Koi Health - · PDF fileKoi Health And Disease ... crushed oyster shell, crushed coral, and...

Koi Health And Disease

R E L O A D E D

Erik L. Johnson, D.V.M.

BEGINNER TO ADVANCED LIFE-SAVING TECHNOLOGY

• Parasites • Microscopy & Diagnostic Techniques • Medicine Chest To Have On Hand • Surgery & Anesthesia of Fish • Internet and Other Resources • “How-To” Treatments • 50+ Photographs • Dozens of Illustrations • Easy to Use Charts • Just as Disorganized As Ever! • Thank Goodness For The Comprehensive Index! • Updated for 2006

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Table of Contents

Introduction How To Use This Book Page 4 Table Of Contents Page 5-6 Ten Commandments of Koi Keeping Page 7 Basics of Water Quality Alphabetically Page 8-18 The pH Pill Page 18 The Cycle and Beneficial Bacteria - Bioseeding Page 23 Heat Stress Page 27 Cold Shock Page 28 Ammonia Toxicity, Nitrite Toxicity, Nitrate Toxicity, PH Acidosis, Alkalosis Page 29 Hydrogen Sulfide Page 30 Chlorine Toxicity, Electrocution Page 31 Arsenic Toxicity Page 34 Quarantine Page 35 Scoliosis Page 37 Fatty Liver, Nutrition Overview, Feed Recommendations Page 38 Plants, Algae, and UV Page 43 Skin, Gill, Air Sac, Teeth and other Koi Anatomy of Import Page 46 Chilodonella and Costia Page 51 Epistylis Page 54 Hexamita Page 55 Ich Page 56 Oodinium Page 59 Trichodina Page 62 Flukes / Trematodes Page 63 Argulus Page 68 Anchor Worm Page 69 Lufenuron for Crustaceans Page 70 Pathogen and Medicine Of Choice 2006 Page 71 Bacterial Infections Page 72 Aeromonas Page 72 Flexibacter Page 73 Pseudomonas and Pathogen Chart Page 74 Mycobacteria & Dropsy Page 75 Bacterial Infections - Basic Combat Concepts Page 79 Koi Ulcer Disease - A Specific Bacterial Infection Page 83 Educational Image of Properly Bagged Fish Page 84 Antibiotic Injection Page 86 Bacterial Infections: Common Questions Page 90 Fungal Infections (Saprolegnia, Branchiomyces) Page 92 Viral Infections (Lymphocystis, Carp Pox, SVC and Koi Herpes) Page 95-105 Symptoms List - Noteworthy Symptoms of Disease Page 106 Chemotherapy Page 109 Chloramphenicol Page 109


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Baytril Azactam Page 110 Amikacin Page 111 Nuflor Page 112 Rocephin Page 116 Cefotetan Page 117 Ceftiofur Page 118 Dexamethasone Page 119 Injection Technique Illustrated Page 121 Entubation of Antibiotics Page 123 Medicated Food Page 127 Water Treatment: Salt Page 128 Water Treatment: Formalin Page 133 Hydrogen Peroxide Page 135 Organophosphates Page 136 Diflubenzuron / Chitin Synthesis Inhibitors Page 138 Supaverm For Flukes Page 139 Copper (and a Heron “Factoid”) Page 142 Potassium Permanganate Via Four Regimens Page 143 Praziquantel Page 155 Antibiotic Dips Page 157 Tricide Neo Topical Antibacterial Remedy Page 159 Anesthesia and Surgery in Koi Page 161 Hobbyist Diagnostics - The microscope Page 167 Skin scrapes - biopsies Page 168 Fin Snips Page 170 Necropsy - Autopsy Page 171 Running the Gut Page 173 Equipment for Necropsy - Shipping Fish Page 174-175 Koi Importation Page 176 Limiting Koi Losses At Retail Page 178 Health Flow Chart for Retailers Page 184 Koi Health at Koi Shows Page 185 Koi Behavior Page 188 Winterizing Koi Ponds Page 190 Coldwater and Fish Diseases Page 194 Supercooling Page Page 195 Resources Page 200 Index Page 203 Then, make sure you check out the Index because there is so much ELSE covered in this book – like turtles, on page 184 and why fish get black blotches on page 200!

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Basics of Koi Health Water Quality parameters of note: For the purposes of this book, we will define, alphabetically, some of the buzzwords you should know in order to grasp the basic concepts of water quality. Acidity Acidity is simply a measure of the pH of water. Water is considered "acid" when the pH is below NEUTRAL (7.0) and 'acid' water may range on the short term from as low as 5.5 up to 7.0.

As long as the pH does not change in the acid (downward) direction in a short time span (pH Crash), Koi could care less about water as long as the pH is higher than 6.5 - (Koi & Goldfish rather dislike an acid pH) but would prefer alkaline waters if given a choice. It is interesting to note that you can raise a Kois pH (e.g. 6.0 up to 8.0) relatively quickly, but you would see noticeable stress or illness by dropping the pH a mere two points in 12 hours (e.g. 8.0 down to 6.0) Alkalinity

Alkalinity can mean one of two things. If a pH registers over 7.0 then the water is called "Alkaline". In other usages, the word “Alkalinity” refers to the buffering capacity (bicarbonate concentration) of water. Several compounds contribute carbonate activity to water, including Baking Soda (Sodium bicarbonate) as well as crushed oyster shell, crushed coral, and crushed dolomite. The “Carbonate Alkalinity” is simply a measure of these active bicarbonates in water, which act solely to keep the pH from rising or falling by mediating the use or accumulation of Hydrogen ions, see discussion of pH. If I could only have one test, being forced to choose between Alkalinity and pH – I would choose Alkalinity - because it is a “future predictor” of pH performance in the near future. An Alkalinity over 50 ppm suggests that the pH will be

okay for at least a week or more, depending on fish load. Higher fish loads and warm water drag down the Alkalinity (and pH) faster. Alkalinity under 30 ppm suggests that a “pH Crash” looms in the near future.


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Ammonia Ammonia is the primary waste product of fish, excreted primarily through the gill tissue (75%) but to a lesser extent via the kidney (25%). Ammonia can also accumulate from the decay of dead fish tissues, food and other organic debris derived from protein (nitrogen). Ammonia accumulations cause reddening of the fishes skin and damage to the gills by means of its direct caustic effect on these surfaces. Fish excrete Ammonia from their gills by osmosis. If a fish's gills are damaged, it cannot excrete ammonia sufficiently. It gets worse, if the ammonia level in the pond or tank is high, the fish cannot excrete its ammonia through the gills against this gradient. So the ammonia stays in the fish and kills it. Do not let ammonia accumulate in the water! Fish suffering in water with high ammonia accumulations will isolate themselves, lie on the bottom, clamp their fins, secrete excess slime, and are much more susceptible to parasitic and bacterial infection. Ammonia has been shown to depress the immune system (via the cortisol stress-response on vitally important immune fighter cells) at chronic low levels, below 0.25 ppm. For this reason, I recommend that NO ammonia level be regarded as "tolerable" in your system. Because really, any Ammonia is intolerable to the hobbyist, one must ask why it’s important to buy ammonia test kits that can detect changes as small as a tenth of a point? It’s not. You will overspend on an Ammonia test – with all that accuracy – instead, when you know that if you have any measurable level of Ammonia, you have an action-item – that is, a water change.

If you have ammonia accumulations, even low levels, I suggest that the problem is either over production by the fish (either via numbers of fish or amount of feed), or it is a result of under-utilization, e.g. inadequate filter biomass or circulation. Ammonia is a big problem in new systems because the bacteria that would naturally reduce or remove ammonia are not yet established, see discussion of cyclep23. As well, even in established systems, ammonia may accumulate in springtime when the water is cold but fish are eating, because filter bacteria have not usefully emerged from "hibernation". You may also see Ammonia accumulations in the Fall as water temps decline, and beneficial ammonia-reducing bacteria function less and less efficiently. Ammonia ionizes to a relatively non-toxic form below pH 7.4 and so (in its ionized state as Ammonium) it is less toxic to fish. When the pH is higher than 8.0 most ammonia is de-ionized, and so becomes more toxic. Care should be taken not to increase the pH of a system above 7.2 if very much ammonia is present, but the need to drop the pH or restrict aeration to tanks of fish to keep pH down (allowing Carbonic Acid

accumulation to hold down the pH to preserve Ammonia in its non toxic state) is an overrated aberration in the literature. Please, never decrease aeration in the show tanks just to hold down the pH for ammonia. W

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In nature, there is bacterium called Nitrosomonas that metabolizes or reduces Ammonia into Nitrite, which will be discussed under headings Cycle and Nitrites Treatment for Ammonia: Water changes, abbreviated feeding schedules, and management of the pH near or just above neutral (7.2 to 7.4) will go a long way to cutting losses from Ammonias. Ancillary, (less useful) modes of Ammonia management include the use of the various water conditioners that bind ammonia, and the application of rechargeable Zeolites (clinoptilolite ion exchanging resin) to the system filter. I am still going to tell you that time (for biofiltration to catch up) and water changes are the two mainstays, however. The reader is advised to consult the section on filtration, as well. With any obvious deterioration of water quality, you are well advised to begin a systematic daily changing of 20-40% of the total volume in the system. There are some important points to consider before going out and wholesale changing the water. First, make sure the water change does not radically change the temperature of the system. Secondly, be sure that the water change does not result in truly electrolyte poor water. One test of this is the Total Alkalinity, but other salts are important as well. Treatment for Ammonia: Water changes.

You should also use the index to find the paragraphs on bio seedingp25 – it works and it’s a fast way to curb ammonia and early-cycle troubles. It might no hurt to add a teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in any major water change where live plants are not being maintained. This will

ease the stress of the water change on the fish and stimulate the production of a healthy, protective slime coating. Scale less fishes will not be harmed by that salt dose; the salt to use would be either table salt or sea salts. If you have to use Iodized salt, go ahead, however, I think the Iodine can temporarily stun the beneficial bacteria in your filter. Iodized salt is harmless to the fish. The final consideration in doing daily, massive water changes is to be sure the pH is not fluctuating wildly with each change. Does the tap water resemble the pH in the system? Some well water arises from the ground with an extremely low, or high pH depending upon where in the country you are. Well-water may also emerge from the source with a VERY low oxygen level, or high levels of undesirable gases and dissolved compounds.

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As a side note, be careful about adding all sorts of fancy water conditioners to the water. For example, there is a synthetic agent that coats the fish with a protective coating. This is usually very neat. But consider that until it is reformulated, it could be a detriment in some cases of significant parasitic or chemical gill damage because the compound coats the gills as well. This can complicate respiration where the gills were not functioning beautifully to begin with. Another set of chemicals are sold to bind Ammonia. Some of these use aldehydes to accomplish this feat. The aldehydes can accumulate and become caustic to fish if no ammonias are actually present. They are useful, but should be used sparingly and judiciously. Ammonia Control: To re-cap

1. Change Water: 20-40% per day, watching temp while measuring and supporting Total Alkalinity and electrolytes.

2. Consider adding a teaspoon of salt per gallon with the changes, and finally, 3. Don't go overboard on the water conditioners. 4. Suspend or Reduce feeding, switch to Cheerios or other non protein

cereal 5. Ensure that filtration is adequate in circulation and oxygenation.

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Zeolites (clinoptilolite) may be of use to you for ammonia control. Zeolites are an exhaustible clay resin that binds Ammonia from water. You can tell when to recharge the Zeolites by measuring the Ammonia in the system; when the Ammonias return after employing the Zeolites, you know it's time to recharge. Even in stable systems, they should be used for no more than 3-4 weeks without recharging. They can be recharged in a stiff saltwater solution (2-3%). Remember this fact and protect your fish: That is; if you use salt for another purpose, the Zeolites, when exposed to the salt, will dump their accumulated Ammonia back into circulation, so remove the Zeolites before using SALT! To actually recharge the Zeolites, simply fill a 5-gallon bucket and put 40-50 tablespoons salt in it. Soak the Zeolites overnight and re-use the saltwater over and over for this. Zeolites will NOT starve your filter.

Resources for economical, accurate and adequate water test kits for Ammonia would be any of the various commercial drop type test kits. They are very inexpensive, commonly available, and sufficiently accurate. Maybe not as accurate as the HACH test kits (Hach.com) , but then again, they don't cost $176 either! I tend to avoid the dry tab test kits, as they can be very hard to read, more expensive, and more inaccurate! Did you know that Ammonia reduction by beneficial bacteria (Nitrosomonas) can reduce the pH of the system? Yes, it can. In the reduction of Ammonia, Oxygen is required and H+ ions are released. The liberation of H+ ions lowers the pH unless the water is well bufferedp17.

Water that is warm, high in pH or deprived of oxygen will have an enhanced toxicity when ammonias are accumulating. These are all-important considerations as we try to interpret the varying symptomatology of fish at the same ammonia level, for example, but are affected very differently. Buffers "Buffers" help those folks whose pH will not remain constant due to a variety of factors. Simply sunlight and its effect on plant respiration can modify the pH of a system, unless it is buffered. Fish wastes and the metabolic by-products of de-nitrification (H+ ions) also bring down the pH, unless it is buffered p17. Compounds that provide buffering activity include: Dolomite, Crushed Coral, Oyster Shell, Bicarbonate, Limestone, and a variety of commercial buffers on the market. I used SeaChem® Neutral Regulator for years


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because of it's ease of use and relative economy. For Koi, I recommend Limestone, SeaChem® Neutral Regulator, Kent African Cichlid Buffer, BuffitUp or Oyster Shell. Baking Soda is a short acting buffer that requires frequent addition to sustain a decent carbonate Alkalinity and pH. See also “pH Pill”p18 Dissolved Oxygen Oxygen is obviously essential to fish health, but how much or how little? Two test kits are available, I would recommend owning one of them. HACH (hach.com) makes one and there is another at the Pet store that is in a little vial you break in the water to be tested and collect a blue sample and compare it to a chart.

Levels as low as 3 ppm at least partially explain why fish are dying like flies. Minimum levels would be 5 ppm. This level will permit fish to live a few days. Levels as low as 7 could, and should be improved with an air stone or Venturi pump. Levels over 8 ppm are desirable and fairly easily achieved, but 11 or better (up to 14 ppm) are glorious. Low Dissolved Oxygen is an underestimated cause of fish losses, particularly because of its

*synergistic* effects with other toxins like Ammonia. Hydrogen peroxide (USP 3%plain old drug store strength) can be used to increase the dissolved oxygen in the system:

H202 + H20 ----------> 2H20 + 02 Simply use 1/2 to 1 cup per hundred gallons. I prefer, however, to apply peroxide in a spray bottle, squirting it forcefully under the surface of the water into tanks and vats in trouble, I use 60 squirts per 100 gallons. What you will see is the fish will leave the surface, and swim about as if there was no dissolved oxygen deficit. The time for this to occur is approximately one hour. The benefits are seen for a full 4 hours. The hydrogen peroxide to use is drugstore 3% peroxide. It's great in emergencies. If applied directly to the fish, or applied directly to their water in an undiluted form, gill damage could result, so apply it away from the

fish. Doses up to 1 pint per one hundred gallons have been used and fish have survived. One cup of peroxide 3% per thirty gallons harms fish. Heterotrophic bacteria Nitrosomonas, Nitrobacter (and their relatives) all utilize nitrogen for energy. They function in the "Cycle", as discussed later. They require clean water with a balanced pH, and lots of dissolved oxygen (see diagram). As they reduce Ammonia to Nitrite, notice that H+ (Hydrogen) ions are liberated and Oxygen molecules are needed.


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These Hydrogen ions reduce the pH, and if it drops low enough, the bacteria, and your fish, can die. Hence the need for a buffered pH.

Figure - Ammonia reduced to Nitrite - liberating Hydrogen ions and absorbing Oxygen. Nitrate Nitrate is the last chemical product in the cycle, which Algae and plants feed on. Not acutely toxic, it can accumulate in some systems without plants or algae (Simazine treated systems) and cause fin redness, dilated veins in the fins, redmouth lesions, and lethargy. Fish sitting on the bottom may have had too much Nitrate accumulation. Water changes, deployment of plants, or removal of Simazine or other plant inhibitors are all indicated. Nitrates should be reduced to levels below 80 ppm for best results. Nitrate levels OVER 300 ppm are definitely a problem. The first thing I think of when I hear “chronic illness” or “non healing wounds” is high nitrates. Nitrates also contribute to Goldfish flip over disease. To see how Nitrates fit into the overall environmental scheme, please see discussion of the Cyclep23.

• What if there was an almost ubiquitous compound in our fishes' water that could stunt growth?

• What if there was a compound that could slow wound healing to the

point where you become sure your antibiotic therapy is not working?

• What's the next parameter to check just when you're sure your "water's just fine" but none of your small fish ever live more than a few weeks?

Answer: What are NitrAtes? NitrAtes are the final product in the successful reduction of nitrogen by beneficial bacteria; from Ammonia, to Nitrite, to Nitrate.

Algae and plants in the presence of phosphates normally use/eliminate nitrate.

Causes: When are nitrates a problem? In heavily stocked systems that are also heavily fed, the cycle can produce prodigious amounts of NitrAte. The better your filtration, the more NitrAtes can be produced as you feed more and more heavily. M

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In such systems, the growth of brown algae is not sufficient to measurably decrease nitrAte levels. A thick blanket of green sessile algae will measurably decrease nitrate levels. Dense plant growth of the more ornamental varieties such as Hyacinth and Pistia [Water Lettuce] can also assist in the reduction of NitrAte. When Nitrates get very concentrated, they may support the growth of Blue Green algaes that can contribute to certain intoxications and algoses. [Author's note: These blue green algaes are actually pale blue like blue cheese.] High nitrAte accumulations are more toxic under conditions of low oxygen tensions. Part of this is because the NitrAtes can do damage to the fishes red blood cells and to their vascular performance, causing them to be oxygen deprived under otherwise survivable conditions of low oxygen tension. The slightest decrease in the oxygen carrying capacity of the water, or an increased need for oxygen can cause sudden death. Symptoms of chronic high level nitrates:

1. New, small fish added to your collection die off within 2-3 weeks. 2. Lethargy, lack of energy, especially when you're not feeding them. They may

brighten up considerably during feeding times only to become dull afterwards. 3. Slowed growth 4. Dramatically increased susceptibility to disease 5. Very delayed wound healing 6. Redness in the fins and occasionally patches of redness in the body 7. Upon close inspection, fancy goldfish may have dilated blood vessels at the base

of the tail. 8. Large fish are much less susceptible than smaller fish. 9. Sudden death with the very slightest of stresses [catching, handling, injection].

Numbers chronically over 100mg/L are associated with the signs and symptoms I am mentioning above. Methods of detection: Aquarium Pharmaceuticals has a new test kit that does not require test powder. Tetra Labs test kit is the one with which I am more familiar and is very accurate. Special notes concerning high NitrAte levels: Lack of energy is the single most common sign of NitrAte accumulation. Short-bodied goldfish consistently "list" to one side and hang motionless in the water when nitrAtes accumulate. Fish are noticeably improved with a 50+% water change, duly dechlorinated.

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Abdominal swelling 162 Acidity 8 Acriflavine 95,129,183 Aeromonas bacteria 72 Air bladder 48 Air sac 48 Algae control 45 Alkalinity 8 Alkalosis 29 Amikacin 111 Ammonia 9-12, 29 Anatomy of note 46, 125, 171 Anchor Worm 69 Anesthesia 161, 166chart Anorexia 124 Antibiotic injections 86 Argulus 68 Arsenic poisoning 34 Ascorbic Acid 39, 79, 88 Azactam 110 Aztreonam 110 Bacterial infections: 79-86 Bacterial organisms: 72-76 Baytril injection 110 Biopsy 168-169 Bioseeding 25 Black spots 107, 199, 202 Bloater 38,77,81,173, Branchiomyces fungus 93-94 Branchiurians 68-71 Buffers 12 Calcium sulfate 22 Cannibalism 189 Carbon Dioxide 43-44 Carbonic acid 44 Carp Pox virus 96 Cedar poisoning 34 Cefotetan 118 Ceftiofur 118 Ceftriaxone 116 Chemotherapy 109

Chilodonella 51 Chloramine T 90, 107 Chloramphenicol 109 Chlorine Toxicity 31 Closantel 139 Cold Shock 28 Copper 60, 142 Cortisone 28 Costia 51 Crustaceans 35, 68, 138 Cuprimine® 60 Cycle, the 23 Cystic kidneys 82, 162 Cytophaga 28, 73, 145 Dactylogyrus 63-67 Dechlorinator 31 Dexamethasone 28, 119 Diagnostic lab 175 Diflubenzuron 138 Dimilin 138 Dip: Salt 157 Dipschart 158 Dissolved Oxygen 12, 27 Droncit® 155 Dropsy 76 Edwardsiella 144 Egusa, Shuzo 202 Electrocution 31 Enrofloxacin 77, 109, 110 Enteral antibiotics 127 Entubation 123-127 Epistylis 54, 91 Exotoxins 80 Fatty liver 38 Finquel® 166 Fin snips 170 Fish dips 158 Fish lice 68 Flagyl 55, 56 Flashing 106 Flavobacteria 84 Flexobacteria 73 Florfenicol 112 Flukes 63-67 Food and Feeds 38-43

Formaldehyde 134 Formalin 134 Formalin treatment 53, 134 Freckles 202 Fungus 92 Furans 157 Furazone green 157 Furunculosis 89 Gentamicin 111 Gill disease 89 Gill filaments 11, 171 Gill functions 47 Gill scrapes / snips 170 Ground Fault Interrupt 32 Gyrase 138 Gyrodactylus 63-67 Hand feeding 189 Head up, head down 108 Heat Stress 27 Heating Koi 101-104 Hepatic lipidosis 38 Herons 160 Heterotrophic bacteria 13 Hexamita 55 Hydrogen peroxide 13, 135 Hydrogen sulfide 30 Ichthyobodo necatrix 51 Ichthyophthirius multifilis 56-58 Injectables 122 Injections 86, 109, 121 Intestines / gut 173 Iodine 10, 69, 86-87, 159 Isoenzymes 194 Isoflurane 162 Japanese Import Koi 176 Jumping 107 K.H.V. 98-105, 120 Kidney 9, 29, 75-78, 81, 98, 129, 162, 173

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KMnO4: See potassium permanganate Koi behavior 188 Koi Herpes Virus 98-105,120 Koilab 175 KoiResources.com 200 Koi retail 176 Koi shows 185-188 Koi skin 47 Koi teeth 49 Koi winter 190-199 Laboratory testing: See Koilab.comp175 Laying over 108 Lernea 69 Lufenuron 70-71 Lumber (see Arsenicp34) Lymphocystis virus 95 MS-222 166chart Malachite Green 92, 127, 154chart, 158chart, 177 Malathion 137 Mebendazole 139 Melanophore migration 199 Methylene Blue 154, 158 Metronidazole 55-56 Microscopy 167 Mitraspora cyprini 78, 82, 173 Mycobacteria 75 NaCl (see salt) Naxcel® 118 Necropsy 171 Nitrate 14-16, 29 Nitrifiers 23 Nitrite 16, 29 Nitrobacteria (see cycle) Nitrosomonas (see cycle) Nuflor 112 Nuflor scald 114 Nutrition 38-43 Oil of Cloves 161 Oodinium 59

Open mouth Koi 94, 108 Oral cavity 108, 123-125 Organophosphates 136-138 Orogastric tube (see Entubation 123-127) Oxolinic Acid 127chart Oxygen 12, 27, 135 Panolog® 86, 159 Papilloma virus 96 Peroxide 135 PH 17-18, 29 PH Pill 18-20 Physostome (stome) 173 Pinecone 76 Plants 43-44 Plaster of Paris 21 Poisoning, arsenic 34 Poisoning, cedar 34 Potassium permanganate 143-153 Praziquantel 155 Program® 70-71 Pseudomonas 74 Quarantine 34-36 Rapid Cycle 24-26 Resources 200-202 Retail health flow chart 184 Retail losses 176 Rhabdovirus carpio 97 Rocephin 116 Running the gut 174 S.V.C. 97 Salt 128-133 Salt Dip 157 Salting 58, 78, 133 Saprolegnia fungus 92 Scoliosis 37 Sepsis 80, 90, 173 Septicemia 89 Shimi 202 Shock 28 Shotgun treatment 165 Showing Koi 185-188 Skin 47

Skin biopsy 168-169 Slime coat 10, 47-48 Sodium chloride (see salt) Spitting 108 Split fin 107 Spring Viremia of Carp 97 Stome 48-49, 173pic Stress 9, 27, 58, 77, 79, 108, 119, 124, 176, 181, 189, 193 Sudden deaths 182 Supaverm 139-141 Supercooling 195 Surgery 161-165 Suture 164 Swabs 86 Swim bladder 48 Swollen gills 107 Symptoms 106-108 Tail rot 180 Teeth 49 The Cycle 23 Topical treatments 86, 159 Trematodes 63-67 Trichlorfon 137 Trichodina 62 Tricide Neo 159 Trimethoprim Sulfa 157 Tris-EDTA 159 Tuberculosis 75 Ulcers 89 Ultraviolet / UV 46 Viral diseases 95 Vitamin C (see ascorbic acid) Wasting away 106 Water baths 127, 154chart Weighing 109 White eye 106 White spot 56-58 Winterizing 190-199 Wound swabs 86 Zeolites 12 Zoonoses 183

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