineyards, including six acres with 100-year-old vines planted inthe traditional Maggiorina system, where three vines are grouped together and trained upwardto form a goblet. Thanks to Le Piane’s success, there are now 10 producers in Boca and a totalof 75 acres under vine.

The ancient super-volcano is responsible for the denomination’s porphyritic soils, whichcrumble easily and turn to fine gravel on the surface. Boca has the highest vineyards in AltoPiemonte, up to 1,700 feet above sea level.

It also boasts a warm microclimate in an otherwise cold area, with high daytime temperaturesand cool nights in autumn. South-facing vineyards benefit from intense sunshine, while thesurrounding hills protect vines from cold Alpine winds, perfect conditions for ripeningNebbiolo. Boca must be made using between 70 and 90 percent Nebbiolo, and the balanceVespolina (which lends intense spice notes) and/or Uva Rara.

Fragrant, structured and vibrant, Boca boasts red berry, mineral

and white pepper flavors set against an elegant backbone of

polished tannins and firm acidity.


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Fragrant, structured and vibrant, Boca boasts red berry, mineral and white pepper flavors setagainst an elegant backbone of polished tannins and firm acidity.


Le Piane 2009 Boca; $55, 95 points. Combining finesse and structure, this impressive wineopens with fantastic scents of new leather, woodland berry, baking spice and balsamic notes. Ablend of Nebbiolo and 15% Vespolina, the enticing palate doles out juicy black cherry, crushedraspberry and white pepper framed in firm, refined tannins. An energizing mineral note carriesthe lingering finish. Despite the warm vintage, it still boasts freshness. Drink through 2026.Artisan Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice.

Podere ai Valloni 2009 Vigna Cristiana (Boca); $55, 93 points. Graceful and fragrant, this


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boasts alluring scents of rose, aromatic herb, flint, red berry and culinary spice. The elegantpalate delivers red cherry, strawberry, white pepper and star anise alongside bright acidity andfirm, refined tannins. Drink 2018–2026. Chambers Street Wines.

Bramaterra DOC

Bordered by Lessona on the west and partly by Gattinara on the east, Bramaterra comprisesseven separate townships, where the hillside vineyards range between 885 and 1,475 feet abovesea level. The towering Monte Rosa protects the area from cold Alpine winds while the altitudecreates sharp day-night temperature variations.

Bramaterra has a varied soil composition. Volcanic, porphyritic soils make up the backbone,but the western parts have sandy marine deposits similar to the soils found in Lessona.

Paolo Benassi, Sella’s enologist, says that like Lessona, Bramaterra has low pH soils, which helpsvine roots absorb microelements.

“The main difference between Lessona and Bramaterra is that Bramaterra is made up ofporphyry soils and [quartz-rich] rock, which impart more iron sensations,” he says.

Benassi says that the highest areas of Bramaterra are rich in rock fragments. In particularly dryvintages, it can result in wines that are more concentrated and structured than Lessona.

Headquartered in Lessona, Sella also owns a 49-acre plot of vineyards in Bramaterra. Its single-varietal Bramaterra is made with vines that average 45 years old. Sella’s I Porfidi bottling ismade with the best grapes from 80-year-old vines planted on the estate’s highest hill.

Bramaterra is a blend made up of 50–80 percent Nebbiolo, a maximum of 30 percent Croatinaand a maximum of 20 percent Uva Rara and/or Vespolina. A textbook Bramaterra is racy andstructured, with intense red berry, spice and mineral sensations.


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Le Pianelle 2012 Bramaterra; $55, 90 points. A blend of Nebbiolo, Vespolina and Croatina, thisopens with aromas of aromatic herb, wild berry, menthol and a floral note. The firm, vibrantpalate offers tar, sour cherry, licorice and white pepper alongside youthfully austere,fine-grained tannins. This needs time to soften up and fully develop. Drink 2019–2027. OliverMcCrum Wines.

Colombera & Garella 2013 Bramaterra; $30, 93 points. Aromas of underbrush, rose petal, flintand dark spice waft out of the glass. The structured, elegant palate offers red cherry, raspberry,clove and star anise flavors set against fresh acidity and a firm backbone of refined tannins.Give this time to let the nervous energy calm down and you’ll be rewarded with even more


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complexity. Drink 2020–2035. Porto Vino Italiano. Editors’ Choice.

90 Sella 2009 I Porfidi (Bramaterra); $52, 90 points. The nose is initially shy but a few swirls ofthe glass release scents of pressed rose, aromatic herb, woodland berry, kitchen spice and awhiff of tar. The tightly wound, structured palate offers dried red cherry, white pepper andanise carried by a vein of mineral. Assertive but polished tannins provide the framework. Drink2018–2026. De Grazia Imports, LLC.

About the AuthorKERIN O’KEEFE

@kerinokeefe

Italian Editor

Reviews wines from Italy

Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe reviews all Italian wines for WineEnthusiast. Previously she wrote regularly on Italian wine for WineNews, World of Fine Wine and Decanter. She is the author of FrancoBiondi Santi: The Gentleman of Brunello (2005), Brunello diMontalcino: Understanding and Appreciating One of Italy's GreatestWines (2012) and Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen ofItalian Wine (2014).

Email: [email protected].


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