Just for kicks - pennywatson.com.au Islands.pdf · ★ LEARN HINDI ★ PH 9852 1395 Bali JIMBARAN...
Transcript of Just for kicks - pennywatson.com.au Islands.pdf · ★ LEARN HINDI ★ PH 9852 1395 Bali JIMBARAN...
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22November 8, 2009
travel
Just for kicksFootball, religion and art merge to create this island paradise, writes Penny Watson.
Football fanatics down south mighthave hung up their boots for theseason but here in the Northern Territory, things are hotting up.
While the kids are kicking aroundthe footy, I’m kicking myself for having fl own into Nguiu one day too early. It’s the fi rst weekend of the NT Football Leagueseason and tomorrow there’s a grudge match between the local Tiwi Bombersand Darwin’s St Mary’s. St Mary’s are theobvious favourites but that’s not stoppingthe locals from hawking red and blackT-shirts and hoping the home-ground advantage pays off.
Nguiu is the main township on Bathurst Island, one of two that make upthe Tiwi Islands, 100 kilometres north of Darwin. The relative isolation has affordedthe Tiwi Islanders a language and culturequite distinct from mainland indigenouscommunities, even those of Arnhem Land.Rimmed by turquoise water and studdedwith eucalypts, the islands are somethingof a paradise. Saltwater rivers wigglesnake-like across the bush, brimming with barramundi, and freshwater springsprovide swimming holes away from thesaltwater crocs and stingers.
The lay of the land is best appreciated from a small plane on the 20-minute fl ight from Darwin but there’s also a two-hour
ferry. Either option, combined with a day-tour (there is no accommodation), willscore visitors the required permit. Fittingly,the only time permits are waived is ongrand fi nal day in March.
As we drive past the footy oval, a roughshod ground with a bar housed in acorrugated iron building, Trevor, my tourguide, tells me the Catholic missionaries introduced the sport soon after they arrived in 1911. “Aussie Rules Football is our second religion,” he says proudly.
Judging by the fervour around town, I’m tipping it comes in at No. 1 for some.With his Carlton cap on his head, Fabian “Teabag” Kantilla dusts the ash off a disc of freshly cooked damper, while giving me a ribbing for supporting Collingwood.
In two ticks the damper is sliced up and passed around to kick off a culturalget-together hosted by indigenous elders, a demonstration of basket weaving, ceremonial dancing and face-painting.
Afterwards we tour the town. On a large block is lovely old St Therese’s, a Catholic church with an altar featuringanimal totems in the traditional crosshatchstyle. Even the baptismal font is daubed in rusty red, yellow and brown dots.
Not far from the church, PatakijiyaliMuseum is housed in an air-conditionedtin shed with an exhibition including
decorated spears, food foraging displays and a sequence of paintings outlining the creation story of the Tiwi people.
If football and religion vie for fi rst and second slot, art comes a close third. It not only brightens the walls at the localschool, it has achieved national recognitionfor its distinctive style. After lunch, wevisit Ngaruwanajirri, a workshop for artistswith disabilities, and Tiwi Design artcomplex. I wander into the pottery studiowhere an artist is painting a ceramic bowl. He’s wearing a St Kilda cap and I can’t help but hope that tomorrow’s Bombershave more luck than the Saints.* M
* Unfortunately the Bombers went down toSt Mary’s, 12.11-83 to 16.5-101.
Penny Watson was a guest of Tourism NT.
Art, as seen at Ngaruwanajirri, is as important
to the Tiwi Islanders as football and religion.
PICTURES: PENNY WATSON
THE FACTSJetstar (jetstar.
com) has direct
fl ights from
Melbourne to Darwin
for $159 return (carry on bags only).
Virgin (virginblue.com.au) has direct
fl ights from Melbourne to Darwin from
$115 one-way (plus $10 per checked
bag).
Tiwi Tours adult/child $429/$303;
aussieadventure.com.au; 08 8923
6523/1300 721 365
Tiwi Art Network Art Tours from $550;
tiwiart.com; 08 8941 3593
Ferry Tours adult/child $317/215;
seacat.com.au/arafurapearl.htm;
08 8941 1991