Katana

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

It has been suggested that Uchigatana be merged into this article or section. (Discuss)

For other uses, see Katana (disambiguation).

Katana (?)

Katana on display at Okayama Castle.

TypeSword

PlaceoforiginJapan

Production history

ProducedMuromachi period (13921573) to present

Specifications

Bladelengthapprox. 6073 cm (23.628.7 in)

The katana (?) is Japanese for backsword and often refers to the uchigatana after the Muromachi period, which is a type of Japanese sword ( nihont?), also commonly referred to as a "samurai sword",[1] and generally defined as the standard size moderately curved (as opposed to the older "tachi" style featuring more curvature) Japanese sword with a blade length of greater than 60cm (23.6inches).[2]The katana is characterized by its distinctive appearance: a curved, slender, single edged blade, circular or squared guard, and long grip to accommodate two hands.[2] It has historically been associated with the samurai of feudal Japan, and has become renowned for its sharpness and cutting ability.

Contents

[hide]

1 Etymology 2 History 3 Forging and construction 4 Usage

4.1 Combat 4.2 Storage and maintenance 5 Ownership and trade restrictions

5.1 United Kingdom 5.2 Republic of Ireland 6 See also

6.1 Similar Japanese swords 7 References 8 Further reading

[edit] Etymology

In the strictest sense, the term katana in Japanese is applied to any kind of single-edged sword, of any origin, and does not necessarily refer to a Japanese sword.

"Katana" was originally used as a general term for a single-edged sword having a "sori" or curvature of the blade. While the "sugata" or form can take many shapes, including double edged, the term is now used incorrectly to describe nihont that are 2 shaku (606mm / 24in) and longer, also known as "dai" or "daito" among Western sword enthusiasts.

This distinguishes them from the straight-bladed chokut, which was brought from China by way of Korea.[3] The chokut is speculated to have been the first "sugata" type the katana took on, being modeled after the imported swords. This emergence of the first nihont took place the same time period as the beginning of Japanese feudalism and recognition of the daimyo or "great family" in the late ninth century.[4]Pronounced kah-ta-nah, the kun'yomi (Japanese reading) of the kanji , originally meaning dao (sword) or knife/saber in Chinese, the word has been adopted as a loanword by the Portuguese language.[5] In Portuguese the designation (spelled catana) means "large knife".[5] As Japanese does not have separate plural and singular forms, both "katanas" and "katana" are considered acceptable forms in English.[6]Another term, Daikatana, is a pseudo-Japanese term meaning "large sword", formed by a mistaken reading of the kanji (Japanese: dait), derived from the Chinese dadao. The reading mistake comes from the different ways Japanese Kanji can be read, depending on their combination or not in a word. It has been used in some (English-language) fictional works to represent a kind of large katana; the video game Daikatana, for example used this pseudo-term as its title. The correct name of this type of weapon is tachi ( note the extra dot, and different reading of ), and is different from tachi and nodachi.

The "Meitou" are a rare class of katana, meitou meaning "Celebrated Sword" or "Named Sword". They are prized swords passed through generations, won in battle, or given as a gift out of respect. Meitou are superior to ordinary katana in most aspects: cutting, endurance, etc. Meitou are more expensive, due to their quality; typically handmade by renowned sword-smiths, the Meitou gain their name through battle, long existence, and even royalty.

[edit] History

The katana evolved as a sleeker and more compact alternative to the tachi. Its origins go at least as far back as the Kamakura Period, with several blades dated from that time residing in various national repositories.

Its growth in popularity is believed to due the changing nature of close-combat warfare. The quicker draw of the sword was well suited to combat where victory depended heavily on fast response times. The katana further facilitated this by being worn thrust through a belt-like sash (obi) with the bladed edge facing upwards. Ideally, samurai could draw the sword and strike down the enemy in a single motion. [4] Previously, the curved tachi had been worn with the edge of the blade facing down and suspended from a belt.[2]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana" \l "cite_note-Kapp_1987-3" [4]The length of the blade varied considerably during the course of its history. In the late 14th and early 15th centuries, katana blades tended to be between 70 to 73 cm (27.6 to 28.7 in) in length. While during the early 16th century, the average length was closer to 60 cm (23.6 in). By the late 16th century, the average length returned to approximately 73 cm (28.7 in).

The katana was often paired with a similar smaller companion sword, like a wakizashi or a sht (essentially a short sword). It could also be worn with the tant, an even smaller similarly shaped knife. The katana and wakizashi when paired with each other were called the daish and they represented the social power and personal honor of the samurai.[2]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana" \l "cite_note-Kapp_1987-3" [4]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana" \l "cite_note-WBAR-6" [7][edit] Forging and construction

Main article: Katana construction

The authentic Japanese sword is made from a specialized Japanese steel called "Tamahagane"[8] which consist of combinations of hard, high carbon steel and tough, low carbon steel.[9] There are benefits and limitations to each type of steel. High-carbon steel is harder and able to hold a sharper edge than low-carbon steel but it is more brittle and may break in combat. Having a small amount of carbon will allow the steel to be more malleable, making it able to absorb impacts without breaking but becoming blunt in the process. The makers of a katana take advantage of the best attributes of both kinds of steel. This is accomplished through a number of methods, most commonly by making a U-shaped piece of high-carbon steel (the outer edge) and placing a billet of low-carbon steel (the core) inside the U, then heating and hammering them into a single piece. Some sword-makers use four different pieces (a core, an edge, and two side pieces), and some even use as many as five.[4]The block of combined steel is heated and hammered over a period of several days, and then it is folded and hammered to squeeze the impurities out. Generally a katana is folded no more than sixteen times, then it is hammered into a basic sword shape. At this stage it is only slightly curved or may have no curve at all. The gentle curvature of a katana is attained by a process of quenching; the sword maker coats the blade with several layers of a wet clay slurry which is a special concoction unique to each sword maker, but generally composed of clay, water, and sometimes ash, grinding stone powder and/or rust. The edge of the blade is coated with a thinner layer than the sides and spine of the sword, then it is heated and then quenched in water (some sword makers use oil to quench the blade). The clay slurry provides heat insulation so that only the blade's edge will be hardened with quenching and it also causes the blade to curve due to reduced lattice strain along the spine. This process also creates the distinct swerving line down the center of the blade called the hamon which can only be seen after it is polished; each hamon is distinct and serves as a katana forger's signature.[4]The hardening of steel involves altering the microstructure or crystalline structure of that material through quenching it from a heat above 800C (1,472F) (bright red glow), ideally no higher than yellow hot. If cooled slowly, the material will break back down into iron and carbon and the molecular structure will return to its previous state. However, if cooled quickly, the steel's molecular structure is permanently altered. The reason for the formation of the curve in a properly hardened Japanese blade is that iron carbide, formed during heating and retained through quenching, has a lesser density than its root materials have separately.[4]After the blade is forged it is then sent to be polished. The polishing takes between one and three weeks. The polisher uses finer and finer grains of polishing stones until the blade has a mirror finish in a process called glazing.[10] This makes the blade extremely sharp and reduces drag making it easier to cut with. The blade curvature also adds to the cutting power.

[edit] Usage

The katana's unique design and in particular its sharpness require quite a few specialized precautions to handle it. Failure to observe these precautions can easily lead to damage to the weapon or severe injury.

[edit] Combat

See also: Battjutsu, Iaid, Iaijutsu, Kenjutsu,and Shinkendo[edit] Storage and maintenance

If mishandled in its storage or maintenance, the katana may become irreparably damaged. The blade should be stored in its sheath, curve down and edge facing upward to maintain the edge. It is extremely important that the blade remain well-oiled, powdered and polished, as the natural moisture residue from the hands of the user will rapidly cause the blade to rust if not cleaned off. The traditional oil used is choji oil (99% mineral oil and 1% clove oil for fragrance). Similarly, when stored for longer periods, it is important that the katana be inspected frequently and aired out if necessary in order to prevent rust or mold from forming (mold may feed off the salts in the oil used to polish the katana).[11][edit] Ownership and trade restrictions

[edit] United Kingdom

As of April 2008, the British government added swords with a curved blade of 50cm (20in) or over in length ("and for the purposes of this sub-paragraph, the length of the blade shall be the straight line distance from the top of the handle to the tip of the blade") to the Offensive Weapons Order.[12] This ban was a response to reports that Samurai swords were used in more than 80 attacks and 4 killings over the 4 preceding years.[13] Those who violate the ban would be jailed up to six months and charged a fine of 5,000. Martial arts practitioners, historical re-enactors and people currently possessing such swords may still own them. The sword can also be legal provided it was made in Japan before 1954, or was made using traditional sword making methods. It is also legal to buy if it can be classed as a 'martial artist's weapon'.[14] This ban applies to England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland.

[edit] Republic of Ireland

As of September 2009, the Republic of Ireland introduced similar laws to the United Kingdom restricting the ownership of swords and other weapons.

[edit] See also

Japanese swords Tatara (furnace) Iaid: Martial art associated with the Katana[edit] Similar Japanese swords

Kodachi, often called by the pseudo-Japanese term chisakatana or kogatana and mistakenly labeled as a katana.

Ninjato, a sword shorter than the katana that has the same size grips but is straighter with a slight curve. The so-called "Ninja Sword". It is also shorter with the same length scabbard as the katana to fool samurai and be drawn quickly with surprise.

Tachi/Nodachi/dachi, often called by the pseudo-Japanese term daikatana and mistakenly labeled as a katana.

Wakizashi, the short blade usually worn along with the katana in a daisho.

Japanese swordsmithing

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Redirected from Katana construction)

This date March 2011 needs additional citations for verification.Please help improve this article by adding reliable references. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (March 2011)

Visual glossary of Japanese sword terms

Japanese swordsmithing is the labour-intensive bladesmithing process developed in Japan for various bladed weapons including, Katana, wakizashi, tanto, yari, naginata, Ya (arrow).

Japanese sword blades were often forged with different profiles, different blade thicknesses, and varying amounts of grind. Wakizashi and tanto were not simply scaled-down katana; they were often forged in hira-zukuri or other such forms which were very rare on katana.

Contents

[hide]

1 Composition

1.1 Tamahagane 1.2 Elemental composition 2 Construction

2.1 Forging 2.2 Assembly 2.3 Geometry (shape and form) 2.4 Heat treating 3 Decoration 4 Polishing 5 Mountings 6 Modern swordsmithing 7 Commercial folded steel swords 8 See also 9 References 10 External links

[edit] Composition

[edit] Tamahagane

Tamahagane (:?) is a type of Japanese steel. Translated as "jewel steel", it is mainly used to make Samurai swords, such as the katana, and some tools. The steel is made from black sand.

Diagram of a tatara and bellows

The smelting process used is different from the modern mass production of steel. A clay vessel about 4ft (1.2m) tall, 12ft (3.7m) long, and 4ft (1.2m) wide is constructed. This is known as a tatara. After the clay tub has set, it is fired until dry. A charcoal fire is started from soft pine charcoal. Then the smelter will wait for the fire to reach the correct temperature. At that point he will direct the addition of iron sand known as satetsu. This will be layered in with more charcoal and more iron sand over the next 72 hours. Four or five people need to constantly work on this process. It takes about a week to build the tatara and complete the iron conversion to steel. When the process is done they will break the clay tub and take out the steel bloom known as a kera. At the end of the process the tatara will have consumed about 10short tons (9.1t) of satetsu and 12short tons (11t) of charcoal leaving about 2.5short tons (2.3t) of kera, from which less than a ton of tamahagane can be produced.[1]

Tamahagane

The swordsmiths will carefully break the kera apart, and separate the various carbon steels. The lowest carbon steel is called hocho-tetsu, which is used for the shingane, (translated as core-steel) of the blade. The high carbon tamahagane and higher carbon steel, called nabe-gane, will then be forged in alternating layers, using very intricate methods to form the kawagane (or, skin steel). The most useful process is the folding, where the metals are forge welded, folded, and welded again, as many as 16 times. The folding removes impurities and helps even out the carbon content, while the alternating layers combine hardness with ductility to create toughness.[2]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana_construction" \l "cite_note-ReferenceA-2" [3]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana_construction" \l "cite_note-samuraisword.com-3" [4] Traditionally, tamahagane is only made three or four times a year by Nittoho and Hitachi Metals[5] during winter in a wood building and is only sold to the master swordsmiths to use once it is made.

[edit] Elemental composition

The composition of steel used for the Japanese sword varied from smith to smith and lode to lode of iron ore. One formula from World War II shin gunt production was as follows:

Elemental composition:

Iron95.22% to 98.12%

Carbon0.10% to 3.00%

Copper1.54%

Manganese0.11%

Tungsten0.05%

Molybdenum0.04%

Titanium0.02%

SiliconVarying amount

Miscellaneous compoundsTrace amount

[edit] Construction

The forging of a Japanese blade typically took many days or weeks, and was considered a sacred art, traditionally accompanied by a large panoply of Shinto religious rituals.[6] As with many complex endeavors, rather than a single craftsman, several artists were involved. There was a smith to forge the rough shape, often a second smith (apprentice) to fold the metal, a specialist polisher, and even a specialist for the edge itself. Often, there were sheath, hilt, and tsuba specialists as well.

The manner of the Japanese sword's construction has influenced the development of Japanese swordsmanshipunlike western fencing, in which the blade edge is used both to strike and to parry, parries in Japanese swordsmanship are made using the sides of the blade, because the extreme hardness and sharpness of the edge will almost always result in chipping or breakage when the edge strikes another edge in a parry.

[edit] Forging

Katana made from tamahagane, showing alternating layers of varying carbon content.

Forge scenes, print from a Edo period book, Switzerland, Museum of Ethnography of Neuchtel

The steel for the swords is produced by smelting iron sand in a large clay furnace called a tatara. The steel bloom, or kera, produced contains steel that varies greatly in carbon content, ranging from wrought iron to pig iron. Three types of steel are chosen for the blade; a very low carbon steel called hocho-tetsu is used for the core of the blade, called the shingane. The high carbon steel, called tamahagane, and the remelted pig iron, called nabe-gane,[7] are combined to form the outer skin of the blade, called kawagane.[3]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana_construction" \l "cite_note-hitachi-metals.co.jp-7" [8]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana_construction" \l "cite_note-8" [9] Only about 1/3 of the kera produces steel that is suitable for sword production.[10]The best known part of the manufacturing process is the folding of the steel, where the swords are made by repeatedly heating, hammering and folding the metal. Frequently attributed to specific Japanese smiths in legend, the process of folding metal to improve strength and remove impurities, along with other steel technologies such as differential hardening, were well known in China since at least the Han Dynasty, and it is most likely that the method was introduced to Japan during the Tang Dynasty, when the Japanese made a strong effort to recruit Chinese smiths and other craftsmen, and the period during which many fables attribute the invention of the process to some Japanese smith or another. Furthermore, the repeated heating and folding of steel for swords was found in many other cultures. Its effectiveness in purifying and homogenizing the steel, creating higher quality swords than the quality of the available steel would otherwise have allowed, and the fact that it was found in a wide variety of cultures, seems to suggest that folding was discovered separately in a number of instances and did not necessarily have one single origin.

In traditional Japanese sword making, the low carbon hocho-tetsu is folded several times by itself, to purify it. This produces the soft metal, called shingane, to be used for the core of the blade. The high carbon tamahagane and the higher carbon nabe-gane are then forged in alternating layers. The nabe-gane is heated, quenched in water, and then broken into small pieces to help free it from slag. The tamahagane is then forged into a single plate, and the pieces of nabe-gane are piled on top, and the whole thing is forge welded into a single block, which is called the age-kitae process. The block is then elongated, cut, folded, and forge welded again. The steel can be folded transversely, (from front to back), or longitudinally, (from side to side). Often both folding directions are used to produce the desired grain pattern.[4] This process, called the shita-kitae, is repeated from 8 to as many as 16 times. After 20 foldings, (220, or about a million individual layers), there is too much diffusion in the carbon content, the steel becomes almost homogenous in this respect, and the act of folding no longer gives any benefit to the steel.[11] Depending on the amount of carbon introduced, this process forms either the very hard steel for the edge, called hagane, or the slightly less hardenable spring steel, called kawagane, which is often used for the sides and the back.[4]During the last few foldings, the steel may be forged into several thin plates, stacked, and forge welded into a brick. The grain of the steel is carefully positioned between adjacent layers, with the exact configuration dependent on the part of the blade for which the steel will be used. Between each heating and folding, the steel is coated in a mixture of clay, water and straw-ash to protect it from oxidation and carburization. The clay, in turn, acts as a flux, pulling impurities out from between the layers.[3]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana_construction" \l "cite_note-samuraisword.com-3" [4]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana_construction" \l "cite_note-hitachi-metals.co.jp-7" [8] This practice became popular due to the use of highly impure metals, stemming from the low temperature yielded in the smelting at that time and place. The folding did several things:

Blacksmith scene, print from a Edo period book, Museum of Ethnography of Neuchtel, Switzerland.

It provided alternating layers of differing hardenability. During quenching, the high carbon layers achieve greater hardness than the medium carbon layers. The hardness of the high carbon steels combine with the ductility of the low carbon steels to form the property of toughness.[2]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana_construction" \l "cite_note-ReferenceB-9" [10] It eliminated any voids in the metal.

It homogenized the metal, spreading the elements (such as carbon) evenly throughout - increasing the effective strength by decreasing the number of potential weak points.

It burned off many impurities, helping to overcome the poor quality of the raw Japanese steel.

It created up to 65000 layers, by continuously decarburizing the surface and bringing it into the blade's interior, which gives the swords their grain (for comparison see pattern welding).

Generally, swords were created with the grain of the blade (called hada) running down the blade like the grain on a plank of wood. Straight grains were called masame-hada, wood-like grain itame, wood-burl grain mokume, and concentric wavy grain (an uncommon feature seen almost exclusively in the Gassan school) ayasugi-hada. The difference between the first three grains is that of cutting a tree along the grain, at an angle, and perpendicular to its direction of growth (mokume-gane) respectively, the angle causing the "stretched" pattern. The blades that were considered the most robust, reliable, and of highest quality were those made in the Mino tradition, especially those of Magoroku Kanemoto. Bizen tradition, which specialized in mokume, and some schools of Yamato tradition were also considered strong warrior's weapons.[citation needed][edit] Assembly

In addition to folding the steel, high quality Japanese swords are also composed of various distinct sections of different types of steel. Known in China as bao gang (literally "wrapped steel") since at least the Tang Dynasty, this manufacturing technique uses different types of steel in different parts of the sword to accentuate the desired characteristics in various parts of the sword beyond the level offered by differentiated tempering.

The vast majority of modern katana and wakizashi are the maru (sometimes also called muku) type which is the most basic, with the entire sword being composed of one single steel. The kobuse type is made using two steels, which are called hagane (edge steel) and shingane (core steel). Honsanmai and shihozume types add the third steel, called kawagane (skin steel). There are almost an infinite number of ways the steel could be assembled, which often varied considerably from smith to smith.[3] Sometimes the hagane is "drawn out," (hammered into a bar), bent into a 'U' shaped trough, and the very soft shingane is inserted into the harder piece. Then they are forge welded together and hammered into the basic shape of the sword. By the end of the process, the two pieces of steel are fused together, but retain their differences in hardenability.[2]

HYPERLINK "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katana_construction" \l "cite_note-ReferenceA-2" [3] The more complex types of construction are typically only found in antique weapons, with the vast majority of modern weapons being composed of a single section, or at most two or three sections.

Another way is to assemble the different pieces into a block, forge weld it together, and then draw out the steel into a sword so that the correct steel ends up in the desired place.[4] This method is often used for the complex models, which allow for parrying without fear of damaging the side of the blade. To make honsanmai or shihozume types, pieces of hard steel are added to the outside of the blade in a similar fashion. The shihozume and soshu types are quite rare, but added a rear support.

[edit] Geometry (shape and form)

This section does not cite any references or sources.Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (November 2010)

A range of Japanese sword types, from left to right: Naginata, Tsurugi or ken, Tant, Uchigatana and Tachi.

As Japan entered the bronze age, the swords found in Japan were very similar in shape to those found in continental Asia, i.e., China or Korea, and the Japanese adopted the Chinese convention for sword terminology along with metallurgy and swordmaking technology, classifying swords into the (either straight or curved) single-edged variety called tou and the (straight) double-edged variety called ken . There is some small overlap in that there were some double-edged curved swords such as Tulwars or Scimitars which were called Tou, because the curvature meant that the "front" edge was used in the overwhelming majority of instances.

Over time, however, the single-edged sword with its characteristic curvature became so dominant a style in Japan that tou and ken came to be used interchangeably to refer to swords in Japan and by others to refer to Japanese swords. For example, the Japanese typically refer to Japanese swords as nihontou ("Japanese tou" i.e. "Japanese (single-edged) sword"), while the character ken is used in such terms as kendo and kenjutsu. Modern formal usage often uses both characters in referring to a collection of swords, for example, in naming the The Japanese Sword Museum .

The prototype of the Japanese sword was the chokuto , or "straight (single-edged) sword", a design that can be fairly described as a Japanese sword without any curvature, with a handle that is usually only a few inches long and therefore suitable for single-handed use only, with a sword guard that is prominent only on the front (where the edge is pointed) and back sides and sometimes only on the front side of the sword blade, and with a ring pommel. This design was moderately common in China and Korea during the Warring States and Han Dynasties, fading from popularity and disappearing during the Tang Dynasty. A number of such swords have been excavated in Japan from graves dating back to the kofun period.

As the chokuto evolved into the Japanese sword as it is known today, it acquired its characteristic curvature and Japanese style fittings, including the long handle making it suitable for either one-handed or two-handed use, the non-protruding pommel, and a tsuba sword guard that protruded from the sword in all directions, i.e., that is not a cross piece or a guard for the edge or edge and back sides of the blade only but a guard intended to protect the hand on all sides of the blade. The shape of the Japanese tsuba evolved in parallel with Japanese swordsmithing and Japanese swordsmanship. As Japanese swordsmiths acquired the ability to achieve an extremely hard edge, Japanese swordsmanship evolved to protect the edge against chipping, notching, and breakage by parrying with the sides or backs of swords, avoiding edge-to-edge contact. This in turn resulted in the need to protect the sword hand from a sliding blade in parries on the sides and backs, i.e., parts of the blade other than the edge side, forming the rationale behind the Japanese styled tsuba, which protrudes from the blade in every direction.

This style of parrying in Japanese swordsmanship has also resulted in some antique swords that have actually been used in battle, exhibiting notches on the sides or backs of blades.

[edit] Heat treating

This section does not cite any references or sources.Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (November 2010)

Having a single edge also has certain advantages, one of the most important being that the entire rest of the sword can be used to reinforce and support the edge, and the Japanese style of sword making takes full advantage of this. When finished, the steel is not quenched or tempered in the conventional European fashion i.e. uniformly throughout the blade. Steels exact flex and strength vary dramatically with heat treating. If steel cools quickly it becomes martensite, which is very hard but brittle. Slower and it becomes pearlite, which bends easily and does not hold an edge. To maximize both the cutting edge and the resilience of the sword spine, the technique of differentiated tempering, first found in China during the first century BC, is used: the sword is heated and painted with layers of claythe mixture being closely guarded trade secrets of the various smiths, but generally containing clay and coal ash as the primary ingredientswith a thin layer or none at all on the edge of the sword ensuring quick cooling to maximize the hardening for the edge, while a thicker layer of clay on the rest of the blade causing slower cooling and softer, more resilient steel to allow the blade to absorb shock without breaking.

This process also has two side effects that have come to characterize Japanese swordsfirst, it makes the edge of the blade, which cools quickly and form martensite molecules, which will actually cause the edge part of the blade to expand while the sword spine remains hot and pliable for several seconds, which aids the smith in establishing the curvature of the blade. Second, the differentiated heat treatment and the materials with which the steel comes into contact creates different coloration in the steel, resulting in the Hamon (frequently translated as "tempering line" but really better translated as "tempering pattern"), that is used as a factor to judge both the quality and beauty of the finished blade. The differentiated Hamon patterns resulting from the manner in which the clay is applied can also act as an indicator of the style of sword making, and sometimes also as a signature for the individual smith.

[edit] Decoration

Antique Japanese wakizashi sword blade showing the horimono of a chrysanthemum.

A section of an antique Japanese katana showing two grooves hi and the temper line hamon.

Almost all blades are decorated, although not all blades are decorated on the visible part of the blade. Once the blade is cool, and the mud is scraped off, the blade has designs and grooves cut into it. One of the most important markings on the sword is performed here: the file markings. These are cut into the tang, or the hilt-section of the blade, where they will be covered by a hilt later. The tang is never supposed to be cleaned: doing this can cut the value of the sword in half or more. The purpose is to show how well the blade steel ages. A number of different types of file markings are used, including horizontal, slanted, and checked, known as ichi-monji, ko-sujikai, sujikai, -sujikai, katte-agari, shinogi-kiri-sujikai, taka-no-ha, and gyaku-taka-no-ha. A grid of marks, from raking the file diagonally both ways across the tang, is called higaki, whereas specialized "full dress" file marks are called kesho-yasuri. Lastly, if the blade is very old, it may have been shaved instead of filed. This is called sensuki. While ornamental, these file marks also serve the purpose of providing an uneven surface which bites well into the tsuka, or the hilt which fits over it and is made from wood. It is this pressure fit for the most part that holds the tsuka in place during the strike, while the mekugi pin serves as a secondary method and a safety.

Some other marks on the blade are aesthetic: signatures and dedications written in kanji and engravings depicting gods, dragons, or other acceptable beings, called horimono. Some are more practical. The presence of a so-called "blood groove" or fuller does not in actuality allow blood to flow more freely from cuts made with the sword. Fullers neither have a demonstrable difference in the ease of withdrawing a blade nor do they reduce the sucking sound that many people believe was the reason for including such a feature in commando knives in World War II.[12] The grooves are analogous in structure to an I beam, lessening the weight of the sword yet keeping structural integrity and strength.[12] Grooves come in wide (bo-hi), twin narrow (futasuji-hi), twin wide and narrow (bo-hi ni tsure-hi), short (koshi-hi), twin short (gomabushi), twin long with joined tips (shobu-hi), twin long with irregular breaks (kuichigai-hi), and halberd-style (naginata-hi).

Furthermore the grooves (always done on both sides of the blade) make a whistling sound when the sword is swung (the tachikaze ). If the swordsman hears one whistle when swinging a grooved katana then that means that just one groove is making the whistle. Two whistles means that both the edge of the blade and a groove are making a whistle, and three whistles together (the blade edge and both grooves) would tell the swordsman that his blade is perfectly angled with the direction of the cut.

[edit] Polishing

Japanese sword blade and sharpening stone and water bucket at 2008 Cherry Blossom Festival, Seattle Center, Seattle, Washington.

For more details on this topic, see Japanese sword polishing.

When the rough blade is completed, the swordsmith turns the blade over to a polisher called a togishi, whose job it is to refine the shape of a blade and improve its aesthetic value. The entire process takes considerable time, in some cases easily up to several weeks. Early polishers used three types of stone, whereas a modern polisher generally uses seven. The modern high level of polish was not normally done before around 1600, since greater emphasis was placed on function over form. The polishing process almost always takes longer than even crafting, and a good polish can greatly improve the beauty of a blade, while a bad one can ruin the best of blades. More importantly, inexperienced polishers can permanently ruin a blade by badly disrupting its geometry or wearing down too much steel, both of which effectively destroy the sword's monetary, historic, artistic, and functional value.

[edit] Mountings

For more details on this topic, see Japanese sword mountings.

In Japanese, the scabbard for a katana is referred to as a saya, and the handguard piece, often intricately designed as an individual work of art especially in later years of the Edo period was called the tsuba. Other aspects of the mountings (koshirae), such as the menuki (decorative grip swells), habaki (blade collar and scabbard wedge), fuchi and kashira (handle collar and cap), kozuka (small utility knife handle), kogai (decorative skewer-like implement), saya lacquer, and tsuka-ito (professional handle wrap, also named emaki), received similar levels of artistry.

After the blade is finished it is passed on to a mountings-maker, or sayashi (literally "Sheath Maker" but referring to those who make fittings in general). Sword mountings vary in their exact nature depending on the era, but generally consist of the same general idea, with the variation being in the components used and in the wrapping style. The obvious part of the hilt consists of a metal or wooden grip called a tsuka, which can also be used to refer to the entire hilt. The hand guard, or tsuba, on Japanese swords (except for certain twentieth century sabers which emulate Western navies') is small and round, made of metal, and often very ornate. (See koshirae.)

There is a pommel at the base known as a kashira, and there is often a decoration under the braided wrappings called a menuki. A bamboo peg called a mekugi is slipped through the tsuka and through the tang of the blade, using the hole called a mekugi-ana ("peg hole") drilled in it. This anchors the blade securely into the hilt. To anchor the blade securely into the sheath it will soon have, the blade acquires a collar, or habaki, which extends an inch or so past the hand guard and keeps the blade from rattling.

The sheaths themselves are not an easy task. There are two types of sheaths, both of which require exacting work to create. One is the shirasaya, which is generally made of wood and considered the "resting" sheath, used as a storage sheath. The other sheath is the more decorative or battle-worthy sheath which is usually called either a jindachi-zukuri, if suspended from the obi (belt) by straps (tachi-style), or a buke-zukuri sheath if thrust through the obi (katana-style). Other types of mounting include the ky-gunt, shin-gunt, and kai-gunt types for the twentieth-century military.

[edit] Modern swordsmithing

This article may contain original research. Please improve it by verifying the claims made and adding references. Statements consisting only of original research may be removed. More details may be available on the talk page. (September 2007)

Traditional swords are still made in Japan and occasionally elsewhere; they are termed "shinsakuto" or "shinken" (true sword), and can be very expensive. These are not considered reproductions as they are made by traditional techniques and from traditional materials. Swordsmiths in Japan are licensed; acquiring this license requires a long apprenticeship. Outside of Japan there are a couple of smiths working by traditional or mostly-traditional techniques, and occasional short courses taught in Japanese swordsmithing.[13] The only two Japanese-licensed smiths outside of Japan are, Keith Austin (art-name Nobuhira or Nobuyoshi) died in 1997, and 17th Generation Yoshimoto Bladesmith Murray Carter.[14]A very large number of low-quality reproduction katana and wakizashi are available; their prices usually range between $10 to about $200. These cheap blades are Japanese in shape onlythey are usually machine made and machine sharpened, and minimally hardened or heat-treated. The hamon pattern (if any) on the blade is applied by scuffing, etching or otherwise marking the surface, without any difference in hardness or temper of the edge.[15] The metal used to make low-quality blades is mostly cheap stainless steel, and typically is much harder and more brittle than true katana. Finally, cheap reproduction Japanese swords usually have fancy designs on them since they are just for show. Better-quality reproduction katana typically range from $200 to about $1000 (though some can go easily above two thousand for quality production blades, folded and often traditionally constructed and with a proper polish [16]), and high-quality or custom-made reproductions can go up to $15000-$50000.[17] These blades are made to be used for cutting, and are usually heat-treated. High-quality reproductions made from carbon steel will often have a differential hardness or temper similar to traditionally-made swords, and will show a hamon; they won't show a hada (grain), since they're not often made from folded steel.

A wide range of steels are used in reproductions, ranging from carbon steels such as 1020, 1040, 1060, 1070, 1095, and 5160, stainless steels such as 400, 420, 440, to high-end specialty steels such as L6 and D2. Most cheap reproductions are made from inexpensive stainless steels such as 440A (often just termed "440").[18] With a normal Rockwell hardness of 56 and up to 60, stainless steel is much harder than the back of a differentially hardened katana, (HR50), and is therefore much more prone to breaking, especially when used to make long blades. Stainless steel is also much softer at the edge (a traditional katana is usually more than HR60 at the edge). Furthermore, cheap swords designed as wall-hanging or sword rack decorations often also have a "rat-tail" tang, which is a thin, usually threaded bolt of metal welded onto the blade at the hilt area. These are a major weak point and often break at the weld, resulting in an extremely dangerous and unreliable sword.[19]Some modern swordsmiths have made high quality reproduction swords using the traditional method, including one Japanese swordsmith who began manufacturing swords in Thailand using traditional methods, and various American and Chinese manufacturers. These however will always be different from Japanese swords made in Japan, as it is illegal to export the Tamahagane jewel steel as such without it having been made into value-added products first. Nevertheless, some manufacturers have made differentially tempered swords folded in the traditional method available for relatively little money (often one to three thousand dollars), and differentially tempered, non-folded steel swords for several hundred. Some practicing martial artists prefer modern swords, whether of this type or made in Japan by Japanese craftsmen, because many of them cater to martial arts demonstrations by designing "extra light" swords which can be maneuvered relatively faster for longer periods of time, or swords specifically designed to perform well at cutting practice targets, with thinner blades and either razor-like flat-ground edges or even a hollow ground edges.

[edit] Commercial folded steel swords

In recent years, as the public has become more aware of the Japanese style of sword making, many companies have begun to offer folded steel swords, typically marketing them as "damascus" swords, which usually command higher prices than their non-folded equivalents. Many people are willing to pay a premium for such blades in the belief that any folded blade will be superior in performance and quality to any non-folded blade, but in fact it is just the reversea low quality folded sword is actually much more likely to contain metallurgical flaws than a sword made from a single piece of steel that came off the line in a modern steel plant, and any flaws would significantly increase the likelihood of breakage at the moment of contact. Add to this the lack of differentiated heat treatment, which already renders the blade brittle compared to a traditional Japanese sword or even a Western-style sword (which would typically not be tempered to as high a hardness due to expectations of striking metal armor), and the result is a sword that would be much more likely to break or shatter at the moment of contact, even for demonstration or "test" cutting, making the use of such a sword potentially highly hazardous to the wielder and any bystanders, as any breakage at the moment of contact will result in sharpened metal flying at unpredictable directions with the force of the blow.

Sword manufacturers marketing such low end folded swords tend to choose softer steels such as 1020 or 400 for this purpose, since they are easier to work and fold, and will also often attempt to enhance the appearance of the folding layers by making comparatively few folds (thus leaving thicker folds), folding soft iron with steel, folding stainless steel with non-stainless steel, using an acid wash to blacken the folds that are less corrosion resistant, or some combination of these techniques, resulting in a blade with extremely prominent folding marks. Where the acid wash technique is used, the blade will be various shades of gray and black. and frequently exhibit no hamon tempering line. It must be noted that all swords made by the traditional Japanese method, regardless of the quality or assembly type, results in a bright and shiny blade upon completion, and therefore any blade that is black or gray in color when new absolutely cannot have been made in the traditional manner of the Japanese swordsmiths.

Commercial folded steel swords can also made by stamping. In this method, steel is heated and folded in a sheet large enough to make multiple swords from, and then cut or "stamped" into long "blanks" somewhat resembling the shape of the blade. The blanks are then ground down to form the edges, exposing the folds. Due the comparative ease of manufacturing and greater efficiency (in the sense that less of the sheet tends to be lost during the stamping process), this method is most commonly seen in the manufacture of straight "damascus steel" swords such as sword canes and what are often called "double-edged samurai swords" but which are really just Chinese-style ken swords with Japanese-style fittings. The physical act of the stamping alters the molecular structure at the location of the cut, which can cause deterioration in the quality of the steel in subtle ways. While it is possible to adjust for this by simply grinding down the edges further and removing the portion of the blade that has had its molecular structure thus disturbed, it is doubtful that a manufacturer that has sought to reduce cost and production time by stamping folded sheet steel would then go through such additional efforts and costs to improve the quality of the blade. In any case, even if the stamped edge is ground away, what one is left with is still a low quality blade.

Regardless of the price or the production method of the sword, it is worthwhile to remember that the choice of materials and manufacturing techniques based on the desired appearance, rather than the performance of the resulting product will predictably result in swords which are serviceable for display only in the vast majority of instances.Tatara (furnace)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The structure of a tatara. On the two sides of the furnace are visible two bellows

The tatara (?) is the traditional Japanese furnace used for smelting iron and steel.

The word originally meant just foot bellows, but its use was later extended to the whole furnace. The two Chinese characters used when the word has the original meaning are and, besides as tatara, they can be also read as fumifuigo, or foot bellows.

The word later came to mean also the entire building housing the furnace.

The steel, or tamahagane (?), used in the forging of Japanese swords (nihont (?), commonly known as katana (?)) by contemporary Japanese forge masters like Kihara Akira and Gassan Sadatoshi is still smelted in a tatara. One of the few remaining tatara is the Nittoho tatara in Shimane Prefecture, Japan.

The smelting process used is different from that of the modern mass production of steel. A clay vessel about 1.1 meters (4 feet) tall, 3 meters (12 feet) long, and 1.1 meters (4 feet wide) is constructed. This is the tatara. After the clay tub has dried, it is fired until dry. A charcoal fire is started from soft pine charcoal, then the smelter will wait for the fire to reach the correct temperature. At that point, he will direct the addition of ironsand, known as satetsu. This will be layered in with more charcoal and more ironsand over the next 72 hours. 4 or 5 people need to constantly work on this process.

It takes about a week to build the tatara and complete the iron conversion to steel. When the process is done, they will break the clay tub and take out the steel bloom, known as a kera. At the end of the process, the tatara will have consumed about 10 tons of satetsu and 12 tons of charcoal, leaving about 2.5 tons of tamahagane.

[edit] The Nittoho TataraIn 1977, the Japanese Society for Preservation of Japanese Art Swords (Nittoho), together with the Japanese government's Agency for Cultural Affairs and Hitachi Works, built in Shimane Prefecture the so-called Nittoho Tatara to provide the steel necessary for the production of Japanese swords. The Nittoho Tatara is managed jointly with Yasugi Works, a subsidiary company of Hitachi Metals, and is operational only during the winter.Brandon Sword- site newsDesign of the blade

Basic blade styleMaru:

Mono steel blade. A single bar of steel hammered, cut and shaped. Water / oil quenched and heat treated. Making hand forged swords more accessible to the average martial artist and collector.

Mono Steel Idea for solo form, kata practice and display. Mono Steel blades do not have the cutting ability of other swords and are more likely to sustain damage because of the softer steel used. Oil Quenched, edge rigidity 48 HRC, Body hardness 48 HRC. Mono Steel #45 hamon A stronger steel than standard Mono Steel. This blade option is heat treated with an application of clay to produce a hard edge and beautiful hamon, making this option more suited to cutting practice. Water quenched, edge rigidity 60 HRC, body hardness 41 HRC Mono Steel #60 hamon A stronger steel than #45 allowing for the use of tougher cutting materials during practice. Has similar cutting properties to traditional Japanese swords Sanmai Steel Blades Three layer construction. The core is high carbon steel, sandwiched between two outer layers of softer steel. This gives the blade a hard cutting edge whilst retaining the flexibility to absorb impact and prevent blade damage. Sanmai constructions are water quenched and heat treated during the forging process. Sanmai folded steel to 4,000 layers Also know as Pattern welded steel but more controversially Damascus folded steel, Damascened steel and sometimes watered steel. The Sanmai folded steel construction is made of a core 1050 carbon steel, wrapped around an outer steel of mild carbon steel and mid carbon steel. The outer steel is folded to produce attributes of strength and flexibility in the blade. A by-product of this forging technique is the beautiful wood grain appearance on the blade. Edge rigidity 57 HRC. Sanmai folded steel to 8.000 layers The increased number of folds allows the sword more flexibility whilst retaining its strength. The wood grain pattern becomes more compacted than lesser folded swords. Edge rigidity 57 HRC Sanmai folded steel to 16,000 layers More flexibility than 8,000 and 4,000 layer blades. With a further compacted wood grain pattern. A core steel of 1050 carbon steel with an outer steel of mid carbon steel and raw steel. Edge rigidity 57 HRC

Sanmai folded steel to 32,000 layers Hand forged and hand folded with differential hardening by applications of clay. This is the ultimate choice between strength, flexibility and beauty. The Sanmai construction of folded steel wrapped around a hard inner carbon steel core gives this blade incredible strength when cutting. The edge is damage resistant minimising wear to the sword. The high count of layer folds give the sword added impact absorbance. This reduces shock to the hands and potential blade breakage. A core steel of 1060 carbon steel with an outer steel of high carbon steel and raw steel. Edge rigidity 60 HRC

Traditional Japanese sword styleKobuse Kobuse have similar properties to the Sanmai construction. They both use a soft steel to give the blade properties of flexibility and shock absorbance. They also use a harder material to give strength to the blade. The difference being that the outer layer is heat treated with an application of clay producing a hard edge and hamon. The Kobuse utilises 1050 carbon steel wrapped around a soft iron core for shock absorption and protection of the hardened edge. Water quenched and differentially hardened by an application of clay. 57 HRC Hon Sanmai Similar in construction to sanmai but with a separate core and edge steel. The core steel is soft iron for better shock absorption. The outer steel allowing the blade to flex instead of shattering on impact. The edge steel is high carbon steel, creating an extremely hard edge that is resistant to dulling. Water quenched and heat treated. Edge rigidity 60 HRC, body hardness 45 HRC. Advanced blade styleShihozume Made using four different types of steel for maximum strength, flexibility and cutting edge. The core is soft iron giving a solid feeling to the black and acting as a shock absorbent. The outer steel is folded steel giving the blade flexibility needed to stop it from shattering. The edge is high carbon steel resistant to impact and damage. The back steel is mid carbon steel providing a strong yet also flexible spine for the blade structure. Differentially hardened to produce the strong hamon and water quenched. Soshu-kitaeBlade forged by several different laminations. This type of blade have a extremely superior quality whose forging needs a incredible complicated technique. A real perfect artof manufacturation of master,whowas said to be a technique of God and isnearly disappeared in this modern world.The steps below illustrate the main stages in creating a katana

A wall hanging display is available which contains blades from each stage of the creation process, see below for more information

1) Rough Forging

The blade is formed by hot forging a billet of high-carbon steel. The repeated hammering provides an even dispersion of carbon throughout the steel for uniform strength of the finished blade.

2) Rough Shaping

The scale is removed and the blade is shaped roughly to the required dimensions. At this stage, the steel is still in the annealed (soft) state and the blade is straight.

3) Clay Covering

A special clay is applied to the blade by hand, using a thin covering near the edge and a thicker layer over the rest of the blade. This results in a relatively quicker cooling of the edge during quenching, producing a hard edge and softer back.

4) Quenching

This is a critical part of the operation. The blade, with its clay covering, is heated to a predetermined temperature and quenched in a water bath. The shape and continuity of the hamon, the sori (blade curvature), and blade straightness are all determined by the care and skill exercised in quenching.

5) Sizing

The sori is adjusted if necessary, to set the point of balance and point of percussion, and de-scaled. Rough polishing is carried out to size the blade accurately. The habaki (blade collar) is fitted.

6) Finishing

Careful final polishing and fine finish work are carried out on the various surfaces to define ridgelines and bring out the beauty of the hamon.

Saya

The saya is carved from two pieces of wood to match the length, width, thickness and curvature of the finished blade. The two halves are then wrapped in cambric and lacquered numerous times. Final polishing gives the saya finish a high gloss.

Handle

The handle core is comprised of two pieces of hardwood carved to tightly fit onto the tang. Channels are carved into the sides to facilitate two panels of ray skin. The entire handle is then wrapped with high quality woven cotton while small paper triangles are used to help shape the wrap correctly. The Menuki and Kashira are added during this process.

Sageo

The sageo is typically woven of high quality cotton to match the handle wrap. In some cases, the sageo is still woven by hand (see Paper Crane next page), this process requires many hours of skilled hand labor but allows thematic designs to be carried into the sageo.

Assembly

Finally all the pieces can be assembled and the handle securely fastened to the tang. This is accomplished with the addition of two bamboo pegs through the handle and tang.

Parts of a Samurai Sword

The large image below details every part of a samurai sword, giving the traditional name and the english translation

Katana Forging Process Display (OH2154)

This is an elegant display articulating the highly skilled process of forging and polishing a high carbon steel Katana blade. Each step in the process is clearly displayed and explained, using smaller (18) versions of Katana blades that have undergone exactly the same processes as full-sized blades. This display is both aesthetically pleasing and highly educational.

Katana Made in China:

"A Peek Behind the Bamboo Curtain"

In this Article, Chris Scoggin from Ronin Katana has a candid talk with one of the senior smiths at a Longquan based Chinese forge. An extremely eye opening and revealing behind the scenes look at what goes into making low to medium cost functional Katana in China today.

INTERVIEW WITH A CHINESE KATANA MAKING FORGE

Chris From Ronin: How are your smiths and polishers trained?The Forge: Mainly from the old and famous swordsmith. And then develop by the help of books and the web.

Chris From Ronin: What do you mean by "old and famous sword smith"? The Forge: Yes, they are trained. As you may know, in China, if you want to learn how to make swords, you must find a famous sword smith and beg him to be your master worker. If he think that you are proper and honest, he will agree, then you must learn it for 3 years. During this period of time, you must work hard and learn everything. If you study and work hard, the master will teach you the secret and real and useful skills, if you are not, he won't teach the secret and complexed skills, otherwise, you will effect his reputation.

So once the pupils work hard and finished learning three years, he must have learned all the skills. He knows everything, if we employ a smith, we must test him to see if he is skilled. Of course, during the work, he will improve a lot by meeting the customers' request. There is a sword association in this city, they have regular meetings to communicate each other. By this way,the tradtional skills are kept.

Chris From Ronin: Are any of your smiths considered Master Smiths? Do they have apprentices? At what age can a person become an apprentice? Can a woman become a sword smith?The Forge: Yes, there are two smiths considered master smiths, it is awarded first by the city, then by the province, now they are studying hard and applying for the national awards. It will take about 15 years when the final award is issued. They have appentices.

Chris From Ronin:At what age can a person become an apprentice? Can a woman become a sword smith?The Forge: Once a person is over 18 years,he can be an apprentice. For the moment, no women become a sword smith, for forging need hard work..

Chris From Ronin: How do you train your sword smiths?The Forge: There is an association for swordsmith, also cooperate with the university, they helped us a lot in the skills.

Chris From Ronin: Can you explain what the association is? When was it founded?The Forge: It is Longquan sword association, only the famous sword smith and companies can become a member. It was founded at the beginning of 1990, when the govenment made the effort to promote this traditional skills.

Chris From Ronin: How many members does it have? How exactly do they help you? What is the name of the university?The Forge: At present, it has about 80 members. We are finding a way to cooperate with the university and want the univercity help us in designing and overtake the problems for breakage during forging, for they know the ecense of each steel, there is a project is applying, hope it will approved soon, that is find an easy way to forge tamahagane steel. The university is Zhejiang University.

Chris From Ronin: Have you sent any of your smiths or polishers to Japan for training?The Forge: No, they won't teach you the real skills, can do it after study the real samples. We have much experience in them, easy to learn and study.

Chris From Ronin: Are the blades you study made in Japan? Are they older, pre-war blades?The Forge: Yes,some of the blades are made in Japan,some of them are made by Pau Chen,we have samples in our showroom.Some of the blade is older,for samurai blade,not so old,the Chinese sword blade is much older,more than 1000 years.

Chris From Ronin: Have you studied the blades of any famous sword smiths? Which Japanese sword smith has most influenced the smiths at your factory? When studying a sword, have you ever had to cut it in half to study the layers? If so, how many swords, and were they older swords?The Forge: We do not know the Japanese sword smith name, for the handle is rusted. We cut the blade in many parts to test the steel type, hardness and flexibility by the help of the univercity, they have the instuments. We do not have the chance to cut the older sword, for they are expensive and hard to get it. As you may know, Japanese learn making swords from China in Chinese Tang Dynasty, so it is easy to find the secret of the blade.

Chris From Ronin: How long does it take to forge a sword blade?The Forge: Depend on the material and lamination of the blade, from 1 or 2 hours to 10 days.

Chris From Ronin: Which lamination method takes the longest? Which lamination method is the most popular with your customers?The Forge: Soshu Kitae lamination takes the longest time,and it is the most popular for the customer, but for it, Hon Sanmai and Kobuse are also popular.

Chris From Ronin: Does lamination produce a higher quality blade than a blade that has just been clayed? Is it possible to laminate and blade and then water quench it (through harden it) without claying the blade? Is that type of blade safe to use in a dojo against targets like bamboo?The Forge: If a blade is forged with laminated blade, it will have a good hardness and flexibility. For the laminated blade, it must be clay-tempered and water quench, otherwise, the hardness is not good. That type of steel is the best for dojo and cutting test.

Chris From Ronin: Does your factory water quench (through hardened) only 1045 and 1060 steel, or do you also water quench 1095 steel?The Forge: We harden our blade by water quench, for 1095, it still need water quench. 1095 is be idea steel for clay-temper, not so hard when forging, and can become the hardest one after clay-temper.

Chris From Ronin: How often does a blade crack in quenching? What do you do with the cracked blade?The Forge: It usually will be cracked, that's why the price is much higher than others. At present, since we make many pcs per year, the temperature is controlled well, not so many pcs to be cracked as before. The cracked ones are useless.

Chris From Ronin: In your opinion, which type of blade is stronger against harder targets like bamboo?The Forge: In my opinion, for cutting practice, carbon steel 1060 will be the best steel. For martial practice and martial cutting test, the laminated blade will be the best, for they are hardest with good flexibility.

Chris From Ronin: Tamahagane blades are very expensive to make. Does your factory make the tamahagane the same way the Japanese do? How long does it take to make one tamahagane blade?The Forge: Yes, we make the tamahagane the same way the Japanese do. It will take about 25 days to make one blade, it usually takes much more time in polishing.

Chris From Ronin: What are your quality control methods?The Forge: Internal traditional one, are applying for ISO for we are building our new company, then it will meet the modern requirements for authentic.

Chris From Ronin: I don't really understand your answer, could you explain it a little better. What is an ISO, and what are you building? Does this involve new equipment?The Forge: We have an inhouse quality control system. Each procedure is strictly inspected, For ISO, it is the international quality control system. When it is approved, the quality will be guaranteed. The new company is finished, we arrange for production in details, all the procedures are recorded by computer.

Chris From Ronin:Thanks for your time and insight.The Forge:No problem.