L-5 (Marker Making)

MARKER MAKING/LAY PLAN MAKING

What is a Marker?The Marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from a single spread.

What is Marker Making/Lay Plan?Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes.

In other words,The cutting templates representing all of the individual components of a garment have to be laid out together in such a way that they fit within the confines of the fabric width as closely and efficiently as possible, in order to minimize waste. This is Lay Plan.

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Guide Lines for the Lay Plan

•The templates have to be laid in a way that takes account of the directional properties of the fabric, such as thread directions, pattern directions, grain of nap or pile.

•It may also be necessary to allow for matching of stripes, checks, or designs.

So major factors to be considered are:

1.Orientation and Direction

2.Pattern Matching

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1.Orientation and DirectionThe orientation of the pattern templates will depend on the

construction of the textile material and its pattern design features.

There are three basic types of orientation:

i.Nonwovensii.Cretonneiii.Corduroy

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i.NonwovensFabrics for which neither the orientation nor the direction is

important. e.g. random-laid nonwoven fabrics.

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ii. CretonneFabrics for which the orientation is important but the templates

may be laid in either direction. e.g. linings and laminated fabrics.

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1. Orientation and Direction

iii. CorduroyFabrics for which orientation and direction are both important.

e.g. pile fabrics, fabrics with a directional pattern or pile, knitted fabrics.

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2. Pattern Matching•The quality of a product is affected significantly by the accuracy of pattern matching.•A flawless execution, especially with checks and stripes, demands high consumption of fabric and takes a great deal of time.•The coloring, the repeat size, and the prominence of the pattern, as well as the degree of matching between individual garment pieces are crucial in determining the cost and difficulty in making the lay plan, in spreading the cloth, and in cutting.•During spreading it is necessary to match the pattern exactly at each end of the lay and in every ply.•Cutting may have to be carried out in two stages, with a preliminary rough cut being followed by more precise second cutting together with pattern matching.•In making the lay plan the pattern markers cannot be laid in such a way as to minimize cutting waste; they have to be disposed according to the requirement of the fabric pattern.

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2. Pattern MatchingFeatures of Accurate Pattern Matching:

SymmetryThe pattern must be symmetrical about the central axis.Examples: left and right front panels, collars backs

Vertical ContinuityThe pattern must not be interrupted or displaced at horizontal seams. Example: pockets

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2. Pattern MatchingFeatures of Accurate Pattern Matching:

Horizontal ContinuityThe pattern must not be interrupted or displaced at vertical seams or across adjacent parts. Example: arm and front panel

Overall ContinuityThe form and the repeat of the pattern must be maintained across all seams, facings, trimmings, patches, etc. Examples: patch pockets, flaps, darts, facings.

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Dimensions of Marker

There are two dimensions of marker. • Length• Width

Markers are used to measure yardage requirement.

Marker EfficiencyMarker efficiency is basically the area covered by the pattern pieces to the total area of the fabric.

Marker efficiency = Area covered by pattern pieces x 100 Total area of spread

• Efficiency of marker goes up to 95 % in home textiles.• Efficiency of marker goes up to 80-85 % in garments.

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Types of Marker/Lay Plan

The types of marker or lay plan being used in the industry are of the following type:

• Half Garment Lay

• Whole Garment Lay

• Single Size Lay

• Multi-Size Lay

– Sectional Lay

– Interlocking Lay

– Mixed Multi-Size Lay

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• Half Garment Lay

This includes only half of the garment pieces (e.g. the right side of the garment). They are used for folded or tubular fabrics and for fabrics which are spread face to face.

Half Garment Lay

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• Whole Garment Lay

All of the garment pieces, left and right sides, are included in the lay.

This type of lay is used for open width fabrics.

Full Garment Lay

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• Single Size Lay

The lay includes all of the pieces for a single size.

Restricting the lay to a single size makes order planning and laying up the fabric easier, but the disadvantage is a somewhat higher material consumption, compared to multi-size lays.

Single Size Lay

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Types of Marker/Lay Plan• Multi-Size Lay

– Sectional Lay

The lay is made in at least two distinct rectangular sections. Each section contains all of the parts of a single size. Adjacent sections may be the same or a different size.

Sectional Multi-size Lay for Two Sizes

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– Interlocking Lay

Two or more sections, one after the other, usually different sizes, but the sections are not confined to strict rectangular areas; the pieces for the different sections may merge at the borders.

Interlocking Multi-size Lay for Two Sizes

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– Mixed Multi-Size Lay

In this case there are no distinct sections; the pieces for the two or more different garment sizes are intermingled. This is the arrangement which normally gives the best material utilization.

Mixed Multi-size Lay for Three Sizes

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L-5 (Marker Making)

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