IT'S FUN TO SEWa cotton school dress

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE PHASE 3

OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY, CORVALLIS 4-H CLUB SERIES 1-87

It's Fun to Sew---Cotton School DressPrepared by

THETA JOHNSONC'othing Speci&ist, Extension Service

Utah State UniversityLogan, Utah

PHASE 3

Where to find page

Your guide for the project ------------------------ 1

Plan your project------------------------------------------ 1

Your anklets ---------------------------------------------- 2

Improve your grooming------------------------------ 2

Care of your hair -------------------------------------- 2

Patterns for you-------------------------------------------- 3

Fabrics you will like---------------------------------- 4

Before you start to sew-------------------------------- 5

Study your pattern---------------------------------- 5

Straighten your fabric ---------------------------- 5

Pinand cut -------------------------------------------------- 6

Check your machine-------------------------------- 6

Practice on an easy-to-make article-------- 7

Draw-string bag ---------------------------------------- 7

Swimming robe ---------------------------------------- 8

Apron or scarf ------------------------------------------ 9

Make clothes for school or play---------------- 9

Blouse---------------------------------------------------------- 9

Gathered skirt ------------------------------------------ 9

Gored skirt ------------------------------------------------ 12

School dress ---------------------------------------------- 12

page

How does your costume look to you'---- 12

Tips for easier sewing ------------------------------ 13

Belt keepers ---------------------------------------------- 16

Darts------------------------------------------------------------ 13

Facings-------------------------------------------------------- 14

Fastenings -------------------------------------------------- 16

Gathers-------------------------------------------------------- 11

Guide lines ------------------------------------------------ 13

Hems------------------------------------------------------------ 15

Markings---------------------------------------------------- 13

Seams---------------------------------------------------------- 14

Seam finishes -------------------------------------------- 14

Skirtband -------------------------------------------------- 11

Skirt placket ---------------------------------------------- 10

Stay-stitching -------------------------------------------- 13

Tailor's tacks -------------------------------------------- 13

Complete your record book ---------------------- 17

Show others what you have learned ------ 17

Exhibits------------------------------------------------------ 17

Demonstrations ---------------------------------------- 17

Are you ready for the next project' -------- 17

Read this book from cover to cover before you start your project.

Your guide for the project91 HIS PROJECT is for you who haveI learned the lessons of Clothing Phases1 and 2. You are now ready to do moreadvanced sewing.

Third phase clothing features clothing forschool and play. It includes points on healthand good grooming for you to study anduse. You will learn to stretch the life of yourclothes. Take turns leading discussions andgiving demonstrations for your club. Lookat "Tips for Easier Sewing," page 13. Theywill aid you in improving your sewing.

What to study1. Care of clothinglearn to keep your

clothing in its proper place.2. Buying anklets and how to care for

them.

3. Habits to improve health and groom-ing.

4. Style, material, and construction ofeasy-to-make clothes for school andplay., 5. Taking part in special events such asjudging, demonstrations, and exhibits.

Articles to make1. Make one of these articles:

Swimming robeScarfPeasant apronDraw-string bag

This will help you review what youlearned in the other projects and to get thefeel of using the sewing machine.

Make one of these articles:School dressSkirt and blouse

Add to your 4-H record bookYour county extension agent will give

you a clothing record sheet and a sheet foryour 4-H Club story for this year. Placethem in front of last years' records. Keepyour records as you go. You may recordthe articles you make other than those thatare required for your project, unless you havemade them for some other program or class.Keep a record of the activities you partici-pate in (such as tours, demonstrations, judg-ing, camps, and exhibits) for your permanentrecord.

Demonstrate to your clubGive a demonstration at one of your

club meetings. Show others what you havelearned. When you show another club mem-ber how to tie a knot or sew on a button,you are giving a "demonstration." Thingsthat are done or seen are remembered longestand clearest. Work alone or with a partner.Plan to enter a community or county demon-stration contest. Ask your leader for helpon how to give a demonstration. Choose atopic you will study in your project.

Plan your projectYOU WILL have fun making and buyingclothing for school or play. Plan this

project with your leader and your mother.Remember that mother is a partner in thisproject. Talk to her about what you want tomake and show her this project book. Shewill be glad to give you suggestions and helpyou make a wise selection if she knows whatyou are to make.

First you will study how to buy and carefor your anklets.

The first article you will make is to helpyou review what you learned in your last 1

project and to help you get the feel of thesewing machine again. There is a widechoiceselect something that you can makein a short time. Complete this article beforeyou start your dress or skirt and blouse.

The second article is to be the main partof your project. Here you will learn manynew sewing methods. Select something youhave not made before. Choose something thatwill teach you two or three new tricks insewing, but be careful to avoid dresses withmany details such as collars, cuffs, andsleeves on one pattern.

Your anklets

Buying ankletsIt is important that you learn to select

your own clothing. Why not start with buy-ing your anklets? You will wear anklets formany occasionssports, school, and best.Select them for the occasion for which youintend to wear them.

You will find anklets made of many fiberscotton, rayon, nylon, wool, or a combina-tion of these fibers. Each of these fibersmakes the anklets feel and wear differently.Cotton anklets are soft and absorbent. Theyare comfortable to wear. A good qualitycotton anklet holds its shape and wears well.

Rayon anklets are not as soft or as ab-sorbent as cotton and may not wear as well.Nylon anklets are made of staple yarn (silk-like) and of spun yarn (wool-like). Theygive long wear but are not as comfortable ascotton. This is because they are not as ab-sorbent. Wool socks are usually worn byathletes and people whose feet perspire alot, because they are absorbent. They willhold a lot of moisture and not feel wet.

H\

1RO2EXCEPT 0% NYLD ADDED

TO HEEL TOE t TOPAOVERTIZ(O NCOLORFAST VAT OTEDTRUE RI S TRAN5FERRW lop

Read the labelsA combination of cotton and nylon makes

a desirable anklet. You will find ankletsmade of cotton with toes and heels rein-forced with nylon for longer wear. Blendsof nylon and cotton or other fibers are alsoused. Anklets are made of many new anddifferent kinds of yarns and knits to add pat-terns and stretch. New finishes are also used.Some finishes help to hold the shape andcontrol shrinkage. The finish may requirespecial care and washing.

A good anklet is closely knit, has a topwhich will hold its shape, and the cuff isknitted to the foot. It comes in colors whichharmonize with your dresses or sweaters andskirts. It is "fast color" and will not fade.

Buy the right size ankletsTo be comfortable anklets should be one

half inch longer than your foot. Short socksare injurious to your feet. They do not wearas long as properly-fitted ones.

Visit your store to study the newest typesof socks for teenagers.

Care of ankletsGood care will help your anklets to last

longer. Wash your socks after each wearing.Use a mild soap or detergent and warmwater. Have the water as hot as you cancomfortably hold your hands in. Rinse thesocks thoroughly in clear water and hangthem by the toes to dry. White socks maybe washed with the family laundry. Alwayswash dark-colored ones by hand.

Improve your groomingCare of your hair

STUDY THE care of your hair for yourgood grooming lesson. Learn to comb,

brush, shampoo, and arrange it. Invite thebeautician or hair dresser in your communityto talk at a club meeting. She will be glad toshow you how to care for and style your hair.Have her show you how to make pin curls,waves, or rolls.

Shiny, clean-looking hair adds to yourgood looks. It shows the condition of your 2

health. Poor health, lack of rest, or poor foodcan make your hair look dull. But moreoften, dull hair is due to lack of care. Youcan add to the luster of your hair by sham-pooing it often. Brushing will also add toits beauty.

ShampooThe base of any good hair style is a good

shampoo. There is no set time for a sham-poo. Shampoo your hair when it is soiled.You may want to shampoo it every five daysif your hair is oily. Every week may be oftenenough if it is dry.

Use plenty of warm water and a goodshampoo when you wash your hair. Sham-poos are made for oily, normal, and dry hair.Ask the beautician which one is best for yourhair. Rinse thoroughly to remove the sham-poo and to add luster to your hair.

StyleSince your hair is a frame for your face,

a nice arrangement adds to your good looks.Hair worn in a simple style is easy to man-

age. Good hair styling is important. If yourhair is shaped properly, it will take the shapeof the cut. Your hair styling will then bebeautiful and becoming.

Here is a trick for finding your hair style.When your hair is wet, mold it around yourface and try several parts. Try curving yourpart. It is more interesting than a straightone. Always bring out your beauty spots.If you have a beautiful hair line, display it.

Hair is styled for the individual. Try newhair styles. There are many designed forgirls your age.

Brush and combBrush your hair regularly with a boar-

bristle brush for stimulation and to cleanseyour hair. Brush your hair carefully. Toovigorous brushing may break the ends ofyour hair. The same is true of combing.

Set your hair in pincurls as often as isnecessary to have your hair look well-groomed. Comb your hair thoroughly whenit is dry. Set the waves or curls by combingthrough the hair slowly. This gives you con-trol of your hair.

Patterns for you

THERE ARE many attractive clothingpatterns in our current fashion books.

Choose a style you like and feel you canmake. Be sure it has lines that are becomingto your figure and size. You may need a stylethat is entirely different from the one yourgirl friend needs. Your mother and leaderwill be glad to help you make a choice. Thisis probably the first time you have used a pat-tern. Select one that has only a few pieces.Avoid details such as collars, set-in sleeves,and yokes. Select a pattern you can wearto school.

The size pattern you will need is deter-mined by your bust measurement.

After you have selected your pattern,study the chart on the back of the envelope. 3

/

It will tell you how much fabric you needand what trimmings to buy. Buy your pat-tern and fabric at the same time.

Fabrics you will like

WHEN YOU select your fabric, the im-portant thing to think about is: What

am I going to make from this fabric? Whenand where will I wear it? Then choose theright design, color, and weight for yourpattern.

You will want fabrics that are pretty, funto sew, and fun to wear.

ColorWhat colors do you like best? Usually the

colors you like are the ones that flatter you.Hold the fabric to your face to see how youwill look in it. Does it make your hair, eyes,and skin look prettier? Will it go with othercolors of the clothing you already own? Isit a color you can wear to school this fall?Is it a color you can find thread and trim-fling to match? It is the color for you if itmeets all these requirements.

Design

Study the fabrics for the size, color, andplacing of the design in the fabric. Do youwant to count the number of spots on it?Is the design too large or too small? A de-sign that is small with interesting colorswithout one part of the design being brighterthan all others will make the prettier dressor apron.

Larger, brighter, and bolder designs andcolors make attractive beach robes and bags.You will find it more difficult to make anattractive dress or apron from plain colors,plaids, and stripes. Plain colors show everymistake you make and plaids and stripes aredifficult to match. Border prints are used forpleated or gathered skirts. Try to match thedesign at the seams.

Cotton fabrics are beautiful and there aremany types of fabrics made from cotton.Learn to recognize at least five: Percale,broadcloth, sail cloth, cotton satin, and terrycloth. There are many interesting noveltyfabrics on the market. They have differentweaves and finishes. When you visit the storesee if you can find at least three noveltyfabricsembossed cotton, woven stripes, anda pattern weave. 4

New finishesNew finishes make cottons more crease

resistant and easier to wash and iron. Butfinishes sometimes make fabrics harder tosew and press. You will find a finished cot-ton will make a crisper looking dress andwill be worth the extra work it takes to pressthe seams while you are making it.

Labels

Read the information on the label on theend of the bolt. It will tell you if the fabricis color fast, shrink resistant, crease resistant,and either hand-or-machine washable. A goodcotton fabric has all these features.

Examine the fabricExamine a torn end of the fabric. If the

ends and designs are uneven, look for anotherpiece of fabric. An uneven fabric with a finishcannot be straightened and you will not beable to cut your dress on the straight of thegrain. Crush the fabric in your hand. Selectone that is soft and difficult to wrinkle.

Tours

Plan a shopping tour with your club. Takeyour mother with you so she can help youselect fabrics for your projects.

Select all the fabrics you need for yourproject at one time. Choose colors and fabrics

that look good together. Remember that youwill be wearing your blouse with your skirtso they must look well together. The bag orscarf you make must also harmonize withyour skirt and blouse or your other clothes.

Also think about the time you will finishyour dress and select a style and color thatwill be pretty then.

Shopping is fun

Before you go shopping, make a list of allthe things you will need to buy for yourprojectequipment, fabrics, thread. If youdid not have a tracing wheel and paper lastyear, you may need them this year. Makeit a habit to buy everything you need in onetrip to the store.

Fabrics for Check what you need

Dress or skirt ................................

Beach bag or robe, scarf, or apronThread to matchFasteners, hooks and eyes

snapszipperbuttonsvelcro

Pattern, sizeScissors------------------------------------------------

Pins, dressmakerMeasuring gaugeNeedles-7 - 9 sharpThimbleTape measure

Before you start to sew

Study your pattern

STUDY THE instruction sheet carefullybefore you unfold your pattern. This will

help you know each piece of your patternas you unfold it. When unfolding it, putyour initials on each piece.

You will find an arrow on each piece ofthe pattern that tells you how the patternis to be placed on your cloth. This mark iscalled the "grain line." Learn to recognizemarks for fold, seamline, darts, tucks, hems,center front and center back, buttons, andbuttonholes.

When you can recognize all the marks onyour pattern, trim off the edges and pin ittogether. Have your leader check it for fit.She will help you make any alterations thatare necessary. 5

Straighten your fabric

Study your fabric. You will find there arethreads running lengthwise (warp threads)with other threads woven in and out of these(crosswise or filling threads). Each of these

threads should be straight, not curved orslanted. If the end of the fabric has notbeen torn, pull one thread near the end thatwill go all the way across the fabric. Cutalong this line.

Now if the ends of the fabric are not even,have your leader or mother help youstraighten the cloth by pulling on the bias,as is being done in the picture.

When the cloth is straight, pin the edgestogether. Now pin the pattern to your cloth.

Crease-resistant fabric cannot be straight-ened.

Pin and cut

You need a large smooth surface for pin-fling and cutting. A big table is best, butyou can use a clean floor.

Study your pattern layout. Fold yourcloth and pin your pattern as suggested.Place the big pattern pieces on first. Seethat the line that shows the straight of thegrain is placed exactly on the lengthwise"grain" or thread of the cloth.

SCI. VA GE

ST9A/GHT OF GRAIN

Measure from the selvage to this line,making sure the distance is equal at allpoints. Pin at each end of mark as measure-ments are made. Now pin around the edgeof your pattern. Place the pins at right anglesto the edge.

Have your leader check the pattern onyour cloth before you cut.

Use long sharp shears. Take long strokesto give an even edge. Cut close to the pat-tern.

Cut notches out, not into your seamallowance.

Before you remove the pattern, mark alldarts, tucks, seams, buttons, and buttonholes.Ask your leader to show you how to maketailor's tacks or how to use dressmakers' trac-ing paper. Use the lightest-colored paperthat will show on your cloth. Page 13 tellsyou more about guide lines.

Check your machine

Before you start to sew, check the machinestitch. Your seams will not hold if the stitchis not perfect. Try your machine stitch ona double piece of cloth. Stitch on the biasand the straight. Does the stitch look thesame on both sides? If not, have your leaderadjust the tension while you watch to seehow she does it.

For a review of what you learned aboutthe sewing machine in your other projects,practice sewing on a sample of your fabricuntil you get the feel of the machine. Whenyou can run the machine smoothly, make oneof the following articles for practicescarf,draw-string bag, apron, or swimming robe.

Cloth gude

A cloth guide on your machine will aidin making the stitching straight. Place a stripof colored scotch tape on the machine inch,or the width desired, from the needle if agauge is not available. Keep the edge of thecloth along the inside of the tape or guideas you sew. Watch the edge of the tape notthe machine needle.

The pressure foot is a good gauge for edgestitching. It is easy to stitch close to theedge of a hem if you let the edge of the clothfollow the inside of the presser foot. A inchseam can be made by letting the edge followthe outside of the presser foot.

Practice on an easy-to-make articleDraw-String bag

YOU MAY make a draw-string bag toreview what you learned last year. This

may be any size. It can be used for yoursewing, swimming suit, as a hand bag, or formany other purposes.

Materials neededFabric:Percale, sail cloth, denim, terry

cloth, or towel. If you use a towel, selectone approximately 14 x 23 or 18 x 28.

S Lining: Plastic bag.Cording: Cotton or nylon cording.

Make your bagFirst decide how long and how wide you

would like to have your bag. Make it justlarge enough for the purpose you plan touse it for. Don't make it too large.

Follow these suggestions1. Pull threads to straighten material and

cut on these lines.2. Cut two pieces of cloth for the bag,

the size you want your bag to be. If you haveenough cloth, you may cut one piece twiceas long and eliminate the bottom seam. Whena towel is used, remove the hems at bothends.

3. Place the two pieces with right sidestogether or fold through the center if onepiece is used.

4. Pin or baste sides leaving the top open.5. Measure from the top or open end of

the bag i-inch and mark with chalk. 7

I Il

1_ --------- -- -

SLsv

6. Take another measurement from thetop, this one 4 inches down and mark.

7. Stitch a }-inch seam from top to firstmark, and fasten or back tack thread. Stitchbelow second markings. Leave the space be-tween markings open on both sides of bag.

8. Make a -inch slash in the seam atlower markings and finish openings with -

inch hems.

I / /4' NF.9O/,VCil/N ------ ---------- -

9. Make a 2-inch hem at top. Stitchthrough the center of the hem to make a1-inch wide casing and heading. If you aremaking a swimming bag, why not line it withplastic. Either use a sheet or plastic bag.Make it the same size as your bag.

At this point place the plastic under thehem. Pin or baste into position. Turn rightside out. Stitch hem. Use long stitches 6 or8 to an inch when sewing plastic. Smallstitches will cut it.

10. Make or buy the cords for your bag.Make two cords inch wide finished, 1 yardeach in length. (See apron sashesPhase 2.)You may buy cotton or nylon cord. For asmall bag use size 100; use size 150 for alarge bag.

11. Run cords through casing. Start eachcord at opposite ends. Sew ends of cordtogether or tie a knot.

12. Box the bottom of the bag. Fold fromcorner so that side and bottom seams are to-gether. Mark and stitch across triangle.

Swimming robe

\ \ I \ '1/ \ \ I I 1\' ç r\. \ I 4op

1I\ '\ h\

V\'\I I\ \ \

\

/

ELA,rlC

PA.irR,Nr,

Swimming is now a popular sport in Ore-gon so you may want to make a swimmingrobe.

You may make one like the one picturedor select an easy-to-make pattern from yourfavorite pattern book. Or, adapt an over-blouse pattern. Just cut it long enough tocover your swim suit.

Here is an easy one to make. It is mostlyhems.

Fabric: Approximately 1 yards of terrycloth, sail cloth, percale, denim, or other ab-sorbent cotton.

How to cut

1. Fold fabric in half lengthwise.

2. Measure in from cut end 17 inches andmark.

StLVAC.

3. Measure down from top 12 inches tomark arm hole. Then measure across end 2inches on each side of mark. Cut along thesemarks. This marks the top of the side dart.

4. Mark dart. Measure 4 inches from bot-tom and mark. Then mark from this point totop ends of dart. (See diagram.) Make finalmarks for darts with tailor's tacks or dress-makers' tracing paper.

How to Make

1. Fold robe through dart and armhole.Pin and stitch shoulder seams. Make shoulderlO inches long. Measure from arm hole.Make a 2-inch seam.

2. Pin underarm dart-2 inches wide atunderarm and slope to a point 4 inches frombottom. Stitch. (See darts page 13.)

3. Press a 1-inch hem all around robe in-cluding shoulder seams and armholes (seephase 1). To make hem turn edge back 2inches and press, then press inch under tomake 1, inch hem.

Press, pin, and stitch hems in this order:Firstfront; secondneck; thirdarmscye;fourthbottom.

Stitching the hems in this order will leavethe ends of the hem open so a draw-stringcan be placed in the top and bottom hem. Ifa draw-string is not used, the front hem maybe made last.

4. Reinforce underarm with bias or hemtape.

Machine stitch around edge.

S

Fastenings1. Draw-strings or ties2. Belt3. Velcro4. Large buttons and loop buttonholes5. Large snaps6. Buttons and buttonholes

Apron or scarfIf you did not make an apron or scarf in

your second year of club work, you maychoose to make one of these now. Turn backto your second-year outline for these in-structions.

Make clothes for school or play

IF YOU HAVE completed and judged yoursmall article, you are ready to start your

main article. You may make a skirt andblouse, or a dress. You talked this over withyour mother and leader at your first meeting.By now you should have your fabric andpattern and all the other things you will needto make your chosen article.

Easy-to-make blouseIf you make a blouse, select a pattern

which will be easy to make. Choose a pat-tern with few pieces and without set-insleeves or collar.

9--

Follow the directions in your pattern formaking your blouse. Learn what all themarkings mean. Stay-stitch the bias edges.Page 13 tells you how to stay-stitch.

Select cloth for your blouse that will lookgood with your skirt. Be sure the cloth isfirm, pre-shrunk, and colorfast.

Gathered skirtSelect fabric that is colorful and gay for

your skirt. Closely woven cloth will be easyto sew and will hold a sharp crease.

You will need from 3 to 3 yards of fabricfor your skirt. The more fabric you try togather in your skirt the harder it will be tomake. For the girl of average height cutyour skirt as follows:

How to cut your skirtCut or tear a 6-inch strip from one side

of your skirt fabric. Measure in from theselvage edge. Use this for the skirt bandand pockets. There will be some left over.

Tear off the selvage edge from the largepiece.

You may have to cut the band from theend of your fabric instead of the side if youare tall and need the extra length.

The above method of cutting gives youone seam on the placket side.

SEt VAGE

ctr TEAR

4-

S!LVAG(

Sometimes the design in the fabric will bemore attractive if the skirt is cut in severallengths. When this is necessary, you willhave three or four seams in your skirt. Thismay make a difference in the amount offabric you will need, so decide how you willcut your skirt before buying your fabric.

Make your skirt

Pin the short edges together to make theside seam. Make the seam l. inches wide.It is to be used for the placket. When fin-ished the placket will be on the left side.

Stitch the side seam. Stitch the seam fromthe bottom up. At a point 5 inches from thetop, turn and stitch half way across the seam.Turn both edges of the seam toward thefront section and press.

TRITQ "___

10

Trim the seams. Start at the bottom ofthe wide seam and trim it to inch wide upto the placket. Do not trim above this point.

Finish the placket1. Baste and stitch a i-inch hem on the

back edge of the placket.

4"HEM

SKIRTBACK

2. Fold the front edge of the placket evenwith the seam line. Press. Now fold againto make a complete hem. Baste.

/1

FOLD

SKIRT

(1I2 FRONT

3. Pin placket together, stitch from thetop to the bottom of the placket, turn andstitch across the end on top of first stitching.Pull threads through and tie ends. This isa strong, easy-to-make placket.

Y+'EM \\ I I I-IEM

BACK thY FRONT

Hem the skirtSkirts look best with hand-stitched hems.

Make the hem before placing the band on theskirt. Unless you have poor posture, it willhang even. Decide how long you would likeyour finished skirt to be. Be careful not tomake it too short. Measure from the top edgeto the length you would like the skirt to beand press in the hem. Turn the top edge ofthe hem under inch. Your skirt will be pret-tier if you make a wide hem-3 inches orwider.

When the hem has been carefully pressedand put in place, ask your leader to showyou a hand hemming stitch.

Place gathering threadsat fop of skirt

Make a long stitch on your machine. Usesize 50 top thread and heavy duty for bobbinthread.

Using the guide on your machine, stitcharound the top of your skirt inch from theedge. Make two more rows * inch apart.You are now ready to make your skirt band.

Make the skirt band1. Measure your waist. Add 2j- inches.

This will give you the length needed for yourskirt band. Cut your band 6- inches wide.

2. Press a i-inch fold along one side ofyour band. From the folded edge divide therest into three sections. This gives three2-inch sections. Make the section with thei-inch fold slightly shorter than the othertwo sections. Press.

3. The section with the .-inch fold is thefront of your band. Stitch criss-cross throughthe back part of the band. You can stitchstraighter if you make a guide or pattern.Cut a strip of waxed paper the length andwidth of your band, 24 x 2 inches.

Fold it in six equal sections. Then foldit diagonally; then diagonally again. Openthe paper and pin it to the band and followthe creases in the paper. This will give prac-tice on starting and stopping the machineand on turning corners. Tear the paper awayafter the stitching is completed.

4. Stitch a .-inch seam at the ends ofthe band. Turn and press. Do not sew thei--inch fold at bottom of band into the seam.

Gather in fullnessDivide both your skirt and the skirt band

into eight equal parts to help you make thegathers even in your skirt. Do not includethe placket or 1-inch overlap at the end ofthe band. Mark with colored threads. Markthe skirt band so the extension or extralength will be on the back of the placket.The front of band will be even with the frontedge of the placket.

Pin and stitch band to skirt.Pin the pieces together, right side of skirt

to right side of band. Match dividing marksthat you have made. Gently pull on thegathering threads at the side seams, the cen-ter front and the center back. Pull the threadsuntil they are the same length as the band.Work with the gathers until they are even.Baste and stitch along half-inch fold on theskirt band.

Top stitch the bandFold the double section of your band

toward the back and baste the edge of theband to the skirt. Baste it so the folded edgehangs just below the stitching you just madeon the front side of the band. Machine stitchfrom the front side of the band. Place thestitching as near the edge of the band as you

can. Press before you stitch. Pressing willflatten the seam and make stitching easier.

d''.

,1

t

/11 /)/,J1!

Press your skirtPress your skirt. Use a dampened cheese-

cloth and an iron set for ironing cotton, oruse a steam iron. A skirt must be wellpressed and fresh looking to be pretty.

Fastenings for the skirtSee Phase 2.

Gored skirtYou may make a four-gored skirt. If you

do, you will need a pattern. Follow the in-structions on the guide sheet.

School dressThis is your first dress. Avoid set-in

sleeves, collars, yokes, and gussets. Use cot-ton fabrics. Study the instruction sheet inyour pattern and follow it as closely as youcan. Know what every mark on the patternmeans before you start to sew. This willmake it easier for you.

Pin your cloth so it is straight. Place thepattern on the "straight of the grain" andcut with long, even strokes. Cut all thenotches pointing out.

After the cloth is cut, transfer the marksonto the fabric before removing the pattern.Use a tracing wheel whenever possible. Usetailor's tacks on white or pastel colors.

Stay-stitch around all the bias and curvededges as soon as you remove the pattern.

Remember to press as you sew. Press eachseam as it is made. Pressing makes sewingeasier and improves the looks of your dress,

Hem your dress on the sewing machine ifit has a full gathered skirt or by hand onflared or straight skirts or on plain coloredfabric. Use a matching thread.

How does your costume look to you?ONCE AGAIN, score your own and other

club members' work. Record your judg-ing on your own work in your record book.These are the points to use in judging.

Your score1.Fabric or trimming used 25

Is it suitable for school or play?Will it launder?Will it wear well?

2. Workmanship 35Are they well made?Are seams, hems, finishes

good choices?

12

1. Design and color 20

Are design and color attractive?Are they right for you?

4. Condition of article 10

Is it clean?Is it well pressed?

5. Value of garment .. 10Is there good value for the

time and money spent?

100

Tips for easier sewing

Trace guide lines on fabric After all marked stitches have been made,remove pattern, separate fabric carefully, and

G PAPER clip threads between the two layers of fabric.

PATTER- -

Stay-stitch the bias edges

IT TAKES very little time to trace themarkings for darts, seams, and button-

holes from the pattern on the fabric if dress-makers' carbon and a tracing wheel are used.Trace the markings while the pattern is stillpinned to the fabric. Place the carbon waxedside to wrong side of fabric. Both sides maybe marked at the same time. Use white orlight-colored paper wherever possible. Darkcolors have a tendency to work through tothe right side. Trace all pattern markingsthat are essential to making the dressdarts,notches, pleats, openings, and buttonholes.Use a ruler to trace straight lines. Make abar at ends of darts and tucks. Use tailor'stacks for white or pastel fabrics.

Tailor's tacks

CLIP TkROU(.W LOOPS4ORTEN N'S

Use double thread of darning cotton tomake tailor's tacks.

Before taking your first stitch make ahole in the pattern with the point of yourneedle. Take one stitch through pattern anddouble thickness of fabric, then go over withanother stitch, leaving loop and long end.

13

One of the most important steps you taketo keep the cloth from stretching out ofshape is to stay-stitch the edges. Stitch alongthe curved and bias edges. These edges wouldbe the neck, shoulders, waist, armscye, andupper hip line. Stay-stitching is done on eachpiece separately, through a single thickness.Stitch inch from the edge of the cloth, orinch from seamline.

OUTSIDE

0

r

OUTSIDE

4.

Cf N?q 54eN

CEN1fg tROPIT

Pin and sew dartsThe purpose of the dart is to shape the

fabric to the body. After the dart is properlymarked, pin the two markings together andstitch from the large end of the dart to thepoint. Near the point, guide the fabric sothat the stitches will be only a thread or twofrom the edge of the fold. Fasten the threadsby back stitching or by tying the threads.

Sew from the highest to the lowest pointor from the widest to the narrowest point,

as shown by arrows on the diagrams to pre-vent stretching during stitching.

Make strong seamsThe life of your clothing is determined

by the kind and quality of its seams. Thereare many types of seams and seam finishes.Each one has a special purpose.

Plain seam

The plain seam is the most commonlyused and is the first step in making othertypes of seams. The plain seam is made onthe wrong side of the garment. To make aplain seam, place the right sides of the fabrictogether. Pin and sew a seam the desiredwidth. This is usually inch. Follow theinstructions in your pattern. Use this seamon your blouse, skirt, and dress.

Seam finishesFinishes are used on fabrics to prevent the

edges from fraying. Use one of the followingfinishes:

14

Pinked edges

Use pinking shears, if you are able tohandle them. Trim off only the very edgeof your seam. Be very careful.

Edge stitching

After the plain seam is pressed open,machine stitch along each edge of the seam.This is a stronger finish than the pinkededge.

SelvageThe selvage may be left as a seam finish

on your skirt. Clip the selvage every 2 or 3inches. The clip should be no deeper thanj. inch. A deeper cut will ruin the seam.

Your seams are not complete until youhave pressed them. Remember, always pressa seam before joining it to another seam.

Make a fitted facingEdges that cannot be hemmed may be

finished with either bias or fitted facings.Facings can be turned to the right or wrongside of an article. They may be part of thedecoration if used on the right side.

Fifing and stitching1. Stay-stitch neck and shoulders.2. Insert a basting line to mark center

front and back of the facing and blouse. Usedarning cotton.

3. Sew shoulder seams of blouse andfacing. Press.

4. Press a inch hem around the facing.Miter the corners and stitch.

5. Pin facing to blouse, matching shoulderseams and centers. Baste centers of front andof back together.

6. Machine stitcha. Stitch around the neckline, inchseam. b. Stitch center front. Start atpoint inch from center fold, stitch topoint B. B. is almost on center fold.Turn, take 3 small stitches (14-16/inch),turn again, and stitch to point C, inchfrom center fold.

7. Cut along center fold to point B. Trimneck seam to inch and clip seam every

inch.

8. Trim off corners at neck openings.

9. Turn facing and press. After facingedge is finished, tack it to the shoulder seamof blouse.

Finishing edgesIf the facing is to be used for decoration,

the edge of the facing will be stitched tothe blouse or dress.

Make good hems

Straight hemsYou made straight hems on your scarf and

on your apron last year. Here is a generalreview on how to make a hem. If you needmore help, see your last year's bulletin.

Narrow hemsMake a fold 1 inch wide; press. Fold this

over and press again. Pin and stitch.

15

Wide hemsMake a 1-inch fold along the edge. Then

measure the width your hem is to be whenfinished. Pin, press, and stitch.

Hems for your skirt and dress

1. Use a yardstick or other device tomeasure the distance you want your skirtfrom the floor. Mark with pins, about 3inches apart around the skirt.

2. Fold along the pin-line. Pin and bastealong edges of hem. Pin top of hem to skirt.

3. Try the dress on to check length andevenness of hem.

4. Trim hem to desired width. The widthof the hem is determined by weight of fabricand fullness of skirt.

Suggested widths

Moderately flared andmedium weight . 2 to 3 inches

Straight skirt ofsheer fabric -------------------- up to 4 inches

Heavy skirts ofwool or cotton ------------ 2 inches or less

Flared skirts ------------------------------------ l inchesCircle skirts -------------------- * inch or rolled

5. In circular skirts the top of the hemis always much fuller than the bottom of thehem. To avoid a bulge, draw this fullnessto lie flat against the skirt. Lengthen thestitch on the machine and sew around topof the hem inch from the edge. Place an-other row of stitches inch from the firstrow. Pin the seams and centers of panelsand draw the bobbin thread until the toppart of hem is only slightly larger than theskirt. Ease in the fullness. This step is notnecessary on straight skirts.

6. Make a i-inch fold at the top of thehem. Machine stitch along edge. Pin andbaste in place. Hem on the machine or byhand. Use matching thread.

Blind hemming

1. Fasten thread securely in the hem.

2. Take a stitch directly across from thespot where you first placed your thread.Then take a -inch stitch through the top ofthe hem.

16--

3. Take a stitch in the skirt in the samespot where you pulled needle from the hem.

4. Repeat for each stitch.This stitch hides the threads in hem and

wears well.

Choose fastenings youcan make yourself

What type of fasteners does your patternsuggest? You have skill enough now to makeany one of several types. Remember, choosethe kind of fasteners you can make yourselfand do them the very best you can.

You have already learned the method ofsewing on buttons, snaps, and hooks andeyes. If you use any of the fasteners, sewthem on securely. See Phase 2. Make yourbuttonholes with a machine attachment.

A zipper may be necessary if you make adress. Read the instructions that come withyour zipper and study your pattern for helpin putting it in your dress.

Belt keepersYou might like to put belt loops on your

dress at the side seam if your dress has a belt.Worked ioops are fun to make.

1. Use matching double thread.2. Hold the belt in place on dress and

loop thread back and forth across it three orfour times. Take a knot stitch each time yousew into fabric.

3. Remove the belt.4. Work across the threads with blanket

stitch. Keep stitches close together.

Select a belt for your dress at your localstore or have one made to match your dress.You will learn to make belts when you havehad more experience in sewing.

Complete your record bookYour record book is important. Are you

enjoying keeping a record of the things youmake and do? Have you recorded the articlesyou have made? Have you recorded the ac-tivities you have participated in on your per-manent record? How complete is this chapterof your 4-H Club story? Are there otherthings you should addwhile you can stillremember?

Are you keeping a scrapbook of picturesand newspaper clippings to round-out your4-H Club story? Are you keeping other kindsof things such as certificates and ribbons inyour scrapbook? If you belong to more thanone club are you keeping all of the thingsthat have to do with each project together?

Show others what you have learnedExhibits

Showing others what you have made canbe fun. Plan with your club to have a displayfor your mothers and fathers. Share withthem the things you have learned in makingyour projects. If you exhibit at the fair yourexhibit will be the main article you made.Be sure that it is clearly labeled so thatit can be returned to you.

Give a demonstration

Select one of the demonstrations youprepared for your club or prepare a new one.Here are a few suggestions from which youmight choose.

Gathers for a gathered skirt

Laying the pattern on the fabric

How to stay-stitch

How to thread and use a sewing machine

Make a hem for a straight skirtThere are many opportunities to share Seams for dresses, blouses, and skirts

the things you have learned with others byHow to make a swimming baggiving demonstrations. Watch for these op-

portunitiesother than your club meetings. How to make a head scarf

Are you ready for the next project?1. Have you kept your record book up to

date and had it signed?

2. Have you studied health and goodgrooming?

3. Have you made two or more articles?

Keep this bulletin. You will need it foryour next project. When you have completedall the 4-H clothing projects, you will havea complete sewing book.

THE 4-H CLUB PLEDGE

I pledge

my HEAD to clearer thinking

my HEART to greater loyalty

my HANDS to larger service

my HEALTH to better living

for my club, my community, and my country.

THE 4-H CLUB MOTTO

To make the best better.

Cooperative Extenon work in Agriculture and Home Economics, F. E. Price director, Oregon StatetJversity nd the United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. Printed and distributed in

of Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 9l4. 12M-September 96t.