KEEPING CRYSTAL RED SHRIMP

Written By Stan JamrogPhotographs by Stan Jamrog

Edited and Layout by Michaela Knott© 2014

KeepingCrystal Red ShrimpBy Stan Jamrog

Freshwater ornamental shrimp are somewhat new to the aquarium hobby. There are many different types of shrimp you can get. The key with any shrimp is to provide clean water in the right parameters, just like any sensitive fish. The only difference is in which parameters we need to control! After we know that the rest is relatively simple. The Crystal Red Shrimp (CRS) is one of the more finicky when it comes to water parameters. Every CRS you see today is descended from the same three shrimp!

This is why they tend to be sensitive, particularly at higher

grades (CRS are graded into categories). The higher the grade, generally the more sensitive, and more valuable. Some shrimp have been known to sell for thousands of dollars! Most people start with easier shrimp, like the various neos (cherry shrimp etc.). If you have been keeping fish for a while, and know how to provide good, filtered water, you can do CRS.

A word on water: This is key. We are used to monitoring ph, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. While important I will add some more that are even more critical! Gh, kh, and total dissolved solids (tds).

With these shrimp in particular you want the following values:

• GH 6 • KH < 2• TDS 120-200 (I keep

around 150) • pH < 7.0 is best• Ammonia 0ppm• Nitrite 0ppm• Nitrate < 10ppm• Temp 68˚ – 74˚F

You can buy a TDS meter online or at some big box stores. You can opt for a 15 dollar model, or spring for the 80 dollar model, which will remain more accurate over a longer period. This tool is

Crystal Red Shrimp make for a great Intermediate shrimp for shrimp keepers. While a little harder than Cherry Shrimp, CRS can be a satisfying challenge for the beginner shrimp keeper.

KEEPINGCRYSTAL RED SHRIMP

essential. It tells you if the water is good, needs changing etc.

You will need:

• Tank: 10 gallon or bigger (smaller can be done if you keep the water clean)

• Active substrate (will help keep ph at a decent level. I use Fluval Shrimp Stratum)

• Moss (the shrimp will eat the algae and biofilm off of plants, especially mosses)

• Good filtration (I use a Rapids 85gph canister with sponge prefilter, bio Matrix, Purigen, felt)

• Good oxygenation

• Reverse Osmosis/distilled water (some tap is okay if tds is low. Massachusetts municipal water is often very low in tds, but a bit high in ph, leading people to think all they can keep is Africans. Not so! My tap water comes in between 35 and 45 ppm tds, so I use it for water changes with added remineralizers)

• Remineralizer (I use bee shrimpy salt, and add enough to get my tds up to 150 ppm)

Let your tank cycle as normal. I use ottos in the tank during cycling to help it along. They are about the only fish you can keep safely with CRS, though some have had success with some nano species. I wouldn't risk it! Many people let it cycle longer to ensure a buildup of biofilm for shrimplets to graze on. I also suggest adding an almond leaf or alder cones. They help keep the water soft and the babies love munching on them.

After you are completely cycled you can then add shrimp. Most set ups can easily handle 10+ shrimp per gallon, but don't load up too quickly! They will do that on their own! When you get your shrimp make sure to drip acclimate them for at least 30 minutes up to an hour or more depending on the grade of shrimp you are getting. You can build your own drip acclimator out of a plastic soup delivery container, some air tubing, and a valve to control water flow.

I do water changes once a week, no more than 20 percent (sudden shifts in params can kill them). I use tap water with bee shrimpy salts added.

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“The shrimp will eat the algae and biofilm off of plants, especially mosses”

Most breeders use RO/DI water. If you do not have a unit, you can buy water for pocket change at the supermarket. If your tap is high in TDS, you might want to get a ro/di filter anyways.

So that is it. With any luck within a few months your female shrimp will be “berried.” When you see the female carrying eggs under her tail, you know she has been fertilized and will hatch the eggs about a month later. I feed varied foods, and there are many specialized shrimp foods now on the market. Just be sure to never feed anything with a copper content to the shrimp. Any copper contamination in the tank will kill them, so be careful if fertilizing plants too!

To follow the progress of my first CRS tank from beginning to end, please visit http://petshrimp.tumblr.com. If you need shrimp, or have questions, feel free to contact me by email at stanjam@gmail.com. Please put shrimp in the subject line.

Referencesaquaviewdesign.complantedtank.com forumsshrimp and invertebrates section planetinvert.com

Originally Published via PDF on the MA/RI - Aquarium hobbyists Facebook Group March, 2014 by Stan Jamrog. Page formatting and editing by Michaela Knott.

“When you get your shrimp make sure to drip acclimate them for at least 30 minutes up to an hour or more depending on the grade of shrimp you are getting. You can build your own drip acclimator out of a plastic soup delivery container, some air tubing, and a valve to control water flow.”

“When you see the female carrying eggs under her tail, you know she has been fertilized and will hatch the eggs about a month later”

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