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Lacy Scalloped T-Bonnet

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Lacy Scalloped T-Bonnet

A T-bonnet is not only beautiful, but very easy to construct. This simple scalloped version with shaped lace scallops yields the perfect palette for hand or machine embroidery. Entredeux and gathered lace edging border the bonnet. Rosettes of lace and tiny silk satin ribbons add a decorative touch, and lots of lovely ribbon holds the bonnet in place. Pass this beautiful bonnet down from one generation to the next. It will only grow more precious with age.

Template• Front Band Scallops

CuttingFrom the white batiste, cut the following:

Sizes Premie, 3M, 6M cut:

• one 3” x 11-1/2” fabric rectangle for front band

• one 3” x 5-3/4” fabric rectangle for back band

Sizes 12M, 18M, 24M cut:

• one 3-1/2” x 13-1/2” fabric rectangle for front band

• one 3-1/2” x 6-3/4” fabric rectangle for back band

Fabric & Laces 1/8 yard of white batiste2 yards white entredeux1/2 yard 5/8-inch wide lace insertion for

lace scallops4 yards 5/8-inch wide lace edging for

bordering bonnet

Notions1 yard 5/8-inch wide silk satin ribbon for

neck ties1-1/3 yards 1/4-inch wide silk satin ribbon

for back ties1/2 yard 1/8-inch wide silk satin ribbon for

rosettes Size 70 universal machine needleSize 100 or 120 universal machine needle

for pin stitching60wt white cotton sewing threadTear-away stabilizer Water-soluble fabric markerGlass head pinsLace joining foot or clear foot (Optional)Lace shaping boardTiger Tape™Basic sewing supplies

Supplies

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DIRECTIONSPlease read through all directions before beginning.

Shaping Lace Scallop

1. Trace the scallop shape and miter lines onto the front band rectangle with a water-soluble fabric marker (fig. 1). Place the fabric on a lace shaping board or padded ironing surface. Shape the lace above the curve as shown in Figure 1. Lace scallops contain two lace shaping techniques; curves and fold back miters.

2. With the outer edge of the lace insertion along the template line, pin the lace to the template line by pushing glass head pins through the lace and fabric at an angle, into the padded surface. (Do not use plastic head pins because they will melt.) Pin only along the outer edge; the inner edge will be loose and wavy.

3. To miter, let the lace extend past the point (miter line) in a straight line. Pin the lace to the miter line at points A and B (see fig. 1).

4. Fold the extended end of the lace back on top of itself. Leave the pin at B just as it is; remove the pin at A and replace it through both layers of lace (fig. 2).

5. Continue to guide the lace along the next scallop. Pin along the lower lace edge as before (fig. 3). NOTE: If part of the folded miter peeks out, just push it underneath the lace; it can be trimmed away later.

6. To shape the inner edge, slip the point of a pin under the uppermost (header) thread of the lace at the point of the miter, or at the center of a section between the miters. Pull the header thread just until the lace is flat against the fabric (fig. 4).

7. Lightly starch and press after all three scallops are pinned and shaped. A lightweight fabric press cloth may be used. The iron can be placed directly over the glass head pins; press until dry. Remove the pins and pin flat through the lace and fabric only, removing it from the lace shaping board (fig. 5).

Miter line

AA

A

BB

B

FIGURE 1

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

FIGURE 4

FIGURE 5

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8. Stitch the lace to the fabric along the inner lace edge only using one of the following methods:

Note: Do not stitch along the outer lace edge.

• small zigzag (L=0.5 - 1.0; W=1.5 - 2.0) with 70 universal needle (fig. 6).

• place lightweight tear-away stabi-lizer behind the design, use a large needle or wing needle and pinstitch (L-2.0 - 2.5; W=1.5- 2.0). The straight side of the stitch should fall on the fabric while the “fingers” of the stitch will catch the lace (fig. 7).

7. Carefully trim the fabric from behind the lace, close to the stitching (fig. 8). Stitch along the lace miters with a small zigzag. Optional: Trim the excess lace triangle at the miters (fig. 9).

Applying Entredeux

Note: Entredeux will be attached to the front band in four pieces; one piece across the front scalloped edge, one piece across the long straight edge and a piece across each short side.

1. Zigzag entredeux to the long straight edge of the front band using the technique Lace to Fabric.

2. Refer to the technique, Lace to Entredeux, and zigzag entredeux to the curved edge of the lace scallop. The untrimmed edge of the entredeux should be clipped every 1/4 inch through the waste fabric edge only. Apply entredeux to one scallop stitching all the way to the point (miter). Stop with the needle in the fabric, raise the machine foot and using tiny scissors, clip through the lower bar of the entredeux directly below the miter (fig. 10). This will allow the entredeux to “bend” at the miter. Pivot and continue stitching the entredeux to the lace scallop treating the miters in the same manner.

3. Refer to the technique, Entredeux to Fabric, and attach a piece of entredeux to each end of the front band.

4. For the back band, refer to the technique, Lace to Fabric, and attach entredeux to both long sides and one short side.

FIGURE 6 FIGURE 7

FIGURE 8

FIGURE 9

FIGURE 10

Zigzag

One side stitched

Pinstitch

Zigzag over miters and trim away folded lace

Clip through lower bar of entredeux

Clipped entredeux waste fabric

Lace

Mite

r

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Applying Gathered Lace Edging

1. Cut the 5/8-inch wide edging lace to the following measurements and label:

• Front band: One piece 84 inches for the smaller bonnet OR 90 inches for the larger bonnet and

• Back band: One piece 32 inches for the smaller bonnet OR 36 inches for the larger bonnet

• Rosettes: Two pieces 9 inches for smaller or larger bonnet (set these pieces aside)

2. Using the lace edging for the front band, gather the lace to fit around all four sides of the front band and attached using the technique Gathered Lace to Entredeux and the Tiger Tape Technique. Start the gathered lace on the long straight side of the front band about 5 inches from the corner. Note: Pull the gathering thread at each cut end of the lace. The Tiger Tape™ may need to be torn or cut to go around the corners and scallops. Add extra lace fullness at the corners and scallops.

3. When the starting point is reached, turn under the end of the lace and overlap with the beginning lace edge, zigzag (L=1.5, W=1.5) (fig. 11).

4. Gather the lace edging for the back band to fit the two long sides and one short side of the back band. One short side will not have any edging lace. Attach using the technique, Gathered Lace to Entredeux and the Tiger Tape Technique (fig. 12).

5. Finish the “no lace” side of the back band with a narrow zigzag (fig. 12).

6. Center the “no lace” edge of the back band to the wrong side of the front band. Allow the edge of the back band to extend 1/4 inch past the entredeux. Pin in place. Zigzag along each track of the entredeux to attach the back band to the front band (fig. 13).

FIGURE 11

FIGURE 12

FIGURE 13

Zigzag

Right side of bonnet

Finish this edge with a narrow zigzag

Begin and end here

Back band

Back band

Front band

Front band

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Finishing the Bonnet

1. Fold one end of the ribbon under 5/8 inch and 5/8 inch again and stitch to the right side of the front corners (fig. 14).

2. Cut the 1/4-inch ribbon into four 12-inch pieces. Fold one end of the ribbon to the inside 1/4 inch and stitch to the wrong side of each remaining corner of the bonnet (see fig. 14).

3. Using the two 9-inch pieces of lace edging cut earlier, create a lace rosette from each lace piece by placing the cut ends right sides together to form a circle and stitch using a tiny, tight zigzag. Pull the gathering thread in the heading of the lace at the cut ends. Gather tightly and tie the pulled threads together (fig. 15).

4. Pin a lace rosette over each 5/8-inch ribbon at the front corners of the bonnet (fig. 16).

5. Center a 9-inch piece of 1/8-inch ribbon in the center of the lace rosette. Zigzag in the center of the ribbon to attach the lace rosette and the ribbon to the bonnet.

6. Tie the 1/8-inch ribbons into bows to embellish the rosettes.

7. Tie the 1/4-inch ribbons into bows to draw the bonnet together in the back.

FIGURE 14

FIGURE 15

FIGURE 16

5/8” ribbon attached to right side of bonnet

1/4” ribbon attached to wrong side of bonnet

Wrong side of bonnet

Right side of bonnet

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Lace to Fabric

Place right sides together. Fabric extends 1/8” from lace. Zigzag off the edge and over the heading of the lace. Suggested machine settings: L = 0.5 to 1.0 (almost a satin stitch), W = 3.5.

lace heading fabric

Lace to Entredeux

Trim fabric edge from one side of the entredeux. Butt lace to entredeux and zigzag. Suggested machine settings: L = 1.5, W = 2.5.

lace heading

Gathered Lace to Entredeux

Trim fabric edge from one side of entredeux. Gather lace by pulling heading thread (uppermost thread). Butt together and zigzag. Suggested machine settings: L = 1.5, W = 2.5.

Tiger Tape™

Tiger Tape™ is one of those fabulously simple inventions that make difficult procedures worlds easier. This wonderful tape securely holds in place gathers in fabric or lace without leaving a damaging residue on your materials. It also keeps your gathers out of the needle’s way when stitching on the machine. Use it to sew lace to lace, lace to entredeux, lace to fabric, or in any circumstances which require the secure holding of lightweight gathers. Oh, the frustration we endured before this modern marvel came along!

Refer to the specific project directions for supplies and cutting.

1. Cut the lace to the length given in your specific directions.

2. Pull the heading thread from each end and gather to fit the area to which it will be applied (Fig. 1). This can be a length of entredeux, a seam line, a neckline, etc.

3. Pin the gathered lace to a lace shaping board.

4. Cut a piece of Tiger Tape™ the length of the gathered lace.

5. Place the tape about 1/8” below the lace heading and finger press to secure the tape to the gathers (Fig. 2). If lace is to be attached to a curve, short pieces of Tiger Tape™ may be used to secure the gathers.

6. Remove the lace from the lace shaping board.

7. Apply the gathered lace to the project with a narrow zigzag referring to the specific project directions. See Figures 3 and 4 for application examples. Figure 3 shows gathered lace to entredeux. Figure 4 shows gathered lace applied to the right side of a finished fabric edge.

FIGURE 1

pull thread to gather

FIGURE 2

Tiger Tape™

FIGURE 3

gathered lace to entredeux

zigzag

FIGURE 4

fabriczigzag or pinstitch

Tiger Tape™

TECHNIQUES

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0 1"

1"

Please use this scale to verify that you are printing at 100%

Scallops Template

Center of front band

Miter

Fron

t Ban

d S

callop

s Tem

plate

Prem

ie, 3M, 6M

12M, 18M

, 24M

Shape lace insertion here