CONTENTSAUGUST 2014 | KOREA VOL.10 NO.8

14 PEOPLE Photographer Bae Bien-u Jazz Festival Director In Jae-jin

18 TRAVEL Incheon

22 SPORTS Badminton’s Rising Star

24 ENTERTAINMENT Taekwondo with K-Pop: K-Tigers

26 SPECIAL ISSUE Pope Francis Comes to Korea

04 COVER STORY Beyond the Afterlife, Into the Present

The royal tombs of the Joseon Dynasty create a space for generations past and present

30 CURRENT KOREA Namhansanseong’s UNESCO Status

32 SUMMIT DIPLOMACY Chinese President Visits Korea

36 POLICY REVIEW Tourism and Big Data

38 CREATIVE TECHNOLOGY Touchable Gets Flexible

40 GLOBAL KOREA Bags of Hope

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Publisher Won Yong-gi, Korean Culture and Information Service | Executive Producer Suh Jeong-sun | E-mail webmaster@korea.net | Magazine Production Seoul Selection | Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler | Staff Writer Felix Im | Producer Shin Yesol | Production Supervisor Lee Jin-hyuk | Editorial Advisor Choi Byeong-guk | Copy Editors Gregory C. Eaves, Jaime Stief, Hwang Chi-young | Creative Director Jung Hyun-young | Head Designer Lee Bok-hyun | Photography Ryu Seunghoo, Robert Koehler, RAUM Studio | Printing Pyung Hwa Dang Printing Co., Ltd. | 발간등록번호 11-1110073-000016-06

42 GREAT KOREAN Kim Jwa-jin

44 MY KOREA Daehangno’s Performances

46 MULTICULTURAL KOREA Multi-Cultural Restaurant I’m Asia

48 TALES FROM KOREA The Snail-Shell Bride

50 FLAVOR Patbingsu

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COVER STORYCOVER STORY

Beyond the Afterlife, Into the Present The royal tombs of the Joseon Dynasty offer spaces for generations past and present

Written by Cho In-souk

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June 2014 marked the fifth anniversary of the 40 Joseon Dynasty royal tombs being listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. In honor of this event, from June 22 to 30, the Cultural Heritage Administration convened a variety of cultural programs at the tomb sites themselves and at

Gwanghwamun Square, under the theme of “Filial Piety and Rest: Joseon Royal Tombs.”The Joseon Dynasty, Korea’s last, ruled the Korean Peninsula for over five centuries, from 1392 to 1910,

in an unbroken succession of 27 kings. The kingdom was governed by the principles of Neo-Confucianism, with society almost completely re-organized along Confucian lines. It was a time of great cultural and social development. Energetic, scholarly inquisitive kings such as King Sejong the Great strove to develop their nation and improve the lives of their people as “philosopher kings.” The kingdom's social elite, the scholar-officials of the yangban class, administered the country based on a firm understanding of Confucian principles as demonstrated by the gwageo, or civil service exam. Internal divisions and foreign pressure eventually led to the collapse of the dynasty in the first decade of the 20th century, but the dynasty nevertheless provided Korea with a truly remarkable period of peace, prosperity and stability.

The traditional and modern coexist at Seonjeongneung, a Joseon Dynasty tomb in

downtown Seoul © Gangnam-gu Office

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At the time of the tombs’ registration with UNESCO, in commemoration of the dynasty’s legacy, the selection committee emphasized that each tomb displayed the Joseon Dynasty’s unique world view, religious beliefs and understanding of nature. They also represented a microcosm of the ideology, political history and artistic vision of the times. It was also stressed that the tombs were a living tradition, with royal memorial rites being held regularly.

The Joseon Dynasty royal tombs are not just burial places for deceased monarchs. They are spaces where the living and the dead come together and communicate. Making excellent use of the surrounding landscape, especially through ancient techniques of geomancy, the tombs incorporate concepts and themes from not only Neo-Confucianism, the ruling ideology of the Joseon Dynasty, but also from Buddhism, Taoism and other schools of thought, becoming an inspiring expression

of the Korean traditional view of both this world and the next.

Space for the Living and Dead

The Joseon royal tombs, built from before the Common Era through to the beginning of the 20th century, are more than simply relics or places to visit. They are historical spaces that include a variety of cultural aspects. The construction and landscaping of these royal tombs reflect a spiritual existence throughout the ages. Moreover, the Joseon royal memorial rites, which have been preserved to the present day, are, along with their related artifacts and records, a treasure trove that reveals the country’s traditional understanding and beliefs.

The royal tombs of the Joseon Dynasty can be divided into three types, according to the rank of the monarch buried within. The first are neung, which are the final resting places for kings and queens. The second are won,

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Tomb of Taejo Yi Seong-gye at Donggureung, a Joseon royal tomb complex in Guri, Gyeonggi-do

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where the crown princes are buried, along with their consorts. The third are myo, which hold other royal family members.

The Joseon royal tombs listed with UNESCO are the neung, or the tombs of the Joseon Dynasty’s monarchs. In addition to the UNESCO sites and excluding the two royal tombs located in the North Korean city of Gaeseong, the Seoul area—formerly known as Hanyang, the Joseon royal capital—boasts 40 fully preserved neung and 13 won. With the exception of King Danjong’s tomb in Yeongwol, Gangwon-do, and the tombs of King Sejong and King Hyojong in Yeoju, Gyeonggi-do, each of these tombs is located within 40 kilometers of the city. This was arranged so that kings could easily worship at the tombs of their royal ancestors even after ascending the throne.

Path Between WorldsFor ages, Korea maintained a tradition of ancestral worship. This tradition grew firmer during the Joseon Dynasty, which chose Neo-Confucianism as its national ideology. In this world view, a tomb signified a specific and particular place where the ancestors resided. The royal court turned the tombs of the kings, the highest rulers of the land, into holy spaces. By holding memorial rites there, the king and court served as models for the people and justified their rule. Accordingly, by simultaneously ritualizing the procedures for royal funerals, constructing royal tombs and the continuous performance of remembrance rites, kings could strengthen their royal authority and give shape to the ruling ideology of Neo-Confucianism.

Royal funerals were an expression of national mourning that included a 60-step process over three years following the passing of the king. Royal remembrance rites were carried out by everyone, from the royal family and aristocrats down to the common people. Carried out at the tombs, these rites were meant to make people aware that they did not exist alone and that they were living lives they had inherited from their ancestors. The royal remembrance rites had a similar aim, which was to renew the understanding that the king also did not exist alone. Rather, his dominion was an inheritance received from a long line of royal ancestors.

Construction and Position of the Royal TombsThe position of the royal tombs reveals the majestic status of the royal family and employs a naturally harmonious construction technique that respected the surrounding topography. The tombs maintain the natural contours of the surroundings as much as possible, with structures being built in a manner that does not impose upon the environment. The tombs make use of creative interpretations of the theory of pungsu, or feng shui.

In addition to their relative closeness to the Joseon capital, most tombs are located to the northeast or northwest of the city and include very deliberate placement. Each is usually located approximately 300

The royal tombs of the Joseon Dynasty might be the best known, but Korea has had royal tombs for as long as it has had kings.

The town of Gyeongju, the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla (57 BC–AD 935), is dotted with large burial mounds. These royal resting places, huge mounds of wood, clay, stone and earth,

have proven almost impenetrable without specialized equipment. Having confounded would-be grave robbers, they've become treasure troves, both literally and archaeologically. Also spectacular is the tomb of King Muryeong in Gongju, one of the capitals of the kingdom of Baekje (18 BC–660 AD). Discovered by accident in 1971, the tomb yielded 2,906 artifacts that have greatly aided our understanding of ancient Korea.

The kings of the Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392) were also buried in impressive burial tombs that greatly resemble the tombs of the later Joseon Dynasty. Most of the tombs are located in and around the North Korean town of Gaeseong, the capital of the Goryeo Dynasty, but three are located in South Korea: two on the island of Ganghwado and one in the city of Goyang in Gyeonggi-do.

Royal Tombs Through the Ages

Golden earrings from the Bubuchong Tomb in Gyeongju

Gilt-bronze incense burner of Baekje

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meters from neighboring tombs, with most facing in a southern direction and designed in a manner that takes into careful consideration the shape of the surrounding mountains.

While pungsu factors greatly influenced the location of the tombs, care was also taken to ensure that the sites posed little risk of damage due to wind, water, fire, wood or earth. For this reason, the tombs followed the Korean traditional technique of baesan imsu, which is to say, they were placed in locations with a mountain to the back and water to the front. Sites were selected that allowed the main mass of the mountain to be placed behind the tomb, which was located on a hillside, with “protective” mountains—known as Blue Dragon and White Tiger—situated to the sides. Especially good locations allowed the tomb to face another mountain range. In addition to the stipulations of baesan imsu, these decisions were also influenced by pungsu principles. Such principles are given new life through the spaces of modern Korea, which—despite rapid modernization and widespread urban development—has designed its metropolitan landscapes to accomodate the ancient tombs, not overcome them. The result is a unique map of spaces that fluidly navigate between ancient and modern, forming eternal pathways between this life and the next. The 21st century Seoulite can still live among his or her ancestors.

Spacial Layout of the Joseon Tombs

The entry space, or jinip gonggan, marks the beginning of the tomb area. It usually refers to the space leading to the stone bridge, or geumcheongyo, found in front of the entrance gate, or hongsalmun. The term geumcheon means “forbidden

stream,” and symbolizes that should you cross the bridge, you are entering a holy place where the spirits of departed kings reside.

In the entry space you’ll find a room where participants can prepare for the sacrificial rites. In tomb complexes where several royal tombs are present, you’ll find an outer entrance gate, separate from the individual entrance gate, which indicates that the entire space is a royal tomb. To protect the tomb area, thick forests of trees are planted in the entry space and a pond is dug as well. Beyond acting as a pungsu

Tomb of Taejo Yi Seong-gye © KTO

Ancestral ritual at Wolleung © KTO

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technique, these measures are also meant to offer relaxation space for participants involved in the royal rites. They also provide a source of materials to repair and maintain the tombs and act as a fire prevention mechanism.

Rite Space: Ancestors Meet Descendants The space for conducting sacrificial rites, or jehyang gonggan, refers to the area from the stone bridge to the rites pavilion, passing through the entrance gate and along the “path of the spirits,” or sillo. This space, centered around the rites pavilion, is where the living and the dead meet through the performance of the memorial rites. The entrance, or hongsalmun, which literally means “gate with red arrows,” is, as the name suggests, a red gate with stylized arrows along its top. It marks the beginning of the sacred space and is the point where the memorial ceremonies would begin. The rites pavilion is where the memorial rites are performed. Next to the entrance gate is a long, flat stone where the chief mourner would begin the memorial ceremony with a bow towards the tomb.

The pathway, which is located between the entrance gate and the rites pavilion, is typically a long walkway made of flat stones and was said to be used by the spirits of the departed kings. It is usually accompanied by a narrower path called the “ruler’s way,” or eodo, and was used by the chief mourner—the king. At the Hongneung and Yureung, which are the tombs of the emperors of the Daehan Empire, the pathway is flanked by the ruler’s way on both sides, forming a three-lane path.

Behind the rites pavilion and to the west is a facility used to burn the written prayers used in the memorial rite, or yegam. In earlier tombs, such as the Geonwolleung and the Heolleung, there’s also a similar facility called the sojeondae. To the rear of

Layout of Royal Tombsgokjang

bongbun (burial mound)

honyuseok

jangmyeongdeung

jeongjagak(T-shaped hall)

hongsalmun (red-spiked gate)

yangseok

hoseok

byeongpungseok

nanganseok

mangjuseok

muninseok

muinseok

bigak

chamdo

subokbangsuragan

maseok

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the tomb and to the northeast is the “mountain god rock,” or sansinseok, where rites to the gods who control the mountains were held. This rite expressed gratitude to the god of the mountain for granting space to a human, even a dead one.

Royal Resting Places

The tomb space, or neungchim gonggan, is the core space of the tomb. It stretches from behind the rites pavilion past the burial mound and surrounding walls, to the mountain peaks beyond. To the right, left and back of the burial mound is a stone wall called a gokjang. Pine trees are planted thick around the wall which surrounds the entire tomb area.

The burial mound, or bongbun, is shaped like a hemisphere covered in sod. Historical records show that the mounds were originally about 18 meters in diameter and about 4 meters high, but as time went on, the mounds got gradually smaller until they averaged about 11 meters in diameter.

The area surrounding the burial mound is divided into three sections. The first section is called the sanggye or chogye, and is centered on the burial mound. The lower part of the mound is wrapped in ornamental stones, which also served to keep the mound's earth in place. In the area around the mound sits a stone fence, and beyond this are two or four pairs of stone horses and stone sheep, which face outward, as if protecting the mound. Surrounding all of this is a stone and clay wall that both

blocks the wind, a basic pungsu technique, and serves as a fence. In front of the burial mound is a rectangular stone, or honyuseok, which was believed to have invited the spirit of the dead king to come out and play. To the left and right of the stone wall stand two stone pillars that were said to help the spirit of the dead king to find its tomb.

In the middle section, or junggye, you’ll find a stone lantern that symbolically lights the tomb. To its sides are two stone scholar-officials, or muninseok, which are positioned symmetrically. Either behind or next to them are a pair of stone horses, whose heads face the center.

The final section, or hagye, features two stone soldiers, or muinseok, and another pair of horses. The placement of the stone scholar-officials in a position above the stone soldiers reveals the ideology of the Joseon Dynasty, where—despite the fact that both the scholars and the soldiers formed the two

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1. Taejo Yi Seong-gye, founder of the Joseon Dynasty© Yonhap News2. The manual for the Office of the Royal Funeral documented the formal procedure and protocol for the royal funeral of King Jeongjo © Kyujanggak Institute for Korean Studies

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Donggureung Tomb Complex (Guri, Gyeonggi-do)

The largest of the Joseon tomb clusters, Donggureung is the final resting place of 7 kings and

10 queens, including the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, King Taejo (r. 1392–1398). The tomb of King Seonjo (r. 1567–1608) is particularly grand, while King Taejo’s tomb is unique in that it is covered in rushes from the northern Korean town of Hamheung, Taejo’s hometown.

Seonjeongneung (Samseong-dong, Seoul)

The burial place of King Seongjong (r. 1469–1494) and King Jungjong (r. 1506–1544),

Seonjeongneung is located in what is now the heart of one of Seoul’s busiest commercial districts. The visual contrast between the tombs and the surrounding urban landscape is striking. Despite the location, the site is surrounded by rich forests and is quite tranquil, making it an excellent urban park.

Taereung (Gongneung-dong, Seoul)

Also located in Seoul, this tomb belongs to one of Korean history’s most powerful queens,

Munjeong Wanghu (1501–1565), who served as the virtual ruler of Korea through much of the mid-16th century as regent to her son, the young King Myeongjong (r. 1545–1567), who is also buried at the site.

Gwangneung (Namyangju, Gyeonggi-do)

Located in one of Korea’s most beautiful forests, which is also home to the Gwangneung National Arboretum,

Gwangneung is the tomb of King Sejo (r. 1455–1468), one of the dynasty’s most energetic kings. This is a particularly beautiful spot to visit in autumn, when it can be combined with a visit to the arboretum.

Hongneung and Yureung (Namyangju, Gyeonggi-do)

These two tombs are unique in that they are the burial places of emperors: Emperor Gojong (r. 1863–1907) and Emperor Sunjong (r. 1907–1910) of the Daehan Empire (1897–1910). As befitting an emperor’s resting place, the tombs are modeled on the Xiaoling Tomb, the burial place of Emperor Hongwu, the founder of China’s Ming Dynasty. For instance, unlike Korea’s other

royal tombs, where the stone guardians and animals are located directly in front of the burial mound, the stone statues here are located all along the path to the rites pavilion. The pavilions, meanwhile, have been turned into grand, palatial structures. The masonry also exhibits a distinctively foreign influence, as these tombs were built when Korea suffered under Japanese pressure.

Major Tomb Sites

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78 10 14 15

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Seoul

Paju

Gimpo Goyang

Yangju

NamyangjuUijeongbu

Guri

Suwon

Gwacheon

OsanHwaseong

Yeoju

Yeongwol

1 Samneung (Paju)

2 Jangneung (Paju)

3 Jangneung (Gimpo)

4 Seo-oreung

5 Olleung

6 Seosamneung

7 Jeongneung

8 Taegangneung

9 Uireung

10 Donggureung

11 Seonjeongneung

12 Heonilleung

13 Gwangneung

14 Sareung

15 Hongyureung

16 Yunggeolleung

17 Yeongnyeongneung

18 Jangneung (Yeongwol)

Locations of the Joseon Royal Tombs

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wings of the yangban social elite—the scholars were respected more than the soldiers. From King Yeongjo’s tomb, however, the distinction between the junggye and hagye sections disappeared, indicating changes in the way in which society viewed military officials.

Tomb Stoneworks

Joseon royal tombs showcase a variety of stonework for use in memorial rites. In particular, the stonework concentrated around the burial mound—the granite figures and animals as well as the masonry around the raised earth—is intended to protect the burial space and make it a permanent home in the afterlife. These works stress the august nature of the Joseon royal tombs and are recognized as works of art in their own right, harmonizing with the surrounding scenery. During the 518 years of the Joseon Dynasty, artists produced about 1,300 stone works for the royal tombs, most of which have been well-preserved.

Joseon royal tombs reflect not just one philosophical idea. Rather, they reflect a complex view of the afterlife that incorporates a variety of ideologies. The stonework is a reflection of these ideas, which harmonize Confucian and Buddhist concepts. One example of this tribute is the aforementioned positioning of the stone officials and stone soldiers, but other status divisions are also visible. Most of the statues, both human and animal, are male, a statement reflecting the social values of the age.

While Neo-Confucianism was the ruling ideology of the Joseon Dynasty, in everyday life, Buddhist values were universal, and the stonework reliefs were also designed to reflect these virtues. This is the case with the stone lantern and the Buddhist motifs seen in

the reliefs, such as the lotus leaf. The use of this imagery could be seen as a symbol of the purity of the tomb, but it could also be seen as a prayer for the Buddhist afterlife.

The alternating positions of the stone sheep and stone horses may be interpreted as a reflection of the yin-yang theory, while motifs such as the taegeuk—the symbol on Korea’s national flag representing ultimate reality—the zodiac signs on the stones that surround the burial mound, and the alternating cloud patterns are Taoist elements.

The stone figures, which don't adhere to one ideology or philosophy and reference a variety of spaces both of this world and the next, not only express the aesthetic sense of the Joseon Dynasty but are considered highly valuable works of art in and of themselves.

More than Just Tombs

Korea’s Joseon Dynasty-related UNESCO World Heritage Sites—Changdeokgung Palace and its Huwon Garden, the Jongmyo Shrine and the Joseon Royal Tombs—are closely connected to one another. The palace was where the king and queen lived while they ruled. The shrine was a place to commune with the spirits of departed kings. The tomb was a place to meet the souls of departed kings through memorial rites. It's worth noting that there are points of conceptional commonality among all three sites. First, they all signify the relationship between humans and nature; second, they demonstrate the relationship between architecture and the external space; and, third, they exemplify the harmony between yin and yang.

Stone civilian and military officials in front of a tomb at Donggureung tomb complex

“[Joseon royal tombs] are a space where future generations of politicians can learn what they should learn, and find positive role models and examples of political mistakes to be avoided.”

One of Korea’s top landscape architects, Sangji Youngseo College professor Lee Chang-hwan is also a preeminent expert on the royal tombs. Lee was key to the tombs being listed on UNESCO's list of World Heritage, insisting that all 40 tombs be listed, including Seoul's downtown Seolleung, which was altered due to urban development. He spent over a decade surveying the tombs and drawing up diagrams for every one, save for the two in North Korea. In turn, his diagrams were used as reference material in the UNESCO application.

Harmony with NatureWhile Korea's neighbors have royal tombs of their own, Korea's are distinct in how they harmonize with their surroundings. “Chinese and Vietnamese tombs share a similar layout. Chinese tombs are underground palaces: the kings are buried deep underground with lots of facilities,” Lee explains. “In Korean royal tombs, the kings aren't buried that deep, but they follow the natural topography.” In fact, Joseon royal tombs reveal different layouts according to surrounding topography: some feature a single burial mound; others place mounds together; some utilize different ridges of one mountain. Placement adheres to geographic specifics and feng shui, the theory of geomancy.

Granted, China also makes use of feng shui, but Korea has adapted it to local conditions. Lee says, “We independently created patterns, like how King Sejong the Great invented Hangeul. We created different styles of stonework, too. There's stonework in Korea that you can't find in China and Vietnam.”

Spaces of History, Ecology, DemocracyRoyal tombs were serious business during the Joseon Dynasty. Lee explains that to build one would require 20,000 men laboring for five months. Conditions were difficult, especially in the winter; in some instances, up to 100 men would die during construction. King Sejong the Great, Joseon's most reverred monarch, considered tomb construction a burdensome extravagance, and accordingly ordered that his own be shared with that of his queen, Soheon Wanghu.

You can infer a lot about Joseon society by visiting the tombs, says Lee. For instance, the general prosperity of a reign becomes apparent when you look at the bellies of the stone officials placed in front of the burial space—the fatter, the better. We can also see through the tombs' painstaking use of topography that Koreans strive to live in harmony with their surroundings.

More importantly, by examining the changes in the tombs over time, we can see the democratization of Joseon society during the five centuries when the dynasty prevailed. “The distinction between the civilian officials and the military officials changes over time,” says Lee. “The civilian officials were originally higher than military officials. But later on, civilian and military officials share the same space. Hierarchical society crumbled and became more equal.” This, says Lee, makes tombs “a space where you can see the democratization of society.”

Royal tomb expert Lee Chang-hwan says we can learn a lot from the burial spaces of the Joseon kings

Interview by Robert Koehler

Where Ecology and Democracy Meet

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If you’ve been in Korea for any length of time, you’ve probably seen one of Bae Bien-u’s famous tree photographs.

Shot largely in the pine forests of Gyeongju, the ancient capital of Silla, they depict the undulating figures of Korean red pines, often half-silhouetted and shrouded in mist. Bae’s images, with their echoes of East Asian ink paintings, have won him fame in Korea and many fans overseas. In July, the country’s most renowned dendrophile agreed to speak to KOREA magazine about his work.

A Nature Photographer from the Start

Bae Bien-u is back in his Paju studio, having recently returned from the iconic Château de Chambord in France’s Loire Valley. He has been commissioned to shoot the château and its environs, following an earlier project capturing the gardens of the Alhambra in Granada. The tranquility exuded by his landscape works might lead an interviewer to expect Bae to be a man of few words, but in fact, the opposite is true: the photographer turns out to be jovial and talkative.

Bae was born in 1950, the year the Korean War broke out, in the southwestern coastal city of Yeosu. At that time, the mountains around his hometown and throughout the country were devoid of trees and wildlife of any kind. Bae describes the successful reforestation efforts of the ensuing decades as “miraculous.” “The younger generation doesn’t realize it, though,” he says. “They think it’s always been like that.”

After spending time at his local photo developing shop as a high school student, Bae took up landscape photography in earnest in his first year of university, where he majored in design. As a photographer, he decided on his subject matter early on: “Koreans are peninsula dwellers,” he says. “One aspect of their character, and of Korean artists, is that they follow whatever the latest trend is. But I chose nature from the start—landscapes—and that’s what I still photograph. In fact, I should call it ‘windscape.’ That’s what the Korean word

PEOPLE

Sacred Trunks, Sublime BranchesMeeting celebrated Korean ‘windscape’ photographer Bae Bien-u

Written by Ben Jackson Photographed by Lee Kwa-yong

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punggyeong [usually equated with the English term landscape] actually means.”

Windscapes, Pines and Korean-ness

“I wanted to find something that symbolized the piece of land that is Korea,” Bae says. “In the United States, Ansel Adams looked for a symbol of American-ness and came up with nature and landscapes like those of California and Yosemite. What about Korea? The answer was the pine tree.” He adds, “If you ask Koreans what their favorite tree is, sixty percent will choose the pine.”

Korea’s Silla Kingdom (57 BC–AD 935) lasted for almost 1,000 years and left dozens of royal tombs in and around its capital, Gyeongju. The pine forests in which Bae has produced most of his best-known works are located around these tombs. “Pine trees were supposed to convey the souls of kings to heaven,” he explains. “In Confucianism, it’s believed that people are heaven. Or, people go to heaven. It’s pine trees that take them there. The pine is a sublime tree.”

“That’s not to say I’m a personal fan of the pine tree,” Bae adds. “I photograph it because of its symbolic meaning, but the oak—now that’s a tree. Pine needles are toxic; they keep

away insects and other trees from the ground where they fall. It’s kind of severe and a bit selfish. That’s why people have long regarded it as an aloof, dignified tree. But the oak drops acorns, which feed insects and animals, keeping them alive through the winter. The oak is really the tree of all trees.”

Personal Style

Bae has previously written on the importance of learning dark room developing and printing skills in order to become a good photographer, even in the digital age. Today, though, he emphasizes the importance of seeing. “There’s no more technique,” he says. “What’s more important is how we observe things and think about them. When it comes to great art photographers, none of them studied photography at university. Photography is a medium and the camera is just a tool. Like a pen, it just depends how you use it—to draw pictures, write novels, or compose poetry …” Above all, Bae stresses the need for both painters and artists to find and develop a personal style of light use: “When I photograph trees, back lighting is crucial. All icons, whether they depict Jesus or Buddha, are lit from behind. That’s the lighting I wait for behind trees, in order to make them sacred.”

SNM2A-003H © Bae Bien-u

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PEOPLE

Jazz ManJarasum Jazz Festival director In Jae-jin turns rural Korea into a global music mecca

Written by Jacco ZwetslootPhotographed by Ryu Seunghoo

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It’s not hard to see that In Jae-jin is passionate about jazz. You could say he’s married to it: his wife is an accomplished jazz singer. What

really sets him apart, however—he once played the saxophone, but professes to not being blessed with talent—is his brainchild, the Jarasum Jazz Festival.

Selected this year as Korea’s best festival by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, the gathering aspires to become the biggest annual musical event in Asia. The event typically draws over 250,000 visitors during its three-day run, which happens in early October (Oct. 3–5) in a large park in the town of Gapyeong, about an hour east of Seoul.

In an interview with KOREA, festival founder and director In Jae-jin explained how it all got started. It’s been more than a decade since he first met with a local government official from Gapyeong, who suggested holding a musical event on a small island in the Bukhangang River. The festival was so successful that it became an annual event—the island has even lent its name to the entire affair. In also became so enamoured with Gapyeong that he ended up moving there. The town in turn embraced In and his family, but also the festival, which has grown in scope to include four venues downtown. Thanks to the success of Jarasum, In is now a full-time lecturer in performance media at a university in Seoul.

In Jae-jin dreams of opening an international music school in Gapyeong, drawing students and teaching staff from around the world. He wants to truly internationalize the Korean music scene, in the same way that the festival draws both artists and audiences from around the world. Each year the festival focuses on a different country. Last year’s focus country was Sweden, and this year four artists will be coming from Norway to head the line-up of over 30 domestic and overseas acts. In suggested that next year’s spotlight country might be the United Kingdom, or perhaps Italy.

A Team Effort

A couple of this year’s major acts include Arturo Sandoval, a Cuban trumpeter and pianist who has played with and learned from the likes of Dizzie

Gillespie, and the US-based jazz fusion quartet Yellowjackets. In addition to the events on the main stage, the director has invited up-and-coming local bands to play in various locations offstage. These performers’ official designation is that of “off bands,” but don’t let the casual title fool you. Competition is stiff. Out of 500 or so acts that apply, only around 20 are chosen, said In.

A festival with a permanent staff of only a dozen or less could not run without volunteers. Each year, Jarasum has a loyal crew of about 700–800 young people (the cut-off age is 35, which excludes this author) who help festival-goers, set up, tear down and clean up. In return they get free food, accommodation, t-shirts, shoes, bags and other gear supplied by festival sponsors. Many of these willing workers return year after year, and In proudly spoke of the two weddings he has officiated as a direct result. It’s not just volunteers who feel something in the air at Jarasum, either. Later this year, a couple who met at the festival as audience members is tying the knot. It’s no wonder, then, that In signs both the festival brochure and his autobiography (a bestseller, published in Korean in May under the title “Youth is a Sizzling Festival”), “Love in Jazz.” How appropriate.

See the festival website at www.jarasumjazz.com for the finalized program and other details.

TheJarasum International Jazz Festival is Korea’s preeminent celebration of jazz music.

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TRAVEL

Gateway to ModernityLong the world's gateway to Korea, the port city of Incheon revels in its early modern past

Written by Robert Koehler

Since the late 19th century, Incheon has served as the world’s gateway to Korea and Korea’s gateway to the world. Just a short trip from Seoul, this port

city of over a million people was the entry point of many aspects of modern civilization, and its streets are lined with exotic homes, old banks and offices, and historic churches—testaments to the city’s proud history as a contact point between two worlds. As home to Incheon International Airport, Korea’s major international air hub, the city continues to play its role as gateway to this day.

From September 14 to October 4, Incheon will also play host to the 2014 Asian Games, the continent’s largest celebration of sport. Even if you’re not a sports fan, the event serves as an excellent opportunity to explore one of Korea’s most fascinating, and perhaps most under-appreciated, cities.

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Old brick warehouses have been transformed into Incheon Art Platform, a downtown art and culture space. © Joyster Lee Sang-yun

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Going to Chinatown

Incheon’s best known tourist attraction is its Chinatown, Korea’s oldest and largest. Located just across from Incheon Station and easily recognized by the tell-tale pailou gate, Incheon’s Chinatown was founded in 1884 when traders from China’s Shandong Province settled in the port to deal in sundries, salt, cereals and alluvial gold. It’s a wonderfully atmospheric place of exotic, Chinese-style row houses, historic Chinese restaurants and Chinese temples and gardens. On the weekends, it’s almost always overrun with visitors. Chinatown’s best known, and best loved, contribution to Korean culture is jajangmyeon, a dish of noodles served in black bean sauce, based on a similar dish from Shandong Province. The Gonghwachun, a historic eatery where jajangmyeon was allegedly invented, is now a museum where you can learn about the dish and the history of Incheon’s Chinese community.

TRAVEL

Old Foreign Concessions

In 1876, Korea signed the Treaty of Ganghwado, which opened the country to foreign trade. Incheon was one of several harbor towns to become so-called “open ports,” where international powers set up “concessions” where they established offices, homes and churches built in international styles. This history has left Incheon an architectural heritage that’s very unique in Korea.

The largest of the foreign concessions were those of Qing China, today’s Chinatown, and Japan. Those old concessions are now separated by a landmark flight of steps. In the old Japanese concession you’ll find stately bank buildings, historic warehouses and Japanese-style homes. Several of the old banks are now museums, while the warehouse complex is now a culture and arts center.

Western nations were also present in Incheon, their most important legacy being Freedom Park, Korea’s first Western-style park space. Here’s where you’ll find the city’s famous statue of Korean War hero General Douglas MacArthur. Other Western legacies worth visiting are the old Jemulpo Club, a colonial-style watering hole built by a Russian architect, the historic Nae-dong Anglican Church, and the

beautiful Dap-dong Catholic Church.

Incheon Chinatown

Exotic buildings in the old Japanese concession

Fun park at Wolmido

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Wolmido

Formerly an island, Wolmido is a hilly peninsula that juts out into Incheon Harbor. It has been a popular resort area since the early 20th century, and today its boardwalk, amusement park and seafood restaurants bustle with tourists from all over, especially on the weekends. At the top of the hill that dominates Wolmido is a park with a Korean garden and an observation tower that provides sweeping views over Incheon’s harbor.

Beautiful Sunsets

With its setting on the Yellow Sea, Incheon offers some pretty spectacular sunsets.Excellent views can be had from Yeonan Pier, Incheon’s main passenger boat

pier. It’s a lively place: in addition to the endless passenger traffic, the pier also has a popular fish market and numerous other tourist attractions.

Incheon also has numerous offshore islands from which to take in the sunset. One of the best is Palmido, an island in the middle of the harbor. Home to Korea’s oldest lighthouse, built in 1903, the island offers views of the harbor and the spectacular Incheon Bridge.

Jejudo

Seoul

Incheon

Any trip to Incheon would be incomplete without sampling Chinatown’s fantastic eats. The best known dish is the aforementioned jajangmyeon, but another popular dish is jjamppong, or noodles served in a spicy seafood soup. Hyangmanseong (T. 032-766-2916) and Pungmi (T. 032-772-2680) are historic eateries that have been serving these favorites for decades.

Most people visit Incheon as a day trip from Seoul. If you’d like to stay in Incheon, though, a good place to try is the Harbor Park Hotel (T. 032-770-9500), which has good views over the harbor and downtown Incheon, including Chinatown.

Incheon Station, Line 1

Fun park at Wolmido

Sunset at Bukseong Pier

© KTO

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Lee Yong-dae is one of those rising athletes who will be unstoppable when he gets it going. Recently,

the only thing that came close to stopping the 25-year-old badminton star was not a rival but his own country’s sporting body. For a moment this past January, it seemed that a career-altering setback had crashed into Lee, who became an extraordinary star after winning the mixed-doubles championship at the 2008 Beijing Olympics. He celebrated by winking into the camera, a shot that went viral across

Badminton Prince Eyes Asian GoldLee Yong-dae is the face of Korea’s badminton glory

Written by Kim Tong-hyung

SPORTS

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the Internet. The Badminton World Federation (BWF)

announced that it was suspending Lee and another Korean player, Kim Ki-jung, for repeatedly failing to provide reliable information about their daily whereabouts for drug testing. Had the threatened year-long bans been enforced, Lee and Kim would have been prohibited from competing in this September’s Asian Games, where Lee is seen as a contender in the men’s and mixed doubles events. Lee and Kim were sidelined from competition until April when the BWF reinstated them. This was only after the Badminton Korea Association (BKA) made the embarrassing confession that it had failed to inform the players about the required tests, revealing that Lee and Kim had no intention of avoiding screening. After reinstating Lee and Kim, the BWF slapped the BKA with a fine of USD 40,000 for its blunder.

Three Super Series Wins

Bizarre as it was, the suspension scare feels like a forgotten footnote as Lee has been

on a year-long winning streak. Paired with Korean Army athlete Yoo Yeon-seong in the men’s doubles, Lee won three consecutive gold medals from each of the events he entered after his return: the Super Series Japan Open, the Indonesia Open and the Australian Open. Lee and Yoo’s latest

performance in Sydney was a display of dominance. The Koreans needed just 42 minutes to dispel Taiwan’s Lee Sheng Mu and Tsai Chia Hsin—ranked sixth in the world—in two sets, 21-14 and 21-18. In the mixed doubles, Ko Sung-hyun and Kim Ha-na won their first-ever Super Series title with a win over Germany’s

Michael Fuchs and Birgit Michels, 21-16 and 21-17. If the Ko-Kim duo continues to show promise, Lee’s competition in the Asian Games mixed-doubles event, where he is expected to partner with 20-year-old Shin Seung-chan, might just come from his own compatriots.

“We’re overjoyed to win three Super Series titles in a row, but we don’t want to stop there,” said Lee, setting his sights on the world championships and the Asian Games. Lee Deuk-choon, head coach of the Korean national team, spoke highly of his star pupil and his fast-improving partner. “Lee’s ability in high-pressure situations is superb. He is very dangerous when the score is close. He is on top of his game in counter attacks. Yoo has greatly improved his

defense and the chemistry between the two players has been good,” he said.

High Expectations

As the face of Korean badminton, Lee shoulders the expectations

that have sprouted from the country’s proud history in the sport. It

is a history written by all-time greats such as Park Joo-bong, who dominated the 1980s and early 90s with five world championship titles and three Asian Games gold medals in the men’s and mixed doubles, as well as a men’s doubles gold in the 1992 Barcelona Olympics.

Lee has a long way to go before matching Park’s legacy. While Lee arrived on the scene with a storm, the gold he won in Beijing with Lee Hyo-jung has so far been the highlight of his career. He is still in search of his first world championship title and Asian Games gold medal, although his bronze in the men’s doubles in the 2012 London Olympics is considered a hefty accomplishment. Lee has already declared that it will be gold or bust for him at the Asian Games.

“Now that I am free of distractions, I want to do my very best in preparing for the world championships and the Asian Games. I want to win gold in the Asian Games in particular,” Lee told reporters after the BWF reinstated him.

1. Lee Yong-dae hard at work © Yonhap News2. Korea's Yoo Yeon-seong, left, returns the shuttlecock during the Indonesia Open badminton championship in Jakarta, Indonesia, June 22 © Yonhap News3. Lee Yong-dae poses with his medal at the 2014 Indonesia Open badminton championship © Yonhap News

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K-pop dance covers on YouTube are a dime a dozen. With the popularity of K-pop all across the globe, fans who can bust a move are coming up with

numerous dance covers and uploading them online. It takes exceptional talent, skill and creativity to attain the most views—and the Korean taekwondo demonstration team K-Tigers know this all too well.

While taekwondo demonstrations are always exciting and amazing to watch—with all the high kicks, jumps and wooden block-breaking—the K-Tigers leave a lasting impression by using popular song and dance. Combining their impressive kicks and flips and pumsae, or form movements, with the latest hit songs and their equally popular choreography, the K-Tigers’ taekwondo dance cover is such a brilliant idea that it would be hard to not take notice.

One Big Bang Leads to Another

With a little nudge from one of K-pop’s biggest artists, BIGBANG’s G-Dragon, who tipped the video to his band mate Taeyang and his almost three million followers on Twitter, K-Tigers’ cover video of Taeyang’s song “Ringa Linga” instantaneously became a hit not only among BIGBANG fans but among K-pop fans worldwide. As of this writing, the video is a few thousand views away from reaching four million, and they have also released cover videos of other popular songs, such as EXO’s “Growl” and “Overdose,” and BTS’ “Boy in Luv.”

“That was so legit! I definitely want to take up taekwondo now,” commented a girl with the username supalove.

Among thousands of comments praising how cool and

ENTERTAINMENTENTERTAINMENT

Kicks with a BeatTaekwondo demonstration team K-Tigers kicks its way to the global stage with K-pop tunes

Written by Paola Belle EboraPhotographs courtesy of K-Tigers

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impressive the video is, a number of viewers said they were inspired by the group to take up the martial art, something that K-Tigers has been aiming for since the group’s inception in 1990. “We want to show that taekwondo is not only a martial art and a sport but a product that can develop into a cultural industry,” said Ahn Chang-beom, director of K-Tigers.

Not Just for Kicks

According to Ahn, the group, which has earned itself a reputation of being one of the best taekwondo demonstration

teams around, started performing with music around 2000. “At that time, we

mainly used pop and rock songs. By the late 2000s,

we started using K-pop songs as well,” said Ahn, who is also in charge of the choreography and direction in some of

K-Tigers’ videos. Composed of about

250 high-kicking athletes scouted from all over Korea,

K-Tigers separates itself from the typical demonstration team in that

they take in young athletes and train them to perform, eventually grooming them

into taekwondo actors like their homegrown talent Na Tae-joo, who played a major role in the movie

“The Kick” and will star in the upcoming Hollywood movie “Pan,” and actress Taemi, co-star of “The Kick” who is often photographed performing high kicks. “Currently, aside from those in K-Tigers, it is rare to find taekwondo practitioners who are excellent in another field aside from taekwondo,” said Ahn.

To widen their presence, K-Tigers has recently collaborated with media company CJ E&M and developed the smart phone application called “K-Tigers in Me,” which rounds up all the group’s videos.

“It looks like K-pop is an open door for the outside world to get to know Korean culture. I never knew that taekwondo first started in Korea,” said another YouTube user with the name chi Allen.

With the integration of taekwondo and K-pop, and with the presence of taekwondo in pop culture such as movies and smart phone applications, the group is well on its way to achieving their goal. As more and more people take notice of the martial art and Korean popular culture, people are surely to take interest in K-Tigers, who give both a cool spin.

SPECIAL ISSUE

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Pope Francis celebrates a Mass in St. Peter's Basilica at the Vatican on June 29. © Yonhap News

When the Vatican confirmed on March 10 that Pope Francis would visit Korea in August, many of the

faithful called it a miracle. Korea, with 5.4 million residents who identify as Catholic, is the pope’s first destination in Asia since he began his papacy on March 13, 2013. It has also been 25 years since a pope travelled to Korea—John Paul II, the last papal visitor, was here in 1984 and 1989.

“He is known to have chosen Korea as his first destination in Asia because it is a divided country,” said the Vatican Information Service on May 28.

It turned out his visit couldn’t be more timely, as the sinking of the Sewol ferry on April 16 left the country deeply scarred. While the main purpose for Pope Francis’s visit is to attend the sixth Asian Youth Day in Daejeon, a triennial gathering of some 6,000 young Catholic followers from 23 Asian countries, many Koreans are hopeful that his visit will affect more people than simply practicing Christians; that it could potentially heal believers and nonbelievers alike.

Plan of Action

The three themes that are said to anchor Pope Francis’ visit are youth, martyrdom and peace, united under the motto, “Rise Korea, clothe yourself in light, the Lord’s glory shines upon you,” Vatican Radio said on June 20.

The pope will depart Rome on August 13 and arrive in Seoul at 10:30 AM on Thursday, August 14. On the first day of his apostolic trip, he will visit Cheong Wa Dae to meet President Park Geun-hye and government officials, and to deliver a speech.

On Friday, August 15, the pope will travel some 150 kilometers south to Daejeon via helicopter and celebrate a Mass for the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in the World Cup Stadium, where he will be joined by families of the victims of the Sewol ferry disaster. A representative for the families had asked Cardinal Yeom Soo-jung to arrange a meeting with the pope, and the Vatican decided to invite them to the Mass. It is not known if the pope will see them privately.

Pope Francis Comes to Korea

Papal visit to be opportunity for healing, rejuvenation

Written by Kim Da-ye

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The pope will then move to the shrine of Solmoe, the birthplace of Saint Andrew Kim Dae-geon (1821–1846), and have lunch with young Asian followers during the sixth World Asian Youth Day. Kim was a martyr who was also Korea’s first Catholic priest.

The next day, Pope Francis will be at the Shrine of the Martyrs of Seosomun, Korea’s largest tribute site to Catholic martyrs, located in Gwanghwamun in the heart of Seoul.

He will also celebrate a Mass for the beatification of Paul Yun Ji-chung (1759–1791) and 123 companion martyrs. Yun, a cousin of prominent scholar Jeong Yak-yong, was Korea’s first Catholic martyr. He was persecuted for refusing to hold a Confucian memorial service for his mother. The Seosomun site is located near the justice ministry, the police bureau and the interrogation center of the Joseon Dynasty, where many Catholics died as martyrs. The special Catholic commission that prepares for the pope’s visit said some 200,000 followers will participate in the Mass on this day, and for this reason, the Vatican, the Korean government and the local Catholic church are cooperating to ensure sufficient security has been arranged for the event.

The pope will then travel to Kkottongnae in Eumseong, Chungcheongbuk-do, to visit a rehabilitation center for the disabled, the Vatican Information Service said.

On Sunday, August 17, the pope will meet the bishops of Asia at the Shrine of Haemi in Chungcheongnam-do before celebrating the closing Mass for the Asian Youth Day in the castle of Haemi. In the late 1800s, some 1,000 Catholics were arrested in the Chungcheongdo provinces for their religious beliefs, and then executed or buried alive.

For most Koreans, his last day in the country on August 18 will be the highlight of the trip. After meeting leaders from seven major faiths in Korea—Protestantism, Buddhism, Won Buddhism, Confucianism, Chondogyo, Roman Catholicism and Korean traditional religions—he will celebrate a Mass for “peace and reconciliation” at Myeong-dong Cathedral at 9:45 AM. The preparation committee said that he will deliver a message of peace for Korea.

The Korean Catholic church has also invited North Korean followers to participate in the Mass. The representatives met members of the Catholic Church of North Korea in Shenyang in China on May 18 and 19 and invited them to the Mass, said the Vatican’s news service.

On May 21, Cardinal Yeom visited the Gaeseong industrial park for a day, becoming the first cardinal to visit North Korea. His trip involved a meeting with South Korean

Catholics who work in Gaeseong. The pope’s Mass will also be joined by some of the women

who survived sexual slavery under the Japanese military, which took place during the 1930s and ’40s. Three victims, a nurse from the House of Sharing and a social worker were all invited to the Mass, although it is not confirmed if the pope will meet with them privately. The Korean Catholic church said they will make sure the pope is aware that the victims, who are currently in their late 80s, are present at the celebration.

At 1 PM, the pope will depart for Rome from Seoul Air Base.

Getting Ready

The Argentinian pope, known for his humility, said he wants to keep his trip simple, but the country is determined to turn

SPECIAL ISSUE

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1. Priests and seminary students hold a procession to mark the 235th anniversary of the introduction of Catholicism to Korea in Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do on July 24. © Yonhap News2. Pope John Paul II blesses Hansen’s disease patients during his October 1989 visit to Korea. © Yonhap News3. A Good Friday Mass at Myeong-dong Cathedral © Yonhap News

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the visit into a national event.On March 11, the day after the Vatican’s confirmation of

the pope’s visit, the government formed a committee led by Prime Minister Chung Hong-won to support the event. The committee, joined by most ministers and the police chief, met twice in March and in May.

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs will be responsible for establishing protocol, Cheong Wa Dae will oversee the pope’s security detail and the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism will look after all religious events.

The government is paying particular attention to security, as events like the Mass in Gwanghwamun Square will be held in outdoor venues and draw tens of thousands of visitors. While most of the pope’s travel will happen via helicopter, he has requested a small car for short-distance trips, a departure from his usual large, bulletproof sedan. In Vatican City, the pope is driven in a 1.6-liter Ford Focus.

The National Policy Agency announced July 3 that they will collect and temporarily retain some 65,000 firearms—including air rifles, anesthetic guns and crossbows—owned by Korean citizens.

The local Catholic organizations and communities that host the shrines to be visited by the pope are also busy preparing for the big event.

A community in Dangjin, for example, planted 40,000 crape myrtles along a 3-kilometer road to the Shrine of Solmoe.

The Catholic Education Foundation, by contrast, will celebrate the pope’s visit by performing corneal transplants for

free for those who cannot afford the procedure, regardless of their religion or nationality. Low-income households that earn up to 200 percent of the official minimum cost of living can apply and receive a transplant from five hospitals belonging to the foundation, including Seoul St. Mary’s Hospital.

Pope Francis’s decision to visit Korea came in late 2013. Nazarius Yoo Heung-sik, bishop of the Daejeon diocese, said in an interview with Yonhap news agency on March 11 that he met the pope at the World Youth Day 2013 held in July in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, in which some 350 young Korean followers participated. Yoo then sent many invitations to the pope since their meeting, complete with photos of local seminary students, and the rest is history.

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CURRENT KOREA

On June 22, UNESCO added the mountaintop fortress of Namhansanseong to its World Heritage

List, opening the way for the world to discover one of Korea’s best-kept secrets. Crowing a steep hillside just 25 kilometers south of the capital of Seoul, the fortress is not only a masterpiece of military engineering, but also a historical record of cultural and intellectual exchange between Korea, China, Japan and the West. Its dramatic and not always happy history can also be seen as a microcosm of Korea’s tumultuous past.

A Synthesis of Techniques

Snaking 11.76 kilometers along a rugged mountain ridgeline over 500 meters high, Namhansanseong cuts an impressive image that’s not unlike the Great Wall of China. The fortress wall, which

stands 7.5 meters high in places, is built into the mountainside itself, and the rugged, isolated position allowed its defenders to fend against numerically superior opponents with ease.

Military planners have recognized the importance of the strategic spot, with commanding views over the critical Hangang River valley, the site of today’s Seoul, for over a millennium. According to the 12th century text “History of the Three Kingdoms,” the ancient Korean kingdom of Silla erected a fortress on this site in 672. The current fortress, however, dates from 1624, when King Injo (r. 1623–1649) had the walls built in the aftermath of a major domestic uprising, which was coupled with threats from abroad looming on the horizon.

While the walls are an exceptional example of indigenous fortress design, they also incorporate

Historic mountain fortress harmonizes construction techniques from Asia and the West

Written by Robert Koehler

Namhansanseong Gets UNESCO Status

1. The stone walls of Namhansanseong Fortress © NCTI2. Sueojangdae Pavilion, a command post on the western side of Namhansanseong Fortress © Yonhap News3. Namhansanseong Haenggung, a temporary palace used by the king during national emergencies © Korea.net

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fortress construction techniques from neighboring countries like China and Japan, and were designed as a response to the introduction into East Asia of modern gunpowder weaponry. In this regard, the fortress is more than just a piece of military history, but also a monument to the history of international scientific and intellectual exchange.

More than Just a Wall

While fundamentally a military facility, Namhansanseong was also intended to serve as a temporary capital in times of emergency. Inside the walls is a temporary palace, or haenggung, where the king could reside while his government saw to the affairs of state. Naturally, an administrative city developed around the temporary palace. Even today visitors will find a small village within the walls, along with several Buddhist temples.

Namhansanseong Fortress’ most famous moment came in 1636, when King Injo took refuge here during the Second Manchu Invasion of Korea. The Manchu army immediately laid siege to the fortress, but the defenders, despite being outnumbered 10 to one, held out for 47 days, until shortages of supplies, food and water forced Injo to surrender. The defenders included a

contingent of 3,000 warrior Buddhist monks.In designating the fortress a UNESCO World

Heritage Site, the World Heritage Committee called the site a “living treasure” in that the walled town continues to be inhabited to this day. The committee also recommended that the development in the surrounding area be regulated carefully. Korea’s Cultural Heritage Administration, which is tasked with preserving heritage sites such as Namhansanseong, said, “We will work with related local governments to set up systematic measures to protect and preserve this cultural asset.”

The fortress is Korea’s 11th location to be registered on the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage List. Korea’s listed its first UNESCO World Heritage sites—Gyeongju’s Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple; Haeinsa Temple’s Janggyeong Panjeon Hall; and, Seoul’s Jongmyo Shrine—in 1995. The World Heritage List, the product of the 1971 Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage, aims to “encourage the identification, protection and preservation of cultural and natural heritage around the world considered to be of outstanding value to humanity.” Some 1,007 properties in 161 nations worldwide are currently registered on the list.

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SUMMIT DIPLOMACY

Korean President Park Geun-hye (right) and Chinese President Xi Jinping hold a press conference after their summit. © Yonhap News

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Chinese President Xi Jinping came to Korea for a two-day state visit from July 3 to 4. The visit, a reciprocal visit for President Park Geun-hye’s state visit to China in June of last year, was an opportunity for Korea and

China to solidify relations and deepen the bilateral strategic cooperative partnership between the two countries.

Korea-China Summit

“Recently, the Chinese media referred to the Chinese president as ‘putting people first to please them’. I also heard the media write, in reference to you, ‘Where did the time go?’,” said President Park, who was quoting the Chinese media in fluent Mandarin when discussing President Xi Jinping’s accomplishments. During their discussion, they noted how he has been concentrating on his work and giving the people the highest priority. “I hope your passion and devotion will make ‘Chinese Dreams’ come true by achieving the overall reforms the Chinese government is carrying out,” said President Park at the Korea-China summit with President Xi at Cheong Wa Dae on July 3.

“As you said, ‘If we have an ambition, we can wait, though there is a very long way to go, despite mountain or sea,’ I am certain that if the two countries gather wisdom and power, there should be a solution,” she added.

President Park’s remarks in Mandarin created a cordial mood during the Korea-China summit, and made the Chinese leader smile. President Xi responded that this was his first state visit since being inaugurated as Chinese leader. He expressed gratitude for the warm welcome and hospitality of the Korean government, saying that he was “deeply touched and impressed.”

In the extended summit meeting, President Park said, “Over the last year, bilateral relations have become firmer and have achieved substantial and high-quality growth. I am glad that the two governments have communicated closely and cooperated toward the common goal of peace and stability on the Korean Peninsula and in Northeast Asia. I hope we can further develop such cooperation in the future by becoming one mind for one goal, as is expressed with the Chinese idiom ‘yidéyixin’,” said President Park.

State visit by Chinese President Xi Jinping seen as a chance to forge even closer ties between Korea and China

Written by Wi Tack-whan, Yoon Sojung

Strengthening the Strategic Cooperative

Partnership

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SUMMIT DIPLOMACY

Korea, China Support Denuclearization, Extend Economic Cooperation

After holding the summit meetings at Cheong Wa Dae, the two leaders adopted a joint statement which contained a determined stance in opposition to the nuclear weapons program of North Korea.

In the statement, the two leaders agreed to further develop bilateral relations based on a joint statement signed this year and the joint communiqué for the future of Korea-China relations, which the two countries signed last year. These two statements contain agreements between the two countries, which agreed to become partners in order to promote mutual development, contribute to regional peace, and work for the development of Asia in alignment with global prosperity.

Towards this goal, based on mutual trust, the two countries agreed to establish more developed strategic relations so that the two countries could closely discuss issues of common interest, as well as long-term issues. Both Seoul and Beijing agreed to strengthen cooperation to boost peace and stability on the Korean Peninsula and in Northeast Asia.

The two leaders agreed to expand economic cooperation and trade, with an eye on the future, through creativity and innovation, in order to enhance the quality of life for the peoples of both countries.

Seoul, Beijing Boost Cultural Exchange, Support Trust-Building Process

The two countries agreed to establish heart-to-heart, trust-based relations by boosting two-way people-to-people and cultural exchanges and the deepening the emotional bonds between the two nations. The two sides shared a common understanding on the need for six-party talks. They agreed that the countries affected by the talks should respect and strengthen communication by both bilateral and multilateral means. The ultimate goal is to achieve a denuclearization of the Korean Peninsula and solve issues of common interest, based on the September 19 Joint Statement.

The Korean government aims to build mutual

trust between Seoul and Pyongyang through the “Korean Peninsula trust-building process,” in order to advance inter-Korean relations and help peace take root in the region. South Korea emphasized that the two Koreas need to take steps to solve humanitarian issues on both sides, and build infrastructure for the livelihood of those affected while narrowing the emotional gap between them. Seoul stressed that such steps will contribute to the peaceful unification of the Korean Peninsula and to the co-prosperity of Northeast Asia.

In this aim, China highly valued the efforts of South Korea in improving inter-Korean relations. Beijing supported Seoul’s vision, in which the two Koreas can boost relations, reconcile and cooperate through dialogue. The Chinese leader respected and supported the desire of the Korean people to achieve their ultimate goal of a peaceful unification.

Both China and Korea showed a positive response to the progress being made in negotiations for a free trade agreement (FTA), and agreed to bolster efforts to conclude the deal within this year. Both countries also agreed to make active efforts to establish a system where the Korean won and the Chinese yuan can be traded directly. The two governments further agreed to achieve a volume of people-to-people exchanges of 10 million by 2016. They also agreed to take steps to negotiate an extension of the visa waver

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program in both nations. In this regard, they agreed to designate 2015 and 2016 as the “Years of China–Korea Visits.”

Park, Xi Attend Special Lunch, Economic Forum

President Park held a special lunch meeting with Chinese President Xi Jinping, together with First Lady Peng Liyuan, at the Korea Furniture Museum in Seongbuk-dong, Seoul, on July 4.

This was a reciprocal lunch meeting, since President Xi arranged a special lunch for President Park during her state visit to China last year.

President Park, President Xi and First Lady Peng looked around the museum and learned about the traditional hanok building and the traditional furniture of Korea. President Park then offered gifts to President Xi and his spouse.

Later that afternoon, presidents Park and Xi attended the Korea-China Economic and Trade Cooperation Forum in Seoul to emphasize bilateral cooperation. This is the first time since the establishment of the Seoul-Beijing diplomatic relationship that both leaders have attended such a forum together.

President Park said in her keynote speech that the volume of bilateral economic trade has been gradually expanding.

“China has become Korea’s largest trade partner and Korea has become China’s third largest trading destination. The two countries need a leap forward in order to achieve a greater level of cooperation

and to build common grounds for growth, based on the outcomes they have achieved over the past 20 years,” said President Park.

“To this aim, both countries need to diversify the range of cooperation to include services, energy and newly emerging industries, not only existing manufacturing sectors. The two countries also need to expand the level of market openness and build a more stable trade environment through the Korea-China free trade agreement,” she said.

President Park also said that both countries need to consider ways to collaborate on Korea’s Eurasia Initiative and China’s New Silk Road Vision. In the Eurasia Initiative, Korea envisions expanding the amount of exchanges taking place in all sorts of areas: in logistics, resource development and new industries, as well as in cultural and people-to-people exchanges based on the transport and communication networks that connect Europe and Asia.

In his speech, President Xi reciprocated, saying that the Bank of China was selected as the clearing house for the yuan, based on the agreement to build a direct exchange market between the Korean won and the Chinese yuan. He also proposed the building of a free trade zone, as part of the FTA, in order to bolster economic and trade cooperation between the two countries.

President Xi also expressed hope of strengthening economic cooperation in the long term for sustainable growth. He further proposed to deepen cooperation in trade, finance and international relations.

1. President Park, President Xi and First

Lady Peng Liyuan (last on the right) listen to an

explanation at the Korea Furniture

Museum. © Cheong Wa Dae2. President Park

welcomes President Xi to Cheong Wa Dae. © Yonhap News

3. President Park and President Xi hold a

summit meeting on July 3.© Yonhap News

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POLICY REVIEW

When taking stock of the most potent marketing strategies available in 2014, the inf luence of social media is hard to ignore. This reality is rooted in the fact that, for the average consumer, even the most commonplace day-to-day social interactions can be carried out in certain online contexts as

act of actionable disclosure. More specifically, whether we worry about it nor not, anything we do on or within a network—be it a cellular one or a physical one, such as the postal service—ultimately translates into tremendous amounts of cached meta-data that can tell the people analyzing it a variety of useful points about our habits. For

Big Data MeansBig TourismWhen big data meets tourism, good things happen

Written by Max Kim

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profitable businesses or institutions, this means how the consumerist collective moves or thinks—in short, what we’re buying, as well as when, how and from whom.

The term “big data” was believed to have been first coined in 2001 by analyst Doug Laney. It was created as a way to describe information that was, in his words, high-volume, high-velocity and high-variety. Information of this kind that has been collected on a massive scale is now poised to become the centerpiece of marketing and consumerist trend analysis all over the world. In Germany, logistics provider DHL is offering businesses paid access to a geomarketing tool called Geovista, which curates big data collected by Deutsche Post Direct. As consumers and audiences become increasingly plugged in to their mobile devices, the service is one that can provide useful marketing insights to retailers. France’s La Poste is also making moves to set up a similarly innovative service that can put their broad databases to good (and profitable) use, as is the U.S. Postal Service.

The Korea Tourism Organization (KTO) has also followed suit, although it uses big data from a very different type of network. In a recent analysis of 16 of Korea’s most popular festivals in 2013, the organization sifted through 2,200 terabytes of big data (roughly the amount that can be stored on 510,000 DVDs) to assess the state of festival tourism in Korea in greater detail. It’s part of a larger governmental effort to promote regional economies driven by such festival tourism.

Using information pulled from SKT mobile wireless traffic, social media and Hyundai card transaction records, the analysis is said to have offered a more detailed and specific account of

festival results and trends in key areas, such as attendance. As well as on-site expenditure and festival preference by demographic, the analysis estimated an average attendance rate of 134,000 people daily—an approximately 12 percent increase since the previous year.

Case Study: The Boryeong Mud Festival

In the case of the Boryeong Mud Festival, one of Korea’s biggest festivals, the KTO launched an especially extensive probe into social media data using SKT’s Smart Insight platform. Tracking online “buzz” generated around the festival by following the usage patterns of certain keywords on news websites, blogs, social networking services and online forums, the KTO report took big data analysis a step

further, cataloguing and methodically breaking down even the sentiments expressed in phrases that contained the target keywords, analyzing based on the context in which they were used. The verdict, according to their final report released in May, is that public response to the festival was largely positive, with a high frequency of “mud festival” being mentioned in favorable statements about mud’s health benefits for the skin.

Though this kind of scrutiny may be disconcerting to some, with the age of big data quickly gaining momentum, this report is at the very least a fascinating glimpse into the future. As said in a 2012 International Data Corporation study, the digital universe is expanding at a rate that doubles the data volume every two years, which could mean big advances for tourism.

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As touch screen capabilities become an increasingly popular feature in electronic devices, the need for transparent, touch-sensitive panels for use in technology, such as smartphones and tablet computers, has grown

exponentially. The consequence of this increasing demand has been a surge of product development in related applications, with a focus on technologies that enable pressure-based interaction for touch screens. For researchers and designers, this means pushing themselves to even greater lengths to make the technology more functional, practical and versatile. One such development has come from a team of domestic researchers who have published a groundbreaking study in this field, an advance that could rewrite the future of the next generation flexible display market.

Overcoming Challenges

A testament to the nation’s high technological prowess, the Electronics and Telecommunications Research Institute (ETRI) has developed the world’s first transparent and flexible touch sensor sheet. Although the newly developed panel is only 50 micrometers thick—about 50 percent thinner than a strand of human hair—its surface can collect information in real time, including the direction, amount of pressure and temperature of a single stroke. In addition to being waterproof, it can also be freely bent or rolled without influencing the sensor signals, even when users

Touchable Gets FlexibleDomestic researchers develop world’s first transparent and flexible touch sensor panel

Written by Sohn Tae-soo

CREATIVE TECHNOLOGY

1

1. Researcher Choe Mi-jeong holds a touch sensor.© ETRI2. ETRI tests the capacity of a touch sensor it developed. © ETRI3. A multi-touch sensor worn above the arm© ETRI

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apply force to various spots at the same time. A quality that can be attributed to its thinness and flexibility, the panel can be applied to almost any type of surface, making it an ideal material for a wide variety of future uses, one of which being the flexible display market.

Before the developers were able to realize this potential, however, there were a number of hurdles that needed to be overcome in the engineering process. One main challenge was the removal of any electronic components from the sensing surfaces, which, if left in the design, ran the risk of compromising the signal when the panel was twisted, bent or stretched. Thanks to the use of state-of-the-art polymer optical waveguides, a technology akin to optical fibers, the developers’ goal for transparency and malleability in their new designs is finally a reality.

Wide-Ranging Applications

Now that the project has moved out of the prototype stage, the next step is to determine the most logical applications

for this type of touch screen technology. Among its highly diverse applications is the robotics industry. Any major leap in the sensitivity of tactile sensors will mean significant progress for researchers trying to maneuver robot hands around highly delicate objects or membranes, for example, in the medical field, or attempting to develop flexible displays and wearable devices.

The scientists also pointed out that the technology has obvious smartphone applications. Namely, while the existing smartphone is capable of perceiving a user’s touch with ETRI technology, users can materialize such composite Korean consonants as “double giyeok” (ㄲ, ssang-giyeok in Korean) simply by increasing the intensity of their keystrokes. The new technology will also enable smartphones to recognize a user’s individual handwriting.

Since the breakthrough, the ETRI has filed for eight patents, and its results have been featured in the online scientific journal Advanced Materials (“Polymer-Waveguide-Based Flexible Tactile Sensor Array for Dynamic Response,” Yun et al, 2014). The ETRI plans to transfer this cutting-edge technology to enterprises producing displays and film-type pressure sensors, and from there to commercialize it in close cooperation with industries over the next two years.

“The development of the flexible touch sensor sheet has been possible due to the collaboration of experts with their creative ideas in various related sectors: electronic engineering, mechanical engineering, optical science and material engineering,” said Kyung Ki-uk, director of the Transparent Transducer and UX Creative Research Center at the ETRI’s Future Research Creative Laboratory (FRCL). This development will further the ETRI’s mission to promote the status of Korea in the ICT industry, a goal the organization has pursued since its founding in 1976.

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GLOBAL KOREA

International non-profit humanitarian organization Good Neighbors believes that painting a KRW 3,000 cotton bag can sustain and raise hope among more than

57 million children worldwide who have yet to be formally educated. The Good Neighbors’ Hope Bag project offers people the chance to participate in establishing schools and supporting education for children. A total of 14,886 Hope Bag kits were sold in 2013, with the proceeds going to kids in Nepal, India, Myanmar, Laos, Bangladesh and Indonesia.

This year, the organization, dedicated to child education, community development and emergency relief projects in 30 countries around the world, resumed its projects on May 12 and they will run through December 31. All elementary, middle and high school students can join the campaign by paying KRW 3,000 per kit, but she or he must take an online course about not only the making of the bag but also why it should be made. When the course is completed, students receive a digital certificate, decorate the bag, and attach the final drawstrings. Students who

participate as part of their mandatory volunteer program have to take a photo with the bag and their family. Then, students turn in the photos, the certificate and the bags to the organization. The proceeds will be delivered between August 2014 and January 2015.

A Lesson for All

“I first came across the idea because of my children, who recommended that I introduce it to schools as a means to earn volunteer credits,” said Kim Min-seo, a mother of two middle school students who have made Hope Bags. “But in the end I learned a lot myself. The project was designed not only to make children paint a bag but also to let them learn a deeper message by

Painting Bags of Hope Good Neighbors’ ‘Hope Bag’ project promotes spirit of sharing

Written by Bae Ji-sook

1

1. Happy Laotian children with their Bags of Hope © Good Neighbors2. Korean students making Bags of Hope © Good Neighbors

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heart. They can witness a small change they can make in the world,” she added.

Where There’s Life, There’s Hope

“We believe that education is one of the most important factors in fighting global poverty, famine and other global issues that we are facing. In 2012, United Nations Secretary General Ban Ki-moon launched the Global Education First policy, encouraging members to prioritize providing children with quality education,” a Good Neighbors Korea representative stated. “We hope everyone can join hands through this project and work for a better future.”

Celebrities have joined the cause as well. K-pop group 4Minute and boy band B2B have created their own Hope Bags to promote the campaign.

“This is a great opportunity for all of us to share what we have and, moreover, love,” said Lee Min-hyuk, a B2B

member, in a promotion video. “We have had a great time painting and assembling our own eco-friendly Hope Bags and we hope everyone else will do the same.”

Members of 4Minute brainstormed catchphrases and PR messages for the Hope Bag project with students at Sangmyung High School in Seoul. “It was so much fun and meaningful to come up with the best ideas for such a meaningful cause,” the group said.

In 1996, Good Neighbors achieved General Consultative Status, the highest position on the United Nations Economic and Social Council. In 2007, the group was recognized by the International Association of Economic and Social Councils and Similar Institutions in association with the Millennium Development Goals.

In 2012, the group became a partner of the Global Alliance for Clean Cookstoves, a project initiated by the United Nations Foundation and launched by Hillary Rodham Clinton.

Making a Hope Bag

2

Gathering basic materials like markers, straps, etc.

Giving the recipient school some imagination and color!

Adding the straps so kids can carry around hope

Admiring the finished product before sending it off

421

GREAT KOREAN

Independence fighter traded a life of comfort for one of justice

Written by Felix Im

Kim Jwa-jin

Defend the Weak, Monitor the Powerful

Independence fighter and social revolutionary Kim Jwa-jin (1889–1930) was born with the incredible strength of character to be able to sympathize with the weak while standing up to those in power. Even when playing soldier as a child, it’s said that he would often write the words, “Defend the Weak, Monitor the Powerful” on his flag. It’s also said that he would feed the poor whenever possible, sometimes offering the very clothes off his own back when passing those without shelter. Born in an era when the Joseon Dynasty was crumbling and succumbing to foreign powers, Kim precociously recognized the importance of Korean identity and independence long before Japanese colonization even took effect. Upon reaching adulthood, he soon realized that the “weak” he had once dreamed of protecting were in fact his own people.

Kim was born in 1889 to a wealthy family in Chungcheong-do. After losing his father at the age of three, Kim and his older brother were raised by their mother until Kim was 13, when his older brother was adopted by a more prominent family. From then onwards, Kim acted as the de facto head of the household, which forced maturity upon him at a very young age. Acutely interested in both military affairs and martial arts, his keen sense of justice continued to develop throughout his adolescent years. When he was around 16, Kim decided to free all the slaves that were registered with his household, gathering them so they could all witness him burn his family’s slave

registry. On top of granting them freedom, Kim also provided each former slave with a plot of

1. Statue of Kim Jwa-jin © Kim Jwa-jin Memorial League2. Portrait of Kim © Kim Jwa-jin Memorial League3. Painting of the Battle of Qingshanli © Kim Jwa-jin Memorial League

land from his inheritance, leaving very little for himself. In a society as highly stratified as Joseon, such an act was nothing short of revolutionary.

The Resistance

In 1905, Kim left his hometown to enroll in a military academy in Seoul. He returned to his hometown after graduation and set up his own school, using what he had left over from his inheritance and offering his own home to serve as the school building. He also became involved in nationalist and liberation groups. When Japan officially annexed Korea in 1910, Kim began collecting funds to fuel the independence movement using a small shop as a front. He was arrested for his actions in 1911 and served two years in the famous Seodaemun Prison, now a museum, where several other independence activists were held throughout the colonial era.

In 1918, Kim moved his activities to Manchuria and in 1919 established a training facility in order to build Korea’s own liberation army. The academy produced 298 graduates the following year, just in time to counter

the Japanese troops that had been dispatched to Manchuria to eliminate Korean rebels. The battle that ensued quickly attained legendary status, and the Battle of Qingshanli in October 1920 is now considered one of Korea’s greatest victories during the independence movement. In the dense forests of eastern Manchuria, Kim and fellow Korean forces battled Japanese troops over a period of roughly six days. Despite relying on mostly guerilla tactics, the smaller Korean army was more organized and better trained than Japanese officers had expected, inflicting over 1,300 Japanese casualties with only 900 troops.

Kim went to on help establish a rebel group called Sinminbu in 1925, with the intent of moving out of Manchuria to launch attacks on Japanese troops stationed in Korea. Plans were even made to assassinate the Governor-General in Seoul. Tragically, however, Kim himself was assassinated in 1930 by radical communists before his plans saw fruition. In honor of Kim’s sacrifice and service, he was posthumously awarded the Order of Merit for National Foundation in 1962. He is remembered today as one of the liberation movement’s greatest heroes.

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MY KOREA

There is little I enjoy more than an orchestra tuning their instruments in the moments before the curtain rises. The excitement that fills the hall when cell

phones are turned off and each person settles in for a one- or two-hour escape from their daily life is a delight shared by all who love live performances. Whether you’re enjoying a show from the plush seats of a theater or a wooden bench outside, the small northeastern neighborhood known as Daehangno, or “College Street,” offers a homegrown arts experience unlike anything else in the city.

Seoul’s Off-Broadway

Once the home of Seoul National University, Daehangno was taken over by theaters, coffee shops, restaurants and clothing stores after the school relocated to south of the Hangang River in the 1970s. While Seoul has much to offer in the way of live theater, the streets of Daehangno are always abuzz with fresh and exciting shows. Filled with small, black box style venues, the neighborhood is a hotbed for Korean stage talent. The area’s few large theaters are still surrounded by a thriving indie scene, which includes everything from original works written and performed by Koreans to popular dramas and movies that have been made into musicals for fans. The popularity of some of the shows has translated into multi-year

Culture on College StreetSeoul’s theater district, Daehangno is filled with drama and passion

Written by Sakura Huey Illustrated by Kim Yoon-myong

45

runs—an impressive feat for a city as large as Seoul. “Thrill Me” is one such production. A crime heist story that only saw minimal success in the United States, it has since found enthusiastic audiences in Korea and is now a mainstay of the Daehangno world. Staged countless times and with a different cast and director every year, it has become a modern classic—always drawing my interest to see what each new production will bring. Other shows are complete originals being tested on local audiences, an attempt to see who can earn the elusive standing ovation.

In Daehangno, the most famous of the Korean musical actors and actresses rub elbows with up-and-coming stars. Walking the streets, one can see and hear the hawkers wearing sandwich boards promoting different (and often affordable) shows each night. After the curtain falls, the actors will normally greet patrons near the box office—a gesture to honor their devoted fans.

Street Performances, Too

If watching live theater is not your cup of tea, then grab a coffee and head over to Marronnier Park. On any Saturday or Sunday afternoon, look to the shade of the chestnut trees for impromptu live performances from a diverse array of local musicians. I recently enjoyed two older men who put on a lively guitar and drum set and heckled the crowd in between songs. Their repertoire somehow included both K-pop covers and Mozart’s “The Magic Flute.” Over a hundred people sat captivated for an hour, while, across the park, next to women selling trinkets on a blanket, three young college students beatboxed with only a mic and an amp, making a fine attempt at stealing the attention from the seasoned pros.

In the summer months, the coffee shops are filled with students and those who want to people-watch. Outdoor seating is available to relax with an iced coffee or patbingsu, and live music can be heard from the second-floor terraces of pubs nearby.

After business hours, the nightlife is alive but not rowdy, mostly because students go elsewhere to dance. In Daehangno, the best way to unwind is having a cool cocktail or beer with friends or a lover while pop music plays in the background. This little pocket of Seoul is one of my favorite places to visit in Korea time and time again. There is something wonderful about the streets coming alive with art and music in a communal way. Be it in a crowded theater or sitting in the park, once you exit Hyehwa Station, the streets of Daehangno are there to welcome you.

46

MULTICULTURAL KOREA

It’s no secret that Korea has traditionally been an ethnically homogenous nation—the label danilminjokgukga, which roughly translates as, “single-race nation,” encapsulates this idea well enough. However, it’s also no secret that

low birthrates and a long waiting line of otherwise ineligible bachelors (especially in rural areas) have put international marriages in an upsurge. Despite recently increased government efforts, cultural and social assimilation for these immigrant brides and their families remains a challenge, as social perceptions continue to lag behind the nation’s newfound ethnic diversity. Though the subject has yet to enter popular public discourse, the numbers heavily suggest that it should: International brides are expected to exceed 1.5 million by 2020, and with that number comes an increasing need for measures that address the various obstacles they face upon arrival.

Breaking Glass Ceilings At the multicultural restaurant I’m Asia, immigrant wives discover ways to find permanent careers and culturally assimilate

Written by Max KimPhotographed by Ahn Jong-hwan

47

Employment is at the fore of this issue, and I’m Asia, an Asian cuisine and cultural café in Daejeon, is one real-world example of what is being done by a small but dedicated group to help foreign brides increase their marketability and pursue long-term careers in Korea. Founded in 2012 by social workers at the Daejeon Migrant’s Welfare Center (DJMC), this multi-ethnic eatery trains and hires immigrant brides from all around Asia, many of whom have experienced difficulty finding stable employment or have otherwise experienced discrimination—hitting the glass ceiling—in the jobs they did have.

Pride in One’s Work

No Ok-ja, who moved to Korea from China in 2005 to be with her husband, recounts a handful of such experiences. “I earned a bunch of cooking qualifications at the DJMC and have been building up my restaurant work experience,” she says in f luent Korean, “but it was always like an apprenticeship. I earned less than the Korean ajummunis [Korean mid-aged women], and I was mostly just told to chop vegetables, wash dishes or to do other menial tasks.” For Ms. No, however, it’s not just about the money, but about feeling fulfilled and being able to be proud of what she does—or can do. However, this is a luxury that is still unavailable to immigrant women workers at large. “There just isn’t much work for immigrant women here,” says No. “The pay is low and there are very few options that we can choose from.” Her experience is by no means an uncommon one, with the vast majority of immigrant women in the Korean restaurant business being confined to

positions that offer little room for advancement.Thirty-year-old Song Mi-seon, one of No’s

colleagues, came to Korea in 2004 after being introduced to her current husband. Like No, she also faced her fair share of difficulties in assimilating and finding a job, despite having earned a variety of qualifications at the DJMC. Before joining the team at I’m Asia, Song worked as a cafeteria helper for two years at her daughter’s school, but today she develops and cooks the Vietnamese dishes she grew up eating at what she describes as her first real jikjang, or career—not just temporary work.

Finally Fitting In

“As a foreign bride from Vietnam, I experienced a lot of prejudice,” says Song, “People always assumed that I’m here because of money.” But as I’m Asia gained media coverage on TV and in newspapers, Song says that these kinds of attitudes began to change.

“People around me are starting to realize that I’m a hardworking person. My husband, my father-in-law and my family here are very proud of what I’m doing,” says Song. “They tell me that I should straighten my shoulders and walk with pride.”

No and Song collaborate with a diverse team of chefs that come from all around Asia, developing recipes, planning menus and honing their craft together. This purposeful professionalism and newfound sense of confidence is something that both women attribute to the unique environment at I’m Asia.

“I love that I can work alongside other women from all over the world,” says No. “I’m confident here, and now I’m confident when I’m out walking in the street, too.”

“When I’m much older, I would like to have my own restaurant like this,” says Song, “As the sajang [owner, president].”

The women of I’m Asia hard at work but having

fun while doing it

Long ago, on a farm far away, there lived a poor farmer who worked hard every day, digging, planting, plowing, harvesting and herding. Because he was

poor, no woman wanted to marry him, and thus he continued living alone, working from sunrise to sunset. As the days wore on, his muscles grew tired and his soul ached for company.

“What’s the point of harvesting all this food if I never have anyone to eat it with?” he grumbled one day.

“You can eat it with me!” a voice said. It was a radiant and cheerful voice—and it was feminine. Startled, the man stood still and looked around, but there was no sign of anyone.

He said again, louder this time, “Who will eat all this food with me?”

“I’ll eat it with you!” the bright, lovely voice chirped again. The farmer quickly rushed towards the direction of the

voice, which appeared to come from a bushel of grass on the edge of his field. When he brushed the grass aside, the farmer found nothing but a giant snail shell. “Hmmm, that’s strange,” he thought, “but I’ll take you home anyways.” After bringing

the snail shell back to his house, the farmer placed it in his room, wondering if there was any reason to be hopeful.

A Mysterious LunchThe next day, after a hard morning’s work, the farmer returned home for lunch. He was extremely surprised, however, to discover that lunch had already been made. Upon opening the door his nose was greeted with the smell of warm rice and a plethora of home-cooked dishes. While wondering who was behind such kindness, he happily feasted on the best lunch he’d ever had. The next day, after another hard morning’s work, he came home to another delicious meal. The same thing happened the following day. After several days of a mysterious lunch appearing out of nowhere, the farmer decided to investigate. The next morning, he pretended to go out to the fields and instead hid himself in a place where he could see inside the house.

Not before long, he saw a lovely woman appear from the snail shell. She was so beautiful the farmer suddenly lost all

TALES FROM KOREA

48

Bad things come to those who can't wait

Written by Felix ImIllustrated by Shim Soo-keun

The Snail-Shell Bride

49

reason. With a few snaps of her slender fingers, the angelic guest summoned a feast fit for a banquet hall, with all the delicious delights he’d been enjoying the past few days. Completely smitten and drooling with affection, the farmer leapt out of his hiding place and proclaimed his love for her.

“Don’t go!” the farmer pleaded. “Stay here with me, just like you said that day on the field.”

The woman, with hypnotizing eyes, looked at the farmer forgivingly and affectionately. “Oh, dear, I’d love to,” she cooed, “but you need to wait just a few more days. Then we can live happily ever after.” She explained that she had come from the heavens, but had committed a minor crime and couldn’t be with him until the matter was resolved—a probation period, of sorts. She then gave a word of caution: “If I stay now, our happy union will end in tragedy.”

Patience is a Virtue The farmer, however, was so enchanted and in love and wouldn’t let her go. Eventually, the woman gave in to his

wishes, and the two enjoyed a short period of bliss. One day, however, the farmer needed to go deep into the mountains and did not return until well after dark. While he was gone, the local magistrate’s carriage happened to pass by the farm just as the farmer’s new wife wandered outdoors to see if her beloved husband had returned. The magistrate, upon spotting her beautiful face, became infatuated beyond reason, and proceeded to seize her and bring her back to his quarters. The woman protested and pleaded, but the magistrate was not a kind man. When the farmer returned home and found out what happened, he immediately went to the magistrate and begged for his wife’s prompt release. Despite being beaten and thrown out several times, the farmer was relentless—he continued to come back. This continued until the farmer died, though whether it was out of loneliness or of too many beatings is too difficult to tell. The farmer’s wife, too, eventually fell ill and also died. The tragic couple then turned into a pair of lovely birds that are said to grace the skies of the area to this day.

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FLAVOR

Written by Shin Yesol

Patbingsu

A favorite summer treat, patbingsu is a shaved ice dessert topped with sweet red bean, rice cake and sometimes other ingredients such as fruit,

ice cream or ground nut powder. Not only is it tasty and delightfully refreshing on hot Korean summer days, but it’s got some pedigree, too. Records show that in the days of the Joseon Dynasty, officials would enjoy finely crushed

ice mixed with fruit. While the dish has changed quite a bit since then, the basic idea remains the same.

In recent years, innovative café owners have introduced a wide range of new twists to their patbingsu, including ones made with green tea powder or served with a shot of espresso. For many, though, the classic patbingsu—ice, red bean and rice cake—is still the best.

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