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    Lost in the Supermarket: TheCorporate-Organic Foodscape and the

    Struggle for Food Democracy

    Josee JohnstonDepartment of Sociology, University of Toronto, Toronto, ON, Canada;

    [email protected]

    Andrew BiroDepartment of Political Science, Acadia University, Wolfville, NS, Canada;

    [email protected]

    Norah MacKendrickDepartment Sociology, University of Toronto, Toronto, ON, Canada;

    [email protected]

    Abstract: The corporatization of organics has been critiqued for the concentration of

    ownership, as well as the ecological consequences of the long distances commodities travel

    between field and table. These critiques suggest a competing vision of food democracy which

    strives to organize the production and consumption of food at a proximate geographic scale

    while increasing opportunities for democratically managed cooperation between producers

    and consumers. This paper examines how the corporate-organic foodscape has interacted and

    evolved alongside competing counter movements of food democracy. Using discourse and

    content analysis, we examine how corporate organics incorporate messages of locally

    scaled food production, humble origins, and a commitment to family farms and employees,

    and explore some of the complexity of the corporate-organic foodscape. This paper contributes

    to the understanding of commodity fetishism in the corporate-organic foodscape, and speaksmore generally to the need for sophisticated understandings of the complex relationship between

    social movement innovation and market adaptation.

    Keywords: organics, food democracy, commodity fetishism, corporate foodscape, place

    Introduction

    We strongly believe that buying organic foods is a form ofenvironmental activism. When you choose organic products, you are

    consuming products that not only are good for you, but also are

    good for the biosystem of todayand thats good for tomorrow. In

    many ways, you are eating and drinking for the futureyours and the

    planets (The Organic Cow website, http://www.theorganiccow.com/)

    Antipode Vol. 41 No. 3 2009 ISSN 0066-4812, pp 509532

    doi: 10.1111/j.1467-8330.2009.00685.xC 2009 The Authors

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    For the past half-century, the primary manifestation of an alternative to

    industrialized agriculture in North America has been the organic food

    movement. The original movement emphasized the agrarian ideals of

    small-scale food production, community engagement, and ecological

    responsibility. While at least a rhetorical commitment to those goals

    is maintained, todays organic food sector has moved considerably

    beyond small-scale farm to table distribution to a corporate model of

    large factory farms supplying distant supermarkets (Guthman 2004a), a

    phenomenon we refer to as corporate organics. Organics is one of

    the fastest growing sectors in agriculture in both the United States

    and Canada (Canadian Organic Growers 2006; ERS-USDA 2005),

    with annual growth rates in both countries around 20% (Canadian

    Organic Growers 2006; Oberholtzer et al 2005:4). This production and

    distribution structure has raised questions about the ecological and socialimpacts of organic food production, particularly in terms of the fossil

    fuel required to transport organic products within global commodity

    chains (Fromartz 2006; Halweil 2002; Pollan 2006b). Consequently,

    the organics industry is viewed skeptically by many alternative food

    system activists, particularly since many of the original small organic

    companies have been purchased by the worlds biggest food processors

    (Howard 2005, 2007).

    The corporatization of organics can be contrasted with a competing

    vision of food democracy articulated by activists in alternativeagricultural initiatives. While food democracy represents a decentralized

    terrain, these projects are commonly animated by an imperative to

    organize the food system at a scale where democratic needs are

    met, sensitivity to resource depletion is heightened, and privileged

    core regions do not live off the carrying capacity of the periphery

    (Halweil 2005; Hassanein 2003; Shiva 2003). Food democracy projects

    include farmers markets, community supported agriculture (CSA),

    and food box schemes, all of which are represented as alternativesto a corporate supermarket system that sells food grown, processed,

    and controlled thousands of miles away. The increasing popularity

    of food democracy options represents part of collective efforts to

    oppose the corporatization of agriculture and the commons more

    generally (Belliveau 2005; Goldman 1998; Hinrichs 2003; Johnston

    2003). Food democracy supporters advocate eating locally as a way

    for communities to obtain greater control over the food system

    and engage in more meaningful interactions with food producers

    (Brecher et al 2000; Lappe and Lappe 2002; Thompson andCoskuner-Balli 2007). Calls for more local control and meaningful

    interactions between farmers and consumers have diffused into the

    public consciousness in North America and Europewith increasing

    media coverage of the local food movement (eg The Economist

    2006), the development of local food certification programs, and eatC 2009 The Authors

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    The Corporate-organic Foodscape 511

    local marketing schemes (Dupuis and Goodman 2005:362; Friedmann

    2007).

    While the localization of food presents a promising alternative to

    an increasingly globalized and corporatized organic sector, a local

    versus global food binary is not as simple as it might initially appear

    (Allen 2004:179; Hinrichs 2003:34; Watts et al 2005:31). Scholars have

    identified significant problems with unreflexive localism, and caution

    against equating localized scalar relations with democratically organized

    social relations (see Belliveau 2005; Born and Purcell 2006:199;

    DuPuis and Goodman 2005; Hinrichs 2003). In this paper, we continue

    scholarly work critiquing the fetishization of specific features of the food

    system, like localism, and also explore the complexity of the corporate-

    organic foodscape while drawing lessons for food democracy projects.

    As we explore below, developing a robust food democracy requiresconsideration of both the limitations and possibilities of local eating.

    The corporatization of organics holds important lessons that clarify the

    importance of democratizing the underlying socio-economic relations

    of the food system. A central concern is the problem of commodity

    fetishism or, put differently, a lack of transparency in the food system

    that obscures how relations of production are socially produced rather

    than naturally given. It is not just that corporate-organic food is

    grown industrially or shipped long distances, but that food production,

    distribution, and consumption are not democratically controlled andorganized, even though presented as such. Corporate-organic usage of

    food democracy themes, like eating locally and developing meaningful

    relationships with producers, demonstrates the potency of these desires;

    in this paper we ask how the articulation of these desires takes on an

    individualized, commodified form, and how this relates to collective-

    oriented food democracy projects challenging centralized, privately

    owned relations of production.

    Analytically, our contribution is to emphasize that developing arobust food democracy requires a greater appreciation of the dynamic

    relationship between corporate adaptation and social movement

    innovation. Scholars have long identified how social movement themes

    can be transformed into marketing opportunities (Frank 1998; Jameson

    1991:49), and while the co-optation of messages from the organic

    movement has received some attention (Thompson and Coskuner-

    Balli 2007) this process requires further investigation. Rather than a

    simple story of co-optation, we advocate a dialectical approach that

    recognizes a dynamic relationship between market actors and socialmovements (Schor 2007) and sees the corporate-organic foodscape as

    a hybrid entity drawing from movement themes while using market

    mechanisms. This does not mean abandoning a critical perspective

    towards corporate capitalism, but analytically it necessitates skepticism

    towards simplistic binaries (good/evil, local/global, nature/culture) thatC 2009 The Authors

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    512 Antipode

    obscure understanding of real-world hybridity (see Latour 1993). To

    more closely examine the process of marketmovement interaction, we

    develop the notion of the foodscape as a conceptual lens that focuses

    our investigation into food democracy and corporate organics.

    Empirically, our objective is to document how food democracy

    themes are being incorporated by corporate-organic marketing

    particularly in an individualized, commodified formand relate this

    process to collective-oriented food democracy projects challenging

    centralized, privately owned relations of production. To do so, we

    look at the top 25 global food processors that have acquired some

    of the smaller organic brands in North America to see how these

    companies use product websites to incorporate themes from food

    democracy projects, particularly themes of food being rooted in a

    local place, with connections to real producers. We find that themarketing of corporate organics consistently draws on food democracy

    images and narratives, connecting products to a particular locale and

    family farms, and highlighting a personal history behind the brand

    while obscuring spatially dispersed commodity chains and centralized

    ownership structures.

    The paper proceeds as follows. In the next section we outline the

    material and ideological elements of the corporate-organic foodscape,

    and chart key precepts of a vision of food democracy. We then map

    the contemporary corporate-organic foodscape using a discourse andcontent analysis of corporate-organic food websites. In the following

    section we analytically unpack our findings, arguing that the corporate-

    organic foodscape operates as a hybrid entity that cultivates a fetishized

    image of ecological embeddedness in locally scaled places, while

    obscuring long-distance commodity chains, globalized trade, and

    centralized corporate control over the food system. We conclude the

    paper by examining challenges and opportunities facing food democracy

    movements, particularly in light of the political-economic prominenceand ideational maneuverability of corporate organics.

    The Corporate-organic Foodscape and the Struggle

    for Food DemocracyThe term foodscape has been used generally to describe the spatial

    distribution of food across urban spaces and institutional settings

    (Winson 2004; Yasmeen 1996). Drawing from geographic and

    sociological literature on the landscape (eg Mitchell 2001; Zukin 1991),we employ the term foodscape to describe a social construction that

    captures and constitutes cultural ideals of how food relates to specific

    places, people and food systems. As Cook and Crang emphasize, foods

    do not simply come from places . . . but also make places as symbolic

    constructs, being deployed in the constructions of various imaginativeC 2009 The Authors

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    The Corporate-organic Foodscape 513

    geographies (1996:140). Just as a landscape painting has a mediated,

    indirect relationship to physical ontology or place, a foodscape may

    variously capture or obscure the ecological sites and social relations

    of food production, consumption, and distribution. Foodscapes involve

    elements of materiality and ideology and are contested spaces where

    actors struggle to define the terrain of political action, including

    the extent of market involvement and private ownership of food. In

    the next section we describe how the corporate-organic foodscape is

    both a material and political-economic phenomenon, and contrast this

    foodscape with the activities and ideals of food democracy movements.

    The Corporate-organic Foodscape

    As demand increased for organic food in North America, organicsbecame part of the mainstream institutionalized food system, largely

    owing to the efforts of the United States Department of Agriculture

    (USDA), which developed uniform national standards for organic

    crop production in 1990, and further detailed those standards in 2002

    (Guthman 2004b; Ingram and Ingram 2005). The path of regulation

    and certification has been consistently controversial, and organic

    standardization has been a political, rather than merely a technical issue

    (see DeLind 2000; Ingram and Ingram 2005). The result of this political

    struggle was to transform organic from a philosophy governingmany aspects of the food production and distribution process, to a

    regulatory label that focused onor some would say, fetishizedthe

    regulation of agricultural inputs. Organic certification institutionalized

    what was originally intended, for many participants, to be an anti-

    institutional movement (Goodman and Goodman 2001). Consequently,

    other than synthetic inputs, the production conditions for many organic

    products now mirror those of their conventional counterparts; they often

    originate on large-scale industrial farms and are sold from supermarketshelves. Organic produce is commonly distributed with trans-continental

    and even global commodity chains (Raynolds 2004)1 from farms in

    California, and increasingly from China (Sanders 2006), to disparate

    market niches ranging from Whole Foods Market to WalMartall in

    direct contrast to the original aspirations of the organics movement.

    The institutionalization of organic agriculture through federal

    certification standards, along with a price premium and significant

    consumer interest in organics, has helped increase the presence of

    major corporate players in the organics industry (Fromartz 2006;Goodman and Goodman 2001:101). Most of the worlds largest food

    processing corporations are now involved in some dimension of organic

    food, acquiring many of the original organic food companies, as well

    as developing their own organic brands (RAFI, 2003:19). With a

    growing number of suppliers, a costly certification process has emergedC 2009 The Authors

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    514 Antipode

    and the price premium for organics has declined, thereby pushing

    (and keeping) small suppliers out of the market (Guthman 2004a;

    Pollan 2006b). Importantly, while corporate buyouts and economic

    concentration represent a significant shift in the ownership structure

    of this sector, this shift is frequently imperceptible at the level of the

    foodscape, as original product names and brands are retained by new

    corporate owners.

    Alternative Agriculture and the Struggle for Food DemocracyFor many in the food democracy movement, this corporatization process

    represents a corruption or co-optation of organic ideals. At the core of

    food democracy lies the idea that people can and should be actively

    participating in shaping the food system, rather than remaining passivespectators . . . [it] is about citizens having the power to determine

    agro-food policies and practices locally, regionally, nationally and

    globally (Hassanein 2003:79; see also Lang 1999). Organics represents

    one of the earliest manifestations of a vision of food democracy.

    While there were important exceptions,2 many of the original organic

    farming ventures were part of a social movement seeking to take

    control of food production away from agro-food corporations, and

    put it into the hands of smaller operators, communities, coops and

    urban neighborhoods (Belasco 1989; Buck et al 1997; Goodman 1999).Reflecting the movements social ideals, organic food was distributed

    primarily through small-market or non-profit mechanisms, fostering

    direct connections between producers and consumers (Raynolds 2004).

    With the corporatization of organics, proponents of food democracy

    have been forced to rethink strategies for resisting the unsustainabilities

    and inequities associated with industrial food production and distribu-

    tion, and transforming the food system. This involves politicizing the

    food system: pushing the notion that access to safe and nutritious foodis a basic righta notion that fundamentally contradicts the corporate

    vision where food is principally viewed as a commodity produced

    for sale (Hassanein 2003; Riches 1999)and using the concept of

    food democracy to create new political spaces where agricultural

    producers and consumers can act as citizens. On a pragmatic level, food

    democracy is about creating alternative mechanisms for individuals and

    communities to produce and procure food sustainably. Food democracy

    encourages the expansion of organic agricultural production techniques,

    but with greater attention to fair wages and living conditions for laborersand farmers (Halweil 2002; Shiva 2000). It resists cooperation with

    transnational food producers and major supermarkets, and encourages

    distribution mechanisms that foster meaningful interactions between

    producers and consumers, such as through farmers markets, food boxes,

    and CSAs (Halweil 2005). These mechanisms are thought to enable foodC 2009 The Authors

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    The Corporate-organic Foodscape 515

    security and sovereignty by placing control over food production and

    distribution in the hands of citizens rather than corporations (Riches

    1999; Shiva 2000, 2003).

    Localization is an important element in the vision of food democracy

    (Halweil 2002, 2005).3 As Ostrom observes, local food is a unifying

    theme among social movements challenging the modern agri-food

    system, coming to signify all that is believed to be the antithesis

    of a globally organized system where food travels great distances, is

    controlled by behemoth, transnational corporations, and is wrought

    with environmental, social, and nutritional hazards (2006:66; see

    also Dupuis and Goodman 2005:359). Advocates for food system

    localization make numerous explicit and implicit normative claims

    that associate localism with democratic interpersonal relations, coop-

    eration, decentralization, environmental and community sustainability,embeddedness in local systems, family farms, and resistance to global

    corporate capitalism (Dupuis and Goodman 2005; Hinrichs 2003).

    These themes are compatible with food democracy, but are nevertheless

    susceptible to romanticized and unreflexive deployment. Scholars have

    called for a de-reification of the local, arguing that eat-local activists

    must carefully consider the meaning and limits of the local scale

    (Belliveau 2005; Dupuis and Goodman 2005; Hinrichs 2003; Johnston

    and Baker 2005), and guard against defensive localization (Hinrichs

    2003:37). Localization defined as spatial proximity to the consumer maynot adequately capture energy use in food transport (Wallgren 2006),

    nor necessitate equitable labor practices or meaningful interactions

    between consumers and producers (Belliveau 2005). Spatial relations

    of proximity also cannot be simply equated with social relationships of

    democratic accountability and substantive equality, which we argue are

    of primary importance to a meaningful vision of food democracy.

    Mapping the Corporate-organic FoodscapeHaving discussed both the emergence of the corporate-organic

    foodscape, as well as key facets of food democracy, we can now begin

    to map the corporate-organic foodscape in greater detail. This section

    describes a marketing aesthetic of locally scaled life that draws

    on place-based ideals, while employing romanticized conceptions of

    specific places, face-to-face community, and rural life. Using strategic

    narratives emphasizing locality, place, and the connection between

    brands and real producers this locally flavored marketing strategyis grafted onto production and distribution practices that, at least in part,

    can be identified as part of globalized corporate agribusiness.

    To map the corporate-organic foodscape, we conducted a discourse

    and content analysis of the websites of organic brands (eg Lightlife,

    The Organic Cow, Back to Nature) that have been acquired by NorthC 2009 The Authors

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    516 Antipode

    Americas top food processors (eg Heinz, ConAgra, Kraft Foods). We

    focused on acquisitions rather than the introduction of new brands

    because of our interest in corporate organics use of food democracy

    messages, a process that is especially visible after the transition of brand

    ownership from a small company to a major transnational corporation.

    We selected websites for analysis as they capture highly detailed and

    comprehensive messages about the company, its products, and brand

    image. Websites are identified in the marketing literature as virtual

    storefronts that communicate corporate, product, and brand images, as

    well as information on the brand that cannot be communicated through

    product packaging and advertising (Argyriou et al Melewar 2006; Chen

    2001; Singh and Dalal 1999). In short, websites are a part of integrated

    marketing platforms that construct a coherent and consistent narrative

    for corporate brands (Rowley 2004), that is highly amenable to empiricalstudy. While not all consumers access websites to learn about products,

    websites provide a way to identify and interpret elements of the discourse

    associated with corporate-organic brandsthe narratives, ideas, and

    images that the purveyors of corporate organics seek to associate with

    their products.

    Corporate ownership was determined using a chart compiled by The

    Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems (Howard 2007).

    This chart documents organic brand acquisitions by the top 25 North

    American food processors, last updated in July 2007.4 Our sampleincludes 34 organic retail brands that are partly or wholly owned by,

    or involved in strategic alliances with, these corporations. The organic

    commodities sold by these companies include dairy products, processed

    foods, canned produce, seeds, and tea. Some companies sell only a few

    organic commodities, while others are entirely dedicated to organic

    products.

    Content Analysis: Assessing the Prevalence of Food

    Democracy ThemesAnalysis of the websites led to the inductive identification of prominent

    themes within the corporate-organic foodscape, which were then related

    to values associated with food democracy. This allowed us to make

    explicit the mostly implicit messages about how corporate-organic foods

    were seemingly connected to locally scaled places and identifiable

    individuals, rather than being part of a larger and faceless commodity

    chain. We then conducted a content analysis to assess the prevalence offood democracy themes identified (Table 1).5 Because some subjective

    elements of the corporate-organic foodscape could not be reliably

    coded (eg feelings of simplicity and authenticity conveyed through web

    design), our coding provides conservative counts of food democracy

    themes used in corporate-organic foodscapes.C 2009 The Authors

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    The Corporate-organic Foodscape 517

    Table1:

    Fooddemocracythemesidentifiedinc

    orporateorganics

    Parent

    Brand

    Referenceto

    Useofan

    Specific

    Personalstories

    Connection

    Explicit

    corporation

    sm

    all/humble

    ourstory

    geographic

    offounders/

    tofamily

    connectionto

    b

    eginnings

    narrative

    references

    employe

    es

    farms

    par

    entcorporation

    Cargill+

    FrenchMeadows

    CocaCola

    Odwalla

    Con-Agra

    Lightlife

    DeanFoods

    Alta-Dena

    DeanFoods

    HorizonOrganic

    DeanFoods

    TheOrganicCow

    DeanFoods

    Whitewave/Silk

    GeneralMills

    CascadianFarms

    GeneralMills

    MuirGlen

    HC

    EarthsBestOrganic

    HC

    ArrowheadMills

    HC

    Casbah

    HC

    CelestialSeasonings

    HC

    Deboles

    HC

    GardenofEatin

    HC

    HainsPureFoods

    HC

    HealthValley

    HC

    ImagineFoods

    HC

    SoyDream/Rice

    Dream(ImagineFoods)

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    Table1:

    Continued

    Parent

    Brand

    Refe

    renceto

    Useofan

    Specific

    Personalsto

    ries

    Connection

    Explicit

    corporation

    small/humble

    ourstory

    geographic

    offounders/

    tofamily

    connectionto

    beg

    innings

    narrative

    references

    employee

    s

    farms

    par

    entcorporation

    HC

    NileSpice

    HC

    Shari-Anns

    HC

    Tofutown

    HC

    WalnutAcres

    HC

    WestSoy

    HC

    WestbraeLittle

    BearandBearitos

    HC

    WestbraeNatural

    HC

    SpectrumOrganics

    HersheyFoods

    Dagoba

    Kellogg

    Kashi

    Kellogg

    MorningstarFarms

    KraftFoods

    Boca

    KraftFoods

    BacktoNature

    MarsM&M

    SeedsofChange

    Pepsi

    NakedJuice

    Total

    23

    21

    19

    14

    10

    19

    Percentage

    68

    62

    56

    41

    29

    56

    :themepresent;:

    themeabsent.

    +CargillinvolvedinastrategicalliancewithFrenchM

    eadows.

    HC:Hain-Celestial.

    HeinzhaspartialownershipinHain-Celestial.Hain-Celestialisalsoinvolvedinastrategicalliancew

    ithCargill.

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    The Corporate-organic Foodscape 519

    Codable themes that we found included the following: connection

    to family farms, which were used to demonstrate an attachment to

    a particular rural locale and/or to symbolically connect consumption

    of the brand with an idealized agrarian mode of life (29%); personal

    stories of founders or employees, which worked to humanize the

    commodity, and suggest a sense of a locally scaled operation (41%); an

    explicit emphasis on the firms small-scale, humble beginnings (68%);

    the use of an Our Story narrative that also created a humanizing

    effect for the corporate commodity, suggesting a local rather than

    transnational scale of operation and constructing a foodscape quite

    distinct from the imaginary of the faceless corporate food system (62%);

    and specific geographic references to locally scaled places, which tended

    to involve descriptions of the companys history in a particular locality,

    even though current operations for corporate firms are clearly muchmore geographically expansive across national and transnational spaces

    (56%). At least one of these themes was present in all of the brands

    examined, suggesting that themes associated with food democracy are

    a broadly utilized corporate-organic marketing tool.

    We also examined brand websites to see if they openly acknowledged

    an association with a corporate owner or strategic partner. Here we

    looked to see if copyright information showed an association, if news

    release sections included details of the buyout, or if pages describing

    the brand history or profile acknowledged ownership or strategicpartnerships with a major food processor. We found that just over

    half of the brands acknowledged corporate ownership/partnership on

    their website (56%). However, of these brands, most (86%) are owned

    by the Hain-Celestial company, a company that specializes in organic

    and natural foods, but is partially owned by Heinz and is involved

    in a strategic partnership with Cargill. Importantly, no Hain-Celestial

    website mentioned an affiliation with Heinz or Cargill, and as such we

    found all but three of the 34 brands (91%) did not acknowledge the fullextent of corporate ownership and partnerships.

    Discourse Analysis: Putting Food Democracy

    Themes to WorkGiven the diversity of products under discussion and the large scale of

    corporate-organic operations, our content analysis revealed a substantial

    presence of food democracy themes. To better understand the ideological

    work occurring in the corporate-organic foodscape, discourse analysis

    was used to demonstrate the construction of a narrative focused onspecific places, humble origins, as well as face-to-face social and labour

    relations. For instance, many organic brands, such as Arrowhead Mills,

    Horizon Organic, Cascadian Farms, and Dagoba provide a romanticized

    description of a specific locality where the company began, whether it

    was on a specific farm, in a particular rural region of the United States,C 2009 The Authors

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    or a humble store located in a certain city or town. Invoking a specific

    geographic place is often done in conjunction with an emphasis on the

    small-scale nature of the operation, at least in its original incarnation, and

    most often with no mention of the firms current corporate ownership.

    Arrowhead Mills, for example, provides a map of the exact location

    of the founding office in Texas and includes the following description,

    which is emblematic of the Our Story feature found on many websites:

    Arrowhead Mills was founded over 40 years ago in a tin roofed

    building in the Texas panhandle by Frank Ford. Frank believed

    synthetic pesticides and herbicides weakened crop varieties, broke

    down resistance to disease and pests, and ultimately, polluted the food

    chain. He put his life savings down on a tractor and set out to farm

    organically grown corn and wheat. With a stone mill he ground his

    harvest and delivered it to local stores from the back of his pickuptruck (Arrowhead Mills 2007:para 1).

    References to highly specific geographic locations, and the metonymic

    identification of the company with a single individual that we can know

    on a first name basis, fosters an image of a company rooted in locally

    scaled places, engaged in personalized transactions, and dedicated

    to ecological principles, even when these roots have long been

    transcended in the process of corporate consolidation and expansion.

    Similarly, to maintain the image of a connection to a locally scaledplace of food production, some brands prominently feature home

    farms or factories designed for public tours. As part of its proud

    history, Cascadian Farms website details the companys origins on a

    single farm in the Upper Skagit Valley of Washingtons North Cascade

    Mountains. The corporate buyout of Cascadian Farm (it was bought

    by General Mills in 2000) is briefly noted, but what is emphasized is

    the home farm as a real placea working, active, productive farm

    that can be viewed online and visited in person (Cascadian Farms 2007:

    para 1). However, even Cascadian Farms corporate founder, Gene Kahn,admitted to journalist Michael Pollan that the Skagit Valley farm is a PR

    farm for General Mills (Pollan 2006a:145), not a farm that produces

    goods for Cascadian Farms internationally distributed commodities.

    Physical sites such as the Cascadian demonstration farm project an

    image of locally embedded and publicly accessible operations, but are

    fundamentally disconnected from the actual industrialized, large-scale

    operations where food is grown, processed, and packaged, as well as

    the geographically dispersed commodity chains.Of course, the social constructions of the corporate foodscape are

    open to contestation, and corporate organics in particular is a dynamic

    hybridized entity. The view that corporate-organic marketing is no more

    than an ideological veil for transnational agribusiness, while containing

    some truth, is too simple. Marketing campaigns can be deconstructed,

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    The Corporate-organic Foodscape 521

    and advertisements and websites can be read critically, and it is clear

    that many food analysts and at least some eaters are aware of the

    disjuncture between the claims embedded in corporate marketing and

    actual conditions of production. Corporations may respond to criticisms

    by changing their material practices and/or the discursive framing or

    marketing of their products. Thus The Organic Cow of Vermont changed

    its name to The Organic Cow in April 2006, after critics challenged

    its claim to be a Vermont-based company when it is headquartered

    in Boulder, Colorado (Totten 2004).6 Yet despite this challenge, the

    website for The Organic Cow continues to describe the companys

    Vermont origins, and outlines its support for Vermont family farms

    (The Organic Cow nd). Similarly, the producer profiles page on its

    website describes two farms, both located in Vermont (The Organic Cow

    ndb). These messages work together to construct a marketing discourseimbued with localism, and as instances of integrated and doubtless

    carefully constructed marketing campaigns, provide insight into the

    kinds of affective associations that transnational food corporations think

    consumers want to associate with organic food.

    The local scale and personalized relations can be seen as a rhetorical

    proxy for socially embedded and just labour relationsanother keystone

    of food democracy. Food sourced from the global South, however,

    presents distinct challenges in this regard, given the deep structures

    of global inequality. For example, the Dagoba website explains that itschocolate comes almost exclusively from small farms and co-ops but

    notes that when a higher-producing farm estate was discovered, we

    saw how equitable this farm was and tasted their amazing cacao [and]

    we were hooked. This partnership has yielded exquisite cacao, a better

    quality of life for cacao workers and their families, and the preservation

    of many plant, animal and insect species in the face of environmental

    degradation (Dagoba 2007:para 2). The Dagoba website then provides

    testimonials from current farm employees, which show the farm to bea relatively benevolent work environment, but simultaneously reveal

    deeply ingrained hierarchies and paternalism at odds with the ideals of

    food democracy:

    Always when I needed something, the bosses reached out their hand

    . . . The bosses treat us very well. They do not exploit the workers.

    Therefore I would like to offer my gratefulness for the treatment

    received . . . Don Hugo . . . is not a boss like so many who are always

    punishing or complaining or abusing the workers with bad words.

    (Dagoba 2007:para 79)

    For corporate organics sourced from the global North, the idea of

    buying food from a family farmer is prevalenta theme which reflects

    deeply seated North American ideals of agrarianism (Guthman 2004a).

    Horizon Organic, for example, emphasizes that: [f]amily farms hold

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    a very special place in our company (Horizon Organic 2006:para 1).

    Corporate-organic marketing links its products not only with farms, but

    also with specific people working for the companyemployees, farmer-

    suppliers, and even consumers. Spectrum Organics website similarly

    explains that: Here at Spectrum we recognize that the sum of our parts is

    greater than the whole. That means we value every individual involved

    whether the family olive farmers from the Cretan Agri-Environmental

    Coop who make Spectrums Organic Greek Olive Oil or Kristy in

    Quality Control who makes sure the caps fit tight. Youll soon be able

    to check out their profiles and stories here, or add one of your own

    youre Spectrum too! (Spectrum Organics nd:para 1). These narratives,

    along with links to employee profiles, represent an effort to humanize

    the process of commodity exchange, even if the commodity chain

    is globalized and the production process is industrialized. While thecompanys website demonstrates responsiveness to consumer demand,

    it is not clear what youre Spectrum too! actually means in terms of

    food democracycan a profit-driven company in strategic partnership

    with food conglomerates like Heinz and Cargill meaningfully devolve

    control over the food system to Spectrum consumers?

    The question should not be seen as entirely rhetorical, but as a

    push to discuss the pragmatic implications and contradictions for this

    type of humanizing discourse in the corporate-organic foodscape

    especially if we are to take seriously the idea that the corporate-organic marketing constitutes a hybridized identity that both opens and

    closes political opportunities. The contradictions and possibilities are

    perhaps best revealed when corporate-organic brands explicitly try to

    engage consumers in specific projects of food politicseven when these

    projects contradict the imperatives of industrial food production. The

    Kashi brand of cereals and crackers (owned by Kelloggs), for instance,

    has a page on its website dedicated to designing personal challenges

    for consumers and employees. Included among these challenges is aninjunction to Discover a local farmers market, because [l]ocally

    grown foods are not only beneficial for the environment, theyre often a

    lot fresher and cheaper too. Then, theres the added bonus of supporting

    local businesses. Make an effort this week to find out where and when

    your communitys next local farmers market takes place. Plan a trip

    (Kashi 2007:para 1).

    The apparent contradiction between the basic purpose of the Kashi

    siteto promote a brand that sells processed commodities made with

    grains sourced globally and distributed through global commoditychainsand the politics of local food provisioning, supports the view

    that corporate organics represent a complex case of hybridization rather

    than a simple, black and white instance of ideological obfuscation. One

    way to understand this contradiction would be to note that within the

    hybrid corporate-organic foodscape, there is space for a core of corporateC 2009 The Authors

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    The Corporate-organic Foodscape 523

    food provisioning, as well as a periphery of food democracy projects. In

    addition, we could observe that the particular types of products sold by

    Kashiand even Kelloggs more generallyare not frequently found

    at farmers markets. So in this particular instance, support for farmers

    markets might be seen as a less threatening motif of food democracy (or

    even eat-local more narrowly) than, say, committing to eat exclusively

    within a 100-mile radius (Smith and McKinnon 2007).

    A different, but related response would focus on the differing

    conceptualizations of the farmers market on offer. In the vision of

    food democracy, farmers markets are a core site where the relations

    between food producers and consumers are concretized; the force of

    the food democracy vision lies in the fact that these relations are

    humanized, rather than objectified or commodified. This distinction

    between humanized and objectified relationsthe essential distinctionon which the Marxist category of reification is foundedin turn grounds

    the possibility of subjective agency (Loftus 2006). As these relations are

    recognized as socially produced rather than naturally givenor in other

    words as they are defetishizedgreater possibilities for democratically

    remaking those relations are opened. The Kashi website, by contrast,

    presents farmers markets as a consumer choice that exists within the

    corporate-organic foodscape. The injunctions to discover and Plan a

    trip to the farmers market situates this environment as something more

    akin to a novel consumption object, rather than a site in which socialrelations are negotiated and community and citizenship are generated.

    To make farmers markets a democratic food issue and part of a larger

    struggle for universal food rightsrather than an elite niche market

    where markets are available for only a few hours or one day per

    week and accessible mainly to affluent consumersrequires more than

    passive consumer consumption, but mandates active participation of

    citizens organizations, social movements, and producers, as well as

    state involvement. More generally, for food democracy projects to avoidbecoming yuppie chow excursions that map onto class hierarchies

    (Guthman 2003:55), we require active and ongoing citizen attempts to

    democratize and defetishize the food systema topic to which we now

    turn.

    De-Fetishization and the Limits of Consumer RegulationTo recap, our discourse and content analysis suggest that many elements

    of the food democracy movementparticularly the most recent, eat-local variantshave been taken up and woven into the marketing dis-

    course of the corporate-organic foodscape. These marketing narratives

    fetishize locality and obscure spatially dispersed commodity chains as

    well as the corporate ownership structures antithetical to democratically

    controlled food systems. The attempt by transnationalized agribusinessC 2009 The Authors

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    524 Antipode

    to recuperate or preserve a connection to locally scaled placesalong

    with the specific farmers stories and humble, small-scale operations

    associated with local foodrecapitulates the more general dilemma of

    corporate-organic foodscapes, where ideals of sustainability and social

    justice grind against the drive toward mass production and consumption

    through spatially expansive distribution networks.

    Food analysts have documented an ongoing debate between small-

    scale local organics and corporate long-distance organics (Fromartz

    2006; Pollan 2006a). The corporate-organic foodscape might seem to

    confound this distinction, insofar as it incorporates local themes into the

    messages used to sell long-distance corporate products. At one level, it

    could be argued that the corporate-organic foodscapes usage of food

    democracy themes constructs a sense of foods origins that is largely

    divorced from material, social, and ecological considerations, and is thusa fetishized one: local places are understood in a reified fashion, with

    human and ecological communities romanticized, and the real ensemble

    of ecological and social relations underlying the commodity obscured.

    While there is some truth to this view, we need to look beyond simply

    exposing the hypocrisy of globalized agribusinesses, and explore how

    this particular form of commodity fetishism arises, and what flags it

    raises for food democracy projects. In other words, we must ask what

    does it mean when organic foods are sold using the food democracy

    discourse of local embeddedness?As organics become mainstreamed and corporatized, the focus

    on place and locality in the marketing of corporate-organic brands

    suggests that unique localities and thus unique food experiences are

    still possible, a theme that works against the increasing sameness

    and homogenization in the corporate foodscape more widely. The sheer

    range of corporate-organic products on the one hand provides consumers

    with the benefits of cosmopolitan globalization, while on the other, the

    marketing of these products seeks to communicate a sense of inhabiting(or perhaps more precisely, consuming) locally embedded places or a

    distinct socio-ecological community. Corporate organics offers a world

    of multiple local products shipped globally. But it is important to ask

    to what extent it can deliver on what it promises, and in particular, to

    what extent its objectives clash with the ideals of food democracy.

    Images and messages associated with place, locality, and real

    producers do seem compatible with food democracy ideals, yet

    become more problematic when we consider how these messages have

    been produced within a corporate foodscape designed to maximizeprofitability through long-distance commodity chains, economies of

    scale, and centralized corporate control. The corporate vision necessarily

    sees food as a commodity, or in other words, a vehicle for the

    accumulation of value. The concept of food democracy, however, defines

    food as a life good that should ideally exist within democratic control inC 2009 The Authors

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    The Corporate-organic Foodscape 525

    the commons.7 What the corporate-organic foodscape arguably provides

    is thus a simulation of place, locality, and humanized producers: images

    of precisely those things that are destroyed by capitalisms tendency to

    subsume everything to the law of value. In this view, if corporate organics

    represent a bridge between corporate agriculture and food democracy,then they are in fact a fetishized link with an era, and a localized form

    of social exchange, that predates globalized capitalism.

    It is this fetishized relationship that illustrates the crucial limitations

    of corporate organics, as well as the potential pitfalls for newer iterations

    of food democracy such as the eat-local movement. Corporate organics

    attempts to bridge the two worlds require that food democracy be

    identified as a product with particular reified features, whether this is

    organic (defined in terms of non-synthetic inputs), local (defined

    as specific geographical locations and/or geographical proximity),small-scale (defined as involving identifiable individuals), or some

    combination of these features. Without denying that products with these

    features may be more ecologically sustainable than their conventional

    counterparts, as long as these features in and of themselves are taken to

    be a static index of food democracy, then the conception of democracy

    here remains thin and staticit is a vision closely identified with

    consumerisms ideals of individual choice and voting with your

    pocketbook, and resists the more challenging elements of democratic

    process, such as moving towards decentralized ownership structures and

    creating non-commodified social and economic relationships around

    food.

    While consumer-based activity is recognized as an important source

    of social change (Miller 1995; Stolle et al 2005), the contradictions and

    limitations of consumer-based forms of political action are increasingly

    well documented, theorized, and linked to neoliberal agendas (Freidberg

    2004; Goodman 2004:909; Guthman 2007:263; Johnston 2008). Work

    by Barnett et al (2005) casts doubt on the assumption that ethicalshopping is a straightforward affair, or that information defetishizing

    commodities automatically leads to different purchasing decisions, and

    hence social change. Part of the reason for this may be precisely the

    thin conception of democracy that such a view of consumer-based

    social change entails. Because consumer identities, social relations, and

    capitalist institutions are taken as pre-given, consumer-based politics

    are often focused on in-store decision-making, and less concerned with

    the myriad of decisions made long before shoppers confront products

    on store shelves.The robustness of food democracy therefore depends less on the

    ability to vote with ones dollar, and more on the capacity to

    defetishize. But defetishization involves more than revealing the

    real production relations that lie beneath the ideological veneer, or

    exposing marketing hypocrisy. As Castree (2001) argues, followingC 2009 The Authors

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    526 Antipode

    Jean Baudrillard, the semiology of commodity surfaces deserves to

    be taken seriously as a kind of productive reality in its own righta

    reality that we incorporate into our conceptualization of the foodscape

    as a material and ideational realm producing corporate organics as a

    hybrid entity. The point of defetishizationof the corporate foodscape

    as well as of capitalist relationships more generallyis not to posit

    another pre-given, essentialized understanding of the nature of social

    reality, but rather to open the constitution of that social reality up to

    question. In other words, it is not just a matter of revealing the reality

    of corporate-organic hypocrisy, but a matter of making the social

    relations of food production, distribution, and consumption transparent

    and open to political contestation and transformation.

    In the face of increasingly globalized agribusiness, a first step for

    defetishization and democratization would be a challenge to concen-trations of corporate power that marginalize community and citizen

    capacities. In the face of corporate hybridization and appropriation of

    food democracy themes, new modes of discursively organized food

    democracy constantly need to be developed, with past lessons kept

    firmly in mind. The challenges of creating new citizen-based modes

    of engagement, versus a menu of new, guilt-free shopping options

    for affluent consumers, should not be underestimated. Conceptions of

    farmers markets or CSAs that see participants as individual clients or

    consumers (particularly in urbanized settings, where these can operateas a boutique mode of food procurement), work to reproduce a mode

    of political engagement grounded in individual consumer choice and

    favoring elite social classes, rather than aiming for the conscious

    re-constitution of more equitable, democratic, and sustainable socio-

    ecological relations in the food system.

    Conclusion

    Our mapping of the corporate-organic foodscape illustrates that thebiggest and best-selling organic brands have adopted and fetishized key

    themes from a vision of food democracy. Brand websites are heavily

    imbued with the imagery of specific places, family farms and rural

    landscapes, and personalized narratives. These have become a key

    marketing feature, even if they have little relationship to the long-

    distance commodity chains and centralized ownership structures that

    also characterize corporate agribusiness.

    The corporate expansion and industrialization of organics has raised

    the possibility of the organic label losing the public trust (DeLind2000:204), and the emphasis on local places and people in corporate

    organics can in part be explained as an adaptation to accommodate

    resistance to emerging public critiques. Corporate-organic marketing

    strategies provide a commodified way to consume locality (rural

    Vermont dairy products, or olive oil from Cretan family farms), andC 2009 The Authors

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    The Corporate-organic Foodscape 527

    respond to anxieties about placelessness that accompany globalized

    production processes.

    The inclusion of food democracy themes in corporate-organic

    advertising presents real challenges for food democracy movements.

    For food system activists, it raises the question of how best to make

    food democracy projects an attractive option in a sea of corporate

    commodities, many of which seem to offer the promise of a locally

    embedded, socially just food system. While it is important for food

    system activists to think strategically, to pose the question exclusively

    as a concern of market differentiation risks missing an essential point:

    that food democracy is not simply a product to be marketed. One way

    of understanding the corporate appropriation of food democracy themes

    is to recognize that the desires for humanized socio-ecological relations

    have public resonance, and that corporate-organic marketing campaignsmay open up further spaces for the articulation of those desires. In

    addition to encouraging greater attention to ecological stewardship,

    food democracy also entails the opportunity to realize those desires

    through the collective constitution of the relations of food production,

    distribution, and consumption. Food system sustainability needs to

    be seen as much more than a set of ecological standards easily met

    by discerning consumers: it is a fundamentally political project with

    obligatory cultural, social, and ideological dimensions.

    Just as food democracy needs to be conceptualized as both anecological and political project, an additional challenge is the simul-

    taneous embrace and transcendence of localism (Hinrichs 2003:34).

    While proximity is an important starting point for a food system,

    particularly since re-localization can provide manageable opportunities

    for civic engagement (Allen 2004:207; Hendrickson and Heffernan

    2002:364366), for defetishization to work all the way down into

    food democracy requires that we let go of a local that fetishizes

    emplacement as intrinsically just (DuPuis and Goodman 2005:364).Advocates of a new politics of scale call for a reflexive localism which

    avoids defensive xenophobiait is rooted in place, but simultaneously

    looks outwards to establish solidarity and equality translocally, and

    even transnationally as in the case of fair-trade (Allen 2004:176177;

    Castree 2004; DuPuis and Goodman 2005; Goodman 2004; Grenfell

    2006:241242; Johnston et al 2006). In other words, while the local

    scale may be appropriate in some cases (eg progressive community

    projects), in other cases governance and ownership issues may be more

    effectively organized at the regional or state scale, where demands forfood sovereignty in the international political economy can be negotiated

    (Allen 2004:175; Johnston and Baker 2005).

    While the challenges facing food democracy are significant, it is

    politically and analytically important to avoid deterministic conclusions.

    The rise of corporate organics is in part a response to the feelingC 2009 The Authors

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    that consumers are implicated in ecosystem crisis and globalized

    networks of exploitation with every trip to the grocery store (see Le

    Billon 2006), and embedded within a political economic system that

    provides a profusion of consumer choices which contribute to feelings

    of disorientation (Iyengar and Lepper 2000; Jameson 1991). The rise

    of corporate organics appears compatible with a story of capitalist co-

    optation, but, as we have emphasized, this is not simply a story about how

    genuine alternative practices are annulled by corporate appropriation.

    The articulation of food democracy themes in the marketing of corporate

    organics speaks to the powerful social meanings of food democracy

    themeseating locally, supporting local growers, organizing production

    on a manageable scale. Food democracy activities attempt to channel

    these themes through non-commodified programs, while marketers

    produce similar narratives to sell their products. A process of corporateappropriation is indeed occurring, yet the meanings and social critiques

    within these marketing messages may escape the authors intentions.

    The feeling of being lost in the supermarket can also work to motivate

    eaters to search for meaningful alternatives, and think beyond a political-

    economic and ideological foodscape that favors corporate agribusiness.

    Most crucially, this collective re-thinking of the industrial food system

    can, and must, motivate a collective challenge to the neoliberal reliance

    on consumer choice as the optimal means of regulating how and what

    we eat.

    AcknowledgementsThe authors would like to thank anonymous Antipode reviewers for their useful

    comments on this paper. Other useful feedback was provided by commentators at

    meetings of the Canadian Communications Association (2006) and the Social Research

    in Organic Agriculture conference in Guelph, ON (2007). This research was undertaken,

    in part, thanks to funding from the Canada Research Chairs Program.

    Endnotes1 One British study estimates that a shopping basket with 26 imported organic goods

    travels up to 241,000 km before reaching the consumer (Jones 2001:1).2 In California, organic agriculture began as industry with large corporate-owned

    organic farms and few smallholders (Guthman 2004a).3 While the parameters of locality are debated by eat-local activists, the term generally

    refers to food that travels hundreds (rather than thousands) of miles from farm to fork;

    local foods can be transported to market within a few hours of truck transport, rather

    than a few days of transnational air-transport supply chains (see Halweil 2005).4 Our sample of brands, generated in October 2007, is slightly different because of the

    absence of some product websites (eg Fruiti de Bosca and Millinas Finest).5 The themes observed on the websites reviewed speak to the nature of the consumer

    desires that the corporate foodscape seeks to satisfy. Because we see a dialectical

    relationship between corporate marketing and consumer desires, a reception analysis

    of consumer interpretations of the corporate-organic foodscape would be a useful

    complementary piece of research to our corporate discourse analysis, but one which

    is beyond the scope of this paper.

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    6 The Organic Cow of Vermont was originally based in Stowe, Vermont, but the

    headquarters was moved to Colorado once it was bought by Dean Foods in 1999.7 We are thinking here, for example, of community gardens, publicly subsidized good

    food boxes, and the myriad other community food security projects that prioritize

    sustainable, culturally appropriate access to food for low-income populations (Johnston

    and Baker 2005; Norberg-Hodge et al 2002).

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