Kaleidoscope

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009 Luxury desert lodge Which iPhone add-on? Special Pull-out Section: Education Plants need love, too Junko Koshino interview

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Tokyo Life Style Magazine

Transcript of Kaleidoscope

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SECTIONDetails

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009

Luxury desert lodge

Which iPhone add-on?

Special Pull-out Section: Education

Plants need love, too

Junko Koshino interview

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Published by: Paradigm, Kamiyama Ambassador 209, 18-6 Kamiyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0047, Japan. Tel: (03) 5478-7941, Fax: (03) 5478-7942, E-mail: [email protected]: Vickie Paradise Green | Editor-in-Chief: Simon Farrell | Editor: David Umeda | Creative Director: Richard Grehan | Art Director: Akiko Mineshima

Editorial Researcher: Francesca Penazzi | Advertising Sales: Eileen Chang, Sarit Huys, Helene Jacquet, Leai Kubotsuka

A look into life’s dazzling diversity

contentsJanuary/february 2009 – Volume 5, Issue 1

DESTINATIONSMongolian Oasis 6

By Nicole Fall

Even a brief stay at Mongolia’s most luxurious

lodge in “Asia’s Serengeti” offers wilderness,

tradition and adventure.

REGULARS SpEcIAL SEcTIONFROM THE EDITOR’S DESK 3

cHOIcE cHOIcES 4Buffet brunch. Serviced apartments.

Internal beauty. Italian dining.

INTERNATIONAL ScHOOLS

By David Umeda

The Value of an International School Experience.

TEcHNOLOGYiphone Extras 15

By Catherine Shaw

Here’s a selection of the ever-widening selection

of iPhone accessories and applications and how

to use them.

ARTS & cULTUREFloating Art 18

By Margaret Pointer

Woodblock prints of simple everyday working life

in a past era of isolation are now sought after by

collectors and dealers of Japan’s fine arts.

DININGItalian Renaissance 11

By Karryn Miller

The bad old days of Italian cuisine in Tokyo are

gone as authentic chefs and a “Little Italy” replace

rubbery pasta and clichéd décor.

TRENDSReborn to be Wild 23

By Julian Ryall

Triumph, Harley-Davidson, Ducati and other top

foreign motorbikes are making major inroads in

Japan with classic and new models for all ages.

HEALTHNew Year, New You 27

By Nicole Fall

We ask an expert straight questions on getting fit after

the holiday binge and what he thinks about fad diets.

STYLEpotty for plants 13

By Catherine Shaw

Here’s the most efficient way to look after your

precious indoor plants so that they give you many

years of pleasure.

FASHIONphilosophical Fashion Designer 20

By Catherine Shaw

Read what makes one of Japan’s most creative

contemporary talents tick in this rare interview

with Junko Koshino.

KALEIDOScOpE LIFESTYLES IS DELIVERED INSIDE:

• The Daily Yomiuri Sunday edition all 23 Tokyo wards

KALEIDOScOpE LIFESTYLES IS pLAcED IN THE FOLLOWING EXcLUSIVE LOcATIONS:• Apartments 33• Oakwood Serviced Apartments• Bureau Shinagawa Residences• Mori Residences• Duplex C’s Takanawa Serviced Apartments• Frasers Place Howff Shinjuku• Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Chinzan-so• Mandarin Oriental Tokyo• The Hilton Tokyo• Roppongi Hills Club • Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Japan • Yokohama Country & Athletic Club• Tokyo American Club• Veritas• The British School in Tokyo

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With convenient access from Narita Airport by Limousine bus, our servicedapartment Ebisu sets the standard for your relaxing new lifestyle.We provide a maid service and a bilingual concierge service. We also providea fully equipped kitchen and other household items.All you need is your personal belongings and time for your relaxing life.

・Concierge services provided・Fully furnished, luxury apartment・Excellent location・All utilities included (except telephone)・No guarantor needed・Weekly or monthly stay・Security system・Free high-speed Internet access & Cable TV・Housekeeping (twice a week)

ATOMIC ASSETS ADVISERS1-1-16 Mita, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 153-0062

Are you looking for a place ot stay?

Merits of Living at Serviced Apartment

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Changing tastes

In our fast-shrinking world, it’s getting more challenging to find somewhere “new” to visit before mass tourism leaves its clumsy footprint. But we found a pleasant spot not too far from Japan for our cover story that I bet not many of our readers have seen yet. Mongolia has completed its first luxury lodge; but more importantly it still has the key attractions too many well-worn destinations long ago lost—wilderness, tradition and adventure.

Long-term Tokyo residents may have noticed how much foreign food here has improved and become much more authentic, so this issue looks at the renaissance that has transformed Italian cuisine on page 11.

Getting back to basics, two articles offer simple, down-to-earth advice: one on caring for your houseplants (page 13) and the other on a New Year diet (page 27).

Now you’ve had plenty of time to figure out that iPhone, page 15 guides you around the baffling array of accessories and applications to fully exploit this incredible little creation, from helping you study Japanese to drawing colorful pictures. Perhaps the most useful item, though, is an unofficial manual that helps you decipher the gobbledygook with very useful tips and tricks.

As a keen motorcycle owner, our Reborn to be Wild feature on page 23 gave me particular pleasure. It’s interesting to see how times have changed, with more and more enthusiasts here buying foreign bikes after decades of worldwide domination by Japanese manufacturers that almost decimated the classic overseas marques of yesteryear. While still only a fraction of total bike sales here, Triumph, Harley-Davidson, Ducati and others are making major inroads in Japan.

Not forgetting our host nation, we also have an enlightening interview with international fashion designer Junko Koshino on page 20, and an inside look at woodblock prints and why collectors and dealers worldwide are pursuing examples of this ancient fine art like never before.

Happy New Year!

FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK

Simon [email protected]

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CHOICE CHOICES

pure isle pleasure

Every Sunday and National Holiday, Trader Vic’s serves a very special buffet brunch featuring roast beef, chicken, pork and famous spareribs cooked

in their Chinese Wood-Fired Oven. There are over 30 items from which to choose—including their cold selections offering shrimp cocktail, seasonal salads, as well as their special Chinese and Continental Sections, and, of course, a variety of irresistible homemade desserts. Complimentary sparkling wine, a variety of juices, and coffee or tea are included in the price. From 11:30-14:30, ¥6,600 per person, ¥3,300 per child (4-12 year olds). A 10% service charge and tax are included.

Trader Vic’s is one of the most famous American restaurants in the world, established back in 1934, in Oakland, California, and characterized by their unique method of cooking meat, seafood and poultry in a Chinese wood-fired oven—not to mention their original exotic cocktails, including the famous Mai Tai.

where it’s at

When it comes to living in Tokyo, you count on a location that defines optimum choices and convenience. Apartments33 is ideal

for those seeking fully furnished corporate housing and limited-term accommodations. The relocation of the Tokyo American Club to Takanawa has enhanced what the Apartments33 neighborhood already provides to the non-Japanese resident seeking an upscale lifestyle. Located just a five-minute walk from JR Shinagawa Station (includes the Shinkansen bullet train), we provide a front desk run by bilingual staff, 24/7, and captivating views of greenery. There is also a Seven-Eleven convenience store on the ground level. Every month, we host a get-acquainted party for our residents while you savor traditional Japanese cuisine and drink. Apartments33 aims to make your living overseas an enriching experience, in the best urban ambience.

4-24-58 Takanawa, Minato-ku.Tel. 0120-319-982, or 03-3445-2811.www.apartments33.co.jp

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a new you

Would you like to feel more attractive, more beautiful and happy? Plus, you haven’t a clue how to coordinate colors, dress, shoes and

accessories? Or, perhaps, are you searching for a new job—or new personal relationship—and would like to change the way you look?

Venusblossom is a new concept focusing on internal beauty enhancement (the art of flirting, posture, walking, meditation and relaxation); the external glow (color, dress and accessories coordination); and lifestyle (work-home health and harmony).

When you are satisfied with your body shape, face, sensuality and fashion sense, then you become positive, and can attract more luck and greater abundance in your life—whether what’s lacking is your mate, family, new friends or new job.

Become more expressive, passionate and receptive by contacting Lucie in Tokyo, who will do her best to determine what you need the most out of life.

After all, Venus (Aphrodite) is the Goddess of Love and Passion—and a symbol of health, sensuality and abundance. Tel: 090-6488-9255, [email protected] (www.venusblossom.net).

an acquired taste

Mario i sentieri in Nishi-Azabu serves the cuisine of Viareggio, a beach resort near Pisa, Tuscany, Chef Mario Frittoli’s hometown where Italy’s motto, “Mangiare, Cantare,

Amore,” rings truest. Superb authentic dishes created by a culinary maestro and inspiring music played through an exceptional quality JBL system are dedicated to creating a great time with family and friends. Step into the innovative interior with a modern Japanese touch to luxuriate in an enchanting dining experience.

Only the choicest, fresh in-season ingredients, including vegetables straight from Italy—along with a highly selected choice of wines—define the dishes reflecting a hometown blessed with foods from the mountains and sea.

Now you have the opportunity to learn from the very best, in cooking lessons where Chef Frittoli provides direct, hands-on, personalized instruction in Mario i sentieri’s very own open kitchen. You’ll acquire the art of making a complete course—antipasti, pasta, a main dish and dessert—with a menu rich in variety. All dishes involve seasonal ingredients faithfully achieving a genuine Italian taste. Each lesson ends with participants joining Chef Frittoli in a tasting course, in which wines selected by ENOTECA pair with the dishes.

Jan. 24, Feb. 7 and 21. 12 people, 12:00 noon-15:00. Demonstration, course & wine tasting. ¥10,000/ person (incl. tax). Tel: 03-6418-7072, E-mail: [email protected]. www.mario-frittoli.com/

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by nIcole fall

“Asia’s Serengeti” surrounds barren Mongolia’s most remote luxury accommodation, along with wilderness, tradition and adventure.

DESTINATIONS

mongolian oasis

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You’ve been white-water rafting down the Grand Canyon. You’ve bungee jumped in New Zealand, and spent a week trekking in Nepal. You’ve picnicked on Cape Town’s Table Mountain and wine tasted your way around California’s Napa Valley. Yet, you’re still hungry for new adventure with some comfortable touches.

Now try Mongolia’s most luxurious lodge. In a country routinely described as the last great wilderness, tourists

are few and far between. In fact, off-season there is practically no one visiting. Yes!, you cry, Mongolia sounds perfect.

To counter the adventure, though, some home comforts are essential. At the Three Camel Lodge, the country’s premier luxury expedition

camp, the emphasis is on relaxation and good service. The lodge pulls together Mongolia’s three assets—wilderness, tradition and adventure—in a luxury setting smack in the middle of the Gobi Desert.

Miles and miles of barren land surround a collection of Mongolian traditional homes (known as Gers) in a facility boasting hot water, electricity and a nightly turndown service. No mean feat in a country

that routinely suffers from power blackouts and food shortages due to adverse weather conditions.

Before I flew into Mongolia’s Ulan Bator, the only facts I knew about the world’s 16th largest country were that Ghenghis Khan was a former ruler and its capital always was significantly cooler than the other cities featured on a BBC weather report.

In fact, outside of the main tourist season of mid-May to mid-August, the world’s coldest national capital veers from cool, all the way through to Arctic-like temperatures reaching -26ºC in deep winter.

An hour’s plane ride south of Ulan Bator—or about a 16-hour car drive due to the country’s lack of paved roads and its rough terrain—the weather is just as extreme, but in a new way. The Three Camel Lodge is located at N43º53.603, E103º44.435 (and you thought the Japanese address system was confusing). This is a GPS location that will bring you about 66km northeast of the Gobi’s main city, Dalanzadgad.

The sun burns down on your skin during the day; and, at night, temperatures drop to near freezing as stars fill the sky. The operations

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are seasonal. The camp closes from December through May, excluding a quick reopen in February for the Thousand Camel Festival.

Dalanzadgad brings new meaning to the phrase “one horse town.” Aside from Soviet-style low-rise blocks and the handful of shops that spread out packets of stale noodles and potato chips next to each other to make shelves look fuller, there is really nothing to do except grab the next opportunity to leave. Power shortages are frequent, and there is little in the way of fresh produce outside of absolute basics at restaurants. If you do not eat lamb or rice, then you will not be eating at all in the town’s five or so eateries. Fortunately for those staying at the Three Camel Lodge, staff arrange for airport transfer in 4WD vehicles, skipping out Dalanzadgad entirely.

What makes the Three Camel Lodge all the more remarkable is being so far from any sign of real civilization. The camp is literally a speck in the Gobi Desert, which itself is a vast expanse of land featuring just 3% sand dunes—the rest just mile after mile of canyons, rocks, scrub and sheer nothingness. Getting away from it all has never resonated more deeply than when driving through the Gobi; there are little more than the previous car tracks and the position of the sun to guide you to your destination.

The expedition camp was built in 2002, observing environmental and cultural guidelines, and is situated next to a volcanic outcrop aged

47 million years. At the heart of the Ger village is the lodge inspired by traditional Mongolian design; this centerpiece is where dining and entertainment take place. A wraparound stone veranda houses a bar where you can quaff wine and cocktails from a limited but very good selection; and choose to either curl up with a book or do something a little more taxing and play a board game from a selection of around 30 sets. There also are nightly cultural performances, including dance, singing and folk music for the more high-minded.

For those lodgers seeking a little more active pastime, the camp serves as a convenient base for hiking, camel trekking, or photographing the indigenous wildlife, which includes camels, horses, bears, ibexes and snow leopards. The Gobi is not called Asia’s Serengeti for nothing.

Sleeping in a Ger for the first time offers a fun experience. Almost half of Mongolia’s population of 2.5 million live in these traditional tents, which are handmade using a latticed wood structure covered with layers of felt and canvas. The centerpiece is the stove with a chimney that pokes through the top of the tent. At night, the lodge’s iron stove is filled with wood to create a roaring fire that is both romantic yet back-to-nature in feel. The Ger comes with single or double beds, and the interior is painted in childlike hues of orange, red and yellow.

Meals at the camp feature a combination of familiar Western dishes and traditional Mongolian fare; and supplies are purchased from local

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farms to provide the remote region with greater economic opportunity. Camel yogurt, steamed mutton dumplings and dried curd are supplemented with tofu-based dishes for vegetarians and fresh-as-they-come steaks for the carnivores.

Three Camel Lodge is owned by Jalsa Urubshurow, a first-generation Kalmyk Mongolian-American born and raised in one of the largest Mongolian communities in North America, in Howell Township, New Jersey.

The lodge utilizes renewable energy sources, taking advantage of the abundance in solar and wind power. Artisans indigenous to the

Gobi crafted the roofs of the buildings in accordance with the canons of traditional Mongolian Buddhist architecture, without a single nail. Unprocessed natural stone was used for the bathroom facilities; and simple, organic materials were sourced locally to support the ural economy.

In an era of cookie-cutter hotel chains, the Three Camel Lodge is singularly unique. One just wonders, though, what Ghenghis would have made of it.

Nicole Fall is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Three Camel LodgeReservations and information worldwide Tel: (976) 11-325 786 www.threecamellodge.comAll per person, per night rates are as of November 2008, and include 3 daily meals:

• $80: Standard Ger, double occupancy• $110: Standard Ger, single occupancy• $120: Deluxe Ger, double occupancy• $155: Deluxe Ger, single occupancy

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TEL: 090.9845.3963 Email: [email protected]

BESPOKETOURS OFCOOL TOKYOContemporary Architecture, Design and Culture

A Tokyo immersion related to your personal

or professional interests.

www.tokyodc.jp

Tokyo Design Connection

Hanzomon House, 2-5-2 Kojimachi,Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-0083

Tel: 03-3239-6771 Fax: 03-5210-5702

We are uncompromisingly devoted to recreating and bringing you Southern Italy, from the fresh homemade pasta made daily to the mozzarella and other delights flown in from Italy, all served with warmth by our friendly staff. Excellent hospitality and exquisite presentations of vegetables and seafood, the perfect wine and the ideal ambience – Elio’s in the place.

Only the best should come between friends.

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Every once in a while you stumble upon a gem of an Italian dining experience. The authentic meal evokes common clichés—“melts in your mouth” and “bursting with flavor”—that want to sneak into your repertoire for describing the meal. In Tokyo, that “once in a while” is a little more frequent than elsewhere in the world, with the capital’s array of Italian restaurants serving up dishes to rival food served in Italy.

Over the years, Italian cuisine here has clearly changed for the better, and matters have further improved. Tokyo’s new 1,500m2 Italian food and wine complex, Eataly, opened in Daikanyama last September with the intention of “elevating Italian cuisine in the city,” says Eataly Japan CEO Andrea Rasca. The comprehensive complex steps apart from your typical Italian restaurant or international grocer—adding more than just quality fare to Tokyo’s Italian food prospects. Like a “Little Italy” abroad, the space provides a cultural experience to match its gastronomical authenticity.

Eataly has three pillars at its core: Buy, Eat, Learn. On the buying front, Eataly has a marketplace offering between 1,200-1,500 Italian products—representing around 70% of its homeland’s cuisine. Bundles of freshly baked loaves of bread are stacked in the bakery, with the additional ingredients of figs, prunes, olives and imported elements added to the various yeasty mixtures. A wood-fired oven and fresh pasta shop border a food-court style setup with wooden chairs and tables, paper placemats, a lively vibe and, of course, a 750ml bottle of olive oil and all-you-can-eat fresh bread.

Behind the rows of Italian goods—which include pasta that reaches up to your waist—is a cozy wine cellar at the edge of the more secluded dining spot. The restaurant serves up hearty vegetarian dishes, while, around the corner, are 100 cheeses and 40 kinds of cured meat.

Across the cobblestone courtyard, dessert awaits. Individual ornate cakes and pastries are neatly lined in rows under a glass counter

italian renaissanceby Karryn mIller

In the 1990s, the Italian food scene in Tokyo was bleak. “The Japanese didn’t know what good pasta was, or what espresso was,” recalls Italian chef Mario Frittoli. Two decades on, things have changed.

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DINING

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positioned next to a gelato stall. The bar/coffee counter spans the front section of the ground level, with tables and friendly chatter spilling out into the quad.

There is a sign leading patrons upstairs toward the restaurant Guido per Italy, the elite concept of the Eataly experience. It reads: “To be simple is difficult.”—a saying true to good Italian cooking.

At Guido per Italy, just as throughout the complex, the focus is on quality of products going into each creation. “Our concept is based on the raw material—the ingredients,” explains Rasca. “So we tend to elaborate on our dishes less and less. We want to show that a real chef can make you taste the single ingredients.

“You will really feel the touch of the chef and of each dish’s elements,” he says.

This goes a long way to explaining why items lining Eataly’s shelves will never be mass-produced brands. Instead, Eataly chooses to support small Italian companies—buying the food directly to keep prices low for its customers.

Eataly offers cooking classes and lessons about wine and beer. Though, at present, these offerings are held only in Japanese, with the right amount of interest, instruction in English could be offered.

Eataly wasn’t the first to bring a large slice of Italy to Tokyo, though. At the end of 2006, the Shiodome Italia Creative Center and its surrounding little Italy began business. Situated around a piazza (open square), the Italian-themed area features a number of shops and restaurants housed within 30 distinctly Italian buildings.

Though filled with Italian restaurants, the space originally was opened with the intent to introduce Italian design and culture, rather than just good food. You’ll encounter Italian-themed art and design exhibitions, as a result, through which to peruse while working up an appetite.

At the restaurant and shop Ferrarini, one of Europe’s long-established prosciutto producers introduces the Italian food philosophy. Here you’ll find Italian food staples—pasta, olive oil and proscuitto. But should you prefer to let the chefs work their magic on these ingredients, dining is always an option at Ferrarini.

At the heart of both Eataly and Shiodome Italia is an important factor—passion. The same trait can be found at Frittoli’s Italian restaurant, Mario i sentieri.

Mario Frittoli opened Mario i sentieri in August 2008—the first restaurant he has solely owned since arriving here 20 years ago. The romantic nook tucked away behind Nishi-Azabu crossing is full most nights of the week, both with guests and Frittoli’s avid Italian presence.

“I wanted people to feel cozy—like they were in my home—while being able to eat original food, have a good time, and feel comfortable,” he says.

Featured on the current menu are flavorful dishes like a primi piatti of fresh tagliolini with scampi, porcini mushrooms and mascarpone cheese; le carni of roasted pork shoulder with Tuscany herbs; and I dolci of light crepes filled with salty caramel cream. Frittoli values changing the options every three months, so you may be treated to a new selection when visiting.

Tokyoites, indeed, possess a heightened sense of what defines good Italian fare. Coupled with the growing number of authentic Italian restaurants from which to choose, along with easier access to quality Italian ingredients, the dining scene has clearly improved for lovers of quality pizza, pasta—and fine Italian cuisine.

Karryn Miller is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Eataly20-23 Daikanyamacho, Shibuya-kuNearest station: DaikanyamaTel: 03-5784-2736www.eataly.co.jpOpening hours:Cafeteria daily: 8:00-22:30Store daily: 10:00-22:30RistorantiniWeekdays, 11:30-15:00, 17:30-21:30Weekends & holidays, 11:30-21:30Restaurant Guido per Eataly18:30-21:30 Closed on Mon (if Mon a holiday, then Tue instead)

Shiodome Italia Creative Center2-14-1 Higashi Shimbashi, Minato-kuTel: 03-3432-6263www.shiodomeitalia.comOpening hours: Varies with each establishment

Mario i SentieriComfora Nishi Azabu, 4-1-10 Nishi Azabu, Minato-kuNearest station: RoppongiTel: 03-6418-7072www.mario-frittoli.comOpening hours: Mon-Sat: 18:00-2:00

RecipePasta al Pesto Genovese (serves approx. 4)Courtesy of Eataly

• 400g Linguine Pastaio di Gragnano• Sauce: 20g Basil 10g Pine nuts 10g Parmesan cheese 1g Salt• 50g Extra Virgin olive oil ROI (light olive oil from the Liguria region, available for purchase at Eataly)

1. Wash basil very carefully and separate leaves from stems. Roast pine nuts in a saucepan at low heat to give them a delicate brown color. Blend basil, pine nuts and the extra virgin olive oil in a kitchen processor. Add salt and grated Parmesan cheese.

2. Bring water to a boil and salt slightly, then add the pasta. When the pasta reaches the point of being cooked “al dente,” take it out of the water and mix the pasta immediately with the Pesto sauce in a preheated ceramic bowl. Authentic Pasta al Pesto Genovese is served with diced boiled potatoes and boiled green beans. The dish can be decorated with some roasted pine nuts, grated Parmesan cheese and a fresh leaf of basil.

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Researchers at Texas State University in San Marcos found that, in terms of self-satisfaction with life and work, people who had a plant at the office enjoyed a higher rating than those without plants. It got me wondering if they had surveyed anyone like me; for if there were a register of serial plant killers, I’d be top of the list.

The local garden centers loved me when I lived in London in a house with flowerboxes; every few months the numerous boxes would be replanted. The blame can fall on a friend who, when asked how she kept her plants looking so healthy, replied: “I buy new ones when they start to wither.”

Of course this method is a wholly unsustainable way to maintain greenery in a home. We need contact with nature; keeping plants around our office and home has known benefits—from soothing

the psyche and pleasing the eye, to helping reduce the “sick building syndrome” triggered by compounds from carpets, upholstery and cleaning products. Plants improve air quality by filtering pollutants, releasing oxygen into the room and lowering humidity.

With renewed determination to save two recently purchased Japanese maple trees, I conducted an informal survey of friends, colleagues, local Japanese florists and a few friendly landscape architects, all of whom provided excellent advice that forms this basic guide on how not to kill your potted plants. All those surveyed agree that such greenery are like babies, completely dependent on you to keep them alive. Potted plants need you to think about every aspect regarding where they dwell, their nutrition and care before bringing them home.

by catherIne shaw

Think of your house plants as babies, needing constant love, care and attention. Here’s how.

potty for plants

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STYLE

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Choosing a pot

Almost anything can be used, from an abandoned crate to top-of-the-range designer pots. First think about your style, preference, budget and type of planting.

If you move home frequently, lightweight containers made from fiberglass and plastic containers are best, and also absorb less moisture. For added insulation and to cut down on moisture loss, line the inside of terracotta pots with bubble wrap. Good shopping sources are Ikea and Costco.

Whatever the type of pot, there must be one or more holes in the bottom to allow for drainage; plants drown if you diligently over water them. Be sure to place a few stones or pieces of broken pottery over the holes before filling with soil to ensure proper drainage. For a large pot, recycled polystyrene broken up into large pieces should fill the lower third. Also place a layer of pebbles on the surface of the soil to maintain proper moisture levels.

Soil and watering

At your local florist, purchase a loose peat nursery mix, which is best for most plants. Some plants, however, need a special mix. Azaleas, for example, like the more acidic compost; and some bulbs don’t need nutrient-rich blends, while cacti require a very special soil.

There is a range of excellent time-release fertilizers and moisture-retaining crystals available. SoilMoist products cut down on the amount of watering needed—and are available from the Nicolai Bergmann School of Floristry in Tokyo.

Remember that heavy soils hold water better than a fine mix or clay. Nevertheless, make sure you understand the moisture content of the soil and how much you should wet it. Water new plants before and after transplanting to avoid shock and to help settle the roots. If the soil looks dry, push your finger under the surface to confirm.

Find out when your plant needs extra “feeding”—usually in the warmer months—with reduced growth during winter. That said, water more in summer than during milder spring days. Once a day is enough for large pots (smaller pots dry out more quickly than larger ones). However, do not water the leaves or flowers, or let pots sit in water since the roots will rot.

Deciding on plants

The size of plants should be proportional to the dimensions of their container; so if you’ve just bought a gigantic architectural white pot currently available at Bals Tokyo, you need to look for a plant that makes an equal statement.

Another consideration is the sun conditions of the space for your plants. If the location is continually in the shade, forget about sun-loving plants like roses or Rosemary. Japanese maple trees, for example, are a popular choice in general for their exquisite colors; they prefer a shaded or semi-sunny environment. On the other side of the spectrum, ferns need filtered sun, while ornamental grasses like full sunlight. However, some plants may need to be brought indoors when winter temperatures plummet.

Other popular hardy choices include evergreen shrubs, bamboo and ivy. If your pot is big enough, why not plant a tree? In any case, always ask for advice on matching your plant choices to their placement. There are excellent local florists in Tokyo neighborhoods; make friends with the owner and you’ll find them to be a source of excellent information. Not speaking Japanese should never be a deterrent; before buying a plant on impulse, show the florist photographs that illustrate the space and conditions.

Always measure your pots before going out to buy plants. Bear in mind that even small Japanese maple trees have roots that grow very quickly—rapidly reaching the point where they can’t get enough nutrition and water and so need more space. As a general rule, if in doubt, go for pots on the larger, rather than smaller, size to your plant choice.

The novice gardener should use one type of plant per pot. If you want to combine different types in a single pot, make sure the plant choices like the same degree of light and moisture conditions.

Popular with lazier gardeners is pampas grass. The smaller versions (some can grow up to 3m), such as Bertinii or Silver Cornet, create a dramatic effect without much effort.

One of the best books on how to look after plants in containers is Plants in Pots by Andi Clevely, available at Amazon.com. Gardening supplies can be purchased from Bals Tokyo, the Conran Shop or neighborhood shops.

If all else fails, resort to artificial plants. Some are so lifelike that people are known to have watered them for years.

Catherine Shaw is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

USEFUL SOURCES

• Joyful-Honda (www.joyfulhonda.com) is a useful DIY center with an English Web site.

• Dai-ichi Engei (www.daiichi-engei.jp) and In Natural (www.in-natural.jp) are specialized stores with excellent ( Japanese-language only) Web sites.

• Tomizawa Zouen (www.chofu.com/units/36243/ken00240/) is a professional shop for special items like bamboo or pampas grass.

• Tsukasa Maples (www.t-maple.com/annai.html) supplies a wide variety of maple trees.

• Soma Landscape Planning Co., Ltd. (Tel: 03-3220-7561, e-mail: [email protected]) offers professional advice and assistance in English and Japanese.

14 / Kaleidoscope JANUARY/FEBRUARY 09

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009

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2009 Guide to International Education in Japan

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Jiyugaoka Motoazabuwww.gymboree.jp03-3723-0651 03-5449-2311

Come see why we are the global leader in classes for kids.

FREE Class on us!

Simply bring in this offer.

For ages 0 to 5 years.

5-7-7 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Phone/fax: 03-3400-1579E-mail: [email protected] www.tucelc.com

Where learning is fun!A safe, nurturing, stimulating, and cheerful environment for your child to develop spiritually, socially, emotionally, physically, and intellectually in a cozy, non-competitive, Christian community atmosphere. Located inside the Tokyo Union Church building on Omotesando, our quality Early Childhood Education classes for children ages 2 to 5 prepare students to enter elementary schools.

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The Value of an International School ExperienceInvolving the parents and the community in a global processBY DaviD UmeDa

W hether in regards to academics or extra-curricular activities (athletics and fine arts), the international schools operating

in Japan and the region value staying in touch with each other. The Japan Council of International Schools ( JCIS), for example, represents more than 25 international schools operating in Japan. Many international schools here also are a part of the East Asia Regional Council of Overseas Schools (EARCOS), an organization of 110 member schools in East Asia, with enrollment of more than 72,000 students from pre-K to 12th grade.

Reflecting global business strategies and corporate planning, the makeup of the student body at international schools has seen dramatic rises in preschool- and kindergarten-aged children. This is in stark contrast to when, as an international schoolteacher, I saw the ranks in middle schools significantly increased throughout the Kanto Plain from the mid-1980s. Campus facilities were developed and faculty hired to accommodate the surge in families who had kids primarily in their early teens.

The Tokyo Association of International Preschools (TAIP), established on March 1, 2005, involves over 20 institution members; its mission is to support international preschools in the Tokyo area in terms of networking, staff development, parent education and publicity. The community-oriented Women’s Group of the private membership Tokyo American Club organizes an annual International

Preschool & Kindergarten Fair (Wed, Jan. 28, 2009, 10:00-13:00), involving close to 60 schools, and open to the public.

AccreditAtionBy its very definition, “international” means being relevant to global standards and, in particular, overseas schooling systems into which families currently in Japan are looking to send their children later. International schools oftentimes undergo the process of being recognized by accrediting associations with global validity based in other countries. Visitation committees are composed of both overseas (non-regional) and Japan/Asia-based international school administrators. Detailed written reports by the school’s departments and administration, with critical input by students and parents, are prepared for, and read by, the accreditation committee prior to coming on campus for observations and discussions. An accreditation report is developed and explained by the committee before its departure, with the final full version printed later. There is a written evaluation of current programs, accompanied by recommendations (based on what the school has suggested are feasible) for short-, mid- and long-term improvements to the facilities, curriculum, evaluation and communications systems, and organized extra-curricular activities, etc.

Some of the major accrediting associations handling international schools in Japan include the Council of International Schools (CIS), the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC), the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), and the European Council of International Schools (ECIS). In the case of NEASC, for example, an international school undertakes a self-

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Tel: 043-296-0186www.mis.or.jp

Modern School Facilities• InteractiveSmartBoards

• Outdoorlearningareas

• Internationalresources

• WirelessMediaCenter

• NativeEnglish-speakingteachers

• Easilyaccessible

OPENING APRIL 2009!

Makuhari international School

10340_Makuhari_Kal_JanFeb09.indd 1 08.12.18 5:29:10 PM

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study process of 12-18 months in regular review cycles. Member institutions undergo a comprehensive evaluation process at least once every 10 years.

Also, international schools may follow curriculum syllabuses prescribed by globally positioned, nonprofit educational foundations that allow students to sit examinations evaluated externally outside Japan and whose results are valued as fulfilling key university admission’s criteria and valid for college course credits elsewhere. There are international programs well established in Japan and include the International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE) for 14-16 y.o. (9th-10th grades) and the International Baccalaureate (IB) for the last two years of high school. On the elementary school level, there is the International Primary Curriculum (IPC)—an international curriculum providing a cross-curricular, thematic, rigorous teaching structure designed to engage children of all abilities in today’s world. The Montessori system of education is designed to take full advantage of the self-motivation of the child and the unique sensitivity of young children to absorb everything about them.

For high school students, international schools also may provide preparations for taking the Advanced Placement (AP) tests, whose results may be applied toward college credit by a university, and, for the SAT Reasoning and Subject Tests, which are instrumental in the college application process overseas, as well as to international colleges in Japan.

Enabling international school students to earn global recognition in the performing fine arts, distinguished institutions such as the Associated Board of the Royal Schools of Music (ABRSM) and Trinity College London, for example, arrange for their standard music assessments (practicum and theory) to be administered in Japan, by their appointed local and/or visiting examiners.

country specificThe demographics of the foreign community reflect not only business trends, as mentioned at the start, but also how other countries are developing deeper relations with Japan and, in many cases, want to provide their citizens with a curriculum and program that are a direct extension of what children would experience back in their home country.

While such country-specific international schools are providing an easier transition to their particular education system, they also reflect how job assignments are relatively longer for their compatriots and so the greater need to

immerse students in a homegrown learning environment while overseas.

That said, these country-specific international schools also develop courses and activities that allow their students to learn more about Japan and the region—its languages, customs and histories.

pArt of the communityInvolvement in charitable fundraising and social work are an integral part of the international school experience in Japan. Refugees International Japan (RIJ), for example, engages students in not only raising awareness and money within the school, but also participating in public appeals and events, including the Festive Tree Campaign—“Light up the Life of a Refugee Child” (December) and The Art of Dining exhibition (March).

While international schools see their annual food fairs as an important event to bring their families and children together, the homemade quality of the diverse ethnic cuisine served and the entertainment by school bands and other performing arts clubs genuinely give back to the community. The international schools themselves support each other, and longtime expatriate families see the food fairs as a chance to interact with the foreign community at large and share special times with their Japanese friends—in essence, being their host for the day.

postgrAduAte experienceNot to be overlooked in what is on offer while residing in Japan are the postgraduate global institutions that deliver programs, certifications and degrees recognized the world over. Whether online or on the campuses in Japan, MBA programs are available for the working adult, and carry the same value and weight as if attending the main campus in the U.S. or Europe. Japanese universities also have established business postgraduate curriculums, including the MBA, that are attractive to foreigners, as well as Japanese who have global career aspirations.

Training programs also are geared toward the experienced, fulltime foreign executive on assignment here and the Japanese high-level corporate officer employed by either a multinational Japanese company or the Japanese subsidiary of a foreign company.

While the international recruitment fairs in the U.S. and Europe remain invaluable for both graduates and corporations, the strong

presence in Japan of global executive search firms undeniably strengthens the value of the

business programs run here.

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SCHOOL LIST

School & contact StudentS coed? gradeS curriculum/diploma tranSportation year

the american School in Japan (aSiJ)1-1-1 Nomizu, Chofu-shi, Tokyo 182-0031Mary Margaret Mallat Tel. 0422-34-5300, ext. 721Andearly learning center6-16-5 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0032Judy Beneventi, Tel. 03-5771-4344E-mail: [email protected] (both)Web site: www.asij.ac.jp

1,620 M/F Pre-K-12 U.S.-style curriculum, High School Diploma

School buses, train Aug-June

gymboree play & musicMotoazabu Crest Bldg. 1F2-3-30 Motoazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0046Tel: 03-5449-2311Orfeel Bldg. 2F1-5-1 Jiyugaoka, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 152-0035Tel: 03-3723-0651E-mail: [email protected] Web site: www.gymboree.jp

400

(Motoazabu)

150

( Jiyugaoka)

M/F Ages 3 mo.-5 y.o.

Parent-child play; music & art 3 mo.-30 mo.; drop-off music, art, school & sports skills 1½-5 y.o.; daily family play gyms

Train, subway N/A

international School of the Sacred heart4-3-1 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0012Tel: 03-3400-3951 Fax: 03-3400-3496E-mail: [email protected] site: www.issh.ac.jp

610 M/F

(K3-5)

F

(G1-12)

K3-G12 International Curriculum includes programs from IPC in the K/JS, Advanced Placement in the High School and English as a Second

Across the road from Hiroo Station (Hibiya)

Aug-June

makuhari international School3-2-9 Wakaba, Mihama-ku, Chiba City 261-0014Tel: 043-296-0277 Fax: 043-296-0186E-mail: [email protected] Web site: www.mis.or.jp

250 M/F K-6 Based around the Japanese Curriculum.

School buses April-March

nagoya international School2686 Minamihara, NakashidamiMoriyama, Nagoya, 463-0002Tel: 052-736-2025 Fax: 052-736-3883E-mail: [email protected] site: www.nis.ac.jp

350 M/F Preschool-12 IBO World School, IBO Diploma Program

School bus available; public transportation limited

Aug-June

nishimachi international School2-14-7 Moto Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0046Tel: 03-3451-5520 Fax: 03-3456-0197E-mail: [email protected] site: www.nishimachi.ac.jp

440 M/F K-9 International curriculum taught in English; Japanese-language studies compulsory for all grades

Hiroo Station (Hibiya), Azabu Juban Station (Nanboku & Oedo)

Late Aug-June

Seisen international School 1-12-15 Yoga, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 158-0097Tel: 03-3704-2661 Fax: 03-3701-1033E-mail: [email protected] Web site: www.seisen.com

700+ K, M/F

1-12, FK-12 Catholic school; PYP, IB

Diploma programs; IGCSE select courses

School buses; Yoga Station (Denentoshi), Kaminoge Station (Oimachi)

Aug-June

St. mary’s international School1-6-19 Seta, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 158-8668Tel: 03-3709-3411 Fax: 03-3707-1950E-mail: [email protected] site: www.smis.ac.jp

930 M Pre 1st-12 American – IB School buses, train, subway

Aug-June

tamagawa international preschool (tipS)3-28-4 Shinmachi, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 154-0014Tel: 03-3439-8685E-mail: [email protected] site: www.tips-japan.comhttp://preschools.internationalschooljapan.com (blog)

21 M/F

(50:50)

Pre-K-Grade 3 (18 mo.-8 y.o.)

Preschool, Kindergarten and Early stage of Primary school

5-min. walk Sakura Shinmachi Station (Tokyu Denentoshi); Parking (drop-off/pickup); near Seisen and St. Mary's International Schools

Sep-June; July-Aug: (summer school)

tokyo musashikoyama international School in Japan3-21-19 Koyama, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 142-0062Tel: 03-3786-9674E-mail: [email protected] site: www.tmisij.com

40 M/F Preschool-Kindergarten: 1.5-3 y.o.; 3-4 y.o.; and 5-6 y.o. classes

American: use “Scholastic” material + “Oxford Readers” material; Music appreciation class (from Jan)

Train, public bus Sep-July (kids can join anytime during the year)

tokyo union church early learning center 5-7-7 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0001Tel/Fax: 03-3400-1579 E-mail: [email protected] site: www.tucelc.com

40 M/F Nursery-Kindergarten

Preschool-Kindergarten Train, subway Aug-June

Kaleidoscope Pull-out Section / 7

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iPhone extras

Which accessory and application for your iPhone? Unless you’ve been on another planet for the past six months, you couldn’t have helped but notice the hype surrounding the launch of Apple’s stylish iPhone.

by catherIne shaw

Kaleidoscope / 15

TECHNOLOGY

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Asian Tigers Move Management Specialists

> Cambodia

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> Indonesia

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> Taiwan

> Thailand

> Vietnam

Asian Tigers Premier Worldwide Movers Co.,Ltd.6th Floor, Nakata Mac Toranomon Building1-1-10 Atago, Minato-kuTokyo 105-0002, Japan

Phone: (81-3) 6402 2371 Fax: (81-3) 6402 [email protected]

CONTACTS: Andrew Olea, Sandra Van Gessel-Yoda (French service)

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I’ll admit now that following mobile phone trends doesn’t usually interest me, but this little beauty is much more than just a phone. It’s more of a fabulous little computer with loads of fun and useful features—and a pretty good telephone thrown in for good measure. The programs in iPhone redefine the meaning of ergonomic. It’s as if an army of Apple designers sitting down en masse to devise the quickest and most intuitive ways for each procedure. As you can tell, I’m a fan.

The 8GB (¥23,040) and 16GB (¥34,560) versions come preloaded with plenty of features, such as an easy-to-use Web browser, a 2.0 megapixel camera, alarm clock, diary, YouTube, maps, iTunes, calculator, stocks, weather, notes and Apple Store functions.

Enough to keep most people busy. But gadget lovers are not most people; so for those who

want extra toys—sorry, applications and accessories—to pass the day, the following are personal favorites.

Although the touch-sensitive screen is highly resistant to scratches, a protective cover is highly recommended as your first buy. Horror stories abound of iPhones that met their demise from an accidental fall from a pocket. The colorful and retro designs on the silicone peel-on-and-off Gizmobies covers (¥3,500) are an inexpensive yet stylish option—and available at Gizmobies Harajuku, 1-7-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tel: 03 6316 5285—as are Softbank Harajuku’s edgy Air Jacket set covers.

Another must-have is David Pogue’s highly readablea iPhone: The Missing Manual: the book that should have been in the box (¥2,249), at www.amazon.co.jp/. It’s essential reading for anyone looking for tips and tricks on how to use the iPhone to its full potential. Throw away the original manual and keep this guide close to your iPhone.

The battery is considered by many to be one of iPhone’s weaker

points. Griffin iTrip AutoPilot (¥10,710), also available from Amazon.com, may be expensive; but it charges while broadcasting music from your iPod program to an open FM frequency on the car’s stereo. Playback controls are on the charger, and song information is displayed on RDS-enabled car radio displays.

Belkin’s RockStar (www.belkin.com) is a spider-like contraption that connects up to five headphones to one MP3 or DVD player—and compatible with the 8GB iPhone. The On ultra-compact speakers from Elecom (¥2,520), at Softbank Harajuku, are a great way to play your music while on the go. The tennis ball-sized sphere splits to form two decent quality speakers.

Softbank’s newest gadget allowing iPhones to pick up and retransmit 1Seg Television broadcasts was scheduled for a December 2008 launch.

The compact 50x85x16mm gadget weighs just 80g, and a delivers sufficient power for up to three hours of viewing while serving as a battery booster. The new software application is free of charge.

Apple’s iTunes Store is like a toyshop to iPhone fans, who log on for hundreds of free and inexpensive add-on programs. Sticky Notes (¥115) is a brilliant way to write lists of things to do and reminders that you save as wallpaper. Treat it like iPhotos, e-mail or save it at will.

Flycast Mobile Broadcast Network is a free program that provides access to hundreds of Internet radio stations. Although it doesn’t continue working when you switch to other iPhone uses, such as making a call or checking your diary, it is a great way of listening to your favorite radio stations.

The iPhone comes with a microphone, speaker and adequate storage, but no pure recording capability. Apple’s SpeakEasy Voice Recorder (¥230) is one of the best-rated software programs providing recording and playback of verbal notes. With this device, you can place group recordings into categories; add a photo, title or comments. Recordings and playback can be conveniently paused or resumed. The audio quality is adjustable.

Etch A Sketch (¥230) is a drawing program for doodling, just like the real thing—but now in color. Shake to undo your masterpiece, or save

and send to friends. BubbleWrap is a free and surprisingly satisfying way of passing the time. Pop the virtual bubbles before the timer runs out. Google Earth is also free and, as they say, allows you to “hold the world in the palm of your hand.”

Japanese codefromtokyo is one of the most expensive (¥2,300) downloadable electronic dictionaries available, but it does have several unique great features. Words are classified into lists—such as economics, food or sports—for a quick overview of topics. Japanese proverbs, common expressions and Hiragana/Katakana charts are included. The program works offline.

The touch-sensitive keyboard of iPhones can take some time getting used to. iTunes’ Big KeyBoard Email (¥115) provides a much larger landscape-sized English keyboard. You send completed text to the e-mail application to type in recipients before sending as usual.

iKana touch (¥700) is an essential aid for studying Japanese. Flash cards with stroke animations, example words and sound clips all mean no more excuses for not recognising signs in Japan. The best feature of this handy little program is the kana speed and writing tests, where you can practice your new found language skills.

One final word of caution: always look for the “works with iPhone logo” before buying any accessory.

Catherine Shaw is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Top left: Sticky Notes help shoppers remember.

Bottom left: Griffin’s iTrip AutoPilot charges while broadcasting on FM.

Right: More like a mini-computer than a phone.

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Top and right page inset: Adachi Institute master carver at work.Inset: Hiroshige Moon-viewing Point.

Ukiyo-e, literally “paintings of the floating world,” have long fascinated Westerners—for

they are so quintessentially Japanese. In the past, while the Japanese enjoyed but often disposed of woodblock prints,

Westerners were becoming avid collectors. Today, ukiyo-e is recognized as an important national art form; and in

Tokyo it is possible to learn about the ukiyo-e era, to view collections of the finest prints, to see how they are produced—and purchase an authentic print for your home or office.

You head first to the magnificent Edo-Tokyo Museum in Ryogoku (sumo area of the city) to learn about the Edo Era (1603-1868), when the Emperor was powerless in Kyoto and the country governed by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The feudal overlord Ieyasu Tokugawa moved

the capital to Edo village (present-day Tokyo), in time growing into a sophisticated city, reaching a population of over one million back then.

A strong government and a policy of no contact with the outside world through self-imposed isolation eventually shaped a period of great peace in Japan. There was time to devote to education, music, literature, the arts and entertainment. Literacy levels were high. This was the period of kabuki, sumo, handicrafts, lacquerware and ukiyo-e.

At the museum, visitors cross over the Nihonbashi bridge and enter Edo. Ukiyo-e help illustrate aspects of life back then; there is a section in the museum devoted to prints, including a fascinating array of woodblocks that graphically illustrate how an ukiyo-e was created.

Producing an ukiyo-e entailed a group effort. The artist drew the picture using clear black lines. The carver next produced a series of

floating artWoodblock prints of simple everyday working life are now sought-after

examples of some of Japan’s finest craftsmanship from an era of

self-imposed isolation. by margaret PoInter

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ARTS & CULTURE

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woodblocks, each color requiring its own block. A printer took the woodblocks, and using special paper and natural dyes produced the ukiyo-e. The whole process was overseen by a publisher who would release the prints for sale, often through bookshops, such as the one recreated at the museum. Because the print method allowed for multiple copies of a picture, ukiyo-e were inexpensive.

The floating world of woodblock prints referred to a class of townspeople who did not fit the rigid social hierarchy of earlier times and were growing in number. Favorite subjects for ukiyo-e, therefore, were scenes of everyday urban life, as well as kabuki actors, female beauties, sumo wrestlers, and Edoites taking in the different seasons and landscapes of Japan. Woodblock prints provide a unique window into life at the time, and the beauty and artistry of the prints are highly prized today.

A great place to enjoy fine ukiyo-e in a genuine Japanese setting is at the Ota Memorial Museum of Art, just off Omotesando. A private collection has been turned into a wonderful museum that often features foreign collections of ukiyo-e. As soon as you step into your museum slippers, you have a sense of entering a special space. The main gallery has a small rock garden in the center where you can sit and view ukiyo-e. There is an air of calm and serenity, amazing when you consider the modern capital city is just outside.

To delve deeper into the process involved in producing ukiyo-e, there is no better place to go than to the Adachi Institute of Woodcut Prints in Mejiro. Their Web site lists the time of the printing demonstration (usually in Japanese). Be prepared to be amazed. At the institute, master carvers and printers work on producing ukiyo-e first created by such famous artists as Hokusai, Hiroshige and Utamaro.

The woodblocks are carved from cherry wood, the paper made from mulberry, the printing tools prepared with horsehair and bamboo, and the paints mixed from natural pigments. The process is painstakingly thorough and is unchanged from Edo times. As you watch the master printer use nine successive woodblocks to produce a print of Hokusai’s Great Wave, for example, it becomes apparent that this man brings skill and passion to his work. At first glance, the

master printer makes the process seem deceptively simple; yet his 40 years of experience come to the fore as the print is produced.

It is possible to buy an authentic ukiyo-e at the Adachi Institute, but you might opt to go one step further in your journey. The Kanda-Jimbocho district offers streets lined with bookshops and print galleries. My own wanderings brought me to the Ebisu-do gallery, where the owner made me feel very welcome and, in excellent English, spent time patiently explaining about the prints she sells— and obviously loves. Her collection includes not only the Edo masters, but also shin-hanga, new prints produced in the 20th and 21st century.

Tokyo remains the ultra-modern center of Japanese consumerism; but scratch the surface and there is a world of traditional art lovingly preserved—and people delighted to share it with those who want to learn.

Margaret Pointer is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Bottom: The classic Hokusai (Great Wave).

Edo-Tokyo Museum www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp

Ota Memorial Museum of Art www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp

Adachi Institute of Woodcut Prints www.adachi-hanga.com

Ebisu-do Gallery www.ebisu-do.com

Courtesy Adachi Institute

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Junko Koshino:Philosophical Fashion DesignerA rare interview with one of Japan’s most creative contemporary talents reveals her passion for rationalist, contrasting and original style inspired by a French sculptor. by catherIne shaw Photos by ayano sato

FASHION

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There is something very monotonous about the current dominance by the global fashion mega brands. Whether shopping along New York’s 5th Avenue, Hong Kong’s Central or Tokyo’s Omotesando, they and their prêt-a-porter imitators have created an almost uniform international approach to design.

Thankfully, certain Japanese fashion designers have long stood out from the crowd in terms of their inventiveness and unique design aesthetic. In the early 1980s, a few had begun to show their collections in Paris and through their unusual shapes and cuts drew the world’s attention to a completely different way of thinking and wearing clothes. The unusual shapes and cuts drew the world’s attention to a completely different way of thinking—and wearing clothes.

Koshino Koshino was already a well-established fashion designer at the time the fashion world embraced what many refer to as Japonisme. Born in Osaka in 1939, she had an early start in design, being raised in a family dedicated to fashion. Her mother was one of the first to bring Western-style dresses to women in Japan; and her two sisters, Hiroko and Michiko, went on to become successful designers as well. A few years after studying at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, Koshino opened her first boutique in Tokyo, going on to showcase her first ready-to-wear collection in Paris in 1978. The fashion world immediately took to her creative designs that drew inspiration from the shape and aesthetic style of traditional Japanese kimono.

Today, a visit to Koshino’s contemporary boutique on prestigious Kotto Dori in Aoyama shows that her inspiration is as fresh as it was when first bursting onto the fashionable Parisian scene. The boutique is a two-story treasure trove of fascinating textiles transformed into very wearable works of art—from butter-soft calf-length elegant leather coats, to sheer full-length evening gowns decorated with feather-light fine gold chains. The range of styles—from

a modern strappy leather dress to ornate embroidered jackets and shrug shawls—is evidence of how it is nearly impossible (and gratifyingly so) to pin down Koshino’s design to one particular style.

Nevertheless, Koshino explains that her style is closely tied to a fascination with contrasts—curves and straight lines, light and

dark, round and square. When complimented on how magical a breathtakingly beautiful dress looks, she replies: “There is no connection between what God and humans create. What God creates is too perfect, so we cannot even compete or

challenge it.” This belief forms the core of Koshino’s “rationalist”

approach to designing. She enjoys contrasting natural elements (such as circles) and rational manmade constructs (such as squares). The result in her work is something that hovers between an architectural statement and a sculpture. Koshino points out a particularly stunning example of her working with contrasting shapes. What first appears to be a small pile of silk on top of a black lacquered table in her boutique—once unfolded—

presents a shocking-pink long scarf made up of hundreds of folded organza silk squares that rustle and move with the wearer.

Koshino is equally passionate and eloquent about the textiles she chooses for her creations. “I create my own fabrics from scratch because this is the only way to keep my own identity and originality,” she says. “Some people question how one can be original and international at the same time; but, for me, originality is international. This must be the starting point. “I never think about whom I am designing for,” adds Koshino. “I

don’t think about age, gender or nationality. It is who comes and feels what I feel.”

Contemplating a few minutes further, she adds: “Of course, it is still very important to follow business using things like client

databases and that sort of thing, but I must create first of all,” says Koshino. “Then people will come.”

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The question then arises as to what comes first: the original textile or the design concept.

“I start creating the textile first, not the idea of what I will eventually design,” she replies. “I take inspiration from César, a French sculptor famous for his radical compression works. His inspiration was starting from nothing.

“But there is always something; even when there is nothing on the table,” says Koshino. “There is still a block of air. There is a bulk and shape in that space. I think it is important to see what does not exist in front of you.”

Discovering, and staying true to, one’s personal style is a lesson Koshino says she learned very early on in her career. She laughs as she tells the story of a class she once gave to a group of Japanese elementary school children.

“I told the children I wanted them to create things that were different from each other,” says Koshino. “One child sat quietly there for an hour, so eventually I asked her what she was doing.

“She replied that she was waiting for everyone else to finish their work, so she could see it before making sure her own creation was completely different,” says Koshino. “I was very impressed with the patience of this child.”

Koshino is particularly well known for her use of high tech and handmade artisanal fabrics, and joins others in the industry voicing a concern about a growing shortage of skilled craftsmen.

“It’s a universal problem to find good artisans like weavers. I need the highest level of handcrafted work, but this is becoming much harder to find,” says Koshino. “Japan is a bit better than other countries; even China and India with their long traditions of handwork are fast becoming commercial.

“I think it is important to keep pushing. I always have an idea of what I want, and then I demand the quality,” she says. “At the same time, it is important to keep educating the next generation, even in Japan.”

Catherine Shaw is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

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reborn to be wildby JulIan ryall

Imported motorbikes report record sales in Japan as riders seek iconic brands, classic styling and a unique lifestyle.

TRENDS

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There was a time when foreign-built motorcycles ruled the world’s roads, and names such as Triumph, Norton, Harley-Davidson and Ducati were synonymous with success on racetracks and sales at showrooms. Then came the 1970s and the arriv al in the market of two-wheeled vehicles by Japanese manufacturers. In less than a decade, the old names were replaced on the roads by hordes of Suzukis, Hondas and Kawasakis, which were cheap, efficient and reliable.

Some distinguished names in the world of motorcycles went to the wall, including Enfield, Sprite and Raleigh, while others went into a kind of automotive limbo—the name surviving, but the company unable to develop any new products.

But it remains a truism that, sooner or later, devotees will hark back to the good old days. Which is why a new generation of riders is looking to get astride some very powerful—and beautifully engineered—motorcycles.

Ducati and BMW motorcycles, long renowned for their engineering as well as looks, are also popular purchases in Japan; but it is another old hand that has recently been muscling in on the Japanese market.

Triumph has been around since 1905, surviving a number of reincarnations as its fate swung in the balance; but the brand was

sufficiently strong again by 2005 to set up a Japanese subsidiary, according to company spokesman Yosuke Onishi.

“Japanese people like Triumphs for three reasons: they’re British, their design and engines mark them out as one-of-a-kind, and they are authentic motorcycles,” he says.

And, in the Japanese market, it does their reputation no harm to find that they are priced very competitively—and have an excellent record for reliability.

“Japanese people choose these bikes because they have a longing for British culture and brands, plus they want to stand out from the crowd and be unique,” says Onishi. “These are people who want to be seen to be doing their own thing.”

Triumph sells around 2,000 motorbikes each year in Japan, with the iconic Bonneville T100 and the Daytona 675—the only three-cylinder bike on the road—the most popular. Most riders are male and in their forties, and they are willing to spend more than ¥2.6 million for the bike of their dreams.

Sales of luxury goods—such as high-end, imported motorcycles—are likely to take a hit in the present economic climate, but Triumph is committed to the Japanese market and is preparing to launch two new models here in the spring.

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“Triumph has a strong heritage and a smart image,” adds Onishi. “We are committed to keeping a strong position in this tight market and giving our customers an outstanding experience.”

“I do not think I could go back to having a Japanese motorbike now,” says Mark Hibbs, a 44-year-old investor who has lived in Japan since 1999 and driven a range of two-wheeled imports.

“When I first arrived here, I was attracted to Harley-Davidsons because they were not the sort of bike I would normally ride in Britain,” he says. “All the bikes I had there were Japanese; so when I got here and saw all these people driving Harleys, I wanted to find out what all the fuss was about.”

Hibbs, who has since had three Harley-Davidsons and a Ducati, says he was glad he did.

“Harleys are always good fun in Tokyo, and they handle a lot better in the traffic than you would think,” says Hibbs, who has taken his motorcycles touring the country, from Hokkaido to Kyushu and Shikoku.

“Tradition, freedom, adventure and the journey are the typical images that Japanese people have when they think about our products,” says Katsuya Masuda, a spokesman for Harley-Davidson Japan.

The first Harley-Davidson was brought into Japan in 1913, and the bike has a high brand-recognition among aficionados, helping the company to sell close to 15,000 units in 2007. The average purchaser is in his early forties—and an increasing number of riders are female, points out Masuda. They are seeking what Harley-Davidson defines as its “look, sound and feel.”

“There are several factors why people choose a Harley-Davidson,” he says. “There is the history and heritage of an appearance that has not changed since the earliest models, yet still incorporates the latest technology.

“Then there is the unique engine sound, which is different from anything else on the roads,” says Masuda. “And the third major difference is that we provide the whole lifestyle, not just the product. We want riders to enjoy their Harley-Davidson, as well as their families, so we organize a lot of events.”

More than 30 types of Harley-Davidson are available in Japan at present, ranging in price from ¥883,000 to nearly ¥4.5 million for the Ultra Classic Electra Glide with sidecar. The most popular model is the XL1200L, which has a low seat that suits Japanese riders and is more compact than other models, making it ideal for Japanese road conditions.

One of the companies that has been brought back from the brink is Norton, the British company that was earlier this year purchased by an entrepreneur who wants to see the marque resume its rightful place.

Initial plans are a 5,000m2 new factory at Donnington Park—the heart of British motorcycle racing—and the production of the 961 Commando. That will be followed by a new generation of rotary-engine racing bikes for a company that gained fame in the 1940s and 1950s with its Commando and Dominator series.

Norton experienced its golden age between 1947 and 1954, when its bikes dominated every year of the world-famous Isle of Man TT race.

“This is the beginning of a new and exciting era in a brand that was started over 100 years ago by James Lansdowne Norton,” says new owner Stuart Garner. “It has sustained ups and downs over the years, but still stands for performance and excellence. These will be the standards we live by from now on.”

Julian Ryall is Tokyo correspondent for The Daily Telegraph.

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new year, new youIt’s back to basics to get fit in 2009.by nIcole fall

We do it to ourselves every year without fail. Reach for the pretzels and nuts too often, binge on eggnog because it’s the holiday season, and overload dinner plates because it’s rude to say no.

As your tummy jiggles long after you stop moving and clothes feel tighter than usual, the thought of heading out into the cold weather for a jog is as scary as reliving that hangover at the start of the new year.Worse than knowing you need to get back on the bike and exercise, there remain so much conflicting diet advice out there that it is difficult to know anymore what the average person needs to do to stay fit and healthy.

In this season, looking good in swimwear is the least of our priorities. In fact, just fitting into a pair of beloved jeans would be a good start. To make the process of losing weight that much easier, the Kaleidoscope team has separated the wheat from the chaff to determine the cheat’s guide to looking and feeling good—quickly.

We turned to personal trainer Jeff Libengood, longtime Tokyo resident, for sage advice—and then discarded anything that sounded like too much work. After all, no one will see our flesh on display for another few months.

What are the fundamental rules to losing weight and keeping it off?Eat “‘cleaner”’ food choices, such as raw, whole foods; seafood

and poultry. Ingredients like sugar, aspartame, chemicals, pesticides, antibiotics, fillers, chemicals, dyes and nitrates are slow toxic poisons to the body that adversely affect its health and its functions … including weight loss.

Is following a faddy diet worse than eating unhealthy food regularly?Would you rather get stabbed with a knife or shot by a bow and

arrow? Neither is good; they both hurt and they are both slow deaths … so it becomes which is the lesser of two evils?

□ Banana diet

□ apple diet□ chocolate diet

HEALTH

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First, almost all faddy dieters eat unhealthy diets. Otherwise, dieting wouldn’t be necessary. Faddy dieting turns the body and its organs into a fluctuating accordion. Most fad diets are unhealthy anyway. They focus on one item.

Did you read about the two ladies who recently died in Japan following the “stone” diet? Yes, they ate stones! Then there is the banana diet, the apple diet, the chocolate diet. My question is … Why not follow a balanced diet? It’s so much easier, healthier, and produces far better results.

How much exercise should one do as a minimum to keep fit?The absolute minimum should be three times a week for 60 minutes,

each broken down into 30 minutes of anaerobic strength work, 15 minutes of cardio work and 15 minutes of flexibility. This hits the four major components of fitness: strength, muscular endurance, cardiovascular conditioning and flexibility. If you are over 40, you should add in extra flexibility work.

What’s more important to health: keeping fit and maybe being fat; or being slim through dieting, but not exercising enough?

This is a loaded question and often asked. My response is it is a trade-off. Exercise definition is a cultural thing. Compare Japanese and Americans. On the whole, the Japanese are more “active” than Americans in that they walk more during the day taking trains to and from their apartment. Americans will drive for 20 minutes in a parking lot to take 30 seconds off their walk time to the mall entrance. Having an active lifestyle [walking, bicycling, taking the train to work], eating a healthier diet and maintaining a lighter body weight, is better than being overly fat, and having poor diet and half-hearted workouts.

What’s the best time of day to exercise and why?If you want to lose fat and have an alert day … definitely the morning.

In the morning you are in a fasted state from sleeping all night, and your glycogen stores are lowest, meaning once you commence exercise you

will tap into the fat stores much more quickly than exercising later in the day. It is said that you can burn up to three times more fat by exercising in the morning versus the evening.

What’s the worst snack food? There are numerous. Drinks that are high in calories, sugar; and high-

fructose corn syrup. Eat your calories. Don’t drink them.Why do most women, except Victoria Beckham, put on weight after

having kids?There could be several reasons. The body has innate intelligence, and

it changes during pregnancy by adjusting for another life. After birth, it is instinctive in which it must have reserves for maintaining care [breast feeding and health of the mother]. Also, lack of control of eating by the mother, in which she eats for two, and is more unfit before pregnancy make it a tougher trail afterwards.

Why do some women seemingly not put on weight, yet eat lots of cakes?

I think it is because they only eat one piece and the volume is low. Also, their body frames could be smaller. But make no mistake, many of these women have flab and very de-conditioned muscles with very little real functional strength.

Are high-protein diets bad for you?Yes. High-protein diets lack adequate vitamins; mineral and fiber

intake. There is also a restriction of the necessary carbohydrates in the form of veggies, fruits and grains. This is brain food, and also lowers blood pressure.

In a nutshell, the only fitness resolution we need to follow—not just this year, but consistently—is to be more active and eat less.

www.jeffsfitness.com/

Nicole Fall is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

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