january2011 - Slot Techslot-tech.com/members/magazine/lores/january11.pdf · Page 6-IGT Dynamic...

January 2011Slot Tech Magazine

Randy Fromm's

Slot Tech Magazine

EditorRandy Fromm

Technical WritersDean Auger, James Borg,

Vic Fortenbach, ChuckLentine, Craig Nelson,Kevin Noble, Herschel

Peeler, Pat Porath

Slot Tech Magazine is publishedmonthly bySlot Tech Magazine1944 Falmouth Dr.El Cajon, CA 92020-2827tel.619.593.6131 fax.619.593.6132e-mail [email protected] the website at slot-techs.com

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Subscribe online atslot-techs.com

Copyright 2010 under the UniversalCopyright Convention. All rights re-served.

Slot Tech Maga-zine

January 2011

Inside Slot Tech Magazine

Page 4-EditorialPage 6-IGT Dynamic ButtonsPage 12-Aristocrat Builds a Better Button DeckPage 18-Quick & Simple Repairs #70Page 23-Touchscreen TFT from LumexPage 24-Nice Place to WorkPage 25-Advantech-Innocore’s DPX-S415, DPX-S425Page 26-Subscription Form

Randy Fromm

Randy Fromm - Publisher

TechFest 22Mystic Lake Casino

May 2011

Dear Friends,

This year, 2011, celebrates our tenth year in publication.They say most startups fail in the first two years so when2003 came and went with the presses still rolling, I wasconfident the magazine would survive as long as I continuedto receive contributions from you, the folks that staff the slotdepartments of casinos around the world. After all, I am justthe publisher. I may be an electronics nutcase but I don’twork at a casino every day. I depend on working slot techs tocontinue to contribute top quality material to the magazine.

And you’ll have to agree that we have some really greatcontributors. I first met Pat Porath at a regional slot techclass I held at his casino. I’m sure neither of us everthought that he would ending up holding the record for theshear number of technical articles he has written (70 todate). Canada’s Kevin Noble has been with me for manyyears as well and is now a popular technical instructor aswell as technical writer and full-time slot tech. I am ex-tremely pleased (as I am sure are you) with the recentcontributions from both Craig Nelson and Chuck Lentine. Ihave read and re-read Chuck’s December article (the oneabout the WMS Bluebird that catches fire due to a short inthe wire loom) six times now. Craig’s premier offerings arejust superbly educational and I love his photo illustrations.

Of course, the advertisers make it all possible by paying thebills so please, buy a few new chairs from Gary Platt, ordersome 3M touch screens, CCFLs or other replacement partsfrom Suzo-Happ, Patriot or AG&E, order your new slot ma-chines with FutureLogic Printers, get some Kortek parts orhave something fixed at CasinoTech when you’re pressed fortime and, if you’re in Las Vegas, stop by and say hello to thenice folks at Kiesub Electronics. Oh, and don’t forget toorder some Slot Tickets!

Slot Tech MagazineJanuary 2011


Slot Tech Feature Article

IGT developed an OLED(Organic Light EmittingDiode) Button System

around 2008. Their objec-tive was to anticipate thedemands of the consumerfor more efficient game

conversions and systembased (server based) gam-ing. They called their ver-sion a “Dynamic Button”but it follows the sametechnology as others suchas the WMS OLED Button(Slot Tech Magazine, No-vember 2010).

The visual result for theplayer is virtually the sameamongst the numerousOLED Button Systems.

However, the way they getto that point is entirelydifferent. In this article,the IGT Dynamic OLEDButton Panel System willbe outlined. Potential prob-lems will be highlighted,how to repair those prob-lems and, most impor-tantly, where and how toget the parts. The systemconsists of these main parts(see below):

IGT Dynamic ButtonsBy Craig Nelson

Figure 1

Figure 2


‘MLVDS’ standsfor Multi-PointLow VoltageDifferential Sig-naling and ‘SMLC’stands for SerialMotor and LightController. TheMLVDS (thelower board) getsits power sourcefrom the bellydoor powersource on thebackplane board.It can plug intoeither J39 or J40port. The SMLC (the upperboard) gets it power from theMLVDS. It should be notedthat these boards appear tobe fairly stable in the field.

The main issues you aregoing to find in the field withthis system are drink spills,the Flex Cable, and theDynamic Buttons them-selves.

Note: Whenever performingwork on these button sys-tems you should have themachine power off. Youshould use proper ESD miti-gation practices as thesedevices are sensitive tostatic discharge.

If you come upon a singlebutton that is not lit up, youshould start by opening upthe machine and checkingthe flex cable connection tothe button. When your cashcount team goes through andremoves the stackers, theyoften bump the connectionsmaking the button inoper-able. In worse cases, theconnectors are broken andeither the button or the flexneeds to be repaired orreplaced.

The second thing you shouldcheck for is evidence of adrink spill; this is the mostcommon cause for these

buttons to go bad. In somecases you can take the but-ton out, clean the connec-tions then let it dry to get itto work (this will be coveredlater). If there is evidence ofa drink spill you shouldremove theparts that areaffected andinspect them fordamage. If theFlex Cableconnector isfried, you willmost likely haveto replace thewhole cable. Ifthe button is fried, you willhave to replace the button.It is very unlikely that eitherof these parts can be re-paired in the field. Cleaningand drying would be virtuallythe only potential solutionoutside of replacement.

To remove the button youwill need to perform thefollowing procedure (refer tofigure 3):

1. Turn off game power anduse ESD practices.2. Pull up on Flex Cableconnector (there are twotabs on top you have to pushtowards each other). Becareful not to damage theFlex Cable.3. Unscrew the plastic but-ton nut while holding the

button from the bottom.

You will be left with thesepieces in your hand: TheOLED Button itself, theplastic nut, and the plasticspacer/housing. You will

now need to determine if thebutton can be salvaged bycleaning or if the buttonneeds to be replaced. Ifcleaning is your option thenproceed to the next section.If replacing is your optionthen retrieve a button andreplace it using samemethod as removal but re-verse the instructions.

To clean a Dynamic Button/Harness (this only applies tothe IGT style): 1. Turn thegame power off and use ESDpractices. 2. Use a rag toclean off any excess liquidthat may still be in the ma-chine. 3. Use a small finebrush (such as the “acidbrush” shown) with plainwater to clean off the con-nectors and Flex Cable.


4. To clean the button hous-ing, IGT suggests using a 10ml syringe to push waterdown through the housingrepeatedly to get any liquidresidue (dry or wet) out.Obviously if the liquid resi-due is dry you will have torepeat the steps more than ifthe drink spill is fresh.

Depending on theseverity of the soilingof the button assem-bly, you might have toremove all buttonsand the harness andrinse them all off in afaucet until you getthem clean. Remem-ber you do not wantto use any solvents toclean these buttons;just plain water willbe fine.

Before installing backin the machine, youwill need to dry allparts very well. Lowair pressure will helpin the drying processbut be careful not touse too much pres-sure as it coulddamage the connec-tors and Flex Cable.

When the button is drying besure to lay the button on itsside (not lens side down) asthis could let liquid leak intothe lens and ruin the displaycompletely. The Flex Cable(if removed to clean) shouldbe placed connector sidedown so liquid does not pool

into the bottom of the con-nector or lay in the mini-board.

If the parts are still stickyjust repeat the above stepsuntil you get a clean systemof parts.

Once you are satisfied thatyou have successfullycleaned the whole system,you can now reassemble allparts that were removed.Remember to use correctESD practices while han-dling these parts as they arestatic sensitive.

Upon powering up the but-tons they should all light upand display the firmwareversion that they are utiliz-ing. If you see a blank but-ton you will need to power offthe machine and check yourconnections. Do not hot pluganything other than the USB

or HDMI connectionsas it could damagemultiple components.

Tech Note: You theSlot Tech are going tohave to evaluate on acase by case basiswhether or not you willneed to remove certainparts in order to cleanthem. However, takingshortcuts and trying toclean parts while leftin the machine couldlead to other troublesin the future. It issuggested that eachproperty have an en-

tire spare panel to swap intothe machine, this way thedamaged panel can be exten-sively cleaned before it isreturned into circulation.

This button system will onlywork with the AVP 14 Familyor higher operating systemsoftware. If you are lookingto retro fit any of theseparts, you will need to per-form theme update and/oran operating system/bootchip update. Talk to yoursales rep for specific infor-mation for your jurisdictionas this might change fromplace to place and fromsystem to system.

- Craig [email protected]

Here is a breakdown of theparts covered in this section:

* 75401300W MLVDS – CPU to OLED – IGT $210.00* 75514700W SMLC – SERIAL MOTOR/LIGHT CONTROLLER – IGT $330.00* 76301600W FLEX CABLE 10 DYNAMIC BUTTON – IGT $143.33* 76301200W FLEX CABLE 15 DYNAMIC BUTTON – IGT Obsolete* 75805100W HDMI to FLEX PC BOARD – IGT $54.75* 51801000 BUTTON DYNAMIC – IGT $98.00* 91780503 KIT DYNAMIC PANEL – IGT 390.00

Disclaimer: This docu-ment is an overview ofthe IGT Dynamic OLEDButton System opera-tion. Please refer toyour field representa-tive for specifics in yourjurisdiction.


“OK. You asked and I listened. My new tech class eliminates obsolete CRTmonitor repair and the associated monitor repair lab. In just four or five days,your slot techs can learn to repair Power Supplies, LCD Monitors, TicketPrinters, Bill Validators and more. It’s easy and it’s fun.“- Randy Fromm


Slot Tech Opinion

Aristocrat Builds aBetter Button Deck

By Randy Fromm

As a boy growing up inSouthern California, Ispent a 1ot of time in

the Mojave Desert. Actually,I still do. It’s a wonderfullyinteresting place, full ofanimals, vegetables andminerals, the latter beingmy special interest. I justlove minerals and, in theMojave, you can find someunique and interestingspecimens. One of our“home boy” minerals issomething known as Ulex-ite. It’s basically a mixtureof boron-there is a lot ofboron in nearby DeathValley where I also havespent a great deal of time.Are you old enough toremember “20 Mule TeamBorax” and the “DeathValley Days” televisionprogram hosted by noneother than Ronald Regan?That’s where it’s from-sodium, calcium, hydrogenand oxygen. I have a speci-men of Ulexite (pictured)that I’ve owned for about 50years. I’ve had it since I wasa boy. It’s probably myoldest possession.

What’s so special aboutUlexite and what does ithave to do with the Aristo-crat button deck? Well, I’mglad you asked (you didask, didn’t you?). Ulexite

has an optical property thatmakes it unique amongminerals. It’s a natural,coherent fiber-optic bundle.You can see in the photo-graph below, the parallelfibers that comprise thespecimen. Each of thesefibers behaves in exactlythe same way as the fiber-optics with which we arefamiliar in the casino in-dustry. Light shines in oneend, internally reflects offthe inside wall and spitsout the other end. In Ulex-ite, there are thousands of

parallel fibers per squareinch, each one is tightlylocked together with itsneighbors and they alltransmit light. As a result,if you cut a piece of Ulexitewith parallel faces and


polish them, the mineralwill not only transmit lightbut it will also transfer animage from one polishedface to the other. If youplace the Ulexite on a flatsurface, the appearance orimage that is on the surfaceof the object seems to jumpto the surface of the Ulex-ite! It almost looks like thetop surface of the Ulexite isa TV screen. In fact, it’soften sold as “TV Rock” innovelty stores or rockshops. Flash-forward to thepresent and the nice, flatscreen of an LCD monitor.Ifyou place the Ulexite onthe surface of a display, theimage REALLY pops to thesurface of the Ulexite as thedisplay generates its ownlight rather than passingthe ambient light first downand then back up the fi-bers.

Fast-forward from my child-hood to the present andimagine my surprise when Isee “artificial Ulexite” show-ing up in a slot machine!It’s a brilliant answer to thedilemma facing manufac-turers of server-based slotmachines, namely, how doyou handle the issue ofchanging button legends?In a server-based game, wewant to be able to make agame conversion withouthaving to touch the ma-chine to replace the pro-gram. Likewise, the game’sartwork is changed as well,with an LCD monitor re-placing the traditional,static marquis. So whywould we want to mess withchanging the legends onthe buttons? The answer is,we don’t! We want to beable to change the legends

ad hoc, without touchingthe buttons.

There is no such thing as“traditional” thinking hereas this is all new but it’spretty easy to imagine thatone way to do it is to makeeach button a tiny display.After all, small displaysaren’t anything new. I’mpretty sure you have one inyour pocket or purse onyour cell phone. Justmount a display on eachand every button and wirethem all up for power andvideo signal (don’t forgetthe switch contacts them-selves) or use USB to do itall and oh, by the way,you’d better ruggedize thehell out of the thing ‘causeplayers are going to mashthose buttons with all theirstrength and gee, I’d rathernot have to pay a hundred

bucks for a frickin’button, ifyou don’t mind.

That sort of seems to be theway things are headed ingaming, anyway. Gamesmanhad samples of OLED but-tons they began showing afew years ago. Pretty neat.Each button was a mono-chromatic display with

Artificial Ulexite

Cont. Pg 16

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something like 64X64resolution (sorry, I can’trecall exactly) but theywere sure expensive, espe-cially in comparison to atraditional button assem-bly.

In this month’s issue, youjust read about the IGTDynamic Button system.Again, individual buttonsare used, each with its ownlittle OLED display. Theylook like the Gamesmanbuttons. I’m guessingthey’re just as expensive.

In the November 2010 issueof Slot Tech Magazine, wecovered the button assem-bly used in the WMS ma-chine (actually manufac-tured by a company called“Esterline Advanced InputSystems”) that can be acostly alternative to a con-ventional button deck whenthere is a major failure.

The Alternative

As LCD displays have be-come a mature technology,we’re seeing some reallynovel uses in slot ma-chines. Aruze pioneeredthe “Transmissive Reels”concept that places a TFTsans opaque backplanebetween the player and thereels. Of course, no modernslot machine would becomplete without a little“player tracking” displaythat is becoming/has be-come so much more.

But this onereally caught meby surprise withthe cleverness ofit. Talk aboutyour “out of thebox” thinking,this actuallymade me standup and applaudwhen I first readabout it: Replacethe plastic insertof the but-ton with apiece ofthis artifi-cial Ulexite(I don’tknow if ithas a REALname. Ifanyoneknows . . .)and a lens assembly andhave the optical inserts ofALL of the buttons restingon the surface of ONE,totally normal LCD displaywith ONE, totally normalvideo signal powered byONE, totally normal powersupply. BRILLIANT! Differ-ent areas of the display aremapped for the differentbuttons. Any button, activeor inactive, can be display-ing virtually anything. Itdoesn’t have to be words. Itcan display symbols, im-ages, animations or even

full-motion, full-color video.The actual button mecha-nism is totally separatefrom the display, of course.

Another bonus is in therefresh rates. With indi-vidual displays, the CPUmust go out and talk toeach one in turn. As thenumber of buttons in-creases, refresh rates cansuffer tremendously, caus-ing a noticeable flicker inthe displays and makingany attempt at “video”primitive, at best. This,


Push Button Parts

Replace Push button LED

Step Description

1. Position the lens inside the bezel.

2. From the top of the button panel, fit thebezel and lens through the hole.

3. Gently press the body into the bezel untilthe four tangs clip into place securing thebezel, lens, and body together.

4. Place the cover over the body and thensecure to the button panel with two screws.

5. Connect the harness to the bush button.

however, is a normal moni-tor so it can display any-thing at a normal refreshrate of 60Hz.

At this time, Aristocrat isusing this new button deckin their new Verve cabinet.As such, the button panelis only available for partici-pation games so casinotechnicians will likely notbe working on it at thistime. Regardless, it is the

opinion of the author thatthis system (one display,conventional button signal-ing) is far superior to that ofhaving a myriad of tinylittle display/buttons, allsharing a single, serial bus.

If Slot Tech Magazine hadsome sort of award for engi-neering slot machine sub-assemblies (the covetedSub-Ass Award?) I wouldnominate THIS. - STM



WMS Bluebird“Door Open D”

After replacing anIthaca 850 in a Bluebird, and when the

game was finished bootingup, a “door open D” ap-peared on the screen. Thisgame was an upright gameand did not have a switchon the drop door, so howcould it show open? Somegames have an extra switchthat could be used to placeon the drop door that islocated near the bottom ofthe game. Not only have Iseen this on some Blue-birds, but also some Aristo-crat games. I located thecherry switch, pushed it into have an OPEN status,then pulled it out to showCLOSED. When I looked atthe screen, the “door openD” was gone and the gamewas ready to be played.

Quick Simple Repairs # 70

Bally 6000 Slant Top

The problem I just men-tioned reminded me of aBally 6000 slant top that Irecently had a problemwith. If I remember cor-rectly an error code 54wouldn’t clear. As I laterfound, the drop door actu-ally did have a cherryswitch on it and the lockpaddle was a little loose.This caused the switch toshow OPEN and give theerror code. After the lockwas tightened, the errorcleared and the game wasready for play.

WMS Bluebird-UBA NoPower

A call was received that amachine had a bill accep-tor problem. I reseatedthe UBS but I didn’t hearthe unit “cycle.” As Ilooked closer, thereweren’t any lights thatwere lit in the front of thebill acceptor. I reseated itagain but the same thinghappened, no power. Pinswere checked inside ofthe UBA connector andthey looked OK. Next, thecable running to the unitwas looked at. Somehow,

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Repair Monitors, Power Supplies, Gameboards?Repair Monitors, Power Supplies, Gameboards?

the Molex connector hadbecome loose. It is locateddirectly behind the UBA onan upright Bluebird. Powerwas turned off and Iplugged in the connectorall the way, then turnedthe game back on. Rightaway I had lights on the billacceptor that indicatedpower, and it “cycled” cor-rectly. It was simply a caseof a loose power connector.On a WBA when facing thefront, take a look on theright hand side and look fortwo small red lights. Thiswill indicate whether theunit has power or not. Nolights, no power.

Bluebird and Bluebird 2 -Main Door Switch UpgradeKit

We have had a few maindoor switch problems withupright Bluebirds andBluebird 2s. We have alsohad a few belly door switchproblems too, and I’ll get tothat. I recently read thatWMS has an “upgrade kit”available for the main doorswitch on the Bluebird andBluebird 2. Games madeafter March 31st on thisyear already had the kitinstalled. Games madeprior to March 2010 mayneed to have the kit in-stalled. The kit part num-ber is KIT-027544-00-00.Slot attendants receive callsfrom the surveillance de-partment if a game hasnumerous “illegal doors.”Illegal doors means that theslot door is showing anopen status without anemployee nearby and their

card in the game. Some-times surveillance or a slotattendant will call a tech ifa game keeps coming upwith a lot of false dooropens. 99.5% of the timethe game is still locked andsecure; it is only a switch orswitch mechanism problem.The upgrade kit availablewill do the trick for maindoor switches.

What about a belly doorswitch problem on an up-right Bluebird? In the pastI’ve written to tighten thesmall studs located on themain door so the belly doorlatches better. After time itseems the small studs (thatdoesn’t sound good...howabout...) the small doorpins (lol) become loose andthe latch has a bit of playwhich in turn may trip thebelly door switch to causean OPEN status. Instead oftightening the pins, remove

them and apply “LOC-TITE”on the treads, then put thepins back in. This proce-dure will prevent them fromcoming loose. (Wish I couldtake credit for the idea, butit goes to WMS gaming.) Atthe casino that I work at,“LOC-TITE” is also put onthe 7/16 nut (small nut) onsome of the locks. Thisprevents them from comingloose.

We recently installed 10“Bluebird XD” games. Ittook a little time to figureout how to install the maindoor lock on the first game.“LOC-TITE” was put on thelocks to prevent them fromcoming loose too. It couldalso be used on drop doorlocks (for slots that still usecoin, we only have threecoin games out of around1407.) LOC-TITE Blue 242Threadlocker is the onethat we use.


IGT AVP and or Trimline“Temperature Error”

As a reminder, when IGTgames that have a“brainbox” installed such asan AVP and or Trimline,and they have “temperatureout of range” or if the gameis rebooting itself, the firstthing to look at is the cool-ing fan on the video cardand the air filter. I’ve seenquite a few of the fans sim-ply die. What if the gamehas a good fan AND the airfilter appears clean, and itstill has issues? On someIGTs they use two metalscreens to filter out debrisbefore it gets to the filter. Ifthe game has problems andboth the internal and exter-nal fans are working, alongwith a clean air filter, checkto see if the screens areobstructed. If they are fullof dust, it will restrict air-flow and raise the tempera-ture of the brainbox. Toomuch heat and it will notfunction properly. Theinner metal screen may beremoved from the game somore airflow can reach thebrainbox. The part numberof the screen, also knownas a grill, is 13014402W.From what I read, IGT rec-ommends to clean thebrainbox air filters every 90days. Periodic maintenanceof the screen and filter willhelp the game to be“COOL.”

IGT Video Slant TopPower Problem

To me, the problem lookedlike a main power supply

problem. It looked like themain incoming 110vac linewent to the power supply,then to a distribution area,and to the rest of the game.I was wrong, it sure did notwork that way. With thepower switch turned in theON position all I had was“no signal” on both theupper and lower LCDs, andauxiliary power for theOasis Sentinal. That was

about it. To the upper righthand side of the powersupply I had two LEDs thatindicated power too. Every-thing else, such as thegame interior light, the billacceptor door light, and thebrain box lights were alldead.

A co-worker also came upwith the conclusion thatthe power supply was bad.


We didn’t have any sparesso three were ordered. Afterwe received them I grabbedone and installed it. (Prettyeasy to install, only a hand-ful of connectors along withone Phillips type screw.)Power was turned on andthe same darn thinghapped as it did with theoriginal unit: a power prob-lem.

Now what? Was the replace-ment power supply bad orwas there another issuethat was going on? I know Ishould have but didn’t atthe time, I swapped powersupplies with a known goodone next door. Once againthe power was turned ONand no juice.

Now it is NOT a bad powersupply even though to me,everything pointed to it as ifit were bad. To the upperright hand side it looks likea “power distribution” boardthat has some fuses on it,along with another boardwith some fuses on it nearthe brain box. All of thefuses were checked and allwere good.

Next, I checked and re-checked connections. Theylooked good too. In thepast, I’ve seen a changelight that was shorted takedown a game and not allowit to boot up. Also, I’ve seena bad UBA take down agame. So, it was time tostart disconnecting things.The ticket printer, bill ac-ceptor, change light, billdoor florescent light ballast,the lower LCD removed,

and the upper powersupply for the upperLCD were all discon-nected (along with themain power cord un-plugged from the powersupply). The main powercord was plugged backin and the switch wasturned back on onceagain. STILL nothing,the same original prob-lem was still there.

At this point I was run-ning out of ideas andfast. One of the fewthings that wasn’tlooked at or discon-nected was the brainbox. It was reseated andI didn’t notice anythingwrong. This time I took itcompletely out of thegame to look it over.After it was fully re-moved from the game, Isaw that the power con-nector was half pushedin on one side. The coverwas taken off and it wassnapped back into place.Once the brainbox re-paired and put back intothe game, the powerswitch was turned onAGAIN. Presto! The gamehad life in it again and Ihad a heartbeat! Evenwith quite a few itemsdisconnected, I still hadlights that lit up on thebrainbox and I couldhear the cooling fansspinning, which I didnot have before. Powerwas turned off and themain power cord wasremoved from the powersupply and all the itemsthat had been discon-


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nected, I reconnected. Nowfor last time (maybe) powerwas turned back on. Every-thing looked beautiful. Thegame booted up awesomeand looked great. Finallythe game was back online.

IGT “i-Game Door OpenM”

We needed a part numberfor an armrest on an IGTslant top i-Game. I lookedonline without much suc-cess. As I later found out,the armrest is technicallycalled a bolster (the fancyname for it, I guess). Thatcould be why my search onIGT.com didn’t work out sowell. I was looking for “arm-rest” not “bolster.” If someof the armrests on the floorare looking a bit worn, theIGT part number is62567200W. These arephysically different thanthe S plus and S2000 ones.

I had to take the armrest offthe game to get the partnumber, and when I put itback on there was a dooropen M that wouldn’t clear.How many switches and oroptics on an i-game couldcause a door open M? Theanswer is six. Number oneis the top door, number twowould be the hopper door,three would be the billacceptor access door, num-ber four is the main dooroptic, five would be themain door cherry switch,and number six would bethe cherry switch under the“coin in blocking plate.” Theplate, where the coin-inassembly used to be,

needed to be removed toget access to the rest of thearmrest nuts. The top doorappeared to be secure, andthe bill acceptor doorswitch was tested andworked OK. Next, the maindoor optic was taken off soit could manually bealigned to the receive sideof the optic, and both themain door and hopper doorcherry switches were pulledin an upward position sothey would show a “closedstate.” I STILL had a dooropen M. Then I remem-bered the switch that wasunder the blocking plate.After it was removed, theswitch was in an OPENposition. It must have got-ten bumped or something,so it was pulled upward tobe in the CLOSED position.All of the doors (hopper, billacceptor, and main doors)were closed once again andfinally the door open Mcleared.

- Pat [email protected]

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