Kitchen Aid K45 Service Manual (For Hobart Made Vintage Mixers)

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    SERVICE INSTRUCTION MANUALKITCHENAID ELECTRIC HOUSEWARES

    K5-A FOOD PREPARER K-45 FOO D PREPARER

    Form4177192 (12454) 5-77

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    IN TRODUCTIONThe models K-45 and K5A K itchenAid mixers are well designed and carefully built units .Normally th ey will give continual use year after year without requiring service attention.Careful records have been maintained over a period of years to determine an y troubles thatmight possibly develop. An effort has been made in preparation of this manual to cover allpossible trouble.Parts an d authorized service are available through your nearest Hobart outlet . Consult theyellow pages of the local telephone directory under the heading "Restaurant Equipment ."

    Why only one beater?

    Long ago , KitchenAidengineers discoveredth at the secret to re allyef f ic ient m ixing was totravel a single beaterclockwise around thebowl while rotating itcounterclockwise. Ap-propriately , we call itplanetary action. Thesame action used incommercial bakerymixers. It assures youfaster , more thoroughblending of ingredients, perfect results with fastc leanup , too. An d onlyK it chenAid has it.

    Planetary Action

    Diagram above showsthe complete mixingcoverage of the bowlmade by the path of thebeater as i t makesa complete rotationcycle . This is howKitchenA id achievesthe most uniform mix-in g act ion without tu rn-ing the bowl.

    Printed in U.S.A.

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    KITC H EN A ID M O DELS K-4 5 A N D K5A FOOD PREPARERS

    IN D E X

    SECTIO N P A G E

    1 Disassemblyof G ear Case and Planetary2 Dis assembly of Motor andControl U nit

    .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5. . .... . . ... . . 7

    3 Repairs to M otor and Control U nit4 Repairs to Gear Case and Planetary5 Repairs toM odel K-45 Pedesta l ..6 A djus tmen t of Control U nit . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . ..7 Repairs to M odel K -5A Bow l Lift Assembly .. . ... . .8 Service Problem s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    . 10

    . 15

    . 19

    . 20

    . 22

    . 25

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    BEATERThe beater should fit free ly on the beater shaft

    located in the planetary. Power is tr ansmit tedfr om the motor to the center gear and bevel gearasse mbly by means of the worm gear. The centergear and bevel gear asse mbly engages the beaterp inion , located in the planetary, to turn the beatershaft. The a t tachme n t hub bevel gear also mesheswit h the center gear and bevel gear assembly to trans mit pow er when vario us at tachments arebeing used.

    LUBRICATIONUnder normal service condit ions the m ixer will

    n o t require lubrication for many years. The gearcase is packed with an ample supply of specialgrease which lubri cates all the gears and shafts .The rear motor bearing and the beater shaft arethe oilless ty pe. For additional security the beatershaft bearing is fed oil by a saturated wick

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    reservoir and the rear motor bearing by a feltwasher. The front motor bearing is a ba ll bearing.

    When a m ixer is subjecte d to abnorm all y sever eusage, it is advisable to ch ec k the planetary and itsinternal gear for the proper amount of lu brication.To remove the planetary first pry off the drip cu p.Remove the groov-pin from the end of the centershaft and pry off the complete planetary , us ingtw o screwdrivers , one on each side.

    Check that the planetary beater shaft is freerunning. Place a few drops of light o r mediumweight oil on the bea ter shaft and wipe off theexcess. Wipe about a teaspoonfu l of medium weight grease on th e inside of th e planetaryinternal gear teeth . Make certain that the greasefills the teeth witha little excess all around the topedge. Reassemble the planetary to the m ix er aspreviously removed.

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    MODELS K45 AND K 5 ~ A KITCHENAID MIXERSSECTION 1DISASSEMBLY OF GEAR CASE AND PLANETARY

    A. The Models K45 and K5-A KitchenAid mixers have thesame motors and control parts and the gears in th e gear caseare alike with one exception. Planetary parts are all the same.Gearing and motor instructions are for both machines in onesection and any differences will be pointed out. The ModelK5-A has an entirely different bowl and bowl lift. On theModel K5-A the bowl is raised and lowered and on the ModelK45 the entire head is lifted. The bowl , column, base andbowl lift of the K5-A are covered separately in section 7.B. Before repairs are attempted on the Models K45 andK5-A KitchenAid mixers, a watt test should be made. Tomake the test , plug the wattmeter into the proper voltage.Plug th e cord from th e mixer into the wattmeter. Turn onthe current and run the mixer. If the dial shows 105 to 135watts, going from 1st to high speed , the mixer is in goodcondition. If the reading is 175 to 400 watts, there is trouble.To find the trouble , check each part of the motor as it isremoved. Use an ohmmeter to check individual parts.

    g1C. To remove th e planetary, remove the drip cup Q('Fig.1 . The drip cup fits the gear case bottom cover Q.1') tightlyand must be started of f the cover by tappin i> \t. Use ascrewdriver on the upper edge of drip cup and tap screwdriver gently to remove the drip cup. ,!\.D. Remove the groove pin (Y1,)that holds the p l a n e t a r y ~ )to the vertical center shaft (,Y-3). With pin out, the planetarycan be pried off the s h a f t the base with cloths and withtwo screwdrivers, pry th e planetary down and of f the shaft.

    E. Remove the #6-32 x 3/8" oval head screw (off the end cover ( Unscrew and remove the two #6-32 x3/16" binding head sere s (r) that hold the trim band (5)to the gear case and m to r housing (1 ). With screws out,remove the trim band .

    re..l: to? 5

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    FIG. 1

    6

    2122 ---.o.::=--..""i=;,..

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    G. To remove the bottom cover (24) from the gear case andmotor housing unscrew and remove the five special screws(28). These screws hold the internal gear (27) to the gearcase. Unscrew and remove the four :11:10-24 x 1" fillister headscrews (52) from bottom cover. With a screwdriver on eachside, pry off the cover. The transmission gears will come outwith the cover and the cord and plug will remain with thegear case and motor housing.

    H. Remove the attachment hub bevel gear (14). This gearcan be removed by simply pulling it ou t of the attachmenthub . It will clear the worm on the motor shaft. Due to theslow speed of this gear there should be no trouble with theshaft galling and it should be easy to remove.I. Clean out the gear case. Remove as much of the grease aspossible. The gear case ~ be thoroughly cleaned ~ themotor has been removed. \ J~ ~ 0 1 } ( . . ~ ~ ~ fi{ft'l

    SECTION 2DISASSEMBLY OF MOTOR AND CONTROL UNIT

    26

    39 38

    59 60 61 62-FIG. 2

    656463

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    A. Start disassembly of th e co ntrol unit by re mov ing th egear case cover baffle (14 , Fig. 2). Unscr ew the three wireconnectors (5 7) and separa te all th e wires. Unlo ck th e tw olo ck nuts (59) and unscrew th e two adjustin g screws (62).U nh o ok the contro l plate spring (3 ) and let it res t on th eswitch bracket and ca m plate (I 0). Th e control pla te can nowbe remov ed along w it h the capa citor(41 ).

    B. The resis tor (53) is assembled on the motor a t the top .The red wires are on the right side and the yellow wires onthe left . To remove the re sistor , take out the two screws (56),and remove the resistor. The washers (55) will remain in theresisto r.

    C. With two screwdrivers, pry off the governor asse mbl y(58) . Remove the governor drive stud (26) a nd lay it awa y soit will not be lost .

    D. Rem ove the switch (7) , sw it ch bracket and ca m plate ( I 0)an d sw it ch lever (4 ). To remove th e switch asse mbly,disconnect the yellow and gree n wires. Take ou t the tw oscrews (8) and lock washers (9) . Take ou t the pivot screw(I )and tension was her (2) . Slide th e switch con tro l link (5) offthe stu d on end of the switch lever (4) and re move the switc hand its com ponent parts.

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    E. The sp eed control link (13) ca n n o w be re mov ed bypulling it out at the rear of the housing. Before pullingit out ,remove the flat spring (15) , then pul l out the switch controllink .

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    F. Unscrew and rem ove the two # 10-2 4 nuts (37) , thenrem ove the bearin g bracke t (34) and the baffle pla te (30) .Als o re move the springs (39) and washers (38) . Kee p thesesp rin gs and washers with the baff le plate and bea ring bracket.

    G. Uns crew the two bru sh ho lder sc rew caps (50) andre move thebrushes and springs (4 5). Vi ewing from therea r ,m ark the brushes right and le ft and also th e topof th e brush ,just as it was rem oved fro m th em otor.

    H. T he arm ature (14) can now be removed. Pull the ar m atu re straight back through the stator.

    I. Rem ove the cord an d plug. Uns crew the wire co nn ecto r(5 7) from the w hite cord lea d and th e whi te sta tor lea d. Rem ov e th e conn ec tor fr om bla ck co rd lead and black sta torlead .

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    J . W ith long nose pli ers , pull off th e wir e clip from th e righthand brush hold e r. Re move th e two # 10- 2 4 nuts (4 2) a ndpull ou t th e stat or (48 ) . To pull the sta to r o ut , r eac h in t omotor hous ing a nd grasp the stato r a t rea r of Housin g a ndpull fo rward .

    K . To remove the brush hold e rs (46) , it will be neces sarytounscrew and re m ove th e two stator sc re ws ( 16) and spacers(17) . Under th e st atorsc rew s are the# I 0-24x I / 4" cup pointse t screws (43) . W ith a sm all sc rewdr iver , unscre w the se tscrew s (43) a few turns and pu ll out thebrush holders .

    L. Wash ou t the gear cas e with a goo d solvent and wip e i tdry with a clean dry cloth . Cl ea n out the motor housing wit ha cloth dampened with solve n t and wip e itdry with a cleanc lo th .

    SE C T IO N 3REPAIRS TOMOTOR A N D CONTROL UNIT

    A. Clean the brush holders (46 , F ig . 2)w it h so lvent and wip ethem dr y with a c le an dry cloth . Insta ll brush hold ers in hous ing so that brushes will ride th e co mmuta tor squarely .Push brush holders in 5/32 " from outside ofhousing thenlo ck in place with the #10-24 cup point se t screw s (43) . Clipthe green wire to th e left h and holder .

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    B. Test the stator (18) with an ohmmeter. Set the ohmmeteron the 1X scale and set it at "0". In upper coil, connect oneof the ohmmeter leads to the red wire and the other lead tothe black wire from the upper coil. If the ohmmeter shows alow resistance reading the coil is good. Check the other coilthe same way. If the needle on ohmmeter deflected to zeroor if there was no deflection, the coil is bad and stator mustbe replaced.

    C. Place the two spacers (17) on the stator sc rews (16) . Withred wire of stator to the rear start the stator on the twoscrews (16) and onto the ribs of the housing. Pu sh it back asfar as it will go, then place a #10-32 nut (42) on each screw(16). Tighten both nuts.

    D. Check the cord and plug (63). I f it is drying and cracking,replace it. Skin the leads back 6" from end of cord and placea black insulator on each lead. Push leads from bottom ofhousing, up past the coil of the stator. Place black lead fromcord with black lead from stator. Lock in place with wireconnector (57). Connect white cord lead with white statorlead and connect with wire connector (57). Tuck these wiresbetween stator and housing. See wiring diagram, Fig. 3.

    E. Check the switch (7) with an ohmmeter. Connect theohmmeter leads to the green and yellow switch leads . Setohmmeter on the 1 X range. Snap switch on and off severaltimes for a good test. If the needle deflects each time theswitch is turned on, it is in good condition and can still beused.

    I I

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    F . Place th e sp eed control connecting link (13) in positionwith the ben t end up toward topof housing. Lay th e switchbracket an d ca m plate (1 0) on the housing and screw in thetwo screws (8) with lock washers (9). Put the con t ro l link(13) on the stud in e nd of switch lever (4 ). Place th e switchco ntrol l ink on stud near knob of switch lever. Place spring( 15) und er th e con t ro l link ( 13) so that en ds of spring are upand rest aga in st the gear case bosses. This spr ing will providepressure to hold the control li nk (13) on the sw itch lever (4).

    G. Check the armature on a growler or take th e arm ature toa n elect ric motor repair shop and let th em tes t it . If it is notin good con dition , replace it with a new one. If the oldar matur e is equipped with a thrust ball bea ring an d it is stillgo o d, pull it offth e shaft w it h a gear puller. Slide the washe ron the co mmutator end ofth e new armature . Place the bal lbear in g on th e shaft with open side toward endof shaft. Sea tit with a sleeve andhammer. Place other washeron op en sideof bearing. If th e old arm a tu re is eq uip p ed with a thrustsleeve bearing , th e comp le te bearing as sembly (2 0 , 21, 22,23)sh o uld be re placed if necessa ry .

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    GREEN

    YELLOW

    Adjus t thi s sc rew to 175 to 180 RPM o f P13netaryo n :-- o . 6 speed after No . 1 has lxc n adjus ted.

    FIG .3

    Connects at bottomWire

    CORDANDPLUG

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    H. Check th e ventilating fan. Straighte n the blades if theyare bent. Move the was hers (27), (2 8), (29) from th e oldarmature to the fan end of the new one. Oil th e worm andshaft and install th e armature in the housing.

    I. Place th e springs (39) on th e stator screws (16). Place thewashers (38) on the sc rew (1 6 ) nex t to the springs . Place t hebaffle plate (30) on th e studs an d p ush it back on the ribs ofth e housing.

    J. Check th e bearing (3 3, Fig. 2) in th e bearing bracket (34) .To replace the bearing, re m ove the four #4-40 x 1 8" roundhead sc rew s (32) and lift off the bea ring retainer (31 ). Takeou t the old bearing . Place new bearing in cavity with squarenotch tow ard the top of the bracket. Place the reta iner (31)on the bearing so that the tongue fits into the square notch,then sc re w in the four screws (32). Soak the felt washer (35)in bearing cap (36) w it h oil.

    K. Install the bearin g bracket (34). Run the red and greenleads th rough the tunne l at top of bracket. Start bracket ontoth e tw o stator screws ( 16 ) . Pus h the bracke t back until i t isstopped by the speed contro l link (13). Push the link dow nto clear thebracket , then push it back un til stator sc re ws ar ethrough the bracket . S tar t the two nuts (37) on the statorscrews and turn them on until bearin g bracket is seated .

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    L. cnecK w e armature ror ena play. Wltll we mrust oeanngassembly seated properly and proper amount of spacingwashers at th e rear, th ere should be only a perceptibleamount of end play to assure free operation of the armature.If there is too much end play, remove it by adding a thinwasher, such as (29). To do this, remove the bearing brac ket(34) and add th e washer to the armature shaft , then returnthe bearing bracket.

    M. If th e old brushes are more than 5/ 16" long, assemblethem in the brush holders. From the back of the unit putbrush marked "r ight" in right side brush holder , be sure theside marked "up" is at th e top . Push brush in and lock it inplace wi th a brush holder screw cap (50). Place left handbrush in the mixer in th e same way.

    N. Check the resistor (53). Tes t it with an ohmmeter. Set theohmmeter on the 1 X range and adjust it to zero. Connect theohmmeter leads to the red and yellow resistor leads. Ifresistor is good, there will be a reading of 180 ohms.Disconnect one ohmmeter lead and connect it to the upperblack lead of the resistor. If the res istor is good there will bea reading of 90 ohms. If needle does not deflect the resistor isdefective and must be replaced.

    0. To replace the resistor. Place the washers (55) in screwholes in resistor. Place the two screws (56) in screw holes .Hold resistor in place on the bearing bracket and screw in thetwo screws (56). These screws must be tight but do nottighten enough to crack the porcelain.

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    P. If the spring in the governor is rusty, replace the governorassembly (58). Place the governor drive stud (26) in thearmature shaft. With drive stud at top of shaft, place thegovernor on the shaft with the keyway up. Push the governoronto the shaft as far as it will go.CAUTION: Do not drive against the ball as this will causedamage.

    Q. Put a new capacitor (41) in the unit. Lay it over theresistor and back as far as it will go. Be sure the red wire is tothe right, viewing from back of mixer.

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    R. Place a new control plate (61, Fig. 2) on the bearingbracket (34) with adjusting screws (62) at the top. Turn inthe screws until about 3/8" of the screw remains. Have bothscrews turned in evenly so the other P.nd of the control platerests squarely on the ext ensions of the bearing bracket.

    S. With long nose pliers, hook the control plate spring to thehook on the bottom part of the control plate.

    T. Lay the four red wires together, side by side and turn on awire connector (57). Lay the yellow wires together and alsoconnect with connector (57). Connect the two black wires,one fro m resistor and the other from the control plate, andlo ck them in place with connector ( 40). Use a connector (40)to connect the two green wires.NOTE: Leave the control unit. It is now ready for timing buta better job can be done when mixer is completelyassembled.

    SECTION 4REPAIRS TO GEAR CASE AND PLANETARYA. Examine the brass bearings in the attachment hub and theroof of the gear case. These bearings are cast in the housing.If th ey are worn badly, the entire housing must be replaced.However, shafts turn slowly in these bearings and thebearings have a long life.

    B. Examine the attachment hub (23 tooth) bevel gear (14,Fig. 1 . If it shows wear in the teeth , it should be replaced.To replace the bevel gear, coat the shaft with a film of goodoil. Push it into the attachment hub bearing from inside thegear case. It does not have a washer so push it in as far as itwill go.

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    C. With a Phillip screwdriver remov e the th ree 4t 10 -2 4 x7 / 16" Ph ill ips fillister head screws and lock was he r assemblies( 10) and lift out th e worm gear brack et an d bearingan d pinassem bly (9).

    D. With a twisting acti on , re move the cen te r gear (62T) ,b evel gear (19T) (15) and ver tical center shaft (13) as anasse mbly . It will not be necessary to remove the "0 " ring(59), especially if i t is w et with oil and a twisting actio n used.

    E. Che ck the lo w er center bearing fo r wear . Also check theshaft (13) where it rides in the bearing. This is an oi llessbear ing and should be in good conditi on. If it is worn, thegear case bottom cover will hav e to be replaced since th ebearing is an in tegral part.

    F . If the attachment hub bevel ge ar ( 14) was re placed, thenth e bevel gear on the cen ter gear and bevel gear assembly (15)m ust also be re placed. To replace this assembly, driv e ou tthegroove pin (16) and pull thegear assembly of f theshaf t (13) .

    G. Place a new ge ar asse mbly (15) on th e shaft wit h thebevel pinion ( 19T) facing the top of the shaft. Place thegroove pin (16) in be vel gear (with holes lined up) and driveit in flush on oneside. Place the same washer (17) or (18) onshaft next to the cente r gear (62T ).

    H. Oil the shaft and the "0" ring (5 9) . Sta r t the "0"ringend of theshaf t down th rough the lo w er center bearing andpush it dow n w ith a tw isting action so "0 " ring will no t beda m age d. Push it dow n unti l thewasher (17) or (18) res ts onthebearing (19).

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    I. Che ck the (23T) worm ge ar (7 ) and the shaft and ( 11 T)pin io n (11 ). To replace th ese tw o gears, drive out the gr oo vepin (1 2). Make a no te of positions of fib er wash ers (6) and(8) . They will be inst al le d th e sam e way w ith ne w gears.From the top of the w orm gear b racket (9 ), drive out the shaft and pin io n (11 ).NOTE: T he shaft an d pinio n ( 11) has 11 tee th on the K45mix e r. This p ar t on the Mod el KS-A has 10 te eth .

    J. Start a new (11 T) shaft an d pin ion (11) from bottom of bracket. Befo re the shaft emerge s fro m lo w er bearing , placeth e was he r (8) on bearing and start shaft in to the wash er.Hold a newworm ge ar (7 ) nex t to was her and pu sh shaft intogear. Befo re shaft em erge s fro m ge ar, place was her (6 ) inplace and push shaft thro ugh wash er an d in to the upp erbe aring. Line up th e pin ho le s and drive in th e pin ( 12 ).

    K. Place the worm ge ar as se mbly an d bearing bracketon th egear case bottom cove r (21) so th a t the tw o dowels will fitin to the ba se of the be aring bracket. Place the th ree sc rewand lock was her as semblies (10) in the hole s an d screw them in to the bottomcover. Be su re th ese sc rew s are tig ht. L. Che ck the la tc h, link and lever as sem bl y (5 2). There should be no wear or troub le w it h th is as sembly .

    M. Use Shell Darina No. 2 lubricant when filling th e gear case. This is av ailab le through yourneares t authoriz ed H obartoutle t. Try to keep th e bear in g in roofof gear case open , itwill help whenassembl ing the bottom cove r and the gear .

    N. Clean the gask et su rfa ce of the gear case. Put a thin coatof Perm ate x #2 on the surfa ce. Put another coat on th egas ket surface of the bottom cov er . Place the gas ket (20) onth e bottom cover , over the do wel and press it down so it willsta y in posit io n.

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    0. Place the gear case cover baffl e (1 4 , Fig. 2) in positio nunder switch (7) at switch end of th emotor housing. P u t asmall dab of grease in the baffle to hold it in p lace.

    '

    P. Hold the bottom co ver (21, Fig . I) in position over thegear case and motor housing (I ) and s tar t joining the tw otogeth er. Sta rt th e shaf t (13) into the upper bearing andslowly push th e parts together. As soon as parts start to jo in ,place the cord relief (63 , Fig . 2) in the slo t in the bo ttomcove r , then push th e cover and housing togeth er.

    Q. With bottom co ver (21) and gea r case and motor housingtogether, screw in th e four #I 0-24 x I" fillister head screws(50) evenly and tightly . Th en place th e internal gear (24) inplace at fron t of th e bottom cover. Line up the notches inthe internal gear with the fiv e screw holes in the bottomcover and tu rn in the five sp ecial screws (25) . Turn th en inev enly and tightly .

    R. Fill the teeth ofthe internal gear (24) with Sh ell DarinaNo. 2 lu bri cant. Use enough grease so that it will spill over atthe top of the gear.

    S. Ch ec k th e co ndition of the planetary. If there is any playin the agi tator shaft (22) and the bear in g (not show n),rep lace the planetary and the shaft . The bearing is an integralpart of the pla netary. Lift off the pinion ( 4 7). Take ou t th epin (33) and rem ove the wash e r (43) or (44). Pull out th eagit ator shaft.

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    T. The agitator shaft (32) is complete as an assembly. Oil theshaft and push it up into the bearing as far as it will go. Placethe washer (43) or (44) on shaft. Place the pin (33) throughthe shaft. Set the pinion gear ( 45) on shaft and straddle thepin (33). Place retaining washer ( 4 7) on pinion and screw theassembly to the shaft with the # 10-32 x 5I16" flat head screw(46).U. Be sure the planetary has a good supply of grease and thatthe wicking (27) and the clip (26) are in good condition. UseShell Darina No. 2 lubricant.

    V. Place the washers (17) on the vertical shaft (13) . Place theplanetary on the shaft and push it up to the washers. Line upthe holes in planetary and shaft and drive in the groove pin(19). Place the drip cup (34) on the gear case . Use care so"0 " ring will not be damaged.

    W. Check the adjusting screw ( 48). This screw is slotted andhas a nylon insert. As it is screwed in, the threads are cut inthe nylon and hold the screw tight. Replace this screw if it isloose in the threads.

    SECTION 5REPAIRS TO K45 PEDESTAL

    A. Check the hinge pin ( 42, Fig. 1 . If it is galled fromfailure to loosen the set screw (49), replace it. Loosen the setscrew so that it will clear the hinge pin. Place the new hingepin in the pedestal (41) but do no t drive it in .

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    B. Check the rubber feet (40). If they are worn or softenedfrom grease, replace them. Twist the old feet out. Clean theholes with solvent and dry them with clean cloth. Oil orgrease the part of the foot that will go into the hole and twis tthe new feet in. Be sure all feet are in the same amount .

    C. If th e bowl screw cap ( 40) has worn out, replace it. Toremove the old cap , take out the three oll: 10-24 x 1 2" flathead screws (39) and lift ou t the old cap. Place new cap inplace and screw it down tight with the three screws (39).

    D. Place the gear case and motor housing (1) on the pedestal.Line up the holes for the hinge pin (44) and drive it in so thatan equal amount of the pin extends on each side of thepedestal.

    E. Turn the mixer upside down on padding for it to rest on.With a screwdriver, reach up inside pedestal and tighten thecup point set screw (51) .

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    SECTION 6ADJUSTMENT OF CONTROL UNITA. After installing new parts in the control unit , the controlplate (2, Fig. 2) must be adjusted so that all speeds will bethe same as they were when the mixer was new.B. Make sure that all of the wire leads are properlyconnected and that they are locked together firmly with thewire connectors ( 10). Plug the cord into a receptacle havingthe proper voltage.

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    C. To adjust the sp ee ds, move the switch lever ( 45) to firstspeed. This may ormay notstar t the m otor . If motor did notstar t , turn out the two adjusting screw s (1) evenly and stopwhen planetary turns abo ut 60 revolutio ns per minu te . Totest th e speed, hold a finger of the right hand at theplanetary. Let beater shaft (3 5, Fig. 1) hit finger. Cou nt thenumber of ti m es the finger is touched in 5 or 10 seconds.Adjust the tw o sc rews until the shaf t touches th e finger onceev ery second or 60 revolutions per minute.

    D. When proper speed has bee n set , lock th e tw o lock nuts(4, Fig. 2) and check the sp eed again. If a small co rrec ti o nmust be made, make it without loo senin g t he lo ck nut. Testspeeds as before and when correct , it will not be necessa ry todisturb thelock nuts ( 4 ).

    E. Move the sw itch lever to speed number 6. At this setti ng ,the planetary must turn 180 revolutions per m in ute. Checkthe speed as was done fo r 1st speed. The planeta ry shouldtouch y ou r finger 15 ti mes in 5 seconds. If it to uches thefinger less than that , turnin the adjusting screw at bottom of the cont ro l plate . Check the revolutions again and kee padjusting the screw at the bottom unti l th e right speed isre ached. There is no need for locking this screw.

    F. Try all speeds from '*' 1 to '*' 10. If '*' 1 and '*'6 speeds areproperly adjusted , the other speeds shou ld automatically becorrect . If there is a definite change in speed between '*'8 and'*' 10 the cont ro l unit is correctly adjusted.

    G. Place tr im band (5 , Fig. 1) on the gear case and motorhousing and w ith the two '*'6-32 x 3/16" binding head screws(63), fasten it to the end of the housing. Tuck in all the wireleads and place theend cover onend of machine and secureitwith the '*'6-32 x 3/8" oval head screw (65) .

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    ~ - 1 5

    22

    D - -t 7J - - - 16

    H. With the end cover (64) on the machine, test the speedsagain to be sure no change took place in the control plate.With mixer working perfectly, place bowl (38) on the bowlscrew cap (40). Place flat beater (32) on the agitator shaft(35). Lower the head so beater is at bottom of bowl. Thereshould be approximately 1 16" clearance between bowl andbeater. If beater is too close to bowl, turn in the adjustingscrew (50) and out if it is too far away. Mixer is now readyfor operation.

    SECTION 7REPAIRS TO MODEL KS-A BOWL LIFT ASSEMBLY

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    FIG. 4

    A. The Models K45 and KS-A KitchenAid mixers havedifferent types of bowls and are different in size. The K45bowl is held stationary by mechanical means at bottom ofthe pedestal, whereas the KS-A bowl slides up and down ongibs on the front of the pedestal. On the Model KS-A, thegear case and motor housing is stationary making it necessaryto move the bowl.

    B. Should the mixer be tipped over or knocked of f the tableor counter and the bowl support assembly (14, Fig. 4) will bebroken. To repair, it is necessary to replace the bowl support.

    C. To replace the bowl support (14), remove the four5I16" -18 x 3I4" round head screws (12) and lift the gear caseand motor housing off the column (13).

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    D. With th e bowl lift assembly on the bench, lay it on itsback and remove the four 5/16"-18 x 3/4" round head screwsand lock washer assemblies (15) and lift the column (13) offthe base (18).

    E. With a 7/ 16" socket wrench on a short extension, removethe 1 4" -28 castle nut (8) and take out the spring (7), thewasher (6) and the "V " washer (5). Take out cotter pin (2)and remove the bowl lift arm (3). Unscrew and remove thetwo # 10-24 x 1 2" flat head screws (21) and pull ou t thebowl lift bracket (20). With the bracket out, slide th e bowlsupport (14) down and off th e column (13).NOTE: On late model K5-A mixers , the 1 4"-2 8 castle nu t(8, Fig. 4) and cotter pin ( 4) have been replaced with a1/4"-28 Elastic nut. Tl1is nut holds tight without the use of acotter pin.

    F. Examine the bowl lift arm (1, Fig. 4). This part is made ofiron and is held on the bowl lift handle with a tap ered pin(1 0). If th e arm is cracked at the pin hole, replace it . If thereis any fault in the column (13) replace it at th e same time.

    G. To install a new bowl lift arm, drive ou t the taper pin(1 0). Drive from the small end of the pin. With pin out, pullout the bowl lift handle ( 11 ). The bowl lift arm can now beremoved along with the bowl lift rod (3).

    H. Place the bowl lift rod (3) in the hole in the arm (1 ) sothat the rod will rest in th e rounded part of the arm. Placethe cotter key in the rod and spread the key to hold it in therod.

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    I. Hold the bowl lift arm (1) with large end of tapered holeup . Start bowl lift handle into the arm . Hold handle so it ispointing down. Push it all the way through the arm and intothe bearing hole in the column . Place small end of taperedpin ( 10) in the arm and drive it through th e lift handle. Besure the pin is very tight.

    J. Slide the new bowl support assembly (14) on the column(13). Place the bowl lift bracket (20) in place through thesupport and screw in the two :JI:l0-24 x 1/2" flat head screws(21 ). These screws must be very tight. Hold the support andguide th e lift rod (3) into the hole in the bracket (20). Withrod extended through the bracket, place the "V" washer (5)on the rod with the point of the "V" down toward base ofmachine. Then place washer (6) on the "V " washer, thespring (7) and the castle nut (8). Turn the castle nu t down sothat the tension will be great enough to snap the rod (3) intothe arm ( 1) and hold it there.

    K. Place the base ( 18) on the bottom of the column ( 13) andscrew in the four 5 /16" -18 x 3I4" round head screws andlock washers (15). Be sure these screws are very tight toprevent shaking loose.

    L. If the base feet (17) are worn, replace them. To replacethe feet, unscrew the :JI:8-32 x 1 2" round head screws (16)and remove the old feet. Place the screws in the new feet andscrew the feet to the base. Do not tighten so much as to pushscrew through the rubber.

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    M. The bowl spring latch (22) must be installed to completethe repairs to the bowl support (14). The function of thislatch is to hold down the rear of the bowl. Hold latch withbent spring and insert the two 41:10-24 x 1/4" round headscrews into the column and turn the screws in tight.

    N. Place the gear case and motor housing on the column (13)and screw in the four 5/16"-18 x 3/4" round head screws(12). These screws must be tight. Mixer is now ready foroperation.

    0. To mount the bowl (59) on the support (14), hold thebowl with bowl latch button to the rear. Push button underthe bowl latch spring, then set ears of bowl down on thelocating pins (30). Do not mount bowl on pins first and t ~ e nsnap button down on the latch. This will break the spnnglatch.

    SECTION 8SERVICE PROBLEMSTroubleshooting the KS-A Bowl Lift AssemblyA. If the beater rubs the bottom of the bowl, it can becorrected by shimming up the motor housing. There shouldbe 1I16" clearance between bottom of bowl and end of thebeater. This can be done by using washers 1 16" thick or bymaking a shim to fit all around the top of the column. Besure the four screws (12) are tight when housing is placedback on the column.B. Too much clearance between bowl and beater. In this caseremove any shims or gaskets that may be found under themotor and gear housing. This will allow the beater to movecloser to the bottom. If too much shim was removed, addenough to give 1 16" clearance between bowl and beater.

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    Trouble Possible Cause RemedyBEATER STRIKES BOWL OR Adjusting screw at rear of pedestal not Turn the adjust ing screw sligh tty to rightTOO MUCH CLEARANCE properly se t. or left to ad just clearance. Clearance shoube 1/16 inch.

    Steel plate on tongue of gear case and Driv e out the hinge pin at taching the gearmotor frame loose. case and motor frame to the pedestal.Separate them. Check the rivets holdingthe steel plate. If loose, support the flatheads of the rivets on a steel block andpeen the other ends.PLANETARY TURNS BUT Pinion gear drive pin broken. Remov e planetary and take of f the pinionBEATER DOES NOT gear. Replace the drive pin.REVOLVEMIXER RUNS WITH RASPY, Gear case cover internal gear teeth Remove the planetary and gear case cover.BUMPY NOISE AT worn or broken. The complete gear case cover assembly muPLANETARY be replaced.MIXER RUNS WITH Faulty governor. Replace governor.BAD VIBRATION ANDRUMBLING NOISEMIXER RUNS ON Dirty contacts. Clean the contacts as shown in Figure 5.LOW SPEED BUT HASNO POWER Bad electrical connections. Check the connections to the contr olplate. Repair any loose connections.

    I f the mixer still has no power after Replace the control plate assembly.cleaning the contacts and checking theconnections, the contacts are faulty.MIXER HAS NO POWER Low speed adjustment improperly set. Remove end cover and plug in cord. TheON LOW SPEED BUT planetary should revolve at about 60 RPMOK ON HIGH at the No. 1 position. To adjust, turn inthe control plate adjusting sc rews anequal amount.

    Faulty governor . Turn the switch knob to No . 10 positionand hold out the control plate as far aspossible. Turn the knob to OFF and ob-serve the governor as it recedes when thearmature slows down. The outer platemu st move in smoothly, wi thout sticking,until almost touching middle plate. If gov -ernor is faulty, replace with new one.MIXER RUNS ONLY ON Control plate spring unhooked. Remove trim and end cover and checkHIGH SPEED control plate spring. I f unhooked, attachto top of the control plate and squeezethe sp ring end.

    Welded contacts. Observe operations of control plate con-tacts when switch knob is turned fromhigh to low speed. If contac ts don 't sepa-rate, contacts are welded. Replace thecontrol plate assembly.Short-circuited condenser. Disconnect one yellow condenser leadand turn switch knob to No . 1 position.

    If mixer jumps to high speed when looselead is touched to other leads, the con-denser is shorted and should be replaced.

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    TroubleMIXER RUNS WITH JERKYCLATTERING NOISE ONLOW SPEED

    LOUD RUMBLING NOISE

    MIXER RUNS BUT WILLNOT COME UP TO HIGHSPEED. HAS POWER BUTLABORS AND USESEXCESSIVE WATTS

    MIXER WILL NOTSHUT OFF WITHSWITCH KNOBSWITCH KNOB CLICKS BUTMIXER WILL NOT RUNOR BUZZ

    ELECTRICAL SHOCK TOOPERATOR

    IXER WILL NOT RUN ALHOUGH SWITCH CLICKSAND MOTOR BUZZES

    28

    Possible CauseLoose connection from center top ofresistor to control plate (two blackleads) .Tight bearing.

    Ball in end of armature shaft wornor flat .Worn thrust ball bearing.

    Tight bearing if no smoke is apparent.

    Burned out armature if rriixer smokes.Toggle switch not correctly adjustedwith control link and cam assembly.

    Open electrical circuit.

    Bare lead touching inside of housing.

    Frozen bearing.

    RemedyCheck this connection to make certain itis not loose.

    First check the bearing in the planetarybeater shaft. If the bearing can be easilymoved with a back-and-forth twistingeffort, it is satisfactory. If it binds, re-move the planetary and recheck themixer. If the mixer still uses excessivewatts, it must be disassem bled and theother bearings checked.Disassemble the motor and replace theball .Remove the gears from the gear caseand the armature from the motor housing, then replace the thrust ball bearing.First check the bearing in the planetarybeater shaft. If the bearing can be easilymoved with a back-and-forth twistingeffort, it is satisfactory. If it binds, remove the planetary and recheck themixer. If the mixer still uses excessivewatts, it must be disassembled and theother bearings checked.Disassemble the motor and replace thearmature assembly.Remove trim and turn the switch hexnuts until toggle switch arm properlyengages point on control cam.

    Progressively disassemble the speed control mechanism and motor and performthe following checks until the open circuit is found:Faulty plug.Faulty attachment cord .Bad connection in speed control mechanism.Faulty speed control plate.Bad connection to toggle switch.Wire lead clip detached from brush holder.Bad connection between field and cord.Open-circuited armature.Open-circuited field.Pull the plug, turn the switch on andcheck for a ground with a test lamp.Touch one prong of the test lamp to aprong of the plug and the other prong toan unpainted spot on the housing. If thelamp lights the mixer is grounded. Examine all the wiring in the order of itsaccessibility until the grounded lead isfound. If mixer has radio interferencecondenser wired between stator screw andpower cord, remove and discard.Examine all the bearings in the orderof their accessibility until the frozenbearing is found.

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    Trouble Possible Cause RemedyBAD SPARKING AT CON- Open-circuited condenser. Disconnect one yellow condenser lead andTACT POINTS OR turn switch knob to the No. I position. IfBURNED CONTACTS a very faint spark can be seen when thelead is touched to the other three leadswhen the connection is made or broken,the condenser is not open. If the con-denser is in good condition , a noticeabledecrease in sparking is apparent at thecontact points. Replace a fa ulty con-denser .

    Faulty resistor. Turn the switch knob to high speed andbreak the circuit through the contactsby lifting the inverted "T " shaped part ofthe spring on which the contacts aremounted. If the mixer comes to a fullstop, the resistor is faulty and shouldbe replaced.BAD SPARKING AT Worn motor brushes. Remove brushes and check that they areMOTOR BRUSHES not worn to less than 5/ 16 inch. Replacewith new bru shes if excessively worn.(Grade F-6)

    Rough commutator. Remove th e trim strip and hold a narrowpiece of fine sandpaper against the com-mutator as the motor is running. If thecommutator cannot be smoothed down inthis manner, remove the armature andturn it down in a lathe.

    Faulty armature or shorted motor field . Disassemble and check motor.