Jacquard Fabric on Circular Jacquard Fabric on Circular Knitting machineKnitting machine

Part 3: Double Jersey Jacquard Part 3: Double Jersey Jacquard FabricsFabrics

Jimmy LamJimmy Lam

Institute of Textiles & ClothingInstitute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning ObjectivesLearning Objectives Rib Jacquard fabricsRib Jacquard fabrics Imitation fabricImitation fabric Jacquard EyeletsJacquard Eyelets Jacquard Rib on PlainJacquard Rib on Plain French RibFrench Rib Blister FabricBlister Fabric Jacquard BackingJacquard Backing

Rib Jacquard FabricsRib Jacquard Fabrics Rib Jacquard fabrics are referred to colour jacquard

fabric produced on knitting machine with two set of needles.

On circular machine, cylinder needles are used to knit pattern and the dial needles are used for backing

Unlike single jersey, there is no float yarns at the back, the dial needles will form loops on all the yarn whether they have to show on face or not.

Can you tell which fabric is single or double jacquard ?

CharacteristicsCharacteristics The fabric properties will affect by:The fabric properties will affect by:

– yarn parameters;yarn parameters;– dial height;dial height;– fabric structure;fabric structure;– type of jacquard backing andtype of jacquard backing and– type of finishingtype of finishing

In general, double knit jacquard has:In general, double knit jacquard has: WidthWidth

– Normal 60” and is rather stable because no tuck stitchNormal 60” and is rather stable because no tuck stitch

Characteristics (II)Characteristics (II)

LengthLength– Similar to single jersey, fabric length is inversely Similar to single jersey, fabric length is inversely

proportional to number of colour in pattern. proportional to number of colour in pattern. Weight and ThicknessWeight and Thickness

– Fabric weight will depend on type of backing used. Fabric weight will depend on type of backing used. Sometimes fabric weight will reduce if increase number of Sometimes fabric weight will reduce if increase number of colours, (It is because of stretching of fabric loop0.colours, (It is because of stretching of fabric loop0.

– For thickness, rib jacquard fabrics are thicker than single For thickness, rib jacquard fabrics are thicker than single knit (because of needles loops on both side of fabric)knit (because of needles loops on both side of fabric)

Characteristics (III)Characteristics (III)

Surface AppearanceSurface Appearance– looks acceptable if on relaxed states. But if looks acceptable if on relaxed states. But if

stretching the fabric, unwanted colours will show up.stretching the fabric, unwanted colours will show up. ElasticityElasticity

– Fairly good but will be a disadvantages for formal Fairly good but will be a disadvantages for formal suiting fabrics.suiting fabrics.

Application and machine usedApplication and machine used– refer to tablerefer to table

End-uses for double jersey jacquard End-uses for double jersey jacquard fabricfabric

Circular machines for producing Circular machines for producing double jersey jacquard fabricdouble jersey jacquard fabric

Production increasesupward

Pattern size increasesdownward

Unconventional Circular Double Unconventional Circular Double Jersey Jacquard FabricsJersey Jacquard Fabrics

Imitation laceImitation lace

A fabric is actually with TWO layers of plain knit A fabric is actually with TWO layers of plain knit fabric tubes and join together by tuck stitch to fabric tubes and join together by tuck stitch to form one unique fabric.form one unique fabric.

If two tubes are of different colours, small holes If two tubes are of different colours, small holes made by tuck stitches will show through and made by tuck stitches will show through and patterns are composed by small holes like patterns are composed by small holes like jacquard lace.jacquard lace.

Imitation laceImitation lace

Two layers of plain fabric joined by tuck stitches.

CharacteristicsCharacteristicsImitation laceImitation lace

This is in fact, two layers of plain knit and linked This is in fact, two layers of plain knit and linked together by tuck stitch.together by tuck stitch.

The space is filled with air, therefore fabric is thicker The space is filled with air, therefore fabric is thicker than colour jacquard.than colour jacquard.

If the lace is modified with one layer of polyester wool If the lace is modified with one layer of polyester wool yarn, the other is cotton, together with wide spaced yarn, the other is cotton, together with wide spaced linking points, the fabric will give cockling effect.linking points, the fabric will give cockling effect.

Ideas to keep warm and winter casual wearIdeas to keep warm and winter casual wear

Quilt fabricQuilt fabric Modification of imitation lace by inserting high Modification of imitation lace by inserting high

bulk nylon filament in between two layers of bulk nylon filament in between two layers of fabricsfabrics

This sandwich fabric will be more bulk and This sandwich fabric will be more bulk and more suitable for winter casual wear /sport more suitable for winter casual wear /sport wear.wear.

Quilt FabricQuilt FabricModification of Imitation lace by insertingHigh bulk nylon in between two layers of fabric

Jacquard EyeletsJacquard Eyelets

Eyelet on rib fabricsEyelet on rib fabrics Jacquard mechanism is used to transfer the selected Jacquard mechanism is used to transfer the selected

cylinder loops to dial needlescylinder loops to dial needles After transfer, the empty needle knit again and form After transfer, the empty needle knit again and form

holes on the fabric surfaces.holes on the fabric surfaces. The basic structure of jacquard eyelet is 1 X 1 rib, The basic structure of jacquard eyelet is 1 X 1 rib,

knitted with single colour.knitted with single colour. Machine used is the revolving cam box of 12-14 npi.Machine used is the revolving cam box of 12-14 npi.

Jacquard EyeletsJacquard Eyelets

Eyelets or holeson fabric surface

Formed by specialrevolving cam box knitting machine

Jacquard rib on plainJacquard rib on plain

Mixture of colour jacquard and transfer jacquardMixture of colour jacquard and transfer jacquard on fabric surface, rib pattern is thicker than the plain on fabric surface, rib pattern is thicker than the plain

areaarea Fabric is knitted with 2 to 3 colour with horizontal Fabric is knitted with 2 to 3 colour with horizontal

or birdeye backing.or birdeye backing.

Jacquard Rib on PlainJacquard Rib on Plain

Rib Pattern

PlainBackground

Rib Loops

Plain Loops

Rib on plain fabricRib on plain fabric

Rib as patternPlain as background