July 2013 - CBCSD · 2013-07-16 · the suppliers’ facility. The Joint Roadmap referred to this...

ZERO DISCHARGE OF HAZARDOUS CHEMICALS

BENCHMARKING REPORT

July 2013

2013

ES021913202409MKE

2Benchmarking Report

Acronyms and Abbreviations .............................................4

Introduction ........................................................................5

Background ........................................................................6

Study Objectives ................................................................7

Approach ............................................................................8Benchmarking Site Selection ................................................................................ 8Factory Information Collection .............................................................................. 8Laboratory Selection ............................................................................................ 9Limitations ........................................................................................................... 9

Site Visit Protocol ............................................................10Chemicals Management and Inventory Assessment ............................................ 10Sampling ............................................................................................................ 10Waste Treatment Assessment ............................................................................. 11

Key Findings .....................................................................12Chemicals Management ..................................................................................... 12Waste Treatment ............................................................................................... 14

Effluent (Wastewater) .......................................................................................... 14Sludge ................................................................................................................... 14

Laboratory Testing Results .................................................................................. 15Water Sample Results Summary ......................................................................... 15

Heavy Metals ....................................................................................................... 17Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins ........................................................................ 18PFCs ...................................................................................................................... 18APEOs ................................................................................................................... 19

Regulatory Limits for Effluent ............................................................................. 20Sludge Sample Results ........................................................................................ 21

Contents


Conclusions ......................................................................23Key Chemical Classes Found in Discharges .......................................................... 23Chemical Management and Information Improvement Opportunity ................... 23Infrastructure Considerations ............................................................................. 24Training .............................................................................................................. 24

Next Steps ........................................................................25Action Items for Key Chemical Classes Found in Discharges ................................. 25Chemical Management and Information Improvement Opportunity ................... 26

Addendum


Acronyms and AbbreviationsAPE alkylphenols

APEO alkylphenol ethoxylates

BOD biological oxygen demand

COD chemical oxygen demand

MSDS Material Safety Data Sheets

N.D. non detect

PFC per-andpoly-fluorinatedchemicals

PFOA perfluorooctanoicacid

PFOS perfluorooctanesulfonicacid

PPB parts per billion

PPE personalprotectiveequipment

PPM parts per million

RSL RestrictedSubstanceList

SCCP Short-ChainedChlorinatedParaffin

SDS Safety Data Sheets

TSS totalsuspendedsolids

μg/L microgramsperliter

μg/mL microgramspermilliliter

ZDHC ZeroDischargeofHazardousChemicals

Units comparison

PPM(partpermillion)=mg/L(milligramsperliter),mg/kg(milligramsperkilogram) PPB(partperbillion)=μg/L(microgramsperliter),μg/kg(microgramsperkilogram) PPT(partspertrillion=ng/L(nanogramsperliter),ng/kg(nanogramsperkilogram)

Example:20ppt=20ng/L=0.020μg/L


IntroductionTheZeroDischargeofHazardousChemicals(ZDHC)Programmeisanambitiousplanthatsetsanewstandardofenvironmentalperformancefortheglobalapparelandfootwearindustry.Thegroupformedin2011tocatalyzepositiveindustrychangeandaligntothegoalofzerodischargeofhazardouschemicalsacrosstheproductlifecycleby2020.

Acriticalfirststeptoeliminatingandmanagingchemicalsacrossthesupplychain,notjustinproducts,involvesunderstandinghowoursupplychainpartnersidentifyandapplychemicalsindifferenttextileprocesses,includingthosethatareusedinmanufacturingprocessesandnotintentionallyaddedtoproducts.Beforeidentifyinganddevelopingadditionalproceduresandtools,wewantedtofullyunderstandthiscomplexityandcreatedtheBenchmarkingProjectwiththisin mind.

Aspartofitsfoundationalworkin2012,theZDHCBenchmarkingProjectteamconductedinformationalsitevisitsat20supplierlocationstoobservechemicalsmanagementpractices,tonotechemicalinventoriesandtotestinfluent,effluentandsludgedischarges.Thetestingprotocolcoveredchemicalsacross11chemicalclasseswhichhavebeentargetedforrestrictionand/oreliminationinthesupplychain.Thisreportprovidesanoverviewofthesesupplierbenchmarkingsitevisits,keyfindingsandtheactionitemsthatthegroupplanstoundertakebasedonthestudyresults.

TheBenchmarkingProjectteamwouldliketothankourfactorypartnerswhowerekeytomakingthebenchmarkingstudyareality,andwewouldliketoacknowledgetheirtime,effortandpatiencewiththenumberofsamplingteams,consultantsandZDHCmemberswhovisitedtheirsites.


BackgroundTheZDHCJointRoadmapreleasedinNovember2011identifiedtheareasinwhichZDHCmemberscouldconductresearchandtakeactiontoguidethegrouptowardthe2020goalofzerodischargeofhazardouschemicals.

OneoftheprojectsidentifiedintheNovember2011JointRoadmapinvolvedconductingbenchmarkingsitevisitsatsupplierlocationstobetterunderstandwhichchemicalsfrom11restrictedchemicalclassesaredischargedintreatedeffluentatsupplierfacilitiesandhowthechemicalsdetectedmightrelatetothechemicalsmanagement,inventoryandtextileprocessesoccurringwithinthesuppliers’facility.TheJointRoadmapreferredtothisprojectasProject1orP01.1

Table1liststhe11chemicalclassestheZDHCcommunityexaminedinthisstudyandtheirtypicalusesinthetextileindustry.Brandshavehistoricallyrestrictedchemicalsubstancesinatleast10ofthe11chemicalclasseslistedthroughRestrictedSubstanceLists(RSLs)andprogrammes,witharecentadditionoflong-chainper-orpoly-fluorinatedchemicals(PFCs),includingperfluorooctanoicacid(PFOA)andperfluorooctanesulfonicacid(PFOS).

1 TheJointRoadmapspecificallystatedtheZDHCmemberswould“Benchmarkandverifywhetherthenineclassesofchemicals…areindischargetowaterorsludgethroughacarefullydesignedprocessofon-sitevisitsandaudits,inventoriesandanalyticswhereappropriate…DatawouldalsobecollectedontheuseanddischargeofAlkylphenolethoxylates(APEOs)andPerfluorinatedChemicals(PFCs).”

The research conducted through this benchmarking project helped ZDHC to fully understand the complexity

involved in eliminating chemicals across textile processes, including those used

in manufacturing processes and not intentionally added to products.

For more information about the phase out of specific PFCs, visit the ZDHC programme website at: www.roadmaptozero.com/df.php?file=pdf/Phaseout.pdf

Table 1ElevenChemicalClassesandTypicalUsesinTextileProduction

Chemical Classes Typical Uses in the Textile Industry

Specific Process Where Class of Chemical is Utilized

Alkylphenol Ethoxylates/Alkylphenols (APEOs/APEs)

Cleaners, detergents, sizing agents Desizing, scouring, washing, dyeing, softening

Halogenated Flame Retardants Flame retardants Functional finishingChlorinated (Halogenated) Solvents Spot cleaners, dry cleaning, scouring

agentsSizing, dry cleaning, scouring

Chlorinated Benzenes Solvents, fiber swelling agents DyeingChlorophenols Textile preservatives, pesticides Pest control, sizing, dyeing, preservationHeavy Metals Dyes, pigments, catalyst Fiber polymerising, dyeing, printing, tanningOrganotin Compounds (e.g., TBT) Antimicrobial agents, preservatives,

catalystsDyeing, leathering coating, pu synthesising

Per- and poly-fluorinated chemicals Durable water repellents and their by-products

Functional finishing (water/oil repellent)

Ortho-phthalates Plasticiser Dyeing, printing, coating, softeningShort-Chained Chlorinated Paraffins Leather conditioning TanningAzo dyes that may release carcinogenic amines as defined in Annex XVII of REACH

By-product of banned dyes Dyeing, printing


Study ObjectivesThisBenchmarkingProjectisthefirstofalogicalsuccessiontoJointRoadmapcommitmentsandprojects.Theinformationcollectedwillinformdevelopmentofanactionplantoaddressprioritisationandmanagementofanyofthechemicalsthatwerefoundduringthisstudy.

GiventhehistoryofrestrictedsubstancesandtheexpansivescopeandmissionoftheZDHCgroup,theprimaryobjectivesofthebenchmarkingstudywere:

Toidentifywhetheranalytesfrom11chemicalclassesarepresentindischargesatsupplierlocationsandatwhatlevels

Toidentifypotentialpracticesthatleadtoinconsistentcontrolofchemicalsubstancesinproductsand/orprocesses

Thisstudyalsohadsecondlevelobjectivestoinform the ZDHC members regarding:

The best pathways to engage and partner with suppliersonfuturechemicalsmanagementprogrammes

Thepotentialbarriersthatmaybeencounteredinimprovingchemicalsmanagementinoursupplychain

Thetechnicalhurdlesinvolvingcomplexsamplingandlaboratoryanalyticaltestingcapabilities

Usinginformationgatheredinthiscollaborativebenchmarkingeffort,theZDHCgroupwilltargetandscalethekeyactivitiesthatwillenableconsistentmanagementand/orphaseoutofchemicalstohelpusmeetthegoalofzerodischargeofhazardouschemicalsinoursupplychains.


ApproachWeevaluatedthepresenceorabsenceoftargetchemicalsindischargesthroughacarefullydesignedprocessthatincludedsiteselection,on-siteassessmentsandanalysis,inventoriesandanalytics,whereappropriate.Indevelopingtheapproach,weexpectedtounderstandthefollowing:

Howdoweknowwhichrestrictedchemicalsarestillinuseinoursupplychain?

Howdoweknowwhichchemicalstoprioritise(basedondischargeinformationgathered)?

Doweseeanycommonfactorscontributingtothedischargeofhazardouschemicals?

Inbuildingtheapproach,ZDHCmemberscollaboratedtoselectsitesanddevelopthechemicallisttobeappliedtoinvestigationsateachfacility.Eachoftheseimportantconsiderationsisoutlinedbelow,aswellasbackgroundonlaboratoryselection.

Benchmarking Site Selection TheZDHCgroupselectedacrosssectionofsuppliers,consideringprocesses,rawmaterialsandgeographiclocationsasselectioncriteria.ThesuppliersselectedrepresentonesthatZDHCbrandmember’sdobusinesswithonaregularbasis.Keyprocessestargetedweredyeingandfinishing,washing,printinganddurablewaterrepellentapplicationforarangeofspecifictextiletypesincludingcotton,polyester,denimandleather.TheBenchmarkingProjectteamselected20sitesinfivecountriesincludingBangladesh,China,India,TaiwanandVietnam.

ConsultantsandrepresentativesfromtheZDHCbrandscomprisedtheoverallprojectteam.Athird-partysupplychainconsultantsupportedthisprojectandcollectedchemicalsmanagementinformationandreviewedwastewatertreatmentfacilities.Additionalconsultantswereengagedtocoordinateandguidethelaboratories,assistwithsamplecollection,overseeanalyticaldatahandlingandcompareresultstoavailabledischargelimits.

Factory Information CollectionTheZDHCmembersoutlinedacoordinatedefforttogainafirsthandlookintopracticesregardingchemicalinventories,wastetreatmentplantoperations,inventoriesanddetailedfactorydischargeinformation.

Figure 1 SiteVisitsbyCountry

Benchmarking Sites

Vietnam

Bangladesh

India

China

Taiwan


Laboratory Selection Attheoutsetofthestudy,theBenchmarkingProjectteamdevelopedalistofchemicals,labproceduresandrecommendedreportinglimitsbasedoninternationallyrecognizedanalyticalproceduresandprevioussiteinvestigationsconductedbynon-ZDHCmemberorganisations.Thisinformationwasusedtoidentifylabpartnersthatcouldmeetalltherequirementsofthebenchmarkingstudy.

Laboratorieswereselectedtoperformanalyticalservicesbasedonseveralfactors:

MaintainingISO17025accreditation

Abilitytomeettherequestedreportinglimits,whichwerebelowstandardoperatingprocedureinseveralcases

Ability to handle the sample matrices

Staffknowledgeandavailabilitytoconductthefieldsamplingevents

Abilitytodeliverdatainspecifiedformats

ZDHCmembersidentifiedandusedthreelaboratoriesthatsatisfiedallrequirementsforthisstudy.In2012andearly2013,duringprojectimplementation,BenchmarkingProjectteam members worked with the selected laboratories to gather the most appropriate set ofdatapossible.Teammembersdevelopedandconductedtrainingforlaboratorypersonnel,definedlistsofchemicalsforeachsitebasedonproductiontype,developedsolutionstoexpeditesample shipment and assisted in compiling data fromseverallaboratories.

LimitationsTheselectionof20sitesincludesfactorypartnersthatareroutinelyinusebyZDHCbrand'smembers.Thenumberofsitesinthisstudymaynotfullyrepresentthecompletesupplychainbutdoeshoweverprovideasnapshotofcurrentpracticesatanumberofkeyfacilities.TheBenchmarkingStudywillassisttheZDHCmembers in related work streams headed towardsthegoalofzerodischargeofhazardouschemicals.Thegoalwastogatherinformationoncurrentpracticesandnotcontinuetoconductthisstudyasanongoingworkstream.


Site Visit ProtocolThesitevisitprotocolwasdesignedtocollecttwodifferenttypesofinformation:qualitativeinformation(relatedtochemicalsmanagement,inventoryandwastetreatment)andquantitativeinformation(specificallywaterandsludgedata).

Chemicals Management and Inventory AssessmentTheBenchmarkingProjectteamsconductedfullchemicalsmanagementandinventoryassessmentsat18ofthe20studysites.Fortwosites,thescopeofworkonlycoveredanalyticaleffluentsampling.

Ateachsitevisit,thethird-partyconsultantandZDHCteamconductedanassessmentofcurrentchemicalsmanagementandinventorypractices.Theteamsreviewedinformationwiththefacilitystaffandconductedawalkthroughtoreviewtheproductionfloorandchemicalsmanagementinpractice.Specificobservationsweremaderegarding chemical management policies and stafftraining,MaterialDataSafetySheets(MSDS)orotherinventoryinformation,inventorystorageandarrangement,handling,safetypoliciesandpracticeandapplicablecertifications.

Thesitevisitsandassessmentsattemptedtocapturetypicalbehaviorbutshouldbeviewedasasnapshotintimeandmaynotrepresentallpossiblefactoryconfigurationsorpracticesinthesupplychain.

Sampling Ateachsite,theteamscollectedsampletypesincluding:influent(waterenteringthefacility),dayeffluent(dischargeaftertreatmentsystem),nighteffluentandsludge(solidscapturedfromthe wastewater stream).

TheBenchmarkingProjectteamcoordinatedwithlabstoensurepropertechnicalproceduresforsampling,includingtheuseofappropriatesamplecontainers,preservationofsamplesandadherencetoqualitycontrolmeasures.Theteamalsoworkeddirectlywiththesupplier’sstafftodeterminewhenarepresentativecross-sectionofmaterialsoramanufacturingprocesswouldbeonaproductionline.

Samplingplansweredevelopedforeachfacilitytype,includingtanneries,finishing,waterrepellentandwashing,assamplinglocations,timesandevenchemicalsbeinginvestigatedrequiredadaptation.Afulllistofchemicals,methodsused,reportinglimitsandresultsisprovidedinthereportaddendum.


Waste Treatment AssessmentBenchmarkingProjectteamscollectedinformationabouton-sitewastewatertreatmentfacilityoperations.Thisinformationincludedsludgewastehandlingproceduresanddisposaltypes.Resultsfromtheeightsitesareprovidedinthereportaddendum,whichrepresentthemajorityofthetechnologiesinuse.

Factory Water Flow

Water SamplesTheteamanalyzedatotalof28effluentsamplesfrom20sites.Foreightsites,theteamtooktwoeffluentsamplespersite,oneduringthedayandoneduringthenighttocomparechangesindischargeconcentrationsacrossdifferentproductionshifts.Sludge SamplesTheteamcollectedandanalyzedatotalof18sludgesamplesfrom20sites.Sludgesampleswereonlycollectedandanalyzedduringdaytimehours,asthesludgesamplesareacompositesampleandeachrepresentsalonger“snapshot”oftimethanwatersamples.

Tracey Saxby, IAN Image Library (ian.umces.edu/imagelibrary)

Water in(influent)

FactoryProduction/Processing

WastewaterTreatment

Sludge Removal

Discharge(Effluent)


Key FindingsThissectionoutlineskeyfindingsregardingchemicalsmanagementandinventories,difficultiesthatfactorypartnershaveinreceivingchemicalinformationaboutcomplexmixturesfromsuppliers,factorywastetreatmentoperationsandanalyticalresultsfromthelaboratories.

Chemicals Management Aproperchemicalsmanagementsystemcanincreasethetransparencyofthemanufacturingprocess,provideasafeworkingenvironmentforstaffandbenefittheecologicalenvironment.Inthisstudy,18of20factorieswereassessedinthefollowingareas:chemicalpolicy,stafftraining,chemicalshandling,safetypolicyandmanagementofdocuments,includingMSDSandchemicalinventory.

Chemicalsmanagementinalargesupplychainiscomplex;inmanycases,hundredsofchemicalformulationsmaybepresentinasinglefactory.Eachoftheseformulationsmaycontainfrom1to20ormoredifferentingredients,withonlysomeoftheingredientsbeingdivulgedtothefactorythatisusingtheproduct.

TheBenchmarkingProjectteamsobservedthatmostfactorieshaddocumentedchemicalmanagementsystemguidelines,butinpractice,theimplementationofthepolicywaslessreliableandvariedfromsuppliertosupplier.Althoughallsuppliershadanassignedpersonresponsibleformanagingthechemicalsusedinfacilities,theimplementationofactualprocessingdidnotstrictlyfollowthewrittenguideline.Forexample,onesitehadformalwrittenprotocolsanddocumentation,butimplementationofprotocolsontheproductionfloorwasinconsistent.

Theworkerknowledgelevelregardingsafehandlingofchemicalsvaried.Althoughmostofthesitesprovidedpersonalprotectiveequipment(PPE)toworkers,threeofthefactories did not properly demonstrate the useofPPEandhandlingofthechemicalsinasafe way.

AnothersignificantobservationfromthisstudyisthequalityofMSDS.Only11%ofthesuppliershadcomplete,correctinformationonfileforchemicals.Theissuewastwofold:first,somechemicalsuppliersdidnotprovideMSDSorSafetyDataSheets(SDS)ofsufficientquality.Second,duetoconfidentialbusinessinformationconcerns,theingredientsinchemicalproductswerelabeledas“TradeSecrets”oromittedwhentheirconcentrationswerelessthan1%pertypicalMSDSstandards.Thelackofsufficientchemicalinformationdoesnotallowthefactorytojudgewhetherthechemicalsmaybesafelyusedinproductionandwhethertheypreventthepresenceofrestricted ingredients in the chemicals.

Duringtheassessments,thefollowingtrendsregardingavailabilityofchemicalinformationatsupplierlocationswerenoted.Thequalityofchemical

Figure 2Chemicals Management Inputs

ProcessKnowledge/

TrainingInput

ManagementProduct

Knowledge

ChemicalManagement


inventoryandassociatedsystemsvaried,rangingfrom being stored on an Excel spreadsheet to theirmaintenanceinaformaldatabasesystem,withthemajorityofthesupplierskeepingcompleteinventoriesandproperlylabelingchemicals.However,theteamsobservedlabelingissues(e.g.,unlabelledcontainers)at33%ofsuppliersitesasshowninFigure3.Properlabelingisimperativeforensuringthecorrectchemicalsareusedinagivenprocess.Inaddition,thisinformationisnecessarytoenableworkerstoknowhowtoprotectthemselvesproperlywhenworking with those chemicals.

Inatleastfourcases,thesupplierdidnotwanttovolunteerspecificchemicalinventoryinformationregardingthecommercialproductstheyuseintheir processes. They noted concerns related to releasingconfidentialbusinessinformationiftheyweretosharethisinformation.

The Complex Supply ChainEnsuringproperchemicalsmanagementinalargesupplychainiscomplexandwerecognizethechallengesfacedbyoursupplyingpartners.Hundredsofchemicalformulationsmight be present in a single factory in theformofdyes,auxiliaries,detergents,lubricants,etc.Eachoftheseformulationsmaycontainmanydifferentingredients,withonlyaportionofthoseingredientsbeingdivulgedbythemanufacturer.Thisisduetotradesecretsandlimitedreportingrequirements.Thirdandfourthtiersuppliersaddcomplexitytothesupplychainandtraceability of chemicals.

Were MSDS’ of GoodQuality and Complete?

Yes, 11%

No, 89%1

Were ChemicalsProperly Labelled?

Yes, 67%

No, 33%

Figure 3AvailabilityofChemicalInformationandProperLabeling


Waste Treatment Allofthefacilitiesvisitedinthisbenchmarkingstudywereoperatingwastewatertreatmentsystemsduringthevisits.Thefactorieswereallingoodstandingwithlocalauthoritiesanddischargeofwaterandsludgewastefollowedallapplicablelocalregulations.However,innocasedidlocalregulationscoverthefullsuiteofchemicalsthatwereinvestigatedinthebenchmarkingstudy.

Avarietyofwaterandsludgetreatmentsystemswereencounteredinthisstudy.Tosummarizethewastetreatmentoperationsinuse,theprocessescanbecombinedintoasmallnumberofoperativetypesforeachdischargetype:

Water Dischargeoftreatedwaterdirectlytoasurfacewater body

Discharge of treated water to a secondary municipaltreatmentsystem

Sludge Sludgeisincinerated Sludgeisnotincinerated

Sludgeisusedasafuel

Effluent (Wastewater)Thewatertreatmentsystemstypicallyinuseincludedasettlingorfiltrationprocess,acoolingtower,pHadjustment,asolidsseparationprocessandbiologicaldegradationofsludge(eitheraerobic,anaerobic,orboth)priortodischarge.

Secondaryortertiarytreatmentprocesseswereinplaceatmostfacilities,butthevarietyofthesetreatmentsismoreexpansive.Approximatelyhalf

ofthefacilitiesvisitedwerecurrentlyrecyclingwater from their own waste treatment facility for useinotherindustrialprocesses.

SludgeSludgeiscreatedbycapturingthesolidsportionoftheeffluentstreampriortodischarge.Allfacilitieshadsystemsinplacetoseparatethesludge(solidswaste)fromtheeffluentstreamusingavarietyofcapturemethods.Separationofsolidsfromthewaste stream was typically being performed by one or more of the following processes:

Filtrationusingmembranes,screens,orotherphysical barriers

Settlingthesolidsoutinalargetank

Coagulation(combiningsmallparticlesintolargeronessotheyaremoreeffectivelysegregated from the water)

Eachfacilityalsoemployedasludgethickeningprocesstoremovewaterandincreasesludgedensitypriortofinaldischarge.Onceseparatedandthickenedorsolidified,thesludgewasdisposedofinavarietyofways,including:

a. Factorycontractswithauthorizedcontractortoperform disposal work. Final disposal method wasspecifiedinsomecases.

“Sludge”isthesolidportionofthewastestreamthatcollectsoveraperiodoftimeandwhichissegregatedfromthewastewater stream.The solids in the waste stream may be comprisedofsmalltextileparticles,dirt,cleaningproducts,chemicalprecipitates,oranyotherlooselyboundmaterialthatenters a processing step.

Secondary and Tertiary Water Treatment Types Encountered• Grit screening• Secondarycoagulation/flocculation• Secondaryaerobicand/oranaerobic

sludgetreatment• Advancedoxidationprocess

• Constructedwetlandtreatment• Sandfiltration• Ultrafiltration• Activatedcarbonadsorption• Recyclingofwaterforchromiumreuse


b. Incineration

c. Sludgeusedbylocalpowerplantasfuel

d. Sludgeusedbythefactorytopowertheboilers

Allsiteswereoperatingtreatmentsystemsdesigned to treat chemical discharge in factory effluent.Noneofthefactorieswasreleasinguntreatedwastewaterintoasurfacewaterbodyortoamunicipaltreatmentsystem.Theeffectivenessofeachtypeoftreatmentsystemvariesandproperoperationandmaintenanceofatreatmentsystemisakeyfactorineliminatingunwantedchemicalsoncetheyentertheproductionprocess.

Laboratory Testing ResultsInthemajorityofcases,theBenchmarkingProjectteamobservedthatfactorydischargewaswellbelowanyavailabledischargelimitsforeffluent.Theinformationpresentedinthisreportincludesalldetectionsinthesamples,asfardownastheanalyticalmethodsandlaboratorieswerecapableofreporting,notonlyforchemicaldetectionswhichwereoveranavailableregulatorylimit.Thisinformationisimperativeforindustry-widecollaborationwiththegoalofzerodischarge.

Afulldetailoflaboratoryresultsbyindividualchemicalispresentedinthereportaddendum.

Aspreviouslynoted,theBenchmarkingProjectteamexaminedapproximately150analytesateachof20sites.Thiscollectionofanalytesvariedslightlyfromsitetositebasedontheproductionprocessesandlabcapabilities.

Water Sample Results SummaryThefollowingsectionssummarizethelaboratoryresultsforwatersamplescollectedateachfacility.Samplescollectedincludewaterenteringthefactoryfromawelloramunicipalwatersource(influent)andwaterexitingthewastetreatmentfacility(effluent)whichisthendischarged to either a secondary waste treatment facilityordirectlytoasourcewaterbody,suchasariverorsettlingpond.

The chemical classes that were detected most oftenpersitewereheavymetals,SCCPs,ortho-

The ZDHC Benchmarking Project team examined approximately 150 analytes at each of the 20 sites in Bangladesh,

China, India, Taiwan and Vietnam.

What levels of chemical detection have been reported? Theanalyticalmethodsusedarecapableofdetectingchemicalsinthepartspermillion,partsperbillion,orpartspertrillionranges.Someapproximateexamplesofwhattheselevelsmeanbywayofcomparison:One Part per Billion1secondin32yearstime1footofatriptothemoon½ teaspoon of water in an Olympic sized (50,000gallon)swimmingpool

One Part per Trillion1secondin317centuriesoftime1inchto16millionmiles1dropofwaterin20Olympicsized(50,000gallon)swimmingpools

TotiethiscomparisonintotheBenchmarkingproject,mostMSDSorSDSinformationsheetsonlyrequirereportinghazardouschemicalconstituentsabove1%ofaformulation.1%isequivalentto10,000ppmor10,000,000ppb.Units comparison PPM(partpermillion)=mg/L(milligramsperliter),mg/kg(milligramsperkilogram) PPB(partperbillion)=μg/L(microgramsperliter),μg/kg(microgramsperkilogram) PPT(partspertrillion=ng/L(nanogramsperliter),ng/kg(nanogramsperkilogram)Example:20ppt=20ng/L=0.020μg/L


phthalates,chlorinatedbenzenesandAPEOs.Theleastdetectedclasseswerechlorophenols,organotinsandhalogenatedflameretardants.

Figure4providesasummaryofthenumberofsites that had at least one analyte detected within the11chemicalclasses.Therewasatleastasingledetectionofananalyteineachchemicalclass.

Figure5comparesthenumberofdatapointswithananalytedetectedtothetotalnumber

ofdatapointscollectedwithineachclass(e.g.,asinglesampleanalyzedfor10individualheavymetalsisrepresentedas10datapoints).This comparison was performed to obtain an overviewofeffluentdischarges.

Thehighestpercentageofdetectionsindescendingorderareheavymetals(53%),chlorinatedparaffins(46%),PFCs(20%)andAPEOs(13%).Eachofthesefourclassesisoutlinedfurtherfordetailonspecificchemicalsdetected.

Number of Sites With Detections in Each Class18

7

6

5

1

1

1

12

10

8

3

Heavy Metals

Paraffins C10-C13

Chlorinated Benzenes

APEO

PFC

Chlorinated (halogenated) Solvents

Azo Dyes

Organotin

Chlorophenols

Halogenated Flame Retardants

Ortho-phthalates

Number of Sites0 5 10 15 20

Figure 4NumberofSiteswithatLeastOneAnalyteDetectedperChemicalClass(Effluent)

Figure 5NumberofDataPointswithDetectedAnalytevs.TotalDataPointsCollected,Effluent

0

200

400

600

800

Heavy Metals Short Chain Chlorinated

Paraffins (SCCP)

PFCs APEO Ortho-phthalates

Chlorinated (Halogenated)

Solvents

Chloroben-zenes

Chlorophenois Halogenated Flame

Retardants

Organotin Compounds

Azo Dyes (Amines from

Azo Dyes)

140

13 9 22 30 17 9 3 1 1 3

828

196108

192

328

480

340

165

4628

263

Effluent Sample Results

Number of data points with detected analyteTotal data points collected


Heavy MetalsFigure6presentsthemaximumconcentrationofeachmetaldetectedintheinfluentandeffluent.Zincwasfoundinhighlevelsinthefactoryeffluentinonecase,withthemaximumdischargeconcentrationat447μg/L.

Zinchadthehighestobservedinfluentconcentrationat4,960μg/L – the highest metal analyte concentrationoverall.Infact,sevenofthe17sites(41%)withzincdetectedintheeffluenthadhigherconcentrationsofzincintheincomingwaterthantheeffluent.Copperandleadalsotendedtohavehigherconcentrationsininfluentandlowerconcentrationsineffluent.Thiscouldbecausedbycopperorleadwaterinfrastructure.Overall,thisindicatesthecomplexityofaddressingheavymetals,whicharisefromavarietyofsources,inwetprocessingandsubsequenteffluent.

Figure 6HeavyMetalsinInfluentandEffluent

AnalyteAntimony Arsenic Cadmium Chromium,

hexavalent Cobalt Copper Lead Mercury Nickel Zinc

Influent8 5 N.D. N.D. 3 400 27 2 123 4,960

Day Effluent 234 21 22 N.D. 16 285 16 1 7 447

Night Effluent 135 3 N.D. N.D. 2 22 5 1 13 87

Usage of Heavy MetalsTotalheavymetalsincludeLead,MercuryandCadmium.Paintsareoneofthemostcommonsourcesofheavymetalsaspigmentsandstabilizers.Red,yellow,orange,greenandcolorsmadeofthesebasecolorsarethemostlikelysources.Pigmentsareoftenusedtocolormoldedplastictrims.Somelowtemperaturemeltingplasticsuseheavymetalsasstabilizerstopreventtheplasticfrombreakingdownathighapplicationtemperatures.

LeadLeadisanaturallyoccurringmetalelementthatcanbepresentasapuremetalorasleadcompounds(e.g.,salts).Inapparelandfootwear,leadmaybeassociatedwithplastics,paints,inks,pigments,surfacecoatingsandmetal components.

CadmiumCadmiumisanaturallyoccurringandabundantmetalthatdoesnoteasilycorrode(rust).Itcanbepresentasapuremetalorascadmiumcompounds(e.g.,salts).Cadmiumcompoundsarefoundinorusedas:pigments,astabilizerforPVC

plastic,alloysforplatingofothermetals,paints(e.g.,surfacepaintsonzippersandbuttons).

MercuryMercuryisanaturallyoccurringmetalelementthatcanbepresentasapuremetalorasMercurycompounds(e.g.,salts).Itcanexistasmetallicmercury(liquid),agas(whenheated),orassolids(inorganicandorganiccompounds).Mercurycompoundscanbepresentinpesticidesandcanalsobeusedinpaints.

Maximum Metal Concentration (μg/L)

N.D. (non detect)

2,000

4,000

6,000

8,000

10,000


Short Chain Chlorinated ParaffinsFigure7representsthemaximumconcentrationofSCCPsdetectedininfluentandeffluent.Whilethehighestconcentrationappearedintheinfluent,thiswasananomaly.Onlytwoofeightsiteshadhigherinfluentconcentrations.

Figure 7ChlorinatedParaffinsinInfluentandEffluent

AnalyteShort Chain Chlorinated Paraffins

(SCCP) with C10-C13

Influent

72.70

Day Effluent

35.10

Night Effluent 11.20

Usage of Short Chain Chlorinated ParaffinsSCCPs are chlorinated hydrocarbons with a straightcarbonchain.Theycanbeusedas:flameretardants,leathergreasingagentsandforfatliquoringofleather.

PFCsFigure8presentsthemaximumconcentrationofPFOAandPFOSdetectedininfluentandeffluent,whichwerelowacrossthesiteswithPFCprocessing.Atonlyonesite,PFOAwasdetectedin the incoming water.

Figure 8PFOS/PFOAinInfluentandEffluent

AnalytePerfluoroocatanoic Acid

(PFOA)Perfluorooctane Sulfonate

(PFOS)

Influent1.48 0.01

Day Effluent 1.60 0.03

Night Effluent 0.30 N.D.

Usage of PFCsFluorinatedcompoundsinvestigatedinthisstudywereperfluorooctanoicacid(PFOA)andperfluorooctanesulfonicacid(PFOS)andarecommonlyreferredtoasPFCs.Thesefluorinatedsurfactantsareusedindurablewaterrepellentapplicationtoachieveahighlevelofwater,oilandstainrepellency.Thesetwochemicals,PFOAandPFOS,arebeingphasedoutofuseduetotoxicity,bio-accumulativepropertiesandlongevityintheenvironment.ThePFCsareonlyinuseatasmallnumberoffacilitiesinthisstudywheredurablewaterrepellentsareapplied.Alternativesthatofferthesamelevelofperformancearenotreadilyavailableatthistime.SeetheZDHCreportonwaterrepellencytreatments here: http://www.roadmaptozero.com/df.php?file=pdf/DWR_Report.pdf

Maximum SCCP Concentration (μg/L)

11.20

40.00

60.00

80.00

100.00

Maximum PFC Concentration (μg/L)

N.D. (non detect) 6.00

2.00 8.00

4.00 10.00


APEOsFigure9representsthemaximumconcentrationofAPEOsininfluentandeffluent.Duetovariationsintestingprotocolsindifferentregions,theAPEOresultswerereporteddifferentlybyeachlaboratory2. Theresultsarepresentedasreported,toavoidcombiningtheresultsandmissinganyinformation.WhileafewAPEOanalytesappearedintheinfluent,noneexceededtheeffluentconcentration,indicatingtheuseofAPEOsinproductionprocesses.

Figure 9APEOsinInfluentandEffluent

Analyte

Nony

lphen

ol

Nony

lphen

ol die

thoxy

lates

, NP

2EO

Nony

lphen

ol mo

noeth

oxyla

tes,

NP1E

O

Nony

lphen

ol eth

oxyla

tes

(NPE

OS)

Nony

lphen

ol eth

oxyla

tes,

n=4 t

o n=1

5

Octyl

phen

ol

Octyl

phen

ol die

thoxy

lates

, OP

2EO

Octyl

phen

ol mo

noeth

oxyla

tes,

OP1E

O

Octyl

phen

ol eth

oxyla

tes

(OPE

Os)

Octyl

phen

ol eth

oxyla

tes,

n=4 t

o n=1

5

Total

non-i

conic

surfa

ctants

(N

onylp

heno

l and

octyl

phen

ol eth

oxyla

tes, n

-4 to

n-15

Influent0.20 0.18 0.05 N.D. N.D. N.D. N.D. N.D. N.D. N.D. N.D.

Day Effluent

3.78 0.20 0.11 6.33 0.50 0.45 0.16 N.D. N.D. N.D. 0.50

Night Effluent 0.90 0.26 0.25 0.30 0.42 0.22 N.D. N.D. 0.30

Maximum APEO Concentration (μg/L)

N.D. (non detect) 2.00 4.00 6.00 8.00 10.00

Usage of APEOsAPEOsarenon-ionicsurfactantsincludingNonylphenolEthoxylates(NPEOs)andOctylphenolEthoxylates(OPEO).NPEOsandOPEOscandegradeintononylphenolandoctylphenol,respectively.APEOscanbeusedasorfoundin:detergents,scouringagents,wettingagents,softeners,emulsifier/dispersingagentsfordyesandprints,impregnatingagents,degreasingagentsforleather,leatherfinishing,de-gummingforsilkproduction,dyesandpigmentpreparations,polyesterpaddinganddown/featherfillings.APEOsareincreasinglyprohibitedandalternativesfortheiruseinproductiondoes exist in many cases.

2 APEOscanbeassessedinavarietyofways.AportionofthelabsreportedAPEOsgroupedtogetherastotalnonyphenolethoxylatesandtotaloctylphenolethoxylates.TheremaininglabsreportedAPEOsseparatedintorangesbasedonnumberofethoxylateunits,andalsoreportedtotalnon-ionicsurfactants.


Regulatory Limits for Effluent Allofthelocationsthatweresampledwereconfirmedtobeincompliancewithlocaldischargeregulations,whereapplicableandingoodstandingwithlocalauthoritiesatthetimeofthevisit.However,publisheddischargelimitsexistforonlyasmallsubsetofthechemicalsinthisinvestigation.Whereotherstringentwaterqualitylimitswereavailable,theteamcomparedeffluentdetectionstothese limits.

Consultantsreviewedtheresultsandcomparedresultstopublishedwaterqualitylimitsforthetextileindustry.Publishedlimitspertainingtofactoryeffluentwereonlyfoundforpentachlorophenol,generalchemistryandheavymetals.Thesourcesoftheeffluentlimitswere:

bluesign®SurfaceWaterDischargeLimits3

AmericanApparelandFootwearAssociationGlobalTextileEffluentGuidelines4

TaiwanEffluentWaterStandards5

ChinaEffluentWaterStandardsforDyeingandFinishingintheTextileIndustry6

Figure10showsacomparisonbetweenpublishedeffluentlimitsanddetectedanalytesatthefactories.Sincethefocusofthestudywasthe11chemicalclasses,noteverylocationwassampledforgeneralwaterqualityparameters,withatotalof16samplescollectedfromeightsites.

Figure 10ComparisonofGeneralWaterQualityResultstoPublishedLimits

General Water Quality Results vs. Published LimitsSulfide

Total Phenolics (4-AAP spectrophotometric)

Color

BOD (5-day)

pH

Ca, Mg hardness (for metals bioavailability)

TDS

COD

TSS

Number of Detections Exceeding Published Limits-16 Samples from 8 Sites

0

0

0 5 10 15 20

0

9

0

0

0

7

7

3 bluesign®CriteriaforTextileManufacturers;http://www.bluesign.com/index.php?id=1514 https://www.wewear.org/assets/1/7/EffluentGuidelines.pdf;Accessed2/25/20135 http://law.epa.gov.tw/en/laws/480770486.html6 GB4287-2012,Dischargestandardofwaterpollutantsfordyeingandfinishingoftextileindustry

Whatpublisheddischargelimitsdidwefindforeffluent?• Informationfrombluesign®Surface

Water Discharge Limits2

• American Apparel and Footwear AssociationGlobalTextileEffluentGuidelines3

• TaiwanEffluentWaterStandards4

• ChinaTextileEffluentWaterStandards5


Totalsuspendedsolids(TSS),chemicaloxygendemand(COD)andbiologicaloxygendemand(BOD)showeddetectionsoveravailableeffluentlimits.Thesearegeneraleffluentmonitoringparameters,notspecifictoanyonechemical.

Figure 11ComparisonofHeavyMetalsandPentachlorophenolResultstoPublishedLimits

2

1

0

0

1

0

Heavy Metals and Phentachlorophenol Results vs. Published Limits

1

0

2

Pentachlorophenol

Chromium, hexavalent, Cr(VI)

Cadmium, Cd

Mercury, Hg

Cobalt, Co

Arsenic, As

Lead, Pb

Nickel, Ni

Copper, Cu

Zinc, Zn

Number of Detections Exceeding Published Limits - 25 Samples From 20 Sites

Antimony, Sb

0 5 10 15 20 25

0

0

Basedontheavailableinformation,averysmallnumberofheavymetalsweredetectedoveranyavailableeffluentlimits.

Sludge Sample ResultsEighteenlocationsweresampledforsludgeduringdaytimesamplingevents.Sludgesamplestypicallyrepresentalongertimeframeofplantoperationthanwatersamplesand,therefore,donotnecessitatesamplingduringdifferentshifts.Thesludgesamplesmaybemoreconcentratedthaneffluentsamples,astheconcentrationofchemicalsinthesludgeisexpectedasanaturaloutcomeofwastewater treatment.

Onceachemicalissegregatedintothesludgematrix,itisreducedoreliminatedfromtheeffluentstream.Thechemicalsthatconcentrateinsludgearegenerallylowerinsolubilityorhavebecomechemicallyattachedtosolidsinupstreamprocesses.Figure12indicatesthenumberofsiteswithatleastoneanalytedetectedperchemicalclass.Forexample,atleastoneheavymetalwasdetectedateachof18sites.Thisinformationisusefulbecauseitprovidesameanstoassesstheextentofthedischarge for each class of chemicals.


Figure 12NumberofSiteswithatLeastOneAnalyteDetectedperChemicalClass(Sludge)

Number of Sites With Detections in Each Class18

5

4

2

0

0

0

0 5 10 15 20

11

11

9

2

Total Number of Sites Where Each Class Was Detected

Heavy Metals

Ortho-phthalates

APEO

PFCs

Chlorobenzenes

Azo Dyes (Amines from Azo Dyes)

Chlorophenols

Chlorinated (Halogenated) Solvents

Organotin Compounds


Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCP)

Figure13comparesthenumberofdatapointswithananalytedetectedtothetotalnumberofdatapointscollectedwithineachclass(e.g.,asinglesampleanalyzedfor10individualheavymetalsisrepresentedas10datapoints).Thiscomparisonwasperformedtoobtainanoverviewofsludgedischarges.

Figure 13NumberofDataPointswithDetectedAnalytevs.TotalDataPointsCollected,Sludge

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

Heavy Metals Short Chain Chlorinated

Paraffins (SCCP)

PFCs APEO Ortho-phthalates

Chloroben-zenes

Chlorophenols Azo Dyes (Amines from

Azo Dyes)

Chlorinated (Halogenated)

Solvents

Halogenated Flame

Retardants

Organotin Compounds

110

11 7 15 294 2 3 0 0 0

12690

141

514

112

204230

104

3618

180

Number of data points with detected analyteTotal data points collected

Sludge Sample Results


Aswiththeeffluentsamples,thebenchmarkingteamnotedthepresenceofthesamefourclassesofchemicals-heavymetals,SCCPs,PFCsandAPEOs-asthemostprevalentlydetectedinsludge.

TheBenchmarkingProjectteamexpectedtofindchemicalsinthesludge,asitisanindicationthatthetreatmentsystemiseffectivelysegregatingthosechemicalsfromtheeffluentstreambeforethewaterisdischarged.Whenchemicalsthathavebeenrestrictedforsometimearefoundinsludge,however,thereareissuesbeyondproperwastetreatmentoperation,suchaschemicalsmanagement,thatmayneed to be addressed.

ConclusionsTheBenchmarkingProjectresultsprovideageneralunderstandingofcurrentpracticesandthestateofdischargeatsitesconductingkeywetprocesses.Thestudydoesnotrepresenttheentiresupplychainandshouldbeconsideredasnapshotintimeofcurrentpractices.However,itallowsZDHCmemberstomakemoreeducateddecisionsandtoprioritisefutureeffortsasweworktoachievetheimportantgoalofzerodischargeofhazardouschemicals.

Key Chemical Classes Found in DischargesThekeychemicalclassesfoundintheobservedeffluentandsludgeareheavymetals,SCCPs,PFCs,APEOsandortho-phthalates.ManybrandshavebeentargetingsubstancesinthesechemicalclassesthroughRSLswhichrestrictspecificchemicalsubstancesinproducts.However,thefrequencyofdetectionintheeffluentindicatesthesesubstancesarestillpresentinformulationsandprocessesatthesupplierlocations.

Inaddition,therewerenotedinstancesofrestrictedsubstancesinuseontheproductionflooratafewsites.Thisobservationandthedischargedataindicatedthatsuppliershaveintentionalandunintentionaluseofthesechemicalsubstances,especiallyonthefactoryfloor,wherechemicalsmaybeusedbutnotasanintentionaladditiontoproducts.

Chemical Management and Information Improvement OpportunityThereareopportunitiestocollaboratewithsuppliersregardingchemicalsmanagementandinventories/informationonchemicalsusedinproductionprocesses.TherearethreekeyfocusareasforfutureZDHCsupport:

Chemicals management implementation: Mostfactorieshadwritten,statedchemicalmanagementsystemguidelines.However,inpractice,theimplementationofthepolicywaslessreliableandvariedfromsuppliertosupplier.

Chemical information:Inmostcases,thechemicalinformationprovidedtofactoriesbychemicalsupplierslacksappropriatedetailstomakeinformeddecisionsregardingchemicalcomponents.Itwassometimesunclearwhetherarestrictedsubstanceispresentinaformulationattraceamountsorifitisaminoringredientandnotlistedaspartoftheformulationduetointellectualpropertyconcerns.

Inventories:Manysuppliersinthisstudykeptgoodinventoryrecords,butthereisroomforimprovementinthequalityofrecordsandtransparency.


Infrastructure ConsiderationsLaboratoriesintheregionwereabletohandletheBenchmarkingStudysamples,buttheprojectexperiencedalearningcurveinthisarea.Shippingsamplesacrossborderstolaboratoryfacilitiesthatcouldprocessthesampleswasalsoachallengeandthetimeframefordeliveryoflaboratorydatawaslongerthananticipatedbythelabsorprojectteam.Complexsamplingproceduresandanalyticaltestingbeyondstandardoperatingproceduresalreadyinuseatthelaboratoriesalsoproveddifficult.Basedontheseexperiences,infrastructureandlaboratorycapabilitiesareimportanttoconsiderinfutureactivitiesorlargescaletesting.

TrainingManystaffatsupplierlocationsnotedthattheydosendpersonneltotrainingbutthedepthandbreadthoftrainingisunclear.Inaddition,staffhandlingofchemicalsontheproductionfloorwassometimesnotthepersonnelthatattendedtraining.


Next StepsBasedonthefindingsfromthisstudy,theBenchmarkingProjectteamhasdeterminedkeyactionsthegroupwillundertaketoeffectbetterenvironmentalandhumanhealthoutcomesatoursupplierlocations.Table2summarizesthenextstepsandactionitems.

Table 2NextStepsandActionItems

Chemical Classes Majo

rity o

f ch

emica

ls on

RSL

s

Develop/enforce Tools and Policies to Affect Phase Out of RSL Chemicals Chemicals Management Improvement

Communi-cations on Policiesa

Resources to Develop

Positive Lists

Guidebooks to Help Eliminate

Chemicals

Chem. Best Practices

Pilot Project

Chem. Mgmt

Training

Disclosure & Info

ExchangeAlkylphenol Ethoxylates/Alkylphenols (APEOs/APEs)

Chemicals management improvement efforts will affect all chemical classes

covered by the Benchmarking Study as well as all other chemicals in use.


Chlorinated (Halogenated) Solvents

Chlorinated benzenes

Chlorophenols

Heavy Metals

Organotin Compounds (e.g., TBT)

Perfluorinated Chemicals

Ortho-phthalates

Short-Chained Chlorinated Paraffins

Azo dyes that may release carcinogenic amines as defined in Annex XVII of REACH

a DevelopmentofamanufacturingRSLisunderwayaspartoftheZDHCProgramme

Action Items for Key Chemical Classes Found in Discharges1.Prioritise Chemicals Classes. Wheretheteamobserveddetectionsinsuppliereffluent,wewill

takeactiontoaddressthesesubstancesandwillprioritisethechemicalclassesthathadthemostfrequentdetections.Inparticular,theteamwillprioritisethechemicalsclassesthatexhibitpersistent,bioaccumulativeand/ortoxiccharacteristics:SCCPs,ortho-phthalates,APEOsandPFOA/PFOS.Wewillalsolookatheavymetalsandthecomplexityassociatedwiththeirreduction,specificallythoseduetonaturalwaterhardnessandincomingwatercontamination.


Theteamwillcontinuetoaddressotherchemicalclassesthatwerenotdetectedinsignificantlevelsinthisstudy.Resultsindicatetherehasbeenimprovedeliminationofsubstancessuchasazo-dyes,organotinsandchlorobenzenesthattheindustryhasbeenaddressingformanyyears.

Mostoftheanalytesinthisstudyhavebeentargetedhistoricallyforrestrictioninthesupplychainandwillbeaddressedthroughspecificactionplans.ThisworkispartofdedicatedworkstreamsoutlinedintheJointRoadmap,version2.

2. Phase Out/Eliminate RSL Chemicals from Use. Whendetectedchemicalsarealreadyconstituentsonarestrictedsubstanceslist,wewilldeveloptools,informationandpoliciesthatwillhelppromotefullelimination—notjusteliminationinproductbutalsoinproductionprocessesifapplicable.

Theteamwillensurethatappropriatetoolsandcommunicationsarecompletedforeachtargetedanalyte.Toolsandpolicieswewillpursueinclude,butarenotlimitedto:

Communicationstorelevantsuppliersreinforcingourpolicytoavoidspecificsubstances

Listsofresourcesthatwillhelpsuppliersidentify“positive”formulations

Guidebooksthathelpdiagnosewheretofindsubstancesthatareubiquitousandhardtoeliminate(suchasAPEOs)

Phaseoutactivitieswilllikelybesimilaracrossdifferentchemicalclasses.Wewillensureappropriatetoolsandcommunicationsarecompletedforthetargetedanalytes.

Forsomenewchemicalsbeingconsideredforaction,wemayinvestinresearchtoidentifyviablealternativesandadditionalinformationonbothuseandsubstitutionpotentialinthesupplychain.Forexample,whileallZDHCbrandshavecommittedtophaseoutoflong-chainperfluorinatedchemicals,weareresearchingalternativesforwater,stainandoilrepellencyperformancerequirements.Researchlikethisisintendedtoleadtoqualityproductperformanceandlowerenvironmentalimpact.

Currentwaterqualitystandardsfocusongeneralwaterqualityparametersandheavymetals.Acommondischargestandardwithamorecomprehensivesetofwaterqualityparameterswouldhelpcreatecommonexpectationofwhat“good”lookslikeacrossthesupplychain.Thisapproachwarrantsfurtherexploration.7

Chemical Management and Information Improvement OpportunityTopromotebetterchemicalsmanagement,thereareanumberofactionstheZDHCmemberswillundertaketoenablehighperformanceinthisarea.Threeareaswillbetargeted:abestpracticespilotstudy,chemicalsmanagementtraininganddisclosure/informationexchange.

Best Practices Pilot Project. Bestpracticesforchemicalsmanagement,treatmentandwaterstewardshiphavebeenestablished.However,thereisnoclearvaluepropositionandprovenoutcomesfromimplementingthesebestpractices.Theteamwillworkwithkeyexpertsandstakeholderstodevelopachemicalsmanagementbestpracticepilotproject.

Bestpracticeswillbeoutlinedandthepilotprojectsetuptomonitorthebusinesscaseaswellaseffluentperformance.

7 Whilecompleteeliminationispossibleformanysubstances,limitsarehelpfulforothersduetotheirubiquityandnaturaloccurrence.


Develop and Implement Chemicals Management Training. The ZDHC team is working with industrypartnerstodevelopchemicalsmanagementtrainingforsuppliersandeventuallyforothersupplychainpartnersandbrands.TheteamwillofferthefirsttrainingsessionsintheFall2013.ThistrainingwillprovideaconsistentplatformforZDHCsupplychainpartners,tailoredtoallwhohavearoleinhandlingchemicals,notjustmanagersorthoseoverseeingactivities.Providingtheseresourcesthroughacommonindustryplatformshouldreduceduplicationofeffort,promotecommoneffortandthereduceburdenonsupplychainpartners.

Disclosure and Information Exchange.InformationexchangeisanotherareaoffocusfortheZDHCteam.Otherindustriesandcoalitionshaveexaminedsimilarissues(forexample,theelectronicsindustry).ZDHCwillpartnerwithstakeholderstolearnaboutexistingsystemsandsolutionsandapplythosetothetextileindustry.Thisworkisstilldevelopingandrequiresextensivepartnershipwiththechemicalindustry,apparelandfootwearindustryandpolicygroups.

Committedtotransparency,wewillcontinuetoshareinformationandresultsasweimplementtheseprojectsandtasks.Wewillprovidedeliverablesandcommunicationsonourwebsite(www.roadmaptozero.com)andthroughwebinarswithstakeholders.Welookforwardtocontinuallylearningmoreabouthowtoimproveenvironmentalperformanceacrossoursupplychainandencourageyoutoparticipateandcontributetothisprogrammetoeliminatehazardouschemicaldischargesthroughoutoursupplychain.

July 2013 - CBCSD · 2013-07-16 · the suppliers’ facility. The Joint Roadmap referred to this...

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