Lazy Clock Construction Templates


Introduction

This document contains full-size templates for building the Lazy Clock wood parts using conventional tools.

The Lazy Clock prototype was designed and built using a Carvewright CNC machine and that machine's

Designer software. Except for the clock's face, the parts can also be readily made using conventional tools such

as a scroll saw, drill press, and router. I have not actually built a clock that way, but I have created these paper

templates, extracted from the original digital design, for those that may want to give it a try. I'm also providing

dimensions and some tips as to how the clock may be built without the CNC machine.

I leave it to the builder to design and build a face for the Lazy Clock. I'd love to have you email a photo of your

own creation to [email protected].

If you've never built a wood gear clock, I suggest that you search plans and videos for construction tips, such as

how to cut gears. Since I did not build the clock conventionally, I am unqualified to offer detailed instruction in

this, so I have not included any. But this information is readily available for free.

I do offer a digital download for Carvewright owners, and an instruction manual for building and assembling

the clock using the download. Rather than write another manual, I wrote this one as a supplement to that

manual. Download the Carvewright instruction manual, and just ignore the steps in the other manual regarding

use of the Carvewright, and follow the build steps only.

(Carvewright uses a proprietary file format, and I am unable to convert the design into more conventional CNC

digital files for other CNC machine owners. Sorry.)

Feel free to make modifications as you see fit to ease construction.

Build notes

Ratchet wheel

The ratchet wheel is a critical component, and I believe it would be best to use a simple jig on a drill press to

help fabricate the teeth, much like others have done to fabricate wood gears. I have marked the template with

centering holes for a 1/16" drill bit at the periphery of the ratchet wheel. Using a jig with a temporary axle and

a hole drilled in the center of the wheel, it should be fairly straightforward to accurately locate and drill 60 holes

around the wheel. Then follow up with cuts using a scroll or band saw.

Base

The four smaller holes in the front of base are 3/16" diameter and drilled to a depth of 1/2". The post holes top

and bottom are 1/2" diameter drilled 1/8" deep with a Forstner bit. Corresponding holes must be drilled

precisely mirror image into the back of the face, so you may want to make and use a template that you can flip

over.


Drill the large hole with a 3/4" Forstner 1/2" deep. If you find when assembling the clock that the armature has

insufficient travel for reliable pawl operation, you may have to elongate this hole slightly.

Drill 1/8" holes in the center of the post holes through the base, then countersink from behind. From the back,

the wires hole and coil attachment hole are 1/8" diameter.

The location and size of the pockets for the circuit board and battery box are not critical, except to avoid the

holes drilled from the front., and be large enough for the components that go in them. The pockets were cut

5/8" deep in the prototype. The circuit board pocket is 1-1/2" x 1-3/4" inside and the battery pocket -1/2" x 2-

1/2". The battery box has a lip 1/4" deep, with a 1/4" plywood cover. The cover has a recess to provide

clearance for ten circuit board. You may want to build some jigs for your router to guide cutting these pockets.

Half inch parts

These parts are actually cut from 7/16" thick stock, commonly available in home centers, as described in the

other manual. Pawl and armature parts and hands are cut in three dimensions. This can be done after the parts

are first cut out in x and y directions using the templates, then turned 90 degrees and cut the z depth on edge.

Then finish with a wood rasp. The pawl tips might be best cut in the z direction first using a Forstner bit before

cutting x and y. Leave 1/4" in the z direction, so that when you assemble the 2-part parts they will be 1/2"

thick. Use this oblique view to see where to cut in the z direction.

The recess in the rectangular coil back piece is actually cut into that part's back side, and is not seen. It provides

clearance for the coil wires. You could form it with a series if small Forstner bit cuts that would work fine.

Consult the lazy Clock Carvewright instruction manual for the hole sizes for these parts, as well as the wheels

and pinions.


Templates

This document has been formatted for 8-1/2" x 11" paper. I've included this inch scale for you to verify that

your printed templates are indeed scaled properly.

Figure 1 Ratchet Wheel


Figure 2 32T Wheel


Figure 3 30T


Figure 4 - Quarter inch parts


Figure 5 Half inch parts


Figure 6 - Base front, top


Figure 7 - Base front, bottom


Figure 8 - Base back, top


Figure 9 - Base back, bottom


References

Visit www.carveshop.comwww.carveshop.comwww.carveshop.comwww.carveshop.com for

• More information on the Lazy Clock.

• The Lazy Clock Carvewright Project instruction manual, which you will need in addition to these templates and notes to build a clock.

• Price and availability of a hardware kit for all the non-wood parts necessary to complete the Lazy Clock.

• Complete schematics for the electronics and source code for the microcontroller if you want to build your own.

• Price and availability of a wood parts kit for the Lazy Clock.

If you're building a Lazy Clock, I'd love to hear from you - [email protected].

© Copyright 2013 by Dick Bipes. All rights reserved.

Lazy Clock Construction Templates

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