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SENTIERI & SAPORI Cinque Terre, Golfo dei Poeti, Val di Magra & Val di Vara twelve itineraries

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  • SENTIERI &

    SAPO

    RI

    Cinque Terre, G

    olfo dei Poeti, Val di M

    agra & Val di Vara

    t w e l v ei t i n e r a r i e s

  • 3

    ConceivingDamiano Pinelli

    SupervisionDamiano PinelliStefano Senese

    CoordinationThomas De Luca

    TextsThomas De Luca, Associazione TuttiFrutti (food and drinks)

    English textsArte e Natura - La Spezia

    PhotographsArchivio fotografico Stl Terra e Riviera dei Poeti, Archivio fotografico della Provincia dellaSpezia, Archivio fotografico del Parco nazionale delle Cinque Terre, Archivio fotografico delComune di Lerici, Archivio fotografico Sagep, A. Orsi, M. Pasini, D. Marcesini, T. De Luca

    Graphic and page layoutSagep Editori

    Printed in June 2013by Grafiche G7 sas for Sagep Editori srl

    Cartographic processing on Liguria Region maps by Luca Galuppini, for Club Alpino Italiano –La Spezia department

    © 2013 Sagep Editoriwww.sagep.it

    CLUB ALPINO ITALIANOSezione della Spezia V.le G. Amendola, 19619122 La Spezia

    INDICE

    TRAIL NO. 1The green blue trail 6

    TRAIL NO. 2Overlooking the Cinque Terre 8

    TRAIL NO. 3The Towns of the Cinque Terre 10

    TRAIL NO. 4The Poet’s Trail 12

    TRAIL NO. 5From La Spezia to the Magra River, walking above the sea 14

    TRAIL NO. 6From the castles overlooking the sea to the Val di Magra 16

    TRAIL NO. 7From Varese Ligure to Monte Porcile 18

    TRAIL NO. 8From Brugnato to Zignago’s parish church 20

    TRAIL NO. 9A Two-Day Tour: Val di Vara by Bicycle 22

    TRAIL NO. 10On the Pilgrim’s Trail 24

    TRAIL NO. 11From Sarzana to Luni, pedalling through history 26

    TRAIL NO. 12The Sunny Hills 28

    FOOD & DRINK 32

    CONSORTIA 38

    FACILITIES 42

  • Walking and pedalling along splendid trails between thesea and valleys of La Spezia province and stopping forrefreshment with the area’s typical products and cuisineaccompanied by a glass of wine from the renowned localwine cellars is the best way to come across the beauties ofthis part of Liguria, now reborn after the natural calamitiesthat struck it in October 2011. Today, the world is returningto visit the Cinque Terre and Porto Venere UNESCO WorldHeritage Site, the Poets’ Gulf, the nature parks and valleysof the Magra and Vara Rivers. Here you can see foryourself that the land and its inhabitants have recapturedtheir former glory, and in some cases have even improvedon the past, with more attention paid to safety as concernsinfrastructures and trails and a renewed sense ofhospitality. On offering visitors the occasion to becomeacquainted with the local nature, culture and cuisine, theinhabitants and operators are well aware that they areproposing something unique and extremely precious.This is our approach to tourism and we shall be mosthonoured to welcome you soon

    Damiano PinelliPresident, Sistema Turistico Golfo dei Poeti, Val di Magra eVal di Vara

    Stefano SeneseGeneral Secretary, La Spezia Chamber of Commerce

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    We then begin the descent,first on a short stretch oftarmac road, then amidterraced vineyards down toBonassola.The town is situated on suchan inviting bay that it sufferednumerous raids by pirates inthe past.The vineyards of this areabelonging to the towns ofLevanto, Bonassola,Framura and Deiva produce adry wine with grapes warmedby the afternoon sun, whichearned it the denomination ofColline di Levanto Doc, bothfor the white and the redvarieties. The entire itinerary,the part behind us as well asthat ahead of us, is for a largepart immersed inMediterranean scrub,consisting of juniper, wintersavory and French lavenderwhich impart incomparablebouquets to the wine.At Bonassola we again comeacross the old railway line andfollow it until we reach the trailthat leads to Montaretto. Fromhere we go down the trail

    the Framura train station.From Vandarecca we gouphill to the hamlets of Anzo,Ravecca and Setta. We thenturn left onto the trail that goespast Monte Serra, flanks theso-called Scogliera degliApicchiand brings us to DeivaMarina, where in summer thepopulation increasesfive-fold.

    amidst terraced vineyards andolive groves towards Framura,a place which is and is not:we see it on maps and traintimetables, but this does notexactly correspond to reality.Framura is but five smallgroups of houses along theroad. Following the roadoverlooking the sea we cometo the villageof Vandarecca and arrive near

    In the daytime, the streets ofLevanto still maintain a certainrétro vitality and an air ofancient nobility, but thebeaches are the paradise ofsurfers and in the evenings thecentre of town lights up andthe many restaurants servetypical Ligurian cuisine tomerry young vacationersaround their tables setoutside. One of the specialities ofLevanto is the gattafin, a largeravioli stuffed with wild herbs(beet top, borage, dandelion),onion, ricotta, egg andcheese.Once back on the road wefollow a stretch of the GreenBlue Trail which connectsGenoa and Porto Venerefollowing the coastline; it starts from Levanto’s seafrontand follows the formerrailway track. The trail rises to the top ofPunta Gone and then takes usto the hamlet of Scernio, fromwhere we catch a glimpseof Bonassola.

    TRAIL NO. 1The green blue trailLevanto, the starting point ofour itinerary, became famousduring the last century as aholiday resort of Italy’s richand famous, which led to theconstruction of numerousholiday homes in the ArtNouveau style, still to be seenin many places in the area.

    6TRAIL NO. 1 The green blue trail

    Levanto · Deiva

    Difficulty 2Time 5h00’Length 12,6 km

    Fishing products.On the next pageThe sea between Levanto andDeiva Marina and Church of St.Antonio.

    1km 0 10 12,6

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    sulle coste terrazzate coltivateesclusivamente a vite. Maestosipanorami che regalano lapossibilità di vedere, nellegiornate di cielo terso, anchele isole Corsica e Gorgona.Dopo la salita per il MonteMalpertuso, la strada cominciaa ridiscendere passando per laFoce Drignana, sopra il borgodi Vernazza, fino al passo delTermine di Soviore,raggiungendo la località Colladi Gritta. In questo ultimo trat to ilpercorso coincide con la stradacarrozzabile per Levanto. Ilsegnavia numero 1 vi conducesino a un ristorante, dove èpossibile gustare i piatti dellatradizione ligure, sia di terrache di mare.Poco distante, lungo la stradache porta a Levanto, si troval’imbocco del sentiero numero12, quello da seguire sino allameta. Il primo tratto è un ripidocammino che percorre unosterrato in discesa fra icast agni e i pini. Finito ilbosco, vi accolgono gli uliveti,coltura che dalla costa

    sapori molteplici che sipossono ritrovare sulla tavolaguarnita con piatti che hannomantenuto intatte lecaratteristiche di una lungatradizione. Dal pesto, alle tortedi verdura, dalle acciugheripiene, alle cozze allamarinara, sia che si scelga ilmenù di terra sia che siprediliga quello di mare,trovare il vinodall’abbiname nto perfetto saràun gioco da ragazzi.

    raggiunge località Fontona.Da qua il percorso coincidecon un’antica mulattiera e sulfinire attraversa un ponticellodi sasso ad arcata.A questopunto il tragitto ritorna sullastrada asfaltata provincialefino alla città di Levanto,circondata dalle viti del Collinedi Levanto Doc.Dai boschi alla spiaggia ilpercorso vi ha così condottoattraverso le mille sfaccettatur edi questo territorio stupendo,

    Nazionale delle Cinque Terre,ma è anche meta delle gitefuori porta dei buongustai dicittà, che apprezzanopanigacci e cucina casalinga.Se volete passeggiareimboccate la via segnalatadalla tabella numero 3, inprossimità della chiesa di SanMartino, e arrivate, passandosotto castagni e pini marittimi,in località Colle del telegrafo. A questo punto prendete comeriferiment o il segnavia numero1, che ci porterà in quotadall’altra parte delle CinqueTerre.Il cammino si snoda su unsentiero di crinale toccando i785 metri del Monte Capri.Proprio in prossimità di questasommità c’è una delle piùantiche testimonianze dellapresenza dell’uomo nellazona: un menhir del periodomegalitico. Il percorso vi portain mezzo a boschi di pinomarittimo e macchie diginestrone, ma non mancan oaffacci mozzafiato sul mare,sul borgo di Riomaggiore e

    ITINERARIO 2Sorvolando leCinque TerreIl percorso parte da Biassa,una delle frazioni collinari piùantiche della Spezia.Facilmente raggiungibileusando le corriere di linea, ilborgo è un nodo significativoper le escursioni verso il Parco

    8ITINERARIO 2 Sorvolando le Cinque Terre

    Levanto.Nella pagina a fiancoLa Spezia, panorama.Prodotti tipici.

    Biassa · Levanto

    Difficulty 2Time 9h30’Length 25,6 km

    Km0 1 10 15 205 25,6

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    Manarola we turn left in thedirection of the marina belowthe Punta Bonfiglio park. Atthe spot where the old andnew stretches of trail 1 meet,it becomes a flat dirt roadand follows the beach oflarge rounded stones atCorniglia, where the watersof the marine protected areashow off all their crystalclearness.After passing the Cornigliatrain station we go up the“Lardarina” steps to thevillage. The trail passes alongthe outside of the old centre,where vineyards alternatewith vegetable gardens and

    olive trees, anothercharacteristic feature of thelandscape, with their fruits anessential part of the localcuisine. We cross the Riodella Groppa and arriveabove the beach at Guvano.Leaving behind us the cliffs atMacereto covered withagave and cactus, we cometo the crossroads with trailnumber 7 and once againfind the terraced vineyardsbasking in the sun where wecatch site of the highest towerof Vernazza. Further on, thetrail continues at 150 to 200metres above the blue sea.On approaching Monterosso,

    TRAIL NO. 3The Towns of theCinque TerreThe itinerary enters theCinque Terre National Parkand winds along the terracedlands and villages whichwere put under the protectionof the UNESCO as a World

    Heritage Site owing to theincredible equilibriumreached over the centuries bythe inhabitants with theirenvironment, represented bysteep slopes with terracedvineyards down to the sea,one of the most characteristicfeatures of the land.But in addition to its qualitywines and Sciacchetrà, adense full-bodied sweetwine, the Cinque Terre alsocaptivates visitors with itsgreat seafood dishes, firstand foremost the Monterossoanchovies and specialitiesbased on juicy yellowlemons that ripen perfectly inthe setting sun. If we leavethe table and put on ourtrekking shoes, we can visitall the villages of the CinqueTerre by following a singletrail. It is marked as number2 on the map and starts inthe square behind theRiomaggiore train station.The first part is the renownedVia dell’Amore (Lovers’Walk). On arriving at

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    Riomaggiore ·Monterosso

    Difficulty 1Time 4h30’Length 10,2 km

    Grape harvesting in the Cinque Terre.On the next pageVernazza and Riomaggiore. the terraces become more

    and more populated withcitrus groves: we areentering the realm of theMonterosso lemonscelebrated with a festivalevery year on the thirdSaturday of May. But at thispoint we must not give in tofatigue but decide to go onto Punta Mesco, with itspanorama encompassing allfive villages of the CinqueTerre rising on the ridges ofhigh cliffs, a landscape ofdelicate and soft hues, animmense human work of artwhich you have justexperienced.

    TRAIL NO. 3 The Towns of the Cinque Terre

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    reach the village of Biassa,whose inhabitants are said topossess two houses: one in thevillage and one on the otherside of the mountain, on theprecipitous coast of Tramonti,where they have beengrowing grapes for centuries.Then we continue along thetrail with an alternation ofuphill and downhill stretchesleading to the Passo dellaFoce, which offers a view ofthe city of La Spezia and the entire gulf.From this point on we canchoose from among manydifferent paths leaving the highroad and going down to LaSpezia, but if we continuealong the trail we can visit theparish churches of Marinascoor the hamlets of Sarbia andValeriano: it is a very relaxing,even contemplative, part of thetrail offering excellent views ofLa Spezia’s inlets andhinterland. La Spezia is theprovincial capital offering awealth of services. Its originsare remote, but in the last twocenturies the city has grownand changed its appearance.The Genoese domination inthe past did not allow thissmall coastal settlement todevelop, but the change camewith the arrival of Napoleonwho decided to build anarsenal in the gulf. Today, thecity offers a combination ofexcellent museums andbuildings in the Art Nouveaustyle, with its old centre

    reserved to pedestrians andfull of life, especially in thesummer evenings.Besides all the dishes of theLigurian cuisine (from thegreen pesto sauce to thefocaccia) in La Spezia’spizzerias we can enjoy thefarinata, a crisp puff pastry

    made with chickpea flour andolive oil, while there are stillmany inns serving mesciua, atypical soup with chickpeas,cannellini beans, dried broadbeans, grass peas andemmer, with a pinch of blackpepper and a trickle of extravirgin olive oil.

    in La Spezia’s gulf area, comefrom the mussel farms just afew tens of metres from thecoast in the PortoVenerechannel. For a good day’swalk, we leave the towngoing up the steps to the rightof the town’s gate, once theonly way to get through thesplendid row of buildings.Following the red and whitemarkers of the Alta Via delGolfo which will accompanyus the entire way, we gouphill towards Campigliathrough the Porto Venereregional nature park. Alongthe way we can enjoy thebreathtaking views of theMonte Muzzerone cliff andthe islets of Palmaria andTino, gaze with amazement atthe vineyards in the valley ofAlbana and be fascinated bythe terraced coast of Schiara,with its wine cellars clingingto the slopes between landand sea. Continuing along anold trail along the ridge andsurrounded by woodland, we

    TRAIL NO. 4The Poets’ Trail The cuisine of Porto Venereand the islands of thearchipelago is a triumph ofseafood of all kinds,especially mussels, offered asseasoning, appetizers or asthe tastiest of main courses,alla marinara or stuffed.“Muscoli” as they are called

    12TRAIL NO. 4 The Poets’ Trail

    Alta Via del GolfoTrail 1

    Difficulty 2Time 6h00’Length 18 km

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    Porto Venere.On the next pagePorto Venere, the Church of San Pietro.Tramonti.The Gulf of La Spezia.

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    see the Genoese castle of PortoVenere with the islets ofPalmaria, Tino and Tinetto,while in the foreground rises thevillage of Lerici whose imposingtower once represented theramparts of the possessions ofthe city of Pisa in this land. AndLerici is the village that at theend of each summer istransformed into a sort ofcapital of Liguria’s seafoodcuisine with the Mytiliadefestival, a great cultural andgastronomic appointment at thecentre of which are mussels, thetheme of conferences,excursions, studies and themain ingredient of recipes.Leaving Lerici behind us, we gouphill to Monte Gruzza wherewe enter in the MontemarcelloRegional Nature Park. Whenwe reach the top of MonteMurlo we can visit thebotanical garden with its wildMediterranean bush and gazein awe at the 360-degreepanorama that greets us: aview that includes the mouth ofthe Magra River and thejagged peaks of the Apuan

    periods: over the century it hasnever lost its importance owingto its enviable position andmild climate. Finally, we gothrough a stand of holm oakand then downhill to the villageof Bocca di Magra at themouth of the river.

    Alps. Going on, we pass bythe ancient village ofMontemarcello, whose nameapparently comes from that ofthe Roman consul ClaudiusMarcellus. The hamletdeserves close inspection tofind evidence of its different

    The Alta Via del Golfo.On the next pageLerici.Typical products.

    grown in the last sixty years, isindicative of the convulsivedevelopment of our times. Justas variegated is the cuisine wecan scent in the houses andrestaurants of the centre, wherehistorical inns faithful to traditionalternate with restaurantsoffering the best Italian cuisineand pubs at their best when thetime comes for aperitifs.To reach the Magra, we walk toSan Venerio, the starting pointfor our excursion along the highAlta Via del Golfo in thedirection of Bocca di Magra. Inthis stretch we can seevineyards cultivatedeverywhere, albeit sporadically:every vegetable garden has itsvines and every house has itssmall wine cellar. This is thespirit from which come the manylabels of the excellent ‘Golfo deiPoeti’ PGI wines. Now we go slightly uphill to theCisterna Pass and then downtowards the village of Pugliola.In this stretch, the view is onceagain spectacular: in thebackground to the right we can

    TRAIL NO. 5From La Spezia to theMagra River, walkingabove the seaThe urban fabric of La Speziashows its development in threequite different periods. The oldmedieval nucleus is surroundedby the orthogonal city built inthe 19th and 20th centuries.The eastern part, which has

    14TRAIL NO. 5 From La Spezia to the Magra River, walking above the sea

    Alta Via del GolfoTrail 2

    Difficulty 2Time 6h30’Length 21 km

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    promontory, the town issplendidly conserved and astroll through its narrow streetsgives the impression of beingpart of a painting by a naiveartist. In the surrounding areanature is the leading feature withthe uncontaminated coves ofPunta Corvo and the botanicalgarden of the Montemarcello-Magra Nature Park.

    Immersed in greenery, webegin our descent towardsBocca di Magra. At a certainpoint the panorama opens upas if seen through a windowoverlooking the mouth of theriver and the Apuan Alps,jagged and mysterious.Continuing along provincialroad 30, we approachAmeglia, a town of Roman

    TRAIL NO. 6From the castlesoverlooking the sea tothe Val di Magra

    TRAIL NO. 6From the castlesoverlooking the sea tothe Val di MagraWe saddle up at San Terenzo,a small village of sea andpoetry, and pedal easily toLerici along a path that inspiredwriters and romantic poets suchas Byron and Shelley. From thesea emerges a breathtakingpanorama on the opposingheadland of the Poet’s Gulf,with Porto Venere and its islets,which sweeps to the left whererise villas with an aristocraticpast and olive groves dottingthe steep slopes.Extra virgin olive oil, here as inthe entire area, is one of the itsmain products together with

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    origins which reached its peakin the High Middle Ages andwhich today appears as asmall, precious jewel. Aftercrossing the Magra, on the leftbank we come to Fiumaretta,prevalently a seaside resort,and after another two kilometreswe come to the end of our biketour at Marinella di Sarzana,with its important plantation.

    TRAIL NO. 6 From the castles overlooking the sea to the Val di Magra

    Bike/San Terenzo ·Marinella

    Difficulty 2Time 3h30’Length 32 km

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    wine. But it is from the sea thatcomes the product to which thetown of Lerici has decided topay homage at the end of everysummer with a festival featuringfood sampling, traditions,recipes and meetings. We arespeaking of the Mytiliade, theannual festival dedicated tomussels which are the realtreasure of the gulf, withoffshore mussel farms in differentareas.On leaving Lerici we go uptowards the Belvedere andimmediately come to thecrossroads to Tellaro. We reach the end of our biketour continuing uphill, but theview is certainly worth the effort.Tellaro, which rises on the rocksjutting into the sea, is on the listof Italy’s most beautiful villages.Among the enchanting viewswe cannot overlook the churchsurrounded by the sea, anedifice connected to a legend ofcenturies ago: an enormousoctopus seized the church’s bellropes and warned thepopulation of the arrival of theSaracens. And the octopus is atthe centre of the festival thatenlivens the town’s evenings.Returning to the main trail, wecome to the crossroads thatleads to Montemarcello, anothervillage on the list of Italy’s mostbeautiful villages. Situated at theend of the Caprionem 31

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    for Codivara and come to theBiscia Pass, the starting pointof our excursion.A dirt road begins on theright: it is closed by a barrierto avoid the transit ofautomobiles, but not that ofpeople on foot, so we cantake it with no trouble.The road is level and offersmany beautiful views: to thenorth the massif of MontePenna, with Monte Aiona andMonte Zatta. To the south-westrises the profile of the heightsabove the Ligurian Rivieraand to the east we can see

    which to admire amarvellous panorama: on theclearest days it gives a viewof the sea, the town of SestriLevante on the coast, theislands of the Tuscanarchipelago and Corsica.At this point we go backdownhill to visit the town ofVarese Ligure and the othersof the region, takingadvantage of the manyshops offering typicalproducts to be enjoyed whilesitting at the tables of themany holiday farms in thevalley.

    the dominating figure ofmajestic Monte Gottero.It takes about an hour and aquarter on foot to reachMonte Porcile, withvegetation characteristic ofthis altitude, with stands ofbeech and pine. On returning to the sunnyprairies, we leave the roadnear some abandonedbuildings which were onceminers’ houses. From here wego up a trail at a brisk paceand arrive about half an hourlater at the top of the hill.This is the best place from

    At the centre of this greenlung is the “round village” ofVarese Ligure, a uniqueexample of a settlementfounded so as to represent afortification. Here we can seethe elliptical layout designedby the Fieschi family onwhich were built masonryhouses with no aperturestowards the outside.On regretfully leaving thissplendid town we can chooseone of many trails goingthrough the surroundingareas which can be travelledon foot, horseback and bybicycle. One of the mostfascinating is the one thatleads to the slopes of MontePorcile, going through shadychestnut tree woodlands andvast stretches of sunnypasture land offering views ofthe grandiose amphitheatreof mountains through whichflows the Vara river in itsupper part.Going up the valley by cartowards the source of theVara, we pass the crossroads

    TRAIL NO. 7From Varese Ligure toMonte PorcileIn the heart of the Val di Varawe find the enchanting townof Varese Ligure, whose landswere recognized as Europe’sfirst ecological community in1991.Today, the valley is known asthe Organic Valley thanks toits agricultural and animalhusbandry methods thatexploit the specialgenuineness of this land, withgreen woodlands, pasturesand wild vegetation throughwhich flows the Vara river.Products include manyvarieties of beans typical ofthe valley, potatoes, cheesesand meats, as well aschestnuts and mushrooms.

    18TRAIL NO. 7 From Varese Ligure to Monte Porcile

    The “Round village” of VareseLigure.On horseback in the Val di Vara.On the previous pageVarese Ligure.

    Varese · Monte Porcile

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    made with sweet dough andflavoured with wild fennel,one of the favourite delicaciesof film director Mario Soldati.In the many restaurants liningthe caruggi, the old town’snarrow streets, we can enjoytypical Ligurian dishes.For those who visit Brugnatowith the idea of stretchingtheir legs on the highlandsabove the centre of town, werecommend a long walk tothe parish church of Zignago,an ancient suburb wheresheep-breeding is stillwidespread.The trail is marked 18/a. To reach it, follow the ViaMacero, in the western partof Brugnato. After almost 200metres we come to acrossroads where we leavethe main road by turningright into the Via Bozzolo. The paved road goes up to acrossroads leading to a smallcemetery. On leaving the Via Bozzolo where there is asmall shrine dedicated toSaint Anthony, we take arather narrow road that goesthrough vegetable gardensand pastures. With a holidayfarm on our left, we go up toa small saddle and thendownhill. The dirt road goesthrough a landscapefeaturing low and sparse

    vegetation. Then we gouphill along the so-called viadi boeu, so named becauseit was used by the people ofZignago to take their oxen tomarket. Farther on, the roadcrosses trail 8, known as theVia da Tramonte (thenorthern trail). We continueuphill along a road that goes

    through a thick stand of pinetrees up to the top of theTaramaschi coast, where themule track turns into an well-kept dirt road. From here wecontinue along apparentlyflat ground that circles MonteZignago and then goesdown to Zignago’s parishchurch.

    TRAIL NO. 8From Brugnato toZignago’s parishchurchA town of very ancientorigins on the left bank of the

    20TRAIL NO. 8 From Brugnato to Zignago’s parish church

    Brugnato · Zignago

    Difficulty 2Time 2h40’Length 5,82 km

    The Alta Via. Brugnato.On the previous pageBrugnato, the roman bridge.

    Vara River, today Brugnato isone of the most visitedlocalities of the Val di Varaowing not only to its culturalheritage but also to itstraditional products, theexcursions provided by thetrails and surroundingwoodlands and thepossibility of experiencingthe thrill of rafting with localexperts. In the year 999 AD,Brugnato was granted thetitle of city and today it is onthe list of Italy’s mostbeautiful villages. Its centre iselliptical in shape andsurrounds the bishop’s citadelas a circular fortified town.Brugnato’s cuisine isoutstanding: it offers typicalcheeses made in the localdairy and cold meatsproduced by many smallsausage and salami makers.Besides the omnipresent“focaccia” and rice andvegetable pastries, the localbakeries also producecanestrelli brugnatesi, sweetsm 100

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    heart of the Val di Vara, alsoknown as the Organic Valleyowing to its many crops andbreeding farms all managedaccording to nature. It has avocation for healthy foodsrediscovered more thantwenty years ago which hasled to a tasty and muchappreciated process ofexploiting and marketingtypical products of the area. After a few kilometres wecome to Borghetto Vara andimmediately after toBrugnato, once a bishop’ssee, where we can stop for avisit to the town’s historicalcathedral. Continuing alongstate road 1, we go throughthe small town of SestaGodano, set on the slopes ofMonte Gottero, the highestpeak in the province, andthen reach San Pietro Vara,an important crossroadsleading to the landsbelonging to Genoa. Now the road takes usthrough fields andwoodlands, with views of theLigurian Appenines in theprovince of La Spezia, andthen to Varese Ligure, thesplendid “Round Village”.We cannot omit a stop hereto rest body and spirit at oneof the restaurants or holiday

    farms of the area. Here wefind cheeses, vegetables,legumes, but also meat: locallamb and kid and therenowned black rooster. The food is almost allproduced locally and is oflocal origin. Many of theproducts used and offeredhave been grown and raisedin the fields of this greencorner of Liguria forcenturies and centuries.Then back on the saddle tobacktrack, at least till wecome to Sesta Godano. We go on towardsCarrodano and then,proceeding up a hill ofregular slope we reach theBracchetto Pass. Then we come to the MarianSanctuary of Roverano andthen downhill following the

    TRAIL NO. 9A Two-Day Tour: Valdi Vara by BicycleOur bike tour begins atBottagna, where the riversVara and Magra join forces.We set off in the direction ofPiana Battolla (Osteria

    22TRAIL NO. 9 A Two-Day Tour: Val di Vara by Bicycle

    Bike/Bottagna · LaSpezia

    Difficulty 2Time 2 daysLength 106 km

    Marchesi, Ceparana), afterwhich we come to Cavanellaand the ancient village ofOltre Vara. A short ridealong the left bank of theriver takes us to the bridge atRamello and from there wereturn to the Aurelia road.We are entering into the

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    On the next pageFieschi Family’s Castle.Local cheeses.

    Pogliasca stream toBorghetto.After reaching Padivarmaand crossing the bridge overthe Vara, we continuetowards Beverino to visit themedieval village followingthe Val Graveglia. The FocePass takes us into the land ofthe village and here we havea choice:we can go uphill in thedirection of Monte Parodiand then down to La Speziawith a view that ranges fromthe Apuan Alps to the Gulf,or go up to the Visseggi Passand then down to theimportant parish church ofMarinasco, dedicated toSaint Stephen, where we canadmire a unique view of LaSpezia’s town’s layout, hillsand arsenal.

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    Monte Cornoviglio, whichoverlooks the Val di Vara, theLunigiana region, the Gulf ofla Spezia and the Apuan Alps. Continuing along the oldmuletrack we reach MonteAlpicella, almost entirelycovered by pine trees, whichwere planted at the beginningof last century to block erosioncaused by previousdeforestations.Along the descent towardsthe Valico dei Solini, the roadturns into a narrow path for ashort stretch, where oaks andchestnut trees to keep uscompany along the way. On the right towards thevalley appears Bolano.On reaching Tirolo afterpassing olive groves andvineyards scattered here andthere, we leave the Alta Viaand continue along the pavedroad in the direction of Santo

    Calice.Sarzana.On the next pagePonzano Magra.

    Stefano Magra: right after thebridge overthe river we turn and take the scenic road thatfollows the river.Here we come touncontaminated meanderspopulated by many waterfowl.We approach the centre of thevillage, where the S4 trailstarts. In little more than anhour it will take us to PonzanoSuperiore, a small town withancient origins, perhapsdating back to Roman times. Somebelieve it derives from thename of the Roman consulCaius Pontius Ligo. It is certainly worth a visitowing to its cultural heritageand cuisine. Since 1975 this iswhere the Sagra dellaScherpada takes place; it isthe festival of traditionalvegetable pastries, with theconsumption of thousands of

    where we will find outstandingdishes with mushrooms,chestnuts, game and cheeses toenjoy with honey from the hivesfound everywhere in thesevalleys.Setting out, we leave behindthe vast pine wood thatcharacterizes the suburbs ofCasoni and enter the cartwaywith the red and white AVmarker which takes us to theslightly higher altitude of 1042metres at the Sella di SanGenesio. From here on theroad to Sarzana is almost alldownhill.Crossing large pastures framedby broom bushes alternatingwith more wooded areas, wecan enjoy more than onebeautiful view of the villageof Calice al Cornoviglio with itsimposing castle rising above;by going a little way off themain path we can admire

    TRAIL NO. 10On the Pilgrims’ TrailWe travel to Casoni diSuvero by public transport,where we begin our trek. Ifthere is time for a meal it iscertainly a good idea to stopat one of the many typicalrestaurants or holiday farms

    24TRAIL NO. 10 On the Pilgrims’ Trail

    Casoni · Sarzana

    Difficulty 1Time 1h30’Length 34,1 km

    these delicacies which are amust for visitors.From Ponzano we begin tofollow the Via Francigena,which leads down towardsSarzana.At the halfway point we cometo the remains of the Castellodella Brina. This stronghold was onceimportant in controlling andprotecting pilgrims andcollecting tolls. A little farther on we come tothe outskirts of Sarzana, atown with a rich heritage andmany vestiges not only of itshistory.In the cafes and restaurants ofits well-maintained old centrewe can enjoy the typicalLigurian and Lunigiana cuisine,but the dish that stands out inSarzana is the spongata, asweet pastry with fruit and jam.

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    uphill towards the ancientvillage of Castelnuovo Magra.This town, which was awardedthe Orange Flag by the ItalianTouring Club, has anunmistakeable profile, withhouses boxed in like jewels bythe walls dominated by thekeep of the ancient castle.From Castelnuovo we enjoy abreathtaking 360-degree view,but we cannot linger for longbecause a visit to the region’spublic wine cellar awaits us,with its bottles that representLiguria’s registered designationof origin wines. The specialized personnel andprofessional sommeliers are onhand to offer us a taste of thewines, starting with theVermentino produced in thenearby Luni hills.Leaving the town, we return inthe direction of the MagraPlain, where we take the ViaOlmarello. After two kilometreswe come to the crossroads thatlead to the towns of Nicolaand Ortonovo, or go downhillstraight to the final destinationof our tour, Luni’s

    The olive harvest.On the next pageThe Fortress of Sarzanello.Luni, the roman amphitheatre.

    archaeological area, whichwas one of the most beautifuland prosperous Romancolonies in North Italy, whosesplendour derives from the useof the white marble of Carraradiscovered by its inhabitantsand the importance the townhad in the economy with its

    such as panigacci andtestaroli, the cold meats,cheeses, salty pastries andtraditional winter sweets suchas the spongata, allaccompanied by red and whitewines produced on the hills weshall visit along the way. So,back on our bikes, we leavethe centre of Sarzana and goin the direction of the Fortressof Sarzanello, a strongholdthat dominates the MagraValley which was once abishop’s see and often at thecentre of conflicts in the area.At this point we begin thedescent that takes us toCaniparola, a town beyondthe border between Liguriaand Tuscany. After anotherhundred metres the borderonce again passes under ourwheels as we take the road

    TRAIL NO. 11From Sarzana toLuni, pedallingthrough historyOur bike tour begins inSarzana, a city whose originsgo far back into the past butwhich looks ahead to thefuture. The old centre is amixture of medievalarchitecture and 19th-centuryelegance, bearing witness tothe most important periods ofthis city in the Val di Magra.There are other attractions wecannot overlook: those of thedining table. Sarzana standsin the lower part of the valleywhere we find the traditions ofthe Lunigiana hinterland full offlavours with a long historywhich we can enjoy in theproducts typical of the area

    26TRAIL NO. 11 From Sarzana to Luni, pedalling through history

    Bike/Sarzana · Luni

    Difficulty 2Time 2h30’Length 21 km

    0 1 2 km

    strategic position. Today, thatperiod of magnificence andpower is borne witness to bythe splendid amphitheatre andthe many objects brought tolight during excavations ofthe ancient town, its layout,temples and villas of thearistocrats.

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    towards Marciano. At the endof the descent we can visit thesmall rural village, one of theoldest in this area; itsinhabitants show a distinctartistic sense with sculptures cutinto river stones all along theonly road, but we must notforget to take a short detour tothe fascinating valle dei mulini(valley of the mills) along theBettigna stream. The streamflows in the midst of beechesand oaks and forms smallwaterfalls, which in the pastsupplied the power necessaryfor the crushing of olives andthe grinding of chestnuts andwheat. Crossing the road,which passes through severalrecently planted vineyards, we

    Castelnuovo Magra, the Enotecapubblica, Liguria Region’s wineshop.On the previous pageThe vineyards of CastelnuovoMagra and the Magra river.

    take a mule track that leads usto an area of recentarchaeological excavationswhich have brought to light arural villa of Roman times anda necropolis. Returning to thecarriage road we come to thecharming and solitary Churchof Santa Rosa, built in the XVIIcentury. From here we takeanother mule track to arrive atthe Colline del Sole (the SunnyHills) in the area of Sarticola,where grape growing is thepredominant occupation: fromhere comes most of theproduction of the “Colli diLuni” DOC wines. Beyond thelow hill we see Ortonovo, thedestination of our itinerary, thevillage of Nicola and other

    From the village centre, whichhas been awarded the orangeflag of the Touring Club ofItaly, we take the trail markedC2 with red and white stripeswhich goes in the directionof Vallecchia: it is a short levelstretch framed by stone pines.At the end of the walls the trailstarts going uphill.With a panorama of the riverMagra and a view of thesandy coast, which from theLiguria region passes on toTuscany, the trail goes pastolive groves on the hillsideand comes to the small villageof Vallecchia after passing astand of natural cypress, aphenomenon that is unique inLiguria. From here on weleave the previous trail andtake the C1 trail that goes

    TRAIL NO. 12The Sunny HillsIn the village of CastelnuovoMagra, with its profile markedby the tower of the Bishop’sPalace and the bell tower ofthe Church of Santa MariaMagdalena (where aCrucifixion by Peter Brueghelthe Younger can be admired)we simply must visit theEnoteca pubblica (public wineshop) of the Liguria Regionand the Lunigiana territory, thetemple of the Vermentino wineof the Luni Hills which we willalso find on the tables of theholiday farms spread throughthe hills. But we must becareful: if we decide to feaston game, the choice must fallon the local red wines.

    28TRAIL NO. 12 The Sunny Hills

    Castelnuovo Magra ·Ortonovo

    Difficulty 2Time 5h00’Length 11,1 km

    impressive vineyards. Webegin our descent on a newtrail, the O8 and, afterreaching Casano, cross overthe Parmignola stream andhead towards Ortonovo,following the paved provincialroad for a short stretch. After akilometre we will see afountain on our left: from herestarts the O5 trail to Ortonovo.Its name derives from theRoman Hortus Novus andgoes back to the first farmingactivities on the hills. The sitewas known as a holidayresidence for the rich familiesof nearby Luni even before theyear 1000.

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    The MesciuaIn La Spezia, the unmistakablesymbol of gluttony isrepresented by quite a uniquedish: it is the “mesciua”, atasty mixture of chick peas,barley and cannellini beans. Tocomplete the masterpiece ofsimplicity, are also needed apinch of salt, some freshlyground pepper, a drizzle ofvery pure olive oil.It seems that the ingeniousintuition of the “mes-ciua” dishoriginates from the portenvironment, in the mists oftime.It is said that some workers incharge of unloading the cargofrom a freight vessel’s hold,thought of putting in a potsome of the grains found onboard, so that they couldrefresh themselves with a veryhot soup.Everyone in the cityembellishes the story in theirown way. It is no coincidencethat the variations are virtuallyendless. As a matter of fact,how is it possible to expect toencode at all costs a recipewhich stemmed from chance!What is certain is that, alreadyduring the Roman era,mixtures of boiled cereals andvegetables were a commonpractice. How and why the“mesciua” is so strongly rootedin the rituals of the localcuisine remains a mystery asmuch unexplained as pleasant.

    The FarinataDuring the Middle Ages someauthors went as far assuggesting that the LiguriaRegion was so called in orderto emphasize the peculiarvirtues of its pulses (“legumi” inItalian) and the related culinaryinterest revealed byits inhabitants. Above all, chickpeas in grainsor grounded, in order to obtainkneading flour.Within the territory of theprovince of La Spezia, the “farinata” is widely eatenand people of all ages like it. Itis usually prepared at any timeof day in bakeries andpizzerias; it is sold in slices oras a takeaway and it can beenjoyed on the spot: boilinghot, freshly baked, served on asheet of rough paper, whichserves as a valuable tray; it isalso delicious to eat on the

    street, wrapped in paper or asa rich fi lling in a piece ofsalted focaccia bread.However, many people preferto savour it at home, for ajoyful meal with the family,accompanied by a cool andlight white wine. The recipe ofthis sunny delicacy does notdiffer much from the followingone: chickpea fl our, water,best quality extra virgin oliveoil, salt and pepper.The mixture, properly blendedand foamed, has to be pouredinto a large baking tray, inorder to get a layer about halfcentimetre thick. It is cooked at a hightemperature to allow theimmediate moistureevaporation from the mixture.The top layer bubbles up,becoming wrinkly. Signs ofincipient singes reveal that allis ready for the banquet. At the same time, you cansmell intense note of olive oil inthe air. Listen to theirmusicality: they will reveal thegoodness of the magnificent“farinata”.

    The queen of oily fishThe anchovies from La Speziahave always been countedamong the delicacies of theMediterranean basin. Theyenjoy a well deserved andacclaimed notoriety, especiallythe ones from Monterosso alMare, in the Cinque Terre, eatenin brine after the catch. Specifi cpractical arrangements –punctually the same ones for atleast the past two centuries –guarantee a unique qualitativeyield. The most indicated timefor the catch of anchovies to besalted is usually between theend of April and the end of July,according to the year. However,it is diffi cult do establish aprecise date, as the sea moodscan be subjected to variations,even serious ones. In any case,the anchovy, the queen of oily fish, is suitable for plenty ofrecipes. In La Spezia, they are

    (Mediterranean mussel). Thebusiness is still fl ourishing,thanks to the microclimate andpurity of the waters, wherethere are plenty of giltheads,which are incredibly voraciousof the very tasty mussels. Themussels of the local farms, afterbeing transferred to theequipped plant of Santa Teresarelaying, are sold in certifi edpacks by fishmongers also inMilan and other cities. Themussels’ high popularity amongthe people of La Spezia isdocumented by the worthinessof the variety of recipes, whichare so familiar both at therestaurant and at home. Just toquote a few: simply “allamarinara”, meaning sprinkledwith drops of lemon; batter andfry them after removing theirvalves; with spaghetti or risotto;in a warm salad with squids,shrimps and clams. The mostelevated peaks of gastronomicvalue, however, are achievedwith the stuffed mussels andcooked, if possible, in aterracotta pan. The stuffi ngmay be: chopped mussels,mortadella ham, chard leaves,bread crumb soaked in milkand squeezed, garlic, parsley,marjoram, pepper, salt, tomatosauce for the gravy.Every woman jealously guardsthe secrets of the procedureused. She has learned themfrom her mother ormother-in-law. She will gladlyfollow her example.

    marinated with lemon juice,extra virgin olive oil, spices andherbs; stuffed and fried. Friedon their own or with prawnsand calamari. Typical ofVernazza is the “tian”, withpotatoes thinly sliced and theboned, fl at anchovies, ovencooked.

    A treasure of shellfishIt is impossible tomisunderstand: mytilidae, here,are mussels. They are called“cozze” and “peoci” elsewhere:in the rest of Italy and in theTriveneto area respectively. It isa matter of history, notgeographical location. It allstarted well over a century ago,when certain corners of theGulf of La Spezia were deemedsuitable to start breedingshellfish, bivalves with blackvalves, belonging to the scientific type Mytilus galloprovincialis

    32 FOOD & DRINK

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    be savoured and bought on theoccasion of the traditionalfestival “Gli orti di Pignone”,which is the market-fair withtasting of the local typicalproducts which takes place in thehistoric centre every year since2000, on the last week end inAugust. During the fair, in themain square, the farmers selltheir produce directly to theconsumer, while in the streetsand small squares of the villagevolunteers prepare traditionaldishes based on potatoes,beans, maize fl our, chestnutsand various vegetables. A veryimportant part in many dishes isplayed by the salami of Pignone,realized by the handicraftlaboratory “Bordignoni”,including the sausage, which ispart of the regional register oftypical products.

    The SciacchetràIn honoring the myth that sincethe Middle Ages has surroundedthe wines of this terrifi c stretchof Ligurian coast, the BiancoCinque Terre white wine and theCinque Terre Sciacchetrà wereDOC (controlled designation oforigin) labelled in 1973. Samegrapes: Bosco, Albarola andVermentino. Since then theproducers, stubborn and

    white grape which with timehas found its natural habitat inthese places, in the vicinity ofthe sea, is the Vermentino, fromwhich a wine with an intensescent of herbs and fl owers ismade, with its delicate flavourof almond and its refi nedpersonality. Its peculiar virtueshave been adequately codedby the controlled designation oforigin which was granted asfrom the vintage of 1989. Aswell as the Vermentino, theD.O.C. Colli di Luni, whichinvolves also the territory ofthree municipalities of thebordering province of Massa -Carrara, with particularreference to Fosdinovo, regardsalso the White and the Red,both obtained by a blend ofgrapes. The blend of the fi rstone includes the Vermentino,Trebbiano and Malvasia. Theother one, which also has the“reserve”, generally has a baseof San Giovese of about 60%,with the addition of Merlot,Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo,Pollera and other localvarieties. The “Colli di Luni”Vermentino is particularlyindicated for matchings withseafood dishes, both of thetraditional cuisine and thecreative haute cuisine.

    sensitive, have been good atgetting past the legend,essentially looking for thequality requested by the market.The white wine is fairly eclectic,thanks to its characteristictastiness due to iodated seabreezes; it is particularlyindicated to be matched mainlywith the main representativedishes of the local marinecuisine. Sciacchetrà is perhapsthe oldest passito wine. Theorigin of its name is uncertain. Itcould result from sucrose.Shekar, in Lebanon, was thename of a drink which causedintoxication. In the Schiacchetràwine, the hints of apricot areunmistakable and intense; it isalso available in the “reserve”version, with a three yearrefinement. Some peopleconsider it the ideal partner forcheeses. Others prefer it withdesserts, such as the “spungata”(typical Christmas cake) fromSarzana. It remains, however, awonderful elixir to enjoy ingood company.

    The VermentinoThe landscape of the hillssurrounding the archaeologicalsite of Luni is characterised bythe signifi cant presence of theolive tree and the vineyard. The

    Organic cheesesThe production of cheeses in Valdi Vara is a consolidatedtradition which sinks its rootsdeep in the midsts of times. Itbecomes an organised andstructured activity since the earlyNineties, with the birth of theCooperativa Casearia Val diVara (Cheese Cooperative of theVal di Vara), realizing in thisway the dream of all thosepeople who had created it:gather and transform on site, intheir dairy, all the milk producedby the partners, valorizing in thisway an activity destined todisappear. Witness of this effortis the logo: a small snail whichsymbolizes the hardship and theperseverance which helpedproducing the fi rst wholecheeses. The old cheese makingrecipes handed down by thefarmers of the valley have beenrecovered and they have thenbeen integrated with the modernfood technologies, in such a wayas to guarantee the best possiblequality together with thewholesomeness of past times,without using preservatives orchemical dyes. In the past fewyears, a great number ofpartners breeders has adoptedthe methods of the organicagriculture, making sure that themilk and cheeses would get, the

    abundant, of both the white andyellow varieties. Beans havebeen valued since ancient timesand in the recent past they usedto be brought on wagons by thefarmers to the market square inLa Spezia. There are aremarkable six varieties ofbeans on the territory: the“borlotti” or “Lumè”,“cannellini”, “fagiolidall’aquila”, “cenerini”,“lupinari”, and the latest ones tobe rediscovered, the “cannellinidall’occhio rosso”. However,only the “borlotti”, “cannellini”and “cannellini dall’occhiorosso” are available for theconsumer. All these beans havea delicate taste, a very thin skin,savoury and creamy pulp. Theysuit very well several recipes;however, the most typical andtasty match is with the sausagefrom Pignone. The maize“dall’asciutto” is a variety ofcorn with a small and stumpycob; its grains are small andhave a dark orange colour, andfrom them you get a very fi neand “silky” fl our; its productionwas restarted only a few yearsback, mainly because of its pooryield. When grinded it providesa fl our used to make a verydelicate and creamy polenta,much liked by those who havetasted it. All these products can

    first ones in Liguria, a furtherquality acknowledgment: theorganic certifi cation. The dairyproduction is articulated in twoseparate production lines: atraditional one, with high qualityfresh cheeses and long maturingones (“Gratta”) and the productsderiving from the Schiacchetràand Ciliegiolo grape pomace.Within the organic line there arethe fresh ones (“Ugo e Luigia”)and the semi-mature ones, withtheir feather in cap “Stagionatodi Vaise”, obtained from an oldrecipe handed down by thefarmers of Varese Ligure. Thereare also the “freschissimi” (i.e.very fresh cheeses), such as therenowned “ricotta”.

    Pignone’s potatoes andother products The typical products of theValleys of Pignone and Casale,among which the potato is the“queen”, are products ofexcellence, rightfully included inthe regional register. Thepotatoes of Pignone are verywell known and appreciated fortheir fl avour, the consistency oftheir pulp and the many usesthat can be applied in thekitchen. It is the main product ofthe farmers of Pignone; theproduction takes place betweenAugust and March, is fairly

    34 FOOD & DRINK

  • www.provincia.sp.it

    www.turismoprovincia.laspezia.it

    [email protected]

    [email protected]

    T + 39 0187 770900

  • 3938

    CONSORZIO TURISTICOGOLFO DEI POETI

    Sede operativaViale Italia 9919124 La Spezia T +39 0187 778336F +39 0187 778335Sede fiscaleVia Fontevivo 19/F19124 La Spezia (SP)T +39 0187 598511F +39 0187 [email protected]

    CONSORZIO PROMOTOURRIVIERA DI LEVANTE

    Corso Roma 3719015 Levanto [email protected]

    CONSORZIO ALBERGHI CITTÀ DI LERICI

    Via Nino Gerini 3719032 Lerici www.cittadilerici.com

    CONSORZIO MARITTIMOTURISTICO 5 TERRE GOLFO DEI POETI

    Via Don Minzoni 13 19121 La Spezia T +39 0187 732987 F +39 0187 [email protected]ti.it

    CONSORTIA CONSORTIA

    CONSORZIO OCCHIOBLU

    Piazza Mazzini19015 Levanto T + 39 0187 802626 +39 0187 802562www.occhioblu.it

    CONSORZIO TURISTICOCINQUE TERRE

    Loc. Loreto Parcheggio Multipiano 19016 Monterosso al Mare [email protected] www.cinqueterre.it

    CONSORZIOTURISMO VERDE

    Località Pallodola19038 SarzanaT +39 0187 [email protected]

    CONSORZIO WELCOMETO LA SPEZIA

    www.welcomelaspezia.it

    C

  • 43

    HOTEL

    HOTEL DEL GOLFO *** Via Gerini 3719032 Lerici (SP) T +39 0187 967400F +39 0187 [email protected]

    HOTEL DELLA BAIA *** Lungomare 11119125 Le GraziePorto Venere T 0187 790797F +39 0187 [email protected]

    DORIA PARK HOTEL *** Via Doria 219032 Lerici (SP) T +39 0187 967124F +39 0187 [email protected]

    GRAND HOTEL EUROPA *** Via Carpanini 119032 Lerici (SP) T +39 0187 967800F +39 0187 [email protected]

    HOTEL FIRENZE *** Via Paleocapa 719122 La Spezia T +39 0187 713200F +39 0187 [email protected]

    HOTEL FLORIDA *** Via Biaggini 3519032 Lerici (SP)T +39 0187 967332F +39 0187 [email protected]

    HOTEL LE GRAZIE *** Via Roma 4319025 Le GraziePorto Venere T +39 0187 790017F +39 0187 [email protected]

    42

    HOTEL GHIRONI ****

    HOTEL

    Via del Tino 6219126 La SpeziaT 0187 504141F +39 0187 [email protected]

    NH HOTEL **** Via XX Settembre 219124 La Spezia T +39 0187 739555F +39 0187 [email protected]

    MY ONE HOTEL **** Via XX Settembre 8119124 La Spezia T +39 0187 738848F +39 0187 [email protected]

    PARACCUCHI E LOCANDADELL'ANGELO ****

    Via XXV Aprile 6019031 Ameglia (SP)T +39 0187 [email protected]

    RIVER PARK HOTEL **** Via del Botteghino 1719030 Fiumaretta – Ameglia(SP) T +39 0187 648154F +39 0187 [email protected] it

    ROYAL SPORTING HOTEL **** Via dell'Olivo 34519025 Porto Venere T +39 0187790326F +39 0187 [email protected]

    HOTEL BELVEDERE *** Via Garibaldi 2619023 Porto Venere T +39 0187 790608F +39 0187 [email protected]

  • 45

    HOTEL · RENT ROOMS

    HOSTEL AMEGLIA Via Circonvallazione 319031 Ameglia (SP)T+39 0187 65517M +39 320 2753719

    +39 329 [email protected]

    PALAZZO COSTA Via Castagnarossa 1519020 Beverino M +39 347 4185209

    ARIANNA HILL HOUSE Via Vecchiora 37/CVignale – La Spezia M +39 345 4859744F +39 0187 [email protected]

    A POSADA Via XX Settebre 11919121 La Spezia M +39 339 [email protected]

    A 4 PASSI DAL MARE Via Vanicella 1519121 La Spezia M +39 333 [email protected]

    BELLA NAPOLI Via Gramsci 17519122 La SpeziaT 0187 714750F +39 0187 [email protected]

    CASA DANÈ Via Paleocapa 419122 La Spezia M +39 347 3513239F +39 0187 [email protected]

    44

    RELAIS AL CONVENTO ***

    HOTEL

    Piazza Regina Margherita 119020 Vezzano Ligure T +39 0187 [email protected]

    HOTEL SETTE ARCHI *** Via Fabbricotti 24219030 Bocca di Magra –AmegliaT +39 0187 609017F +39 0187 [email protected]

    HOTEL SHELLEY EDELLE PALME ***

    Lungomare Biaccini 519032 Lerici T +39 0187 968204F +39 0187 [email protected]

    HOTEL STELLA MARINA *** Via Garibaldi 4819032 San Terenzo – Lerici T +39 0187 970355F +39 0187 [email protected]

    HOTEL SMERALDO ** Via Aurelia 15419033 Castelnuovo Magra T +39 0187 674226F +39 0187 [email protected]

    LOCANDA TRAMONTI Via della Chiesa 56Campiglia – La SpeziaT +39 0187 758514F +39 0187 [email protected]

    ANTICA LOCANDA LUIGINA Via Aurelia 18219020 Carrodano (SP)T +39 0187 893683F +39 0187 [email protected]

  • 47

    RENT ROOMS

    LA TAVERNETTA Via Fiume 5719121 La Spezia T +39 0187 713025F +39 0187 [email protected]

    LA TARTARUGA DORALICE Via Raffaele De Nobili 4419121 La SpeziaM +39 340 [email protected]

    LA TORTUGA Piazza Bastreri 2219025 Porto Venere M +39 347 [email protected]

    LE VELE Via Gramsci 7019121 La SpeziaM +39 348 [email protected]

    LOCANDA DEL GOLFO EDELLE 5 TERRE

    Via XX Settebre 21119122 La Spezia M +39 333 2808002F +39 0187 [email protected]

    LOCANDA DEL PRIONE Via del Prione 15219121 La Spezia M +39 333 1776696 F +39 0187 [email protected]

    MONTEVERDI RESORT Via Migliari 3519122 La Spezia M +39 335 62899664 F +39 0187 [email protected]

    46

    FORESTERIA DEL PESCATORE

    RENT ROOMS

    Via Rattazzi 5119123 La Spezia M +39 393 9270093F +39 0187 [email protected]

    LA CASA DELLA FONTANA M +39 349 91887814F +39 0187 [email protected]

    L'ALBATROS Via Saponiera 1119100 La Spezia M +39 347 2226644 F +39 0187 [email protected]

    LA LANTERNA Via Giovanni Capellini 6819025 Porto Venere T +39 0187 791395F +39 0187 [email protected]

    LUNAMAR Via Paleocapa 219122 La Spezia M +39 347 2825738 F +39 0187 [email protected]

    LA LUNA Via Paleocapa 1419121 La Spezia T +39 349 [email protected]

    LA STAZIONE Via Fiume 5219122 La SpeziaT +39 0187 714416 F +39 0187 [email protected]

  • 49

    FARM TOURISM · BED & BREAKFAST

    COLLINE DI ROSSOLI Via XXVIII Luglio 1944,19020 Sorbolo – Follo T/F +39 0187 559118M +39 349 [email protected]

    IL GIARDINO Via Giardino 619020 Vezzano Ligure T +39 0187 [email protected]

    LA DEBBIA Località La Debbia19020 Rocchetta Vara (SP)T +39 339 [email protected]adebbia.com

    LA GIARA Via Federici 1519020 Beverino (SP)T +39 0187 883129F +39 0187 [email protected]

    LA SARTICOLA Via Sarticola 19Ortonovo M +39 328 [email protected]

    MONTEVERDE Via Ciro Menotti 2119030 Castelnuovo Magra T/F +39 0187 [email protected]

    ALLA CASALTA Via Romito per Trebiano19021 Arcola T +39 0187 [email protected]

    48

    PIETRADILUNA

    RENT ROOMS · FARM TOURISM

    Via Gragnola 6/819033 Castelnuovo Magra T +39 0187 671298 F +39 0187 [email protected]

    QUIET NIGHT Via Roma 1219121 La Spezia M +39 348 [email protected]

    TRE FRÈ Via Paleocapa 419122 La SpeziaM +39 347 3513239F +39 0187 [email protected]

    VILLA FELICITA Salita del Piano 1919131 Cadimare – La Spezia T +39 0187 [email protected]

    CA' DU CHITTU Via Camporione 2519012 Località Pavareto –CarroT/F +39 0187 861205

    CÀ LORENZO Via Ameglia 13619021 Romito Magra –Arcola (SP) T +39 328 [email protected]

    CASCINA DEI PERI Via Montefrancio 7119033 Castelnuovo Magra T/F +39 0187 674085 [email protected]

  • 51

    BED & BREAKFAST · CAMPING

    LE DUE PALME Via Vicinale di Carreccia 319034 Casano – Ortonovo T/F +39 0187 [email protected]

    LE MAGNOLIE Via dei Molini 16819038 Sarzana M +39 335 6672107F +39 0187 [email protected]

    MARE E MONTI Via Genova 52319134 La Spezia T +39 0187 717854F +39 0187 [email protected]

    MARE E PIETRA Località Zanego 4419032 Lerici T +39 0187 952218M +39 339 3419927

    PIAN DI LUNA Via Montecavallo 2/A19038 Sarzana T /F +39 0187 [email protected]

    CAMPEGGIO GIANNA Via Fiascherino II traversa 719032 Tellaro – Lerici T/F +39 0187 [email protected]

    CAMPING RIVER Via Armezzone 2319031 Ameglia T +39 0187 65920F +39 0187 [email protected]

    50

    AL LIZZO

    BED & BREAKFAST

    Via Tre strade 519032 LericiT/F +39 0187 970308 [email protected]

    AL TIMONIERE Piazza del Bastione 219121 La SpeziaM +39 339 7164040F +39 0187 [email protected]

    AURORA Via Navonella 3419038 Sarzana M +39 340 [email protected]

    IL CASALE DELLA LUNA Via Aranci 5, 19038Falcinello – Sarzana T +39 0187 [email protected]

    IL GELSOMINO D'ORO Corso Cavour 212La SpeziaM +39 348 [email protected]

    IL VIALE Viale Mazzini 7619138 Sarzana T +39 0187 [email protected]

    L'ARCOBALENO Via Dei Molini 65/6719038 Sarzana T +39 0187 [email protected]

  • 52

    RESIDENCES ALBERGHIERE · HOLIDAY VILLAS · HOSTELS

    LIDO DI PORTO VENERE Via II traversa Olivo19025 Porto Venere T +39 0187 791435F +39 0187 [email protected]

    Via Falcinello 12719038 Sarzana T +39 0187 627307F +39 0187 [email protected]

    IL GABBIANO Piazzale Giovanni XXIII 119121 La SpeziaT +39 0187 24322F +39 0187 [email protected]

    OSTERIA I MARCHESI Via Genova 819020 Ceparana – Bolano T +39 0187 [email protected]

    RISTORANTE ARCÀDOLEO Via Vecchiora 46, Costa diMurlo19133 Vignale M +39 3397526273M +39 3397435799T +39 0187 707026www.accadoleo.oneminutesite.it

    TRATTORIA TRE TORRI Piazza Bastreri 9/a19025 Porto Venere T +39 0187 [email protected]

    53

    RESTAURANT

    RISTORANTE PAOLINODI RITA E RAFFA SNC

    Via Gerini 5019032 LericiT/F +39 0187 967801M +39 338 [email protected]

    ANTICO CASALE Via Navonella 719038 SarzanaT +39 0187 6225423F +39 0187 [email protected]

    BAIA BLU Via Santa Teresa 719032 Lerici T +39 0187 974800F +39 0187 [email protected]

    CASALI ROMEI Vai Monterosso 219038 loc. Belvedere –Sarzana T +39 0187 278120M +39 327 0963744F +39 0187 [email protected]

    TENUTA LA GHIAIA

    HOSTEL 5 TERRE Via Riccobaldi 2119017 Manarola T +39 0187 920039 F T +39 0187 [email protected]

  • 5554

    CINTOIRENT

    MOTORCYCLE & WATER SCOOTER RENTALS · CAR RENTALBOATING & MARINAS

    Piazza Saint Bon 1419100 La SpeziaT +39 0187 770194F +39 0187 [email protected]

    AUTONOLEGGIO FERDANIMARCO E CORRADI ANDREA& C.

    Via Lunigiana 20319125 La SpeziaT +39 0187 514893F +39 0187 523297

    PORTO MIRABELLO Viale Italia19121 La SpeziaT +39 0187 778108F +39 0187 [email protected]

    PORTO LOTTI Viale San Bartolomeo 39419122 La SpeziaT +39 0187 [email protected]

    PORTOVENERE SERVIZIPORTUALI E TURISTICI

    Molo Dondero19025 Porto Venere (SP)T +39 0187 791733 [email protected]

    DARSENA DI RIPA VERDE Via Poggio Scafa 1619031 Ameglia (SP)T +39 0187 [email protected]

    AMEGLIA SERVIZI TURISTICI Piazza Sforza 119031 Ameglia (SP)T +39 0187 608037F +39 0187 609549 [email protected]

    SILVIA VIAGGI Via Sarzana 1819125 La Spezia T +39 0187 [email protected]

    NAVIGAZIONE GOLFO DEI POETI

    Via Fontevivo 1919100 La SpeziaT +39 0187 732987M +39 338 [email protected]

    ARBASPAA Via Discovolo 252/A19017 Manarola – Riomaggiore T +39 0187 760083F +39 0187 [email protected]

    ARIANNA 2002 Via Napoli 2119122 La Spezia T +39 0187 751563F +39 0187 [email protected]

    EXLUSIVE TOUR Via Istria 719124 La SpeziaT +39 0585 44758F +39 0585 [email protected]

    MAMBERTO VIAGGI Viale Italia 9719124 La SpeziaT +39 0187 778336

    +39 0187 [email protected]

    TOUR OPERATOR · FERRY

  • 57

    AGORÀortofrutta

    Località Forno19020 Calice al Cornoviglio M +39 339 [email protected]

    56

    COOPERATIVA EARTH

    COOPERTIVES & TOURIST GUIDES · PRO LOCO FARMS

    Via Montepertico 6419100 La SpeziaT +39 0187 622080M +39 338 [email protected]

    ASOCIAZIONE GAIAGuide turistiche-ambientaliescursionistiche -accompagnatori

    Via Tralcantu 27/b19020 Riomaggiore M +39 334 5332601F +39 0187 807184 [email protected]

    IL PORTOROGestione strutture ricettive

    Via Garibaldi 162/B19022 Porto VenereM +39 328 [email protected]

    PRO LOCO ARCOLANA Via Valentini 19719021 Arcola T/F +39 0187 986559 [email protected]

    PRO LOCO MONTEMARCELLO Via Nuova 48Località Monte Marcello19031 Ameglia T/F +39 0187 [email protected]

    PRO LOCO PORTO VENERE Piazza Bastreri 719025 Porto Venere T +39 0187 [email protected]

    BOATING & MARINAS · COOPERTIVES & TOURIST GUIDES

    ASSONAUTICA LA SPEZIA Piazza Europa 1619124 La SpeziaT +39 0187 728263F +39 0187 [email protected]

    SEAPROJECTNAUTICA

    Viale San Bartolomeo 22619121 La SpeziaT +39 0187 518084F +39 0187 [email protected]

    CANTIERE VALDETTARONAUTICA

    Via Libertà 1219022 La SpeziaT +39 0187 791687F +39 0187 [email protected]

    C.E.M.I.N SRLProgettazione, realizzazionee gestione impianti nautici

    Via del Montale 2619132 Marola – La SpeziaT +39 335 260435F +39 0187 [email protected]

    MARINA DEL FEZZANONAUTICA

    Via dei Cantieri19025 Porto VenereT +39 0187 790103F +39 0187 [email protected]

    COOPERATIVA ARTEE NATURAGuide turistiche

    Via Fontevivo 1919100 La SpeziaT +39 338 [email protected]

    COOPERATIVA TOURISTSERVICE

    Via Pietro Gori 3219038 Sarzana (SP)T +39 335 [email protected]

  • 5958

    CARGIOLLI MICHELAortofrutta e miele

    FARMS

    Località Usurana19020 Calice al CornoviglioM +39 327 [email protected]

    FABBRIS CAMILLAmiele e prodotti dell'alveare

    19032 Lerici [email protected]

    FERRARI STEFANOvivaio

    Via Forano 1419031 Ameglia M +39 333 [email protected]

    GIANGARÈ NICOLAortofrutta

    Via Litoranea19031 Ameglia M +39 340 [email protected]

    I CASTAGNIortofrutta

    Via Valle, Località Polverara19020 Riccò del golfo M +39 348 [email protected]

    I GELSIortofrutta

    Via Valle, Località Polverara19020 Riccò del golfo M +39 348 [email protected]

    IL FILO DI PAGLIAortofrutta, miele e erbearomatiche

    Via San Nicolo 11Località Pavareto19012 Carro M +39 349 [email protected]

    FARMS

    APICOLTURA FRATELLI BORSImiele e prodotti dell'alveare

    Località Garbugliaga19020 Rocchetta Vara M +39 340 [email protected]

    APICOLTURA ODELLImiele e prodotti dell'alveare

    Località Usurana19020 Calice al Cornoviglio M +39 340 [email protected]

    ASSOCIAZIONE CAMPIGLIAproduzione zafferano

    Piazza della Chiesa19132 Campiglia T +39 0187 758514F +39 0187 [email protected]

    BARTOLUCCIortofrutta, olio extra vergine dioliva, miele e prodottidell'alveare

    Località Usurana19020 Calice al Cornoviglio M +39 338 [email protected]

    BEDINI ANTONELLAortofrutta

    Via XXV Aprile19031 Ameglia M +39 348 [email protected]

    BIANCHI MARIA LUISAortofrutta

    Località Senato 419032 Lerici M +39 328 [email protected]

    BRASSÈortofrutta, marmellate, miele eprodotti dell’alveare

    Via Cernadore 2/b19020 Beverino M +39 347 [email protected]

  • 6160

    BEGASTIvino delle Cinque Terre

    FARMS

    Via XX Settembre 1419016 Monterosso al mare M +39 328 [email protected]

    BELFIOREolio extravergine di oliva emarmellate

    Via Caprignano 319033 Castelnuovo Magra M +39 335 [email protected]

    CA' DE BRUSONolio extravergine di oliva

    Via Montefrancio 6419033 Castelnuovo MagraM +39 347 1215196 [email protected]

    CAMPOGRANDEvino delle Cinque Terre

    Via di Loca 18919017 Riomaggiore (SP)M +39 380 [email protected]

    CANTINA DEI TOBIOLIvino delle Cinque Terre

    Via Discovolo 3219017 Riomaggiore T +39 0187 920213 [email protected]

    CANTINA SASSARINIvino delle Cinque Terre

    Località Pian del Corso 119016 Monterosso al mare M +39 335 7905225 [email protected]

    CA' RINAolio extravergine di oliva,confeture e ortofrutta

    Via Mantero 17/c19037 Santo Stefano Magra M +39 340 [email protected]

    FARMS

    IL FUCO FICOmiele e prodotti dell'alveare

    Via Lunigiana 49919100 La Spezia M +39 328 [email protected]

    IL GERMOGLIOortofrutta

    Via Novarella19038 Sarzana M +39 392 [email protected]

    L’ANTICA FORNACEortofrutta, salumi e carne disuino

    Via Ponte Rollino 419028 Varese LigureM +39 340 [email protected]

    LA PESCHIERAortofrutta

    Località Arsina19020 Sesta Godano M +39 347 9707043

    LA VEN NOTTAmiele, confetture, ortofrutta,conserve e olio extravergine dioliva

    Via Buozzi, Località Pitelli19100 La SpeziaM +39 334 2075388 [email protected]

    NEO ARISTEOmiele e prodotti dell'alveare

    Via Genova 498/B19100 La SpeziaM +39 347 2740449 [email protected]

    PAGANINIortofrutta

    Via IV Novembre 3119020 Riccò del Golfo M +39 333 1471803

  • 6362

    LE PICCOLE ERBEliquori, sali e zuccheroaromatizzati, tisane, aromi percucina

    FARMS

    Casa Berretta 3219028 Varese Ligure M +39 333 [email protected]

    LO SCOGLIOolio extravergine di oliva

    Via Saricello II traversa19033 Castelnuovo Magra (SP)T +39 0187 [email protected]

    LUCIANI ANTONIOolio extravergine di oliva

    Via dei Molini19038 Sarzana M +39 329 [email protected]

    ORSOLON PAOLAolio extravergine di oliva

    Via Lozzana 1319020 Vezzano Ligure M +39 338 [email protected]

    POSSAvino delle Cinque Terre e miele

    Via De Gasperi 13019017 Riomaggiore M +39 348 [email protected]

    QUEIROLO EMILIOolio extravergine di oliva, vinoe ortofrutta

    Località Casella – Setta19014 Framura M +39 328 [email protected]

    RUFFINI ROSSANAvino e olio extravergine dioliva

    Località Tirolo19020 BolanoT +39 0187 939988 F +39 0187 569476

    FARMS

    CORNICEvino

    Via Colla 21, Località Cornice19020 Sesta Godano M +39 339 [email protected]

    IL BORGO DEI CAMPIolio extravergine di oliva

    Strada Litoranea SP 370km 9.419017 Riomaggiore M +39 337 [email protected]

    LA CANTINA DEL NONNOMOROTTIvino dei Colli di Luni, olioextravergine di oliva

    Via Fosella 6219021 Arcola M +39 338 [email protected]

    LA CANTINA LEVANTESEvino Colline di Levanto, olioextravergine di oliva, grappe,limoncino

    Via Zoppi 1119015 Levanto T +39 0187 807137 [email protected]

    LA CARRECCIAvino dei Colli di Luni e olioextravergine di oliva

    Via Carreccia19034 Ortonovo M +39 347 [email protected]

    L'AROMATICAolio extravergine di oliva ePesto

    Via Nerchia19038 Sarzana M +39 339 [email protected]

    LA FELCEvino dei Colli di Luni

    Via Bozzi19034 OrtonovoM +39 338 [email protected]

  • FARMS

    SERGIAMPIETRI GIORGIOolio extravergine di oliva,miele e prodotti dell'alveare

    Via PalvotrisiaM +39 339 [email protected]

    SESTILI GIANCARLOolio extravergine di oliva

    Via Triboli19038 Sarzana M +39 329 4590933

    TERRA DELLA LUNAvino dei Colli di Luni

    Via Isola Alta19034 Ortonovo M +39 340 0810409 [email protected]

    A RIMOSIanimali di bassa corte,ortofrutta

    Località Montalbano 4519100 La Spezia M +39 345 [email protected]

    CORNEOgallo nero, ortofrutta, piccolifrutti

    Località Corneo 7619028 Varese Ligure M +39 320 4136320 [email protected]

    MATTIONI LUCAallevamento bovino da carne

    Via Pretura 1019031 Ameglia M +39 338 5814626

    CINQUE TERRE FOOD STYLEpromozione ecommercializzazione prodottitipici locali

    Piazza Kennedy 219122 La Spezia M +39 335 5285170