Janome s3023 manual - Toews Sewing · 2018-04-23 · controller free from accumulation of lint,...

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Janome S-3023 Instruction Manual

Janome S-3023 Instruction Manual Janome sewing machine

www.toews.com S-3023 Owners Manual/ User Guide

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IMPORTANT SAFETYINSTRUCTIONS

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) withreduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience andknowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerninguse of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with thissewing machine.

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should alwaysbe followed, including the following:

This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for household use only.

Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER— To reduce the risk of electric shock:1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always

unplug this sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately afterusing and before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb. Replace bulbwith same type rated 15 Watts.

WARNING— To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when thissewing machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this ownerʼsmanual.Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as containedin this ownerʼs manual.

3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord orplug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped ordamaged, or dropped into water.Return this sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer orservice center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanicaladjustment.

4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked.Keep ventilation openings of this sewing machine and footcontroller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.6. Do not use outdoors.7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used

or where oxygen is being administered.8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“O”) position, then

remove plug from outlet.9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not

the cord.10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is

required around the sewing machine needle.11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause

the needle to break.12. Do not use bent needles.13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the

needle causing it to break.14. Switch this sewing machine off (“O”) when making any

adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the needle,changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing thepresser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outletwhen removing covers, lubricating, or when making any otheradjustments mentioned in this ownerʼs manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

The design and specifications are subject to change without a prior notice.

Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycledin accordance with relevant National legislation relating toelectrical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact yourretailer for guidance. (European Union only)

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Do’s and Don’ts

1. Always be aware of the up-and-down movement of the needle and do not turn your attentionfrom the machine while it is running.

2. When leaving the sewing machine unattended, the main switch of the machine must be switched offor the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.

3. When servicing the sewing machine, or when removing covers or changing lamps, the machinemust be disconnected from the supply by removing the plug from the socket-outlet.

4. Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will start inadvertently, or thecontrol or motor may burn out.

5. The maximum permissible power for the sewing lamp bulb is 15 watts.

6. When using your sewing machine for the first time, place a piece of waste fabric under thepresser foot and run the machine without thread for a few minutes. Wipe away any oil whichmay have appeared.



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TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION I ESSENTIAL PART S

Names of Part s ........................................................................................... . 4~ 5 Foot Storage Compartment ............................................................................ . 6 Extension Table(Accessory Storage Box ) ...................................................... 7

SECTION II GETTING READY TO SE W

Connecting the Machine to the Power Suppl y ............................................... . 8 Foot Contro l .................................................................................................... . 9 Sewing Ligh t ................................................................................................... . 9 Pressure Dia l ................................................................................................ . 1 0 Dropping the Feed Dog s .............................................................................. . 1 0 T o Snap O n and Snap Off t he P re s er F oo t .................................................. . 1 1 To Detach and Attach the Foot Holde r ........................................................ . 1 2

Reverse Stitch Button .................................................................................... 13Seam Guide Line ........................................................................................... 13Changing Needle ........................................................................................... 14Thread and Needle Chart .............................................................................. 15Winding the Bobbin .................................................................................16~18

Drawing Up Bobbin Threa d .......................................................................... . 20 B alan c ing Needle T h r ead T en s io n ............................................................... . 2 1 P a tt e r n S ele ct o r Dia l .................................................................................... . 2 2 Z ig z ag W id t h Con tr o l .................................................................................... . 2 2 St i tc h Leng t h Con tr o l .................................................................................... . 2 2 Variable Needle Positio n .............................................................................. . 2 2

SECCTION III BASIC SEWIN G

Straight Stitch Sewin g .................................................................................. . 2 3 Changing t he Sewing Direc t ion s .................................................................. . 2 4 Straight Stitching on Heavy Fabric s ............................................................. . 2 4 Zigzag Stitc h ................................................................................................. . 2 5

SECCTION IV UTILITY STITCHIN G

Overcastin g ................................................................................................... . 2 5 Overedge Stitc h ............................................................................................ . 2 6 Tricot Stitc h ................................................................................................... . 2 6 Tr iple Str eng t h St i t i c h .................................................................................... 2 7 O u t line Str et c h St i t i c h .................................................................................... 2 7 Sewing Button s ............................................................................................. . 2 8 Automatic Buttonhol e ............................................................................. . 29~3 1 M anual B u tt onhol e .................................................................................. . 32 ~ 3 3 Corded Buttonhol e ........................................................................................ . 3 4 Zipper Applicatio n ................................................................................... . 35~3 7 Rolled He m ............................................................................................. . 38~3 9 Blind S t i tc h Hemmin g .................................................................................... 40

SECCTION V DECORATIVE STITCHIN G

De c o r a t i v e S a t in St i tc h P a tt e r n s .................................................................. . 4 1 Stretch Stitch Pattern s .................................................................................. . 4 1 A dju st ing Str e tc h St i t c h Ba lan c e ................................................................... 4 2 Sm ock in g ...................................................................................................... . 4 2 Q uil t in g .......................................................................................................... . 4 3 Pin Tuckin g ................................................................................................... . 4 4 Shell Tuc k ..................................................................................................... . 4 5 Fagotin g ........................................................................................................ . 4 5 Appliqu e ........................................................................................................ . 4 6 Patch Wor k ................................................................................................... . 4 6

SECCTION VI CARE OF YOUR MACHIN E

Cleaning the Bobbin Holde r ......................................................................... . 4 7 Cleaning the Hook Rac e .............................................................................. . 4 8 Inserting the Bobbin Holde r .......................................................................... . 4 8 Tr ouble S hoo t in g .................................................................................... . 49 ~ 50

Threading the Machine .................................................................................. 19

Finger guard ................................................................................................... 12



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SECTION I ESSENTIAL PARTS

Names of Parts

w

q

!3

!2

!4

!1

!0

o i u y t

r

e

!5

!6

!7!8

q Stitch length control

w Zigzag width control

e Bobbin winder stopper

r Bobbin winder spindle

t Foot storage compartment

y Flip-top sewing instruction panel

u Spool holder (large)

i Spool pin

o Top cover

!0 Thread tension dial

!1 Pressure dial

!2 Face plate

!3 Buttonhole lever

!4 Thread cutter

!5 Needle plate

!6 Hook cover plate

!7 Hook cover plate release button

!8 Extension table

(Accessory storage box)

!9 Reverse stitch button

!9



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5

@4

@2

@3

@5

@7@6

@8

@9

#0

#1

#2

@0 Thread take-up lever@1 Carrying handle@2 Handwheel@3 Clutch knob@4 Pattern selector dial@5 Feed balance dial@6 Power switch@7 Machine socket@8 Needle clamp screw@9 Drop feed lever#0 Free arm#1 Presser foot#2 Presser foot lifter

@1 @0



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q we

r

t

y

u

i

Foot Storage Compartment

Each presser foot and pocket is lettered for easyidentification and storage. To achieve optimumsewing results, use the foot recommended foreach sewing technique.

* The automatic buttonhole foot can be stored in theextension table.

Needle caseL. QuilterG. Blind stitch hem footD. Hemmer footC. Overedge footE. Zipper footB. Transparent buttonhole footA. Zigzag footR. Automatic buttonhole foot

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Extension Table (Accessory Storage Box)

Extension Table

The extension table provides added sewing surface and can be easilyremoved for free arm sewing.

For free arm sewing

Lift out the extension table, asillustrated .

For attaching the table

Position the two pins of thestorage box on the base slit andpush down gently.

Accessory storage box

Sewing accessoires are convenientlylocated under the extension table.

¡



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SECTION II GETTING READY TO SEW

Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply Before connecting the power, make sure the voltage and frequency of yourelectrical power conform to the machine.Switch off the power, fit the nonreversible plug into the machine socket andplug the machine into the power supply.Switch on the power.

Operating Instructions:The symbol "O" of a switch indicates the "off" position of a switch.For an appliance with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other):To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.If it does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

The foot controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 is used with this sewing machine (USA market only).

While in operation, always keep your eyes on the sewing area, and do nottouch any moving parts such as the thread take-up lever, handwheel or needle.

Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the power supply:- when leaving the machine unattended.- when attaching or removing parts.- when cleaning the machine.

Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will run intermittently.



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Foot Control

The sewing light is located behind theface plate.

[To replace the bulb](A) • To remove.........Turn to the left.

• To replace.........Turn to the right.(B) • To remove.........Push and twist to

the left.• To replace.........Push and twist to

the right.NOTE: When replacing the bulb, unplug

the machine.

Sewing Light

Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.The harder you press on the control, the faster themachine runs.



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Pressure Dial

The pressure dial should be set at “3” for regular sewing. Reducethe pressure to “2” for appliques.

Set the pressure to “1” when sewing chiffon, lace, organdy andother fine fabrics. Velours and knits with a lot of stretch may alsorequire a “1” setting.

Dropping the Feed Dogs

Drop feed lever is located underneath offree arm bed.

To raise the feeddogs, push thelever to thedirection of arrowas illustrated.

For dropping thefeed dogs, pushthe lever to thedirection of arrowas illustrated.

* Feed dogs must always be up for normal sewing.



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To Snap On and Snap Off the Presser Foot

To snap off

Turn the handwheel toward you toraise the needle to its highestposition. Raise the presser foot.

Press the lever on the back of thefoot holder.The presser foot will drop off.

When attaching the presser foot,the pressure dial should always beat position “3”.Place the presser foot so the pinon the foot lies just under thegroove of the foot holder.Lower the foot holder to lock thefoot in place.

The presser foot can be raisedhigher for additional clearance.

To snap on Additional Clearance



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To Detach and Attach the Foot Holder

To Detach

Remove the setscrewby turning the screwcounter-clockwise withthe screwdriver.

To Attach

Align the hole in the footholder with the threadedhole in the presser bar andfit the foot holder screw intothe hole. Tighten the screwby turning it clockwise.

To Detach

For your safety, the machine isequipped with the finger guard.

Raise the foot.Loosen the foot holder setscrewand remove the finger guard.Tighten the setscrew.

To Attach

Raise the foot.Loosen the foot holder setscrew andattach the finger guard to the footholder.Tighten the setscrew lightly and lowerthe foot.Push the finger guard down to theneedle plate and tighten the setscrewfirmly.

Finger Guard

*

Finger guard is not illustrated on other pages.

*



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1520

5/86/8

Reverse Stitch Button

As long as you keep the reversestitch button depressed, themachine sews backwards.

Seam Guide Line

The numbers on the needle plateindicate the distance between the leftneedle position and the line.The numbers in the front indicate inmillimeters.The numbers in the back indicate ininches.



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Changing Needle

Raise the needle by turning thehandwheel toward you and lowerthe presser foot.Turn off the power switch.

Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it counter-clockwise.

Remove the needle from the clamp.

Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side awayfrom you.

When inserting the needle into the clamp, push it up as far as it will go and tighten the clamp screw firmly with the screwdriver.

* Check your needles frequently for barbed or blunted points. Snags and runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics are permanet and are almost always caused by a damaged needle.



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Thread and Needle Chart

Light

weight

Medium

weight

Heavy

weight

Fabrics

Crepe de Chine, Voile

Lawn, Organdy, Georgette, Tricot

Linens, Cotton, Pique,

Serge Double Knits, Percale

Denim, Tweed, Gabardine,Coating, Drapery and Upholstery Fabric

Threads

Fine Silk

Fine CottonFine SyntheticFine Cotton Covered Polyester

50 silk

50 to 80 Cotton

50 to 60 SyntheticCotton Covered Polyester

50 silk

40 to 50 Cotton

40 to 50 SyntheticCotton Covered Polyester

Needle Size

9or11

11or14

14or16

• In general, fine threads and needles are used for sewing thin fabrics, and thicker threads and needles are used for sewing heavy fabrics. Always testthread and needle size on a small piece of fabric which will be used for actual sewing.

• Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.

• When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics, use a BLUE TIPPED needle. The blue tipped needle effectively prevents skipped stitches.

• When sewing very fine fabrics, sew over a piece of paper to prevent yarn distortion.



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Winding the Bobbin

Horizontal Spool Pin

Ordinary Spool

Small Spool

Lift up the spool pin. Place the spool of thread on the spool with thethread coming off the spool as shown.Attach the large spool holder pressing it firmly against the thread spool.

* The small spool holder is used with narrow or small thread spools.

Additional Spool Pin

The additional spool pin is usedto wind extra bobbins withoutunthreading the machine.To use, insert the additionalspool pin in the hole. Place thefelt and the spool on the pin.

Removing the Bobbin

Gently slide the hook cover platerelease button to the right, andremove the cover plate.Lift out the bobbin.



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Threading the Bobbin Winder

Pull the clutch knob away from the machine todisengage the clutch.

Draw the thread from the spool.

Guide the thread around the thread guide.

Guide the thread around the bobbin winder thread guide.

Insert the thread through the hole the bobbin,threading from the inside to the outside.

q

w

e

r

t

y

u

i

o

Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle, and push it to the right.

With the free end of the thread held in your hand, depress the foot control.Stop the machine when it has made a few turns, and cut the thread close to the hole in the bobbin. Depress the foot control again. When the bobbin is fully wound, it will stop automatically.

Return the bobbin winder to its original position by moving the spindle to the left, and cut the thread as shown.

Push in the clutch knob to engage clutch.

* The machine will not sew untill the clutch knob is pushed in.

iuy

r

tw

q

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e

er



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Place the bobbin in the bobbinholder with the thread runningcounter-clockwise.

Inserting the Bobbin

Guide the thread into the notch Aon the front side of the bobbinholder. Draw the thread to the leftsliding it between the tensionspring blades.

Continue to draw the thread lightlyuntil the thread slips into notch B.

Pull out about 15 cm (6˝) of threadand attach the hook cover plate.



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Threading the Machine

Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you.Raise the presser foot with the presser foot lifter and thread in the order from q to t.

Lead the thread from the spool and pass it through the thread guide. Then draw it down along theright slot.

Guide the thread around the bottom of the thread guide plate from right to left, then draw it upward.

e Firmly draw the thread from right to left over the take-up lever and down into the take-up lever eye.

Then guide it down along the left slot.

Slide the thread from the left behind the needle bar therad guide.Thread the needle.

trewq

q

e

w

r

t

q

w

r

t



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Drawing Up Bobbin Thread

Raise the presser foot and hold theneedle thread lightly with your left hand.

Turn the handwheel slowly towards youwith your right hand until the needlegoes down and continue turninghandwheel until the take-up lever is atits highest position.Lightly draw up the needle theradforming a loop of bobbin thread.

q w e Pull 15 cm (6˝) of both threads back andunder the presser foot.



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Balancing Needle Thread Tension

The needle thread and the bobbinthread should interlock in thecenter of two layers of fabric instraight seams.

Set the desirednumber of thethread tension dialat setting mark.

Loosen the needlethread tension by movingthe dial to a lowernumber.

Tighten the needlethread tension by movingthe dial to a highernumber.

Thread Tension for Zigzag Sewing

To obtain better zigzag stitches,the needle thread tension shouldbe slightly weaker than in thecase of straight sewing. Theneedle thread should appearslightly on the reverse side of thefabric.



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Pattern Selector Dial

Select the pattern by turning thepattern selector dial and the redsignal shows the selected pattern.

* Raise the needle above thefabrics and presser foot whenyou turn the pattern selectordial.

Zigzag Width Control

Higher the number, wider thestitch width.

This machine will sew themaximum 6.5mm (0.25˝) widezigzag.

* Raise the needle above thefabrics when you set the stitchwidth.

Stitch Length Control

The higher the number, the longerthe stitch length. You can selectthe suitable stitch length for fabricsthat you plan to sew.

Note: Stitch length is automaticallyset for stretch stitch patternon pattern number 14 to 18.

Variable Needle Position

When pattern number 13 isselected, you can move theneedle between center and leftneedle positions.



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Straight Stitch Sewing

Raise the presser foot andposition the fabric next to astitching guide line on the needleplate.

Lower the presser foot andsmooth the threads toward theback. Depress the foot control.

Gently guide the fabric along theguide line letting the fabric feednaturally.

For fastening the ends of seams,press the reverse stitch button andsew several reverse stitches.

Raise the presser foot and removethe fabric, drawing the threads tothe back.

The threads are cut the properlength for starting the next seam.

Machine Setting

SECTION III BASIC SEWINGJanome S-3023 Instruction Manual Janome sewing machine


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Changing the Sewing Directions

Stop the machine and bring the needledown into the fabric by turning thehandwheel.Raise the presser foot.

Pivot the fabric around the needle tochange sewing direction as desired.Lower the presser foot.

Straight Stitching on Heavy Fabrics

Lower the needle info the fabric at the point where you wish tostart sewing. Press the small black button on the zigzag footwith your left hand to “lock” the presser foot to the fabric.

Lower the presser foot with your right hand, keeping pressureon the black button with your left hand.

Release the black button and start sewing.



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SECTION IV UTILITY STITCHING

Zigzag Stitch

Simple zigzag stitch is widelyused for overcasting, applique,sewing on buttons etc.

Overcasting

This type of stitch is used on theseam allowance to prevent fabricsfrom fraying at raw edges.It can be used to finish a hemedge.Place the edge of the fabric nextto the black prong of foot C .

Machine Setting Machine Setting



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Overedge Stitch

Place the edge of the fabric nextto the black prong of foot.The wires on this foot prevent lightweight fabric from rolling andcreating a ridge. The black prongguides your sewing so the needlefalls off the fabric wrapping thethreads around the edge to stopraveling.

Tricot Stitch

Place the fabric under the presserfoot so that the edge will beslightly inside the right hand sideof the presser foot.Guide the work so the right handstitches fall at the edge of thefabric.




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Triple Strength Stitch

This strong, durable stitch isrecommended where bothelasticity and strength are neededto insure comfort and durability.

Use it to reinforce areas such ascrotch and armhole seams.

Also use when constructing itemssuch as backpacks for extrastrength.

The stitch is sewn with twostitches forward and one stitchbackward forming a seam thatdoes not rip easily.

Garments should be basted forfitting before seaming.

Outline Stretch Stitch

Pattern 14 is a narrow stretchstitch designed to eliminatepuckering on knit fabrics and biasseams, while permitting the seamto be pressed completely flat.

For a 1.5 cm (5/8˝) seams, use the2 cm (6/8˝) marking on the needleplate.

When sewing light weight fabrics,set the pressure dial at “1” or “2”.




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Sewing Buttons

Tape the button over the placement mark.A pin can be placed on top of the foot tofrom a shank. Before lowering the foot, testthe needle swing making sure the needledrops in each hole.Adjust the stitch width if necessary. Lowerthe foot.

Align the both holes of buttonwith the needle swing, lowerthe foot and depress the footcontrol.

To strengthen the shank, cut the threads leaving a 20 cm (8˝) tail.Bring the needle thread down through the hole in the button andwind it around the shank.Draw the thread to the wrong side of fabric and knot.

* When button sewing is finished, return the drop feed lever.

Machine Setting



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Automatic Buttonhole

* The size of buttonhole isautomatically set by placing thebutton in the automaticbuttonhole foot (R).

* The button holder of the foottakes a button size up to 2.5 cm(1˝) in diameter.

* Make a test buttonhole on asample duplicating the fabric,interfacing and seams of theactual garment.

* Place the button on the fabricsample and mark the top andbottom to determine the positionof buttonhole.

* Use the interfacing on the stretchfabrics.

q Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its highestposition.Raise the presser foot lifter.

w Set the pattern indicator at “BH” by turning the pattern selectordial.

e Attach the automatic buttonhole foot (R).

NOTE: There should be no gap between the slider and spring holderof the foot as shown above.

(NOTE)

There shouldbe no gap

Slider Springholder

qwe

Machine SettingRemove the finger guard beforeattaching the automatic buttonholefoot (R) (refer to page 12).

*



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rt yui o

o Sew slowly and stop the machine at thestrating point when a buttonhole iscompleted.

* The machine sews front bartack and left rowfirst, then the back bartack and right row.

r Pull the button holder to the back, andplace the button in it. Push back the buttonholder toward you as far as it will go.

t Pull the buttonhole lever downward as faras it will go.

y Insert the fabric under the foot.Turn the handwheel one complete turn byyour hand.

u Remove the fabric to the left to draw boththreads to the left.

i Insert the garment under the foot, and lowerthe needle at the starting point. Then lowerthe automatic buttonhole foot.

Bottonhole lever

Starting point

Touch

Starting point



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!0 !1 !2 !3

!3 When buttonhole sewing isfinished, push the buttonholelever upward as far as it will go.

!0 Cut the both needle and bobbin threadsleaving about 10 cm (4˝) thread ends.Draw the needle thread to wrong side offabric by pulling the bobbin thread.Then, knot the threads.

!1 Insert a pin inside the bartack.Then cut the opening with a seamripper.Take care not to cut the stitches.

!2 To repeat buttonhole sewing.After a buttonhole is sewn, move the indicator to pattern“1” ( ) by turning the pattern selector dial in thedirection of arrow 1, then return the indicator back to“BH” by turning the dial in the direction of arrow 2 toreset for sewing the next buttonhole.



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Machine Setting

qwe rt

Manual Buttonhole

r Pull the buttonhole lever downward as faras it will go.

t Lower the needle info the garment wherethe buttonhole is to start, and lower thefoot.

* If the diameter of the button ismore than 2.5 cm (1˝), abuttonhole must be mademanually as follows:

q Turn the handwheel toward you to raisethe needle to its highest position. Raisethe presser foot lifter.

w Set the pattern indicator at “BH” byturning the pattern selector dial.

e Attach the buttonhole foot (B).



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yu i

y Sew the front bartack and left row, thenstop the machine after sewing thedesired total length of buttonhole.

u Pull the buttonhole lever toward you.

i Sew the back bartack and right row, thenstop the machine at the starting point.

* To cut the opening and to reset forsewing the next buttonhole, refer tothe instructions on page 31.

Starting point



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Machine Settin g

q w e r t y u i

* Set the stitch width i n accordance with the thickness o f the cord used .

* To cut the opening and to rese t for sewing the next buttonhole , refer to the instructions on pag e 31.

q With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord on the cord spur at the back of the buttonhole foot .

w Bring the ends toward you under the buttonhole foot until they clear the front end .

e Hook the filler cord info the forks on the front of the R foot to hold them tight .

r Lower the needle into the garment where the buttonhole will start and lower the foot .

t Depress the foot control gently and sew the buttonhole . Each side of the buttonhole and the bartacks will be sewn over the cord .

y Remove the fabric from the machine and cut the sewing threads .

u Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it .

i Thread the end through a darning needle, draw to the bottom side of the fabric and cut .

Corded Buttonhole



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Machine Setting

Zipper Application

Fabric Preparation:

Place right sides of fabric togetherand sew to the end of the zipperopening.Reverse stitch to knot the stitches.Sew the zipper opening with a bastingstitch.

q To sew the left side of the zipper, attach the zipper foot tothe pin on the right hand side.

w To sew the right side of the zipper, attach the zipper footto the pin on the left hand side.

q w



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Sew through fold and zipper tape. Stop justbefore the zipper foot reaches the slider onthe zipper tape.

Turn the handwheel by hand and lower theneedle info the fabric. Raise the zipper footand open the zipper. Lower the foot andsitich the remainder of the seam.

To Sew:

Fold back the left seam allowance.

Turn under the right seam allowance tofrom a 0.2 to 0.3 cm (1/8˝) fold.

Place the zipper teeth next to the fold andpin in place.

Attach the zipper foot with the pin on theright hand side. Lower the zipper foot.



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Close the zipper and spread the fabric flatwith the right side facing up.

Move the zipper foot to the left pin. Guidethe edge of the foot along the zipper teethand stitch through garment and zipper tape.Stop about 5 cm (2˝) from the top of thezipper.

With the needle down in the fabric, raise thefoot, remove the basting stitches and openthe zipper. Then lower the foot and stitchthe remainder of the seam making sure thefold is even.



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Machine Setting

Make a double 0.25 cm (1/8˝) foldapproximately 8 cm (3˝) in length.

Rolled Hem

Lower the needle into the fabricand lift the hemmer foot. Insert thefolded portion of the fabric into thecurl of the hemmer foot.

Lower the needle into the fabric atthe point where sewing is tobegin, then lower the hemmerfoot.

Sew 3 or 4 stitches while pullingthe needle and bobbin threads.



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Lower the hemmer foot, then sewby lifting up the edge of the fabricto keep it feeding smoothly andevenly.

Trim about 0.7 cm(1/4˝) fromcorners as illustrated, to reducebulk.

0.7 cm (1/4˝)

0.7 cm (1/4˝)



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Machine Setting

Blind Stitch Hemming

Turn the guide screw and movethe sliding guide next to the foldededge. Sew guiding the foldededge along the sliding guide.

On lightweight fabrics the raw edge can be turned under and pressed.On heavy weight fabrics that ravel, the raw edge should be overcast first.

Fold up the hem the desired amount and pin in place.

Then fold the hem under the fabric as illustrated.

Position the fabric on the machineso that the needle just pierces thefolded part of the fabric when theneedle comes over to the extremeleft side.Lower the presser foot.



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Stitch length of the automatic patterns (No.14 to 23) are preset, so you do notneed to select the stitch length for these patterns.

Decorative Satin Stitch Patterns

SECTION V DECORATIVE STITCHING

Stretch Stitch Patterns

Sew a row of stitches and adjust the thread tension so the needle threadshould appear on the reverse side of the fabric.Test the stitch on the actual fabric for the best results.

3～6.5



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Machine Setting

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance Smocking

If patterns are uneven whensewing with a particular fabric,adjust them with the feed balancedial.

* After sewing with an altereddial setting, you must reset thedial to “ ”.

When patterns arecompressed, correct byturning the dial in thedirection of “ + ”.

With the stitch length control at “4”, sew straight lines 1 cm(3/8˝) apartacross the area to be smocked. Knot the threads along the ege.Pull the bobbin threads and distribute gathers evenly. Sew patternstitches between the straight seams. Pull out the gathering stitches.

When patterns aredrawn out, correct byturning the dial in thedirection of “ – ”.

1 cm (3/8˝)



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Machine Setting

Quilting

The quiliting guide will help to keepthe stitchintg lines straight.Insert the quilter in the opening,and slide it at the desired width.

Sew guiding the quilter over theprevious row of stitching.



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Machine Setting

Pin Tucking

Fold the fabric with wrong sidestogether on the foldline.

Sew guiding the folded edge alongthe sliding guide.

Press the pin tucks to one side.

Position the fabric so that theneedle pierces 0.1 to 0.2 cm(1/16˝) inside of folded part andlower the presser foot.

Turn the guide screw and movethe sliding guide next to the foldededge.



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Shell Tuck

Place the folded edge along theslot of foot. The needle should falloff the edge of the fabric on theright forming a tuck.

Fold under 1.5cm (1/12˝) on eachfabric edge and press.Pin the two edges to paper 0.3cm(1/8˝) apart.

Sew slowly guiding the fabric sothe needle catches the foldededge on each side.

Peel off the paper from the wrongside of the fabric.

Fagoting



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Applique

Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabricjoiner) applique pieces on thefabric.Stitch around the applique makingsure the needle falls along theouter edge of the applique.When sewing corners, lower theneedle down into the fabric. Raisethe presser foot and pivot thefabric to the right or left.

* When applique sewing isfinished, return the pressuredial to 3.

Patch Work

Sew seam and press seamallowance open. Sew pattern stitchon the right side of garmentcentering stitches over the seamline.



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SECTION VI CARE OF YOUR MACHINE

Cleaning the Bobbin Holder

The bobbin area and hook raceshould be cleaned after completionof every garment. Do not store themachine in an area of highhumidity, near a radiator or indirect sunlight. Clean the outsideof the machine with a soft clothand neutral soap. Raise the needleand unplug the machine beforecleaning.

Turn off the power switch orunplug the machine.

Remove the cover plate by slidingthe hook cover plate releasebutton to the right.

Take out the bobbin.Brush out dust and lint or you mayuse a vacuum cleaner.

Insert the bobbin

Attach the hook cover plate.



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Clean the feed dogs, hook raceand bobbin holder with the lintbrush and a soft dry cloth.

Take out the bobbin.Lift up the bobbin holder andremove it.

Unplug the machine and removethe presser foot and needle.Remove the screw on the lefthand side of the needle plate withthe screwdriver. Remove theneedle plate.

Cleaning the Hook Race Inserting the Bobbin Holder

Line up the triangle marks andposition the bobbin holder so thenotch fits next to the stopper in thehook race.



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Trouble Shootin g

Conditio n

The machine does no t run smoothly and i s noisy .

The needle threa d b reaks .

The bobbin threa d b reaks .

The needle breaks .

Skipped stitches .

Ca u s e

1. Threads have been caught in hook mechanism . 2. The feed dog is packed with lint .

1. The needle thread is not threaded properly . 2. The needle thread tension is too tight . 3. The needle is bent or blunt . 4. The needle is incorrectly inserted . 5. The fabric is not being drawn to the rear when sewing is finished . 6. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needle .

1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin holder . 2. Lint has collected in the bobbin holder . 3. The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly .

1. The needle is incorrectly inserted . 2. The needle is bent or blunt . 3. The needle clamp screw is loose . 4. The tension of the needle thread is too tight . 5. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing is finished . 6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn . 7. The pattern selector dial has been turned while the needle was in the material .

1. The needle is incorrectly inserted . 2. The needle is bent or blunt . 3. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work being sewn . 4 . A B LU E TIPPE D needle i s no t being u s ed f o r s ewing str e tc h , v e ry f ine f ab r i cs and sy n t he t i cs . 5. The needle thread is not threaded properly . 6. The presser foot pressure is not strong enough .

Referenc e

See Pages 47 and 4 8 See Page 4 8

See Page 1 9See Page 2 1 See Page 1 4See Page 1 4See Page 2 3 See Page 1 5

See Page 1 8See Page 4 7 Exchange bobbin .

See Page 1 4See Page 1 4See Page 4See Page 2 1 See Page 2 3 See Page 1 5See Page 2 2

See Page 1 4See Page 1 4See Page 15See Page 1 5See Page 1 9See Page 1 0



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Conditio n

Seam Puckering .

Stitches form loop s below the work .

The cloth is no t feeding smoothly .

The machine does no t wo rk .

The buttonhol e stitches are no t balanced .

Ca u s e

1. The needle thread tension is too tight . 2. The needle thread is not threaded correctly . 3. The needle is too heavy for the cloth being sewn . 4. The stitches are too coarse for the fabric being sewn .

5. The presser foot pressure is not correctly adjusted . * When sewing extremely light weight materials, place a sheet of paper underneath the fabric .

1. The needle thread tension is too loose . 2. The needle is either too heavy or too fine for the thread .

1. The feed dog is packed with lint . 2. The presser foot pressure is too weak . 3. The stitches are too fine .

4. The feed dog is not raised after “ Drop fee d ” has been used .

1. The machine is not plugged in . 2. A thread is caught in the hook race . 3. Clutch knob is pulled away for the bobbin winding . 4. Bobbin winder spindle is in the winding position .

1. The stitch length is not suitable for the fabric being sewn . 2. The work is being pulled or held back .

3. Interfacing is not used with stretch fine fabrics .

Referenc e

See Page 2 1 See Page 1 9See Page 1 5Make the stitche s denser . See Page 1 0

See Page 2 1 See Page 1 5

See Page 4 8 See Page 1 0 Make the stitche s c oa rs e r . See Page 1 0

See Page 8 See Page 4 8 See Page 1 7See Page 1 7

See Page 29,32 and 3 4 Do not force the fabri c for guiding . See Page 2 9



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Janome s3023 manual - Toews Sewing · 2018-04-23 · controller free from accumulation of lint,...

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Transcript of Janome s3023 manual - Toews Sewing · 2018-04-23 · controller free from accumulation of lint,...