Concept Book

COMBAT UTILISED Menswear AW16

COMBAT UTILISED AIMS TO EXAMINE THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE SECOND WORLD WAR AND THE STRENGTH OF THE COMMON MAN

B y l o o k i n g a t t h e traditional clothing worn during the Second World War, primarily the battledress, and accessing the main characteristics of c l o t h i n g , t h i s collection combines t h e p a s t w i t h t h e p r e s e n t . T h e f u n c t i o n a l i t y o f clothing worn during the Second World War; p o c k e t s , f a b r i c s , design, is combined with modern day shapes a n d s t r u c t u r e s ; volume, length and i n t e r c h a n g e a b l e garments.

Historically, menswear has always followed set rules, standard g a r m e n t s s u c h a s t r o u s e r s , s h i r t s , c o a t s , w h i c h traditionally are made f r o m p r e d i c t a b l e f a b r i c s . T h i s collection pushes the b o u n d a r i e s f r o m anticipated designs to futuristic.

panels

woollen fabrics

pockets

structure

examining different features throughout the Second World War and current structures. Looking at details including pockets, woollen fabrics, panels and structure.

Pockets PanelsKnit

additional key features within this collection are pockets, knit and panels. pockets appearing throughout the garments and reflect the functional clothing worn and designed during the Second World War. Knitwear will make up approximately 60% of the collection and is a further direct reference to the War. Subtle panels will appear throughout, influenced by military machinery.

patch bellow pockets

woollen materials

functional

exploration of length

durable

clean lines - A line shape

geometric shapes

straight lines - pleating

volume and oversized

architecture studio, Switzerland

University of St Thomas, Texas

racked knitting to show reference to a modern structure that imitates a wave shape. this knit is racked each row to create the continuous, even wave shape.

to bring a contemporary feel to a traditional textile; knit, the shape created for one garment is a ‘wave style’ knitted texture. this ‘wave’ reflects modern shapes and structures as shown in the images to the right.

TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS; KNIT

s k y s c r a p e r i n P a n a m a displays an obvious spiral shape which when looking straight on at, replicated a strong wave pattern

s k y s c r a p e r i n S o u t h K o r e a showcasing subtle ‘wave’ shapes

panelling with straight lines in unique and inventive designs

knit with different textures and shapes. exploration of different widths of racking and looking at back bed panelling, reinforcing the feature of subtle panels

TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS; KNIT AND PANELLING

to add a further dimension to the trouser, looking at a WW2 inspired shape; formal trouser cut to just below the knee. Rather than met with a sock, the trouser will be continued with knit, to the ankle

TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS; HISTORICAL

ADD SKETCHES

t h e s t r u c t u r e d building which has been interpreted as pleating has been transposed into the trouser design. the cropped, wide leg trousers have been heavily pleated on the front and the back g i v i n g p l e n t y o f volume

b a t t l e d r e s s inspired jacket

s h o r t e n e d t h e length - to become a cropped bomber jacket

key details remain; p a t c h p o c k e t , waistband and tucks

TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS; 3D APPLIED TECHNIQUES

TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS; 3D APPLIED TECHNIQUES

the overcoat is lengthened to sit just a couple of inches above the floor and has a slight a-line flare to the shape, referencing this building in Texas. A clean, swift line.

developed the original cargo trouser into a more formal, tailored trouser. this trouser has the historical World War Two reference and incorporates knit into the typical woven trouser.

volumous, pleated trouser

extreem, volumous trousers

gathering in at the waist by the belt

gathered around the ankle

panel at the base of the coat in contrasting

material

oversized, volumous coat which holds

its shape

2D DEVELOPMENT

2D DEVELOPMENT

s t r a i g h t , a n g l e d l i n e s replicated by the use of asymmetric panels

initial first line up

wide leg, pleated cropped trousers

volumous trouser teamed with skinny knitwear

slim fit knitted, crewe neck jumper

trouser with added volume

contrasting skinny with volume

2D DEVELOPMENT

look at bagging out trouser - increase movement, quite volumous

cropped bomber jacket, paired with knitted trouser

- more in-keeping with style

2D DEVELOPMENT

1.

Longer coat, t o f i n i s h level with the b o t t o m o f trouser

Polo neck to o n e h i g h e r than mandarin collar on coat

2.

Padding on only front of knee

Polo neck jumper

4.

C o m p l e t e k n i t t e d trouser with cropped bomber jacket, as more consistent with style of collection

3.

C r o p p e d , p l e a t e d trouser for consistence with outfit 1 - with grown on WW2 inspired waistband

2D DEVELOPMENT

final line up

look at altering the length of the s h i r t o n o u t f i t 4 a n d a f t e r development, change the shirt to a knitted polo neck vest - keeping the longer length

2D DEVELOPMENT

colour board is compiled entirely of images of the outdoor landscape of the Second World War. Rich colours have been selected representing aeroplanes, vehicles and scenery.

khaki

ink blue

charcoal

granite

cranberry

cream

fabrics are mainly sourced from AW Hainsworth Mill in Yorkshire, reinforcing the improve of Britain within this collection. fabrics are woollen, reflecting the materials used during World War Two that were needed for sustainability and functionality.

REN KHAKI (RE002) Made

from 100%

wool, the

True Heritage

range consists

of fabrics

selected from

worsted,

over-coating

and

authentic

uniform

materials.

Widths

between

147-150cms.

LIGHT GREY Made

from

70%

wool

and

30%

other

fibres, Melange

Melton has

the weight

of 315gsm

and width

of 145cm.

It is

available

in

a recipe

of

different

blend options.

MEDIUM GREY Made

from

70%

wool

and

30%

other

fibres, Melange

Melton has

the weight

of 315gsm

and width

of 145cm.

It is

available

in

a recipe

of

different

blend options.

WHITE HEAVY MELTON Made

from 100%

wool, the

True Heritage

range consists

of fabrics

selected from

worsted,

over-coating

and

authentic

uniform

materials.

Widths

between

147-150cms.

BRICK RED OVERCOATING Made

from 100%

wool, the

True Heritage

range consists

of fabrics

selected from

worsted,

over-coating

and

authentic

uniform

materials.

Widths

between

147-150cms.

WOVEN FABRICS

KNIT COLOUR WAYSall knitwear was created on a 7gg dubbed machine, creating a fine, yet defined knit. Colours included two different shades of khaki, navy/grey blue, oatmeal, cream, red and grey. They were all double bed knit, with occasional single bed panels. A 2.5gg machine was used only once, to create a thick textured scarf in cream, with a red panel with a small injection of grey.

7GG DUBIED MACHINE 7GG DUBIED MACHINE7GG DUBIED MACHINE7GG DUBIED MACHINE 2.5GG DUBIED MACHINE

design line up showcasing the proportion of clothing and silhouette. slimmer fit clothing on upper body with volumous trousers, providing plenty of movement.

Details: Floor length overcoat

Main body of the coat, arms and collar made from 100% wool (khaki) with the side panel made from a contrasting 100% wool (cream). Side seam pockets incorporated into the side panel seam.

Details: Wide leg, pleated, cropped trouser

Trouser to be made from 100% wool (light grey), with slanted, trouser pockets.

Details: Slim fit, fine knit polo neck

Made form 7gg knit, in khaki yarn. Skinny fit, with cuff and hem in ribbed knit.

Details: Knitted scarf

7gg knitted scarf with cream yarn with two red panels at either end.

Details: Pleated tailored trouser

Main body of the trouser made from 100% wool (khaki:) with two pleats each side of the front with 1 dart each side on the back. Trouser has slanted, trouser pockets. The lower part of the leg is knitted with khaki yarn - 7gg.

Details: Slim fit, fine knit polo neck

Made form 7gg knit, in blue/grey yarn. Skinny fit, with cuff and hem in ribbed knit.

Details: Knitted scarf

2.5gg knitted scarf from cream yarn with a red yarn panel at either end of the scarf with a grey yarn trim.

Details: Knitted Jumper 7gg knitted jumper. Contrasting, two tone wave on main body of jumper , grey and navy yarn. Sleeves knitted in solid blue/grey yarn.

Details: Wide leg, pleated, cropped trouser

Trouser to be made from 100% wool (dark grey), with slanted, trouser pockets.

Details: Cropped bomber jacket

Made from 100% wool (grey) w i t h p a t c h p o c k e t s , concealed button stand and wrap around waistband.

Details: Knitted trouser

7 g g k n i t t e d trouser with 7gg knitted asymmetric panels.

Details: Knitted vest

Elongated 7gg knitted vest with a back bed side panel on the front. Robbed knitted along the hem and around arm holes.

JW ANDERSON

“Its unique design aesthetic offers a modern interpretation of masculinity and femininity by creating thought-provoking silhouettes through a conscious cross-pollination between menswear and womenswear elements.”

J W A n d e r s o n i s a competitor mainly due to his approach of using through provoking shapes. He looks a modern shapes to influence his designs.

Anderson’s price point is also very similar to the proposed price of the C O M B A T c o l l e c t i o n ; o u t e r w e a r £ 7 0 0 - 1 1 0 0 , k n i t w e a r £ 2 8 5 - £ 5 8 5 , trousers £400-500, tops £200-£300.

COMPETITOR

Always at the core of his universe (and as essential as the clothes themselves) are attitudes, moods and statements about individuality and independence.

The designs are always looking for the now and tomorrow, even if they are inspired by historical or classical references. Modern proportions, a constant research for fabrics and textures and above all the interplay of pure construction and new shapes with the body and psyche of the contemporary man.

RAF SIMONS

Raf Simons is a main competitor due to his futuristic approach to design, that us often inspired by historical references. His constant review on fabric is also key, as this is research and a has a key impact in his designs. His experimental approach to construction is another key reason that Simons is a main competitor.

COMPETITOR

CONSUMERThe customer to this collection likes to wear traditional masculine clothing, whilst exploring new trends and pushing the boundaries so that he is not set in the ‘ordinary’.

He works within the art industry; architect, product designer, interior designer. His profession means he is interested in up and coming technology, shapes and structures; he is a forward thinking man that will therefore appreciate new designs and shapes.

He is broadminded and appreciates buying traditional produce and relishes learning about different heritages.

MARKET PLACEMENT

HERVIA BAZAAR

Hervia Bazaar is a store which would be most suitable to house the collection COMBAT UTILISED . Hervia Bazaar is at the forefront of cutting edge fashion and designed for the avant garde customer. The vision of Creative Director Oscar Pinto Hervia is to “curate luxury design pieces”, which COMBAT UTILISED consists of. This store also stock other brands which are at this competitors price point.

Gold Foil

Spot Gloss

Raised Spot Gloss

BRANDING AND GARMENT BAGS

business cards will be replicated four times, showing four different colours, all information however will remain consistent. the cards will simply show the brand name, contact information and specialism; menswear.

garments bags will also double are a carrier bag. garments bags will fold in half and fasten, and the hook and the top will act at the handle. this continues the high end brand, as a garment bag is more luxurious than a regular carrier bag. the exterior of the bag will be a digitally printed image of the collection with a block, contrasting colour at the base.

SWING TAGS

the swing tags for this collection will be double sided, with photoshoot images on either side. this will showcase other items of the collection for customers to see, when they are purchasing other items. this is a great way to show how outfits work together and what other garments and accessories are available.

PROMOTION LOOK BOOK MAGAZINE

UTILISED COMBAT AW16

LARA.CRESSWELL

The look book will be in-keeping with the theme of the collection and concept; it will consist of modern and slick looking pages, showcasing photoshoot images and close up details. To ensure the look book is aimed at the forward thinking man, it will have a high-end, professional finish, with a striking and clear look to each page.

Designer: Lara Cresswell Stylist: Lara Cresswell Model: Genghao at Model Students Photographer: Martin fu

LOOKBOOK

LOOKBOOK

laracresswell@live.co.uk