Kenmore Sewing Machine 385.1695180

KenmopeSEWING MACHINE 16951

OWNER'S MANU

Seal Canada Inc.

Dear" Homemaker:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine.Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for amomenl and carefully read this booklet which containsinstructtons on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tensionadjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain

the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expensefor conditions beyond our control.

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is alwaysavailable at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember,if you have questions about your machine, always mention themodel number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the modelnumber and serial number of this appliance.The model number and serial number are

located on the nomenclature plate, as identifiedon of this booklet.

Model No,385, Serial No.Retain these numbers for future reference.

• k

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINEMachine identification ..................... 2Accessories ............................ 4

Setting spool pins ....................... 5Converting to free-arm sewing ............... 5Pressure regulator, Presser feet lever ........... 6

Presser feet, Speed control plug .............. 7Light and power switch, Sewing light .......... 8Foot control, Seam guides, Darning plate ....... 9Needle, thread and fabric chart .............. 10Needles, Placement of needle ............... 11Winding the bobbin ...................... t 2Threading the bobbin thread ................ 13Threading top thread ..................... 14

Picking up bobbin thread .................. 15Adjusting top thread tensions ............... 16

STARTING TO SEW ....................... t 7

SIMPLE SEWING

Straight stitching ....................... 18Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner

Zigzag stitching .......................... 20Checking tensions, Overcasting, Interfacing darts

UTILITY AND STRETCH STITCH SEWING

Buttonhole making ...................... 22Blind hemming .......................... 24Shell stitching ......................... 25Box stitching .......................... 26Fagoting, Two-point shell stitching ........... 27Satin stitching, Appliqueing ................ 28Zipper application ...................... 29Mending, Darning ....................... 30Button sewing, Bar tacking .................. 31Stretch stitching ........................ 32

Adjusting stretch stitch balance,Straight stretch, Rick-rack stretch,

Overcast stretch, Smocking stretch, Serging orpine leaf stretch, Elastic stretch, Stretchpatching, Herring bone stretch

Free-arm sewing .......................... 40

CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS ...... 41

CARING FOR THE MACHINE

Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle .............. 43Oiling under arm cover plate ................ 44Oiling underside ........................ 45Oiling in face cover plate .................. 46Parts list ............................. 47

USING PORTABLE CASE OR CABINET ........ 49

KNOW NG YOUR .: =, EWUNG

MACHUNE IDENTtFICAT!ON

Arm Cover Plate*&

Upper Thread Guide '\\,."\ \Pressure Regulato¢ X,

Bobbin Winder

Face Cover Plate

Extension Table/ Thread Guide

Presser Foot Thumb Screw

Needle Plate

Thread Guide

NeedleClamp Screw

Thread Spool Pins

Stretch Stitch Adjuster_4_

Light and Power Switch_ ._

Electric Cord Receptacle_ ! >'4_':

Presser Foot Lever

Free Arm

Nomenclature Plate

Bobbin CoverPlate

2

2. Stitch Width Control

\,\

3. Stitch Length Control

4, Stitch Selector

i Top ThreadTension Control

5. Reverse Stitch Lever

"i,_!_i!:_II!I!!_:I__!II!I:I:III!:_ii_,ii:_i:_il,i_:ii_!i;__!_iiii_II_i,iiiii_i:_iil_I!

3

_ACCESSOR_£S .... _

ACC ESSO R l ES

Accessory box Buttonhole opener

Large screw driver ,.._/

Satin stitch foot

_- Buttonhole guide foot%Darning plate

Straight stitch foot

Zipper foot

Foot control

\Owner's manual

\

4

SETTING SPOOL PINS

Spool Pins are packed in accessory box.

Screw thread spoo! pins in place securely with a screw driver.

Position spool pin discs and felts as shown in illustration.

Spool Pin:;fett

isc

_, Spoo!:.pin

CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING

To utilize free-arm feature for sewing tubular material, remove the extension table fromthe machine.

To return to flat-bed sewing, reposition the extension table inserting tabs of the base intoslot of the machine,

5

PRESSURE REGULATOR

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator° This will release the pressure on thepresser foot. (See above)

To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained.

Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty inguiding the fabric, if feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the

pressure.

When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure, increase pressurewhen sewing lighter weight fabrics.

PRESSER FOOT LEVER

To aid you in the placement of heavyfabrics under the presser foot, the levercan raise foot beyond the normal "up'"position, This is also an aid in changingyour presser feet,

6

PR ESSER FEET

To change the various presser feet, raisethe presser bar to its highest position bylifting the presser foot lever. Loosen thepresser foot thumb screw, choose theproper foot, insert from the bottom.

Tighten the screw using the large screwdriver to make certain the foot is secure.

SPEED CONTROL PLUG

insert the foot control plug onto the

three prong connector as shown at theleft. Connect the cord plug into any1 !0 "" 120 volt AC wall outlet.

7

:] :;

L_GHT AND POWER SW_TCH

Turn on power by pushing light andpower switch,

i mportant safety featu re

Your machine will not operate unless the

light/power switch is turned on, Turningon the power automatically illuminatesthe whole stitching area. If you're inter-rupted or stop sewing, turn off light/power switch.

SEWING LIGHT

The sewing light is located in the facecover as shown, To replace the bulb,turn the light off and open the facecover. Push the bulb up and turn thebulb counter-clockwise and remove itfrom the socket.

Push a new bulb in and turn it clockwise.

NOTE:

First, unplug the machine prior to re-moving and replacing the bulb, Be awarethat the light bulb may be warm.

8

FOOT CONTROL

Step on this control to start to sew. Theharder you press on the control, thefaster the machine will sew. Slow down

by reducing pressure on the control,You may want to practice your speed atdifferent levels when you first use themachine,

SEAM GUIDES

Seam guides are printed on either side ofthe needle plate to aid you in guidingyour fabric. THE GUIDE LINE EXTEND-ING ALONG THE RIGHTSIDE OF THENEEDLE PLATE 1S THE "ALL IM-PORTANT" 5/8" SEAM LINE,

The cornering guides are convenient whenturning a square corner 5/8" from thefabric edge. See next section of this bookfor directions°

DARNING PLATE

There are a few times when you want tocontrol the feeding of the fabric yourself,Raise needle to its highest position andraise presser foot. Place darning plateover needle plate aligning two pins ofdarning plate with holes of needle plate.You may then determine the movementof the fabric yourself. See page 31 forbutton sewing application,

9

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NEEDLE, THREAD !::_l',,tDFABRIC CHART

li)ii ii!i i?iiii!ii:!iii i: i!i!!ii!:ii!;i!i!:!:ii i!!ii,ii!i:::::=::::SIZE AND THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core/CottonWrap

: Fine Mercerized Cottoni Silk A

50 MerCerized CottonPolyester Core/CottonWrapSilk A

:::::::::::::::::::::::: Buttonhole Twistl_i!_:ii_i_i_!_!_:_}_!_!i(_:;i!i_iii!:!: :::::::::::::::::::::8:GREEN :::::1 :(Use as top thread only}

FABR iC::NEED LE-

RECOMMENDEDSTITCH LENGTH

SETTING

12 stitchesper inch

10 to 12 stitchesper inch

6 stitchesper inch

10 to 12 stitchesper inch

10

C! il 1

NEEDLES

Use KENMORE needles. The size of theneedle should conform with the size of

the thread and both should suit thefabric. Kenmore needles are color-coded

by size for your convenience (See charton facing page).

Never use a bent needle or one with a dull

point,

The exact length of your needle is shownat left, Be sure you never use one in

your machine that is not this exactlength,

PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE

Raise needle bar to its highest position by

turning the hand wheel toward you°Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holdingthe needle with the flat side away from

you, slip the needle into the needle bar.When it is in as far as it will go, tightenthe needle clamp screw with small screw-driver provided in the accessory box.

11

WGND_NG THE BOBBIN

1. Pull Push-pull Clutch away frommachine to disengage clutch.

2, Draw thread from spool throughbobbin winder tension disc as shown.

30 Pull end of thread through hole inbobbin as shown.

4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft

with end of thread coming from thetop of the bobbin. Push bobbin

winder shaft to the right until it clicks.Holding onto et_d of thread, startmachine. When bobbin is slightlyfilled, snip off end of thread.

5. Wind thread until winder stops.Remove bobbin. Clip thread.

6. Push in Push-pull Clutch to engageclutch.

12

THREADING "THE BOBBIN THREi-_,D

t_ Remove the extension table.

2. Remove the bobbin cover plate bypulling it toward you while pushing itdown slightly.

3. Insert bobbin into shuttle making surebobbin rotates counter clockwise.

4. Pull 4-inches of thread through tensionslot of bobbin case and toward back ofmachine as shown.

5. Close the bobbin cover plate allowingthread to emerge through slot inneedle plate.

13

THREADING TOP THREAD

Raise thread take-up lever to its highestposition by turning hand wheel towardyou. Raise presser foot lever, Place spoolon spool pin as shown, with threadcoming from the back of the spool,

!. Draw thread through thread guide,

2, Draw thread into threading channeltoward you.

3. Draw thread down channel and around

the spring wire as shown,

4. Draw thread up & through take-uplever.

5o Draw thread down and into thread

guide.

6. Thread then is slipped into needle barthread guide.

7. Thread needle from front to back.

14

@ P_CKfNG UP BOBBIH THREAD

1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle

thread loosely in left hand and rotatehandwheel toward you one completeturn,

\\

2, Bring bobbin thread up by pullingupper thread,

3, Pull both threads under and to the

back of the presser foot, leaving 3 to4 inches of thread clear°

If you cannot pick up bottom thread byfollowing steps given above, thencheck:

1, is needle threaded from front toback?

2. Is thread tangled around needle?

3. Is there 3 to 4 inches of thread comingfrom the shuttle?

4. Is thread from shuttle tangled?

15

ADJUSTING TOP THREADTENSIONS

Probably the most important control onyour machine is this one that regulatesyour top thread tension.

There are many reasons for having toreset your tension. The best tension forone fabric may not be correct for another.The required tension depends upon thestiffness of the fabric, thickness of thefabric, numbers of layers of fabric beingsewn, as well as the type of stitch you aremaking.

It is best to test the stitching on a scrapof the fabric you are using before startingto make a garment. Use the straightstitch function as shown at the right.

•i•_:•i•••i_•_i• •i•i:•••••i(••!:(:•••/•!:.... .....................

i:¸ • :-•• : ....... • • • • • •

: i ideai straight stitch:will have:threads: locked between the two

::: layers 0f fabric:

i i:: too tight

[hread too loose

16

STARTHNG TO SEW

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories

provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewingmachine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:

t , Test the needle: it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should bethe correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change yourneedle frequently° Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull theneedles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers°

2., Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have beendrawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine° Hold on to threads during the sewingof the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.

3o-Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, The fabric should bedouble thickness,, Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable toyour fabric.

4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left

of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking onthe needle plate when making a simple seam.

5o Run the machine at a slow even speed,. The more pressure you put on the foot control,the faster the machine will sew.

6,, Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam_

7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point,,

8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle, Never pull or hold thefabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.

9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.

17

SIM PL E SEWUNG

STRAIGHT STiTCHiNG

Top thread tensioncontrol 3 to 6

Stitch lengthI2to6 Stitch width 0 Stitch selector

You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of sewing-temporaryand permanent.

1, Temporary stitching-Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layerof fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are:

BastingStay stitchingGuide line marking

2o Permanent stitching. This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together. Muchof this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be goodIooking,

The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10-t2 stitches per inch. This isin the middle range of the Stitch Length Control.

You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiple layers of fabricand thicker seams. Some of these seams are:

Common two layer seamsCurved two layer seams

Top stitched three layer seamsTop stitched four layer seams

When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness, sew slowly andcarefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area.

18

FASTENING A SEAM

Be sure both threads are drawn back

under the presser foot. Lower needleinto fabric about 1/2 inch from beginningof seam. Keep pressing reverse stitchlever down and stitch in reverse until

needle reaches beginning of seam.Release the reverse lever and complete

seam. When you reach the end, press thereverse lever down again and sew back

over 1/2 inch of completed seam.

TURNING A SQUARE CORNER

To turn a square corner 5/8" from thefabric edge, stop stitching with the needletip piercing the fabric, when reaching thecornering guide as shown. Raise thepresser foot, turn fabric. New stitchingline will align with 5/8" seam guide onside of needle plate. Lower the presserfoot and begin stitching in new direction.

19

ZRGZAG ST_TCHSNG


Stitch length24 to 6

Stitch width1to5 Stitch selector

Presser foot

This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine_ This is the feature that

enables you to overcast seams, applique and sew on buttons. Simply use the settingsindicated in the illustration for the simple zigzag. Follow directions given in the followingpages for more specific uses.

2O

CHECKING TENSEONS

The easiest way to check tensions is tosew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabricyou will be using.

Use the appropriate type of thread andneedle. Use different colors of thread on

the bobbin and upper spool.

Sew a line of medium zig-zag stitches°The bobbin thread should not show on

the top of the fabric.

Adjust the top tension if necessary toachieve the stitch formation mentionedabove,

This tension control is very sensitive.You may want to reduce the tensiontowards 0 when sewing wide stitches onsoft fabric. This reduction of tension

will tend to eliminate puckering of softfabrics,

UNDESIRABLE DESIRABLE

TOP SIDE OF FABRIC

Fig 1

Fig 2

I!

I /I

t

!

IOVERCASTING

This is one of the more frequently usedzigzag stitches in garment construction.You may want to overcast along the rawedge of each seam allowance or fold the

raw edge toward the garment and stitch.

Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric justshort of the outside edge. Raw or wornedges of older garments can be overcastto prevent further raveling.

INTERFACING DARTS

To reduce bulk of interfacing darts, cutinterfacing down center between dart

lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dartlines. Zigzag stitch along marking linefrom point to wide end of dart, Trim

both raw edges close to stitching.

21

UTILITY AND ST'RETCH STITCH SEWINGFs-<

BUTTONHOLE MAKRNG


Stitch LengthGreen Z one._::_

Stitch width3to5

:::[':' : : ', :

Stitch selector

Presser foot

Carefully mark the buttonhole lengthon your garment. Place the fabricwith the buttonhole marked under the

buttonhole foot_ Pull the guide foot(A) all the way forward so that theindex mark (B} is aligned with thegraduation (C), with thread to rear.(Reproduction of the identical sizebuttonholes is facilitated with the aidof the graduations on the left side of

the buttonhole guide foot. These gra-duations are 1/5" apart. Graduationsact as reference mark.)

22

2. Set stitch selector at _. Stitch for -

ward until you approach the bot-tom marking of the buttonhole.Stop sewing at the right stitch andraise the needle to its highest positionby turning hand-wheel toward youmanually.

3. Set stitch selector at _and bartack5 or 6 stitches at the bottom mark of

the buttonhole. Stop sewing at theleft stitch. Raise needle to its highestposition by turning handwheel towardyou.

4. Set stitch selector at I_and sew the

other side of the buttonhole until youapproach the top marking of the

buttonhole. Stop sewing at the leftstitch, Raise the needle to its highestposition.

5o Set stitch selector at [Z:Z_ again andbartack 5 or 6 stitches to finish thebuttonhole.

Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the buttonholewith the button you will use°

Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. Tissue paperor regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitching, if it is used.

For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly°

23

BLIND HEMMaNG


Stitch length24 to 8

Stitch width2to 3 Stitch selector

Presser foot

©

io

Fig. 1

Finish edge of hem anyway youdesire. Turn up hem appropriatewidth, (Fig. 1)

PresserFoot

Fig 3

3, Place garment under presser foot insuch a way that narrow zigzagstitches will be sewn on extended

edge° The wide zigzag stitch shouldjust catch the fold of the garment,(Fig. 3)

Right Side ofFinished Hem

EdgeFig, 2

2. Fold garment away from hem leav-ing I/8" of hem edge extending,( Fig, 2)

Fig, 4

4. Press both sides of the finished hem,

The right side of the garment wiltshow only the blind stitches, (Fig, 4)

24

SHELL STITCHING

A_hJLA


Stitch length24 to ! 2

Stitch width3to5

Presser foot

: ::, : : : :::: }:: : i

Stitch selector

,: :: ; : ::; ":: ::::;

This stitch used on the edge of nylon

tricot makes an attractive edge stitchcalled Shell Stitching.

When sewing this stitch, allow needle tojust clear the right edge of the fabricwhen it zigzags.

You may need to tighten top threadtension slightly to obtain desired effect.

25


Presser foot

Stitch length24 to t 2


This is a good stitch to use in attaching orbinding elastic fabrics and stretch lace,lingerie stretch knit.

The stitch is decorative as well as useful°

DECORATIVE EDG ING

Turn the raw edge under 2" and press.Place the fabric right side up with themiddle of the turnover under the center

of the presser foot, so that the stitch sews

on to the fold and just over the raw edgeunderneath.

26

I

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector .........

Stitch Length Control .... Greento 12

Stitch Width Control ...... 5

Top Thread TensionControl .............. 0 to 4

Zigzag Presser Foot

Zone

This is a popular decorative stitch (used in sleeves or fronts of blouses and dresses). To

attach two separate pieces of fabric together, leave a little space inbetween_ To preparethe fabric:

Fold under the seam allowances on the cut edges, and press_ Baste folded edges to tissuepaper with about 1/8" space between. Stitch over the I/8" allowance, just catching the

fabric fold on both sides with needle. Remove bastings and paper; press.

TWO-POINT SHELL STITCHING

t\ A

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector ......... r °

Stitch Length Control .... Greento 12

Stitch Width Control ..... 3 to 5


Zigzag Presser Foot

Zone

This stitch can also be used as a single overlock stitch as well.

27

SATIN STITCHING


Stitch LengthGreen Zone


Presser foot

©

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. This is an attractive stitch used forappliqueing, buttonhole making.

Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the topthread slightly° The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension should be.

If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper orinterfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material will be eliminated and thebobbin thread will not be visible on the top side of the fabric.

It is best to practice a sample design on a fabric scrap before sewing design on garment.

APPL_QUEING

SETTINGS

Same as with Satin Stitching

Select an applique design to be appliedto your garment and baste it in place.Satin stitch around the raw edge of theapplique completely covering the edge.You may want to do this with a con-trasting color of thread or self color.

28

Z_PPER APPLICATION

SETTINGS


Stitch Length Control .... 12Stitch Width Control ...... 0


Zipper Foot

Needle entry(right)

1

Fig, 3

REGULAR ZIPPER

Pin or baste zipper to fabric and place thework in position under the presser foot,Loosen the zipper foot adjusting screwto set the foot on the left side of the

needle, and sew the left side zipper as

shown. (Fig. 1) To sew the rightsidezipper, loosen the screw and bring thefoot to the right side of the needle,

INVISIBLE ZIPPER

Adjust the foot so the needle is sewingthrough the center hole of the foot andone groove of the foot is riding on theteeth of the zipper. See Fig, 2. Followthe zipper manufacturer's instructions,

After zipper has been inserted, finishsewing seam by shifting foot to sideposition sewing through side notch,

CORDING

Foot can also be used to make cordingfor slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with astrip of bias fabric and sew as shown inFig. 3.

NOTE :

Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIP-PER FOOT" (6757) for "invisible zipper"and "cording", which can be obtained atany stores of Sears Roebuck and Co.

29

30

MENDBNG ' ^ ^ ^ '\ / \ / \ / \ /

v "v V V

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector ......... ;>

Stitch Length Control .... Green Zone

Stitch Width Control ..... 5


Zigzag Presser Foot

To repair a straight or three-corneredtear, position the tear under the needlein such a way that the stitching catchesboth sides of the tear. When mending athree-cornered tear, stitch from eachend to the center. It is well to use a

piece of fabric under the tear for rein-forcement.

DARNING

SETTI N GS|I


Stitch Length Control .... 8 to 10Stitch Width Control ..... 0

Top Thread TensionControl .............. 3 to 6Presser Foot Pressure ..... 0

Zigzag Presser Foot

Use Darning plate (See page 9)

Stretch fabric between embroidery hoopswith hole centered, Lower presser bar

and sew at a slow speed moving fabricback and forth with a steady rhythm tocover darning area. When it is covered,turn fabric 1/4 a turn and sew layer of

stitching across first layer,

If fabric is thin or badly damaged in holearea, you may want to put a separatepiece under the hole for reinforcement,

Be sure to return pressure on presser footto original adjustment after darning.(See page 6)

BUTTON SEWING

SETTINGS/

Stitch Selector ........Stitch Width Control ..... Must be

adjustedTop Thread TensionControl .............. 0 to 4

Use Darning PlateZigzag Presser Foot

1. Align two holes of button with slot ofpresser foot and lower foot to holdthe button securely,

2. Turn hand wheel manually untilneedle point is just above button.

3, Adjust stitch width control so needlewill enter left hole of the button.

4_

,

Turn hand wheel again by hand soneedle enters second hole. Readjuststitch width if necessary, Stitch anumber of times.

Finish sewing with an extra two inchesof thread remaining. Draw thesethreads to reverse side of garment andtie.

m i _ : m(! •• • • • h •

IH• • h • • •:••1

i i I

• i • : /: I

£AR TACKING

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector ......... _

Stitch Length Control .... Green

Stitch Width Control ..... 1 to 5


Zigzag Presser Foot

Zone

This stitch is similar to a very short satinstitch and is used to reinforce points ofstrain such as corners of pockets and

straps on lingerie,

Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches°

31

STRETCH STITCHING

The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics.stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection°

These are special

i

t

J

J

J

J

J

X><

<<®

/_/\ ,,,, \

\/\/\f

\/\t "-. /

®

1. Straight Stretch)x\ 2o Rickrack Stretch

3. Overcast Stretch

\'\ 4. Smocking Stretch/x\ 5_ Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch)x 6. Elastic Stretch\ 7. Stretch Patching,\ 8. Herring Bone Stretch

@® ® ®®®

32

ADJUSTING STRETCHSTITCH BALANCE

In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch

adjuster should usually be in a neutralposition (between "+" and "--", or I_position). When sewing some fabrics, youmay need to adjust this control tobalance the stitches for appearance sake.

If design seems open like the illustrationsto the left, adjust the control slightlytoward "-" until design looks like the

center design,

if the design appears to be closed as inthe right hand illustrations, turn thecontrol toward "+" until stitching is as

you desire.

STRAIGHT STRETCHSTgTCHaNG


Stitch lengthAny number(not necessaryto adjust)

: ::

Stitch width 0 Stitch selector

Presser foot

Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabricand other fabrics that stretch. Sew as

you do with regular straight stitchseaming. The seam may be pressed openas with any regular seam, but will stretchif necessary.

This is also a good stitch to use on curvedseams regardless of the type of fabric,Any seam that will receive a great deal ofstrain when worn should be sewn withthe stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts

and slacks as well as adult sports clothes,

33

R_CK-RACK STR ETCH STITCH _NG

*Top thread tensioncontrol 0 to 4

!!iiiPresser foot



Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch.This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well.

34

OVERCAST STRETCHSTITCHING



i

J

Stitch width 5 Stitch selector

Presser foot

!

This stitch can be used for sewing a seamwith an overcast finish. It is used forseams of 3/8" to 1/4", The seam is

formed and finished in one operation. Itmust be used when you are makingswimwear, ski pants and other garmentsthat require stretch_

Fig, 1 shows the raw edge finished,

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric justshort of the outside edge.

Raw or worn edges of older garments canbe overcast to prevent further raveling.

-Fig. I

35

SMOCKING STRETCHSTUTCHUNG

/_,/\/\ / \/'_./\ _%/\ / \/'-. _" \.P\/N.t._ / \ / _,/\/-./\/

Top thread tensioncontro! 0 to 4


Stitch width3to 5

Presser foot

a

Stitch selector

With a narrow strip of fabric directlyunder the line of gathering, stitch overthe gathers° The design will be a series ofsmall diamonds,

When smocking a garment, the stitch-ing should be done before the piece issewn into the garment.

36

SERGING OR PINE LEAFSTRETCH STITCHING



Stitch width3to5 Stitch selector

Presser foot

tll,_

t11"2

The serging or pine leaf stitch is similar toone used by garment industry in makingsportswear. It is particularly useful whensewing swimwear, ski and other sports

garments,

37

ELASTBC STRETCH STITCH



Stitch width3to 5

Presser foot

Stitch selector

Use this versatile stitch to insert elastic in

garments° Simply stitch elastic into

place, making sure it is evenly spaced_To do this, mark the correct length pieceinto quarters, then match these markingswith center front and side seams.

38

STRETCH PATCHING

SETTINGS 4.Stitch Selector ......... <_

Stitch Length Control .... Any number(not neces-

sary toadjust)



Zigzag Presser Foot

If the kids keep "busting out" elbows or kness .......if someone burns or hole in expensive knits ......this recipe will save you big money ! It can be decorative,too - - When you want patches to show !

HERRING BONE STRETCH

SETTINGS 5.Stitch Selector .........

Stitch Length Control ..... Any number(not neces-sary toadjust)



Zigzag Presser Foot

Use as hemming stitch for blankets, tablecloth and draperies°

Place the fabric right side up, and sew 3/8" from the edge,Trim close to stitching, The stitch will prevent raveling,

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FREE-ARM SEWING

!/

/

.... . i:::ilt -: i :! ): i: ::

if:i•:i:!!!:)_!::_i!ji!:£i::_;ii:•_i::::•-:i:7__;_:;:•: :•::F• ..........

This sewing machine can be used like aflat bed machine, but easily converts tofree arm machine by removing theextension table.

The free arm enables you to sew tubulartypes of pieces more easily° Just slip thesleeve or pants leg on the free arm asshown above°

You will find many uses for this free armfeature such as:

1. Mend elbows and knees of garments

more easi!y.

2o Sew in sleeves more easily.. This is

especially true when sewing smallergarments°

3. Applique, embroider or hem aroundedges of cuffs or pants legs.

4o Sewing in elastic casings in skirts orpants at the waistline.

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Cnecu<ung __, 0_ °0,,o_nceProbSems WHAT TO DO

..... CORR ECTION

Choose correct_siZe needle for:thread and fabric,Rethread machine,Tighten upper thread tension.: _DO not pull fabriC; guidel]t gently.tnCrease pressure on presser f0ot_

ReSet presser foot:i-Rewind bobbin.:: i:Replacelneedle plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.Choose correct Size needle for thread and fabric.Reset needle_Reset presser foot.

When Starting a seam be Sure to draw both threads under andback of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitchesare formed.

Reset thread tensions (s).Increase pressure on presser foot.Upper thread and bobbin thread should be Same sizeand kind.; .....Insert new needle.Reset presser f0ot,Use underlay of tissue paper.

4_

4_bO

:iChooselCOfre_i_size:needre_:i nsertln_wneed!e. : :::Reset needle. : i: i

Loosen upper th[ead tension.Increase pressui:e: on P_;esser foot.

Start :to stitch at a :medium speed.Rethread machine.Lo0sen upper thread tension.Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.Insert new needle. ..... : : :Replace needle plate; or polish off burrs:completely.

Check bobbin threading,Clean bobbin and Shuttle.

Remove darning plate.Increase pressure on presser foot.Place both threads back under presser foot beforebeginning to stitch.Push in the clutch.

Disassemble and clean shuttle.

CLEANING FEED DOGS AND SHUTTLE

To insure the best possible operation ofyour machine, it is necessary to keep the

essential parts clean at all times. Using asmall brush, remove the lint that accumu-lates in the shuttle area and around the

feed dogs,

1, Remove bobbin cover plate by slidingtoward you. Using a screw driver,remove needle plate cover. (Fig, 1 )

2. Remove the shuttle by lifting up andout°

® 3, Using a small brush, remove the lintthat accumulates in and around the

feed dogs and shuttle area, And put adrop of oil to the point indicated byarrow,

®

®

4. Insert the shuttle into the shuttle race

making sure to line up red arrows asillustrated in Fig, 4, The bobbinshould be fully seated°

5o Replace needle plate.

NOTE :

A small brush is provided in the accessory

box°

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OILING UNDER ARM COVER PLATE

Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head. To remove coverplate, loosen up two top screws and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.

OILING UNDERSIDE

Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers by loosening two screws (A) and (B) asshown below, Then place one or two drops of Kenmore sewing machine oil at each point.

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OILING JN FACE COVER PLATE

Open face cover plate and oil points in illustration.

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PARTS LIST

1 2 54 6

7 8 9 10 11 12

13 14

2O

15 16 17 18 19

21 22 23

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PARTS LiST

All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears store or service center.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFOR-

MATION:

1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmittedto a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.

Part No.Ref. No.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

1819

20

21

22

23

24

*6862

1939

8286

2273

1O2403202

813404013

6551

6552

6553

6554

650511002

648801005

650802003

40390

650801002

593401008

*6757

*6864

6797

650166008

6830

41670

41669

*6889

802424004

*6530

650803004

"6811

* These items are not furnished with the machine,instructions above.

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Descri ption

Bobbin box with 10 bobbins

Bobbin winder rubber ring

Thread spool pin

Nylon disc

Spool pin felt

No. 11 Stretch fabric needles (BLU)

No. 1t Single needles (ORG)

No. 14 Single needles (RED)

No. 16 Single needles (PUR)

No, 18 Single needles (GRN)

Needle clamp with screw

Buttonhole guide foot

Straight stitch foot

Standard zigzag foot

Satin stitch foot

Zipper foot

Zipper foot

Needle threader

Light bulb

Motor belt

Buttonhole opener

Large screw driver

Small screw driver

Oil and lint brush

Lint brush

Flower stitch attachment

Darning plate

Foot control (Not illustrated)

but may be ordered per

I USHNG PORTABLE CASE OR CABgNET

A full line of sewing cabinets is availableat your nearest Sears retail store or

through our general catalog, Wheneveryou're ready to sew, so is your sewingplace. Another option buy aCarrying Case . . . then your Kenmoregoes anywhere, can be stored anywhere.

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+#

WARRANTY

FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE

HEAD

For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free ofcharge, repair defects in material or workmanship whichappear in the sewing machine head.

FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIP-

MENT OF SEWING MACHINE

For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free ofcharge, repair defects in material or workmanship whichappear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine,including motor, wiring, switch and speed control,

FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS

For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will,charge, replace any parts and provide mechanicalnecessary for proper operation of the sewing machinefor normal maintenance+

free ofservice

, except

To obtain warranty service described above, SIMPLY CONTACTTHE NEAREST SEARS STORE OR SERVICE CENTER IN

CANADA. This warranty applies only while this product is inuse in CANADA.

.&

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+.+

+

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+z-

+

+

+

+z

+T

+

+

+This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also

have other rights which vary from state to state.

SEARS CANADA INC., TORONTO, ONT M5B 2B8

+

+

+

+

+=+_RI "_'@+' "_ _JIl++_ "t||l* _ :+l_ll, _ "till, _ 41|+, _ "1||t* _ 'lilt, _ "111+,"41)- 'lli_, -4_ "1111, _ ++Jll, "4It,- 'lltl, -'415- '1|1_, _ ,till- +4D_,- ,*1111_"

SEWING MACHgNE

Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine, should aneed ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact anySears Service Center and most Sears Stores.

Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.

The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown onyour nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine.

See page 2 for location,

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THEFOLLOWING INFORMATION:

*MODEL NUMBER*NAME OF ITEM*PART DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order willbe electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribu-tion Center for handling_

SEARS CANADA INC., TORONTO, ONT M5B 2B8

S-385 Printed in Taiwan Part No. 650800012

Kenmore Sewing Machine 385.1695180

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