Ladybugs spending the Winter on the brake hub and inside the wheel rim.

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Ladybugs spending the Winter on the brake hub and inside the wheel rim

Transcript of Ladybugs spending the Winter on the brake hub and inside the wheel rim.

Page 1: Ladybugs spending the Winter on the brake hub and inside the wheel rim.

Ladybugs spending the Winter on the brake hub and inside the wheel rim

Page 2: Ladybugs spending the Winter on the brake hub and inside the wheel rim.

Brake drum turned and finish painted

Page 3: Ladybugs spending the Winter on the brake hub and inside the wheel rim.

Speedo drive removal – a test of patience and requires heat and lots of lubricant – be gentle, it’s aluminum!

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Use a smallish pipe wrench for grip – very little wiggle room

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Speedo drive has been removed. Try to not damage the threads, remember it’s aluminum and strips easily

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Speedo drive end – see how fine the threads are

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Box frame – sticky foam tape used by the factory to lessen squeaks – use a sharp knife to remove before painting.

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undercarriage

Page 9: Ladybugs spending the Winter on the brake hub and inside the wheel rim.

Motor section - traps a lot of dirt and oil – hot air inlet to the cabin at the top with the rubber bellows attached.

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View from the rear showing the suspension

Page 11: Ladybugs spending the Winter on the brake hub and inside the wheel rim.

Engine bay

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Van box awaits refinishing and painting – the square hole is where the engine access hatch is located

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The underside – not bad after 28 years!

Page 14: Ladybugs spending the Winter on the brake hub and inside the wheel rim.

Right side of the Van box

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Mod-U-Blast that I use to clean parts such as the brake drums sitting on the pail in front.

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Cleaned, ready for painting.

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Starter solenoid showing wiring attachments and the 16amp inline fuse holder for the Dynastarter

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Voltage regulator – above it is the 8amp inline fuse holder for the Van box internal light and it’s attaching point.

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Painted brake drums – I use Tremclad aluminum paint and paint them with a brush – everything except the turned surfaces where the brake pads act on the drum.

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After removing the warm air conveyor I’ve found another mouse nest.

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Warm air conveyor assy. There’s a hinge flap controlled from the cabin (it’s the red knob under the steering column)

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Grinder required to remove bottom rusted bolt

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Coil and mounting bracket removed. Rusted casing but probably OK but must be checked out.

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I’ve media blasted the muffler and will paint it with Tremclad high heat enamel flat paint

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Stacked finished parts

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Factory jack (cric in Italian) in it’s position at the rear – the hollow at the top goes over the rearmost bolts holding the bed to the frame. Make sure the wheels are blocked!

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Frame plug removed – a mouse nest inside

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I removed this -

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With these tools

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Nothing alive but no air going to the air filter box!

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The gas tank was flushed and cleaned at the rad shop and is almost ready for painting after rinsing with clean gas.

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Rear window and packing removed

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When removing any of the window glass, you start on the inside. I use a plastic stick (smooth) to free the packing from the opening, inside and out. Spray silicone behind the packing both sides assists removal. Go to the inside corner of the window packing, with your thumb lift it upwards to free the corner and with the palm of your hand press outwards on the glass in that corner. It takes some force but be careful. Once the glass and packing in that corner has started to move outwards keep pushing the inner packing towards the glass and move to the next corner. It will push outwards. Once free make sure you keep one hand on the outer glass to steady it as you keep pushing outwards. Try the smallest window (rear) before trying the windshield so you understand the process. Patience is a virtue - Ken

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Three screws hold the seatback