Japan Special feature: Escape 2014

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Harajuku Girls also calledLolita Girls hang out in

various places, particularlyHarajuku. Theyre oftenaccompanied by boyfriends,fashion-design studentsdressed down in black T-shirtsand black jeans.

But the girls, a bizarre buttourist-attracting strand of

Japanese youth culture, arekitted to kill.

Often described as similar toAustralias Goths, they certainlydont skimp on face powder.

Their clothing includeselaborate faux-Victorianfashions, schoolgirl outfits andcosplay costumes (where theymodel themselves on favouritecartoon characters).

Im thirsty after anafternoon exploring MeijiShrines grounds and Harajuku,so I stop at a kawaii-decorated

vending machine. My cola has braille on the can top so blind buyers wont encounter nastytaste surprises.

Thats Japan for you. Theythink of everything.

(The trees splendid blaze of colour is mostly between Marchand May, varying according tolocation but accuratelypredicted for domestic andforeign tourists convenience.)

Nowhere is this delightful Japanese dichotomy morehandily evident than close toTokyos Harajuku Station.

Throngs wander throughone of Japans most sacred sites:garden-setting Meiji Shrine, aShinto place of worship alsorevered by followers of theBuddhist faith but it s only afew minutes stroll fromHarajukus shopping precinct.

Harajuku is best-known forshops selling foreign fashions

with distinctive and outlandish Japanese flourishes,particularly in its backstreets and for Harajuku Girls.

sums making Japanese ads and often threaten to sueanyone publishing these ads intheir homelands.

Events such as sakura, the blossoming of cherry trees,send Japanese scurrying togovernment-produced charts(much like fishermens tidalcharts in Australia) to decide ondates and locations forexperiencing this much-awaited annual phenomenon.

1868. Entering or leaving without rarely grantedpermission was punishable bydeath. Isolationism andxenophobia ruled.

How times have changed.These days, Japan loves

foreign items. Stores are awashin imports. The country is anultra-important market forWestern designer brands.Movie stars and othercelebrities earn astronomical

Japanese love it. Think HelloKitty and you get the picture.

Garish colours andsupposedly lovable cartooncharacters are prominentfeatures of many Japaneseproducts and billboards as astroll down any supermarketaisle quickly reveals.

But kawaii, to a Westerner,often means kitsch and corny.

Japan was almost totally cutoff from the outside world until

THE geisha hurriesdown a dark street inKyotos restaurant-filled Gion district onher way to meet a client, theTokyo-based director of an up-

and-coming IT company. Hermake-up is dominated by heavy white face powder. She wears adistinctive costume unchangedover centuries but talksanimatedly into a late-modelmobile phone.

A microcosm of present-day Japan, shes an easygoing blendof ancient culture and hi-techmodernity.

Better knowninternationally for itstechnological innovations, thisAsian nation of 128 millionpeople is as enthusiastic aboutage-old traditions as it is aboutpioneering the new.

Whats more, traditionaletiquette right and wrong

ways for doing almosteverything hasnt been eroded by Japans compulsion to comeup with life-changing advances.

The Japanese, of course,think all of this is ho-hum.

But what they regard asnormal is precisely whatfascinates gaijin (non- Japanese) who find the countryout-of-the-ordinary andexciting a holiday destination brimful of unique experiencesthats arguably Asias mostappealing getaway.

As tourism authorities put it:Everyday moments createextraordinary memories.

Japan 3300km long fromnorthernmost Hokkaido to theYaeyama Islands in far-southern Okinawa prefecture(an archipelago on its own) comprises four main islands:Honshu (with the capital,Tokyo, as well as No.2 cityOsaka and scenic touristdestination Kyoto), Hokkaido(increasingly, an Australianskiers favourite), Kyushu andShikoku. Altoge ther, Japan hasalmost 2500 islands in its377,923sq km of land.

One of the first Japaneseattributes that foreign visitorsnotice is the locals kawaiiobsession. Kawaii means cuteand adorable and the

CONTRASTS: (clockwisefrom left) An avenue ofcherry blossoms; OsakasShinsekai (New World)district and TsutenkakuTower; and a group of oneday geisha Japanese girls inKyoto City. Pictures: istock

JAPAN SPECIAL TRADITIONALAND MODERN

IN ritual-rich Japan, there areright and wrong ways of doingalmost everything. Fortunately,being labelled a dumb foreigner causing confusion andembarrassment by behavingdifferently is easily avoided.Whats more, emulating theJapanese ensures a betterholiday and saves money.

Ten simple tips:

1 Ride the subway: Japaneseare proud of their cities far-reaching subway systems cheaper than taxis and quickerthan buses. Announcements andsigns are usually in English.Lost? Locals are usually happy tohelp. Young people often speaksome English.

2Dont leave tips: Japan is anon-tipping nation. Gratuitiesare politely declined. Anecdotestell of efforts to return cash

forgotten on restaurant orhotel room tables.

3Skip clip joints: Contrastingwith non-tipping norms areclip joints sometimes calledhostess bars. They cluster inTokyos Roppongi, Ginza andShinjuku but are also found inother cities. Avoid them unlessyou have deep pockets.

4No need to bow: Businesstravellers bow to contactsbut holiday-makers mostlyneednt. Ticket inspectors bowto train passengers beforemoving to the next carriage.Hotel employees bow to guestscrossing lobbies. Butreciprocation isnt expected.

5Take side-trips: Include hi-tech Tokyo and charmingKyoto (twinning traditional and

futuristic) on itineraries. Skiersadore far-northern Hokkaidowhile subtropical Okinawa,Japans southernmost prefecture,grows in side-trip popularity.

6 Quirky museums: Manyshowcase colourful shogunhistory. Art galleries highlighttraditional works as well as localtakes on modern art. Specialistmuseums exhibit warrior swords,calligraphy, kimonos and uniquecomic book art called manga.

7 Use vending machines: Ubiquitous and rarely out of

order, they sell a wide range ofproducts including hot or colddrinks (with many coffeestyles), steaming soups andice-cold beers.

8 Somewhere to sleep:Traditional inns, called

DOS AND DONTS IN JAPAN

Asias most appealing getaway

A blend of ancient and modern make thisa holiday destination full of uniqueexperiences, writes Chris Pritchard

ryokan, are often as high-pricedas 5-star hotels. Shop carefully.The same holds true for templestays. Clean mid-markethotels at rates similar toAustralias are often foundnear railway stations.

9 Dont order too much:Japanese main courses oftencome with soup and side dishesas well as rice. One coursegenerally suffices, even if touristscommonly dont realise this.Prices are similar to those inAustralias main cities.

10Clean and green: Wiltingamid the bustle? Head fora park. Japans are usuallyexquisitely manicured.Some boast paths lined bycherry trees. Theyrecommonly attached to visitor-welcoming temples.

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disagreeing on whether someancient metropolis slipped intothe sea or natural or ifmischievous weathering ofrocks occurred. Then there sdiving amid some of the worldsmost spectacular reefs andnumerous white-sand beaches.

Even in Okinawa geographically closer to Taiwanand South Korea than to the restof Japan the topography differsgreatly from island to island.Iriomote, for example, is jungle-clad, with cruises alongOkinawas longest river, theUrauchi, as well as forest treks,mountaineering and hikespitched at differing fitness levels.

My favourite park in Japan ishuge: 400ha Banna Park, nearIshigaki City. It boasts easy

walks through landscapedgardens, longer hikes alongforest trails, a long andfuturistic-looking footbridgeover a reservoir and even a

butterfly museum.As I walk a long Nahas

Kokusai St, the citys main dragand Okinawas major retailstrip, a line of palms stretchesahead of me. I certainly hadntexpected to see palm trees in

Japan. But, then, Japan is brimful of surprises.

The path is regarded asKyotos best venue for viewing

brief cherry blossom displaysthat create gorgeous blazes ofpink. (Dates vary slightly fromyear to year but are usually inlate March and early April.)

Urban on-foot explorationof Tokyo a not-to-be-misseddiversion with guided walkssold at hotels tour or conciergedesks should include keyprecincts: corporate Shinjuku,neon-garish Ginza, nightlife-rich Roppongi and Harajukusshopping zone. But Tsukiji, the

worlds biggest fish market,shouldnt be missed even if itdemands getting up at dawn.

Domestic jets from major Japanese cities serve the islandchain of Okinawa, a part of

Japan that has recently seen asurge in Australian visitors. Thetwo key airports are Naha onOkinawa Main Island andIshigaki on an eponymous isle.

The Japanese call it the onlytropical part of their country,

but Australians often describethe climate as subtropical itsgenerally no hotter thanQueenslands Gold Coast.

Okinawas many attractionsinclude an Atlantis-likeunderwater city, with scientists

take in some of Japans mostsacred temples.

But Honshus most-visitedcity is Kyoto, a former capitaloozing history and culturedespite a hi-tech overlay. Twosupreme attractions, Kinkaku- ji (Golden Pavilion) andGinkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion) areset amid exquisitely landscapedgardens, koi-filled ponds linked by boardwalks and forest trails.

For anyone visiting Kyotoduring sakura (cherry blossom)season, a walk along Tetsugakuno michi is a must. A short stonepath at a canals edge, its knownin English as Philosophers Pathin honour of Nishida Kitaro, arespected thinker who in theearly 1900s found the routeconducive to daily meditation.

Elsewhere on Honshu, Japanese fondness for walksand hikes is all too apparent.Even in mega-cities such asTokyo and Osaka, walkingtours are popular. Amblesthrough large green lungssuch as Tokyos 54ha YoyogiPark reveal the full gamut ofambulant humanity, fromdetermined power-walkers toeasygoing strollers.

Even Hiroshimas PeaceMemorial Park, whichcommemorates World War IIsA-bomb carnage, is in a gardensetting with extensive walkingpaths. A short ferry ride away,the small isle of Miyajima boasts walks ranging fromlazy meanders to challenginguphill hikes. Both options

On a free day, going for asoak in an onsen is almost ascommon as belting out My Way at a karaoke bar.

Its a common but whollyerroneous belief that a certainsameness pervades Japan andthat it matters little where yougo. No way. While culture andcuisine are similar, importantregional differences also exist.

The northern island ofHokkaido, for instance,aggressively markets its skiresorts to Australians.

Some have even created adistinctly Australian flavour

without diluting their Japanese ambience.

However, whats not as widely known in Australia as itprobably should be is that skiingand snowboarding are availableat some of Hokkaidos manylocations even during thequieter Japanese spring monthsof March and April.

In summer, with snow gone,Hokkaidos many hiking trailsattract their own fans.

Some skiers are determinedto ski on Mt Fuji. Whileenjoyable, it doesnt offer Japans most challenging skiing.

Nonetheless, its worthnoting that one of Mt Fujis twoskiing locations, Fujiten andSnow Town Yeti, is routinelythe first in the country to unveilits slopes each season withguests checking in fromOctober. While summers Julyand August are busiest forclimbing Mt Fuji, hiking trailsare popular throughout the warm season.

MY NOSE, pressingagainst glass,manufacturestrain window mist as I watch

Japan speed by.Rail trips shatterpreconceptions, splinteringassumptions that this Asianpowerhouse is a place of wall-to-wall factories.

Instead, my journeys whiskme through coniferous forestsin the colder north andsubtropical rainforest in the warmer south. Im surprised tofind places where I see no signof human habitation.

Mind you, farmland coversmuch of the countryside,carpeted as it is in fields of riceand other crops. These pressagainst walls of factoriesseemingly plonked in themiddle of rural scenes.

In Japan, precious land isnt wasted and, on the outskirts ofcities and towns, its oftenimpossible to tell whether onehas reached suburbia or is stilltraversing the back-of-beyond.

Reminders that this is a volcanic nation poke frommountainous terrain as well asfrom flatter ground nowheremore dramatically than at oftensnow-capped Mt Fuji, Japans best-known tourist attractionand a nationally revered peak.

From subterranean volcanicrumblings, hot springs by thethousand bubble to the surfaceall over the country. Known asonsen and often in super-scenicsettings, these thermalphenomena have changed Japanese behaviour strikingly.

Seek out

naturesbountiesFrom hiking and diving, ski slopes andtropical getaways, this country isnt allabout city life, writesChris Pritchard

COUNTRY CHARMS: Yoshinoyama in NaraPrefecture, has been famousfor its cherry blossoms forcenturies (main); and highsnow in Hokkaido (below).Pictures: Thinkstock, istock

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Australia), most visitors aredetermined to sample Japanese dishes.

Japan has a reputation of being expensive but currencyfluctuations ensure that eatingout costs roughly the same as inMelbourne or Sydney.

Mind-blowingly expensiveeateries exist but theyreeasily avoided.

Unplanned strolls down sidestreets are a great way to

discover unpretentiousdining gems.

Whats more, Japanese cities areamong the worldssafest for on-foot

exploration.Look for restaurants

with red lanterns hangingoutside. Theyre generally though not always

that includes a solitaryconcession to local cuisine incountries where it operates.

Western-style fast food andrestaurants featuring foreignfare are thick on the ground in Japan. (French restaurants areparticularly popular in Tokyo.)

While this may comforttourists nervous about tryingunfamiliar (who perhaps shun Japanese food in

T HE offer is well-meaning so it seemschurlish to refuse aproffered bite.

Try it, suggests my friend.Its an ebiburger.

I wrap my lips around it,chewing off a chunk

convincing myself its research and stifling an urge tocomplain I hadnt come to Japan to eat burgers.

My friend, meantime, istelling everyone that she loves Japanese food even thoughher only exposure has beenthe ebiburger.

Ebiburgers are based onpatties containing prawnmeat (ebi is Japanese forprawn) and are the sole Japanese-influencedoffering at outlets of aglobal fast-food chain

Theres more toenjoy than sushiDont be afraid to try out the various traditional dishesavailable you may receive many a tasty surprise inyour explorations, writesChris Pritchard

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again with regional variations that include pork, beef or fishmore commonly than lamb.

Surprisingly, perhaps, curryis popular in Japan overwhelmingly for lunch.

Introduced by British tradersin the 1800s, it caught on.However, the Japanese adaptedit. Their version, while clearly acurry, is much milder thanthose in India, Thailand orelsewhere in Asia.

Japanese-style breakfastsare often the most difficult dishfor visitors to enjoy. Thesegenerally comprise steamedrice, miso soup and a varyingarray of side dishes includinggrilled or steamed fish,tamagoyaki (a type of omelet),tsukemono (pickled vegetables), nori (driedseaweed) and natto (soya beansafter fermentation).

Its natto against which the

Western palate sometimesrebels. However, Westerners who find it tasty insistperseverance is the key.

Accompaniments for Japanese dishes at lunch ordinner are commonly beer (of which Japan has several good brands and craft brews aremaking inroads) or sake, a spiritdistilled from rice.

Many types of sake exist, with local enthusiasts oftenarguing late into the nightabout the alleged superiority ofone over another.

called lunch boxes)commonly contain sushi,sashimi, pickles, several otherdishes and rice and aremodestly priced choices to takehome or munch on train trips.

Theyre sold at shops in trainstations and also from trolleysin the train carriages.

The boxes themselves rangefrom mass-produced cardboardto beautiful lacquer containersused in upscale restaurants.

Apart from sushi andsashimi, a Japanese favourite isramen (noodles with meat, vegetables or tofu andsometimes with dried seaweed)served in large steaming bowls.Ramen is a meal in itself.

Many regional variationsexist, including Hokkaidosmiso ramen, much in demandthroughout the country andshowcasing a decent dollop ofmiso paste.

Hugely popular with budget-conscious visitors is omurice(omelets filled with, or on top of,fried rice). Many versions exist(only the omelet is standard)and some restaurants specialisein different types of omurice.

Whether your search is foromurice or other dishes,remember that restaurantscommonly feature windowdisplays photographs orplastic replicas of whatthey serve.

Many Japanese dishes areessentially toppings on rice

inexpensive, as are izakaya(cheap-and-cheerful wateringholes with draught beer, shortmenus and a choice of seats atthe bar or at tables).

Fish and other seafood major components of Japanesediets are arguably the worlds freshest.

The fish markets arethemselves tourist attractions particularly the worlds biggest,Tokyos 24ha Tsukiji.

But get up early: Tsukijiopens at 5am and the daysaction is over by 11am. And watch out for the market areasmany heavily laden forklifts.

Restaurants in the marketand surrounding lanes areexcellent for fish-based fare.

Theyre also a reminder thatsushi (vinegar-flavoured rice with seafood, fish or vegetables)and sashimi (thinly sliceduncooked fish or other seafood, with tuna exceptionallypopular) are Japanese staples.

Bento boxes (sometimes

TASTY TRADITION: (clockwise from main) Freshingredients are the key toJapanese dishes; a sashimiset in a Japanese restaurant;

children enjoy a Japanesemeal; and a sushi selectionusually features several typesof seafood.

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through, bowing to passengersas they leave each carriage.

Trolley-pushing vendorsstop at seats to sell snacks anddrinks and also bow beforeleaving carriages.

The carriages themselves, besides being spotlessly clean,are very comfortable. Theyresimilar to aircraft economysections but with muchmore legroom.

I fall into conversation withan English-speaking

businessman. He tells me heshuns slower trains. On someroutes, flying is an option but

theres the time and cost ofgetting to and from airports.The shinkansen delivers me tothe middle of cities.

People say theyreexpensive and they are. But itscheaper than flying.

I meet a holidayingAustralian family on an Osakastation platform. Theyveenjoyed three shinkansen trips describing them as enjoyable,efficient and super-fast.

They were the best train journeys weve ever had, themother gushes.

On another journey, wetravel alongside a freeway Iknow well. Road traffic usuallymoves swiftly along it. But, frominside the shinkansen, it seemsto be crawling. Thats because

were going so fast.But you wouldnt know it.

The ride is smooth and theresno sensation of speeding.

Ticket inspectors wander

view of Japans supreme naturalattraction, Mt Fuji.

An active volcano and Japans highest mountain, MtFuji is deemed sacred byfollowers of the Shinto andBuddhist faiths. Mind you, I waslucky. You dont always get tosee elusive Mt Fuji on this traintrip. Its sometimes hidden bycloud or pollution.

researchers find Australiansoften want bullet train ridesincluded on holiday itineraries.

Shinkansen can be a windowto Japans most memorablesights. For instance, speedingfrom Tokyo to Osaka. I gazethrough the window nearShin-Fuji station, just under45 minutes from Tokyo andthere it is: a picture-postcard

Workers are hurriedlysweeping, wiping and dusting and rotating seats to thedirection of travel.

Its a well-oiled, time-sensitive procedure. Thecleaners alight, allowingpassengers to board. The train

leaves on time, as youd expect.Doors in Japan dont re-open ifyou skip down the steps a fewseconds late.

Bullet trains, known asshinkansen (a word also used inEnglish) and operated by Japans main rail companies,link many cities at speeds of upto 320km/h.

On the Osaka-Tokyo route, between Japans two biggestcities, up to 13 shinkansen anhour operate.

More than 150 million trips ayear are taken and

W ITH 10 minutes tospare, I strolltowards an Osaka-Tokyo bullet train.

As I board, an old man tugs my jacket and pleads in brokenEnglish: Do not get onthis train.

Its as if Ive stumbled into Murder On the Orient Express and hes trying to save me fromsome hideous death.

Why not? I stammernervously.

The train, he explains, is very dirty. Please dont geton now.

The cleanliness of Japanesetrains has impressed me so hisobservation is puzzling until I belatedly spot signs (in Japanese and English)advising passengers not to board during cleaning.

Take a fast

ride to funSpeedy and convenient shinkansencan make inter-city trips a breeze,writes Chris Pritchard

SWIFT PROGRESS: A bullettrain passes Mt Fuji betweenTokyo and Osaka.Picture: Thinkstock

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SOAK IT UP: Traditionalonsen may have started asoutdoor facilities but modernones can be found insidehotels and resorts.Pictures: Thinkstock

JAPAN SPECIAL HOT SPRINGS

How to

survive atan onsen

T HREE Australian women are boilingmad when Iencounter them in ahotel lobby. Weve beenthrown out of the bathhouse,one steams.

Over a cooling drink, itemerges that the incident

wasnt as serious as theydimplied. This storm in a

Japanese teacup, a culturalmisunderstanding, was abouttheir tattoos.

Staff had spotted theirlarge tattoos but decided that,

because they were foreigners,they wouldnt be ejected.Instead, theyd be politelyasked to don oversizedT-shirts supplied by theonsen. But, feelingdiscriminated against, the triostormed out angrily.

Tattoos are taboo in many bathing establishmentsknown as onsen (whichmeans hot springs and isalso used in English).

Body art is associated with yakuza gangsters (Japans

version of the mafia).However, these daysexceptions are made for smallfashion tattoos.

This Australian group,sporting fearsome-lookingtigers and long-fanged snakeson their torsos, didnt qualify.

On islands from north tosouth, this volcanic Asiannation boasts hot springsaplenty. Mineral-rich water bubbles to the surface and wherever it does, onsenestablishments thrive.

These range from tiny businesses to large adjuncts totheme parks accommodatinghundreds of people.

Onsen are an importantcomponent of the Japaneselifestyle. Many centuries ago,most onsen were outdoors and a minority still are.

Few urban hotels are without an onsen these days an amenity often located inthe basement. Some donthave access to a subterraneansupply and instead rely onregular water supplies.

At onsen in far-flung rural villages, facilities aresometimes mixed and you seefamilies soaking together.

But any onsen on a typicaltourists itinerary will have

separate pools and changingfacilities for men and women.

An onsen has several pools,commonly round and as big asswimming pools, withtemperatures ranging from

tepid to extremely hot.Because this is Japan,

etiquette is strictly followed.Onsen sometimes

referred to as bath houses dont exist to enhancepersonal hygiene but a bonusis that youll be squeaky clean by the time you leave.

Theyre venues of escapefrom day-to-day worries places of quiet, contemplativesoaking. Conversation, evenamong people who are goodfriends, is minimal.

Its not done to bring alongyour own music. Anddefinitely leave your ghetto- blaster at home.

Users place clothing inlockers (wearing bathrobes ifcoming from a hotel room inthe same building or complex) before wandering, naked, tothe showers.

The idea is to come clean

before you hit the pool.An Australian resident of

Japan, an onsen aficionado,reveals her technique.

I keep an eye on any Japanese woman who arrivesat the showers around thesame time as I do . I washmyself very thoroughly but ifshe keeps soaping herself, I dothe same. Only after she exitsto go to a pool, where soap is

banned, do I leave myshower, she explains.

Etiquette dictates thateach person carries a small,facecloth-sized white towel(your own, one supplied bythe onsen or one broughtfrom your hotel room).

This little towel mustnt beplaced in the pool. Men oftenfold it into neat quarters andplace it on their heads; womenand some men place it behindthem at the edge of the pool.

Follow the etiquette at thesetraditional establishments oryou may end up in hot water,writes Chris Pritchard .

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