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Ragusa Ibla

Inspector Montalbano is a ctional character createdby the Sicilian writer Andrea Camilleri in a seriesof novels and short stories. The character was

then adapted for TV where the main character, SalvoMontalbano, lives and works in the ctional town ofVigàta, in the equally ctional district of Montelusa.Our suggested itinerary follows in the footsteps of therecent Italian detective series ‘Inspector Montalbano’and visits some of the most important historical sitesto be found in the south eastern corner of Sicily.

Day One:Arrive at Catania airport, collect your hire car anddrive to the Agriturismo Il Granaio in Modica. Dineat the same restaurant as Inspector Montalbano,the ‘Eusebio’ at the Hotel Eremo della Giubiliana inMarina di Ragusa. This former convent-fortress, datingback to the 1500s, is where some scenes from ‘TheVoice of the Violin’ were shot.

Day Two:Spend the morning leisurely wandering around theUNESCO World Heritage Site of Scicli (17km). Scicli isfull of wonderful baroque architecture, in particularPalazzo Beneventano and Palazzo Fava, and is framedby rocky cliffs. The Montalbano TV series is set in Scicliwhich doubles as the ctional town of Vigàta. Visit thetown hall (Municipio) which is Montalbano’s ofce(Commissariato di Vigàta). Just a few metres awayis the Palazzo Iacono on via Mormino Penna, whichrepresents the Questura of Montelusa (Police station).Don’t forget to pay a visit to the bakery ‘PasticceriaBasile’ on viale I° Maggio for a welcome taste of Sicily.

In the afternoon, head towards Donnalucata (9km)and its marina, which is used as the marina of Vigàtain ‘The Shape of Water’, ‘The Voice of the Violin’ andthe ‘Cat and Goldnch’. Continue along the coastlineup to Punta Secca (15km), a small shing village andthe ctional home of Montalbano (Marinella). This isactually a local Bed and Breakfast so you will only beable to admire it from the outside with its terrace andbeach, where Montalbano goes for his morning swim,directly below. Drive back to Sampieri to visit the

‘Mannara’, a former brickyard (Fornace Penna), whichis used as a tuna shery in the series. Overnight stayin Modica.

Day Three:After breakfast, head to the Castello di Donnafugata(37km), a new-gothic mansion that dates back to the1800s. The house is the ctional home of BalduccioSinagra, the local maa boss, who meets InspectorMontalbano in the episode ‘Excursion to Tindari’.En route to Ragusa, stop at Grotta delle Trabacche,an ancient cemetery from the Roman period, whereMontalbano nds two dead bodies in the episode‘The Terracotta Dog’.

Continue on to Ragusa Ibla and have lunch at LaRusticana (which is the ‘Trattoria San Calogero’ inthe series), on Corso XXV Aprile, where Montalbanonormally lunches. Visit the town’s main square,Duomo di San Giorgio, which doubles as Vigàta’sctional square. Stroll through the characterfulstreets, steeped in baroque architecture. Overnightstay in Modica.

Day Four:Morning at leisure in Modica (9km). Visit anotherbaroque jewel which is also the setting for manyepisodes including the Duomo of San Giorgio, whichwas used in the episode ‘Excursion to Tindari’. Taketime to enjoy some of Modica’s delights including thelocal dark chocolate produced from an ancient Aztecrecipe.

In the afternoon, head towards Marzamemi (46km),a tiny shing village where the main square, PiazzaRegina Margherita, is bordered by ancient houses,two churches, bars, restaurants and the Palazzodel Principe di Villadorata. Stop for dinner at the‘Giramapao’ restaurant, a former tuna shery, whichserves excellent fresh sh. Overnight stay in Modica.

Day Five:Today head for Syracuse (75km), a former Greek citywhich boasts many ancient artefacts from the period

and is a major archaeological site. Visit the islandof Ortigia attached to Syracuse by a bridge. Theisland has a small but enchanting historical centredominated by its Cathedral (Duomo), with a dramaticbaroque façade. Continue south to the town of Noto(39km), destroyed in 1693 by a tragic earthquake,and then entirely rebuilt in the new baroque style.The Inorata festival takes place here on the thirdweekend in May. The festivities unfold on the mainthoroughfare ‘Via Nicolaci’ where the street is coveredwith oral masterpieces designed by different artists.Overnight stay in Modica.

Day Six:Visit the Villa Romana del Casale in Piazza Armerina(111km). This Roman manor house, declared aUNESCO World Heritage Site, boasts the largest, mostcomplex collection of Roman mosaics in the world,many of which have been recently restored. Spend theafternoon in Caltagirone (31km), noted for its Sicilianceramics industry which dates back over a thousandyears. The main landmark of the city is the 142-stepmonumental staircase of Santa Maria del Monte,built from 1608 in the old part of the town. Each stepis adorned with different hand-decorated ceramics.Overnight stay in Modica.

Day Seven:Day at leisure. Spend the day by the pool or in the sparelaxing.

Day Eight:Free time in Modica to enjoy some last minuteshopping before departing for Catania airport andyour return ight home.

I t i n e r a r y

Follow in the footsteps ofInspector Montalbano 7-nights

Prices from £770 per person based on two-sharing. Please telephone us for a quotation.Price includes: Direct scheduled ights from LondonGatwick to Catania 7-nights’ bed and breakfastaccommodation as stated 7 days car hire ‘Group A’ – seepage 120 for car hire details.

Duration Accommodation Location Page

7n Agriturismo Il Granaio Modica 100

Note: Alternative accommodation available on request.Please telephone us for a quotation.

SicilyEastern Sicily - Suggested Itinerary

116 Sunvil Discovery

Scicli

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Historic centre, Lipari

In a cave in Lipari, Aeolus kept the winds captive,and he gave Ulysses a fair breeze in a pigskin bag.If you like islands, you will like Lipari, Vulcano,

Stromboli, Panarea, Salina, Filicudi and Alicudi.

Lipari with an area of approximately 15 square miles,is the largest of the seven Aeolian islands and a goodbase for excursions, with frequent boats (punctual)and buses (unpunctual). The locals are very friendlyand helpful. The island is particularly remarkable forits varied scenery, with a jagged coastline surroundedby unpolluted waters and an array of colours from thegreen vegetation and white pumice stones to blackand red volcanic rocks.

Lipari town has an ancient acropolis crowned by acastle, a cathedral and a ne museum (the swimmingoff the rocks below is a bonus). The choice ofrestaurants and trattorias is reasonably good, withplenty of freshly-caught sh to be had. Fifteen minuteson the bus brings you to Canneto, a quiet seasidevillage with a superb, safe bathing beach nearby(known as ‘The White Beach’ from the pumice particlesthat form its sand).

The island of Vulcano, approximately 8 squaremiles in area, lies at the southern-most point of theAeolian group. Separated from Lipari by just a smallstretch of sea, Vulcano remains a jewel of rare beautyand unspoilt nature, evident in its lush vegetation,smoky fumaroles, renowned natural mud pool andthe release of sulphur and warm waters close to theLevante beach. The volcano dominates the islandand its peak can be reached in a round trip of about3 hours. The hard work certainly pays off as there arebreathtaking views over the six islands, with Stromboliand its smoking eruptions standing out.

Vulcano is characterised by its two bays: Baia diLevante and Baia di Ponente. The former, with neblack sand, is known as ‘Acque Calde’ due to its hotwaters emerging from undersea springs generated byoutlets of volcanic gas, used for healing therapies. Thelatter is known as ‘Sabbie Nere’ because of its volcanicblack sands.

Access to the islands is by boat. The hydrofoil (footpassengers) and ferry (car and passengers) servicesusually depart (year-round) from Milazzo, on Sicily’snorth coast and connect with Lipari, Vulcano and otherpoints in the Aeolian Islands. On arrival at Cataniaairport, clients are transferred to the port of Milazzo(150km, c.90-minutes drive) in order to board the

boat across to Vulcano (c.45-minutes by hydrofoil) orLipari (c.1-hour by hydrofoil). Other departure pointsfrom Sicily include Cefalù, where the crossing takesbetween 1.5 to 4.5 hours, depending on which islandyou are heading for (services usually run from June tomid-September).

Day One:Arrive at Catania airport and transfer to Hotel VillaParadiso in Taormina.

Day Two:Day at leisure - spend the morning at the VillaParadiso’s beach club in Letojanni. There is acomplimentary shuttle bus that runs to the beach clubbetween June and October. Guests have free use ofthe swimming pool, changing facilities, shaded gardenarea with sun lounges and direct access to a longsandy beach. In the afternoon, explore the delightsof Taormina with its Greco-Roman theatre, charmingboutiques and shops, botanic gardens and open-airdining.

Day Three:Morning transfer to Milazzo port to catch the hydrofoilto Lipari (1 hour crossing). Transfer to the Hotel RocceAzzurre. In the afternoon, visit the castle, the Normancathedral of San Bartolommeo (built on the site of anancient acropolis) or marvel at the stunning sceneryfrom Quattrocchi viewpoint with its spectacularpanorama across the archipelago.

Day Four:Day at leisure - spend the day swimming in thesea and relaxing on the small beach by the hotel.Alternatively, take the opportunity to island hop andvisit one or more of the other seven Aeolian islands.

Day Five:Morning self transfer to the port to catch the boat toVulcano (30-minutes journey). Transfer to the TherasiaResort.

Day Six:Day at leisure - spend the day on Vulcano. ‘Take thecure’ in a sulphur pool and wash off in a curiousbubbling sea - catching more than a whiff of Vulcanhimself! Walk to the top of the volcano for a fabulousview of the crater and surrounding archipelago.

Day Seven:Day at leisure - take the opportunity to island hop. VisitStromboli and see one of the most active volcanoeson earth spill out its splendid re.

Day Eight:After breakfast, transfer back to Catania airport for yourreturn ight home.

Price from £1215 per person based ontwo-sharing. Please telephone us for a quotation.Price includes: Scheduled ights from London Gatwick toCatania 7-nights’ bed and breakfast accommodation asstated Transfers on arrival and departure including boattickets (excluding boat between Lipari and Vulcano).

I t i n e r a r y

Sicily and the Aeolian Islands7-nights

Duration Accommodation Location Page

2n Hotel Villa Paradiso Taormina 78

2n Hotel Rocce Azzurre Lipari 89

3n Hotel Therasia Resort & Spa Vulcano 90

SicilyEastern Sicily – Suggested Itinerary

Real Italy & Sicily 117

Sulphur pool, Vulcano