48 LIVINGSTONE

Interview | Johnie Berntsson

49LIVINGSTONE

Interview | Johnie Berntsson

Restaurant Zigante - Livade / The Restaurant Zigante in Livade

Akcija Dobri hrvatski restorani u organizaciji Večernjega lista i Hrvatske turističke zajednice za 2005. godinu - prvo mjesto, 91 bod. Ista akcija 2007. godine - prvo mjesto, 92 boda od mogućih 100. Gault Milau (austrijski Michelin) - prvo uvrštavanje 2003. godine i 14 bodova te 1 kapica, 2007. godine - 16 bodova i 2 kapice, mogućih je inače 20 bodova i 3 kapice. Guida Veronelli (talijanski Michelin) za 2006. i 2007. - dvije zvjezdice, maksimum su tri zvjezdice. Moja Najdraža, kada smo prvi put upoznali šefa kuhinje Damira Modrušana, rekla je: “Vidi što je zgodan, kao George Clooney.” Nadam se da vam je sad jasno kako je teško nakon ovakvih kvalifikacija pisati o Restoranu Zigante. Tko sam ja da im sudim, no ipak sam se prihvatio te teške zadaće.

Godina 1995.

Nakon kratkoga boravka u Italiji mladi i ambiciozni kuhar Damir Modrušan zapošljava se u Puli, u tada kultnom Restoranu Bodulka koji danas vodi

The promotion of the campaign ‘Good Croatian Restaurants’, organized by Večernji list and the Croatian National Tourist Board for 2005 – 1st place and 91 points. The same campaign in 2007 - 1st place and 92 points from a maximum 100. Gault-Millau (Austrian Michelin) – first placing in 2003, 14 points and 1 cap, and in 2007, 16 points and 2 caps from a maximum of 20 points and 3 caps. Guida Veronelli (Italian Michelin) - for 2006 and 2007, two stars, from a maximum of three. I remember when we first met the chef, Damir Modrušan, - “Look how handsome he is”, he reminded me of George Clooney. I hope you understand now how difficult it is to write about the Zigante restaurant after the mentioned authorities, who am I to judge them, however, I decided to venture into this difficult task.

Year 1995

After a short stay in Italy, the young and ambitious cook Damir Modrušan found employment in Pula in the cult restaurant

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Dream Team

Piše / Text by:

Darko Baretić

Fotografija / Photos by:

Davor Žunić

Vizionar Giancarlo pokazuje se i kao vrhunski poduzetnik – pragmatik. Za šefa kuhinje dolazi Damir Modrušan, a za voditelja servisa i sommeliera Emil Perdec...

The visionary Giancarlo proved himself also as an excellent, pragmatic entrepreneur. Damir Modrušan was appointed chef and Emil Perdec as manager and sommelier...

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EtnoGastro | Restaurant Zigante

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ugostiteljska legenda Duško Černjul. Na jesen iste godine gospođa Sonja Perić u Puli pokreće svoj obiteljski hotel Valsabion s restoranom koji je, prema našem sudu, u to vrijeme najviše približio hrvatske gastro standarde svjetskima. Na mjesto konobara dolazi raditi Emil Perdec. Priča o eno-gastro dream teamu počinje.

Godina 1999.

Giancarlo Zigante razvio je posao otkupa i veletrgovine tartufima nađenim u Motovunskoj šumi i okolici u koji uključuje i svog sina Adriana. U Livadama je pred otvaranjem trgovina svježim, zamrznutim i prerađenim proizvodima od tartufa, maslinovim uljima, vinima, medom, rakijama i sličnim proizvodima. Ima viziju širenja trgovina na područje Istre, Kvarnera i Zagreba. Stalno sanja kako bi tu u Livadama trebao posjedovati vrhunski restoran koji bi bio izvjestan showroom njegovih proizvoda i ujedno svojevrstan marketinški generator njegova posla s tartufima. Uz to smatra da njegov rodni kraj i Tuber magnatum pico (bijeli tartuf), veličanstveni proizvod Motovunske šume, zaslužuju spomenik. U šetnji Motovunskom šumom, u pratnji svoje kujice Dijane pronalazi golem bijeli tartuf. Vaganjem utvrđuje da je težak 1 kg i 31 gram. Ulazi u Guinessovu knjigu rekorda kao najteži ikada pronađeni bijeli tartuf. Odlazeći na proslavu toga događaja u Kremenje (mjesto između Buja i Momjana), odlučuje izgraditi restoran. Priča o eno-gastro dream teamu dobiva svoj dramaturški zamašnjak.

Od 2002. do 2007. godine

Otvoren je Restoran Zigante u Livadama. Vizionar Giancarlo pokazuje se i kao vrhunski poduzetnik – pragmatik. Za šefa kuhinje dolazi Damir Modrušan, a za voditelja servisa i sommeliera Emil Perdec, dvojac koji se u međuvremenu iskalio u hrvatskom gastro butiku gospođe Sonje Perić. Godine 2005. restoran se proširuje i preuređuje tako da ima dvije sale i terase, sve u elegant, a la carte verziji.

Od ove godine gostima, koji žele duže boraviti u tom kraju, na raspolaganju su i tri luksuzna apartmana te ekskluzivna trgovina s proizvodima obitelji Zigante. O formalnim rezultatima restorana pisali smo na početku, a sada nekoliko informacija o osobnim dosezima. Emil Perdec je 2004. i 2005. godine bio najbolji sommelier Hrvatske i predstavljao je Hrvatsku na prvenstvu Europe u Reimsu – Francuska. Damira Modrušana je u više navrata posljednjih godina struka nominirala među pet najboljih hrvatskih kuhara, a posebno bi istakli njegov zapažen nastup na festivalu Alpe Adria cooking u Udinama u ožujku ove godine gdje je nastupio u društvu mlade španjolske zvijezde Dania Garcie i kultnoga slovenskoga kuhara Tomaža Kavčiča iz Dvorca Zemono.

Kriteriji

Četiri su osnovna kriterija prema kojima treba suditi o kvaliteti restorana. Pojednostavljeno rečeno: kuhinja, servis, uređenje i održavanje te dobivena vrijednost za uložen novac. Posebno te kriterije treba uvažavati kad se ocjenjuju restorani, tzv. “visoke kuhinje” ma što te dvije riječi značile. Prvi kriterij podrazumijeva izvornost

Bodulka, run today by Duško Černjul, a legend in the catering business. In autumn of the same year, Mrs. Sonja Perić opened, in Pula the family run hotel Valsabion and a restaurant, which, according to our opinion, contributed greatly to rise Croatian gastronomic standards onto the international level. Emil Perdec came to work as a waiter. The story about the enological-gastronomic team is about to begin.

Year 1999

Giancarlo Zigante, together with his son Adrian developed the business of the repurchase and wholesale trade of truffles from the woods of Motovun and the surrounding area. That year in Livade he opened a shop selling fresh, frozen and processed truffle-based products, olive oils, wines, honey, grappa (a brandy distilled from the fermented residue of grapes after they have been pressed in winemaking) and similar products. He had a vision of opening more stores throughout Istria, Kvarner and Zagreb. He was dreaming of opening a first-class restaurant in Livade, a kind of product showroom and at the same time a marketing promoter of his truffle business. Besides, he considered that his birthplace and the tuber magnatum pico (white truffle), a magnificent product of Motovun’s woods, deserve a monument in the place where it has already been growing for centuries. During a walk through the Motovun’s woods with his dog Diana he found an enormous white truffle, weighing 1 kg 31 grams. The truffle was entered in the Guinness Book of Records as the heaviest white truffle ever found. When he went to celebrate the event in Kremenje (situated between Buje and Momjan), he decided to open a restaurant. The story about the enological-gastronomic dream team gained its dramaturgic momentum.

Year 2002– 2007

In 2002 the Restaurant Zigante in Livade was opened. The visionary Giancarlo

proved himself also as an excellent, pragmatic entrepreneur. Damir Modrušan was appointed chef and Emil Perdec as manager and sommelier, a duo which in the meantime distinguished itself in the gastronomic boutique of Mrs. Sonja Perić.In 2005 the restaurant was widened and redecorated, consisting of two rooms and two terraces, all in elegant, á la carte style. From that year on guests wishing to stay longer in the area have also had three luxurious apartments and an exclusive store selling the products of the Zigante family at their disposal. After mentioning at the very beginning the official results, we would like also to say something about personal achievements. In 2004 and 2005 Emil Perdec was the best sommelier in Croatia and he represented the country at the European Championships in Reims – France. In the last few years, Damir Modrušan has been proclaimed in many occasions as one of the five best cooks in Croatia and we will stress in particular his outstanding appearance at the Alpe-Adria cooking festival in Udine in March of this year, where he participated together with the young Spanish star Dani Garcia and the cult Slovenian cook Tomaž Kavčič from the Zemono manor house in Vipava.

Giancarlo Zigante razvio je posao otkupa i veletrgovine tartufima nađenim u Motovunskoj šumi i okolici u koji uključuje i svog sina Adriana...

Giancarlo Zigante, together with his son Adrian developed the business of the repurchase and wholesale trade of truffles from the woods of Motovun and the surrounding area...

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i kvalitetu namirnica, složenost i preciznost tehnika pripreme i slaganje ukusa s izgledom i načinom prezentacije hrane na tanjuru. Drugi ocjenjuje znanja i vještine te tehnike posluživanja koje osiguravaju da se hrana servira gostu u optimalnom trenutku s adekvatnim popratnim sadržajima (peciva, jelovnik, maslinova ulja, aperitivi, pribor za jelo, čaše, sommelierska znanja i vještine, voda, vinska karta, napitci, cigare...). Treći sadržava estetske, funkcionalne i higijenske čimbenike u kojima se zbiva serviranje i konzumacija hrane ( stolci i njihova udobnost, stolnjaci, stolovi, zavjese, slike, boje, sanitarije, glazba, cvijeće, čistoća...). Četvrti uključuje vrednovanje usluge dobivene u prva tri kriterija u usporedbi s ostalim restoranima i iznosom pripadajućeg računa. Prvi i drugi kriterij, prema mom mišljenju, sudjeluju u ukupnoj ocjeni s oko 70 %, a treći i četvrti s oko 30%. Procjenjujući na osnovi tih kriterija restorane koje sam posjetio u Hrvatskoj, slažem se s ocjenom Večernjega lista i Turističke zajednice Hrvatske. Zigante je najjači u prva dva kriterija, a posebice u usklađenosti kuharske i servisne ekipe. Neovisno o prisustvu Perdeca i Modrušana dobit ćete primjerenu vrijednost za novac, a to će vam osigurati kompetentno osoblje.

Sinergijom do uspjeha

Ono zbog čega posebno cijenim Perdeca i Modrušana, činjenica je da iako su vrhunski individualci, ponajbolji u Hrvatskoj, djeluju kao tim, svjesni činjenice da je sinergijski učinak njihova zajednička rada veći od pukoga zbroja njihova eventualna pojedinačna djelovanja. Perdec i Modrušan, primjenjujući principe iz knjige Funky Bussines, samosvjesno i profesionalno rade posao koji vole i igraju se na našu i njihovu sreću. I ne želeći to, postali su institucija. Tako mladi, pa već institucija.

Criteria

There are four basic criteria when judging restaurant quality. To simplify: 1. Kitchen, 2. Service, 3. Fitting and maintenance and 4. Gained value for the money invested. These criteria have to be taken in consideration particularly in the appraisal of the so-called “high kitchen” restaurant, whatever these two words mean. The first criterion implies food authenticity and quality, complexity and technical precision in the preparation and composition of taste components with the visual perception and the way of presenting the food on the plate. The second criterion takes into account knowledge, skills and serving techniques which ensure that the food is served to the guest in the optimal moment with adequate side-dishes (rolls, menu, olive oils, aperitifs, cutlery, glasses, the sommelier’s knowledge and skills, water, wine list, drinks, cigarettes...). The third criterion consists of aesthetical, functional and hygienic factors, related to food serving and consumption (chairs and chair comfort, table, tablecloths, curtains, paintings, colors, sanitary appliances, music, flowers, cleanliness). The fourth criterion relates to the evaluation of the service obtained through the first three criteria in

comparison to other restaurants and the amount of the corresponding bill. In my opinion the first and the second criteria participate in the total appraisal with about 70%, while the third and the fourth with about 30%. Making an appraisal of the restaurants I visited in Croatia on the basis of this criterion, I agree with the vote of Vecernji list and the Croatian National Tourist Board. Zigante dominates in the first two criteria and in particular in conforming the cooking and the service team. Independently of the presence of Perdec and Modrušan, you will get proportional value for money, ensured by competent personnel.

The synergy of success

The reason why I particularly admire Perdec and Modrušan is because they are outstanding as individuals, the best in Croatia, but a real team, aware of the fact that the synergic result of their joint work is bigger than a simple count of their eventual individual deed. By applying the principles of the book Funky Business, Perdec and Modrušan self-confidently and professionally do the work they like and play both on their and our satisfaction. Without even wanting that, they became an institution. So young and already an institution.

Godine 2005. restoran se proširuje i preuređuje tako da ima dvije sale i terase, sve u elegant, a la carte verziji...

In 2005 the restaurant was widened and redecorated, consisting of two rooms and two terraces, all in elegant, á la carte style...