KDTV 900 Knit and Crochet Patterns

Series 900

As seen on

Knit and Crochet

PATTERNS

Copyright Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Chevron Market Bag Kristen TenDyke

publishers of Interweave Knits magazine…join the online knitting community at KnittingDaily.comVisit InterweaveStore.com/knittingpatterns for more great patterns!

Chevron Market Bag originally published in Interweave Knits, Spring 2010. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

page 1

knittingpatterns

Originally published in Interweave Knits, Spring 2010

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CHEVRONMARKET BAGK r i s t e n T e n D y k e

Finished Size 28" circumference and 15" tall, not including strap.Yarn Nashua Handknits Creative Focus Cotton (100% mercerized cotton; 93 yd [84 m]/50 g): #24 ivory, 7 balls. Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers. Needles Size 4 (3.5 mm): 16" circular (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); stitch holders; tapestry needle.Gauge 20 sts and 48 rows = 4" in purl brioche st.

Stitch GuideSl 1 yo (counts as 1 st): Bring yarn to front between needles, sl 1 pwise, wrap yarn over needle to back of work to complete yo, then place yarn in correct position to work the next st (depending on what next st is—knit, purl, or yo). Brk1: K2tog (slipped st and its companion yo).

Purl Brioche Stitch in Rows: (multiple of 2 sts + 1)Set-up row: (RS) Knit.Row 1: (WS) K1, *sl 1 yo (see Stitch Guide), k1; rep from * to end.Row 2: (RS) K1, *brk1 (see Stitch Guide), k1; rep from * to end.Row 3: K2, sl 1 yo, *k1, sl 1 yo, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.Row 4: K2, brk1, *k1, brk1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.Rep Rows 1–4 for patt.

Purl Brioche Stitch in Rounds: (multiple of 2 sts) Rnd 1: *P1, sl 1 yo, rep from * around.Rnd 2: *K1, brk1; rep from * around.Rnd 3: *Sl 1 yo, p1; rep from * around.

Rnd 4: *Brk1, k1; rep from * around.Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.

BASECO 15 sts. Work purl brioche st in rows (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 11¼" from CO. BO all sts.

BAGWith RS of base facing, cir needle, and beg at beg of BO edge, pick up and knit 14 sts along BO edge, 56 sts along side edge, 14 sts along CO edge, then 56 sts along 2nd side edge—140 sts total. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in purl brioche st in rnds (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 2" from pick-up rnd, ending with Rnd 2 of patt. Work Rnds 1–12 of Lower Brioche chart once. Work Rnds 1–14 of Lace chart 4 times. Work Rnds 1–14 of Upper Brioche chart once. Work in purl brioche st in rnds for 1". Next rnd: Work 15 sts in patt, BO 55 sts pwise, work 15 sts,

then slip these 15 sts to a holder for strap, BO 55 sts pwise—15 sts rem on needle for strap. Cont in patt (purl brioche st in rows) over these 15 sts until strap measures 15" from bag BO, ending with a RS row. Place sts on holder. Transfer 15 held sts to needle, join yarn, and work as for first strap. Join two ends of strap with three-needle BO (see Glossary).

FINISHINGCord: With dpn, CO 3 sts. Work I-cord (see Glossary) for 30". BO all sts. Block pieces to measurements. Thread I-cord through eyelets at highest point of upper brioche patt. Tie an overhand knot at each end of cord. Tie in bow. Weave in ends.

Kristen TenDyke is a designer and technical editor. She uses her graphic-design degree in her job with Classic Elite Yarns, and it also comes in handy when she self-publishes her patterns online at www.kristentendyke.com.

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KRISTEN TENDYKE’S CHEVRON MARKET BAG uses a dense lace motif of interconnecting points and chevrons to create a fabric that stretches but retains strength. Right-leaning, left-leaning, and centered decreases are sometimes chained to form strong diagonals and sometimes stacked for vertical lines, with adjacent yarnovers to create open areas and balance the fabric. YARN Nashua Handknits Creative Focus Cotton, distributed by Westminster Fibers


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k2tog

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

sl 1 yo (counts as 1 st)

brk1: k2tog (yo and sl st)

ssk

yo

k1tbl

*sl 1 pwise wyb,replace m, cont working sts as shown

pattern repeat

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

14 st repeat

13*

11

9

7*

5

3

1

Lace

14 st repeat

11*

9

7

5

3

1

Lower Brioche

14 st repeat

13*

11

9

7*

5

3

1

Upper Brioche


Joe

Coc

a

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Birch Vest originally published in Interweave Crochet, Fall 2010. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

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crochetpatterns

Birch Vest Kristin Omdahl

Originally published in Interweave Crochet, Fall 2010



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Some concentration required

FINISHED SIZE 34 (38, 42, 46, 50)" bust circumference and 28 (281⁄2, 29, 291⁄2, 30)" in length. Garment shown measures 34", modeled with 0" ease.YARN Malabrigo Silky Wool [50% silk, 50% baby merino; 150 yd [137 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; ): #433 acorn, 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) balls.HOOK Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Stitch markers (m); yarn needle; three 3⁄4" buttons.GAUGE 17 sts and 6 rows = 4" in dc, blocked.

NotesGarment is worked from the top down beg at the neck.

Stitch GuideTreble crochet 2 together (tr2tog): *Yo 2 times, insert hook in indi-cated st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times; rep from *, yo and draw through rem 3 lps on hook.Treble crochet 3 together (t3tog): *Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicat-ed st yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times; rep from * 2 more times, yo and draw through rem 4 lps on hook.3tr-cluster (3tr-cl): *Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times; rep from * 2 more times in same st, yo and draw through rem 4 lps on hook.Reverse dc (rev dc): Yo, working from left to right, insert hook in next st to right, yo and pull up lp (3 lps on hook), [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times.Picot: Ch 3, sl st in third ch from hook.V-st: (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in indicated st or sp.

Fan pattRow 1: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, *[ch 4, sk next (tr, ch 2, tr), sc in next tr] 2 times, sk next (tr, ch 2, tr), ch 1, [tr, ch 1] 6 times in next tr, sk next (tr, ch 2, tr), sc in next tr, [ch 4, sk next (tr, ch 2, tr), sc in next tr] 2 times; rep from * to last st, sc in last tr, turn.Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sc, *ch 4, sc in next sc, ch 2, [tr, ch 2] in each of next 2 tr, (tr, ch 2) 2 times in each of next 2 tr, (tr, ch 2) in each of next 2 tr, sk next (sc, ch 4), sc in next sc, ch 4, sc in next sc, rep from * to last st, sc in last sc, turn.Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as sc and ch 3), sc in next st, *ch 2, [3tr-cl (see Stitch Guide) in next tr, picot (see Stitch Guide), ch 3] 8 times, sk next (sc, ch 4), (sc, ch 5, sc) in next sc; rep from * to last 2 sc omitting final (sc, ch 5, sc), sc in next sc, ch 2, dc in last sc, turn.Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr2tog (see Stitch Guide) working one leg in same st and 2nd leg in next ch-3 sp, *ch 4, [dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 4] 5 times, tr3tog (see Stitch Guide) working first leg in next ch-3 sp, 2nd leg in next ch-5 sp, and 3rd leg in next ch-3 sp; rep from * to last

2 ch-3 sps, omitting final tr3tog, tr2tog working first leg in next ch-3 sp and 2nd leg in final ch-3 sp, tr in last sc, turn.Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first tr2tog, dc in next ch-4 sp, *ch 2, hdc in same ch-4 sp, hdc in next dc, hdc in next ch-4 sp, [ch 2, sc in same ch-4 sp, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-4 sp] 3 times, ch 2, hdc in same ch-4 sp, hdc in next dc, hdc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in same ch-4 sp, dc in next st, dc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * across, working last dc in last tr, turn.Row 6: Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in next 2 sts, *ch 2, tr in next 3 sts; rep from * across, turn.Rep Rows 1–6 for patt.

YokeCh 42 (50, 58, 66, 74).Row 1: (RS) 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) ch, V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next ch, dc in next 7 (9, 11, 13, 15) ch, V-st in next ch, dc in next 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) ch, V-st in next ch, dc in next 7 (9, 11, 13, 15) ch, V-st in next ch, dc in next 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) ch, 2 dc in last ch, turn—54 (62, 70, 78, 86) dc.Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st), 2 dc in first dc, *dc to ch-2 sp, V-st in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 3 times, dc to last dc, 2 dc in last dc, turn—72 (80, 88, 96, 104) dc.Rows 3–4: Rep Row 2—108 (116, 124, 132, 140) dc.Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), *dc to ch-2 sp, V-st in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 3 times, dc to end, turn—124 (132, 140, 148, 156) dc.Rep Row 5 eight (nine, ten, eleven, twelve) more times—252 (276, 300, 324 348) dc. Next row: Ch 3, dc in first dc, dc in next 34 (37, 40, 43, 46) dc for front, ch 12 for underarm, sk next 58 (64, 70, 76, 82) dc for armhole, dc in next 66 (72, 78, 84, 90) dc for back, ch 12 for underarm, sk next 58 (64, 70, 76, 82) dc for armhole, dc in last 35 (38, 41, 44, 47) dc for front, turn—161 (173, 185, 197, 209) sts including underarm ch. Beg lower body lace:

K R I S T I N O M D A H L

BIRCH VEST

44 (44, 58, 58, 58)"112 (112, 147.5, 147.5, 147.5) cm

bust

: 32

(36,

40,

44,

48)

"81

.5 (9

1.5,

101

.5, 1

12, 1

22) c

m19"48.5 cm

9 (9

1 ⁄2, 1

0, 1

01 ⁄2, 1

1)"

23 (2

4, 2

5.5,

26.

5, 2

8) c

m

6 (61⁄4, 61⁄2, 63⁄4, 7)"15 (16, 16.5, 17, 18) cm

4 (41⁄2, 51⁄2, 6, 61⁄2)"10 (11.5, 14, 15, 16.5) cm

body



page 3

Row 1 (inc): Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in next 2 sts, [ch 2, sk next 2 sts, tr in next 3 sts] 7 (13, 7, 13, 19) times, [ch 2, sk next st, tr in next 3 sts] 22 (10, 28, 16, 4) times, [ch 2, sk next 2 sts, tr in next 3 sts] 7 (13, 7, 13, 19) times, turn—111 (111, 129, 129, 129) tr. Work fan patt (see Stitch Guide) 4 times—6 (6, 7, 7, 7) fans. Fasten off. Front bands:Row 1: (RS) Beg at lower right front edge and with RS facing, join at corner, ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), work 83 (85, 87, 89, 91) dc evenly up right front to foundation ch, 3 dc in beg foundation ch, place marker (pm) in center dc of 3-dc group, dc in next 38 (46, 54, 62, 70) ch of neckline, 3 dc in last foundation ch, pm in center dc of 3-dc group, work 84 (86, 88, 90, 92) dc evenly down left front, turn—212 (224, 236, 248, 260) dc.Row 2: Ch 3, *dc in each st to m, 3 dc in marked st, move m to center dc; rep from *, dc in next 25 (27, 29, 31, 33) dc, [ch 2, sk next 2 sts, dc in next 6 sts] 2 times, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, dc to end, turn—210 (222, 234, 246, 258) dc and 3 ch-2 sps.Row 3: Ch 3, dc across, working 3 dc in each marked st and 2 dc in each ch-2 sp, do not turn, remove m—220 (232, 244, 256, 268) dc.Edging: Working from left to right, rev dc (see Stitch Guide) in each st around left front, neck, and right front, work 3 rev dc at lower corner of right front, work rev dc in each st and ch across bottom of vest, work 3 rev dc in last st, sl st in beg rev dc to join. Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

FinishingGently block vest by hand, washing in cool water. Lay flat to dry. Using buttonholes as a guide, sew buttons to left-front band.

KRISTIN OMDAHL, cohost of Crochet Corner on Knitting Daily TV, is the author of Wrapped in Crochet (Interweave, 2008) and Crochet So Fine (In-terweave, 2010).

beg begin(s); beginning bet between blo back loop only CC contrasting color ch chain cm centimeter(s) cont continue(s); continuing dc double crochet dtr double treble crochet dec(s)(’d) decrease(s); decreasing;

decreased est established fdc foundation double crochet flo front loop only foll follows; following fsc foundation single crochet g gram(s) hdc half double crochet inc(s)(’d) increase(s); increasing;

increased k knit lp(s) loop(s) MC main color m marker mm millimeter(s) patt(s) pattern(s) pm place marker p purl rem remain(s); remaining rep repeat; repeating rev sc reverse single crochet rnd(s) round(s) RS right side sc single crochet sk skip sl slip sl st slip(ped) stitch sp(s) space(es) st(s) stitch(es) tch turning chain tog together tr treble crochet WS wrong side yd yard yo yarn over hook * repeat starting point ( ) alternate measurements and/or

instructions [ ] work bracketed instructions a

specified number of times

Abbreviations

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#4301-H RENDEZVOUS MITERED GARTER ST. SCARF Designed By: Barry Klein Copyright: March 2011

TRENDSETTER YARNS USED: Rendezvous #4-4/50gr. Trendsetter Needles #11 SIZE: 6” x 64”. GAUGE: With #11 needle and Rendezvous in Garter St.; 12sts = 4”. STITCHES USED: Garter St.: KNIT every row.

#4301-H Rendezvous Mitered Garter St. Scarf – Knitting Instructions SCARF: With #11 needle and A, Cast on 3sts. Knit 1 row. Work as follows: Row 1: K1 Increasing in stitch, K2. Row 2: K1 Increasing in stitch, K3. Row 3: K1 Increasing in stitch, K4. Continue in this manner, increasing in first stitch of each row until the length from cast on tail to needle is 6” and making sure an even number of stitches are on the needle. Change to work short row mitered sequence as follows: Row 1(RS): K1 Increasing in stitch, SSK. Turn work. Row 2 and all WS rows: Knit across the stitches just worked. Row 3: K1 Increasing in stitch, K1, SSK. Turn work. Row 5: K1 Increasing in stitch, K2, SSK. Turn work. Row 7: K1 Increasing in stitch, K3, SSK. Turn work. Row 9: K1 Increasing in stitch, K4, SSK. Turn work. Continue in this sequence, working 1 additional stitch before SSK every RS row until the complete row is worked. Last row will be a RS row ending with SSK. Continue in the mitered sequence alternating from side to side until enough yarn remains for the final miter. Scarf Finish as follows: Work in Short Row Mitered Sequence until ½ of stitches are on the right needle. Work next RS row as follows: Row 1 (RS): K1, SSK, work until the center join SSK as before and both needles will now have same number of stitches. Row 2 and all WS rows: Knit across the stitches just worked. Repeat these 2 rows until 6 stitches remain. Row 1: K1, SSK. Row 2: Turn and K2. Row 3: K1, SSK. Row 4: Turn and K2. Row 5: K1, SSK and bind off all stitches. Pull tail through to finish off.



Albus Argyle Socks originally published for Intarsia Indepth. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

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knittingpatternsA

nne

Swan

son

Albus

Argyle

SocksAnne Berk



page 2

ALBUS ARGYLESOCKS

A n n e B e r k

T his is a completely traditional argyle sock, knit from the top down, with solid

color heel and toe, traditional gusset and heel shaping. The only new aspect is that it is knit in the round, entirely seamless.

Finished Size 8 (91⁄4, 111⁄4)" foot circumfer-ence, and 101⁄4 (12, 141⁄2)" long from back of heel to tip of toe. Foot length is adjustable. Yarn Louet North America Gems #1 Super Fine (100% merino wool; 185 yd [169 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]): steel gray (MC) 2 (3, 3) skeins; teal (CC1), navy (CC2), willow (AC1), goldilocks (AC2) 1 skein each.Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): long circular (cir) for magic-loop method or set of double-pointed (dpn).Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 32 sts and 44 rows = 4" in patt.

NOTESThe instructions are written to knit the large diamond motifs using intarsia in the round and to add the accent color lines during finishing using duplicate stitch. Accent color lines can be knit at the same time as the sock if preferred. If the accent color lines are all the same color, make the accent color strand twice the length that you need, and begin knitting from mid-strand, carrying each end up across the work, according to the chart. This eliminates two ends to weave in for each accent strand used.

Wind butterflies of each color by wind-ing yarn around the palm of the hand 10-30 times. Now, remove the yarn from the hand, wind the loose end around the middle of the loop a few times, then secure with a half-hitch loop (pretend you are

making a e-wrap cast on, and place around the butterfly, then pull securely). You will knit from the other end of the yarn, and pull out yarn a bit at a time. Alterna-tively, wind the same amount of yarn onto bobbins.

Prepare 1 yarn butterfly or bobbin for each diamond, and 2 for the main color (MC). Each section will need its own source of yarn. On Row 1, strand the MC behind the contrast color (CC) diamonds. On Row 2, begin the 2nd strand of MC after working first CC diamond. As you get more comfortable with the technique, lengthen the strands you are working with to reduce the number of ends to weave in. As butterflies are used and get messy, unwind them and re-wind, or just let hang loose and pull through to untangle. Store butterflies or prepared bobbins in a ziplock baggie, and carry with the work instead of the balls of yarn. More butterflies and bobbins can be created as work progresses.

Note on “loops”: when turning work, you will always create a loop as you link the yarn strands over each other, which marks the end of the row. You should always have one loop on the needle—but only one. If you find that you have two loops next to each other, one is a “false loop” that was created by not pulling the previous yarn through the loop when you finished the previous row. The loop that you come to first on the needle is the false one. Pull that yarn free from the real loop and you will be good to go. Leave 4" tails when adding new yarn and when you come to the end of a strand, so that ends can be woven in securely. Weave ends into the joined links, use a sharp needle to weave the yarn into the links, not around them, for security. You should not need any knots. When weaving, gently guide the needle through the fibers of the links, for 3-4 links, then return along the same path. This will smush the fibers all together, and they aren’t going anywhere. You will not be sewing into any actually knitted sts, and nothing will show on the public side. Do not stop working at the end of a row. Without a loop in the knitting to tell you where you are, you will lose track of your

place, and where to turn the work. When working a loop, always turn the work afterward, and work at least a few stitches, creating a new loop. Placing a locking marker at the end of the row can also be a helpful guide when first learning this technique. When the strands get tangled, take a moment to untangle the yarn butterflies, or undo the butterflies and pull the entire strand free. Generally, once you get a few separated, the rest untangle very easily.

SOCK With MC and cir needle or dpn, CO 64 (78, 94) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd being careful not to twist sts. Work k1, p1 ribbing for 21⁄2 (3, 3)", or desired length. Next rnd Knit, dec 0 (4, 4) sts evenly around—64 (74, 90) sts rem. Remove m.

Row 1: RS (Set-up row) Join CC1, leaving a 4" tail. With CC1, k1, drop CC1, cross MC over CC1, with CC1, k1 (0, 0), with MC, k30 (36, 44), join CC2 leaving a 4" tail, k2 (1, 1), cross MC over CC2, with MC, k30 (36, 44), turn.Row 2: (WS) With MC Sl 1 pwise (the beg of row moves 1 st, you will work the sl st at the end of the row), take the strand of CC1 from the edge of the section to the right and bring over the top of MC that you were just knitting with, note the “loop” of color CC1 at beg of row, where it crossed over to be locked by MC, with MC p28 (34, 42), pick up CC2 from under MC to link colors, with CC2, p4 (3, 3), join new MC, p1, cross CC2 over MC, with MC, p27 (33, 41). The loop of CC1 signals the end of row. Pull on the loop to loosen enough yarn to purl with. Put your butterfly of MC through the loop of CC1 to link the colors. With the yarn from the loop of CC1, p4 (3, 3) including sl st of MC from beg of row. Gently tighten the loop to draw up the extra yarn, turn. Leave the yarn butterflies or bobbins to the outside of the work.Row 3: (RS) Sl 1 kwise from right needle left needle (beg of row moves over 1 st again, as you increase the size of the diamond, sl st will be worked at beg of Row 3), cross MC from the edge of the section to the right over top of CC1, note the “loop” of MC at beg of row. With CC1, k6 (5, 5), drop CC1, pick up MC from un-der CC1 to link, with MC, k26 (32, 40), pick up CC2 from under MC, with CC2, k6 (5, 5). Pick up MC from under CC2, with the yarn from



page 3

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the loop of MC, k26 (32, 40). Gently tighten the loop to draw up the extra yarn, turn. Follow chart, cont to form diamonds, being careful to link yarn at each color change. Work 31 (37, 45) rows of chart once, then reverse CC1 and CC2 and work chart again. Row 1 on second rep of chart will be a WS row.The heel f lap needs to be knit on an even number of sts, in order for the heel st patt to work correctly. With diamond motif centered below, arrange 32 (36, 44) sts on one needle for the heel f lap as foll. With MC, k17 (18, 22) sts, ending at end of heel sts. Heel sts should be centered above one diamond and instep centered above the second diamond. Place next 32 (38, 46) st on holder for instep. Heel flap: Row 1: (WS) *Sl 1, p1; rep to end. Row 2: (RS) Sl 1, knit to end. Rep Rows 1 and 2: 15 (17, 21) more times, and then work Row 1 once more. Turn Heel: Row 1: (RS) K18 (20, 24), ssk, k1, turn. Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn. Row 3: Sl 1 pwise, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn.Row 4: Sl 1 pwise, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn. Work Rows 3 and 4 until all sts have been worked. With RS facing, knit heel sts, pick up and knit 16 (18, 22) sts on the left edge of the flap, picking up into the slipped sts, pm. Starting on Row 1 of chart and working center

diamond only, knit across all instep sts in patt, centering the new diamond on top of the previous one, pm, pick up and knit 16 (18, 22) sts on right edge of the flap, pm. Knit to motif edge, turn work, make loop and purl 1 row even, loop yarn, finishing row, turn. Gusset Dec row (RS) Knit to m, sl m, k1, ssk, work in patt to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Working in St st with MC over foot and gus-set, and argyle patt over instep, rep Dec row every RS row 8 (9, 11) more times—64 (74, 90) sts rem.Size note: If the ankle is large, but the foot is a smaller size, continue to decrease gusset until the correct stitch count for the foot. Work the foot for the smaller size.When finished with argyle chart, work with MC only for remainder of sock, in the rnd. Cont working even in St st until the foot covers the little toe, or 71⁄2 (81⁄2, 9)" from heel. Lengthen or shorten the foot here to adjust

for individual size. Toe: Dec rnd On needle 1, (instep) k1, ssk, knit to end; on needle 2 (instep) knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on needle 3 k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—4 sts dec’d. Next rnd Knit. Rep last 2 rnds 7 (9, 11) more times—32 (34, 42) sts rem. Then rep Dec rnd every rnd 4 (4, 5) times—16 (18, 22) sts rem.

FINISHINGUse Kitchener st (see page 5) to graft toe seam. Using Argyle chart as a guide and du-plicate st, add accent lines using any combina-tion of AC1 and AC2.

Anne Berk was certified by TKGA as a Master Knitter in 2003. She has written patterns and articles for many publications, including Piecework, Sockupied, ColorKnit and Twist Collective. Anne is also an optometrist in private practice in Portland, OR, is a distance runner and a busy wife and mom.

beg beginning; begin; begins bet between BO bind off CC contrasting color cm centimeter(s) cn cable needle CO cast on cont continue(s); continuing dec(s) decrease(s); decreasing dpn double-pointed needle(s) foll following; follows g gram(s) inc increase(s); increasing k knit k1f&b knit into front and back of

same st k2tog knit two stitches together kwise knitwise LC left cross m(s) marker(s) MC main color mm millimeter(s) M1 make one (increase)

M1R (L) make one right (left) p purl p1f&b purl into front and back of

same st p2tog purl two stitches together patt(s) pattern(s) pm place marker psso pass slipped stitch over p2sso pass two slipped stitches

over pwise purlwise RC right cross rem remain(s); remaining rep repeat; repeating rev St st reverse stockinette stitch rib ribbing rnd(s) round(s) RS right side rev sc reverse single crochet sc single crochet sk skip sl slip

sl st slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise unless otherwise indicated)

ssk slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)

ssp slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)

st(s) stitch(es) St st stockinette stitch tbl through back loop tog together WS wrong side wyb with yarn in back wyf with yarn in front yo yarn over * repeat starting point

(i.e., repeat from *) * * repeat all instructions

between asterisks ( ) alternate measurements

and/or instructions [ ] instructions that are to be

worked as a group a specified number of times

ABBREVIATIONS



page 4

MC

CC1

CC2

AC1

AC2

turning point

Key

90 sts

45

43

41

39

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

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Large, size 111/4"

74 sts

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Medium, size 91/4"



page 5

MC

CC1

CC2

AC1

AC2

turning point

Key

64 sts

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Small, size 8"

Illustration by Gayle Ford

Step 1: Bring threaded needle through front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle.Step 2: Bring threaded needle through back stitch as if to knit and leave stitch on needle.Step 3: Bring threaded needle through first front stitch as if to knit and slip this stitch off needle. Bring thread-ed needle through next front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle.Step 4: Bring threaded needle through first back stitch as if to purl (as illustrated), slip this stitch off, bring needle through next back stitch as if to knit, leave this stitch on needle.Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until no stitches remain on needles.

Kitchener Stitch

Cleopatra Crochet Wire CuffThis incredibly simple, yet strikingly sophisticated accessory takes only a few short hours to make. Working with wire instead of yarn is the only learning curve here, as the entire project is worked in only slip stitch and single crochet!Even the clasp is joined to the cuff bracelet seamlessly.

Materials:one spool of 28 gauge non-tarnish silver or gold wire; Artistic Wire; 40yds per spoolone 5-strand bar clasp in matching color toneB/1 (2.25mm) crochet hook for crocheting with wireSteel 10 (1.3mm) crochet hook for joining clasp to braceletGauge: 5 sts/5.5 rows = 1” Finished size(s): 2.5” x 7” not including clasp

Instructions: Ch 14Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. -- 13 scs (See Figure 1)Row 2: ch1, sc in ea st across. -- 13 sts(See Figure 2)Row 3 - 28:rep row 2(See Figure 3)Round 29: do not turn, working along end of rows, slip stitch in ea row, turn, working along bottom of beginning chain, slip stitch in ea of first 4 chains. *Holding bar clasp close next to bracelet, insert hook into next chain and loop on bar clasp, yarn over, pull thorugh all. (See Figure 4). Rep from * 4 more times. Continue to slip stitch in ea st to end of row, turn, working along end of rows, slip stitch in end of each row, turn, work slip stitch in ea of next 4 sts from row 28. *Holding bar clasp close next to bracelet, insert hook into next chain and loop on bar clasp, yarn over, pull thorugh all. Rep from * 4 more times. Continue to slip stitch in ea st to end of round. Slst in first slst at beg of round to join. Fasten off. (See Figure 6)

Figure 1

Figure 2

Kristin Omdahl and Styled By Kristin patterns are for your personal use only and not to be used to create items for commercial gain. All Styled by Kristin patterns are licensed for single use and remain the intellectual property of Kristin Omdahl and Styled by Kristin. This pattern may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise.©Copyright 2012, All Rights Reserved

Figure 3 Figure 4

Figure 5 Figure 6


Joe

Han

cock

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Amstel Hat originally published in Interweave Knits, Fall 2012. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

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knittingpatternsTM

Amstel HatCourtney KelleyOriginally published in Interweave Knits, Fall 2012



page 2

AMSTEL HATC o u r t n e y K e l l e y

Finished Size 20" brim circumference, with ribbing stretched.Yarn The Fibre Company Road to China (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, 10% cashmere; 69 yd [63 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): blue tourmaline, 2 skeins. Yarn distrib-uted by Kelbourne Woolens.Needles Body—size 8 (5 mm): 16" circular (cir) and set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Brim—size 6 (4 mm): 16" cir. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 16 sts and 28 rows = 4" in charted patt (Rows 11–24) on larger needles.

NOTES Hat is worked from the top down.

HATUsing the Emily Ocker method (see page 3), CO 8 sts, divided evenly over 4 dpn. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Next rnd [K1, k1f&b] 4 times—12 sts: 3 sts on each needle. Work Rnds 1–10 of Chevron chart, changing to larger cir needle when neces-sary—88 sts: 22 sts on each needle. Work Rnds 11–24 two times, then work Rnds 25–30. Change to smaller cir needle and work chart Rnd 31—72 sts rem. Cont in rib patt as established for 1¾". BO all sts.

FINISHINGPull CO tail to close hole in center. Weave in ends and block.

Courtney Kelley is coeditor of the new book, November Knits, and coauthor of Vintage Modern Knits (Interweave, 2012 and 2011, respectively). She lives in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and is part owner of Kel-bourne Woolens, distributor of The Fibre Company yarns. You can see more of her work at www.kelbournewoolens.com/blog.

knit

purl 2

no stitch

k1f&b

p3tog

pattern repeat

work 2x

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2 22

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Chevron



page 3

beg beginning; begin; begins bet between BO bind off CC contrasting color cm centimeter(s) cn cable needle CO cast on cont continue(s); continuing dec(s) decrease(s); decreasing dpn double-pointed needle(s) foll following; follows g gram(s) inc increase(s); increasing k knit k1f&b knit into front and back of

same st k2tog knit two stitches together kwise knitwise LC left cross m(s) marker(s) MC main color mm millimeter(s) M1 (P) make one (purl) M1R (L) make one right (left) p purl p1f&b purl into front and back of

same st p2tog purl two stitches together patt(s) pattern(s) pm place marker psso pass slipped stitch over p2sso pass two slipped stitches

over pwise purlwise RC right cross rem remain(s); remaining rep repeat; repeating rev St st reverse stockinette stitch rib ribbing rnd(s) round(s) RS right side rev sc reverse single crochet sc single crochet sk skip sl slip sl st slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise

unless otherwise indicat-ed)

ssk slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)

ssp slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)

st(s) stitch(es) St st stockinette stitch tbl through back loop tog together WS wrong side wyb with yarn in back wyf with yarn in front yo yarn over * repeat starting point (i.e.,

repeat from *) * * repeat all instructions

between asterisks ( ) alternate measurements

and/or instructions [ ] instructions that are to be

worked as a group a speci-fied number of times

ABBREVIATIONS

Illu

stra

tion

s by

Gay

le F

ord

EMILY OCKER’S CIRCULAR BEGINNINGThis technique comes from Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitter’s Almanac (Dover, 1981). Make a simple loop of yarn with the short end hanging down (Figure 1). With a crochet hook, *draw a loop through main loop, then draw another loop through this loop (Figure 2). Repeat from * for each stitch to be cast on (Figure 3). After several inches have been worked, pull on the short end (shown by arrow) to tighten the loop and close the circle.

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 1

RISK-FREETRIAL OFFERDiscover knitwear designs that will capture your imagination. You don’t have to be a designer or a knitting pro to make beautiful knitted garments and accessories, and you don’t have to hunt all over for inspiring designs.From cover to cover, Interweave Knits magazine gives you great projects, from the beginner to the advanced. Every issue is packed full of captivating smart designs, step-by-step instructions, easy-to-understand illustrations, plus well-written, lively articles sure to inspire.Take advantage of this special risk-free offer today!


6606 Lush Cowl designed by Laura Bryant ©2012

A generous cowl with subtle shaping offers several styling op�ons.Wear it down on your shoulders, or on one shoulder as above.

Drape loosely around your neck for drama�c effect.Double up and stack all that luscious texture for a column of color.

Main body is one skein of Wild, Cool or Neat Stuff; we used Nevada.Two skeins of Plume create a deep, rich fur edge.

I want one in every color, how about you?

One Size: approx 10” x 36”

Materials: 1 Full skein Stuff A 2 Plume B Circ Needles #9 & 10 or size to get gauge

Gauge: With Stuff on #9, 16 sts & 24 rows = 4”

Cowl: With B and #10 needle, CO 120 sts. Knit 2 rows. Join for circular kni�ng, taking care not to twist. Work garter s�tch (k 1 rnd, p 1 rnd) for 4 rnds. Change to A and stockine�e st (k every rnd) and work to 5”. Change to # 9 needle and work to 7”. Dec 10 sts evenly spaced around next rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Dec 10 sts evenly spaced on next rnd. Cont to 8”. Work 9 rnds B in garter st on #9 needle, then BO all sts in B with elas�c bind off: *k 2 tog, slip st back to LH needle* repeat **. Fasten off & bury end.

™

www.prismyarn.com

www.prismyarn.com [email protected]

This airy scarf has great drape and style. The entier scarf is worked in garter stitch, then stitches are dropped and allowed to run to the cast on edge during bind off. Stitches on either side of the dropped stitch are twisted to discourage spreading, Take your gauge over basic garter stitch.

Tencel Dropped Stitch Scarf

One size, approx 5” x 66”

Materials:2 skeins Prism Tencel Tape, 100% Tencel, 2 oz/120 ydsNeedles size 8 or size to get gauge Stitch markers

Gauge: in garter stitch, 28 sts & 36 rows = 4”

Using either knit-on or backward loop cast on method, CO 22 sts. Set up pattern:K 2, *k1 tbl, place marker (pm), k 1, pm, k 1 tbl, k 2; repeat from * to end.Every row: K 2, *k 1 tbl, sm, k 1, sm, k 1 tbl, k 2; repeat from * to end.

Work to end of second skein, leaving enough to BO.

BO 3 sts, *drop marker, drop next st, (yo and pass last st over yo) 3 times, BO next 4 sts and repeat from * across.


joe

hanc

ock


Cables and Lace Broomstick Hat originally published in Crochet So Fine (Interweave, 2010). ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

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crochetpatterns

Cables and Lace Broomstick Hat

Kristin Omdahl

Originally published in Crochet So Fine

(Interweave, 2010)



page 2

yarnDK weight (#3 Light); 168 yd (154 m).

shown: Lion Brand Yarn, Micros-pun (100% microfiber acrylic; 168 yd [154 m]/2.5 oz [70 g]): sterling #910-150, 1 skein.

hookE/4 (3.5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

not ions3 straight or 1 circular U.S. 17 (12.75mm) knitting needle(s); tapestry needle.

gauge6 sts = 1" (2.5 cm); 11 rows in Cable Band patt = 4" (10 cm).

f in ished s ize 20" (51 cm) in circumference.

This hat is a play on the juxtaposition of cables and lace. The brim’s cable is dense, textured, and thick—great for keeping your ears protected in a blustering storm. The body of the hat is worked in �� you might think the openwork would not be very warm, but the twisted loops of broomstick lace have little pockets of air in the center, which help trap warmth.

cables and lace broomstick hat



page 3

special stitches

Broomstick Lace Pull up a long loop with yarn on hook, slip loop off of hook and onto knitting needle as stitch holder. *Working to the right, insert hook into next stitch (figure 1), pull up a long loop, and slip loop off of hook and onto knitting needle as a stitch holder. Repeat from * across or as directed by pattern. Slip loops off of knitting needle (as long as you are gentle with your work and don’t leave it unattended, it is safe to slip the loops off of the knitting needle). Insert crochet hook into first 6 loops, sl st into grouped 6 loops (figure 2) and draw up yarn long enough to be about the height of the loops, ch 1 (figure 3), 6 sc in same group of loops (figure 4), **group next 6 loops together, 6 sc in next group of loops (figure 5), repeat from ** across or as directed by pattern.

4

5

1

3

2

Back post double crochet (bpdc)Yarn over hook, insert hook from back to front, to back again around the post of next stitch, yarn over hook, draw yarn through stitch, [yarn over hook, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook] twice.

Front post double crochet (fpdc)Yarn over hook, insert hook from front to back to front again around post of stitch indicated, yarn over hook and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), [yarn over hook and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice—1 fpdc made.

Front post treble crochet (fptr)Yarn over hook twice, insert hook in specified stitch from front to back, right to left, around the post (or stem). Yarn over hook, pull through work only, *yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops on hook. Rep from * twice—1 fptr made.



page 4

1

BOTTOMEDGING

FOUNDATION ROW

CABLED BAND

3

2

5

4

6

= chain (ch)= slip st (sl st)

= single crochet (sc)

= double crochet (dc)

= group of 4 broomstick lace lps

= group of 6 broomstick lace lps

= Front Post dc (FPdc)

= Front Post tr (FPtr)

= Back Post dc (BPdc)

stitch key

stitch diagram ACables and Lace Broomstick Hat

Cabled BandRefer to stitch diagram A for assistance.

Ch 10.

ROW 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across—8 dc.

ROW 2: Ch 3, skip first st, bpdc around the post of each st across—8 sts.

ROW 3: Ch 3, skip first 5 sts, fptr around post of next st, fptr around post of next st, working behind last 2 sts made, dc in 4th and 5th sts; working in front of all sts, fptr in 2nd and 3rd st, dc in last st—8 sts.

ROW 4: Ch 3, skip first st, bpdc in each st across—8 sts.

ROW 5: Ch 3, skip first st, fpdc in each st across—8 sts.

ROW 6: Rep Row 4.

ROWS 7–120: Rep Rows 3–6 thirteen times; rep Rows 3–4. Fasten off, leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) tail for sewing seam. Sew last row to foundation ch.

Bottom EdgingWith RS facing, join yarn in any row-end st on one side edge of Band. Working in ends of rows across one side of Band, (sl st, ch 1, sl st) in end of each row around, join with sl st in first sl st at beg of rnd. Fasten off—60 ch-1 sps.

Hat Body Refer to stitch diagram B on p. 5 for assistance.

FOUNDATION RND: Working in oppo-site ends of rows, join with sl st to any row-end st, ch 1, 2 sc in each row-end st around, join with sl st in first sc at beg of rnd—120 sc. Do not turn.

RND 1: Pull up a long lp with yarn on hook, slip lp off of hook and onto knit-ting needle as st holder, *working to the right, pick up a lp in next st, pull up long lp, slip lp off of hook and onto knitting needle as stitch holder, rep from * until

you have used every st—120 lps on needle. Slip lps off of knitting needle (as long as you are gentle with your work and don’t leave it unattended, it is safe to slip the lps off of the knitting needle).

Insert crochet hook into first 6 lps, sl st into grouped 6 lps and draw up yarn long enough to be about the height of the lps, ch 1, 6 sc in same group of lps, **group next 6 lps together, 6 sc in next group of lps, rep from ** around, join with sl st in first sc. Do not turn.

RND 2: Sl st in each of next 3 sts, pull up long lp with yarn on hook, slip lp off of hook and onto knitting needle as st holder, *working to the right, pick up a lp in next st, pull up long lp, slip lp off of hook and onto knitting needle as st holder, rep from * until you have used every st. Slip lps off of knitting needle.

Insert crochet hook into 6 lps, sl st into grouped 6 lps and draw up yarn long enough to be about the height of the lps, ch 1, 6 sc in same group of lps, **group next 6 lps together, 6 sc in next group of lps, rep from ** around, join with sl st in first sc.

RNDS 3–4: Rep Rnd 2.

RND 5 (DEC RND): Sl st in each of next 3 sts, pull up long lp with yarn on hook, slip lp off of hook and onto knitting needle as st holder, *working to the right, pick up a lp in next stitch, pull up long lp, slip lp off of hook and onto knitting needle as st holder, rep from * until you have used every st. Slip lps off of knitting needle.

Insert crochet hook into 6 lps, sl st into grouped 6 lps and draw up yarn long enough to be about the height of the lps, ch 1, 4 sc in same group of lps, **group next 6 lps together, 4 sc in group of lps, rep from ** across, join with sl st in first sc. Do not turn—80 sc.

RND 6: Sl st in each of next 2 sts, pull up long lp with yarn on hook, slip lp off of hook and onto knitting needle as st holder, *working to the right, pick up a lp in next st, pull up long lp, slip lp off of hook and onto knitting needle as st



page 5

stitch diagram B

1

FOUNDATION ROWHAT BODY

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

holder, rep from * until you have used every st, slip lps off of knitting needle.

Insert hook into 4 lps, sl st into grouped 4 lps and draw up yarn long enough to be about the height of the lps, ch 1, 4 sc in same group of lps, **group next 4 lps together, 4 sc in grouped 4 lps, rep from ** around, join with sl st in first sc. Do not turn.

RND 7: Rep Rnd 6.

RND 8 (DEC RND): Sl st in each of next 2 sts, pull up long lp with yarn on hook, slip lp off of hook and onto knitting needle as st holder, *working to the

right, pick up a lp in next st, pull up long lp, slip lp off of hook and onto knitting needle as st holder, rep from * until you have used every st. Slip lps off of knit-ting needle.

Insert crochet hook into 4 lps, sl st into grouped 4 lps and draw up yarn long enough to be about the height of the lps, ch 1, 2 sc in same group of lps, **group next 4 lps together, 2 sc in group of lps, rep from ** around, join with sl st in first sc—40 sts.

Fasten off, leaving long tail for draw-ing center tight. With tapestry needle,

weave tail through each st on Row 8, pull tightly to draw the sts together. Fasten off securely.

Wet or steam block to finished mea-surements. Weave in loose ends with a tapestry needle.

KDTV 900 Knit and Crochet Patterns

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Transcript of KDTV 900 Knit and Crochet Patterns