This edition written and researched by

Duncan Garwood, Paula Hardy

AMAZING ROAD TRIPS40

BEST TRIPSITALY’S

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

MAP LEGEND

SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS

Tips from Locals

Top Tips

Link Your Trips

Trip Detour

5 Eating

Family

History & Culture

Food & Drink

Outdoors

Essential Photo

Walking Tour

4 Sleeping

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Italy ............................. 7

Italy Highlights ................................ 8

If You Like... ................................... 20

Need to Know ................................. 22

City Guide ........................................24

Italy by Region ............................... 30

Italy Classic Trips .......................... 32

ON THE ROAD

1 Grand Tour ................ 12–14 Days 35

2World Heritage Wonders ..............14 Days 49

NORTHERN ITALY .............63

3 Savoy Palace Circuit ................ 3–4 Days 67

4 Gourmet Piedmont ...............6 Days 75

5 Meandering the Maritime Alps ........7 Days 83

6 Italian Riviera ....................4 Days 91

7 Cinematic Cinque Terre ...................5–7 Days 99

8 Northern Cities .................7–10 Days 109

% Telephone Number

h Opening Hours

p Parking

a Air- Conditioning

i Internet Access

W Wi-Fi Access

v Vegetarian Selection

s Swimming Pool

c Family-Friendly

Walk Track/Path

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

BeachCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

Sportsground

International

Cliff

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Tunnel

Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

Airport

UndergroundTrain Station

Train/Railway

Cable Car/Funicular

Transport

US Interstate Hwy US National Hwy

California State Hwy

ReservationUrban Area

Trip Stop

Tram

Trip Numbers

2

#9

Walking tour

Trip Detour

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

Routes

Highway Route Markers

[Ù97

VUÓ5dk44

Trips

Parking

1

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

Unsealed Road

place-holdermap

Walk Track/Path

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/ Intermittent LakeGlacier

BeachCemetery (Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

Sportsground

International

Cliff

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian Overpass

Tunnel

Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

Airport

Train/Railway

Cable Car/ Funicular

Highway Marker

ReservationUrban Area

Trip Stop

Tram

Trip Numbers

Walking tour

Trip Detour

Parking

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

Unsealed Road

Transport

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

Routes

Highway Markers

Trips

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

CONTENTS

9 The Graceful Italian Lakes ..................5–7 Days 119

a A Weekend at Lake Garda .............4 Days 131

b Roof of Italy .........................6 Days 139

c Valle d’Aosta ....................5 Days 147

d Grande Strada delle Dolomiti ...7–10 Days 155

e A Venetian Sojourn .............. 4–5 Days 167

f Valpolicella Wine Country ...................4 Days 177

g The Venetian Dolomites ...............7 Days 185

h Trieste to Tarvisio ...................7 Days 195

CENTRAL ITALY ..............209

i Roaming Around Rome .......................3 Days 213

j Abruzzo’s Wild Landscapes ............6 Days 221

k Etruscan Tuscany & Lazio ............. 3–4 Days 229

l Monasteries of Tuscany & Umbria ................5 Days 237

Central Italyp209

Northern Italyp63

Southern Italyp293

3

Contents cont.

JUS

TIN

FOU

LK

ES

/LO

NE

LY P

LA

NE

T ©

Venice Gondola on the Grand Canal in front of the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

m Green Heart of Italy ............... 4–5 Days 245

n Piero della Francesca Trail .........................7 Days 255

o Tuscan Wine Tour .........................4 Days 263

p Tuscan Landscapes ....... 3–4 Days 273

q Foodie Emilia- Romagna .................7 Days 281

SOUTHERN ITALY ...........293

r Shadow of Vesuvius ............ 2–3 Days 297

s Southern Larder ................ 3–4 Days 307

t Amalfi Coast .......................7 Days 315

u Cilento Coastal Trail .................... 4–5 Days 325

v Puglia’s Pilgrim Trail .........................4 Days 333

w Valle d’Itria ................. 2–3 Days 341

x Salento Surprises ............5–7 Days 349

y Across the Lucanian Apennines ..........5–7 Days 357

z The Calabrian Wilderness ...... 8–10 Days 365

{Wonders of Ancient Sicily .............. 12–14 Days 375

| Sicilian Baroque ..................5 Days 387

} Sardinia’s South Coast ....... 4–5 Days 395

~ Emerald Coast ...................5–7 Days 403

¤Historic Sardinia ..................7 Days 411

ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS

Italy Driving Guide ........................421

Italy Travel Guide .........................427

Language ...................................... 436

Index ............................................. 439

4

AAbbazia di Monte Maria 142Abbazia di Monte Oliveto

Maggiore 242Abbazia di Sant’Antimo 270Abruzzo 221-7Accademia Carrara 112, 128Acciaroli 329accommodation 23, 428-30Agerola 309-10Agrigento 379, 384-5Agropoli 327, 331air travel 427Akrai 390Alassio 94-5, 97Alba 79-80, 81Alberobello 344, 347Alghero 408, 409Alpe di Siusi 164, 165Alta Badia 158-9, 165alta vie 164Alto Lario 140-1Altomonte 366Amalfi 310, 313, 319-21, 323Amalfi Coast 17, 316-23anatomy theatre 39Aosta 150, 153Aquileia 197-8archaeology 20architecture 20, 21, 57Arena (Verona) 56Arezzo 258-9, 261Aritzo 414

art 20, 57, 255-61art galleries 15, see also

individual galleriesAscoli Piceno 252, 253Asolo 173-4, 175Assisi 238-9, 243Asti 80, 81ATMs 432

BBadia a Passignano 266, 271Bagni San Filippo 278Bagno Vignoni 278Banca del Vino 78Barbaresco 80, 81Bardolino 136, 182, 183Bari 339, 342Barletta 337Barolo 79, 81Basilica (Aquileia) 198Basilica della Santa

Casa 251Basilica di San

Francesco 238-9Basilica di San Lorenzo 290Basilica di San Marco 39,

57, 115Basilica di San Nicola 335Basilica di San Petronio 41,

285Basilica di Santa Caterina

d’Alessandria 351Basilica di Santa Chiara 239Basilica di Santa Croce 351

Basilica di Santa Giusta 412Basilica di Santa Maria

Maggiore 128Basilica di Santa Maria

Sopra Minerva 288Basilica di

Sant’Anastasia 179Basilica di Sant’Antonio 39,

56, 171Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo 248Basilica di Superga 72Basilica Palladiana 207Basilicata 357-63Bassano del Grappa 171-3bathrooms 434Battistero (Florence) 290Battistero (Parma) 283Battistero (Pisa) 55beaches 21bears 226Bellagio 125-6, 129Bellini, Vincenzo 392Belluno 191, 193Bergamo 111-12, 116, 128,

129Bitonto 335-6Blue Ribbon drive 318boat travel 136, 170, 428Bologna 41-2, 47, 284-5, 287Bolsena 232Bolzano 156-7, 165Bomerano 310border crossings 427Borghese Palace 43

INDEX

439

©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Borgo Castello 198Bormio 142Boscoreale 303Bova 369-70Bra 77-9Brenta Riviera 170, 175Brescia 112, 116Bressanone 159-61, 165Bridge of Sighs 58Brunate 125Brunelleschi, Filippo 42,

57, 258Brunico 159Buonarrotti, Michelangelo

57, 260business hours 432-3

CCa’ Rezzonico 169Cagliari 396-7, 401Calabria 365-73Camigliatello Silano 367-8,

372Camogli 100-1, 106Campi Flegrei 302Campo de’ Fiori 289Campo Imperatore 226Campo San Giacomo

dell’Orio 203Canne della Battaglia 337Cannigione 404-5Cannobino 122-3Canosa di Puglia 338Capitoline Museums 43Capo d’Orso 406Capo d’Otranto 352Capo Sandalo 400Capo Testa 407-8Cappella Bacci 258Cappella Brancacci 260Cappella Colleoni 112, 128Cappella degli Scrovegni 39,

56, 114, 171Cappella Palatina 377, 418

Capri 312Ca’ Rezzonico 169car hire 22, 421-2car insurance 421cars, see drivingCasa di Giorgione 174Casa Natale di Raffaello 257Casarano 354Cascata del Varone 135Castel del Monte 337-8Castel Gandolfo 215-16, 219Castel Trauttmansdorff 143Castelfranco Veneto 174,

186-8Castellabate 328Castellammare di

Stabia 304Castello Brown 101-2Castello dei Conti Guidi 241Castello del

Buonconsiglio 144Castello di Ama 269Castello di Fénis 149Castello di Miramare 196Castello di Moncalieri 70Castello di Racconigi 70Castello di Soave 114Castello di Venere 378Castello di Verrazzano

265-6Castello di Verrès 149Castello d’Issogne 148-9Castello Estense 286Castello Firmiano 143-4Castello Scaligero 136Castello Sforzesco 110-11Castelmezzano 360-1, 363Castelsardo 408Castelvecchio 56, 114Castro 352-4Catania 383, 385, 388-9,

393Cattedrale di San

Giorgio 392

Cattedrale di San Giovanni Evangelista 258

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo 233, 239

Cattedrale di San Nicolò 390-1

Cattedrale di Santa Chiara 400

Cattedrale di Santa Maria 397

Cattedrale di Sant’Agata 388

Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea 319-20

Cattedrale (Palermo) 418Cava d’Ispica 391cell phones 23, 433Cerveteri 234, 235Cesana Torinese 89Cetara 312, 313, 322changing money 432Châtelard 151Chia 397-8Chiesa Capitolare di San

Cataldo 419Chiesa del Gesù 288Chiesa di Piedigrotta 368Chiesa di San Francesco

252Chiesa di San Giorgio 381,

392Chiesa di Santa Lucia 186Chiesa di Santa Maria 398Chiesa di Santa Maria della

Pieve 258Chiesa di Santa Maria

Maggiore 223Chiesa di Sant’Eusebio 141Chiesa e Museo di

Orsanmichele 264Chieti 223Chiostro del Paradiso 321Chiusi 278Cilento peninsula 326-31Cinque Terre 13, 104, 107

440440

IND

EX B-C

Cinque Torri 191-2, 193Cisternino 345-6, 347Cividale del Friuli 199climate 22coastlines 21Cogne 150-1Collio 198-9, 201Colosseum 43, 50Comacchio 286Como 123-5, 129Compendio Garibaldino 408Conca dei Marini 310Conegliano 190-1Convento del Deserto 318Conversano 334-5Corniglia 104Cortina d’Ampezzo 158,

192, 193Cortona 240, 243Cosenza 368, 372costs 23, 432Courmayeur 152, 153credit cards 432Cremona 46, 112-13, 116Cuneo 77, 81, 88, 89Cupone 368currency 432

Dda Vinci, Leonardo 38, 57,

110, 260David 42, 260della Francesca, Piero 255Desenzano del Garda 133-4disabilities, travellers

with 435Dolomites 12, 155-65,

185-93Dorgali 416, 417driving 421-6, 427

car hire 22, 421-2documents 421driving licence 421fuel 22, 425

insurance 421maps 422parking 425road distances 425road rules 423-5safety 422-3, 426, 433websites 422

Duomo (Arezzo) 258Duomo (Castelfranco

Veneto) 174, 186Duomo (Ferrara) 286Duomo (Florence) 42, 53,

290Duomo (Milan) 111Duomo (Modena) 55-6, 284Duomo (Parma) 283Duomo (Pienza) 276Duomo (Pisa) 55Duomo (Salerno) 312Duomo (Siena) 52, 274Duomo (Syracuse) 390Duomo (Trento) 144Duomo (Treviso) 174, 186Duomo (Turin) 77Duomo di Orvieto 278Duomo Vecchio (Brescia)

112DVDs 427

Eearthquakes 251, 382electricity 430Elefantino 288emergencies 22, 436Emilia-Romagna 281-7Eremo Francescano Le Celle

240, 243Erice 377-8, 384Etruscan civilisation 230-5

FFénis 149ferries 136

Ferrara 285-6Finale Ligure 94, 97Florence 15, 26,

eating & sleeping 47, 60-1, 261, 271

sights 42, 53, 259-60, 264-5, 290-1

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi 289

Fontana Pretoria 419food 20, 23, 351, 406, 430-1food tours 282-7, 307-13Fortezza 270Fortezza di Monte

Altura 406Frascati 216, 219fuel 22, 425Fumane 180, 183Funicolare

Como-Brunate 125Funivia Colle Eletto 248

GGalatina 351, 355Galleria d’Arte Antica 200Galleria degli Uffizi 42, 53,

260, 291Galleria dell’Accademia

(Florence) 42, 290Galleria Nazionale

dell’Umbria 239, 246Galleria Nazionale (Parma)

283Galleria Parmeggiani 284Galleria Regionale di Palazzo

Bellomo 390Gallerie dell’Accademia

(Venice) 39, 115galleries 15, see also

individual galleriesGallipoli 354, 355Galtelli 415Gambarie 370, 373Garda 136Gardone Riviera 134-5, 137

441441

IND

EX C-G

gas 22, 425gay travellers 431-2Genoa 38, 46, 92-3, 97Gerace 369, 373Ghetto Nuovo 115Giardini Botanici

Hanbury 96Giardino Alpino

Paradisia 151Giardino Botanico Fondazi-

one André Heller 134Giardino Salvi 207Gola Su Gorropu 416Gole del Raganello 368Gorizia 198, 201Graeco-Roman Theatre

(Catania) 383Greve in Chianti 266Grotta dello Smeraldo 310Grotta Monte Cucco 249Grotte di Castellana 342-4Grotte di Catullo 132Grotte di Frasassi 250Grumentum 359Guardiagrele 223Gubbio 242, 248, 253

Hhealth 431Herculaneum 299-302, 305highlights 8-19, 33hiking 88, 105, 164, 319, 322hilltop towns 19

IIglesias 400, 401Il Vittoriale degli Italiani 134Il Volo dell’Angelo 361Imperia 95insurance 421internet access 23, 431Isola Caprera 408Isola del Garda 134

Isola della Maddalena 406-7, 409

Isola di San Pietro 400, 401Isole Borromee 120Isole Tremiti 338Ispica 391Issogne 148-9Italian Cycling Riviera 96Italian Riviera 91-7

LLa Castiglia 88La Martorana 419La Piccola

Gerusalemme 232La Rotonda 171La Salle 151-2Labirinto di Porsenna 278Laconi 412-14Lago di Braies 159Lago di Como 17, 123-5Lago di Garda 131-7Lago di Ledro 134Lago d’Orta 122Lago Maggiore 120, 123Lake Como 17, 123-5Lake Garda 131-7Lake Maggiore 120, 123language 436-7Last Supper, The 38Lazise 181-2Leaning Tower of Pisa 53Lecce 346, 347, 350-1, 355L’Entroterra 96Lerici 105, 107lesbian travellers 431-2Levi, Carlo 362LGBT travellers 431-2Limone Piemonte 88, 89Lingotto Fiere 84Locorotondo 344, 347Loreto 251, 253Lucera 335

MMacerata 251-2, 253Mafalda of Savoy 72Magrè 145Malles Venosta 142Manarola 104Mantua 113, 116maps 422Maranello 286Maratea 358-9, 363Marguareis Circuit 88Marina del Cantone 318,

323Marina di Furore 319Maritime Alps 83-9Marsala 378, 384Martina Franca 344-5Maser 188-90Matera 362, 363measures 427Merano 142-3, 145Mercato di Ballarò 419Messner Mountain

Museum 143Michelangelo 57, 260Milan 19, 38, 110-11, 116,

204-5mobile phones 23, 433-4Modena 55-6, 61, 284, 287Modica 381, 385, 391-2, 393Monastero di San

Benedetto 218Monastero di Santa

Scolastica 218Monastero & Sacro Eremo di

Camaldoli 241-2Moncalieri 70money 23, 432Mont Blanc 152Montalcino 269-70, 271Monte Argentario 230, 235Monte Sant’Angelo 338, 339

442442

IND

EX G-M

Montepulciano 270, 271, 277, 279

Monterchi 258Monterosso al Mare 104Monticchiello 276-7Morano Calabro 366, 372Morgex 151-2Mormanno 366, 372motorcycles, see drivingmountains 21Mt Vesuvius 302-3Murano 169-70Musei Civici agli

Eremitani 114Musei Civici di Palazzo

Buonaccorsi 251Museion 156Museo Alto Garda 135Museo Antiquarium

Arborense 412Museo Archeologico Baglio

Anselmi 378Museo Archeologico dell’Alto

Adige 156Museo Archeologico

Nazionale (Aquileia) 198Museo Archeologico

Nazionale (Cagliari) 397Museo Archeologico

Nazionale (Chiusi) 278Museo Archeologico

Nazionale d’Abruzzo La Civitella 223

Museo Archeologico Nazionale d’Abruzzo Villa Frigerj 223

Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Palestrina 216

Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Naples) 44, 299

Museo Archeologico Nazionale Tarquiniense 234

Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi 382

Museo Archeologico Regionale (Palermo) 377

Museo Archeologico (Sant’Antioco) 399

Museo Canova 190Museo Casa Natale Gabriele

D’Annunzio 222-3Museo Civico Archeologico

di Pitigliano 232Museo Civico di

Cuneo 77, 88Museo Civico (Gubbio) 248Museo Civico

(Sansepolcro) 258Museo Civico (Siena)

52, 274Museo Civico

(Sulmona) 224Museo Claudio Faina e

Civico 278Museo Correr 115Museo Cristiano 199Museo d’Arte

Contemporanea (Rivoli) 71, 86

Museo d’Arte (Nuoro) 414Museo del Colle del

Duomo 233Museo del Lupo

Appenninico 225Museo del Tricolore 284Museo del Vetro 170Museo del Vino a Barolo 79Museo del Vino (Bardolino)

136, 182Museo del Vino (San

Gimignano) 52Museo del Violino 112Museo della Comunità di

Montalcino e del Brunello 270

Museo della Grande Guerra 198

Museo della Madonna del Parto 258

Museo della Seta 123Museo delle Cappelle

Medicee 290Museo delle Genti

d’Abruzzo 222Museo delle Statue

Menhir 412Museo dell’Olio 95Museo dell’Osservatorio

Vesuviano 302Museo di Arte Moderna e

Contemporanea (Rovereto) 144

Museo di Civiltà Preclassiche della Murgia 346

Museo di San Marco 260Museo Diocesano

(Bressanone) 161Museo Diocesano

(Cortona) 240Museo Diocesano di Arte

Sacra 224Museo Diocesano

(Pienza) 276Museo Egizio 69Museo Etnografico

Sardo 415Museo Faggiano 351Museo Nazionale Cerite 234Museo Nazionale del Cinema

(Turin) 84Museo Nazionale del Risorgi-

mento Italiano 69-70, 76Museo Nazionale di Reggio

Calabria 370Museo Nazionale

Etrusco 233Museo Nazionale Jatta 336Museo Poldi Pezzoli 111Museo Territoriale del Lago

di Bolsena 232Museum de Gherdëina 164

443443

IND

EX M

museums 15, see also individual museums

music 426

NNaples 27, 43-4, 47, 298-9,

305Nastro Azzurro 318’ndrangheta 369Necropoli di

Banditaccia 234Necropoli di Monterozzi 234Necropoli di Pantalica 390Negrar 179-80, 183Nobile Collegio del Cambio

239, 246Nocelle 319Noto 382, 385, 390-1, 393Nuoro 414-15

OOlbia 404, 409opening hours 432-3Oplontis 303Oratorio di San Giorgio 171Orgosolo 414, 417Oristano 412, 417Orosei 415-16, 417Ortisei 161-4, 165Orto Botanico (Padua) 56Orvieto 278, 279Ostia Antica 214-15, 219Ostuni 346, 347Otranto 351-2, 355

PPadua 38-9, 56-7, 114-15, 117,

170-1, 175Padula 359-62Paestum 312, 313, 326-7palaces 21Palatino 50Palau 406, 409

Palazzina di Caccia Stupinigi 70-1

Palazzo Apostolico 215-16Palazzo Borromeo 120Palazzo Chiericati 207Palazzo Comunale 52Palazzo dei Normanni 418Palazzo dei Papi 233Palazzo dei Priori 233Palazzo del Bò 38-9Palazzo della Ragione 171Palazzo Ducale (Genoa) 93Palazzo Ducale (Mantua)

113Palazzo Ducale (Martina

Franca) 344-5Palazzo Ducale (Urbino) 257Palazzo Ducale (Venice)

58, 115Palazzo Estense 123Palazzo Farnese 289Palazzo Grassi 169Palazzo Leoni

Montanari 206Palazzo Madama 68Palazzo Madre 120Palazzo Mocenigo 202Palazzo Nicolaci di

Villadorata 382, 391Palazzo Piccolomini 276Palazzo Poggi 41-2Palazzo Pretoria 144Palazzo Reale (Genoa) 38Palazzo Reale (Turin) 37,

68, 84Palazzo Spinola 38Palazzo Te 113Palazzo Vecchio 53, 291Palazzolo Acreide 390Palermo 377, 384, 418-19Palestrina 216-17, 219Palinuro 330, 331Palio 276Pantheon 43, 51-2, 288

Panzano in Chianti 266-7Parco Archeologico della

Città del Tufa 230-2Parco Archeologico della

Neapolis 382, 389-90Parco Archeologico di Elea

Velia 330Parco Aymerich 413Parco del Conero 250-1, 253Parco del Delta del Po 286Parco Naturale delle Alpi

Marittime 88Parco Naturale Fanes-

Sennes-Braies 159Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo,

Lazio e Molise 225Parco Nazionale dei Monti

Sibillini 252Parco Nazionale del Cilento

e Vallo di Diano 327Parco Nazionale del Gran

Paradiso 150-1, 153Parco Nazionale del Gran

Sasso e Monti della Laga 226

Parco Nazionale del Pollino 366

Parco Nazionale della Majella 223

Parco Nazionale della Sila 368

Parco Nazionale dell’Arcipelago di La Maddalena 406-7

Parco Nazionale dell’Aspromonte 370

Parco Nazionale delle Dolo-miti Bellunesi 191

Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 142

Parco Regionale del Monte Cucco 248-50

Parco Regionale Porto Selvaggio 354

Parco Thermale del Garda 182

444444

IND

EX M-P

parking 425Parma 282-4, 287Passo dello Stelvio 144Passo di Bocca

Trabaria 257-8Peggy Guggenheim

Collection 169Perugia 239-40, 243, 246-7,

253Pescara 222-3Pescaria 169Pescasseroli 225Pescocostanzo 224-5petrol 22, 425pharmacies 431Piazza dei Signori 207Piazza del Campo 52Piazza della Signoria 291Piazza di Spagna 43Piazza Navona 289Piazza Vecchia 111-12Piedmont 75-81Pienza 276, 279Pietrapertosa 361-2Pieve di San Floriano 180Pieve di San Giorgio 181Pimonte 309Pinacoteca Giovanni e

Marella Agnelli 84Pinacoteca Nazionale

(Bologna) 42Pioppi 329-30Pisa 53-5, 61Pisa, Leaning Tower 53Pisciotta 330, 331Pitigliano 232, 235Pizzo 368, 372plugs 430Poli Museo della Grappa 173Pompeii 12, 44, 303-4, 305Ponte delle Tette 203Ponte di Rialto 203Ponte Vecchio 291Poppi 241, 243

Portici 299Porto Ercole 230, 235Portofino 101-2, 106Portovenere 104-5, 107Positano 318, 323Possagno 190Praiano 318-19Pré-Saint Didier 152prosecco 191, 192public holidays 433Puglia 333-9, 341-7Pula 397

RRacconigi 70radio 426Ragusa 379, 392, 393Rapallo 102, 106Ravello 321-2, 323Ravenna 286, 287Reggia di Portici 299Reggia di Venaria Reale 71-2Reggio Calabria 370, 373Reggio Emilia 284, 287Renaissance art 57, 260Rialto Market 202Riomaggiore 104Riva del Garda 135-6, 137Rivello 359Rivoli 71, 73, 86road distances 425road rules 422, 423-5Roghudi Vecchio 370Roman Arena (Verona)

113, 178Roman Forum 51Roman Theatre (Aosta) 150Roman Villa

(Desenzano) 133-4Rome 10, 24-5

eating & sleeping 47, 60sights 43, 50-2, 288-9

Rovereto 144, 145Ruvo di Puglia 336

SSacra di San Michele 85-6safety 422-3, 426, 433Sagrestia Vecchia 290Salento 349-55Salerno 312, 313Salò 134, 137Saluzzo 88, 89San Daniele del Friuli 200,

201San Gimignano 52San Giorgio 94San Giovanni a Piro 330San Pietro in Cariano 180-1San Quirico d’Orcia 275-6San Remo 95-6, 97sanctuary walks 105Sansepolcro 258, 261Santa Cesarea Terme 352Santa Giulia 112Santa Maria Assunta in

Sambucina 366-7Santa Maria di Castellabate

328, 331Santa Maria di Leuca 354Santa Teresa di Gallura 407-

8, 409Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi

317-18Sant’Ambrogiodi

Valpolicella 181Sant’Antioco 398-400, 401Santo Stefano di

Sessanio 226Santuario della Verna 240-1Santuario di San

Michele 338Sapri 330Sardinia 395-401, 403-9,

411-17Sarnano 252, 253sassi 362Savona 93-4Savoy palaces 67-73

445445

IND

EX P-S

Scanno 226Scavi Archeologici di Ostia

Antica 215Sciacca 378-9Scicli 392Scuola dei Battuti 190-1seaplanes 128Segesta 377Selinunte 378Sentiero degli Dei 319Sestri Levante 102-4, 107Sestriere 87Sicily 375-85, 387-93Siena 52, 274-5, 279Sirmione 132-3, 137Sistine Chapel 15, 25skiing 152, 159, 198Slow Food 80smoking 427snails 78Soave 114, 117Sorrento 304, 305, 308-9,

313, 317, 323Sovana 230-2, 235Spoleto 250St Francis of Assisi 240St Peter’s Basilica 43Stabiae 304Stintino 408Stresa 120-2, 129Subiaco 218Sulmona 223-4Susa 86-7, 89Synagogue (Trieste) 196Syracuse 18, 382-3, 385,

389-90, 393

TTaormina 383, 385Tarquinia 234, 235Tarvisio 200, 201Teatro Argentina 288Teatro Carlo Felice 93Teatro Greco 383

Teatro La Fenice 39Teatro Olimpico 206Teatro San Carlo 44telephone services 23,

433-4Tempietto Longobardo 199Tempio di Antas 400Tempio di San Lorenzo 206Terme dei Papi 42Terme di Pré-Saint-

Didier 152Terme di Santa Cesarea 352Terme Merano 142-3The Last Supper 38time 427tipping 23, 432Tirano 142Tiscali 416Tivoli 218, 219toilets 434Torre d’Arnolfo 291Torre degli Asinelli 285Torre del Mangia 52, 274Torre Ghirlandina 56, 284Torri del Benaco 136tourist information 434train travel 123, 428Trani 336-7, 339transport 23, 427-8, see

also drivingTrapani 378, 384Tratalias 398Tremezzo 126-8Trento 144, 145Treviso 174, 175, 186Tricàrico 362Trieste 196-7, 201Tropea 368-9, 373trulli 346Turin

eating & sleeping 46, 73, 81, 89

sights 36-8, 68-70, 76-7, 84-5

Tuscany 18, 237-43, 263-71, 273-9

TV 427

UUdine 199-200, 201Unesco World Heritage

Sites 20, 49-61Università di Scienze

Gastronomiche 77-8University of Padua

anatomy theatre 39Urbino 256-7, 261

VVal di Fassa 158Valdobbiadene 190, 193Valle d’Aosta 17, 147-53Valle dell’Anapo 390Valle d’Itria 336, 341-7Valpelline 150Valpolicella 177-83Valtellina 141-2, 145Varenna 128Varese 123Vatican Museums 43Velia 330Venaria 71-2, 73Venice 12, 28-9

eating & sleeping 46, 61, 117, 175

sights 39-41, 57-8, 115, 169, 202-3

Ventimiglia 96, 97Verbania 122, 129Vernazza 104Verona 56, 113-14, 117, 178-9,

183Vesuvius 302-3Via Emilia 284Via Latte 87Vicenza 171, 175, 206-7Vico Equense 309, 317Vieste 338, 339

446446

IND

EX S-V

Vietri sul Mare 322Viggiano 359-60, 363Villa Adriana 217-18Villa Aldobrandini 216Villa Carlotta 126-7Villa Cipressi 128Villa della Torre 180Villa d’Este 218Villa di Maser 174, 188Villa Foscari 170Villa Foscarini Rossi 170Villa Lante 42Villa Melzi d’Eril 125-6Villa Monastero 128

Villa Mosconi Bertani 182Villa Nobel 96Villa Olmo 123Villa Panza 123Villa Pisani Nazionale 170Villa Romana del Casale 379Villa Rufolo 322Villa Serbelloni 125Villa Taranto 122Villa Valmarana ‘ai Nani’ 171villas 21visas 435Viterbo 42-3, 232-4, 235

WWalk of the Gods 319walks 88, 105, 164, 202-7,

288-91, 319, 322, 418-19weather 22websites 23, 422weights 427wi-fi 23, 431wildlife 226wine 20, 191, 192, 267, 270,

304, 431wine tours 178-83, 263-71World Heritage sites 20,

49-61

447447

IND

EX V-W

OUR WRITERS

DUNCAN GARWOODA Brit travel writer based in the Castelli Romani hills just outside Rome, Duncan has clocked up tens of thousands of kilometres driving through Italy and exploring its far-flung reaches. He’s co-author of the Rome city guide and has contributed to a host of Lonely Planet guidebooks including Italy, Piedmont, Sicily, Sardinia, and Naples and the Amalfi Coast. He has also written on Italy for newspapers, websites and magazines.

PAULA HARDYFrom the slopes of Valpolicella to the shores of Lake Como and the spritz-fuelled bars of Venice and Milan, Paula has been contributing to Lonely Planet Italian guides for over 15 years, including previous editions of Venice & the Veneto, Pocket Milan, The Italian Lakes, Sicily, Sardinia, Puglia & Basilicata and Italy. When she’s not scooting around the bel paese, she writes for a variety of travel publications and websites. Currently she divides her time between London, Italy and Morocco, and tweets her finds @paula6hardy.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end –

broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Read more about Duncan at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/duncangarwood Read more about Paula at: https://auth.

lonelyplanet.com/profiles/paulahardy

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, dis-claim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541532nd edition – March 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 321 6© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission

of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’