Lake Victoria to Khartoum, with rifle & camera

8/22/2019 Lake Victoria to Khartoum, with rifle & camera

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/lake-victoria-to-khartoum-with-rifle-camera 1/478 P u b l

i c D o m a i n i n t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s

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a t h i t r u s t . o r g / a c c e s s

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Lake Victoria to Khartoum, with rifle & camera / by Captain F. A. Dickinson

... with an introduction by the Rt. Hon. Winston Churchill and numerous

illustrations from photographs taken by the author.

Dickinson, Francis Arthur, 1874-

London ; J. Lane, 1910.

http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc2.ark:/13960/t74t6p53g

Public Domain in the United States

http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-us

This work is deemed to be in the public domain in the

United States of America. It may not be in the public

domain in other countries. Copies are provided as a

preservation service. Particularly outside of the United

States, persons receiving copies should make approp riate

efforts to determine the copyright status of the work

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that current copyright holders, heirs or the estate of

the authors of individual portions of the work, such

as illustrations or photographs, assert copyrights overthese portions. Depending on the nature of subsequent

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The Rt.Hon.I

P u b l i c D o m a i n i n t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s

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http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/lake-victoria-to-khartoum-with-rifle-camera 3/478 P u b l i c D o m a i n i n t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s

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OUM


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* : : : . *. * * •

• .. : • • ...

HUKCHILL,M.r.

I DE


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NTRODUCTION

CHURCHILL

ATIONSFROM

THEAUTHOR

EBODIETHEAD

N E CO M PA N M CM X


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s



• .-

DONANDSON,LIMITED,PRINTERS


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s



hatCapta in

dealcompanion

ntrieswhichhe

lsurethatthosew hoare

se l w il l indhisbook an

orhispresence. Theyw ill

nero w rit inghisconstant

so resource orevery

ency, andhis ullk nowledge

veryproblemwhichcan

the sportsman.Elephants

andhippopotamilike

eyew hichcanidenti y

pesby thetw inkleo its

ata hundredyards.

so big-gameshooting

enceinterpretedbysound

ence andtheonly

that itwillnotallow

ctiono improv ingonit.


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s



is allhisown,

essagetoconvey.It

agenuinesportsman,

thegame, how tok il l , and

— how tospare .

ountriesinw hichhis

ratw ildlandso f er

notonlyopportunitieso

ntact withresponsi-

s aspecialeducation

heprosa icroutineo

nglandwithoutnew

geandcharacter, tocom-

egretsw ithw hichthey

las, orthehealththey

ngthesepagesbrings

andcharmingrecollec-

ricaandUganda, tw o

campbe oredaybreak,

s,the longtrampthrough

swhilethe sunrose

thermometerbounded

so restinthe bandas

mingtotallynewvalues,

g, andthe longsitt ings


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s



andthethril lo thestea lthy

thicketin therhi-

ntry,whenateach

mightdisclosethehideo

ormidableenemy.

winglesssolitary.

erailwayse tend.

ushback the ungle. The

secretspotw atchesthe

lephants,orsurprises

lacidly,issurveyinga

shingcivilisation.We

moregame-lawsandless

whichthisbookrecords

areasthe yearspass

s auntychroniclewill

enerationo sportsmen

do ldtimes w ithenv ious

geyes.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



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s



ngasup to

wheneverIgo

semi-savage

edprettyo ten, since

arily luckyeversince I

mak eapo into buy ing,

verylatestbookabout

tt ingmysel w e llupin

ography,andinthe

bits,andthehundred

withits inhabitants.

emind, Iamtry ing

epeninorderthatmy

e periencesmaynotbe locked

here orew asted, w hen

big-gameshooting, e -

tpossiblybene it rom

nwella f ordtolet

g, asthatmakesa llthe

ater,whenyou ind

eorlesse cit inge istence,

eplacesordistrictsw here

e.Thentakeup your


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s



theresultw il lbethat

cult ieso theo lddaysw ill

ina llthe irintensity .

lbenota little

tso the localsavage, w ho,

emandoesk now some-

e pandandtobecome

ntheendyouareable ,

hintsanda litt le udicious

essstories,anecdotes,

im . Allthese little things

elongrun, asthey

nsbetweenthenative

oucanshow ak now-

yandmentionthenames

ee plorersw how erethe

- the-w aycornerso the

rdenand heato

makeandthen to

pire,thenativesare

roceed romstoryto

datheyknowall

ey,andthebig

e— SirSamuelBak er—

, andw ill aw aw ay til l

ortanttoo rom

astheyinstilthewisdom

hemindso thesavag: es


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s



clevernessand general

sultthattheyarenotso

ntheeye, o rpractise

sandsubter uges.

ndoutthattheBrit ish

gamongstthemnotmere lyas

osett le the iramusingmatrimonia l

nter- triba lcatt le - l i t ing-orw hat

whoisalwaysready

oappreciatesagood ok e,

ableandeasilyled.

ppyandpeace ultime

a lw hosebusinessit isto take

heescortto theR ight

p,,thethenUnder

rtheC o lonies, romLake

dok oro, w hichisa

otom, practica lly , to thetop

methatitw ouldbeaswell

p e ri e nc e s on p a pe r o r u t ur e

hattrek w asroundedo f

Mr.Churchill'skind

a splendidshootthe

milesback , Idecidedto

oro romadelight-

eekatKhartoum,andan

w ayuptheNile , success-

hemanygreatk indnesses


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s



so f icia lso theSudan, I

adventuresande peri-

ried, Whata luck ydev il

korill luck,one

g,includingacouple

hardw ork andsti f

rdidmewaswhen,

toguard,Boer prisoners

ne pectedte legram rom

Mullah hunt.From

thissuitedme topho le ;

so!Itmaysoundstrange,

hin antry regiment

re h i s ne t f i v er i s

itdoesn'tarrivesome-

a irygoddess has avoured

ay shecontinueto

nsupplication!

sande periences, as

thedi f erentvarie ties

obemetw ithinEast

neavouredtodiscussin

eE uator, mayhave

leasthe lp ultosome

hard-w ork tack, and

oo typica lheadso

ow,I'mplunginginto


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s



otherbook irstsaw the

sonthistrek w ith

etters orcloseon

re cit ingtok now

poordear thing!

erryandbright isa

pplicabletomost

eetsthisone.

ndeavouringto

eaveragesportsman

daandtheWhite

the irhabitsandhabitatas

photographs muchin

ththoseo EastA rica


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s



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s



oduction

anda. . ..

throughUgandato

.Christmas,1907


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s



ncemore.

hElephant

da


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s



ethreeRegentso Uganda.

chill,m.p.TheGovernoro Uganda.

ondokoroDistrict

lesroutemarching.

ala

Ka uR iver

ari .

dongaForest

o C raggyHills

er.

heWhiteNile

o LakeVictoria

ver

tuous, TumblingRapids'

F a llingWaters

tedaboutitsCourse

buSimbel'sTemple.

min theBackground


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s



r

G.CaptainDi kinson.TheRt,

bourne,r.e.

Goldie.

Plantation

ectiono theBukedi

Masindi

Nile

deo theAssuaR iver

menatGondok oro

Gardens

Bal^nicepsRe

Omdurman

era


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s



b el Z e r a . . . . i 6 o

awholeRhinoHorn. .178

ponthe LevelPlain.. 184

Waters. . . . 184

mlessMorasses'' . . . 186

ence. . . . 196

8

ert....208

ttotheBank ...208

houtDelay . . . 214

222

ckyHills. . . . 240

ven . . . . 246

Bank so theNile . . 246

258

aGrandDay'sSport. .258

udongaForest.. .260

2


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OUM


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s



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R

avoidthecon-

m es o t h e di f e r en t

UgandaPro -

amgoingtoapply

w holecountry rom

nthesouth, toGon-

point oiningupwith

therepetit iono the

ovinces,andconse-

turbingglancesata

thereaderreadily to

daandtheSudan—

chI amdealingin

abita to anypar-

eIsha llo coursemak e

ary,mentioningthe

a lsaretobe oundin.

he strangeravery


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s



daProtectorate,Imay

Ugandapropere -

allsintheeastnearly

Betweenthistract

riaNile liesUnyoro,

akeAlbertonthew estto

eeast.Usogawe

untry lieseasto the

towardsMountElgon.

cometotheNile

or eastbanko

ertas arasGondok oro ,

and Baritribes,in

omsouthtonorth.Fur-

heAcho licountry, w hich

ameShootingonthe

portersandtheirw ays,

h-likethings.Iwill not

r willIsayanything

ywhich itisadvisable

tishighly importantto

ooddouble-barrelled

pressri le , asthisisthe

ore lephants.

ub ecthascroppedup,

dmeat whatspotthey

atan elephantthatitis

ewremarksonthisimpor-


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s



hasbeenlocated,

bigbullhasbeen ound

eterminedtobringto

edasgun-bearerhas

e lyconductedhisemployer

ce,i.e.twenty- iveyards

thouttheherdgetting

hisclosepro im ity and

the uarrytobebroad-

—

caneasilybedist inguished

yeandtheear-Zz o / e . A

atesthebrainandkills

- legvertica llyandhisbody

mesi inchesbehindand

selinesintersect.

t uadrupedonthespot,

hastobe inishedo f

scribedasthe heart

oubtthecorrectnesso the

g- reasons. Ananimalw hen

deadtoallintentsand

pswildlystraight or-

thebloodcausedby the

nhe allsdownplumb.

nthe neckinstantly

m in ormed, to the

romthebra intothetop


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s



hed. Thisanimal— shot

snotdead,and thecoup

stered.

ntshot intheheart

iththe heartshot, and

wasasdescribedabove,as

a llgoodw ildbeasts. The

gtenor! Ihaveasked

tthis,andthe consen-

hattheso-ca lled heart

eck shotinotheranimals,

cticallyno necktospeak

tcatchesthenervesinthe

hantisnot uite

nedtowardsyou,don't

bulletmayhaveto

heso so lidbone

in. I he is acingslightly

sible toshoot— upthe

etow ait. I he is acine

picious,don'tshoot

s arbettertomak ea

animalthata llthew orldis

otsomuch orthesportand

s orthemonetary

a it ingtw oorthreehours

usinessby lettinghim

ery lik e lynevertobemet


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s



ngyou, thereasonw hy it

ausetheonlyvulner-

andyouare uite like ly

tbe ing staredinthe

andmostdangerousanimalin

mstancesthechances

arenotgood. Theplaceto

position,however,isa

unctiono thetrunk

waybetween,andslightly

edthisisthepo intto

ecanyou killhim

I youhithim inthe

stil lcontinueshismad

ui hecatchesyou!

vehim bothbarrels

tspotinhis orehead, and

canlegit, dow nw ind rom

enoughtopermito your

orthebest. Eveni

ccurateyouw illg ivehim

dprobablystophim

orget, thatheadw ill

be veryliverishinto

bullelephantwith

esyou,asyoumay

e ence, andtheybothcount

etwo allowedtobe


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s



usk so thecow arecon-

arenot ined orslaughtering

oplayanyprank swith

ek nee. I you

annotmove, ashisne t

,andhe knowsthis,

heisbrutallydoneto

act, thisisaverydi f i-

owand thegrassis

ten uite impossible

eis. Thisshotis

ithasnotbeenpractised

term inated romSouth

icebe orew eleavethe

ear astrickenelephant,

ng onthegroundand

Walkroundbehind

heback o hissk ull,

.Manya manhas

d bywalkingupto

osingittohaveshu -

a lco il, w heninrea lity the

edbythe smashing

se f o i n g.

nimals, a imclose

uget yourvictimin

a lw aysk now when


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s



heselatterby theblood

eneckshotalways

Iinvariablytakethis

heri Iamonmydayand

meanimalsthe neck

et, andsoaga e lleor

dthe shoulder,

theeyeor ear,as

eso himabovewater-

sheadsolowin

atonecanshootoverit

theshoulder.

itwhereyoucan,

boutit , a imingusuallyatthe

oracrocodile isinthe

kasi hitanyw heree lsehe

ambledownthebank

thatithasbeenmy

ies islikelytobehave

ces.Inordertoattain

n ca r e u l t o re c or d a i th u l ly

and,unlessotherwise

ese lectedcasesinwhich

whatI considera


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GANDA

da,togetherwith

andUnyoro,

o perpetual

andpla in o 'erthe

interminglingwiththetall

,inappearancesomething

whitetrunksrise high

o'erthewholeverdant

wavers,yearinyear

a eo heat-w aves. A

o,prevails.Theonly

stheear isthemonoto-

roo asheshak eshis

overings,whilsttucked

arko atreetrunk.

nowtheharsh

g u in e a- o w l, a s t he b i rd s r is e

way , mak ingbelievethatthey

tnedatone 'sintrusion now

besideone 'sroado a

buck onthew ayback rom

w thecrashingo aherd

e inthedepthso the


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anda

estomatchwoodwhile

tw igrsandleaves. Were

rbed, itw ouldbedi f i-

evethathe isnottheonly

side.

aspecto thecountry

roadtoGondok oro but

s u f i c ie n t to t h e da y — !

stA ricaacrossLake

pitaland seato

ndaProtectorate,isper-

pick-and-spancreationo

rably urnishedwith

, andsomore likeaglori-

ana ureseatothe Isles

aprosa ic erry -boat.

ntebbeshowsitsel

ndcustoms-houses

sedge,againsta back-

shady trees, estooned

ndso bougainvillea.

ustpeepsout rom

dbeyondeverythingrises

rnmentHouseis

ackwavingover-

oadhedgedwith

conductsus romthe

ses,eachinitspretty

ottedontheslopeso a


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s



o grasswhichstretches

lake,whencetheview

ands, summerisleso

phereso sea , asthey

SirHarry ohnston, a

nedaretheresidences

f icia ls. Therearesome

andasmallclubhouse

sitionnearby.On

po thisgreensaucer, are

tholicChapel.

ullo raveningw olves

sleepingsickness, and

dtsetse ly— now , ortu-

terminatedatEntebbe,

the orestlandroundthe

avedecimatedthepopula -

itt le a iry ishingboats

w aterso thisinland

tpicture F ishthere

shermenhave longsince

tothis deadlymalady.

eamerpassesonthe

rseo thevoyage rom

sedto boastacensus

ndpeople,whereasnow

relytwohundred!

houses,pictur-


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s



anda

navenueso so lanum

urple lowers,come

dtheo f icesandshops

brderingtheroadtoKam-

way,comethepolice

e straw-thatchedhuts

glik ethes uareso an

lthehomeo the

Ugandaproper, andthe

ment.

o anew countryare,

ithdisappointment.

stobtuseornarrow-

kee ceptiontothe

eon theroadtoKam-

w ithone's ourcoo lies

calchantall about

epushing w hichisonly so

opeo the inevitable

me , oneplungesatonce into

. Black andw hitehornbil ls

hetopmostbrancheso the

eir headsabovethedense,

growth, ormedbyan

creeperstretching rom

everis oreversitt ing

e, lyinginw aittocatcha

ricted:onesees but


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s



each sidebyrustling

antationconcealingits

t,nowrising now

t betweenthehillsand

ntsintheirnice clean

outatthesong o the

ut, inthe irin uisitivew ay,

der,thisroaddoes

e,becauseithasbeen

eers ormotortra f icin

coo liesthatmeetsus

ntebbepushesusa long

enerytill Kampala's

slyintoview,andthen,

townliesspreadout

ampala isbuilton

ames artoo longand

etoattemptto spellcor-

sesevenhillswere

ther,but nowallis

ven, andeveryone is riendly

greenery,and,owing

esandgrassarepick edout

entsa strikingspectacle.

moreorlessin the

com ortablehouseand

yahigh wattledcane


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s



anda

tionca lled k issik ati, w hich

s t o t h e ho u se s o a n y

areornamentedwitha

k,whichhelpstomake

orandtidy thanany

herEasternclimes.

oHill,thehigh-peaked

onNamirembe,andthe

R omanC atho licMissionon

thenorth, whilstto

he ormeristheo ld

erehe irstpitchedhis

o theC hurcho Eng-

the RomanCatholics.

tionedisamost im-

w ohundred eetlong

swallsarebuilto burnt

so thesamemateria l

chedroo ,which,running

ormsanimposingland-

arandw ide. There isa

theroo o w hichand

athedralisbeauti ullyand

clean whitecanes,each

w intaste ulpatternso

endaparticularly

erwisesomewhatgloomy

thee ce llentnative

theC.M.S.,withits


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s



so spotlessbeds— most

antedwhenIwasthere —

orestandpla intothe

e le to thek ing's

taryhill isseento

aar,streakedwithred

tronglyagainst the

redottedhapha ard.

ance, througha litt legap

an ustcatchaglimpse

nearwhereKampala's

be,aboutsi miles

uthcomestheMill

iono ourv isitthick ly

oysandgirls all

k an us, singing

emulberrybush. A

e rs a l dr e ss o r a ll a g es a n d

theo ld- ashionednight-

asishis localtitle,is

ma orityby three

SirApoloKagwa,the

Minister, pa idav isittoour

rd'scoronation.All

a re le tbyHisE ce llency

by theregentsand

lto thisisavery

systemo nativead-


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s



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s



anda

ants— asnumeroushere

globe— lock tothe ustice

othematthehandso

ewithKampalaand

rememberanymore,and

descriptiono o ther

ellastheaspecto the

eller onanyroad.

!I'vesaidas much

sry toemphasi ethis act.

o restlandandcome

betweeneachhillis a

sityimpedesone'sprogress,

edwiththe actthat

, anything rom i teen

ow slu uriantlyoneach

practicallyimpassable

ndpurposes, e cept

ua li y themw iththat

stherearenoneotherslike

theglobe. Theyarea llthe

atterwhat comesin

Ark,anold-established

mo gett ingouto the

po ahil l , butgoslapover

ting ashion andthen, as

etotheuttermost


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s



etweenthathil landthe

s ,t h er e a lw ay s i s a ne t !

do udgingdistancehere

arching,asbyso many

ls andinthenorth, near

ivers, river be inga

estagnantmarsheswhich

theelephantgrass.

rossedbylong narrow

sdrivenintothe ground

: logs, reeds, grass, and

opo andinbetw een

eculvertsunderneaththe

todra ino f romthe

causewayonamuch-

a low k issik ati ence

achside, w hichhelpsto

ni edmarch, w henone

-wayalongtheroute,

w b a nd a s, o r g ra s s hu t s,

belatedtraveller.There

t he B w an a m a st e r ,

nothertw oorthree or

nstitutesthesceneo

esehutsare re uently

anewsite,theyarea

o r t, a s t he y a f o r d mo s t

hea ternoonsun, andare

I notdestroyed


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s



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anda

hingsinnumerable

n themareacontinual

hisappliesrathermore

ghthe ungle— one

o e lephantgrassorbush

hichw illbeseen, acing

tion,aroundbeehive-

tha low door, in ronto

atsarebusilyengaged

chick ens. oucan

there besidesthedirty

otatoes,andbark-cloth

so lute ly sel -conta ined,

sonitsownpatcho

rieso l i e . Bananasw hen

ake lour o asort!

nbo il 'em, or ry 'em, or

'em w hilstyoumay

ativebeerouto thenice

uandI eat.Sothese

u i et l i e , o r go o n t he

sposed!

tengrowsunderneath

herwiththeselatter,

rportersinthisparto the

sane ce llentthing

o w eeds. Somepeople

swell,butit isnotso


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s



wcomesthebark-

hthenativesmak ethe

dcloththattheydress

urious looko corduroy,

es notwearwell.

k ingahedgeinUganda

o les rombark-clo thtrees

hegroundw hereyouwant

hera ins, anda terw ards

aveall struck, and

nyAaron'srods.

hesepatcheso cult i-

presenceo thepapaw

tw hichis uitepa la table

reshlime- uice— a lsogrow n

uee edoverit.

eareoreatonchickens

dto producethemas

eller,buttheeggsare

orobv iousreasons. The

submissivepeople,keep-

odescare ullyweeded,

he irloca lchie asin

ouredcustom.They

amostpo litemannerw hen

d, andsay* 'Ow ! w ith

e'ssalutationo

ughtourregimenta ldog,

respondedwithal ow

ters,andtheydon't


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s



,KAMPALA


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



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s



anda

greatthing. Ihate

utingandgrumbling

bilit ies.

s a a r i o f t h e

, andgo ingmoreorless

thereasonbeingthat

t uiteboredenough

ghtroad— thougha

hasHoima,liesmany

it— andw ouldw ishto

tle-knownpathsandby-

track .

hehead- uarterso the

canR i les, the loca l

a longridge,rather

ng,thesurrounding

bikaplainsin the

days.

Busibikabrings

atI hadverynearly

t h e th i no s o r w hi c h Ug - an d a

ulandin erna lthunderstorms.

certaintimedaily,

itt le la tera tera our

cloudsbank up, heavy ,

south,with thelightning

h! inthemidst. Ahush

heca lmbe orethestorm.

amongstthetrees

gandrollingo the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



edbyablast o wind,

th,thestormbursts

one. Pouring,drench-

tbe ingliterallyupsetin

ogramme,accompanied

lghtningIhaveever

shing,andvolleyingo

earsagoa thunder-

ny,whichimpressedme

chit playedround

hetown,backwards

avee periencedsevera l

ayas,wherethesight

tIhaveneverbeensoaw e-

veby theseaw ulstorms

undthevicinityo

strucktheother

Iw asoutinoneo these

ces. Thetreew as la ttened

combinedwiththegeneral

mademethinkabit!

sall over— thatis

eusuallygetsa back

o r a no t he r h al - h ou r , wh i ch ,

thatwhichaccompanies

storm. Thenthesuncomes

n,thoughsopping

themutteredcurses

sun'srays dryone's

rrow'srepetitiono


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



sts


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



anda

a llthem orthonce

stormscomeo f uite

the365, roundthe

mentiswellinside

that evenLeap

r en c e !

t-hil ls, w hichseemtoend

enterona ourney

untry,withthegentlest

there a landw herea

rasadiversiontothe

ghtheshortgrassin

ori iedorchard,we

w hichisnow ameretrack,

tintoa scrupulously

asw enearthene tshamba.

ous olk,andwhere

erewillothers becol-

north-westbetween

rivers,whichare some

t. Ishouldnotca llthisa

erearea coupleo

tw hichw illa f o rdheapso

mindsarebentthatw ay .

egrass inchesrise in

de, andthegaily-

a in-eater lits romtree

ergesinto orest. Lil ies,

nthe irthousands orthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



, o therw iseacontinua lv istao

tothevicinityo the

o pa lmtrees,

alms,withtheir long

thal -wayup,andthen

o orange-rednuts

aththewide-spreading

ntedwiththenestso

hichdanglethere rom.

ring theriverKa u,

andaandUnyoro.We

dryseasonoveraw ithered

d, bindingtherootso the

ether, anda f ordinga

ootho ldasonestaggersover

aththisrunthedeep

ch low ssluggishly into

enorth,we now

oundourtemporarygoal

nty- ivemilesaway.

archisthis, through

riedand decayed

ist imeo theyear t i l l ,

d, w edropintoapretty

huts, cheek by ow lw ith

o cultivation,which

nstthered-brownsoil.

eshadowo thehill


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



anda

orw as, Ishouldsay taste -

uesandgroveso C ape

at inesto gentlemen

ows,poorRoddyOwen.

pparentoneveryside.

levatedverandaho the

ngalow ispleasing. Houses

and numerousgardens

cropso allsorts,clothe

the oregroundaround

cesisbrill iantwithmasses

as,thewholescenewell

Ho imahil lsto thesouth-

o highways.From

n ourneyalongwell-

ra,Fa aoandthe

mathecapitalo

e,becauseitleadsus

a orest,whichiswell

naccounto itsscenery

sthehead- uarterso

il ltransportusyet urther

heNileas arasNimule .

ungletrack w ehavebeen

and betakeourselves

ncemore, ro llingoverhil l

totheuttermostdepths

ngoverthehighestspoton


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



oadw indsitsw ay through

ulcountry , the loca lsavage

-handthantheBaganda,

eenmilesitplungesintoa

romtheburningglare

romtheblack andye llow

ntedtrees outside,

eat,toa dimmysterious

k s, accentuatedat re -

tchesmadeby sun-

maboveontotheplacebe-

nd orestis orthe

tw oorthreeverydeep

inthera ins runthrough

disintheGameR eserve,

ephantonthatsideyouhave

sedthepathbe ore

orestthere livesa

ntelope,calledIntallaganya,

carrynohorns.M'sam-

heirbarewhitetrunks

theair,spreadingtheir

theremaining ortyor

rubberv inesandthick under-

y.Beauti ulbutter-

tterhitherandthither

arsh screams,and,

ctures ueblack-and-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



33 3 3

ARI


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



anda

hatpeeratoneand

ybreakby theirdis-

aprimeva l orest.

undsimpressthe

moreemphatically

g-intheunnatural

the li a rdsinthegrass

thetree- rog andone

undo thescampering

easingcontrastto the

ggingcamp,and

r t hm i ca l h i sh o t h e

andechocarries arin

o somesavageatlogger-

k overasweetpotato

portanttohim.Butone

scordant soundsare

ne'sdimlylightedpath

eybesetsomeotherpaths

hatlengthbreak sthe

e indourselvesonce

eo thesun, andbe ore

dsomethousand eet

andcalm.

escarpmentand

milesthroughdustybush

rbouro Butiaba . Athin

drunsoutinto thelake,

thenorth,makesan


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



orthesteam- launchand

etheNile lotilla.This

edyardsacross, andis

.Across thewaterthe

nstitutethewatershed

obasins,areclearly

hesugar-loa peakthat

agibeingeasily

retemporarily, asthe

scribedelsewhere,and

copy righto another

mightyriverhere.

tshewasbeingtreated

hurther ee lings!

oButiaba, w eshouldhave

mi l es r o m Ma s in d i to F a a o

heretheNile breaks

carpmentwhichwan-

Lak eAlbert. We

eduenorth o Masindi

th-westpointwemadeto

houldhavecrossedthe

anoe,takingseveraltrips

entsand oodacross, and

da.dry, hot,dusty

rteendaystoNimulebyway

be animportantstation,

wellas Wadelaionthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



BI'DONGAFOREST


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s



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s



anda

heoldNile province,

gcountrythatitis, and

280milesa longthishuge

ticallyhandedbackto

tersomanylivesand

nit,and thatit

hreestations— Koba,

withonlyanominal

purposesroundeach

tiono thecountry

whitherweareconveyed

dtheaspecto the

hange.Nimuleisa

sebeingpractically

osetotheCollectorate

thereis asmallnative

rasusualbythe enter-

militaryhill, now

Nile,andthe police

downtheGondokoro

tt lew ay romthe

thebank so the

ctiono highishhills,

trees. Insteado the

U g an d a we a r e a c e to a c e

n ground,overgrown

achwiththorntreesand

ntrystruckmeas


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s



NorthernSomaliland,

alsointhestrange

whichspring uppromis-

gpla in, someo them

usand eethigh, o thers

Heretheso-ca lledcart-road

ghwhyitis somis-

ay in aceo theabrupt

andtherivers,which

eroad uite impassable

i c a nd o r p or t er s .

eeasto Nimule

w hichtheNile oams

apids. I thew indbe

directionthew ay arercan

lroaro thew aters.

e lvemilesaprettycampis

o theAssuaandAtappi

ado enstatelyborassus

dthe rou- rouo

rondsmak esmusicpleasing

egroundisa gradual

soto thewest.All

h ist imeo theyear—

woorthreeriversthatusua lly

elp intherainy

meo theNile, onour

s la ttoundulating, and

bedonthe way.


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s



5 ''

'3 ' '

5 3

SOFCRAGG HILLS'


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



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s



anda

slyon or107miles

thornbushes,the

clothingthemselvesin

owblossom,makingthe

t.Nowandagainaherd

buck isv iew ed roma ar,

a ttheapproacho strangers.

has alsotobecrossed

, maybeseenperhapsaherd

e,though,onaccounto

ness,thisdependson

oodmanagement.

, re uentthesebush

drinkatthe Nilesome

eawayaga inlongbe ore

gle ortressestosleepo f

oonlightrevels.During

srare ly, i ever, that

onedoesnotcome

eir eetdraggingthrough

eevening'sdew rom

marksamidstthepearly

re!The orceo

hits raysbeing

rock sandstones, ti l la t

erno.

rtance,bothinsi eand

v iew, thatw ecrosson

Kit,whereweleave


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ndmak e riendsw ith

assedsinceleaving

uchness. Athorn eriba,

dtheattackso a

naonthevillage locks

rroundsaco llectiono huts,

cularringo stoneslabs,

withapeakedthatched

rlappingthewalls.Dotted

ous-shapedgranaries,

i v e e e t hi g h an d o u r e e t

lesto keeptheratsand

the tribesmen'sworldly

dhurraormillet. Litde

tricts, astheyaretoo ar

andtheirclimate isnot

ybananas.Dhurraand

toes ormthestapledieto

rchingseesusleaving

ehavepassedvery ew

enteringthesparsecultiva-

ityo Gondokoro

eUnion ack gladdens

ss theburningparade

sneartheo f icia ls'

dsdistant romSirSamuel

withBelinianhill

nd, thesceneo many


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



anda

dthenow peace ul

done— thatistosay , as

ened, andIthink Isha ll

t , o ritsvariedscenery

msandhabitso its

dto beat.


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_ u s e # p d - u

s



surancePolicy, i

business-liketerm,

ter— theNile . I w e

ndtheMadMullah

h ew togrieve or

keVictoriaNyan a.

orethestreamswhich

thesethe largestand

havingitssourcein

heMauescarpment,

nterritoryintoLake

tspeak o theMara

l e T h is g r ea t a f l u en t

edandsurveyed,when

ndaryCommission.

m,broadeningoutpast

mingsand,whilstitsbanks

o game.

amarkthebeginning

rceandgeography . Between

bertit isk now nasthe

avingthe la tterlak e it is

ncontrasttothe Blue

orBahr-el- ebe lo the

heArabicw ord or

eanstheriverthat

go mounta ins. F orahundred

Gondokorotheriver

erieso a llsandrapids,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



i^ '


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



inestscenery Ihavecome

shingdow nanarrow

asso oamandbubbles,

ver inspate,with

pool.

notyet a llen, sow e

theposta terthis

hatdisappointing.

bouttheirbeauty,and

tho theNile, sow hat

henorthendo the

o Lak eVictoriaNyan a

en- ootdrop, doesnot

citing.Itis necessary

m i n a o n t he U s og a

k toobta inthe inest

Thegreatswirlo w ater

ontheverybrink o the

get uiteclosedow nto

mile urtheronone

w hichissomethree- uarters

aro thebroadvo lume

oughthedi f erentchannels,

ndthe tumblingand

ushingtowardsone,ismost

onsterbarbe lca lled

seenperpetua lly umping

emthetorrentandreachthe


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s



rmorantscontinually

o t o t h e a l ls , s et t li n g, a nd

entlyhal -drowned,in

hthe ir innyprey rom

theycome,and,on

tumblingwaters,back

y . The ire f ortsare

hie ly inthe uieter

dturmoilo the a lls,

ocks tobaskon,and

le inthehandso the

eawayamonotonous

practisinghiscunningonthe

ughtto bearwithmuch

wtheRiponFalls

icharehidden rom

gleo aprimeval

omtheRiponF allsa lmostto

ellerseesveryl ittle

wenFalls, withtheir

ntwaters,are,theytell

hantheR iponF a lls.

du,theriverpursues

oughavirgin orest,

utmakingitspresence

t h e a l ls a n d so n gr o t h e

stgiantswhichraisetheir

ault above.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



st,un ortunately,be

escriptiontil lwemeetit

do Kakindu,wherea

es romthesmootho ily

a greaterdeptho w ater

cksandrapids.

3720 eetabovethe

erew ew ere orty - our

av igablepo intonthe

route orLak eKioga , at

eet, sothedropinthisshort

estandsin much

ctoriaNile,inthe

pills,asthe suddcountry

WhiteNile andthat

aandKw ania— w hich

rea llyareaparto one

f erence inthe levelo

oints— Kakindu,

indus, andMruli, w hich

g.Thesetwolakes,in

more thanmere

by thee cesso w ater

ethanby the irow nin-

gintothem romMount

ctcurrentset bythe

ruliandonwards, in

KarumarapidsnearF oweira ,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



nFallsatFa ao.

esent nothingbuta

ers.Theyshould,how-

meanso communication or

romthecomparativelyun-

rthernshoresas soon

nedup.Thesetwo

aswellas indispensable

aught, stern-whee lsteamers

aye tensionto

chrailway rom

oopeningup therich

ar, perhaps, asthene igh-

rBugunguinthenorth-

bert. Thisw ouldmean

ithLakeAlbertand

Nimule , besidesopening

p o rt o t h e pr o du c ts o

eEasternC ongo, rom

o Lak eAlbert. It

heBritishEmpire

anoptimist!I

e init iono apessimist

sthechoiceo tw o

lio thedays

ntrustw orthy riend— -

i n is h ! M o re o r l es s o

ak enitsplace. A ew


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



raise theirheads

hemselvesavillage

orhiahereroundinthe

comedownandthew ater

he aceo the land.

mMruliisbankedup

e ig h t e e t o r s om e t en

etw eather.

romhere,rounding

w iththesamele t-handed

sor rapids— which-

hem— andFoweira

soncemore,andwith

e inturnitapproaches

ome ivemilesorso

apids impressone

aysa lady supreme

the a llsshesurpasses

. F romthe aceo the

, be low the a lls, wherethere

Mutinydays, onecan

oweringsmashing orce

w atercompressedintoa

throughcycleso wear

ock,andthus caused

de.Theyare saidto

ack thaninbygoneages,

esentastupendous

alls,onebelowthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



ris romhal amile to

be low the a llsthe

perhaps ourhundred

vesarescarcelytwenty-

magine,then,thescene

gtorrent,boiling,seeth-

aththenarrowcrags,

ponderousrocksit leaps

intobubblesand

re is ramedinw ithbril-

esameold easternsky

te'sIn erno , as, besides

simpossible ormeto

erms, Isaw below the

ughthespray,o the

ichaddtothe ameo the

erry Ipicturedthem

harons w hilstseen rom

ik ethehorridpitsinto

a llandareengul ed.

onsters,waiting or

ndneverspare!

vingthisplace— where,

graphstation— isby

Nile isnav igableas aras

ometwohundredmiles.

esthe observeron

,oroneo thesteel

le lo t i l la , isthe in-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



E WHITE.NILE


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



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_ u s e # p d - u

s



getation.Everything

reen. Thegrass, the

eds, a llseemtobeo a

ehasever seenbe ore,

emileso aridstonyground,

p orestgrassthatone

atherstartling,and

ndscapehasbeensteeped

bankabovethever-

ment,startingon

MurchisonFalls,continues

heskyline,nowcloser,

l, onnearingBugungu, ithas

heotherbankrisesin

notinsuchruggedleapsand

esideo theriver, w hich

breadthduring the

tothe lak e— aboutthree

be ingthema imum but

Albert itbroadensoutinto

redwith loatingw eeds,

evastareao thisw aste

nd Congomountains

the lakehavebeenvery

speciallyonesugar-loa

an stationo Mahagi

ls,which here


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



henorth,our sturdy

nthestream, underthe

nthe le tbank , which

ltheyareblottedout

gto indthatthe

itherbankbeauti ul

msare occasionally

placeswhichpermita

untry . Westeam irston

dthenclose inunderthe

asthechannel,which

s knownbytheman

eAlbert andthe

hroughwhichonlythe

w,shuttinginthe

dshapeourcoursebe-

ankrunsintoa bare,

thehil lsonthew est

eselatterbegin to

ellationo mountains

nlandsstretchingto

herdso antelopes,

inorinthesunlight,

smalltroopso e lephants

nedin thisneisrhbour-

ouritehaunto the irs—

ank andbandso

onk eystak eto lightasthe

uouschannel.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



rikingin thewoods

otthebeauti ulco lumn-

ra-likebranches,but

its entanglemento

slikeabroomturned

, chie lyatthe in lu

etobe seenbasketsand

dicatinganabundance

mall ishingboats, made

,crossandrecrossthe

generallyoneperson,but

areveryblackin

glepaddlewith great

dusk y riendo the

toinmidstream,

epass,andthrowon

r e sh i s h o a l l s i e s t o

lasthoseo our

ybrokenbyhugerocks

eronssittingupon

vegetationblock

romtheshore: theseare

papyrusandavarie tyo

pinkconvolvuluses

stemtostem,andpistia,

cplants, o rmathick tur

ormousgrow tho these

berlessswarmso


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



dhereretreatswhere

apantinghippoplunges

ves,leavingitsshady

o thesteamer and

hastenoverthebroad

es, pick ingupa ew insects

anevening, and

stlesoundedthetall

avagesappearedon

o irewoodtheyare

evoraciousmawo

wouldbesituatedclose

uallysmall,and

ablehemisphericalstraw-

desmadeo short

dtogether,andthe

ithmud. The inev itablethree-

vacantspacesbetween

simsimarelargely

usua lly stark oh!

minutiveaprono well-

nornaments orthe

o thepresumably

themselveswithivory

,andnumbershavethe

cdinw hichshortpieces

t uc k .

ow ingchie ly to Its

metimesamiletoamile


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



>

)

, 3 ' 3 3 3 3

LLS TOLALLViriUKLV


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nk s ormak indo barrier

rslowlymakesitsway

ther,generallycasting

dbehinde ceptone, drag-

enreturning orthe

a time.Theriver

themaps,butthe

e o themudbanks

ingchok edby reedsand

berso largebaysand

sgrowthpermitsa

re uently seesteepbank s

edwithhousesin themidst

hstation,butdeserted

ryoccupation,asalso

erthew ay , some ive

rew epassEmin'so ld

me,wherehe satand

ndthemonotonyo the

meditateon thetrials

ellas thebravedeeds

ortunateman— un ortunate

cala f l ict ionandhistragic

w ick edmen. Hisname

nonthebank so the

ymonumenttohis

nk o therivera low

romalongdistance,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



mtheriver.Shortgrass

nthe otherwisebare

ow- low eringambatch

ks. Ontheeastbank

bovetheother,stand

he leve lo thecountry

bourhoodo the

ntheshoreo which

rthe plainsloping

rary,presentsa

dsatplaces, w hilerather

umnarmountainsrisein

tthe barrierree and

ock yporta lso theNile

proachtoNimule rom

rthey trendtowards

bushesand trees,

cli f s, renderedblack by the

Onastil l, e uatoria l

re announcesthe

onthehithersideo the

allynearingthenarrow-

er.

BelgianDu ilesome

nsiderabletime this

C ongo leseportsonthe

w nrampartso the ort,

well-builtburnt-brick

d,airyverandahs,and


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



THERIVER


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



achandall,speak or

gianenterprise inthese

hundredmileso

a llsandsha llows, o rapids

thespelluntilR e a ,

ched.Therivervalley

lmorenarrow,the

rowmorenumerous.Onthe

rocktheir eathery

e c o n u r ed u p b y th e s wi t l y

po lo ty tamarindsmark s

ddenlydeviates rom

hillyheightso its

ew ay orthemostpart

t i l ldownw e allto the

s,sharp-edgedgrasses,

ri e thedescent and

he greatKuku

obegin.

ouristsandrenowned

orpictures uenessin

tspeepso chateau u td

ees but orpure , wild,

earto arugged,

the Peaceo A rica

theNile oritsne t

s,tumblingrapids,

orges,clothedwith


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



orbiddingumbre lla thorn

apids,wheretheriver

ashoot notsovery

nesees thatthese

are ustbeingtipped

gsun, w hilstouto the

comesthethunderous

ers,boomingthemorenoisily

yet awakenedouto

intorrent,leaps

aceo thecragsunderthe

dDervishpost,erected

communicationsopen

e ile , undertheshadow o

a llsandrapids,

aca lm, sw i t- low ing

herocks,ortwisted

ardgoesthe cease-

a te r s. G r ot e s u e o r ms o

thenakedrocks,now

p intoasemicircular

lessbranches, now w ithhigh

nlyatthe summita

ut alittle,though

r mightycrestson

rsideo theriver, hil ls

andpatcheso sand

ade,andwoodedbelts


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s



' '

S,TUMBLIM KAPlDb

FFALLINC,WATERS


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



e smallbeginnings

ks,withpossibly aMadi

edin. Terracescovered

greendhurra,simsim,

ew hutsuponthe lanks

greeableresting-places orthe

mov ingcampinthis

perhapshearthehippo

g athism idnightmeal

pmenttowersaboveone,

koMounta insonthe

on iR ange intheLado

, st i l lamere oot-

wayupbetweenthehill-

sstillnarrowand

esslikeamountaintorrent

epgullies ormed

ainsuddenlyouto

stsmallclusterso

alborassuspalm.On

ainshavegradually

its orestsandw oods,

rwardstomeree crescences

e,anerstwhileDervish

tegicalimportance,the

housandsmallcascadesand

sdeeplyhollowedchannel.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



mind, le tuslook atthe

e'stentis pitched

adeo a riendly tree , with

downtotheriver'sedge,

thestately ormo a

ngitsgreat rondsto

e . R ightbehindonea

ingwiththemetallicbell-

ridges,risesabruptly

e 'stentdoortakesinthe

rest-cladislandsdotted

se,and thegreenwoods

lstbeyondloom, tierupon

ngocragssharply

luesky — theback-

ymanyarock, still

enthehills,whichcom-

thecountrybeyond.

er gneissrubbleand

mica,continuallybroken

wampsinthebottoms,now

try,seamedandscored

ndravines.Thenthe

ightlypackedrocksrun-

eretheysuddenlydip

hidetheir crestsin

o therapids.

entv iew s, whichhave

st ortymilesorso , the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



•

OTTEDABOUTITSCOURSE


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



randstonier,andthe

otonous,as,thoughthe

es itswayalong,in

o thetime, there isnot

nerytooccupythe

tter,too,which

rocks arecominginto

theheatrays.

w hichlitt lenow

worthmentioning,and

bendeastwards or ive

micallittlesugar-loa

l R e a Hil lst ick sits

ndingLadopla insand

importantBelgian

eNile , romw hichit

st postinthe

ytheUgandaProtec-

veSirSamuelBaker's

ruculentBariand the

ers.Therampartso

hecom ortablestern-

itheverylu ury,the

overnment.Wehave

ndallthe pictures ue

de c e pt o r s om e e -

ainstobe described,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



statelyruinedtemples

Egypt, amedinthe

e.

andbankstoLado,

chstands,neatand

Theninsomethree

a,thesouthernmost

vernmentontheeastern

erylow andthere-

s, and orthatreason

rareri e . TheGovernor

meSudanesetroops,with

otherEgyptiano f icia ls,

etoenliventheir days

obtainedinthe

ere isavery inegunboat

the la testtypes, w ithtwin

beasahome.

terashortstoptopick

ndpassKiro, the

ioninthe Lado

avebeentravelling

Albertbehindus. At

mei atotak ew ood

tationtil lthesudd

holdsonthesandal

ava ilablespace ispiled

argewithanupper

rugatediron, ca lleda


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



dw ithw irehawsersto theside

glori iedbargecarries

o f ice , ande traw ood

hindispensable,the

backs.Itretards

gainstthecurrent,and

whato apande-

ngoutsideone 'scabin

ngGamei atheriver

orw ardsinaserieso small

egins!Theboathas

l o w o t h e ri v er s o a s

ndenablethe helm

sonthepaceshe

thebendsis very

procedure isas o llows:

aight orthebank

andhitsitw ithconsider-

so lidgroundin ront, or

tsuddbank . Ine ither

ight!Thenthe orce

rombehindcatchesthe

dshespinslike atop,

getsstra ightagainthe

ringstheengine- roombell

Occasiona lly , though, he

ingherpayo Ttoo ar,

a tonce. Wherethe

udden theengineslie


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



alongonherdownward

dlikeateetotum,hitting

other, roundingone

,andcrushingand

eedsw henthene t

sttheyare ableto

,and awaywego

broaddaylightwhen

ohappen, butit 's uite

sittingatdinner,let

thesuddcountry, o

criptionisnecessary.A

dpapyrus,withanocca-

gitsgolden-crowned

eetstheeyeonevery

beyondthehumanpower

marshandspills, loating

atnoneo theLake

esbelow this it isa ll

psandlosesitse l by

vaporatingintothe

touchtheground,

twinedwithone

penetrablebarriertonavi-

uite impossibletow alk

ptcormorants,darters

ecks,andbeauti ul

splendentingreenand


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ton theneckand

dswoopall daylike

ass ire , because itstirs

mAsyousit inthebow s

nngcountlessnight- ars

esswingsintheirhunt or

o theniorht. No

ohippos, asthere isno

andnocrocs, asthere

emtoeat. All isgiven

ough ormost

to o llow !Thatis

tthatonedoesseea

ga in, w ithaDompalm

twoasoneapproaches

hereast.

herightbank come

re l-Zera — notariver,

omthesudd— andtheSobat

able oritstre -

terthera insinlandonthe

ogetherwiththeB lue

miles urthernorth, is

hegreatstorageo w ater

dmoreespecia lly or

Thera insattherespec-

eatriversup-country

riodseveryyear, sothateach

aeo w ater.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ablishedonthe

and— whichisin-

ingressandegress or

ntheshapeo ate legraph

nMissionHouseanda ew

s h ad o wo a e w D om

o Tau ik ia , a dust-

ss, dryandburntupin

ebuildingsstand ust

rw hirlingpastin ront,

sw ampbehind. Another

tymileson, isKodok —

alled— theadministra-

k Districtandthehead-

rnorthereo Traceso

llremain withastrong

ceis envelopedin

ourhundredyards

ypastthe Game

nk,pastRenkand

mallhillrisingouto a

ingonthroughsandydesert

bankwithdryand

oElDueim,theland-

hecapita lo Kordo an

veKhartoumthe

ndtheriverbroadens


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



thedistanceasa

ountedbywhiteminarets.

oonOmdurman

iltstraa-or inortown

It isthelargest

eemslostinthe orest

ecra tthatbringdow nthe

mthe erti lepla inso the

abluer tintinthewater

theSudanesesoldiers,

o o rmerDerv ish orts,

siteo thebattle ie ldthat

o t ime oraw hile.

hallowerandmore

lesdown,theShabluka

Hereweleavethe

, butitst i l l low son.

hesceneso many

naryencounterwith

eNilesurgesonitsw ay

rao-sandbillowso

wroaringoverthe

ndacrosstheriverbedin

,nowwashingthebaseo

f , now lappingthesand-

uietbay.

tHa i a , w hereastil l

ssible— steamerthanw ehad

oenableustocontinueour


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



theriver. Weare ast

ptureso ancient

hePharaohsandmore

an. Thebanksaregreen

ornyacacias wave

o datepa lmsstandinglik e

shortdistanceonly

andandbold andrugged

overallcreation.

a, orPersianwater-

k-eyedbullock, orever

enedcircuit,makes

iscatching romthe

Twoorthree men,

s,are sittingonalog

y somedirty childrenare

inthedust aw oman,

edonherhead,steadied

ns towatchthe

ystandswithdrooping

egrate ulshadeo atree

oddingtothe ephyrs

ortsthevaryingdepth

onoussing-song some

ginthebow s thew ho le

p, asa lsoarethehuge

ures oreverstaringatthe

sacredporta lso Abu


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s



ABUSIMBEI,S TEMTI.E

'A. DAMl. IHELAC KGKuUM


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s



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s



andgoneRameses

nhe ight, tw ooneachsideo

interior whosewalls

paintand rescoeso

ely igures,which

themysterieswithin,

nthe moonlight.

romv iew . Then, w ith

umpona hiddensand-

pastthelonglines o

avingonourri ghthand

esstoweringoverheadon

roachthegreatAssuanDam,

bythepent-upwaters,the

placidlyga ingatthe

tisbuilt uponan

thatthewaterslap its

the oundationsin

Thecarvingsstandoutin

pta lso themassive

tedwithchiselling,

ar-advancedciv ili a t ion.

nrybuilttodamupthe

av iew to improvethe

ptisaboutamile rom

markedbythearmso

opthestonesandconcrete

wouterwallthatis

trengthenthe oundations

si teen eethigher, toa llow


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



t mo r e o t h e li e - gi v in g

eaches.

ongthe bankso

e ll- la idra ilsemphasi ing

ult ivationanddesert by

etempleso KomOmbo

row ningcli f sthatshut

sinthe irgloomygorge,

y withitsgleaming

tspalacesandgardens,

vera ll, seto aga inst

kattamhills,whilstthe

threeguardiansenti-

olitanpopulace rom

ehstandona plain,which

brightwithvegetation,and

sembosomedin

amarisks,acacias,and

thingcouldwellbe

edistanceo amileor

eensoo tendescribed

ttheo t-reiteratedwords

derandastonishmento

tand grandesto

ywiththeageo

w dso Arabs, who

,clamourin broken

thehonouro escort ing

ststaircasewhichleadstothe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



AIR


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



unclothedchildrenshriek

asthecarriageratt lesacross

spanstheNileatKasr-e l-

theseancientmonu-

o hoursorlessthe

operas,theatres,

es.Thusthecontrast

entis evengreaterthan

heops ormonlyone

tructuresstretchingalong

eriver,weirdvestigeso

emotebe orehistory

edyardstothesouth-

midcrouches, asithas

so years, continua llygett ing

nthe drivingsand,the

w nastheSphin , w hich,

ecentlydisinterredinits

the ideao buildinghis

nteredthebraino

Sphin , carved rom

enigmatically aman's

body,symbolicalo the

thenruleroverthe land.

inisheditslong

voyage romthetropicsto

,throughbarbaricregions.

hroughthegreat


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



mAle andria toR osetta ,

randw idew ithits er-

a tersbe ore losingitse l in

aspectacularchar-

theselasthundred

ssitbethatthetrave lle rstarts

wh e n al l t he e c i te m en t o a

reatunknownlying

nationashega esatthe

nedbytherayso the

dwaterin ablood-red

ow co lourso anEastern

nge f ort, t i lldark ness


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



R NE

araw ay

erim,

heday . . . — Tennyson.

ttrek through

c ha r ge o M r .

ygenerally,

terest.

utinhiso f icia l

ayo State orthe

nd, andobtaina irst-

nhabitants,itscustoms,

bilities.He had

rica , anddonean

orkinspectingcottonand

cattle arms,police

swellasvisiting out-

stationsindistrictsthat

gardsdevelopment.He

ngdeputationso

settlevariouspoints

otice,buthadnever-

rsandwichinginacerta in

ooting. Heandhis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



tunateinsecuringseveral

EastA ricanbiggame

da.

u r th e r o f i c ia l d ut y a t

heproposedtocontinue

home,andbeauty,via

ythananythingelse,

r o m a f a i rs o S t at e a t e r

andabroad.

eenhim atNairobi,

ew tosett l ingtheroute,

means,andarranging

also thisuni ue

throughabeauti ultropi-

eeto f icia lly t i l lh is

einNovember.

ntinsightsee ingthere

mbarkedonthe

romKampala'sport,

aonLak eVictoria, w hichis

RiponFalls,the birth

inav io lentstormo

vening,butluckily

eenpitchedw ellbe orethe

thevariousloadsand

w ellundercoverandpro-

er romtheGovernorthat

our irstmarchearly inthe

ene tmorning.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



heRt,Hon.Winston

er-Secretaryo State

-Co l. GordonWilson, m. v .o . ,

Blue Mr. E. Marsh

Mr. A. G. Boyle , Sub-C om-

ceo Usoga Mr. S.

icer C apt. Stevenson, r. e . ,

aR ailw ayE tension

, r. e ., hissubaltern Dr.

t . R. B . K no , 4 t h Ba t ta l io n

, mysuba ltern andMr.

chill.

,determinedto

akethebesto anydi f i-

o crossourpath,and

otingthecountry thatlay

a f o r d. N o ve m be r , be i t

theyear orsport.

ghintheseasonasthe

egraphicadviceshad

emoresportingdistricts

o burnthelonggrass,

Theconse uencewas

e,comparedwiththe

nmyreturn ourney in

eter onegallant

isutmost,putting

yinconvenience

mearlymorntilldewy

echase, andmetw ith


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



w ard orhissevere

chalongared-brown

ethrougheverlasting

ptotwenty eethigh,

bygigantic oresttrees

lowersinnumerable,

ndinsectli e , w ecame

mp— atinyclearingon

rroundedbyaneat ence

aringhuts, bothlarge

asi bymagicduring

dbythelocalchie

portiono theroad.

usedas asitting-

w enty eethighby orty

acaciapo lessunk inthe

thesamemateria lboundto

k thew holethatchedand

o longgrass, carebe ing

ewindowsallround or

ir. Ahouseo thisk indis

picalrain storm,provided

averysharpslope. All

spattern, thougho course

ms,werelittlelarger

ewasalso aguard-

Allourcampswere

inanyo themthere

accommodatesucha


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hedin atwinkling

rty soldierscomprisingmy

me400porters

ariousloads each

mpactas possible,and

bs. Theporters

ding-tocustom.A ter

edby thecook thatnight

w atch uleyeo the

oom,theheadmentold

e t ch i r ew oo d r o m th e

erstogoanddraw water

ew tohe lpgenerally in

mainderweredismissed

emselvesandthe irpalson

orunup these

busheswerehollowed

estiedtogetherat their

o o r m a o u nd a ti o n o r

throw nanyhow ontop—

recinctso thecampw as

sso aco lonyo beehives.

ourp.m.came

tiveshadbeenw arned

somany loadso oodto

chadatesuccessively,

te citementinvariably

th e p o sh o o r o o d

wouldwranglewith

hadhal asweetpotato


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



MusawouldhitHamis

rhadbeengivenall

merhadonlypotatoes

bly term inate in uma

gngthe lo t!The irst

lyresultsin ascrim-

nhavebeendraw n rom

likelyhave never

e,muchlessbecome

oonastheygetshak en

withoneanother,and,

w hitemanisn'ttry ingto

the ir ood, theycarry

ay indayout, uite

aboursrewardedwith

enluckyenoughto

everitmaybe.

seea llthemenw ho

esemenareparaded

theirdi f erenthead

seso everare ew , a

o u nd t o b e su f e r in g r o m

rompainsinthe l itt le

tng. Tobeasuccess ul

pleitis necessaryto

thertastesvery nasty

ct. It 'snotabito good

s,whichdo neither.

loseall aithatonce,

willverylikelystay


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ysidevillage.However,

hisoccasion,andI

.

ok esandmerry ests,

nsontopicalsub ects

scenceso ourclever

lytillbedtimecame,

edintothatwholesome

e ercise.

hatin ernalbuglewould

odressandpack upin

hastybreak astbycandle

start ingontheday 'smarch.

o l i e tow hichwe

med,growing itterand

marched urtherand

ey .

igsandas happyas

ghsomeo ushadour

me,whilstothershad

m le a ve o n a n ew l e as e o l i e

ever,inspite o

on't ancymanyo the

greatlongingtoreturnto

ndthepleasuresthereo .

dtell,

t o r he ll


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



a n d se l l,

be ll,

hek nell,

ce ll,

be lle,

wh o e l l,

atick!

chwesaw nogame. As

asnota ltogethersorry , as

shape,andtherewere

edand heapso work

aysthecaseat the

longtrek . Wehad or-

o thebarga in, ande tra

besent or.

thelocal chie was

ary letter, andrano to

ter, trave ll ingtosuchgood

oresarrivedin the

orethene tearly start.

es, ood,crockery,etc.,

e couldbeobtained

orbitantpricesw hich

tthemoredistantout-

evoyaginga longdistance

herewouldnotbe

eboatsto tak eanyo the

hadhadtobediv idedinto

sentuse , andtheother or

urney tobesentonbe ore


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



yo porterstomeetusat

mourviewhereby

o liageand oresttrees

mtheriver. Butthe

watersservedasa lullaby

chbackcourse

tmorningtil lw egotonto

nitemergedto a

ndshortishgrass,whilst

ra lcon ormationo the

latter.Anothertwohours

s - iono habita tions.

centtodrierground,

utintoa well-kept

eesand shambas or

eproceededthemore

vatedgrewthe land.

riant ie ldso sw eet

reentobacco , o ye llow -

o mai eandmillet,

plants— a lldiv ided rom

ptpaths,eachhedged

ntintheir bright

mahogo,whilst

eregroveso bananas

e r en t s pe c ie s , a e w c lu s te r s

nishthegrotes ue, and

ants.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



eredinthe ie lds,

ingroups uponthe

ostpart inw hite . * 'Otiano!

edin passing,and,

so spectators,we

aceprepared orour

pegoldenbananas

sasigno w elcome,

etpotatoes,enormous

beer, smallnative ow ls,

st butnotleast,a

etty littlebask et. Tw o

eirsomewhatthick

honourtothe banana

se uenceslightly

agedtoshowthemselves

egenerallyvery

thegrassinthem

teraw hile ispulledup

aroundeachbanana

manureemployed.

whichverysoon

okslike ahugeand

en.Thisandthe breaking

, w hichgrow readily, w hen

shambaistheonly tending

makeitgrow vigorously

ye llow buncheso ruit

e lonc^ orreen ronds.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



sin bananaplanta-

trees, ak indo ig. As

w hichtheclo thismade

arewrappedroundw itha

es,inordertopreservethem

omotetheprocesso re -

k maybeemployed

e o c l ot h u nt i l th e t re e i s o u r

arulethesametree is

or threetimes.The

thick coarsecloth, butthe

er ua lity .

ntedtobaccowhichat-

hree eet, andcucumber-

ds orthemakingo

s,spoons,etc.,areuniver-

s.

roupso huts,green

shadyvillages,andasmil-

enchantingpicture,and

w ayover irmredclay

anagroves.

t o llowedane ua lly

i uepleasuretosit in

bananagroveandwatch

angingshadows,whichthe

hrouorhthethick oliatre

An almostghostly

onlyatt imesthemighty

theydreamed. The


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



rgebats litthroughthe

ednight- ar l iessilently

lutteringbehind bluish

argeglowworms,and

mbregarbarealmostinv isible

so thenight. Adeep

isw a tedoverthe aceo

lagethan usual,it

o raguidetoreporta

atingthatit ispractica lly

marchanygreatdistance

knowthatthisis

toobtainanopportunity

ge inagooddrink ingbout

a lbeer lavouredw ithbananas.

LakeVictoriabrought

ationontheNile

mportantlittleplace

broadroadsbrancho f

sothelocalsteamer

ardw ork toper orm in

e ight— chie lyproduce— to

ictoria,asteel

eralenormousdug-

onedw ithchise land ire

a orestgiant, comprised

urselveslikesomany


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



eeachandall o the

astagainstit,uncom-

hmanyo usw erecompara-

er,wesoon oundout

kes,andour con ined

conducivetocamaraderie

hookdownand

nd washingup.This

art,asa plateorglass

thew indow atone 's

erwithouttheslightest

omthewaterspotless, w hilst

herest,andonewas

urseonthemenu.

erydayabout

todineandsleepashore.

cetoprepareagood

storeo resh . '* ) eggs

k oodthatwouldbe

y orbreak astandlunch.

ryhead- uarterso a

ailwaySurvey,andhere

heKing'sA ricanR i les

em. LieutenantC lothierand

charge,thelatter none

tso evercontractedduring

untryaround.Living

ntmarshes orthegreater

snotconducivetothebest

eedstobeasstrongasa


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ndit orlong, nomatter

he ercisehetakes.

,whohadbeen

andmyescortremained

snoplace orthemin

boats.Theywould

kthroughlittle-known

ers, mappingasthey

ourneyonthewaterwas

wingbetweenhighpapy-

nto abroadlagoon

sandothera uatic

titudeso duck , andan

gsleepilyaboutonthe

ish. A tersometw oor

ihil lonourrightand

trancetowhich is

w eedsand loatingblocks

detachedby the orceo the

daccumulatedtosuch

eaveritablenuisance. We

erytwohoursorso in

buncheso w eeds rom

ldrevolvemoreandmore

aboat-hookandthe

s, a large lumpo w eeds

tbehind loatingastern,

nveniencebygetting

ow rope, ande tracting


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s



eengineer,tosaynothing

pletives.

r voyage,notbyany

addit iontothe loating

d,shallowshadtobe

knowntoe ist.

dourwatery ourney,

morning,steaminghard

mpinthe la tea ternoon.

housesbuiltready orus,

heshapeo oodawait-

tthatthe uestiono

absurdityand saved

nreachingeachcamp,

possibletoget inthe

ark . C onse uentlyw ehad

ungleandpick upa

venanumbero pigeonsto

hard, toughmutton. In

heepthat iskilledin

nishedatnight a ll, o rit

anconsumptiononthe

rm mutton servesto

aboot-leather- l ik econsist-

dtoswallow attheeven-

swampylakesand

e inaga in. ustbe ore

eonepassesthemouth

vrgrow nsodense ly thatone


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s



nlessitwerepo inted

backwaterthelaunchwas

tsw iththe irpreciousburdens

savageswadingwaist

helowcausewaywhich

ier.Mr.Anderson,

hisdistrict— parto Unyoro

ew asaguardo honour

R i lesaw ait ingus, draw n

mmando Lt.Thompson,

tillweembarkedon

therivertoMruli l ive

ives,calledBukedi.

di f erentsectionsorsub-

are riendly , buttheother

avingbeenbroughtinto

,areun riendly.Dora,

t h e ad a c en t r i en d ly d i vi s io n s,

hsomeeighthundred

ullyadornedw ithpa intand

medthemselvesupinto

ndsingingalternatelyin

techie w hohadcomeall

meetthem,andthem

ttleornothingo

erinhabitants,outsidehis

hatanyvisitor hemay

sarrivedsimplyand


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s



SEC TIONOF IHEBUKEDI


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s



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s



rac uaintance.A

e, romMr. Churchil lputthem

dapresento tw oor

usyeatingthe greater

twasMasindi,some

etrekkedthrougha

ountry,theroadbeing

pin,andborderedon

rassand stuntedtrees.

elephantground,but,

hantshadsoughtgreener

w duringourshortso ourn

r la t eet, though

arry ing-chair ort ired

hllrodea bik e — the

uenthill , a l lowingo this

and,onreachingthe

ulddismountandmarch

ay's ourneyw iththe

contributednota little

theda ily round themarch

inutesliterally lewas

esand yarns,anddis-

ma ororm inorimportance.

so tenasnot,continued

hesunsetdrink incamp

memberthesub ecto

Churchillgaveus his


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s



en, be ingre uestedtote ll

it , w ehadasecond

usre uest orhisow n

t orththemostin-

issertationo the lo t.

emarch wasgot

inge ertion,andone

at times,being

f shootinga tertentshad

n inished.Therewas

ever,astheever-

rnt,and, beyondbag-

w landpartridge, oure er-

ornothing.

ht.Wehadbeen

hillallthatand the

itt ingthesun-dried ungle

dureo cult ivationw asa

goodto indonese l inthe

theCollector'shouse,

stablesbearino^cool

edourcampinano ld

ywhereamongstthe

ees,underthe shadow

stling, sweet-smellingblue

adeampleprepara-

nt,andherewepicked

omemailssinceplunginginto

omarchdue north


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s



rroutehavingbeenchanged

mightobtainaview

henativeshadnot, in

suddena lteration, hadsu f i-

dwayproperly,so,on

w ocamps, theroutinew as

sisttobuildourhouse.

gone 'sownarchitect, and

f ortsturnedouta ter-

hroughwild and

y.The unglewas

sgivenup tothelarge

roamatw ill inthee le -

orest.Theseanimals

tusk sinthisparto thew orld,

etoshootthem.This

onallysavage,becausein

untryacertainper-

tgeto f w oundedand

ndbeasttilltheyare

tunatehunter.Theyhave

ed orchargingonsight

rydangerous.

leared,theroad

ssableinplacesby

o ledorow tho erass.

mposinghe ightandgreat

hemselvesbetweenthe

little to thedi f icul-

there isanaccumula-


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s



low so thecrroundveee-

elmingabundance one

econsiderablestrength

rough andit ishotto

thick ets, inw hichtheodouro

hthestrongper ume

i eappearstodieout

sduringtheheato theday

tringo thebirdsorthe

heelephant,sothatone's

outhattheoccasiona lrush

eitherhandbetoken-

heavybodyo somew ild

tened romone's ootsteps

and presses orward

space.

soonerdoes

erlightuponthegrass

e , nosoonerdo antastic

traveller,thantheland

e. There isarustl ing

e ll isbrok en theanimal

,thesecondnightout

campedunderthe

ehighesthil l inthe

merry.Wasitnot

C hurchill 'sbirthday and

rderstosurpasshimsel


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s



ATMASINDI


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s



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s



n io h t o a l l ot h er s I t w as

roundina llthe chop

nearthsomethinge traspecia l

n.Everythingwent

lledhimse l innotgett ing

lovelyv iew romthe

hil landda leandglade

ngsunatourback s

udso thickmist,till

uponoureyes—

omethirtymilesaw ay

shable .

asdread ullysteep.

smallescarpmentstill

below,but eventhen

nd downwardsthrough-

tsel ,moreover,was

sotheun ortunateporters

glater thanusual,

what.

edgeo thelast

downtotheNile itsel ,

someeighthundred eet

noramalaystretched

egroundtheblueriver—

tour eet, leckedw ith

eFa lls, w hoseroararose rom

i tlyonwardthroughits

st interm ingledwithpark


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s



ybluew oodsand

untry tothenorth, w hilst

seenCongoMoun-

do^esagainsta

est.

adbeenprepared or

thechie , amesKago

manyWagandaare,he

ames. The unnyo ld

notroubletomakeus

gso arastodecoratethe

apyrusandlargebunches

ternoonthew holepartywent

isonF a lls romabove. This

'sw a lk, butun ortu-

ow asunabletogoand

n. Herew ele tLieut.

bertwobehindaswe

otherrivervoyage.The

o anothersteam- launch,

anthe Victoria,

hweretowed,one

ppeddownthe Nile

t, the amesMartin,

baggage,andthenthere

GoodIntent inthe

Marshslept,towed

scapingthenoiseand

helaunch.Moreover,

mingallnight,this


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s



heirbeingdisturbed

totakeourturnat

etheengineertook

repose.

nthepearly lighto

dhadaslight contretemps

hichwouldk eepon

nthisbackwateror

ry , rommid-streamone

iew o theMurchison

awayuptheriver, and

esechoingdownthe

poshadbeenshotthe

harplook outw ask ept or

n casetheyhadgot

inorinortheriveronthe

heentranceto Lake

toland orluncheon.

e carryingtrade or

sideo the lak ebetw een

nd romthe latterplace

ceamonthtoNimule ,

s ortheGovernment.

course duenorth,

rsteamingsome our

e . Thisisthe irst

builtabouta mileand

bank onthehighestground

Manaraw asaw aitingus


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s



rivedabout7 p.m.,

g, en oyedana l resco

emoon. Directlya ter-

n.We weremaking

pendacoupleo daysin

dn'ta f ordtow astea

eed ul.

ana ll-n ight ourneysaw

morning. Thisusedto

militarystation,till

tgreatlosso l i ecausedthe

Builtat irstcloseto

oddistanceback,its

ved,tillnowit isonly

atetelegraphstation.

soon.

passedo ldBe lgian

tNilepostin Emin's

oresttrees,through

endown-andswamp-

owmud-banks,and

ata crocodile,wepur-

eringheat,tillatabout

backwaterandsallied

hreeparties.Mr.

Fishbourne,and

ngineer, ormedone

yanother whilst

ogether.Weall


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s



53

THENILE


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s



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ections, andarrangedtoturn

ecametomak e or

tooneanother.

ed orlessthanhal

oss asingletuskertrek-

nhisw ay presumably to

rgreenoughto

him, atleastso Ithought.

f , andcontentedour-

orthemen.

hthe newsthathe

phant,whichhad

nknockeddown,and,

gain, hadbeen looreda

hbadlywounded,he

dhisescape,and on

onelintendedto ollow

m.Thethirdparty

wtheyhad seena

tance,and,on approach-

stumbledupona

s, and,asitwasgetting

dperceivedthem,but

uietlyandcontentedly ,

tocampandleave

citementreigned

t.Each partyhad

countrysideseemed

hem, w hilstMr. C hurchil lhad


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s



whichit wasstrongly-

be therareBurchell's

remade orne tday

ngourstay urther

ed everybodywas

sametime in act, it

gettobed, thereseemedto

epartiessall ied orthin

erday,sothat each

athehadseentheday

r ch e d a r b e o r e we

ingintoabig herd

tyorseventy , chie ly cow s

tryhowwewouldin

notdistinguishany

ecardsthattheyw ere

heherd, andtheclimbingo

hrow any urtherlight

onwhethertherewere

However,wehung

heherd, t i l lacrashingon

uswarningthatw ew ere

ethoughtittimeto

notherhour'sw ork w ehad

small bull,andso

dtryourluck urther

alkedanddidno good,

dtimeto gooutagain


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s



ona terw iththe

mallbull.Wewereall

shethoroughlydeserved

hepersevereddaya ter

makea collection

ghisstay inA rica .

urnedupwithhis

crossany elephant,

ginga inespecimeno

mal,thewhiterhino-

tthisenormousbeast

nctinthesouth,numbers

earsago , sothe act

ghbourhoodwasamost

o clearup.Mr.

hesamedirection

hingasmall riseinthe

stwoorthreeo these

andbaby,perhaps—

eeding. Takingevery -

wasa greatday

drhinobagged,

e ir a irshareo sport,

h-classsportinto the

tre o icingincampin

n'ttak eanyoaththata

w in e w as n 't b u z e d , u i ck l y

t h e ve r y i n es t o ld B . C.

earedindi f erentdirec-


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s



nd shootingbent.

theriver ortwo

hesceneo Mr.Church-

terhino, tobringin

insomesmalladvance-

sbrutesinour turn.

the animalswere

ygun-bearertappedmeon

ough,werethree o

oubto it,wandering

ernedandhappy.Ashort

,somethirty- iveyards,

mbinthe neck,but

ek-bone,Isuppose,as

causea terw a lt inground

d, pursuedbyhisa larmed

edassharpasthe thorny

ustasw ew eretoppinga

enthemallthree

mtherearbroughtmeto

erepointingto my

ysignalledthree rhino.

mto betheoriginal

lthewhilehowthey

tback so uick ly . I

how ever, anditwasonly

dgotsmall hornsand

rmerantagonist,thatit

beenwastino-valuable

adhitwassomeway


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s



nota ltogetherlost. This

d,searchhowwewould,

isspoornordisturb

t wassickening

d,so weretracedour

drhinos, whichwe

o thelaunch.One

ed,buttheothers,

mens,werenothingout

oundthatnoneo

artyhadcomeacrossany-

w edecidedtosteamdow n

ndlandintw oparties

inpasturesnew. Mr.

ett,andIstarted

w etramped ormilesand

elephanttracksand

the eveningwell

ingspenttheday in

,amidstherdso harte-

b.Itisvery strange

ndgamecongregatedto-

milesaway,nothing

ionsbroughtalong

e llow calledBil la l i , as

hhewasborn.His

erple edw ithdi f erent

ak imono, atablek ni e ,


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s



ulo aciddrops. He

meat,however,andhe

edtreasuresinhis

a lego venison.

terthisourlastshoot,

ameo ldriver, pastthe

teeringinand outo

ds, andreachedourdes-

w asdread ullyhot

f thew aterw asvery

d topourdowna

Spire,the Sub-

leProvince,metus,

andCaptainFlint,

w hilstourescorto the

terus romhereto

nupinchargeo Lieut.

manandverykeenman.

edatdinnerthat

a linthedistrictw ho

ut-stationswaspresent,

itw asthe largestnumber

erdinedatonetimein

de.

t inedtobeo long

tmorningsawthekit

re rs a n d a ne w r el a y o p r o-

seven milemarchto

eshouldhavetogether.

houtcropso uart


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s



eredwithdried-up

swerebei^innino-toburn

ortheearly ra insto

ss tospringupand

irlargeherdso catt le .

mountains,studdedover

didnotpass many

adbeencare ully

diness orourmarch.

oneo theprett iest

stayedatduringourtrave ls.

sideo theAssuariver,

Atappiriver, thew ater

omparisonwiththewarm

ow ed orsomanymiles

usualroomyhouses,

prepared orusa ll

eshe ltero some

s,whilstourdining-table,

a bu n dl e o b e dd i ng a r e on

hallowriver, andMr.

pontosomeone's

so nearcamp.In

oretusk belonoring- toa

tenroute, theproperty

diantraderswhohad

nthsin theCongo,so

gameo allsorts,


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s



onggrass, wemetnothing

etold tokeepour

hereonwards.

splacetotheUma

goodishbito cult i-

round-nuts,andmahogo,

s ta p le o o d o t h e iV t ad i

mboocountry,which

astA ricabamboos

altitudes,andherewe

and eetlowerthanthe

oundinthatparto the

game romtheroad,

stinguishedhimsel

roanante lope— ineup-

he irst i manesandlong

adew hathedescribedas

butw hichprobably

sweatedblood ormiles!

heboundary

rtribes. Thee tent

hislattertribe isabout

ver bank.Theyare

ctions.TheBariis

eral eatureso the

-likegrasslands— very

serieso undulations,

dingly inetimber— orests

nt, andmounta insrisingto

eetabovetheirbases.


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s



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s



merousstreams,which

imeo theyear, run

orinthe neighbour-

ta tadistance romthe

le.Themountainsyield

dtheBelinianBarisare

tivationiscarriedonto

utthecountry.Thecorn

Thisis usuallythe

ingratherbitter,has a

mthecloudso smallbirds

aree ceedinglyneat

eare villagesin-

roundedbya small

mentmade romtheclay

edw ithcow -dungand

ecourtsarekept

tsareshapedlike

er-workis uickly

ichdestroythewattles,

ently tenaciousto orma

appeared.The

medo w icker-work sup-

talso hardwoodor

nts the inside is

ndtheroo isthatched

houses.Barisarea

possessimmenseherds

all,activeanimalswith

evailingcolour.Like


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s



gingtothe WhiteNile,

b ectiontose lltheir

ein themidsto

esamedry scrub

e KitRiver,another

rieso theNile, now

ck le . By theKitRiver

da,atwhichwehadintended

but, indingourday 'smarch

avery shorttime,we

etalong moreover,

erymomentwaso im-

Decembersaw usat

chwasthroughmost

ullydrycountry,the

rybeingbrokenonlyby

lin ianHills.

ononlynearthe

astheso ilw aspoorand

a irly clearv iew o the

inginherdsonthe

ativeboysandmen

wasper ectlycleared,

f thegrassti lla ta litt le

thas agardenlawn.

pied,thecountryin-

ebaseo themountains

hisstretchabounded


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s



o themounta insw ere

hugegraniterocks,the

nta insthathadlongsince

rongpositionswere

erhaps,thirtyorso

ntheheightsalong:the

butatthisseasononly

rev isibleabovethehigh

ipening,althoughthe

tcommenced.

hin avouro native

urra , w hichper ectly con-

thosepassingthroughit

rogress.

possibletoconvert

ricansavagesintodis-

dbethe mostrapid

ureciv il i a t ion. The

ce, order, industry , anddis-

ingandcleanliness,is

uiredtobringasavage

odmanagement.A

anduntutoredli e

tybe oreanygreat

ioncanbee f ected.

learnstorespecthis

io rs thusasavagew hohas

mhiso f icers, whomhe

uicklyadopttheir

ligedtoadopttheirmili-


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s



sinEastA ricaand

nssimplybecausethey

o f icersthatgood

evers.

ourtravels,butI

I h a dn ' t go t i t o f m y

thelocalblack

rotoreceiveus —

art, a rmedw ithKudu

sty noises,andclothed

beengot together

panywithCaptain

dDr.Pritchard,ran

ertainedusnobly

relatedtousa gruesome

oot, tw odayso ld, inw hich

arerhadbeenkilledbythe

n-bearerwasavery

ortunate lyhadbeencaught

a tertheanimalhadbeen

angehowit'salways

tontheseoccasions!

orlunch, andinthe

erspa idup, andmadea ll

rreturn ourneyw ithDr.

torsand Ihadour

awayontheDal, aSudan

thadbeensentupto

ytoKhartoum.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



ENAT GOX DOKORO


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



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s



ron,o theEgyptian

e ormertohe lpuson

ernoro Mongalla.

ao a voyagedownthe

ationo a ew incidents

betheremaindero our

llorder,ason

lre uesto theBelgian

use lves dow ning sw eet

ike6.45inthemorning !

a terw ereachedMon-

erongaveusan

nceonitw ouldbesome

etanotherEnglish ace.

hedthesharpbendsin

atdinner,Mr.Marsh

mps.Withoutany

thebank,bumping

roundacorner. Be ore

theshiphee ledoverto

a oresaidgentlemanwas

everythingwas lung

verw helmedw itha

ndknives,roastmutton,and

ttledbeerand gravy

thiscameourse lves, andthe

kesurehehadall he

b!


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s



acesonTongaIsland

au i k ia w e s to p pe d o r a n

rs. Gray 'sw aterbuck

sroundhere.It was

thee ceptiono adistant

bor two,whichwespared,

nuedour ourney to

ik ia orle ttersanddinner.

horein themorning

thew s, theGovernoro

nghimbackto break-

arranged orthe Mek

oco llecthismenintheir

ct ion, buttherew assucha

hatvery ewwould

orcedtocontentmyse l

standingonone leglik e

stic o thesesavages.

sswhichtheywearis

ownhairplastered

smattedand worn

ncy . It isthencare ully

riverw esteamedintoa

aceca lledMeshraZera ,

ootinglinehad been

asoneo thebestplaces

ormed,andshikariswere

.

provedrathera ailure


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



w hosall ied orthto-

ceptiono atinyherdo

w esaw noother our-

aringhome, how ever, w e

resenceo thousandso

estionthatweshould try

rMannlicherri les,

hdue rewardand

his showedthat

t,whichwasamply

onourmakinga resh

ourhood, w ecameona

redcob,whichboltedin

edacornerin thebush.

andk nock eddow ntw o

t,whilsttheyweregoing

uick ly o llowedbyanice

ed,anda secondalso

e taga in. Notsodusty !

eenalittle inclined

erup toridicule,and

ccasionhe lunghis

Now Ibegintoseethe

o rt ! H e wo u ld m a ke a t o p-

thetimetospare . C o lone l

da lsohadtheir a ir

ddition tiangand

ttwodays'shootinginthe

hepa insthathadbeen


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



no Khartoumto

thisaccounto my

downtheNile.Wehad

rip romeverypo into

eright wehadn't

ropo ra in thew hole

with thesmooth,with

semblanceo agrumble

ankeveryone.Short-

eedtherealwaysare,

d amilies— oritw asa

he storesandlegislate

etobeobtainedenroute .

beensingularly

anydescriptiontil lthevery

hePa lacestepsatKhar-

dsarenecessary in

r.Churchill'svalet,who

a ith ully orsomeyears,

ersand hardships

suddenattacko

verylastnight o the

ad, andput uiteadam-

Thoughhehadsprained

back,hewasalways

eda complaint.

ulending.ButI

tripmoreorhadmore

orkwith.

rowless!


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ithout irst

retty ante-

oksvery

snoto uite

orecoarsely builtthan

o whiteonhisbelly,

yesisl ight aw ninstead

hisclose lya ll iedcousin—

theSudan.Thehorns

gbackwardsandout-

orwardagainatthe

urseveryclose ly rela ted

he isnoconnectionat

it isastrangethingthat

Ugandatotakethe

allahne tdoorinEast

threeor ourdoes, or

marshygroundatnogreat

andw hena larmed, o f they


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



grass, nowandthen

ospyupononeandsee

them.

ll overUganda,

onestanimalintheProtec-

severalvery nice

uriver, somew ay rom

tybig andagainup

truckme asbeing

they areneithervery

icious.

orstandingonthevery

there isoneanywherenear.

alkingalong,and,not-

amours ormeatonthe

, hadmadeupmymindto

addidnotseemparticu-

nderedon, climbedup

andperchedhimse l

edo thesettingsun,

toomuch!Noteven

stedthetemptation.

theair, andhelay

ow.

enty- ourinchesisa

otgrow verymuchbigger

thisspeciesareo ten

one isnever uitesure

areallyverybigone, and

icult, evenw iththea ido


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s



GARDENS


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



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s



thebestheadina

opinion,amostuse-

avinglocatedthew ho leherd

deone'sstalk towithin

sablebymeanso itto

ilsttheri le isinaposi-

o tatonce, w ithoutthe

uttingdownone'sglasses

e , w hichmaymeanlosing

onorsttheremaindero the

mportantadvantage

e lescopicsight. When

onew ishestok il lh im

rnghim. Thisinstru-

oreaccuratelythan

singtheopenV

brecentlyonthe

nthemiddleo avery

ass.Therewasn'tastick

Allwecould dowas

n single ile,alltalking-

adswentupas we

still,watchingusand

romourapparentdis-

havethoughtwewere

oasto deceivethem,

dshoot at,asitwas


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



rm inew hicho thesecarried

gin abitand

ourwind,and Imanaged

erd. Ugandacobarepretty

ating.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



l.

ebaggingo my

ratheramusing,

ctlyimproperly

atannoyanceto

mymentobitter

north,whilststillin

so abigherdo

thtwogoodbullsin

eupo emaleswith

-grownbulls.Large

v isitthisparto the

ason,becausethegrass

naman'sshoulders,

utwithgreaterease

rassdescribedelse-

plenti ullysprinkled

dshrubs,so itsgeneral

mpressiono anEng-

rgesca le . It isa top-^

asit isverydi f iculttobe


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s



Onecaneasilysee

grass. But, o course ,

emiddleo aherdune -

bea litt le tooe cit ing!

locatedtheele-

es, whow eresoldiers rom

yingmy ood-and-

woothersw itha es, etc. ,

mmycamp, andatabout

rear-guardo the

uttwentycowsandyoung.

mehowperchedhersel

w nant-mound, notasa

w as uietly eeding. We

windsoastok eepw ellclearo

ytookalarm— whatat

d.Thenwecameacross

l , butw evotedhimtoo

o wendhiswayin

w ithhisdestructive

themaincrush.

ytramplingdownthe

rhighroad orusa long

sweprogressed

thedungin ormedusw e

t lastwemadethe

owlyalongintwo or

stheyw ent.

nowononeside,


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s



tlittlewindtherewas

atthishouro themorning.

timetospare,andwe

setothemuntil we

obigcustomers. Then

lydisappearedalto-

aranysound inthe

ewtheymustbesome-

ow camethetick lish

heshi t ingw indIw as

t an d i n di n g my s el s l ap i n

bo il ing w hichiswhat

adspreadoutabit,

d,untilsuddenlywe

thick o them. Butsti l l

pseo e ithero thetw o

mmonthing, by the

ngbullstoseparate rom

theyear, eedingvery

rtw odays' ourneyaw ay

edbyanoldcowor two,

dre o iningtheherd

da y s o t h is h e rm i t -l i ke

obullswerea

en, oneo myorderlies

usgreat ellowabout

other sideo aclearing.

eo — onemanse i ing

pushingmeinthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



odpart.One's

edatthemerethoughto

pt totakechargeo

bberawayatoneanother

asn'tthere . Nevermind!

sonthem! Nowitwas

stw henthedev ildrives,

ul unk atbeingshoved

emiddle o thewhole

ri le— myMannlicher—

wedmethat,butthey

se oranythingelse.

!It wasasorto

ghto us, cowstothe

g 'u n i n r o nt ! A n d th e y

ring,i.e.makingthe

notescontentmentand

elittleones,so the

s s th e a t e u l o n e, a b ly

w iththeheavy ri le—

twouldhappeni a

dand perceivedus,

e act, w ewerebangin

ngherd— w henthew orst

oungbull,whowas

dn't,tookitinto hishead

rommy le trear. This

nd,andIhadto take

n st e r in r o nt , n ow s o me i t y


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



driveatthisobno ious

ethepreciousbo asto

rwhowascarryingi t

stucktohis load

e llthebull, n ippedin

6bulle tbetweentheeye

e i edtheheavy ri le ,

themidsto the ear-

hichthereporto theri le

undedbyabouteighty

whomaredashing

directions,crashing

rythingtheycome

d— amostawe-in-

uinthemidst, e cessive ly

,nothinguntoward

rightsubsided.All

hadvanished orever

ndonecouldhearthem

mileaway . Itw asuse-

mptatpursuit, so Isadly

i teenmeasuredpaces— to

thisdeathin hispal's

s Ihadthoughtin

emoment, andw henhis

veraged52lbs.apiece.

u d ge o a n e le p ha n t' s

ceptionallybig.Inthat


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



abouttwo-thirdsshow

ashortishthick tusk ,

isv isibleoutsidethe

sk beginsbehindthe

thit so , i there isno

eastlycowskickingabout,

agoodlook through

one istakingonabig

lso tenw ander

elittledistance rom

pnow andaga in ora

sto locatethemw hen

themselves, orthen

ne'seyeballscontinually

orabad-temperedcow,

hopunawares,and

utastheyarea lw aysmore

verydi f icult o rthe

ina terhehasbrought

ereabouts.

y sick indeed, w il lvery

byhispa ls. Onegetson

theysupporthistottering

a longmeanwhile andit

theymakethrough

s.

bullgo ingaway rom

ncheseither sideo

say thirtyyards itrak es


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s



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s



angle upwards,i one

n,islikelyto getthe

m.

k edagreatbigbull

ssiveshotsin thehead,

s a w hi m b ei n g he l pe d o b y

oresaid heputin

nd, andeventhenhadthe

nghim. Theelephantgot

thenativeso that

vorythieves,could

p histusks.

riend, o llowingupa

schargedbyhim and

ead— toohighthough

tuck my riendinthe

nsei edhimroundthe

roceededtousehim

him romsidetoside ,

thhis unconscious

tale,however,how

ewhodivedinand

mal's l itt leMary .

holesavage! The

er,andone hearso

hicharemostlytrue

etruth inthemthan

hantsatthe south

ry longthintusk s, uite


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



yothertusks.Northo

uriver, throughUganda

uskerisagoodone —

rthosewhosetusk s

iece a terw hich, go ing

the Unyoroelephants

eprovince,which

gto ahundredand

sk.

ksalsoattainvery

ingbyconvoyso C ongo

Uganda orshipment

ve lydi f iculttoobta ina

othersideo theNile,

acreso v irgin orest

ngwithourvaluablelong-

ch iner ua lity than

lowedtoshootcows,

pacow 'stusk stheyare

ment.Theyarevery

rthanthoseo thebull.

irtypoundsw ouldbe

nUgandaorin the

venpoundsweight

inedandhav ingthe

now inBrit ishEast

sbeenraisedtosi ty

amepenaltyattached


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s



nderthisw eight so it

dtoshoot atinybull

-de ence, theybothcount

onlyareallowedoneach

oreonee lephantispractica lly

, shothisbull— a

,immediatelya terwards,

e , andw enthomeangry .

being-con ronted

thatasecondcow had

the ormercow . P resum-

thechargingcow had

denbehindsome long-

y thedeatho the

ounted or.


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s



MAN

lt ormetodescribe

ethemtogetherand

rw ardsacrosstheriver

and,indeed,Khar-

oneso arastradeand

knowntotheoutside

a lo theSudan.

her, how ever, itw il lbe

thatthedescriptionwhich

rstimpressiono theplace

estrangeratthe

tthere orebe orgiven

now,butstillwould

saw it,asit wouldbe

-daywithtwoyearsago.

Khartoum, and rom

routethatI actuallydid.

dtombs,magni icent

andgoneciv ili a t ion, w ould,

ndously butIwished

place romthesouth— by

tuallytake— andnot


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s



> ' 3 '

3 ' 3' 3 '3 3 ' 33 3 '3

M


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s



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s



C airo inacom ortablera ilway

st,andhavemy soul

dragomans, agentso a ll

peoplewhoinsiston

sproper orderby

ll,tohaveeverything

inedbysomewalking

al tohear.Ilike

rmysel andasking uestions

e.

goodshipDal

oumappearedindue

iteminaretso the

enoddingheadso the

hichmakeo ita love ly

tthesandy,burnt-up

theriveris ull

durmanhoveinsight on

meanthenearside.

s oramoment rom

ttentionisaltogether

thelateDervish

Mohammedan anati-

rstsighttobeaninsigni i-

utsonthe le tbank a ter

w orivers, theBlueand

easures— and, in act,

me,sowe'llhave adig


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



ythepalacethere,

,o whichmoreanon,

rv ishrule , w as ought

r, 1898. Inthosedays

reorlessthan amass

nhousessetin abarren

stroyedbyorder

e livedamongstthedebris

emo Brit ishmicrhtand

time. Allhadgoneto

lmtrees whichhad

eneraldestruction,and

hebeautieso thiscity .

el Mahdiandthe

gnedsuccessivelysu-

tersw ereshi tedoverto

evenshort years

chaos inKhartoum.

s !

thits beauti uland

ens, stands orth, tow ering

ontheoriginal site

theo lddays, butla rger,

y thano yore. The

gsw avetoand ro

mpartingasenseo security

ndings.

ebank so theBlue

loods orw hichthis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



tportiono theriver

withmasonry.Astone

romthe landing-stageand

cinctso thepa lace ,

hsentry isthe irst

goodandreliable,but

eway.

er,andis builtwith

da gardencourtyard

thecoolestandmost

veeverstruck inthe

duetothekindness

cupants.

hall,thewallso

ancesandvariousguns,

hegardensbeyond, andas

ehouseabove,onesees

sspreadoutbe oreone.

erthehotvoyagedow n

la idout orcro uet

low ers, black w atde in

kindso shrubs, everyvarie ty

d unglevegetationmeet

ndpeace ul.

se I o rgethimaea in—

Balaenicipsre ,the

ate.Heseemstolike

k en, orhestands uite

andhe isevenniceron

bearthecoolmarshy


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



shimsel inalittle

so whichthewater

arden, butpre ersto

dry gravel.This

meisinthe sudd

le . He loveshisk eeper

hisdisgust onone

sremoved,thathevery

esuscitatedin thenick

eper'sreca ll romdurance

ace.Thebird'smanner

e c ti o n is b y o pe n in g h is a ws —

k— showingagreatred

andiblesathis keeper,

hecompliment.

ain!Allthe river

ouses,whichare

icia ls, civ ilandmilitary ,

apictures uebutpla in

architecture,andaremost

sto themaresmothered

ma prettyandhomely

tositin byday,and

ne 'sbedbynight, he lptok eep

eace ulinthew orsto

esehousesboastso a

wallkinds and

e llasmasseso low ers,

enotmany inbloomat

dleo thedryweather.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



ardenhasitslawno

moothandshortand

omtheNile every

temo canalsand

tw iththe sak ia , o r

arge,clumsy,creaking

ndingupanendless

ached thewholething

andersroundin a

is buckets— which

has theyappearone

ely,usuallywithhis

eeponhisyoke.

seato theGovern-

thecountrypasses

WarO f ice , thePost

donC o llegearea ll inKhar-

hilstbehindthemare the

ndrunbyGreeks or

say, allthegoodones

,laidoutinthe

ck , a llma inroadsleading

standsupwell outlined

. The manonthe

dtoimpressthe Arabmind.

onder ullyinthe

w ing, butthatischie ly

dthesystemo leases,

seo theGreek trader.

kwouldbe likebread


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s



tiveo India,the

money.Whocould

ruinssuchashortt ime

or o ll iersurroundings

yearso one 'sli e in,

mesa long

oca lsandstorm, isa

ppears,orrathersur-

thenight. Ik now

ldinmy Indiandays, but

uck y i they last or

hartoumtheygoon or

metimes. oumay

vice, closethewindows

he ooto thedoor,

d, asverysoona

lhavesett ledovera ll, w hilst

hutupissti l ing. F or-

susuallycome romthe

come romtheoppositedirec-

umNorth,straightopposite

eBlueNile , churnedup

yanddock yard eet, w ould

palling.I'ma raid,

ike toglossover

gn haboobs intoob-

beparticularlybadin

eriencedatinyone

eanideao w hatthey


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s



e inKhartoum

keys.Theridingdonkey

hartoumandOmdurman.

oumwasmade orthe

wayround.Donkeys

emillionso them, all

ewhere. oumeetlong

w, black e llows, some ellows

incheso theground

orinimmaculatepo lok it

bestriding— Ishould

eyo sorts, andbe ing

hastodois to

hereroundtheeyesor

goeslik esmoke. The

movingbymakingnasty

butI wishtheywouldn't

e animals,besides

nthepoorbrutes linch

ordon College,

oneo England'sgreatest

nso thenotablesin

p inthewaythey

theadministrationis

ice , animposing- look ing

gback romtheriver,

ace . Heretheciv iland

the iro f icesindi f erent


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



theguardis urnishedby

anbatta lions uartered

city. TheArmyo

werEgyptgenerally

up hereannually,as,

climate ise tremelydry

earablethanthemoist,

greatsystemo irriga-

0miles north.The

oute aggeration,a

ebeginningo lunchis

endo themeal. The

oyalDublinFusiliersin

ng,low,roomybarracks

ueNile,nestlingunder

theBlueNile is

orth,abusy,noisy

stlingo manyengines

amhammerdrivingrivets

esteamboats, oritboasts

dockyard.A bridge

thKhartoumproperis

on,andwhenthatiscom-

to speak,properly

.Thedockyardgoes

syearly.AH thegun-

areput togetherhere,

mourplatesbeing

. Here isa lsothe


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s



ereonecanbuyany-

erguntoa luncheon

Nile orsometwo

ththeWhiteNile , w esee

nthe le tbank . These

bya systemo tram-

mostconvenientandinvariably

sto ld— mostpro itable

h em .

nappearsasaninter-

wmudhousesstraggling

re , w ith, byw ayo ore-

angleo mastsandyards

gyassasandnuggers, w hich

sproducedowntheNile

ewholesilhouettedagainst

rnsky.Onedoesnot

thetow nnowadays, northe

tmust haveattained

til onehasmounted

eringdonk eysandhasridden

ao mudhuts, in-

s,openingontonarrow

neseemingmoredingy

racticallyall over

allyonthe outskirts,

ouses a llenouto repa ir

wnbythe rains,tillin

eoutlineo thewalls,


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s



igh, show swhereahabita -

go.Themasseso

hereshortlybe orethe

undertheKerreriHil ls,

esentday,and one

ationcouldpossibly

ptogethereven orashort

erest,Itakeit,is the

b,which,aseveryone

neby thepilgrims rom

llydemolishedbyshe lls rom

singsceneso the

ourtyard,andits

pimposinglyoverthe

pla insurroundingOmdur-

eroad ustopposite is

averyordinary look ing

dbrick s. Ithasabath-

edbath,lightedby

orderthatnoonemight

utions.Thehouseis

o f icerinchargeo

ew alledinw ithstone,

populacew ere orcedto

n hourdailytolisten

rtations, andhise pounding

oygoesthathe, be ing

ispowerinthecity, had


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s



: ^ ^ . i it inri ' i i i ii i lUM

OMDURMAN


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



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_ u s e # p d - u

s



w nparticulartribe, the

n Omdurman.They

hwhichtostand up

eremainder sothe

erviceone ineday, that

ptingtheTaaishahadto

sedittobenoti ied

proper oranyoneto

dthatthe rightthing

e irri lesandbando liers

,theysayhepreached

tday,and whenthe

onwereatlastallowedto

Taa ishadrawnupinpos-

lesandammunition. And

their owners.

-houseo theold

usedtobestored

ealth— w ea lthac uired

rwhenallothermeans

va luableproperty there in

shavebeenw orthavast

sonthe river ront,

ntainingmeat,vegetables,

centreo thetown, are

sthavebeenimmense

e arethesilver-

andnoisomedens— the

mallstoreso thethird-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



edupw iththecarpen-

dianba aar, andthe

throughoutthelength

dan, andisw orthhis

keepingline.They

marchuptheriver to

assoon astheadvance

vedatitsnew campin

humblestoreo the

dedwithallthekinds

cessaryanddearto theso l-

ua lw ork ingorderin

housesalong whatare

horough areso the

dow n andtheowner

so hisleasetobuilda

pa ino cancella t iono

going likewild ire,

assu f iced ortheres-

m romaheapo ruined

torecogni ethe

eebattalions— o Su-

dhere itw asde light ul

ugly aces. Black and

o theseasonedandsplen-

heEgyptianarmy . The

sewerein Omdurman


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



attalionso Egyptian

otheSudanese black —

oumovertheriver.

d orthem. Iw as

nmy li easIw ason

w o some ourthousand

rourarrivalat Khartoum.

mbatteries,mountedin-

ntrybrigadesw ereonparade.

tudewithwhichthey

erentandvariedevo lutions,

theymarchedand

eshorto marvellous.

w ayo addinggreater

was ortunateenough

pick o eachregiment

narilyw ell-dri lledtroops, com-

rina militarytourna-

hreedays. Aseveryman

mettletotryandwin

t orhisbatta lion, the udges

oundite tremely

hebesto suchagoodlo to

vede actlylikeso

ns in act, adescrip-

t inthemoste travagant

usticetotherea lthing.

stovercrowded

asthechurchhas notyet

owedbyade light ulrideon


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



neo thegreatbattle

omesi m ilesouto

eredallthemore

thatMr. Winston

ctedthetrip andashe

1st Lancersintheir

theendo thebattle , the

ye plained,andthe

reoureyes, beginning

tionso theprevious

89 8 , o l lo we d b y ne t

a iro outpostsroundthe

e lSurgam, withadistant

my'sentrenchments

toppedup w itharide

erethecharge took

terectedto the

hebrave21stw ho e ll in

ackatthevastlylarger

ealedinthenarrowkhor.

eoldmanwhowas in

erodeonthispicnichad

, oneo theKha li a 's

dus,amongstother

hadbeenoneo the

to Sla tininhisthril ling

ars'captivityinthe Dervish

British lagw ithun-

ealoldSudaneseare

ightlikew ildcats or


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



stheyare irm lycon-

ds uare . Togiveanother

agowegota batcho

ricanR i les, w hohad

estormingo the

by theBrit isharmy in

m.A tersomeyears

hhisnewbattalion,one o

vate— appearedatorderly

omplaint.On being

sk edi heneedbe

a ldrill onparadeany

d. Onbe ing uestioned

d romhistrouserpock et

someo w hichhesaidhe

ortheEmperorMa i-

s i t i es ! I t w as p e r e c tl y

the re uiredpermission

ghasbeenmade

sblinkingatthe sun

er ectlyhappy , sti f w ith

s, andsmartasanew pin.

toserveanymasteror

to hisability .

e llowstoservew ith, and

oothand nevera

o c h a f g o es d o wn

ppreciationbyopening

kelipsand e hibiting

blegrin romearto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



chattachedtotheir

producea lltheiramusing

orhise amination, placing

bey inghis yes or no

ildren.TheSudanese

ears,andtheEgyptians

out iveyears. The latter

ook upon. Ibe lievethe

idappearance liesinthe

ryhundredmenonly three

eing enormous,only

and societye cite-

ndKhartoumtobeset

st, the ina lmatcho

n antryteam,who

ehad beatenthecavalry

eune pectedly , w eretoplay

w erepronouncedunde eat-

topull ito pretty

watchthegameonce

well onthehard-

ndtheponies'hoo s a irly

e regiment, w homI

yedasterlinggame.

o seesomanyArab

-lookingonesatthat,

romacountryw here

bsteedwas oneo


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ylookedsolevel and

rtrot,canter,and

oop wedgedinbe-

greys.

meaballa tthepa lace ,

seshootinthe early

ashiono Khartoum

otedithotandstrong

e departedin

orOmdurman the

ua llydiedaway toamur-

e sleepingriver

orderliesand

roughtwithme

ganda orthetripwith

iththeloth Su-

heygaveus !Right

thank stothem orthe ir

ndmay thebest

whentheycometobe

!

eryearly thene t

ouse,as7.45a.m.was

t he r e nd e v o us , t o wh i ch w e

patientmoke.Up

utthreemilesw eambled,

sto tak eaction. The

as o llows. Theguns,

ytoactas retriever,

ethirtyyards romthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



htyyardsapart.There

rconcealment,butthat

muchdi f erence. That

unsoutonoursideo the

elinedabouta mile

n k.

lightingtothewater,

iock s. Ina ew minutes

and urious, gunspopping

nd.Theskywas

sand-grouseasthey

hedesert,utteringtheir

thewhile.And then

drink itw asonly or

retheyw ereo f aga in. I

h ilecomingso ar or

Ourpartyo iveguns

orty-twobirds,whilst

ong,baggedseventy-

sobad, consideringthat

l -hourorso . Then

astandthee citementso

o me n ti o n a i n al s c en e .

ore Iw ascompelledtobid

ospitabletownsthere

gardensinhonouro

Egypt,whohad

rts,si es,andcon-

sent.Governorsand


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



f s thebruta landlicen-

rtuni orms civ il ian

ck -coatsseto f by the ir

) , composedtheEuropeanpor-

w ivesathomeinaccord-

ceptthosew hohad

k indlyhostesso the

ngscene romthecoo l

arthemostnumerous

hevariousnativechie sand

sterngrarb. OldZ ubeir

urkishPasha'suni orm,

er,byanancientgreat

nservicesomeyears

oldmenandmereboys,

o therw ise , a llmoreorless

n theirways,some

dressed,amusedthem-

yo thepalacegardens.

ndbrilliantspectacle,

manw hoen oyedit

obustledaboutwith

ouror iverowso meda l

od, orahandshak e or

uringtheyearso his

tmost, i nota ll, o

andanyhow,heseemed

by arthebusiest,

outo theshowthan


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



od-byetotheplace.

our,o humanity,ando

umbledtogetherinastrange

hee treme.The

ethrongedby thedusky

imepeople,cryingtheir

mals,ors uatting

threesand ours,

busilyconcoctinga

n e t r a a r th i ng a b u sh e l o r

n ortunate indiv idual, w ho

rgain wouldturn

erpersonashadbeen

ntw hist leo thetra in

o w aterchurnedupby

,and,nearerathand,the

hew ater-whee lsturned

provideanabundanceo

thetreesandthe

reprovocativeo slumber

veningbree esrippleacross

a ircoo lenough oran

edawearytwo

hitwaslikelyto

resting romasporting

hto leaveciv il i a t ionto

aroute Ihad ustcome

y.There ore,aswe

enightit waswith


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



', > ' '

> > , > '

' j ' j j '

potted


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



thatIsaw the eathery

a lmtrees ade intothe

slendercrescento the

est.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



Asal

on romhis

seenhim

natura lsta te , so

earancebut

encounterswithhim.

nmyreturn ourney

geo theSirdar's

purchasea licenceat

orSudanGovernment

oo thepermissionaccorded

haZ era intheGame

d thisplaceonmyw ay

dhadmadea mental

vento mybeinga llowed

yreturn.

rooned by thesouth-

tbehindthere inthe

orthebestasregards

toworkmywickedwill

animalscongregatedin

ingo thedryseason.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



daboutha l amile

as araspossiblethe

f ectso themos uitoes.

l y in g o n th e b an k o t h e Ni l e,

o mybeingthere—

utiono in orm ingthe

pev iously— couldsoundablast

hispassingsteamer,and

ications.

et upandallim-

ok agoodw alk inorderto

stogetsomething or

oundations orastock-pot.

andparched theblack -

ascrack edanddusty the

dw ait-a -bitthornbushes, a

river,werecryingaloud

w hilst in landtherew asnothing

k so burnt-upgrassto

esultthatmyputties

spear-grassandwild

wedusthat waterwas

robabilityanimalli e

er,andthatc reatures

ocome romlongdistances

Mywalkround

c e pt o r g ui n ea - o wl , w it h

d,so,havingtaken

y lock s, Iremained

l withgettingevery-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ngplans orthe

metimebe oredawn, I

sshoot, hopingthat,

shouldbeableto

tothe ir eedinggrounds

and, anyanimalsthat

er laterthanusual.

ssbythe timeit

tosee, andthe irstthing-

n,a nicebullandtwo

rasta lk. Soon, how -

hem,andtheywereo f

trudgedalongin

hem upagainthrough

eyhad o inedaherdo t iang.

the morekeen,as

he la tterbe ore . I

w gotmi edup, in

lock o guinea- ow l, w ith

plyteeming,andI was

etthemgetmywindand

akingthemtakewingand

ck lingshriek s, andsogiv ing

icethattherew asdangerto

henI cautiously

vero abush, itw asa ll

sstalkingwere stillthere,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ence.Theywerenow

way,soI kepton

er, hav ingle tmyorderlies

mi ethedangero

tch ulbeasts.The

nant-heap, o w hich

theplain,and watch

ngashot ired. C loser

t imeina ilthygrime

o grass iresthatstrew ed

helittlebush,aboutas

atIhad markeddown

slowlyIraised mysel

uietlyandslowlyupgot

me!

s themoresurprised

I ancyhemusthave

rto attackmeornot

ead ully thin— ore lse

cidedwhatstrangebeast

yuponhim.

g al l op e d wi t h a w u f !

hesa ety -catcho my

tsaligned,and pull

setbehindathickthorn

romasa edistanceand

,andsowasas goodas

signa lledtotheorderlies

By theway,theroan

obeseen romthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



ttedeitherthestalk-

bo lted. Thatisvery

putthe liono f his

oncerned. Theneck shot

malon thespot,aswas

sion butitrenders

mbat.

ehimaprodin the

dhe ustmanagedtohal

rowl,soIgavehim an

im o f . H e wa s a v er y b ig

tayoungone udgingby

ly thin, poorbrute . Welaid

e spot,tooktheskin

gedit outinthesun,

withdry woodashes.

egreatpainswith

thepartwherethe

asthehair ismore

thecaseo anyother

so havetobecare-

deandout.

o mystayhereat

nteresting, asyetanother

Iwastaking round

otryandshow them

weekhereIconsidered

sinw hichto indthem.

withhis wi e,shoot-

d o inedthem or


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



e. Charmingpeople , and

sed!

w a lk edandw alked, t i l l I

dat notseeingany-

overthebestroan

reemergingouto bush

P . , w how asslightly in

eatsomething. The

ndgaveustimetocome

oness,totallyunconscious

ty, — asw ew eretherightw ay

unconcernedlyacrossour

buthemissedherclean,

simultaneously , andshe

hedischarge.Thiswas

inshemoved,likethe

her withaclodo

ymeansparalysis,

m inutes butthere is ust

troublebe orehandinthe

al.

sto whomthelion

to courtashehad

sehewasusingari le

bretotheMannlichersemployed

lagreedth^ tdeathhad

ntheneck.I was

ulle ts, andP . 'sw ereso t-

soheandIw entto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



eshandboneinherneck

nd. Allthist imeIw as

asmine, andsa idsotothe

w asadoubtw ehadourhunt

Abent-uppieceo nick e l

chwerewhatlookedlikethe

so Iroseto irst avourite

ot indanythingmore,

tobewashedand

apo torn leshandbone

tsmotheredindust

cametomeandsaid

undinsidew iththe letter

ebase, itw ouldbehis. Not

pulledoneo my

oundan H onthebase

e ata lbulle tturnedup

H clearlymarked, anda lso

tlyv isiblew here ithadnot

teralongdiscussion

etodraw thenameo

o paperconcealedinher

,althoughI shall

mydyingday,Iam

eow nero thesk in,

neherebe ore , anda lso

methattoshoota lion

e .

dup, andtoodensely

elephantgrassoverthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ent, tomak eitagoodlion

a ao,viaFatiko,

ondokoro,particularly

it , isaboutthepick o

theopenplainsround

boura ew lions but

numbersinUganda

stA rica .

nsintheGame

k o theNile, andinthe

whilstdowntheBahr-el-

r e u e nt l y se e n on o r n ea r

romthedeck so the

lonanIrrigationDepart-

sin ronto usupthe

w ositt ingonthe irhaunches

oshootthem,buthad

habitadistrict, youwill

etthem intheneigh-

antit ieso game, orw here

remostnumerous.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



AKERI

nterswithroan

urneydow nthe

again.These

dunderthehead-

theanimalisverydi f icult

ciouso l i e moreover,

gestanimalintheherdin

il lproveabull, one is

badly le tw ithaspecimen

ence itbehovesthesports-

ses behindwhenout

ndingantelopes,and

ace lik egentlemen.

ncoats,e ceptionally

, long, somew hatdrooping

u tatthee tremity , and

eepingbackwardslike

inthinbushcountry,

mallerbuckor two,

o tenortwenty


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



roanwillbe abuck,

othebargain.

di f iculttomak eout

theherd, becausethe

appearmuchlargerthan

ness incomparison

havea emale 'shead

w hichthehornsare

anthoseo oneo my

w henthetw oare laidside

tthelatter isthesmaller

s thethicknesso

esthe lengthso

e wonoverthat

atoneo the

oshoot,wesuddenly

tiona lly la rgeherdo roan

w ater, ustatthetime

wheretooroandwhat

sinatotallyw rong

ledtotheright, andthen

ndercovero aseries

kingananglewiththe

ch.Havingreachedaspot

romtheplacew herethe

s,wesat downand

atedande hortedme

httherewasloadso


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ore,theantelopeswould

e lineo bushw hich

m.However,Ideclined

sa lly uick eyesighthad

sthatadvantage, I e lt it

aceo P rov idenceto

minutesinwhichto

athwhentheyturnedup,

uldhave it— thebigbuck

ongw ithhisheadhung

li eand uiteuncon-

.Fromthesittingposture

,bang! wentmy

ow ntumbledthebuck plumb

ero theherdstood

condortw ow hilstw e

eanimal,and gloat

wouldeventuallyadorn

oolishbehaviour

eope, asanotherbitthe

tothemthatw ewere

ashightime orthemto

w,tosuccess ully

eno the ungleathisow n

behemanorbeast, behe

ureorthemightiesto animals

themonarcho a llhe

velryonthegood


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



my riendhadbeen

asagameshot.Thiswas

t o o ! It a l l go e s to s h ow t h at

w tenaciouso l i ehe

herightplace,withstand

powero themodern

roanw asinthesame

dbut urthero f In

e em i ng I r is h is m , I m a y

andnervousanimals.

gatthem— ak il lo ramiss

hemv iolentlyne tdayso

sitionsometwomiles

theyw eremetw ithbe ore

uwill indthesame

o di f iculty. Thathas

any timesinEastA rica

shraZera , intheSudan,

donthreesuccessive

miles urtheraway

temptIgotmyvictim

herdweretiang,who

smi edupw ithit, ust

erealwaysclannishwith

on'tsupposetheroan

angtodo sentry-go

uitecuteenoughthem-

hea ido anysuchlow -


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



obablyasorto mutual

nty- iveinches,

avourablywiththeenor-

nshotin theSudan

auseit wasnotlate

orthebig e llowstobe

the irst inthe ie ld

meIsaw didn'tm indthe

on, whentheyhave

getdread ully shy.

und romAbyssiniato

hencesouthtowards

theroanatGondok oro

llidus.Thismaybe

aces runintoone


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



minverylarge

andthis provedto

egree. A ine

kand whiteamongst

conspicuous.And he

e o f . Hisblack coat

ebelly,the whitespot

ewhiteeyepatches

theears,whichgiveshim

ppearlarger thanthey

avilyringedhorns,

k wardsw eep, hook ed or-

averyproudtout en-

youseehim, asI irstdid,

sta blackburnt-up

standsw ithhishead

notata ll intheaim-

chahartebeestseemsto

uttodry,a distinct


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



blewhereblackmeets

he skinisverystrik-

g.

eatonceo theimpallah

houldsay there isvery

w eenherandthe emale

nganyhorns.Bar-

racticallythe same

ies,butis notmet

redmiles urthernortho

sla tterends.

w ithinherdso rom

inthe la ttercasethebig

threeto ouryoungerones

eramongstthemore

herbuckswillbevery

tisonly theveryold

yblackon theback.

mcredit orbe ino un-

oorthreeoccasionsI

intance Iw asabletoget

emtoa f ectthepro im ity

thandotheUgandacob,

ehunted ornearit .

theNileIcame

bat ebe lAchmetAga

f icers'gamereserve

p alongtheWhite

tbank . Onthe

rsine ceptiona lly large


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ardow ntheWhiteNileor

ndsIcouldnotascerta in,

suddswampswhich

ondthe powero

oinchesisa air


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ceo theBahr-e l-

pSk abluk a, o therwise

n d o t h e Z e r a "

ern-wheeler,asall

re— andw as irstused

ous ightsaga instthe

ace urtherdownthe

mepurpose,although

ginto pant,poordear

athingherlastgasp

ttom.

ptherivera terthe

tMeshraZ era — w hich

dnowherenearthe

o llowingharda tera lettero

endespatchedtoher

eSudanCivilService,

givemeanyassistance in

iponhisboati he

sit totheBahr-el-

dw hetherhehadrece ived

ndingthebendo the

egunboatIhadbeen

whatdisconcertedto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



backingout romthe land-

onthesteamw histle

dshetiedup once

'smails onboard.

nto leav ing orhis

tar,soI wasmost

isboat ustasshehadgot

er orahoneymoon

owntheNilethan

steamwhereyouw ill ,

u,thereisroom onthe

outovercrow ding outside

at-sa e , w hichisa lsoa

rtw o. By thesametok en,

s o ne o t h e mo s t us e u l i nv e n-

peculiarto theNileand

nothing lessthana

e. Withoutthisonesu f ers

mned.

ch stationalongthe

sseveral,asmuchtokeep

bit ingoneastopreventbugs

ingintoone 's ood. Besides

icecom ortablebig

m ortw otodressinand

anuary . Itcanbevery

henthenorthwindis

theyear.

es'steamingw esto Tau-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



r-el-Zera , notariver

heC loacaMa ima, or

esudddistrict, low ing

tSirSamuelBaker

eameduptoGondokoro

Baker'sPassage,

thesudd, w herehe

wsiltedupandchoked

athave ormedlong

ntothe WhiteNile.

ortyyardswide,witha

urvoyageonit we

ndide f ectw hichthedy ing

riegatedtintso the

o themoon,produced

ch weglidedunder

yruswalls.

dslowlybutsteadilyup

steamuptothe

w hilstw etook ue lon

thandshoot. Wehadn't

aste,asmyhosthadto

andIhad myGondo-

st, verydenseandthick ,

da terashorttrek came

o acare ulsta lk

nthetreetrunksandunder

swasnecessarytodis-

amidsttheherdo emales ,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



dbuckwithnice

othingouto theway,

mmediatelya ter-

ongingtoadi f erent

ve,startledat the

w asratherbiggerthan

Iw asn'touttodecimatethe

morethanoneunless

obea w hack er, so I

ht a n ot h er d a y,

teddownstream.

dmuchlikethat

estretcheso loating

growth. Onthe land

resothicklyinterwoven

eypresenteda ront

ithoutana e it ishardto

andtheyarehauntedby

uti ullymarked

restbecamethinner,

herdso game— w aterbuck

sandclearingsbetw eenthe

iver. Then ortenmiles

nstream,Ihave

o animall i e , e cepting

A rica , romthe

arailway.Thebanks

thw aterbuck , romtheo ld

aringthemarkso many


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



coats, to theHttle to ts ust

ra ew yards. Thatregion

o theAthiplains,but

so di f erentvarie ties.

o rt iang, o w hich

ocality,butnonehad

ebushand orestland

d thewhite-earedcob

lat, grassyplains, w ithatiny

tthe numerousred

valsthe smoothness

mpykhorsthatwind

verymileorso.

dwithlargeror

eauti ulante lope. None

ectinthe leastto theno ise

ouldeventurnround

edly.They'lltellyoua

astheshootingseasondraw s

ebeencontinually

romeverysuccessive

on'tseetheirhee ls or

oo lsthey !

loldone,witha

ttheheadw asnotw orth

thatthehornshadgot

ndedwellbelow

allowedmetoget

gon eedinga llthetime


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



-EI.-Z ERAF

l. l/ I.KAI. '


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



thoughthe

oto f , Iem itteda

hthisheadup romthe

n, andhestoodlong

ak ee f ect. Hewasun-

e acto thesteamer

uallystartlesa herd

pulledupasecond

nothershot romthe

esIcouldn'tseethe

theresultthatI hadto

threeshock ingmisses.

ghoutthenight,we

o ind, staringusinthe

eastwards, thethreerock yhil ls

Wehadmadeupourminds

sehil lsinthehopeso

undthebase.I am

hisisagoodloca lity or

opes weredashed,andwe

tment.Twothings

meostrichesandaherd

' t wa n t to h a rm t h em m o re -

f t h e li s t o a n im a ls t h at

preserved,sowelet

anciedsecurity , w herethey

bulgy-lookingnecksto

orldlik etheprehistoricpeeps


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



piled-upgraniteboul-

lock so guinea- ow l,

enormousw arrena li a rd

e!Ihithimverybadly

edout ordead, t i l l , such

creatures, thenoiseo our

apparently— impelledhim

eintherock s, romw hich

ncludingthoseo tw o lusty

athistail, couldnot

w ebecameaw areo

eakingsound, anda ter

lintoaw idecrev ice in

erepackedlikesardines.

me lardera terabig

f edw ithbats hang-

heroughnessesand

k.Astonethrowndown

cloud, l ik esomany locusts,

ew iththeir luttering

venbacktotheir

rceo circumstancesinthe

elingkitesandhawks.

. the la tterdoubtlesshada

veno re ugew etramped,

our shoot,acrossthe

reen,nowblack,ac-

beenburntornot,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



e-eaters,catchingthe

k eduponourw ay.

gger, andmy riend

the couldstandmy

odays,whichmeantthat

d hi m se l t w o e t r a d a ys '

andv isitsomemore

ood.Over oyedwith

genabled,withhis

rthertry orgamethrough

mer,weplannedacam-

t Mrs.Gray'swater-

yesonaliving

banimal, ItrustImaybe

chdescriptiono himse l

power.

t thehon.member

ondwindledunder!I

thisstatement,however,

orhim, ashetook meto

yplacesinwhichMrs. Gray

oa llh isow nspecia l

ialgunboat inshort,

a n d th e w ay h e a nd I

evenasighto thew hite

esign-manua lo thise lusive

amentionindespatches.

i n d h e r w i th h e r ar m s ou t -

edidthe latterall


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hoo didw eseteyes

n ot a t h om e !

utthesamesi e

thas notsomany

hehas,nevertheless,

opo hisw ithers. He

dinghorns,whichhe

backwhenhebounds

e inconse uencestick sup

k now ndi f erence in

betweenthe emale

lewhite-earedcob.But

irmation.

Mrs.Gray'swater-

ononelicence,and as

tura lly shootsabuck or

nthe interestso

begivenpermission

ase— adoeasw ell

esameherd, soastoprevent

havethe emaleproperly

ten, w hentheherdis

yingdown,asisthe

cobus, andit isonly

o udgeby. Noonew hom

sub ect— andsome

ughttoknow — can

enthetw odoese cepttosay

ay'sw aterbuck hasless


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



butasthatparto theanimal

venwiththeaid o

allegeddi f erencedoesn't

edtobelievethat

adso emalestooneor

tpossiblyat leastthree

beaccordedthenecessary

piece.

ownLakeNo in

atedontheroo o my

rto attainagreatenough

eds,regardlesso

thepoorpanting unne l,

rglasses w hilstevery

ByGad! orsome-

GreatScott! w ould

e lingsondiscoveringtw o

upinthegrass,sun-

ires, asthecase

i ed uestion,

I n t hi s p ar t o t h e

uck,anditisonly very

meshra orlanding-

ttonso ilcanbe ound.

elikeoasesinthe desert.

neo them, thereare

a d o e n k h or s — w e t

mosto themwaist-

, be oreonecomesw ithin


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ceo thesupposed

dictu,inour case,

emalewhite-eared

o throughoutthe

uslydisappearedina

rsuit, butwewerealways

nt.

my lack o success

mademuchtooearly

thisspecieso w ater-

o theNiletillall the

thatistosay,about

o anysearchonthe

w eek in anuary .

uitthehon.mem-

un laggingenergies,

eparto hise ce llent

f , ow ing, le t itbe

s w ithdrink tobecon-

ngopenelsewhere!

entwasuptoconcert

ntsIampreparedto

suredterms.

veratherle tthe irsheep

wayon, butIreally

ick le ade, asIam

ain uestion, e cept

myob ectgivesme

tthatparto theSudan.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



steamingandtramping

oundourselvesonce

st'ssemi-permanent

busiedhimse l inpreparing

rashort ourney through

el shootingguinea-

oribi.

amagain ora

allowkhor.Thewater

nelhad changedwith

themud, conse uently

sandbanksbe orewe

butw ithnodire ulresults

ricanehadstartedin

hadtaken allpre-

ursternwellout rom

anchors, w e oundin

dragged,and thatthe

nd ast, abeamona lee

asnousedoing

ua ew moreanchors,

tback toTau ik ia to

andbegantogrow

entually,a teragreat

hesturdy e llowsgotus

unedthebendintothe

at,the goodship

tamileaway.

o . Shew asaclay


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s



itw assheergoodluck

dn't Ishouldhavebeen

oghmy ault, it istrue—

sthatbe havesaidon

metopassthatIle tthe

ryasIembarkedon

meintheship, andI' l l

sherowneriskind

thatonsome uture

goodl ucktocarry

edevised ortheun-

w aterbuck .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



counterparto

E a st A r i ca n

obe ound

s, sothat

gesintothe tiango

White NileIdonot

colourwithpurplish

e ore-armandthighs.

thehartebeest,

appearanceandthe

rnsarelyre-shapedand

adis biggerthanthat

-threeinchesbeingonly

average.

i c ul t o a p pr o ac h , r o m

w, thatIhavemetIthink

thecak e. The irstherd

mberedabout orty indiv i-

rmedaboutthrough

callycoal-blackallover


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



no themdidIseew hen

r o m th e c ov e r o a b u sh

stant romwherethey

yhadapparentlydis-

rderlies knewme

sight, so itcouldn't

sasingleton,morethan

ileaway . Ithoughtitw as

be ore Ihadreached

nother ourhundredyards

a ido glassesthatI

maginemydisgust

tw entyyards— rather

bo ltedlikeashot I

ainthatday.Thisput

tosecureaspecimen

bu f a lo , withw hichthe

otthembe oree lse-

timeandenergiesto

ppointmentthere,

edagainstthewily

nceagainstanyo his

heherea ter. How-

vedmelater.

danthantheir

ausethere islesscoverin

bushlando the la tter

rancho thegenus

tiangneversettle


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



tout irstpostingasentine l

an ant-heap,whence

ewover thesurround-

ever eedsorplays

andingerectand

mewhatungainly,he

ncessantlyandscansthepla ins

enemy . Assoonas

uspectedhew arnsthe

byastampontheground

hissigna lupgoesevery

everysharpeye scans

llsides,everynostrilis

o rtheslightesttaintonthe

n, l ie uiet asonthe

owingyourse l o ra llowing

t h e gl i nt o f y o ur r i l e

anceo gettingashot

hewhole amily,

ughtheylookwhenat

ggrace ulsw ingingga llop,

vertheground ar

irstpossible andthey

ht orsomedistance. I

bushonthe irw ay,

looking ortheminit,

ht through,andwill

heopenpla in. Butit iso

edherd.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



BOR

DECULA

dthatthebush-

hehil ls. Sohe

bynomeans

toleamarchonmy

n ourneyuptheNile to

eveningtostopand

i a , w herew ew eregoing

e tmorningIw ok eup

adstopped, andonseeing

sleep, I uie tlyhurriedon

f togetaheado them

peopletrampingroundthe

rightandle t, spe llsno

theskippersaid

o r G am e i a , t ha t t he p l ac e

notGamei a , asIhad

ssionstation.Not


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



witha wink,thatthe

dwithoutmoreado

eTheresultw asanice

urn iendishandaw ul

, who Ik new couldn't

l Ihadboardedtheboat

so lute ly la tcountry

mound, leavealonea

teemedw ithbushbuck ,

dbymyseeingtwo

heshorttwohoursIw as

edon lat,sun-dried

grass,threadingour

betweenthe thorn

mtheriver-bank,where

esaw andleto f aherd

mallheadinit . Then,

heron, I e ltav io lentpok e

roundI oundmy

ramrod, slowlyhandingme

edly intothegrass. Itm ight

udgingby the look onhis

Iw asespecia llyan ious

nogood,however,

l ik ea lash, hav ine

Iw asready . Ashort

w astimetoreturntothe

ndtowardstheNilewe

ome. Thenw etumbled


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s



kF irsttwodoes ed

eyhadev idently le tthe ir

wesawnosigns o

ppearedw iththebuck eed-

r.Whenhewasclose

uthithimrather ar

irandsprangbehind

stood stillandstared

heslightestknowledge

suddenreport o llowed

pr o du c es t h is e f e c t i t i s,

yadvisabletosittight

the landliesbe ore

ceo concea lment. In

illbehindhisbush so , in

es uietlyaw ayw ithout

twoorthreetimes.

edIadvanceduponthe

gup romw herehe

h,badlyhit,andgave

uarters.

eastsare these—

ark redinco lour, w ith

gverticallyandhori on-

uartersandribs, spotted

Theyvary tremen-

andintheirmarkings.

manealldownthe

aindero thecoat,and

uiteshaggy inappear-


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s



ghteringeneralcolour

''bor''and inthe

heycarrynohorns.

oneousidea irmly

manypeople in

ta ink indo animal

ante lope w hichis uite

shbuck . Whenoneo

e pla inthedi f erence,

verymuchalike

essed, headmitsthathe

ybetweenthem.The

rica , andontheWest

cieso bushbuck a lsoe ist

enericname harnessed

eduponthe lot andon

iginaldiscoveryonthe

belledharnessed

ringonthesub ect.

ormsarebothone

elaphusscriptus,which

dante lope, o r, asw ecall

allbe longtothesame

wearstring-marks,

ned, inthisparto the

nthe Nileand

another,hencethe

w eenvariousindividua ls

oneanother. Ihaveseen

erymuch redderone,


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s



doesasusua l, whichin

yo thesamehue,

theirlordsandmasters.

anddi f iculto

eepone's eyeswell

ideopentocircumvent

dthingwhenoneis

tocarryari leone-

yashotcan beobtained

rass,thatis notpossible

eri leouto thegun-

ta terbushbuck in

s towalk uietlyalong

abouttw oorthree

eplain, andatthesame

gtheplainbe lo ivyou, ust

lt o m ak e , no t a e a r u l r ow ,

ckahvaysrun uphill

ou willhavethedouble

isroundyou,andhaving

ottomdrivenupto

lmostprobablybe

k andmakeupyour

rycare andbesure

out. Onlyyesterday

notdo ingthis, because

upnottenyards rom

shbuckdown.I


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s



uldn'tbethere asthe

ithacrashandarush so

ormyorderly , w homI

ind, and, in act, made

oreproceedingtow alk

reanysignso thebush-

e iveminutesa terthe

werediscussingwhat

ck boltedouto thevery

nstandingnear, and

sitting downtalking.

y ri ledow nonthe

sout.Bushbuckare

andprobablythat one

datmysuddenandclose

doggoh inthe

unk .

orestcountrytheold

eevening oranhouror

etlytoadmirenature,as

shbuck tocomealong,

delsewhere.

do m inereturnedto

erso theKing'sA rican

Uganda, w ithhis

ment,intheHoimadistrict,

gstothertrophies,the

ck w hichhehadshot.

mallythick,andallo a

reorless— overly^ inches,


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s



wereshotonthe

LakeAlbertneara

other atanother

waynearerBombo,on

ariver. The irskinsare

hestring-marksscarcely

bor' 'o theNile, o rthe

Orisitthatthegood

ninthisparto thew orld

inerhorns, evenasthe

ntcarriesmoremassive

oundinthevicinity

utthe uestionis,

ercasemy riendhasgot

awsuchmassiveheads,

bletoclassthemunder

ereareplentymore

beshotbythe

theheadsandsk ins

e llows, shownaga insta

ogive anideao

a lsoaphotographo

heNile.


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s



'

NDAWHOLE RHINOHORN

pearstobesii iaUerthanitrea lly is, asit issomelitt ledistance


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s



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s



here Ihadlanded

itingwhilstin

ck , asbe orede-

nuedits

wardsUganda.At

eesrearedthe irspiny

mattedbank o reedsand

rpleconvolvulusthat

rnedandtw istedinthis

gacerta inbend, w ehad

eertokeep asharp

ak sin ronto usw erea

ppos, aspotonw hichthey

aysun.Sureenough

d, o ldandyoungo a ll

thewater,warming

k ononesideo the

urtherawaywasanother

ktenantedbydo ens

ormingthesamespecieso

rethe irstto take

inandha l outo the

al,withoneeyeopen— and

gw heelw asconductedto


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s



thew ater. Theyslid

e lement. Thehipposdid

econdslater w henthey

ew aterw assuddenly trans-

evenplanetow avesand

sand unwieldybulk

atures. Be oredashing

thepool, oneortw oo

ostareopen-mouthed

on. Onehippocameup

eyard romthebow so the

edlyin hisdismayat

the mustalmosthave

ncident.Herdso

erbank,asthe grass

burnt inplacesorhad

uiteshort.

n, asuddentrumpeto

esideo thevesse l,

si e lephantstearing

e ew as rombehindus,

mongstthem.They

some ourmiles, a lw ays

ngatavery astshamble ,

rassand bushesasi

detheirprogress.Why

into thedepthso the

Perhapstodo sowas

psandmud butat


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



f o rdedusanamusing

arlyanhour. Thenthey

,trumpetingloudly,lay

ighgrass. Wecould

sturnedinourdirectionto

dlitt leones romthe ear-

proachinghim, enve lopedin

othinghappened,how-

sionswiththe

e llow, andthebank

o landupon, sow epassed

to Gondokoro,and

marching.

meprettydry,and

adwasinade uate or

sonlyto behadby

odothismarchtoNimule

dnotseenbe ore ,

ere wouldbeplenty

rters. Moreover, Ihadplenty

ebe orethesteam-launch

arded orthisdiver-

cenerywepassedthrough

ngthe low ground,

amsandmakinglong

roundthe swamps.

thistimeo theyearby

ightedonpurposeby the


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s



helatter. Throughthe

hootswerealready

pso rockygranite

uent. TheNilew as

rsodistant romour

rtesyaroad, and

emostpartisheavily

sttothe Congo

o game orsome

oodtherew asinplenty , both

an. Guinea- ow lasw ellas

piecesderesistance orthe

ew ere lotso resheggs

orbreak ast. Thenatives

ndandhospitable,

wants,o tenwithout

theycongregated

aneveninggladtohear

idew orld.

b e hi n d on t h e le t b a nk

er,usuallyagreat

eason butow ingtomany

omGondok orohav ingspenta

gintheneighbourhood,

addisappearedin avouro

actero thecountry

sandmore trees

howedsignso developing

emistyoutlineso moun-


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_ u s e # p d - u

s



sible araw aysouthwards.

w ehearda re uentmur-

eantshallowsontheriver,

tw o ormedaw elcome

assed severalvillages

ath, a ll looking a irlypros-

ywerebytheirgreen

Wepitchedourcamp

beauti ulspot, wherea ine

ca lvegetation low sa long

adow-likeclearing,

ntgrassand adorned

ig-trees,tamarinds,and

thevillage,which

hereis arockyridge.

evidentlythesoil

o,however,simsim,

regrow n. A ato ld

paramountchie o this

e lloverhimse l inhis

owushospitality.

asremarkable oran

scontretemps.The

gone,norwasthere

so Ie pectedthe

otlya terIdid. When

thehalting-placewith-

earance,Ibeganto

ed.Atlasta man

hishead, andonbeing


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



monosyllable, Nyuki

inedthew ho lething, and

ddemora li edmobshu f led

ees.Eyeswere

heirusua lsi e , and

ngdegreeeven or

so theswollenorgans

mper.Theirstory

beeshadbeenannoyed

orters theyo tenchant

arch andhadde-

andnail,going straight

emen, w ho, withoutamoment's

estotheground and

elonggrassandthence into

t havingtaken

very ar,proceededto

nedloads,sothat,

em,theinsectswere

y oranotherengage-

odo,till aman

s be oreadvocated

edwithburningbundles

rsmadeadetermined

s,withthe resultthat

etelyde eatedwith

o tw oothere actly sim i-

ok chargeo the loads

o f w ith ire . Beesare

eedi routedouto the ir

ntheir attacks.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



.5 5 3

'3

EEPUPONTHELEVEL PLAIN

WAl'ERS


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s



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_ u s e # p d - u

s



roadistoKenyi's

drisesand a llsthrough

uchcut upbyrocky

aterinthem. Thetrack

abouttwomiles distant

ampedsome ourmiles

w astotheeastand

ad.

sstill good,but

ruggedcountry,inwhich

thcultivation.There

muchtoshootin this

eneighbourhoodo the

ollalongthe pre-

thisstream, Icame

eopard,sittinguplike

nkingatthesun. ust

, a lock o guinea- ow l

lyaw aywithatre -

alnaturallyattracted

ndhewaso f be ore I

wbeganto make

reenEvidence,i not

becamesteeperandmore

e t, andthedome- lik e

loomedin ront, where

thechasmbetweenit

pment.Ason the

woundaboutdread ully,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



oad orallthevillages

, inthatitseemstopass

Atany rate, a ttheend

hadbeengo inga long

ired, butw edidnotseemto

orrarder, udgingby the

landmarks,butwehad

herhio herp roundthreeor

theNile towheretheUma

enttwo uitegood

rnew so e lephant, w hich,

gedtosecureanice

ndsaw himcutupand

assatis actory , asso

apidsandgetlost. The

andagoodw aterbuck

agged.

side o theriver

yaraceo menw ho

usesandcultivatedthe

remainso the irgardens,

lesalongtheslope

n allthesteeper

kethehill cultivationin

separtsareverynice ,

rthaneverwhenthey

htso hippomeat!

andnowbeganto

till itlookedasthough

ldbeimpossible.The


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s



ESSMORASSES


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s



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_ u s e # p d - u

s



umultuous thepath

n,windinginandout

lders,betweenthe

wup thesteepside

eridge o iningthiso f shoot

kingtheriver,ever

oundourselvesonthe

Thisboldrock,which

d eetabovetheNile

ndand seemsto

ushingcloudshalt

tscrest,andcurl in

scraggysummits.

tomo whichthe

ormedby theAron i

thevan uishedmist

sdark gorge and

romtheeast, spreadsa

egau e-likecloudo

deephollow.

ko,shelteredina

k edasi ithadbeenmade

t, and romw hichthev iew

ep,but,beingata

I keptonwakingup,

t orthtoseethesun

oundsseemtohave

nt, gratingroaro abe-

porterwhoseduty itis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hew atch- irego ing he

them, andthebrightbla e

es,andthrowsa dull,

rocks.Morningcomes

orenighthasyetdeparted,

thegreat isheagleas

ugho some oresttree ,

repeatshis uivering

vil spiritcalling.

dcharmstheearasthe

gmakethestarsgrow

w prolongedand ull,

thee ampletothe

bulbul, irsttoawake,

ebirdsindulgein

, charminginthe ir ua int-

ourhumdrumthrushesin

kesup,andwithhis

sounds.Andnowthe

wstrugglethroughthe

e islandsina a iry sea—

ene thedew drops a ll

asthe lightbree estirs

sleep ago ldentint

m istbelow thesun's

romtheeasternsky the

ullnesso hisma esty, re -

ds, Lettherebe light!

ghtyseabelow


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



haroundthehill-tops,

ught,itvanishes.A

atmosphererevealsthe

v irgin orestnew lyawak ened

nta inandva lley, hil land

erabletrees,stretchbe-

erydew y lea gildedby the

ckglisteningwithmoisture

ntainandvalley,woodand

hisbeams.

hroughbush and

er,towardsNyeri,the

unta ins andthence

gorgeonthe brinko

idenedoutas we

ieldsencirclingNimule.

anypark,wereclumped

and there.Tallbor-

daboutthevalley,

rsgrowinginconsider-

stanthills,high and

ich low themuddy

nowashallowstream,

onourright,allcom-

apeo surpassingbeauty .

restawhileuntil

, thattook us urtherup

d,there ore,ample

orour** Sa ari, andre-

sinthechop-bo es. Here


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



velincompanyw ith

agreatrelie to themono-

asC apta inEdwards, the

lice,accompaniedbyMrs.

romtheannua linspection

Thesmallsteam-launch

ded,andane traman

atinconveniencealady

ationatourdisposal

ndsandlooked orw ardto

nEdwardswas ull

, ashehadcomeacross

hitamagni icent

hrough swampsand

romearlymorntil ldew yeve,

riendlycountryw here

ow nivory thie andhad

s urtherpursuit. What

ver, w asthat, ustbe ore

aunch,amancamein,

thatthishoaryo ldrobber

thetusksandhad

givethemuptothe

dinginsulttoin ury,

oritbutto ourneyon

ng— the irstout rom

andedat theold

o Du ile . We ound

grassandweeds.O

ickandthatchedwith


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s



hew allsw erestanding,

thegreaterparto the

n. Allhadgonetorack

ydestroyed. The ew

endedby thedevoted

o f icers, remainina

iverbank.The

imetreesanddatepa lms

hedestructiono many

beneathisliterally

athaveseededthemselves

andgonew ildinthe

that nightsoasto

avouritewoodstation,

a ew hours'shooting

e l. Athree-m ilew a lk

ulrollingdownsstudded

eandascantysprinkling

tw aslikeanEnglishhay -

now ntobeplenti ulhere,

comeacrosstheirold

aw nothingmore

tandoribi, w hichw ele t

ourreturn.Andit

at downtoinvestigate

hbask et, w e oundthatit

oneo themenwehad

shedupandin ormedus

ate,butthathe andhis


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s



layedbybeingcuto by

ts.Thiswasgreatnews,

sinsearcho them. The

isturbed,hadpassedon

largeherd, how ever, turned

en— asw ee pected. There

bullamongstthem,so

ingour glassesdirected

positionw eoccupied. It

tchthemsomethree

kedtogetherundera

dsinw ards acingthe

therewasasudden

onehadkickedanother

wouldturnroundandshow

lappingtoand ro . A ter

emaltogether,wedeter-

oserinspection,incase

hichstoodupmuchhigher

eto havelargertusks

ostcurioushowclose

e lephantssleepinglik e

ht outintheopen

o^r,providedon^approaches

atthew indblow s rom

ssedandrecrossedthe ir

therew asnothingw orth

sionthatit wouldbe

theriveroncemore.

tebeest. My riend


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



erthe less, hew ento f w ith

in pursuit,hardly

ithhim orsometime,

mping pain ullyalong,

mus. We o llowedhim

ctingthatintimehe would

opedwemightbe

to givehimthecoup

estbehavedasw ehad

ncedwarilytothespot

hadtakenthepre-

ngthew ayhehadcome,

rush, w aso aga in.

thal amile urther— we

erdiscom iture. Hav ing

washiddenin the

our totakehimin

. Ourv ict imhadbehavedina

enastrickenanimal

heknowndangerbehind,

rnshim o possible

nanimaldashesaw ay

ha bullet,heis

swell asmuch

nceanunknowndanger

ellclearo hisdeadly

ese , w heno da ily

armorethantheperu-

ok s andit isonlyamatter


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



u i re s a a i r kn o wl e dg e o t h e

rentspeciesmetw ithinw hat-

maybe.Whata man

turallyo thegreatest

re isastoryo a

t, resh romtheA rican

a riend'sdeer orestin

rated orits uantit ies

nthe irstshootingmorning

rprisedathis guest'snon-

asttable,andwhenthe

dsentthebutleruptohis

dthat everybodywas

uestwas nowhere

e irhorroronemerging

o indthesportsman

thedoorstepw ithtw o

urse , hehadrisenw ith

one it inA rica , and

bestt imeo theday.

tedgil l ies— hatedthesight

ustomedtodohisownsta lk-

thathis hostandthe

yin someotherdirection,

roughlye plainedover-

ghtitoddthatnoonehad

umbers.Thehostwas

ue anotherinvitation

urredonourvoyageto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



gpastthewooded

st-cladhills,pastthe

s,runningaground

he delaysandgetting

nthatparto theriver

oidtheshoalso weeds

ollect untilthey

asswhichstretches across

ilter. Thenasthewater,

cles,arrivesatthis

amis suddenlychecked,

itoo esandpercolates

butcompressedmass

eposit uick ly createsmud-

f ectuallyblock the

e.

stlargelyinto the

ddblock sistheP ist ia

asmall loatingcab-

rootslikea humanbeard,

ength. Thepist iaso ten

ichareverydi f icultto

ngthesur aceo the

sandthrees, oro severa l

enup intherapids,

abanko reeds,and

broughtusupatanchor

ro Butiabaatthe oot

entthathemsintheeastern


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hisstripo low -ly ing

nandthetempestuous

^ randshootinc ground.

pecttomeetsevera l

orahundredmilessouth

the Semlikiriver,and

ntothebarga in, as ew

parativelyunknown

e. Therearenotmany

randsweetpotatoesare

ndependon ishtoa

one 'sentouragewith ood.

odays'march

atprimeva l orestsw hich

ntheseparts. Anoak

egiantso thesewilds.

dmiretheprodigious

setrees. The irbeauti ul

hemorestriking there

ssuch asweareaccus-

ntoaksandelmso

romtheearthlike

e r o m br a nc h es o r a h un d re d

dart, o rm ingagrey

o therichcanopy

aroo per ectly im-

i f iculttoguessthe

trees, butIshouldsay

ouldmissw ithaguna

es.Fromage toage


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s



>>


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s



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_ u s e # p d - u

s



remainintheir undisturbed

asingintheirendless

vethedarkvistaso

tterstillnesswhich

theshadeso the orest

istened orsomesound,

tachirpo abird, northe

rd. Themoutho nature

rdureandthe reshness

ideao eterna lvegetation,

ddstothecharmo

Creeperso thethick-

esnak e likea longthe

heirtwisted ormson

trees, andhangin

ostem, lik ethecableso an

estoone tends rom

undredyards now all ing

a reshroot, thenw ith

tingthehighesttrunks

ho tw istedw ebbing

e orest.

animalinhabits

nativescallhim

ck- awnamepho-

rmet amanwho

muchless who

speciesseemstoe ist

o n e ma y u d ge b y t he


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



t ispossibletoac uireby

. Thesk insarevery

hoseo thedik-dik a

nappearancew ithe tremely

resa idtobehornless.

usinthisdistrict,and

oundinthosedenseso li-

heSemlikinestlingunder

ori. Thenativesaresa id

s orthem, andtocatch

romtreetotreethrough

glethem.Oneneversees

whichareusuallyobtained

rmo k arosses. These

ommandaverygoodprice .

stwasconsiderablymarred

roughtonina llprobabil ity

nandcontinualwettings

Mr.Anderson,who

tyatMasindi,soon

ects. Aslio rht divarsion

nthunt,tookus ashort

y. Therewasnew so tw o

Wetrek k ed. . . and, to

meuponthepool

previousnight.The

thick, sooneo mymen,

rchedw ellaheadwiththe

nsible orthetidings.

tentcrashingas o


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



t C ,

Oo t ' ' t


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ngandbreakingdownthe

soundwelocatedas

eclumpo ta lltrees.

andgetthewind

ereach,withaslittle

through thedense

,weadvancedupon

w asadense, impene-

angle, andonourrighta

reeds,tallenoughto

ntthatevere isted.

ront.Thewind

r o nt . . . . We m ov e d

rk inthereedsto ldus

urwind.Weprayed

othearthat, andthat

rendup!I the

erthetree,welland

s , lo o k ou t o r . . . B yG a d !

yardsaw ay inthereeds,

lentlytoand ro,and

e uitemad. Therewas

ythegreatesto good

nstersdidn'tbreakcover

nggrew ainterand

anotherin hopeless

adbeenunderthe

andthebushbuck's

wwe cursedthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



thedayunderthe

thetree,butwehadbarely

anothercrashing, uite

edirectiono ourlineo

ubt!Asthe noise

e,wegrippedour

oordie. Inamoment

windand weshould

hertheywouldbolt,or

orbloodandmeant

ned,andthey led.

ywerethesame

amomentbe ore.Two

rsuito the irtrack s,

act. Whatmusthave

shbuckhad given

animalinthe ungle

rningsignal,andal-

neitherseennor heard

heyhadbettermake

tany rate , oratime. A ter

e,however,theyhad

atterednervesand

eirsiestaunder their

vestigatemattersgen-

urw ind. I only

yardsbehind, w herethe

hantswouldhave

tno oneinhis

doutinthe opentoeat


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



thegrate ulshadeo a

ardsaw ay st i l l lessw ould

hantswouldreturnso

sheerbadluck: and

abig e llow, too!

beautyo Masindi, and

nade uateterms but

hurryingupmyreturn,

tmornincr. Theshootino

shortestroad,whichI

o Ile tw ithaheart

my pleasant ourney

,andthatitwouldbe

eIshouldbeabletoobta in

ootinotherdistricts.

eriverKa u, asluggish

aNile,whichwereached

r ch . T hi s i s a sl o w- l o wi n g,

yrichtropicalvegetation

ely ernsoverhangthe

articularlyvividhere

esso theplains, andthe

meo thetreeshavethe

alt ints, and orma eature

andscape.Gamewas

able uantity.One

eringaboutthirty,stood

gatadistanceo about

etophotographthem.

e lter romtheburn-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ate palms,avery

picture , variedby the an

ather-likeleavesandbright

hsimilarlycoloured ruit.

comesdark brown, lik e

rvals,a ewdelight-

osew ouldbepassedbya

ddenbyitsrich ungle

archesthroughan

mosathornwhichroselike

ersideo us.Along

nyrisingground hence

thing ormorethana

nlessoneis willingto

enetratingthebushand

eredgarmentsand

returnyoucan, orw henonlya

pit is uitepossibletoget

viousnesso this

sa lmostunbe lievable the

rn ormanabso lutely im-

eo everydescription

med bynaturewith

e ence. Thenatura listcan

o hisday . The low ers

li e isseeninmanyunac-

intspire - l ik eant-hil ls,

i teen eetinhe ight, and

enoisy,yellowweaver-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ryside.Fromtreeto

chweavewebso

ththedewandthe

oklikegau ecurtains

hegroundlurk

ble,anddeadlymambas,

es,whosebitemeans

Whereverthereis a

retohearatnight a llthe

aboons.

e orapond, amed

rderthatmymen

hewashingline,and

-spantomaketheirentree

uarterso theregiment.

menttous,however,to

dypuddle,welltrampled

stbeenwateredthere .

tstay orourproposed

terthe long, la t

st-coveredcountrywehad

ie to reachthehil ls

ustl ing rondso the

asingshade,to attain

oesandallthings goodthat

eringporter'sstomach.

d.Wehad time

weary legstherebe ore

eonmy last ourneyout


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



Gerunti

yse periencew ith

nd thesame

eNile , ust

enarrowest

thegreatCongomoun-

tthoseroundNimule.

eitherthe ponderous

worldknowsthatby

mongreeds,coming

tervals w hilsta tnight

o grassandmak ea

uttheplacelikethe

the day'samusement.

course Ireturned

sleepo f my impatience

t ullenougho gasto

theriver. Thisusua lly

urhours.

o thebeauti ulshady

htherearenumbersonthe

not ar romalargev il lage

calledKuyu.The


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nmyears, andtheshadowy ,

mountainstoweringon

verw erev isible romw ithin

gra isedtoencouragethe

nthiscuriouscrack in

boutstheUgandaside

emostpartaserieso ro ll ing

tercourses,downto

ntheoppositebank the

ndred eet, andthen

rrowvalleythatought

mo a l l so r ts . A l it t le u r th e r

mthewesternbank o the

geo mounta ins, w hich

00 e e t hi g h r o m ou r

andgrass.Beyond,the

ain,butallona higher

themeat- loving

romonlyado ebe it

up w asa llaboutthe

w as loatingdow n

dagainhiddeninthe

someclo thesand

verbank, to indthe

on somerocksin

romcamptouse in-

detwistedcreeperthings

Ibegantoe pla inthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ettinghimthetwo

hebank.

ow!

n t, s t ar k o h ! h a l

ting,eachmanonhisambatch

MeanwhileIhadseen

ing uestionedthem

aspossibletosecure

eedinthea f irmative ,

mylist.Asluckwould

vagesw hohadstartedo f

ppow erecarriedby the

ghtinthew ayo thesecond

edtobein hisdeath

dhimwithmyri le

oughli e le tinhimto

slegs, andhe** k u a-ed,

mmerswerewithina

ound.

hohadremainedon

matedthat itwasa

epeople inthew aterhad

Ik now !

eropeto theleg

dhippo , anda tera lo to

himo therocksand

hebank.

eyhadgotholdo

pe, andthey replied, I


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ationwiththe chie ,

uks, urtherdow nthe

sinthemysterieso a

etohaveanambatch

ry lightw ood, a lmosta ltogether

ribundcarcase,and he

berandchatterthesw immers,

og o ambatch,reached

edthehippow ould

Iwishedtotakea

andtheysa id, Oh, no!w e

n ormedme andon

themethodo procedure,

eropetohisleg Y es! ,

o therope, orhad

o, theysa id, *'No!We

med, ouhave lost

agedi theydidn'treiterate ,

l ights, anda iro varied

hopelessdisgust!

k to think o it!What

traordinarywooden-

ssavages Theyare

es,draggedupas

willbesavages.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



htyearsI've lived

i f erentuntameddeni ens

s, andhavethoughtI've

toms nevertheless,I

arriving atthebottom

procliv it ies.

Iknow! till

willgoon believing

thishippoepisode

gtheaboveremarks

toalterasingle word

outsavages.

emenw hohadbeen

arlydaw nto look out orthe

my— thattheyhad oundhis

,hadretrievedhim,

astto thebank —

s.Onthis beingsworn

spearsthrownonthe

nthe air,Ithoughtit

visitthescene— o

boutsavages,

em !

hemonsterw eretobe

uietlye pla inedby the

ceptedwithloudacclama-

minutesthewholebloom-

wing,cutting,howling,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



KALBER T

TTO THICBANK


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



g that'sa lltheverbsI

sent w ithoutreason. They

ndthe stenchrose,

becauseeveryman,woman,

reapieceo meat,

erstandingthis oranhour

ricansuninthenoon-

thestate o mytemper.

sbitso stomach, that

ledupthebank tono

who lew omen o lk o the

e inthe ace, andin

hadto igurative lyw adein

d ustbeensevered,

adho ldo it buta

maindero thecarcasetobe

o, sothatIm ightobta inmy

wlo disgust.

re ying,andtheyhad

at.Whattheywanted

utI eventuallysuc-

entyorthirty able-

myre uirements. I

ourteetha llright, though

ck inthea ternoonbe ore

ils!— musthavetheir

esult, a t lop. m. onthesame

thev il lagew asstupe ied


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



herestt ipsy— theresults

ativebeerbrewed romdhurra

on.Althoughtheylove

whatgooddoes asur-

Isuppose it 'sl ik eaboat-

eing interpretedto

, meansagiganticbust!

ope!

nes,so Iwentto

neverretractany remarks

s.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



i intheNimule

tagreaterloss

he linecomes

mtiang.

ough.Hishead

ur,make,andshape,to

attendant emales. Iw as

I irstseteyesupon

ure byagainscru-

metimethroughglasses

hadno ideao mypresence,

at once.Iwasthen

ok atthemsi tyyards

utes, sothattherew asno

ingthem.

edand purpleclothes

madetheirac uaintance

heGermanboundary .

ualIhaveshotare

n actmuchthick er

indthem, butnotso long

men, shot ivehundredmiles


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



piwereinhabitingthe

tryasIhavedescribedin

eE uator.

at notbeingable

butitw as artooearly in

ht, andIw ashandicapped

ortime, w ithaserieso

thesitationin

everthe less, Iw ouldask

vernment,livingonthe

ntheProv inceo Mon-

arterso theSobat

otesastowhichspecies

orderthatsomething

tinedastowherethe line

ting-placebetweenthe

thetopio theSouth.

n air uantitiesin

tareverymuch more

yssiniathatone goes—

retobemet with

towardsImbararaand

here oundinlarge


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



o thisl ittleanimal

eshandinthepot.

neithercapacity,

odandverygood

lorpartridge, orany thing

oldspremiereplace

ereone is orevertry -

shack leso interm inable

at.Thereisnotmuch o

t's true,butwhat

H e i s a be a st a t e r th e

noto thegourmand.

, Itak e ithe isthe

ricathroughoutits

rightly light aw n-

growingtwoslender

wardsandthen orwards,

ngmarksround their

uptow ardsthetips.

ndaandtheSudanin

y ar romw ater, genera lly

ompanywith oneor

mablycometopay


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



t imeo day . They

orgrasscountry— not orests

d sp o rt i p u rs u ed w i th a r i l e .

ingintheearlymorn-

ly stalkedthaninthe

un. I disturbedw hen

a riendlybush, they

o startl ingbounds, stand

hoorw hathasdisturbed

throughtheunder-

ava ilonesel o the

entheystandon irstbe ing

o llow themup, as,

heyleavenotracks

portsman.A standing

onethatcanbeat-

he advantageo

youareshooting i

aight andbagan

handisina itsta teto

imalyou maymeet

atismore , whenyoumeet

ck lehimw ithcon idence.

a ir o o r ib i y ou m ay

herearemorenotso

evera lplacesinmy

hto apa ir, ona low

asscountry,always

meanmore, so longasone

amek indo country—


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



uuildliav


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



e,orperseveringunder

mayseemrather

eworthwhileaddingto

shot o rthe ir leshasw ell

look uitew ell i l l ing

one 'sancestra lha lls

icenttrophiesonwhich


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



4tho August,

mBombo ormy last

o inthehead-

pianarmyatKhartoum.

accompaniedbymanya

enew landandservice

wasnot propitious,

eight.Duringthe

urney thera inpouredin

soakedusa llto theskin,

conse uencetothe

heun ortunateporters'

obuy lour orthem

aday 'smarchitw ould

anindigestiblepoultice.

ttertothem,as

yputdownwithe ual

asedinany uantity.

C .O. andthreemen, with

k,anda body-servant

arty,whichstartedmerrily

neo atemporary


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

rstmarchashortone

a long ourney , asevery -

hebeginning,andthe

o timetosettledown

rstdayout.

eia tecon ineso the

, andthateveningsaw us

we shouldhaveto

utinto theopencountry .

ongstta ll o resttrees

h! howitrainedin the

orthemorrow .

arlymorning, thehighgrass

inmyriadso glistening

wasimprovedby

ybeimagined.O ten

haveenviedmy

abroadbananalea

esobta inedverygoodpro-

shivering— avictim

elopsthetraveller

pandpricklygrasses,

andmimosas— andreeds

o ten ormingregular

emonotonyo

broken.Everynow

pectedly , onegetsablow

hiddentreestump, ora

thorn, o w hichthemost


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



tles,si eethighwith

runderside.

ar lowingstream,

omeasttow est, bubbled

d.Alittlelater we

sebottomlessmorasses

da, andaboutw hichone

ksupto thewaistin

andalthoughinsome

nmadetoerecta kind

so theabundantDom

ten ustthemostdanger-

av ingno irm oundation,

munder ootw henone

ntso A ricantrave l

obeappreciated. To ump

her, tomissone's ooting

tinw aterandmud, to

oncausedbythe sharp-

-grass,andaboveallto

ancepresentedbya

plekickingaboutinswamp

ngsareparto theday's

sgraduallyhardened

ances, andceasestocarevery

eemsto orgetthese

tiestoagreate tent andit

leor ie ld-glassesare

tthe nastylitdething

heard.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

amewaspractically

longintervalsthat

ncecomeacrossasmall

ring.A hartebeest

ndacob ortwo,was

enttobe obtained

rto themarch.

uchtothe easto

at civili ationbroke

o swamp,water,and

nvitedthestranger

Groupso mimosas

tothesw ampy landcovered

chthousandso black

eldtheirconcerts.The

nee-deepuponthelevel

asses.A pathsome

roughthis chaoso

phantshadusedit,

catedby holesinto

ll. Isaw atoneplace

a l o at a d i st a nc e r o m th e

esinthemud. Asour

mthebu f a loesrushed

ewaterbehindthem.

w armso butter l ies

w hich lew roundusinthe

metimesevenalighting

ndsmallpatcheso


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ormoccasionalsmall

veredbylow

themarecrownedwith

someten eetinhe ight.

ssible ortheserock sto

ntothemiddleo thisleve l

thick andthin,and

e guidesthatthey

eday, astheportersmust

g^hthemud,I wastold

thenightw ere uitenear.

ttheywereat leasttwo

eporters allgotthere,

aBaganda'smarching

rch,aswellas the

k o k nowledgeo one 's

erIhadtow ork w est-

wollenandimpassable

therewerenonatives

nge panseo sw amp.

sary tostrik e orthe

assage,wherealsoIhoped

orthe larderintheha l -cleared

mbasthatIk new o f .

nga llrightatKichuya, and

ormysel , theremainder

ngin orthe irshare but

otiatealargemarsh


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

totheKa u. Thisneces-

rtomakeourswamp

saryclothes,together

mall impedimenta

esontheroad— w atch,

,etc.,weremadeupintoa

head.Thewater

ndw as il ledwith

atter.Therayso the

oudso mos uitoestook

ckinguswithimpunity.

ed orw ard, ee lingeach

e irspears. The irwork

butstillnosingle load

mp,thecrossingo

r.Once,sometime

erging romanothersuch

thole,and,stumbling

tho ldo atreetosave

ng. Byev il luck therechanced

anches,and the

ntheirvengeancenot

yourstrulyandthe

ows. Luck ilyhew asa lmost

w ater, o rthe loads, w hich

onallsideswhilst

elter-skelteraway,would

er.

iso nogreatdepth,

f one 'sbreechesand


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



lo hisshirthigher

sneck i necessary—

nthat ashion,because

walkingsadly,besides

rely.

oMasindionceagain

ama ra id— anditw asa

threetimes werewe

geso ra in threetimes

milderanddiedaway

nthesun a ourth

hort uartero amile

ebunga low Iw asmak ing

inda riendindeedonsuch

placewasun-

astravellingroundhis

oservant,nonothing.

eporterswere ar

longmarch,besides

ngowingtothedread ul

gbutdrenching,

ngoutside,andshivering

emanyo you,my

nthecountry inyour

erehospitalityisdis-

hohavenoidea o the

rtso aw anderingli e

n whicheatsupthe

es, t i l lone anciesone

thlyHades,onlytobe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



5 3


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

the ingerbyblack -dark

rainsettingeverynerve

tha-chattering.It's

stenthastobepitchedin

esnoghosto achance

leavealoneboots— dry

terhavingslept i that

tweenblanketsthathave

k ormore .

rett iestplacesithasbeen

ganda, anditw as uiteat

shineo themorning

hingw asabeauti ul

epedoutamidthe lu uriant

es— orcedby thesteamy

andsmok ew reaths

sestothebluesk ies

getationhasachance

ully rich a tthesame

ed.Whenthetall

theroots, a inesur ace

esdarkchocolate.This

gon abrightred

uart isnotrounded, and

o decayedrock that

tedtotheactiono running

he countrymustbe

owersdrainrapidly

e l.

ma,thecapitalo


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



archdistanttothe

adandcare ully

eaconsiderableamount

dmanynativesowne tensive

adside.Wemarched

keroado Uganda

muchcut upbywater-

yalongat thistime

eridgescrownedwith

esttrees.

lyinginanam-

acingwest. The

heC ivilHil landthe

ythingiscleanandtidy.

trade,almoste ualling

othesouth-eastbythe

la,beitremembered,

eNilew ork toand rom

e ortheBelgiansin

bert romitsw estern

tiaba— aw ind-blown

lesnortho old-time

uinydays.

eenchangedtwoor

eoutbreakso sick-

snowgrowntoo big

ad- uarterso the

to theKing'sA rican

argecomplemento

ub-Commissionerin


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

ewasaw ayontouratthe

passedaverypleasant

ano ldSomaliland riend,

m.c,wherechat

riousti l l longpastm idnight.

nd insteado boarding

w asmy irst intention,

northwardsroundthe

dpick herupatBugungu,

w eenintry ing or

s wouldinvolve

gaForestGame

o courseshootingis

e theroutewaslittle

alongthelakeshore,

serveinaday with

otbe inthe orest

vethatthe goingwas

dded towhichIhad

bletosecureoneo thebig

n theselow-lyingparts.

eo ldspotha l -w ay

me ivemiles rom

ew assentto theo f icer

mo my intentions, and

ndboatstoputinto

umberso bush-

tse l , andonthe la t

Imanagedtobag, besides

en's ood, averynicespeci-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



bushbuck , w iththemassive

,althoughnotsuch

byMr.Murraysome

his.

nohightrees,and

ctionably longgrasses. The

tweensweet-smelling,

osas,andwascarpetedby

, pick edoutw ith uantit ies

pet-shapedlilies.Wead-

heado thecaravan,

rtoavoidstartling the

ul.

ddead,and

ormo averitable

cks,withthe inest

beauti ul, symmetri-

ewasunconscious

identlyhadheardor

danger,ashestood

ortunatelylook-

.Itookhurried

ad s, a n d he e l l to a s h ot i n

rk,as hishorns

owever,uselessto

preserveditinthe

uiteimpossible,because

uestion, andthemaggots

to someothermore

veryendeavourto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

mostwelcomeac-

asktakenina drier

rnit, andmakeita

o y o r e ve r .

placetocross,the

Reservebegins.This

ghthewaterwas up

ngverysw i t ly , w enego-

blecha ino porters—

andinhandtow ithstand

rent, w hilsttheremainder

laysleaningup against

yw erecarriedo the ir

morningwouldstand

shouldpassouto the

e pectedtodoonthe

thegoodlucknot to

reamenroute.Oddly

etwithin theReserve,

ndoreatnumberso

ts, deeplyoutlinedinthe

t, tosaynothingo thetorn-

ushes,showedusthat

heneighbourhood.

ga river,wherethe

sbanksweresome

w asameretrick le, asthere

sterday,whichshows

torrents illandempty.

tdelaysomethreeor


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ay romtheriverto try

dso mos uitoesthat

riverbankatsunset.

ocal chie making

urchaseo ood, andre-

andseeme andbreak -

gh. Inanhourorso

thenewsthata herd

phantsweresomew hereabout,

ednorthandeastto

endo aterri icdow n-

threeo'clockinthe

myportersrushedinw iththe

eld upbyamobo

othersideo theWaiga ,

t,armedto the

a terthestormw ecould

alsthetrumpeting

ntsasthey edinthe

ongbytheriverall that

ngparalleltotheele-

opingagainsthopethat

heWaicrainour direction

must ownIwas

dhavea digatthem,

allowthemtogoand

thisIcould not

hemIshouldhavetohave

rprotection'ssak e, andthen

rightlyorw rongly so ,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

ontinueonour ourney

hind.Theymight

hour, o rtheymighthave

nk ortw oorthree

g.Thechie reported

he hadsentona party

scourthecountry, and

orthesamepur-

camp. Hence orw ard

er our- ootroad,

villageshiddeninthe

ew patcheso simsim

tintervalson therising

gametrack stherew ere

gasharpbendinthe

s aceto acew ithabull

entlyatustodiscoverwhothe

brokenintohissoli-

w o nd e r u l ly u i ck o h e ar i ng ,

tthe irstsoundo our

lydo unlesspreviously

emeantmischie to the

pwithus nowthatthe

ot abighead,but

pecies,whichcarries

bit asnastyasthe

nd u r th e r so u th . A ga i n th e

h,ashedroppedwhere

sbrain.We gathered

thavestrayed romhis


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



pooro aconsiderable

omthe lak eashortw ay

up, w e oundem-

hishind uarterstw o

hhadbeenbrokeno f

tips insidetwolarge

ccounted orhistruculent

thatnativeshadbeen

rsuebu f a loande le -

heyearw ithpo isoned

ystalkedthem,they

apons romclose uar-

danimalsto diea

beingguidedto the

ebirdso preyw hich

. O coursethere isa

tterhow stringentthe

hereisnogameranger

tieswill continue,andthe

ewillcontinuetosu f er. Some

Unyoroelephantwill

carrythe biggest

a lthoughtherearegreat

arethemoreeasilygot at

anycerta inty— thanany

hand,alltheherdsin

asindi,nearKilianongo

otremendouslyshot

thattheirtempershave

herebyin moreor


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

protectthemselves though

tandup againsta

eri le inthehandso

san ioustosecurehis

aloesintheReserve

w hitesportsmanby the

heir ealtowards

totheauthoritiesevery

shotinanypart, e itheron

orin ormationrece ived,

ecausetheyconsider

nspecialper uisiteas

riminateslaughter.I

so anativereporting

andk in orbreak ingthe

anneraree tremely

n, whilstthenumberso

donetodeathi nthis

ndway,wouldbe

ameout.Why,when

vagesbusilyengagedin

edsandundergrowth,one

irbundles o bowsand

eartheremainso their

t iona llthearrowsare ound

you uestionthem

thematter,but tell

heseason ore lephant

sdo armoreharmin


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nwilldointhree, and

voiddetection.There

nryamongthemwherean

oumaysendyour

ownvillagewherehis

a lltheresto hisk ithand

mallcowelephant's

oneyorsheepdown—

ormationthatthere

de.Itseemsodd,but,

ew ill u ie t ly remark that

eaps,buttheycouldn't

w hiteman, ashew as

buyonpurposetoreport

uble.By wayo

elephantsthatwe

havegotawaywounded.

rtusk s Theygetinto

sw hobarterthem or

, and uiterighdy too.

ondo theyshootthem-

undthemdy ingo aw ound

w ho istostopthemso

ycontinues, e ceptan

oesaboutamongst

theirrespect,putsdown

hand Therearegame

herpartso A rica orthe

llgame sure lye lephants,

rmssuchalarge portion


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

rade, needlook inga tereven

otherandlesserbeasts.

e oundthatthelaunch

ved,sowewereable

erdo e lephantsw hich

mething-under i teen

adbeen oundand

buttwodays'search a iled

tainty.As theywere

heyear, amarcha ter

mewhato awild-goose

wn orabit, addedto

ttheyhadnotbeenv iewed,

vebeenashootablebull

y,whilstthesearch

myattentiontothe

andw hist l ingtea lw hich

ycornernearby . Whenen-

orderly becameaware

smallschoo lo hippodis-

elteredbayo Lake

eporto thegunthey

toenablemew ithcertainty

ectiveshot, sosomespecia l

ted. Wescrapeda long

ovewatermarkinpre-

w , whenw ebroughta lo t

andhoa thehippo .

withonegun-bearer,I

mobaway , te ll ingthemto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ullv iew o theanimals.

e llback outo v iew to

poachingourplaceo con-

urselvesdowntoal ong

ippocamecloserin

g toblowatintervals

llyasleep.Atlength

h. I iredatoneo

t te ll w itha loud

sw as o llowedimme-

rgingandboiling o

ad againinappa-

e sankhitagain,

water,showinghis

ard. Andthena

d! I oundIhadshot

ppo. So litt leo them

epthatit ise tremely

atyouareshootingat, andit

, andthere oreshow

thesur ace, thatyouare

All youhavegotto

he irheads. Icanonly

usthavecome upin

gtome— asoneo his

cultywasthattheya ll

withoneeye la ily i ed

ey eareddanger, so

n. I theyhadbeen


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

bablybe acingdi f erent

overymuch,as the

pandcarriedo by

neighbourhood.Ne t

packedup,the start

mydeardogsbe ing

mmorethanha l stupe ied

h i pp o !

w ithtwodogs— one

R a f l e s ) I ' ve e v er h a d,

" D i ck ) . I t w as t h e

shedhimsel ,although

regularly— astheyboth

sy— ando tenle ta large

rdertogoandstea lany raw

bely ingaboutcamp.

I'ma raid,andnothing

heybothsurvivedthe

more theotheris it

ng,notmindingtheclimate

ro ldR a f les!

d. ..anyvoyage

We steamedby

eningtogivethe

o- their oodashoreand

ight'ssleep.Iused

veningtotryandprov ide

d e e r ci s e an d s po r t o r

monotonyo ariver


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



valuableasset or

ntrywhereitwas

nencounterwitha

bedelsewhere,and

elephantwasnot at

dto cutwoodto

henIcameonthe

terashorttrek mydepen-

pandsworetheyhad

t. I u ite thought

as wehadtraversed

However,thesepeople

nthe ungle, soa ter

entoreconnoitrethe

own.Sureenough

heyhadbolted.This

roceedingsinstanter w e

thetrack s, w hichled

heherdbrokeup

wentonew ay , andaboutten

o nature , w hohave

out-o -the-wayspots

uitemarve llousintheir

comestoelephant.

with calveswouldn't

ro r ast, andw ould, by

upw iththebullsnearthe

mightgosome distance

nasemicircle.As


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

asnoshootingparties

heywouldnot havebeen

sence.Wewere,there-

sandletthebullsrip. It

d, butasthenativesw ere

ussion,I didasthey

rseitwasimpossibleto

ntshadgonea terthe ir

seasyenoughto o llow

madeourpath orus.

nddisturbanceashort

appearedonthe scene,

astw a lk w ithhertrunk

bree e. Itw ashardtok now

anttoharmher,and

besideswhich,there

orking ornotsovery ar

ppedandwaited w edidthe

tently.Wedaren't

wa r ds o r e a r o m a ki n g a

lv iew sometw enty - ive

ocked.Shehal

nedoutas uietlyas

dadvancedagainin

andthenw egotclear.

the ungle insucha

wsawideberth,and

theremaindero the

slyagreedupon.When

dthoughtthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



rapidly.Naturally

gthroughthedry

oveascare ullyaswe

anothercrashclose

yoneo those in erna l

.And thiswassome

neo our irstencounter.

dev il inhereyes and

orecow s acingus, w ith

derthem.

o ane lephanthunt

eagernesswehad

tance otherwisemy

orrectintheir suppositions.

mthisaw ulapparit ion,

ehercal , andonour

into thespooro the

ev identlymak ing ora

dsthecow s. Thenthe

dingviolently,waking

usdue noticethat

tobeo f , sotherewas

aketracksatonce. Itw as

ingby the ootmark s, I

ull,andthis wasthe

tIhadhad. Buttherea lw ays

evermet m i edupin

dgetaway!

rkedour ourney to

arkedandprepared or


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

thelasttrekinUganda

. Idon'tk now thatI'm

It 'struemy irst

hillendedinthe great-

beingattachedtothe

arringtrekking,it'stheonly

uitek nock edoverin,

Ihaveservedinthe

s:Somalilandwas

ea lthy EastA rica 'sclimate

c a n' t w is h o r a b et t er a n y-

butI'ma ra idIdon'ttak e

Uganda,andIthink

rothero f icerstherew illbear

dsoonestmended!

terminedto carry

dlonghadbe oreme.

ngosideo theNile

here wasmadeo

sic^ leasedtotheBelgians

itisto betaken

mentwhencertain

ghtalittle knowledge

etacross theNile.

menayovertheway

seriousobstacle,because

wnerswilling tocross

thiswasaccom-

di f iculty, throughthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



w homIhadmetbe ore ,

aw ho lehippo orhimse l

ndonemore orhisv il lage.

ayseem, butIsaw them

eIask edhimtoredeemhis

osay thathew asasgood

wherewecrossed,as

et hotted, sincehis

accordancew iththerules

tothehilt.

longhelda great

andw hatw asbeyond

work navigatingand

emporarygoal,and

rthenight. Ne tmorn-

romaleve lrock y

strik ethenightbe ore .

stood,elevatedper-

romtheriverbed, w asa

e inadvanceo that

orm ilesbehindus, as ar

thelake,until,meeting

ewater, itrano tow ards

andbrok enmasseso

evergreens.Imme-

ew estshoreo theNile

cle rommounta into

strandthatsoonrose

hatelevatedplain.

tchedlimpid,indented


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



OC K HILLS


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

bellishedby antastic

hcountlessislands.A

do thew atersbecame

waswrappedinthe

tcameslowlyrollingalong

ghtmorningbree e. But

resto thehil lspo inted

thewaters oundtheir

theretospreadtheirpure

he suddcountry.To

elyevacuated,withits

houses.Forseveral

mountainsappeared

inion,but,within

diverged, and ina lly

ndy landsacross

dourguide.Along

chboundedtheopposite

lleycloudso l ight

spiral wreaths rom

okinglikethesmoke

ro ll ingla ilydownthe

he ogso the lower

nclearedo wood

nceround,as avillagelay

otherparto thescene

nature , e ceptw here

theview,orthe bold

nakedheadsabove

themountainranges.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



artherto thesouth, rose

darkandluridsmoke,

t inguished romthe

hesprings, andw hichI

o anotherlargevillage

eswere, orthemost

sa a irsprink lingo

lages,owing,I

la rgeconsignmento ivory

om araw ay inlandby

theinteriorherewill

ndwayto bringivory

anto theirown

ldme,as wegive

nc oinorimplements,

steado se i ingita ta

hecommoditiesthey

ce ivingine changeare

utin additiontothese

o t- ironhoes— malotes.

yso bargainingbe ore

t, butthatisha l the

nlesstherehasbeena lo t

rsthat nothinghasbeen

nwallshuttingdown

Nile, oneentersuponanun-

plainsandwoods.These

o alldescriptions

however,wastobeseen


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

ssmoreherdsthan we

untryis notvery-

ack,thosenativeswho

Britishsphereo in-

o. The ew v il lagesnear

opertyo someone

ganda, andwho, having

here willy-nilly.

h-west,towardsa

hills,whencewehoped

thecon ig-urationo the

usua linsingle ile ,

hthetangleo grassand

edsomesi miles

routeascanbe con-

es acacias , w hosethick

artheground,were

ng romthecrevices

^ ranite . Brook so the

hetime-wornchannels

u , andasw ehaltedto

m,thewater tastedas

Europeanspring. The

tw asasuccessiono the

dulationsanddeepver-

mo w hich low edperen-

theserivuletswere

ntaltimber,thegreen

nglywiththedarkgrey

hresembledtheruinso


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



edalongrakindo

edthew atershedtothe

wereachedalarge

eo abouttwoacresin

anedamagni icentpano-

ecountry . Ontheeast

plainsthroughwhich

tched arawaybeyond

ntothegreyoutline

s.Havingdescended

w ecare ullymadeour

nelthat hadbeenworn

therainyseason,and

ground.Uponour

uins, theske letongranite

mounta in, w hich ormeda

ngsun, temptedustohalt.

medinbyagreat wall

ugew hale , someha l a

ty eethigh. F romthe

thisvastblock o ra in-

ckyand antastichill

inetimber. Straight

la tpla in, thenorthend

and beauti ulassem-

k so graniteandsplendid

cia .

wanderingthrough

ouldbemanaged,as

ghtatGondokoro,and


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

campedatnightas

esakeo thev iew asw ell

mos uito -hauntedsw amps.

etraversedwasvast,and

eeto thetiredporters,

mountainstreamen-

thoughtit good

night, a tthe ooto the

arredour progressto

thisconstitutedmy

m, itseemedasi a

y layburiedineterna l

undarising romthe

distantandscarcely

tercourse.Birds,beasts,

slumber,i indeed

obe oundinthat

s. Butthesoundso

murmuringthoughthey

etasko theguides,and

heirway.Themoon

mensepile o black

ngabovethewestern

ed romthe low anddevi-

ainto thehig-hand

woodedplain.Thepath

n,andwecouldplainly

wnighto uson

erein truthentering


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



eroutew asnow pain-

ggedwithrocks and

nddeepwithinthe

the highandbroken

ins.Bleakblackhills

compensatinginsome

nalto ilo themarchby

eyimparted.Atlength

steepandrugged

ouslywounditsway

oidingthe ormerand

helatterinamannerthat

dbymen longpractised

rness.

omthe leve lo the

whichusuallyprecedes

gantodisperse,and

hepla inandpalpable

vebeengi tedby

romthestuntedwoods

sideo themounta in,

pona latandmossy rock

to thechain, w emetthe

gabovethe green

ontheoppositesideo

ewascomparatively

pro itby thek now ledge

ourneytosteerclear

rapidsandsubmerged


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



L. NK IiN

THEBANKSUEUlENILE


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

andasa eandsound

tdelight ultendays'

neonour orward

eAssua river.Itwas

nby thera ins, i notin

inanycasecausesome

thecurrentisalwaysgreat,

rocodilescomeup rom

reyupon thegame

river'sedge.How-

attherew asabigdug-

nsportourkit and

onecollectsonalong

orus.Wearrived

heavyrainstorm,and

gonthebank whilstI

ctthenoticeo thecanoe

urtherbank . Whenthey

the sadnewsthat

adbeenwashedaway

tothesil lyow lincharge

ledithighanddry

od, normadeit astbya

nd allover!The

opso thebanks, and

o the uestion. Im ight

da ew o therest, but

nothing oritbutto


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



endmessengersto

nothercanoe. Wemade

grass,camped,and

ock ne tmorning

hatamiserableone!It

inglebo couldbegot

adtositonthetopo it

yhope o success,

opheavyand wobbly

thatitw asunsa e

done w hateverw edid

strippedandlay

overthetop, holdinga

d,tosee whatwould

vedbeauti ully , butDick

wholeshow iveyards

methodo crossingw as

rossbymysel ,

ast.Eventhenthe

w obbly, andthee ertion

somuchthatitw asclearly

oads— aswellas

erin theday.SoI told

gain,backtothe

hew armtho abig ire .

hop-bo esandlashed

thecanoe,twoabreast,

outriggertogivegreater

ling.Wegavethis

ha heavytent,mysel ,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

ad, toseew hatw ould

cellent,sowe

dthecontrivancewith

w ood. Now thetrue

ervantshoweditse l .

meandtrusted me,

e or ouryears. He

nk o theriver, w hilst I,

gsloadedupand

asanynonsenseordelay

new allaboutit , w ith

daw n, I oundacom-

uge ire , anddinner, ready

beengotover. Itw as

rlyspoilt bythebull-

a rdhal -w ayacrossand

streaminhise f orts

-terriersarethe most

sIk now .

maand theKit,

wemet them,sothey

omparedtothisone.

osstheAssuaonthe

reChurchillhad made

nnearthe Nileitwas

sable . Ne tdayw emade

more, soastohito f the

ndKuyu, theheroo the

tbeelephantthere,

simpossiblesaywith


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



malsmoveaboutin the

neplace.Thusthat

other,andmoreover

essive,andwouldwell

me. Wehadtravelled

o theuplands w ehad

s uareso incipientcult i-

ainstthegreencarpetat

mbereddownthrough orest

l,andwereencamped,

snoo ew hilew ait ing or

o nativesw how ere

d orspoor, w henIw as

keandthemagic word

nt . Thew holecampw asstil l ,

thercreptinlik eamouse

e lephantsw asw atering

eNile. Aboute ighteen

edshadcomedowntodrink

metwohundredyards

ones,cowsand

bullwithabout8o- lb.

averybigbut— they

theCongo.The

tonemoree lephantto il l

noise,butsatopen-

ostinterestingand

hantsdrankand

uirtingwaterovertheir

oswi tanddeepthere


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nceMore

gactua lly into it . One

neck romhismother,

hhertrunk or pre-

nassastoventuretoo

od. Heretiredcrest a llen,

erewasnothingtobe

anditisa pictureI

ortersgotmoreand

tionas Ihadbrought

Bombo, andastheyhad

hinthe irl ivesbe ore , they

knowthattheopposite

tourstoplay inaswe

edwillinbyhavinga

yeasyprey.Assoon

was tobedone,and

store orthem, they

albyhootsand whistles.

erthe wayunderwent

ke atrans ormation

petedands uealed

bout treesswayed

bushesw eresmashedand

dout thee lephants led!

ight, butmyentourage

cares

rredonwardsto

e ourney thenceby

lreadybeendescribed,

ataswell.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



gcountry, irstra te or

theneighbourhood

'tw orthw hilehunting

mesi tymiles romthere .

rains.Andlast,but

ver.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ute orKhartoum,

ne lephantcountry ,

pectedatany

thereturno an

k habar thataherdhad

ampunderalarge

orntreesinasmallclear-

uti ullygreen, andindented

gamethatnightlyused

sneighbourhood.My

dwewereatpeace

itecontented, in act. In

w hilst Iw as astasleep,

derstormswhichare

burstright overthe

I umpedandshouted

nsidemytentandhang

eath,asthewind had

reatguns.Theyget

rbances,andknow

risrendereduntenableby


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



edtocurlthemselves

y te n t a t e rw ar d s.

thehowlingo thega le,

e mb o ! e l ep h an t . I s a id ,

ob! Sureenough,

d— assuddenlyasit

rumpetingo aherdinthe

d,aswehad evidently

ceuponthe ir avourite

tthescouts, andclose

acks,oneo them

dishbull.A bull'stracks

onger thanacow's,

k lesthereareonhis eet

kles,whicharelarge

inedindust,as,when

mtheground, thesuctiono

o thedustroundthe

b u t it w a s ev i de n t, a t e r

eeo too . Perhapsthey

s anyhow , theymeant

acks werenosigns,in

rokentreesandbushespulled

ed. Therew asvery litt le

thecase i theyhad

searesomeo thesigns

ad whentracking

tour a iluretoovertak e


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hElephant

r,as wherethatwas

rstobe ound. So I

acob orthepot, trusting

in news.

dishevelledsavage

tart ingouto hishead,

e lephantw ashardat

ry w ithhispatcho

ploringmeto goand

eaverred,where

e, soweputhimo f t i l l

utelephanthav ing

oughthebigherd

butthereweretwobulls

nabetter ooting. We

tracks tooneorother

aid wereclosetogether,

s.Things assumed

etracksshowedusthat

reecowshadbranched

ggestbullonhisown. Isup-

edand hadturnedthe

thereason,was

the onetothink

couldsee thatwe

sdungwas covered

sandw as uitew armtothe

mewetteras wewent

beentow atera ter


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



on,whichmeantthat

sleephisdinnero f .

l -w ayupthehil l-side ,

mewhato anamphitheatre

he guidestopped

rtearing, rendingsound.

ion,wesaw,three

rancheso asmalltree

ro , uick ly o llowedby

nough therehewas

orsometenminutes,

ll-sideroundthis treein

eseen per ormingthe

havebetokenedthe

theonly animalin

vage isreallyparticular

sisby reasono the

erthanbecausethey

ourgun-bearerin

ntswilltakethegreatest

rectiono thew ind, and

toleavenostone

cautiontobringyouup

thedaybegan. We

dintheanimal'sdirection

o , tak inguphand ulso


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



hElephant

rick le throug hour inders

dblew.Therewassovery

eavesthat thisprecaution

ewthatonceon the

thew indmightbe uite

arter, butw ew eretak ingno

entyminutesbe ore

donly inabito dirty

tthrowingspear,slowly

ngerandbreathed, w ithasigh

H e h a d p er o r me d h is p a rt

th ullyandwell.

ortyyardsaway.

e howstraightthe

ords,howsteady

e. Thewindw asa llright

yyardse itherway , butthe

nda inespecimeninto

e ulsteps rombushto

ully riendly treetrunk

nty- iveyards,whichI

I couldn'tgetaclear

adbetweentheeye

ted orhimtomovein

athew ouldshi thisposition

Tenminutes!I

estep orw ardtoreach

onto hisnose!Hedid

svulnerablepoint.Nerves

ong wait— ithad


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



anhour— upw entthe

dthee lephant. As uick

ehind metograspthe

Ishould indshovedinto

sarealmosttreadingon

However,therewas

nlicherhaddone its

narchhadenteredinto

.Q uiteanicebull

out toscale85lbs.

der ul,butabovethe

o f toca llthe irpals,

ise in act, note cluding

meandhelp cutthe

dsto o ininthew ildorgy

eonthe ie ldo batt le .

lenightandpart o the

, cooking,andeatingas

rcethe leshdow nthe ir

utoutandstartedo f

neo myorderlies, hav ing

seesh toeveryonew ho

pie .

ullwiththethree

otintohistracks, and, as

ctiono mycamp,

p.Soontheyturned

rdsrathertowardsthe

ons.Thentheyseemed


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ntheedgeo hisear

FA GRANDDA SSPORT


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hElephant

rbeneathaclumpo

w erebrok eno and

r o liage, andthegrassand

pulp.On second

thatthisspotwasnot

mw here Ihadbaggedmy

thaveheardtheshot,

wind.Idescried

esringingroundout-

e.

ormastertoshowhe

everlook a oo linthe ir

mup,gavethemthe

p l ai n ed t h e s p ec i al i d ea , a n d

he apprecia tiono the

thee lephanthadheardthe

thehubbubthatensued,

enthattheanimalshad

aightaway,and i

ould indthe irtrack s

, w ithagestureo the

sh e d o f , a n d in a b ou t

houtingthat master

ingw i ard, orhew as

now!Buttheydidn't

ndon, andw e o l-

ckinaline withthe

aw ay, anditw asthen


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ernoon. udgingby the

trackswewerenotgaining

sevidentthattheyhad

andmeantgo ing. I

ne elephantinaday

r e no t a r r o m ca m p

ould eedthatevening

much urther, asthey

w asgettingla te Iw as

dero theday, but

reatpossibil it ies.

wordin theEnglish

swithe pectancy,

proverb,e pectationis

whena ll issa idanddone.

morrowisalwaysin

yesterday ispastandgone

oys, oritssorrows but

ow maybring orth

ateveningwew erea ll

ng,weighing,and

erliescracking okes

howerehavingtheir

w ithgood ood, andimbibing

mev issa ornativebeerthat

d romnowhereinpar-

ssedhimsel in

andta lk aboutgoodw ill

wasn'tinitwithmy


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



»

THEBUDONGAFOREST


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hElephant

pena ir, w henevery -

tohelpeveryoneelse,

sitt ingla ilyunderthe

ightinthe unglewithevery

ta inedundersuchcondi-

memorieso pastscenes

erentplacesandcountries.

memories— puta ew

preadmysel inthepoor

lthoseoldIndiandays

the timewhenone

hotatinsteado be ing

sIw asthisa ternoon!

he littlevillage or

ver, dri t inghomeinthe

dinneratsomepretty

thevariede citements

aga llopingch ik k aatpolo ,

ebyashorthead!

There isnodoubt!

maybeyearsago

ew hours!— andit isa lways

ount. ButI'mo f the

uitesoonenough,and

odesinitstrainevenmore

yesterday.

gardsthesecondbull

veryearly towardsaridge

othousand eethiahand

camp, w hichw asthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



wobigbroadvalleys

Nile , tosee i w ecould

ourintendedvictims

wouldshowus up

hebullandhisladieshad

couldnothavecrossed

ndtheeasternskyw as

wt h th e i r st a i nt l u sh o

ourright rontw eheard

turnedroundand

ingersonthe irl ips. I

rluck in indingthe

ear — wewerenotyet

hemountain.Therewas

ndwaitedtilltherewas

ot, w hilstoneo the

ntothebush orrecon-

backina twinkling

hatitw asadi f erentlo t

bigbulland twosmaller

bare orty - ive

eelephantswereun-

ngasmallwatercourse

, abovethereeds

yedge. Itw asanidea l

k horw assome i teen

callyimpassableto

e.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hElephant

gain hadtowait,as

tweenthebigoneand

ak ingano iseshi t ingto

ky rock w hichshpped

k . Apu f o w ind

asusua lw iththedaw n,

momentarywasenough

Upw entthe irtrunk sw aving

nto oursmell, and

a t a a s t wa l k, s h u f l i ng

hat seemssocurious

theseunwieldy

pace thattheywould

hmyri le— theheavy

hemove— andthebig

s.Thebarrel was

lethimhaveit in

mpedon thespot.

ughttobook! But

gainandbarged

shesandstuntedtrees, smashing

,reelingtoand rolike

othertw o— one in ront

trumpetingand

avingtheir morning

overmy rame

eededsobeauti ully in

thing butcursingw asno

etunderweighat once


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



w asveryhardhitand

l ar, butontheother

ckingtemper,andthe

uiv ivetogivehima

thepro im ityo danger.

mentw eseto tow ards

d orw hichheappeared

his treeourorderly

hapeo ane lephant,

tocrosstheva lleyahead

oad— onthechanceo

kmethat itwouldbe

thoughslower,surertoget

ow itupratherthandash

i s su p po s ed l i ne . I h e w as

hewater,asthey

mighttrek hardinany

Providencethatw e

theyw ento f in uite

hich wehadsupposed—

e orementioned. One

wthecountryherevery

hatthisva lley ledinto

hmountainridge

ratoneo itsdeepest

o chanceo theanimals

n theshallowsand

Hecouldn'tunderstand

hereourdroopingspirits


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hElephant

elongedtowerein this

obviousthatthey

urther, andthatw e

hemagain.Good! But

ureyessk innedi w ehad

withcowsandlittle

ouldtrekonlike

godshadinstore orus.

a lank marchup

osignalwitha white

aw them, andw itharedone

emwithoutsee ingthem.

sary,asthecountry

sebushand stunted

o tostumbleuponthe

aw ares. Itw asnot uite

t once,andwekept

uitesoonhera isedthe

inus. Thisprobably

monsterwasprettysick

ouldnothavecome

keptslowlyonsoas

till mymanmetus

atthebigoneseemed

ngaimlesslyaboutin a

uiteclosetous, but

y thebush. Theman

ertwowere,whichwas

eymightbeonthel ook


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



tumbleoverthem

, andIhad ustturned

stiontooneo my o l-

sawtheelephant's

geo thestonyhollow,

headvancedtowards

arstoand ro , thepicture

vidently to ta llyunconsciouso

ksappeared,andI

e . Every ew stepshe

ewayandthen another,

dwheretogo.Then

dshowedthe vitalspot

mistakethistime,

hon theground.I

oundittwenty-three

mane traone intothe

keassurancedoublysure.

I hadat irsthoped

hantusua llygoes or

dthisonea tertw oand

omcamp, andaboutnine

course , my irstshot

ndeed, asI oundon

lethadonlymissedthe

ngpenetratedthebony

e it. Itw as uiteenough

,butI don'tknow

mbedtothee f ects.

ompanionso the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hElephant

no iseaso o thers

obearinmindw henone

tpossiblythere are

maybeinvisible so,

on'thangabout in

ton,sendingan orderly

ear whathecan.

rise— thecountryw as

adnullahsandbroader

anakedsavagewithrolling

he oy ult idingsthata

y eedingdow nbelow .

omistake!

y terri y ing, but

How many

untingyoungones!

ortyor i ty but

old cowstotake

e.However,there

gotcloseup

ssesintoplayonthe

slowly eedingacross

atno isethew hile ,

strippingthebranchesprepara-

eavesintothe irmouths.

ththem.Wesat

edthemthroughmy

amileaw ay . es!

nother andthena

a lesw iththreeyoungbulls


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ounginabunch.

andwere verynearly

ew indgood.

omingnow ! rommy

adothegun-bearers

hands,and ordered

eoncemore. Wetook in inite

wereverycare ul

ual,thattheyshould not

therthingtobearin

eeding,whichthey

ong, itwil lbe ound

ose carryingthe

melast andasthey

ne 'sbook toatick to

behindincomparative

o theherd, t i l lonegets

bull.

hadbeensum-

to theherdbymy

boutandw aited or

c uiescedinmyen-

ast, a termuch

about,theysaid

oncew ehadstartedaga in

de plainedthatwhen

owlylikethistheremight

uteo acow oryoung

a ily inrearoronthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hElephant

h e a f i r me d a n d t h e

hismouthwhen

ntthe airrightbehind

hingandsmashingo

o f .

Ane lephant. . . prob-

d. . . coming or

herd. . . . Doyou

s ! . . .W h at a r e we t o d o "

. . . soasnotto

Anywhere . . . getouto

... andthenrun

sothatlosing

hereweare. ...

eggeditso ast

ndbushes throughgrass

t re e s m a ki n g no e n d o a

longside .

t. Where isshe

rombehindthenearest

htmare,withgreatears

ndtrunkwavinghigh

worldlikeanancientthree-

ipo Ne lson'sdaywith

ringdownuponme,

dstampingalong,a

ndemoniaca lm ischie bent.

ys , r o m my a i th u l


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



t rightanglestoour

lbehindtheconvenient

, w hilstthe in uria ted

waybetweenmeand

inanother i tyyards

ehumansmellto

ardo elephants

nly i w ounded, it istrue—

decidingthatthis was

droundand ledback

e,backin thedirec-

blow ingacoupleo blasts

attracttheother men.

ndImight have ust

hbath, asw hatw ith unk

bree e inthegrassIw as

enwe o inedupand

s,andI myshattered

ewholethingas

a terabit, thoughIw il l

o rthoughtatthetime.

eenasmustard, not

ecustomary'* back-

erewardsthem orevery

lybecauseo thisla te

ya cow.Onedashed

andreturnedw iththenew s

e ully eeding, andthat

bull— biggerthanthis

theherd.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hElephant

ndI hadrecovered

pursuit.Therewas

dnatureto earnow, as

havegotourwind or

the in uria tedcow long

pursuit.

severalgreatbig

ving.My in ormant,

sted thattherewas

movedgraduallyon

mongstthetrees, irst

ndthenmovingo f

yanother, ti l lthe urthest

h ow e d hi m se l ; t h en I s a w

misin ormedme.

adshotuptodate,

ho theherd.Itwas

tathim, ashew assosur-

butatlasthecameout

the headshot,which

tageo . He e llto the

the groundtryingto

emoniumensued and

tinctlysawtwobulls

theremainder,and,stand-

him, pick himupand

taggeredalong, throw inghis

thenontheother. How -

managedtohithim

yheavycorditeri le ,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



se again,havinghad

oundthreateningly or

m ingdoubtw hetherto

nhisde ence, but, prob-

thattheirpalwas

aseo thetrumpeting

stdisappearinginacloud

dhistusk sprovedtobe

ephantsshot an

ighthaveendedinamost

kilydidn't andsome

habits,particularlythe

woundedbullbeing

histw o riends and

meeight hours!

dlesschatovermycamp

ngw astogetback there.

eamo hack ingoutthe

hatday,leavealoneboth

any , nativesaboutinthat

ur victims,eachin

spearmen, thatnight, return

nyo peoplearmedw ith

s, andbringthe our

eneis^hbourhoodisatall

ousplan,becauseno

ivorybetterthanthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



s/ ore- cct


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



hElephant

theshootinghaving

aittill onehasgone

ndthetusksw illbe ar

hortbyadding

dulyreposedunder

the o llowingevening, though

mprovedahot obunder

esun.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



my irstmeeting

al— antediluvian

henonmytripdown

thewayback

edinall theplaces

elytobe encountered,

le,butneverthebrute

utontoanew place

eshadbeenseenbe ore

dsincebeenseenaga in.

h,soI startedoutone

wingawell-wornhippo-

dge,throughthickbush,

ereached thehigher

miles romtheNile .

untry , Ihade tended

lank tok eepasharp

merousherdso water-

shortlybe oresundown

wardsthecampw ithout


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



b ecto oure pedition.

do enportersw itha es,

our a ll inginw itha

wedus, marchingsomeha l

asIhad iredatacob

themrushedupandbegged

ustseenahippo ast

ughtthisveryodd,as

ow ouldthink o leav ing

oratleastanhourormore ,

atheredthatthesupposed

nonhisnose.

probablytheidentical

o !It 'sper ectlymar-

ensablebutignorant

imalhemaysee.It

sa id, butithadonly ust

tellus !

Theporterw hohad

dw horeturnedw ithmeto

erandgreener about

dicatedtheplace

ensank speechless

entterror.

but wehadn't

oremyorderlypointedout

butitmoved. This

averitablew hiterhino,

s,advancingontheposi-

nda stouttree.I


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



itecloseonaccounto

, andw henhisheadw ent

etriggersoastohit

veyardsaway , gotup,

m,s uealingblue

ppearedina cloudo

oolowonthe

o his oreheadashe

to f w ithlitt lew orsethan

ue ormiles!Iw as,

t i l leddonk ey orhav ing

heevening butthen

bentherene tday ,

ssoclose . Ihonestlybe-

aveactedin thesame

eirluck,insteado

ticularlywantedtill

w.There'smanyaslip,

how easy it istomiss

vealone moonlight!

le tosay thatI

unetobagaw hiterhino .

t ingandslaving a ter

nthevainendeavour

oht irstra tek habar a ter

smentionedbe ore.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



nggivenupthe

aginingthatIw asnot

hesemonsters thatthey

emselvestokeepouto

avouritelocalities

hew ouldgoonand

prescribeddurationo

ailed,evenheavy

to indone orme: ti l l , as

ostune pectedplace ,

adbeenharried and

ypursuito elephant,

magicundermyvery

ya terteatobepen-

myri le— onenever

y circumstances— upa

ringedoneithersideby

hetopso thesteep

hebirdsinthetrees

ueso theirplumage

ringmywalk,and I

nsearcho the la iro

ield-mouse,whencrunch!

thenullahcame a

othe sublime!

unteringalongon

liberatione ua ltomy

oundourse lves ace

cesapart. Iw as uiteas


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ood or ullyha l a

neanotherbe orehe

pecimeno hissw orn

athew asoneo therare

onderingthematter

pig- l ike ashion, ev idently

t hehadlittledesire

ntance, soturnedhisunw ieldy

I hadbythistime

nsessu f iciently to turn

c h o t h e ri l e , an d l et d r iv e a t

eredtomyshotasheturned

ok immediatee f ect

nthe loor, andlay lik e

eshimmeringsand.

tune, or,asI havesaid,

nohadvanishedages

evensettingeyesonone

ndous.

hisglory.White

ck incolour, insteado the

A r i ca n b ro t he r s u a re -

s uare lipishisspecial

ownero tw onicehorns,

^inches.A trophyto

thehornstooksomelittle

theywereready

all.MeanwhileIhad


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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s



assomew ayonmyreturn

hav ingle tthecarcase

w — w henIhearda

gmypath,immediately

ndthenathird!

eit noted,arehere

hdenseundergrowth.

allymergesinto orest

r.I had,there ore,

dvancingtowardsme.

unks,whichbecame

e, asIe pectedto

st anotherrhino,to

by the lighto the

ser,andI became

yetnearerdrewthe

ndsa lw aysappeartobe

tninginthestil ln ight— and

paredtodoordie , w hena

broketheaw ulsilence,

paniono the launch—

s eelings!ByGad !

gleinthetwilightthat

todarkness— notan

sts ormorethanha l an

omwhichwillbepitch

tes— andseew hatit ee ls

gameit is, be ingsup-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



coming aceto acew ith

latthathour inhis

,thenewsspread

ewas arhinotobe

edwitheagerporters,

uta llan ioustoget

pretedmeantthat once

asetheyw ouldstu f

ta llhopeo amoveonthe

the uestion. During

botheredby them,

sibletill 1toldthem

dtheo ld- ashionedra or

angledgardenrak es orme—

bo savagesaremaking

ttheoperation.The

twhythewhiteman

o soaponly toscrape it

atthecarcasewas

heyhadbetterwaittill

thstandingthis,andtheir

ingeatenupbysomenoc-

ecampwaspractically

ndonmyreturntothe

sighto thesesavages

Su f ragettesw eren't in it


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



their stomachs,and

tsitt ingIsaw aso lid

men lourishinglong, sharp

andscreamingatthe

ng,hacking,andhewing

edcarcase.Great

leshw erebe ingthrow n

edstomachhadlongsince

ingwithbloodwere

ndthemangledremains

in everyavailable

thecompany , whohadnot

ana rontseatatthis

musement, w erepushingand

orceaw ayundertheir

esin ront. Otherscon-

rustingtheirlongsharp

rsorbetweenthelegs

owerenearest,them-

and in'a rds rom

eactuallystruggling

rcase itse l .

ne 'scousinsorone 'saunts

e this,Iwouldback

otheprivacyo the irtents,

andpray ormercyat

upposedcannibals,whose

d,presumedly,bewell

rgy hadterminated.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



G

this

oundonthe

We

w aterbuck

arbehindusinBrit ish

othesouthw ards sothere

rumstobeso lvedhereas

r wherewhichis

oe istamongstsomeo

d.

t oradayw iththe

terthereddeeronE -

struckatthee tra-

alcolouring,aswell

thereddeerto this

at irstsightheshouldbe

ger.iButtherethe

rnsare uitedi f erent,

rdsandoutwards,up

eanother thickand


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



,theyrun to30inches

en longer.Q uite

mberso theAnglo -C ongo-

ntoldmethathehad

es. Iamnotcerta inthat

Thisw as w aydow n

ver,whichwanders

posingunderR ew en ori's

, andhisheadmakesa

, buthis lesh, alas!is

toostrong orus, but

it, andalsoinhis

dividedupbymasterin

stributed amongst

throughtheirsandals.

estheir eet romthe

henmarchinginwater

andalsaretakeno f and

ts,so astosavethem

hroughoutany

es,and,ashis name

greatdistance rom

ogetherina large

so or, ontheotherhand,

w i ll b e o u nd g r a i n g

wnintheshe ltero some

hchtheyproposetosnoo e

ay, t i l l intheevening


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



uietlystrollingdownto

heyarepo liteandpar-

yto theladiesin

orthesimplereason

brutestak e o llygoodcare

ughtersalongraheadto

onorw hatnotbe orethe

ghtandcanspot a

wa y o f , w hi l st a w h i f o

w ithoutmuchchance

somelitt lew ay. How ever,

u sh o r , sa y , i t y y ar d s, t h er e

neorothero themstand-

d makeassurance

hatyouare.Thatis

ndstand uietlyw a it ing

o runninga im lesslyabout

eathandthere oreshaky .

o emalesstanding

uck , haveagoodlook

eyouw ill indhim

abushtil l it ist imeto

eedinga longorseen

llprobabilitybea

hanthosew ith amilies.

boratedtimeswithout

you wantasyour

hosehal - si ed, undergrow n


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



rbuck'sheadis apt

youare tryingtomake

w oorthreetoshootas

ereallydread ully

ck atthebaseonly , that

psistoo youngand

thatseemsbigandw hose

tesmall buttheheadthat

asslightlymorethan

omeetatthetipsisthe

icult, butit isw orth

ormerheadswillusually

andk ids the la tterw ith

or morelikelyby

: youmayo tenmeeta

teentotwentybuck sw ithouta

thesewillhavesuch

uldseethe owners

table andthe largest

smallest there oreappear

oushead.Don'tyou

one.Itisrather

ha lo to bucksarea ll

ewoldstagershave

erds atonceandgiven

heordero theboot.

earany riverinUganda

w ithin uitee tra -

ahr-el-Zera inthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



CE

citedas TheUganda

heProtectorate meansthe

meanshunting, k il l ing, or

andincludeseveryattempt

molesting.

ere ine presslyprovided, means

thandomesticated,butdoes

bia, ishesandinvertebrate

nimalmentionedinanyo the

m e an s a E ur o pe a n O f i c er i n t he

gandaorEastA ricaorZan ibar

periorEstablishmento the

f i c er o o n e o H i s Ma e s ty ' s

anstation, oraEuropean

serviceo theSudanGovernment.

nativeo A rica , notbe ingo

eorparentage.

erson orthetimebeingresident

ingapublico f icerora

apersonwhov isitsthePro -


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

orsportingpurposes,not

r, sett le r, oranative.

heprincipa lC ivilO f icerin

theProtectorate .

c he d ul e s r e e r t o th e S ch e du l es

nce.

sshe isauthori edbyaspecia l

hallhunt,kill,or captureany

nedintheFirstSchedule.

she isauthori edbyaspecia l

ce,shallhunt,kill, orcapture

smentionedintheSecond

b e a i m ma t ur e o r b a e ma l e

.

authori edunderthis

orcaptureany animalmen-

ule.

, i hethinks it , byPro-

imal romanyo theSchedules,

o anyspecies,variety,orse

storbirdnot mentionedinany

ddedtoa particularSchedule,

y speciesorvarie tyo animal

neScheduleshall betrans-

dule , and, i hethinks it , apply

holeo theProtectorate,or

other area.

terprovidednopersonshall

ectorate orsa leorshallw ithinthe

hase, oro f erore pose orsa le

n, eather, lesh, oranyother

ntionedinanyo theSchedules,

nkept inadomesticatedstate.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



terprovidednopersonshall

heProtectorate orsa le , orsha ll

l l, o rpurchase, oro f erore -

cheggunlesstheostrichhasbeen

te.

a llknow ingly store , pack, convey , or

nyparto anyanimalorany

easontobelievehasbeen

o thisOrdinance.

anyanimaloranyheads, horns,

orotherremainso anyanimals

eSchedulesheretoshallbe

theyhavebeenobta inedincontra-

ce .

ngany thingconta inedinthis

anyheads,horns,tusks,

eremainso anyanimalsmen-

maybeso ldinthe o llowing

lowingcondit ions: —

m pa r t o t h e e st a te o a d e ce a se d

orGeneralorper-

suchdeceasedperson,

Courtgrantingprobate

paymento such ee

e ceeding20rupees,

e en o r e i te d ,b y o rd e r o t h e

eCourtbywhichthey

or e ited.

rsub-section5o thissection

asebe givenacerti icate

nddeclaring thattheyhave

ertheprov isionso thisOrdi-

ateshallbeevidencethat the

dthearticles incontravention


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

nedinthissectionsha llprevent

er, o re porto e lephantivory

ichhavebeenobtainedwith-

hisOrdinance.

amentionedinanyo the

yaccident,or whenthe

nyanimalshallbe ound, the

eatherso suchanimalshall

sionermaywaivethese

maydeem it and,

sionermaydirectthepay-

rsonssok il l ingor indingsuch

erthecosto transporto any

n and,

pa id orthe indingo

a terprovided, anyperson ound

ing, trans erring, ore porting, or

er, o re portanymalee le-

thanelevenpoundsor any

oranypieceso ivorywhich, in

icerengagedintheciv iladminis-

P rotectorate , ormedparto a

relevenpoundsinweight,or

t' s t us k , sh a ll b e g ui l ty o a n o f e n ce ,

inenote ceeding1000rupees

ento eitherkind,ortoboth,

a tusk shallbecon iscatedun-

llotherwiseorder.

eC ommissioneroranyperson

missionerinthatbehal may

rwithintheUgandaProtectorate

heUgandaProtectorateany ivory

entorcon iscatedunderthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



anceoro anyR egulationor

sOrdinance.

ssessed, so ld, trans erredor

v isionso the lastpreceding

tivelymarkedwithsuch

s theCommissionerby

f icia lGa ettemayappo int.

trans ereeo any ivorysoso ld

eprov isionso sub-section2o

ypossesssuchivoryandmaylaw-

ry romtheUgandaProtectorate.

sub-sectionio thissection

ylaw ullypossessedbyany

epublicationo thisOrdinance,

allwithin threemonths

thisOrdinancebeproducedor

orwho shallmarksuch

suchmannerasthe

nt.

poison,or,withouta

miteorothere plosive or

ny ish.

Commissionerthatany

orcapturinganimalsor ish

ay,byProclamation,pro-

ibe theconditionsunder

eused andi anyperson

ited,oruses anymethod

otheconditionsso pre-

tothesamepenaltiesas

Ordinance.

s Ordinance,orbyany

dinance,anypersonmay

imal notmentionedin

rany ish.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

scribedintheSi thSchedule

dtobe gamereserves.

heapprovalo theSecretary

mationdeclareanyother

ratetobea gamereserve,may

tso anyGamereserve , andthis

erysuch gamereserve.

dinthisOrdinance, anyperson

sanyanimal inagame

hinagamereserveundercircum-

asunlaw ullyinpursuito

o abreacho thisOrdinance.

nermaybynotice , tobepublished

mpt romprotectionanyanimal

o 'thissectionthetermanimal

cludereptiles,amphibia,

eanimals.

.

esmaybegrantedby the

ectororsuchpersonor

edbytheCommissioner,

ense

c er ' s l ic e ns e

e

c en s e a n d

allbepayable orlicenses,that

an'slicense750rupees, ora

seoraSett ler'sl icense150rupees,

nse45rupees, and oraBird


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ptashere ina terprovidedbe

o n ly r o m th e d at e o i s su e .

f icer'sl icensemaybe

eiodo 14consecutivedays

o 30rupeesbutnoothersuch

sucho f icerw ithinaperiod

mthedateo issueo suchlicense.

enamein ullo the

ted, thedateo issue, the

andthesignatureo theC om-

herpersonauthori edtogrant

semay bere uiredtogive

,not e ceeding2,000

cewiththis Ordinance,andwith

i any containedinhislicense.

rable .

oducedwhenca lled orby

ProtectorateGovernment, andany

withoutreasonablecauseto

orsha llbeguiltyo ano f ence

this OrdinanceaCol-

i edtograntlicensesshall

ticularinstructionso the

andaPublicO f icer's

ri etheholderto hunt,kill,

nyo thespeciesmentioned

unlessthelicenseother-

anthenumbero each

secondco lumno thatSchedule.

man'sorPublicO f icer's

Ordinancemayby the

killor captureadditional


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

eciesonpaymento suchaddi-

escribedby theCommissioner.

specialcasesgrant,at

aSportsman'slicensetoaperson

er'slicense.

ori estheholderto hunt,

thespeciesandtothe

ourthScheduleonly.

icer'sl icensesha llnotbegranted

icer, andaSettler'sl icensesha ll

toaSett ler, butaSportsman's

Settler.

Sett ler'sorLandho lder'sl icense

ndtake outaSportsman's

acasethesumw hichhasbeen

urrenderedlicenseshallbe

w hichsuchpersonw ould

opay oraSportsman'slicense

'slicensesograntedshall

teasthatonw hichthesur-

vee piredandthatall

underthe surrendered

stheanimalswhich maybe

e Sportsman'slicense.

aPublicO f icer'sl icense

icerduringthecurrencyo such

ereupone pire.

rsonw hose licensehase pired

thissectionalonetakesout a

mwhichhasbeen paidby

the licensesoe piredsha ll

sbededucted romthesum

bere uiredtopay ora

allanimalskilledunder


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



piredshallcounttowards

killedunder theSports-

rtsman'slicenseshalle pire

nwhichtheoriginal license

theho lderthereo hadcontinued

.

esegrantedtoapublico f icer

publico f icer'sl icense, ora

segrantedtoapersonwhohas

f icer's ourteenday license,

n si m o nt h s o t h e e p i ry

e, authori e theho ldertok il lo r

o animalsas,withthe

underthe ormerlicense,will

e d o r a p ub l ic o f i c er ' s li c en s e.

toaPublicO f icer's

cehas beengrantedinthe

e, thatlicensesha llauthori e

capturegameinthe Uganda

sasi thelicensehadbeen

ectorate,providedthat

stindorsedbyaCo llectoror

icero theUgandaProtectorate :

horitytokill orcapture

mittedunderthecorrespond-

void.

landmay tak eouta land-

sotakeout asimilarlicense

nypersonpermanentlyemployed

theland.

onlypermitgametobe

ontheland o theholder

employerwhohastakenoutthe

notauthori eanimalsintheF irst


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

esoryoungo animalsmentioned

behuntedkilledorcaptured.

a llperm ittheanimalsmentioned

hedulestobehuntedkilled

ationo thenumbero animals

turedthereincontainedshall

rw iseprov idedinthissectionthe

slicensew illbesub ectina ll

thisOrdinance.

a landholder'slicense

e, animalskilledorcaptured

andholder'slicense,shallnot

heis entitledtokillunder

ervant, indingananimal

sspoilinghiscrops ordoing

ayk il lthesamei suchactis

ctiono hiscropsorho lding, but

to theC o llectoro thedis-

head,horns,tusks,and skin

theGovernment,andshallbe

may direct,

heScheduleskilledor

a licenseotherthana land-

ate landatthere uesto the

tiono hiscropsorho lding

numbero animalsthatper-

hislicense butinsuchcase

dskinso suchanimalsshall

Government,andshallbedealt

rect.

sha ll, sub ectto theprov isions

etheho ldertoshootanyo the

thScheduleonly.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



onermaybyProclamationorder

rotectoratetobeclosed or

heProclamationin respecto

anyora llspecieso w ild

sha llk i l lo rcaptureorattempt

eanswhatsoeverorwhoshall

wild birdcapturedincon-

on2o thissectionw ithinthearea

nisapplied andwithinthe

nshallbeguiltyo ano f ence

allbe liabletobeconvicted

sub-section3o thissection or

no suchw ildbirdi hesatis ies

he ischargede itherthat: —

pturingo suchw ildbird, i ina

theprovisionso sub-section

eenappliedw aslaw ulatthe

on bywhomitwaskilledor

sk il ledorcapturedinsome

ionso sub-section2o this

itledtohunt,kill,or cap-

thescheduleson private

anotherpersonotherthanhis

licensedunder theprovisions

rto theCommissioner or

vereasons,hemaygranta

n,not beinganative,tokill

nyoneormorespeciesmentioned

s or, tok il l, hunt, orcapture in

edbeastsorbirdso prey, orother


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

sdetrimentaltothepurposes

or, inpart icularcases, tokil l , o r

e, inagamereserve,an

nyoneormorespeciesmentioned

hethinks it,grantaspecial

peanor American,resident

earagamereserve,to killor

andno iousanimalsinsuch

rtthereo assha llbede inedon

sub ecttosuchcondit ions

i a n y , n u mb e r, s e , a n d ag e o

ason orhunting,andother

onermayprescribe.

ho ldero aspeciall icensesha ll

ra lprov isionso thisOrdinance,

ngto holderso licenses.

ybyruleprescribethe

uedundertheprov isionso this

eepa registero the

byhim inthe ormspeci ied

ereo shallbesubmitted

, butnotless re uently thanonce

arestCollectororAssistant

ersigntheentriesupto date

ograntlicensesmayatany

holdertoproducehisregister

semustw ithin15daysa ter

produceorsendto theCollector

ichheresidestheregister, and


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



eanimalsk il ledorcapturedbyhim

ense a ilstok eephisregister

uiredby thissectionhesha ll

enceaga instthisOrdinance.

yrevokeanylicensewhen

ho lderhasbeenguiltyo abreach

onso thisOrdinanceoro thecon-

hasconnivedwith anyotherper-

thatinany mattersinrelation

wisethanin good aith.

yathisdiscretiondirect

Ordinancesha llbere usedto

sehasbeen lostorde-

eshlicense ortheremainder

o sucha eeasthe licensing

te ceedingR s. 5.

erthis Ordinanceshall

kill,orcaptureanyanimal,or

opertywithouttheconsent

r.

erhavingkilledorcaptured

do thespeciesauthori edby

nt,kill, orcaptureanyani-

o ri edtok il lo rcapture , sha ll

thisOrdinance.

ymento ho lderso l icenses

stsuchholderso licensesin

notuse ire-arms.

o theprovisionso thissec-

rylicenseholderconcernedinthe

or e iture , andsuchlicense

ano f ence.

nypersonauthori edby


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

, athisdiscretion, re uireany

rmsorammunitionthatmaybe

rthepurposeo k il l inggameor

licenseunderthisOrdinance,

w the ire -armsorammunit ionto

cwarehouseuntilsuchl icenseis

esaid,nothinginthisOrdinance

sionso TheUgandaF ire-arms

nyOrdinanceamendingor

me.

byNatives

anynativetribeorthe

nyvillageappeartobedepen-

w ildanimals orthe irsubsistence,

rictmaywiththe approvalo

eraddressedtotheChie o

thev illage, authori e the

sthecase maybe,tokill

ndsub ecttosuchconditions

number, species, andse o

maybeprescribedby theorder.

nsha llnotauthori e the

entionedintheFirstSchedule.

rdinancewithrespectto

lnotapply toamembero a

avillagetowhichan order

generalprov isionso this

erynativewhois authori ed

breacho anyordersha llbea

ce.

istrictmay,withtheapproval

rantalicense,similarto a

ense,toanynative,upon such


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



thercondit ionsastheC ommis-

m issionermayw iththeapprova l

granttoanynativeChie ahcense

abesub ectto thecondit ions

dunderthis Ordinance,and

eo sha llbe150rupees.

ed romelephantsk il ledunder

akentothenearestGovern-

arkedinsuch awaythatit

personpossessing,buying,or

hhas notbeensomarked

f enceagainstthisOrdinance.

ermaymakerulesastothe

mannerin whichsuchivory

antsare ounddoingdamageto

roccupierthereo cannot,

posa l, drivethemo f , the

here uesto suchoccupierkil l

uche lephants.

thee lephantssha llbereported

stcivilo f icer, andthe ivorysha ll

to him.TheChie andthe

alleachbeentitled toreceive

voryastheCommissionermay

theelephantsshallbelongto

mbas.

icero theUgandaPro -

dient orthepurposeso veri-

a licenseho lder, o rsuspectsthat

tyo abreacho anyo the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

anceoro thecondit ionso his

search, orauthori eany

o inspectandsearch, anybaggage,

building,orcaravanbelonging

suchpersonorhisagent, and

dsanyheads, horns, tusk s, sk ins, eathers,

animalsappearingtohavebeen

ppearingto havebeencap-

thisOrdinance, hesha llse i e

reaMagistra tetobedea ltwith

ned,anypersonwhohunts,

alsin contraventiono this

mmitsanybreacho the

anceoro thecondit ionso his

n, be liabletoa inew hich

pees, and, wheretheo f encere-

ntwo, toa ine inrespecto

tendto500rupeesandin

nto eitherkindwhichmay

w ithorwithout ine

whoshoots,kills,or cap-

kill, orcapturebirdsin

dinanceshallnotbe liabletoa

0rupeesnorimprisonmento e ither

nth.

anyostricheggsorany

orotherremainso animals

no theo f enderorhisagent,

din contraventiono this

to or e iture.

distheho ldero a licensehis

theCourt.

ngunderthis Ordinance

C ourtmayaw ardanysumor


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



l thetota l inetoany in ormer

meinto operationonthe

1906.

ationsandOrdinancesand

ndRulesthereunderare

tions,1900 No.25 .

tions,1900 No.32 .

ations,1901 No.io 1901 .

tionsAmendmentOrdi-

1 9 0 3 .

nce,1903 No.13o 1903 .

nce,1904 No.io 1904 .

tionsAmendmentOrdi-

1 9 04 .

4 No.12o 1904 .

tionsAmendmentOrdi-

1 9 0 5 .

aproceedingshavebeenbegun

gulationsorOrdi-

continuedasi this

acted.

hasbe orethecommencement

mittedanyo f enceaga inst

dRegulationsorOrdi-

anybreacho any

nylicensegranted

dedagainstandpun-

cehadnotbeenenacted.

underthesa idrepea ledR egu-

piredatthecom-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

inanceshallremainin

orw hichtheyw eregranted,

dnotbeenenacted.

oner.

1906.

ed,killed,orcaptured,byany

ecialLicense.

es , anyspecies.

.

o r yo u ng .

.

.

Ba lcsnicepsre ) .

EpphippiorhynousSenegal-

learicd .

.

m al e .

o r yo u ng .

f emale .

w hicharenottobehunted, k il led,

panyingtheiryoung,a7tdyoungo

rede ceptunderSpecialLicense.

erii im .

llesnotmentionedinthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



o whichmaybekilledor

an'sorPublicO f icerslicense.

ceptinthe o llowing

otpro-

ctoria , the

es—

Beisa

agus .

cerusIsaaci

male .

monkeys

opus

s

.

toptilus

ies

es—

sein ClassA


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

o w iichmaybek il ledor

cense.

ceptinthe o llowinglo

notpro-

ctoria , the

pesandGa ellesonly : —

,

e l le ,

rv i ca p ra .

ao ph i is .

O r eo t ra g us .

h ap h ic e ro s .

C ob u s .

T r ag e la p hu s R ou a le y ni .

alendar

malso asingle

videdhoweverthat

so anyone

g theperiod

available.

nderaBirdLicense sub-

stocloseseasons .

t ionedinanyo the irst


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



rtingtheBudongaF orest,

a .

theAlbertLaketothe

a .

k o t he R iv er W a a r om i ts

asindiR oad.

uldbeknownasthe BuDONGA

o t h e Ri v er M p an g a r o m

draw n romthesourceo

ourceo the

.

nk o t h e Ri v er D u ka l a W a sa

Semlik i.

k o t h e Ri v er S e ml i ki r o m

DU K AL A W a sa R i ve r

ce ollowing

nt duewesto

MuPUKU Mabuk u

tothesource o

buk u .

nk o t h e Ri v er M u PU K U

hinLak eR uiSAMBA

rnshoreso Lak e

theMpanga.

beknownasthe TOROGame


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



da

satruerecordo a llanimals

orateunderthelicense

m in i ng O f i c er .

f i c ia l G a e t te o t h e Ug a nd a

berist,1907:—

andaGameOrdinance,

ono theMostHonour-

ActingCommissioner orthe

ebyremovethenameo the

romallSchedulestothe

1906,inwhichitappears.

bydeclarethatthis

nlytothearea comprised

iles romtheBusiroSleeping

a.

907.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



NS

RESERVATION

RDS

o llows: —

ment

ted asthe Preservation

nce1903 andshallcommence

WildAnimalsOrdinance

e ceptinso arasitrepeals

therebesomething

t: —

Capture, Kill, and In ure

mptingoraidingtohunt,

.

ngO f icer denoteany

by theGovernorGeneraltogrant

meansnoti iedintheSudan

nce includeanyregulation

scribedunderthe provisions

orthetimebeingin orce .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



malsandBirds

eo thisOrdinanceWild

ed into ourClasses,here-

lyClassi,Class2, Class3,and

andC lass3shallcomprisethe

iedinPartI, PartII, andPart

irstschedulehereto .

udea llw ildanimalsandbirds

astschedule.

eneralmayatany timebynotice

etteremoveanyanimalor

includeanyanimalorbirdin

AbsolutelyProtected

erthananativeo theSudan,

licenceornot, shallk i l l , in ure ,

birdincludedinClassi.

g, in uring, orcapturingany

ntiono thissectionshall

ceeding y , . 100orto im-

dnote ceedingthreemonths.

icences

thehunting, capturing, andk il l-

b irdsincludedinC lass2and

egrantedby theLicensing

tiontoanypersonapply ing orthe

beo tw ok indsca lled

Licence B.

hananativeo theSudansha ll

imal orbirdincludedin

oldero aLicenceA.

hananativeo theSudansha ll


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



imal orbirdincludedin

oldere ithero aLicenceA

icencesha llduringthecurrency

eork illagreaternumbero

speciesincludedinC lass2or

speci iedinthe irstSchedule

eo suchspecies,

eneralmayatany timeby

ettea lterthenumbero any

rdincludedinClass2orin

turedorkilledbythe

espayableby theho lderso the

o llows: —

f i c er o r O f i c ia l o t h e Br i ti s h

mentservinginEgyptor

oapprova lo theGovernor

narilyresidentin the

ilytoreside there.

&. i

erperson.

ceAobta inedatthe ^ E. 5

icensingO f icera eeo

phantk il ledbyhimundersuch

a nd L i ce n ce B s h al l e c e pt

oraryLicenceBhere ina ter

o r ce o r o ne y e ar r o m th e

thene pire .

aLicenceAorLicenceB

anagreementbytheholder


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



stocon ormtotheprov isions

no licencesha llbetrans er-

cebe lostordestroyeda

obta inedonproo o such

mentto theLicensing

eo P .T .2 5.

beatersandotherassistantsa iding

AoraLicenceBtohunt,

orbirdwhichsuch licence

hislicencetohunt, captureor

so acting,bysuchlicence.

aLicenceAoraLicenceB

allanimalsandbirdscaptured

speciesincludedinC lass2or

herspeciesmentionedinhis

givethe dateandplaceo

chanimalorbirdcapturedor

eachsuchanimal. Everysuch

esuch accounttogetherwith

duponto dosobyany

danGovernmentandsha lldelivera

ignedbyhimse l to theLicensing

pira tiono hisl icenceoruponhis

ver irsthappens,asalso,i

ngO f icer orthepurposeo

ns,uponsuchother dayas

e licence.

leaLicenceBcontinuesin

eaveo theLicensingO f icer

cenceAonpaymento the

he eeschargeable orsuchlicences

itutedlicenceshalle pire

inal licencewouldhave

cenceBmaybea lsograntedat


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ensingO f icer oroneormore

P . T . 25.

g, in uringorcapturingany

raventiono sub-sections

4 o t hi s se ct io n or r e u si ng t o pr od uc e

ntasa oresaidw hencalled

ganincorrectaccountshall

ceeding e. 100orto imprison-

ceedingthreemonths.

nginthisOrdinancecon-

ero anycultivatedlandor

byhimmaycapture , in ureor

dscausingseriousdamage

amagecannototherwisebe

dinganythinginthisOrdi-

nshallbe deemedtohave

ceunderthisOrdinanceby reason

n uredanyanimalinde enceo

erson.

captureork illanyo the

in ClassIV.

heSudan

thehunting, capturingandk il ling

ero animalsandbirdsincludedin

pecialcasestonativeso the

nceshall beissuedonly

eGovernorGeneral,andshall

he eepayable inrespecto

edby theMudiro the

ed.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



h e Su d an n o t be i ng a h o ld e r o a

rcaptureanyanimalorbird

eSudansha llemployany ire -

yanimalorbirdincludedin

whethersuchnativeshall

nceC ornot,

eaboverestrict ionsanynativeo

reandkill anywildanimal

heSudanactingincontravention

thissectionshallbe liabletoa

e . 10 o r t o im p ri s on m en t o r a

reemonths.

theSudanw ho is oundinposses-

irdincludedinC lassil iving

o suchanimalorbirdsha llbe

pturedsuch animalorbird

wn.

CertainAnimals

purchaseo thehides, hornsor

ieso anyo theanimalsandbirds

dulehereto isabsolutely

p o se o r o f e r o r s al e o r co l le c t

sesanysuchhides, horns, lesh

gincontraventiono thissection

note ceeding ^ E. 10orto

iodnote ceedingthreemonths,

ndtrophiessopurchasedor

rsa leorcollected ortradepurposes

cation.

u nd i n p os s es s io n o a n ys u ch


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



phiesshallbe deemedtohave

radepurposesunlessthe con-

tobe Sold

urchaseo hides, horns, lesh

wildanimalsandbirdsotherthan

ondscheduleheretoare

adva loremdutiesshallbepa idin

es, horns, leshorothertrophies

ownor villageo any

purposeso tradeore ported

mushides20per cent.

sandthe lesh, hornsorother

rbirdcomprisedin thissection

lesh, hornsandtrophiesbrought

ageasa oresaidsha llbe

ere orthepurposeo trade

wn.

allonlybepaidonce inrespect

ryo f icia lrece iv ingpayment

e uiredgivetotheperson

sswhichshall authori e

especto w hichdutyhas

ace withoutpayingany

licence issuedhereundersha ll

orthesaidduties inrespect

des, hornsorothertrophiesobta ined

ndanytravellerleavingthe

totak ewithhim reeo the


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



n ive innumbero suchhides,

nmakinga declaration,

yarenotsotaken ortrade

llnotapply toe lephants'tusk s

lingtopayorattemptingto

ythissection onanyhides,

ophiessha llbe liabletoa ine

estheamounto thedutyand

eshandothertrophiesshallbe

Animals

e r t h e da t e o t h is O r di n an c e

ingtothesca leset orthinthe

be leviedoneachliving

orbirdmentionedin thethird

rtta sha llnotbe lev iedinrespect

portedby theho ldero a licence

ancewiththeterms o such

lingtopayorattemptingto

ythissection onanyanimal

inenote ceedingthree

edutyandthesa idanimalor

iscation.

e r t h e da t e o t h is O r di n an c e

henorthbya linedraw n rom

stby theBlueNile rom

Frontierandthenby the

otheBaroRiver onthe


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



o its unctionw iththeSobat

batRiverto its unctionw ith

WestbytheWhiteNile shall

ewithinwhichnoperson other

anresidinginthe saidsanctuary

f icia lssta tionedinthesameand

dorsedontheir licenceshall

ildanimalorbird.

r th e d at e o t h is O r di n an c e th e

orthbya line rom ebelein

y theBlueNilebetween

theSouthbya linedraw n

ndtheWestby theWhiteNile

leinshallbeareservewithin

nativeso theSudan

nshavingaspecial permit

shallhunt, captureorkill

h specialpermitshallbe

theLicensingO f icerand

thesa idDistrict, toO f icers

e Su d an G o ve r nm e nt a n d to O f i c er s

eBrit ishandEgyptianGovernments

y linesbetw een ebeleinand

kaandFamakashallbehere-

de inedbyanotice issuedinthe

gincontraventiono this

inenote ceeding ^ . 100

atermnote ceedingthree

ce s

sionso the lastpreceding

LicenceBshallbe valid


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



ethatnolicence shallbe

Sudantow hichunderany

orthetimebeingin orce

licenceho ldertoproceedand

lidinanyparto theSudan

nis re uiredunlessendorsed

authoritybyw hichsuchper-

oved

etherhe istheholdero a

veordisturborin urethe

anyotherbirdw hichmay rom

withoutthewrittenpermission

c er .

er orbidden

shoot romasteamere itherat

brdoratanyanimale cept

dile.

o ttobeusedonF ish

useanypo isonordynamiteor

o r t he t a ki n g o a n y i s h.

gincontraventiono this

inenote ceeding ^ . 5or

ntto imprisonment oratermnot

enti icPurposes

Genera loranyO f icerauthor-

ecia lendorsementona licence


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



statednumbero animalsand

eneralmaydispense romthe

ctionso thisOrdinanceashe

ub-sectionio section13any

uchdispensation orthepurpose

nordispensationgivenhereunder

me.

andsmallIvory

anttusksweighingless

otherweightasmaybenoti-

e isl iabletobecon iscatedand

Magistra te , PoliceO f iceror

heCiv ilAdministra tionwithout

i s ca t io n s ub e c t to a r i gh t o a p pe a l

srateo the istor2ndClass

n.

eral

Genera lmay romtimetotime

eSudanGa ettee erciseallo r

p ow er s t h at i s t o sa y —

cribeanymatterw hichisle tby this

dorprescribed.

t imeorclosetimesduringw hich

eci iedinsuchnotice

edor killed,northe

o f e r ed o r s al e .

theuseo nets, pit a llsorother

pture.

t an y o t h e pr o vi s io n s o t h is

ethere inore clude

malorbirdspeci iedin

rsuspendanysuchnotices.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



rov incesmaybypublicnotice or-

intheirrespectiveprovinces

therdestructivemodeso capture

ndanysuch notice.

t iono anysuchnoticethis

csha lltakee f ectasi the

oticehad beenincorporated

ontravening

thisOrdinancebyhunting

animalorbirdincludedin

a licenceorw ithaninsu f i-

e ora llthe eesw hichw ould

em orthetakingouto a

orthehunting, capturingork il l ingo

it iontoany ineorimprison-

ed orsuchcontravention.

ention

ontraventiono anyo the

ancemaybetriedby theCourt

e2ndC lassorbyanyhigher

s

ersonconv ictedo anyo f ence

be liabletobe or e ited.

pies, etc. etc.

,horns,tusks, eathers,

so allanimalsorbirds

ventiono thisOrdinance

cationandmaybese i edbyany

icerortheLicensingO f icersub-

pea lto theMudiraga instthecon-


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



rdswhich

a lcB ticeps .

l Bucora ) .

Serpentarius .

rdsa limitednumbero

rk il ledby theho ldero an

erauthori edo anyone

C obusMaria . i

. . .. 2

. . .. 2

agus . . . 4

a s sd . .. . 4

us . . . . 4

. . . . . 4

Buba lis ack soni , . 4

sTora ...4

usLeucotis . . . 6

e l la R u i c ol l is . . . 6

enumbero hippopotamus

killed Southo Fashoda.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



rdsa limitednumbero

rk il ledby theho ldero anA

berauthorisedo anyspecies-

e llesnotbe ore

ule eachspecies , 12

po morethanthree

ot ourmoreo eacho these

ditionalmonth.

ecto w hichthesa leor

hornsor leshorothertrophiesis

beest.

redCob.

aterBuck.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



Animals—

rs

oticeastoPassportsand

sandForeignerspublishedin

the istAugust, 1903, No. 50,

theGovernorGeneralhas

o llows: —

ndF ore ignersnotbe ingtraders, trave l-

pleasureorsportSoutho

n,whohaveasubsistinggame

pass romtheSecretary

hedistricts mentionedbelow.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



F ore igntrave lle ris, until urther

hedistricts mentioned

eGovernorGeneral's

htheo f iceo theSecretary

nytravellerwhoobtains

ustregulatehismovements

ions,whichwillbe given

ns o thosedistricts,such

rantedto personstravelling

dere ceptiona lcircumstances

rredto

o theSobatandF iberEast

andNortho Shambe.

heWestBank o theWhite

wn romF ashodato

a lP rovince .


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



34, 60

229

04,

1S7

6

ry

Sur-

144,

5, 320, 321

Ca iro

7-9

3

7, 154, 158,

, 35, 40

58

3

4,221


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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39

27,231,

29

304, 320,

233

172-8,

danger,

23

m8 7 , 18 9 ,

3

n-

9,

Dick-

strip, vi

n-

n

8

81

y,84

os,88-

thechase,

,94

-8,100

4

o O m -

, P u b l i c D o m a i n i n t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s

/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

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, 248

r.

his-

o M r .

, 67

toum, i,

i i

9,go,

8

dae le-

ences, 143,

e,148-

80

r o m, 1 1

, 16

.,190

239

34

abits,

ters,

236-8,

riences

15-17

73

bearer,

16, 231-3,

22

232,242,

,31,44,

14,257

19,

191


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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61

320, 322

53,

44,

81, 94,

m,123,

03, 141,

69,

nting, 192,

320, 322

57,87,

04-10,

305, 307,

152, 154

the

106, 116,


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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34-7

1 2 5

a la , 13 , 1 6

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, 11, 36

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7,322

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145

47

322

4,145

96


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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o

7, 219,

,106

8,40

-7

178

ling

munica-

2, 87,224

30

so , 4

4

238,239

, 59,

132

,183,

4

322

or, 288,

,78

13


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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hite,

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304, 320,

pe

n

22

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,212,

o , 2 8 0

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, 308-23

mers,

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2-5 P u b l i c D o m a i n i n t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s

/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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4,219,

nd-

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urvey , 67,

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24

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6,201

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105,

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159, 186,

6,

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03

5160

2

6

,67,

22


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

s



N,F.R.G.S.WithanIntro-

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graphs.12s.dd.net.

o va luable in ormationastohow

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theEvery -dayBirdsandBeasts

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/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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EOF

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/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


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urd. Be ingtheR ecord

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MissHerbert'slight,bree ystyleindealing withthe

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/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

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HIKARI

s.Demy8vo.

g e 6d . e t r a. < 2 > < $ >

ewarmandlengthypraisewegaveto thecompanion

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ecommend'TwoDianasin Alaska'tomanyreaders.. .

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MissHerberthasahappyknacko amusingthereader

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M issHerberthasaprettywit, w ord-pictureso magic

pictures ue, e cit ing, andthee f ectonthetiredbra in

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opularity.

Fullo interest,andweareconstantlyamusedbyher

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san amusingandinterestingnarrativeallthrough.

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svolumemayberecommendedassuretoentertain.It is

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mpletenesso awell-constructednovel.Racydescriptions

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heBodleyHkad,VigoStreet,London,W.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

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ers,documents,corre-

so autobiography,andalso

elatingtopersonsand

,politicalandsocial,should

ohnLane,TheBodley

,W.,whowillat all

s adviceandassistance,

tionorpublication.


/ h t t p : / / w w w . h


_ u s e # p d - u

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C

Monographsdealingwith

e,andincludingRepre-

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osaNewmarch.

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ran Liebich.

Biographieso theLeading

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Lake Victoria to Khartoum, with rifle & camera

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Transcript of Lake Victoria to Khartoum, with rifle & camera