ItaliaVacanze

ITALIAUnmissable destinations

from the Alps to the islands of the South

4

Italia Vacanze New n. 0 – www.italiavacanze.com

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South Tyrol .......................... 6All the magic of the mountains and the Middle Ages

Bolzano

A land of beauty: spa treatments and wellness

Trentino ............................... 12A natural paradise set amidst the mountains

Trento

Fun and adventure for all the family

Lake Garda ...................... 16A small sea among the mountains

Riva

For a holiday... made for all the family

Lombardy .......................... 20A region with a thousand different faces

Milan

Lake Como, the pleasure residences

Veneto ................................... 24A kaleidoscope of emotions

Walled cities and cities on water

Venice

In the name of relaxation and fun

Friuli Venezia Giulia ....32At the edges of the territory, in the centre of history

Trieste

A region to discover... underground!

Liguria .................................. 36A balcony over the Mediterranean

Genoa

A magical land of water

Emilia Romagna .......... 40A land of passions and pleasure

Bologna

The riviera... that never sleeps!

Tuscany ................................ 44Picture postcard views

From sunfl owers to woods

Firenze

Versilia: trend-setting beaches

The Island of Elba ....... 54A gem of an island

One small island, many small towns

Wonders under the sea

Marche ................................. 58Nature and culture: a region’s trademark

Urbino

Velvety beaches

Latium .................................. 62Set between ancient splendour and modern gems

Rome

Castles, hills and fl ower festivals

Abruzzo .............................. 66The spectacle of nature

Chieti

On the trail of the wolf and the bear

Campania .......................... 70The wonderful treasures of a Terra Felix

Naples

Islands of beauty and wellbeing

Apulia ................................... 74One land, two seas, a thousand splendours

Lecce

Village fairs and festivals with the rhythm of the pizzica

Calabria ............................. 78The toe of the boot

Reggio Calabria

The sea beloved by the gods

Sicily ..................................... 82The island on which the sun shines

Agrigento

Corners of paradise in the blue

Sardinia .............................. 88Mediterranean princess

An island of timeless traditions

Cagliari

Along the coasts of a crystal-clear sea

Index

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NNow Italia Vacanze has adopted a completely new format to respond to the

discerning requirements of contemporary tourism and to give enhanced visibility

to our country’s tourist attractions.

No longer just a catalogue focused primarily on the promotion of camping sites

and distributed at European trade fair events. From today, this publication

takes the form of a magazine and presents Italy as the holiday destination par

excellence, in all seasons. Because holidaying in Italy is not just about sea or

snow, but also comprises cities of art, archaeology, ancient villages, landscapes,

fine food and wine, spas, music, fashion and events to enjoy all the year round.

The articles in the magazine put the accent on each Italian region’s historical and

artistic features, landscape and food and wine specialities, by addressing three

topics: the first describes the distinctive characteristics of the region, followed

by a more detailed description of a particular city or area, to conclude with a box

dedicated to the typical products of the region featured in the article.

To respond to the tourist’s need for practical information, the magazine will

be accompanied by a HOSPITALITY supplement providing a description of

accommodation facilities and a visit to the area presented. Space is dedicated

to the various facilities (hotels, holidays villages and campsites, holiday farms,

B&B) in order to provide a detailed description and a more specifically targeted

and exhaustive account of Italy’s tourist offering.

The magazine will also be available on italiavacanze.com, with more extensive

editorial contents and detailed information about tourist facilities and structures.

You are now browsing through number “0”, reserved for international tourism

trade fairs, which has been published in English and German for the time

being. In Spring, after receiving and evaluating your remarks and comments

regarding this initiative, for which we thank you in advance, we shall publish the

Italian edition for distribution through news-stands, with two numbers focused

respectively on the summer and winter seasons.

Have a nice journey!

6

Alto AdigeWedged between the Central Alps, in the

valleys formed by the rivers Adige and Isarco,

where mountains are the unquestioned

protagonists. This is South Tyrol, with its

towns of Bolzano and Meran, which ever since ancient times

has been at the centre of the most important thoroughfares

and, for this same reason, was dotted with towers, citadels

and castles during the Middle Ages. The mountain chain of

the Dolomites, which stands to the South East, represents

the most famous icon of this territory, the natural habitat

of marmots, alpine ibexes and golden eagles. A mention is

also due to the fi ne food specialities offered by this territory:

the queen of them all is certainly the South Tyrolean apple

IGP, cultivated over an area of 18,000 hectares, but don’t

forget to taste the local malga cheese (the “Grigio” variety in

particular) and speck, typical ingredients of alpine cuisine

which team marvellously with the famous Tyrolean wines,

products of an age-old tradition.

All the magic of the mountains and the Middle AgesSOUTH TYROL

7

Midst the green woods and sharp rocky peaks, we find towers,

castles and battlements to testify to the strategic importance

played by South Tyrol in ancient times: these valley routes

in the proximity of mountain passes, whose roads served to

transport merchandise and culture, had to be defended and

protected. The castles, above all, with their stories and legends,

allow for a global interpretation of this land.

Castles that tell of battles and knights, such as Castel Coira,

in the Venosta Valley, commissioned in the mid 13th century by

some Swiss bishops who set up an armoury within its walls,

which is still quite impressive today: the prime exhibit of this

collection of ancient weapons – the largest private collection in

the world – is the huge 15th century suit of armour that once

belonged to Ulrich IX of Matsch.

Castles perched high up on rocky crags, like Castel d’Appi-ano, built at the start of the XII century at a height of 628 m

to guard over the Adige Valley, or those which enchant visitors

with their decorative Romanic and Gothic frescoes, as in the

case of Castel Roncolo at the gates of Bolzano, a city cas-

tle that is also classified as an “illustrated manor” thanks to its

frescoes, which are some of the most important in the Tyrol.

Castles which wholeheartedly adopt the production of local

craftsmen: Castel Tures, located in the valley of the same

name, whose 64 rooms are almost entirely wood-panelled and

which preserves its medieval wood furniture in excellent con-

dition, and Castel Tasso, rising on a rock in the marsh of Vip-

iteno (now inexistent), which treasures the late-gothic carved

wooden furnishings in its magnificent halls (don’t miss the

Green Room) and an extraordinary perforated wooden gate in

the Chapel of Saint Zeno.

So these monuments are all quite different from each other,

but share the same magnificence, charm, stories, tales, legends

and historical characters, to narrate the splendour of this area

in Mediaeval times and its importance for Europe as a nerve

centre: Castel Forte, in Ponte Gardena, was the birthplace of

one of the last poets of courtly love, Oswald von Wolkenstein,

who told the stories of feudal life and chivalrous deeds from

the Knights Room; or what about Castel Trauttmansdorff

which hosted the Empress Sissy in the nineteenth century dur-

ing her numerous winter stays, so frequently indeed that the

road leading from the castle to the old town centre of Meran

is known as “the Sissy Promenade”. The Castle of Castelbel-lo, on the other hand, is a testimony of ancient Roman times

with its permanent exhibition “Via Claudia Augusta, a Roman

road through the Venosta Valley”, while we are catapulted into

the Baroque period with Castel Wolfsthurn, in Racines, the

reconstruction of a medieval building standing out from the

woods with its charmingly elegant profile, which houses exhi-

bitions of folk art, fun activities for children and the Provincial

Hunting and Fishing Museum.

There are over 200 castles in the area around Bolzano: cita-

dels, towers, palaces and stately homes that may all be easily

reached by car, but also along the numerous footpaths and the

so-called “wine roads”, for trekking and mountain bike enthu-

siasts or for the lovers of fine food and drink. No matter what

their interests are, everyone can enjoy the same scenery, the

marvellous mountains surrounding the town, a quartz porphy-

ry volcanic rock formation of an amazing tone of red, and the

green expanses of orchards and vineyards.

South Tyrol is also associated with the Ladin language: in Val

Badia, the Ciastel del Tor, which hosts the Ladin Museum,

also preserves the documentary evidence of the history of this

language. However, as South Tyrolean tradition would have it,

the “heart of the country” is Castel Tirolo, which has majes-

tically dominated the Meran basin since 1120 as decreed by

the Counts of Venosta, later to be called the Counts of Tyrol. A

castle which now hosts the Historical and Cultural Museum of

the Province of Bolzano and whose name represents the entire

identity and cultural autonomy of this area.

On top of the world, among towers and castles

Opposite page: the Lake of Landro, in the Pusteria valley. Top of page from left: the Odle Massif; the Trapp armoury of Castel Coira; the Tappeiner promenade in Meran.

Below: Castel Tirolo.

8

Bolzano The enchanted town nestling among the mountains

Bolzano stands at an altitude of 262 m, and was already

mentioned by Paolo Diacono in his Historia Langobardorum

under the name of Bauzanum and archeologically docu-

mented in the Early Middle Ages, when the city walls were

demolished to allow the townspeople, with their strong in-

clination for commerce, to welcome traders coming from the

north and south.

The city parlour is Walther square, onto which the Cathe-dral of Santa Maria Assunta faces, and where the statue of

Walther von der Vogelweide, the greatest German medieval

poet, occupies a dominant position. The town’s symbol is cer-

tainly the cathedral bell tower which, from its height of 65 m,

represents one of the masterpieces of the international gothic

style; the pitched roof with its elegant composition of green,

white and yellow tiles is particularly striking and confers a

lively aspect to the entire square. Furthermore, positioned on

the western façade of the Church stands the so-called “Ma-

donna of speech”, whose miraculous powers are invoked by

mothers of children with speech difficulties.

Some marvellous frescoes of the Giotto school may be ad-

mired in the nearby Dominican Church, beyond which lies

the most ancient part of the city, with its little square called

piazzetta delle Erbe, the porticoed street Laubengasse delim-

ited by Gothic buildings and a criss-cross of narrow streets:

Vineyards surrounding the cas-

tles, expanses of grapes growing on

the fl atlands nestling between the

mountains: South Tyrolean wine

speaks the language of tradition

and landscape, as well as innova-

tion. The 16 municipal areas, mak-

ing up the so-called Wine Road,

bring the Wine Festival to life along

its 70 km trail every year from May

to June.

In the area around Bolzano, the

grapes of the robust and velvety

Santa Maddalena and the typical

Lagrein vines come to maturity. In

the Oltradige and Val d’Adige vis-

tors must taste the excellent white

wines of these areas and rediscov-

er the famous Schiava del Lago di

Caldaro, while further south, in

Termeno, where it is produced, an-

other not-to-be-missed experience

is that of Gewürztraminer, a deli-

cately aromatic wine.

In Caldaro, the Provincial Wine

Museum tells the story of the local

wine producing tradition.

Along the wine road

9

««

a series of contemporary shops housed in old workshops is a

particularly charming sight. It is actually on the street of the

Porticos that the South Tyrol Archaeological Museum is

situated, showcasing an extremely precious collection of pre-

historic and proto-historic engraved stelae statues, but whose

unquestioned protagonist is ötzi, the mummy of a hunter

who lived over 5000 years ago and discovered on the Sim-

ilaun glacier, on the border between Italy and Austria at an

altitude of over 3213 m. The body of ötzi (whose name means

“iceman”) is presented to the public in an innovative manner:

it is positioned in a special atmosphere that guarantees its

preservation, but visible through small apertures. Visitors will

be fascinated by the studies carried out on the tattoos found

on the man’s body, as well as the numerous reconstructions

of his clothing and equipment supported by detailed expla-

nations of how they were constructed and used. If the man

of the Similaun Glacier offers a unique insight into what life

used to be like in this area in the Copper Age, it is the famous

South Tyrolean alpinist Reinold Messner who, with his MMM

“Mountain Messner Museum” describes the emotional rela-

tionship between contemporary man and the mountains: a

museum project spread over five different facilities, all locat-

ed in South Tyrol (the main branch has its premises in Castel Firmiano, close to Bolzano) which illustrates the themes as-

sociated with mountain sacredness, the world of ice, alpinism

on the Dolomites and mountain communities.

The Renon cableway departs from the centre of Bolzano

and, in just over a quarter of an hour, reaches the Colle di

Villa (Bolzano’s “mountain”), San Genesio and Soprabolzano,

where it is possible to visit some interesting geological for-

mations known as “the pyramids of land”. The first 950 m of

altitude had already been conquered early in the twentieth

century with the “Renon train”, a thoroughly futuristic project

at the time which had no equal anywhere in the world.

Back in town, it is possible to admire a rare example of a

lowland castle set among the mountains: even today, Castel Mareccio is still surrounded by hectares of vineyards; it was

Opposite page: a street in the old town centre of Bolzano.

This page, from the top: a detail of the cathedral roof in Bolzano;

Castel Mareccio in Bolzano.

Province: Bolzano

Altitude: 262 m asl

Inhabitants: 104 841

Tourist information:

Tourist Board, Piazza Walther 8

tel. +39 0471 307000 – www.bolzano-bozen.it

first erected in the Middle Ages, but was later given a new

look to satisfy the architectural criteria of the 16th century,

and is now a location used for events and exhibitions.

Bolzano is also a modern town, and this is quite apparent

on passing the Talvera bridge and visiting the districts that

were built when it was no longer part of Austria and an-

nexed by Italy. This is the best spot in town to admire the

enchanting Dolomite peaks which offer a breathtaking view

at any time of the day.

10

A land of beauty:spa treatments and wellness

It was first frequented by historical personages and cultural

celebrities: for its beauty, its nature and the fact that it has

always represented an oasis of wellness. In fact, thanks to

its oligo mineral waters rich in radon (a highly soluble gas

suitable for vasodilatation, anti-inflammatory and deconges-

tion therapies) Meran has plenty to offer to those wishing to

enjoy a period of relaxation, wellness or therapy immersed in

the splendour of the South Tyrolean landscape.

The first promoter of this idea was the physician, Josef Wai-

bl, who wrote a little book in 1836 praising the beneficial

properties of Meran’s air and waters. So, in the first half of

the 19th century, the city became a “health” resort: the first

hydrotherapeutic centre was built in 1840 and the first centre

for medical treatments in 1850. It was Dr. Franz Tappeiner

who decided to have a number of subtropical plant species

planted in the area, and these continue to confer a rather

unique and particular charm to the entire surroundings.

The Empress Sissy made the town very fashionable, so much

so that between the end of the 19th and the start of the 20th

century it was considered to be the “health” resort par excel-

lence, with over one million overnight stays registered each

year. The radon springs were discovered in the thirties: Mer-

an went from being a health resort to a spa, with the opening

of new facilities in the seventies and in 2000, supported by

a great architectural project which gave Meran a totally new

image.

Visitors are immersed in a transparent environment, in

which they can admire splendid mountain scenery on all

sides, surrounded by an interior design in wood and stone

11

signed by Thun, and a surface area of over 2000 sq m of spa

water. Spoilt for choice, therefore, when it comes to pamper-

ing and caring for body and spirit. With specific treatments

for arthro-rheumatic, dermatological, vascular, ear, nose and

throat, gynaecological and urinary therapies.

And with something to please the whole family, in the way

of theme trails and playing grounds. Without forgetting the

opportunities for walking (the famous Tappeiner walk is

over 3 km long), and discovering the characteristic porticoed

streets of South Tyrolean hamlets and cities, dominated by

churches (the Medieval cathedral) and castles (dating back

to the 15th century).

For those who have set their sights higher, it is possible to

start from the 325 m of Meran and proceed towards San Martino in Badia, over 1100 m, characterized by cold min-

eral waters with a bitter salty taste, and also recommended

for various types of treatments, starting from those of the

respiratory system. All of which is offered in the simplicity

of country-style facilities, for true connoisseurs, where it is

possible to get away from it all and abandon oneself to the

simple pleasure of well-being.

Also located at an altitude of over 1000 m, at less than two

hours from Meran, are the Salomon baths in Rasun Anter-selva which exploit the cold water springing from the

granitic rocks known for their diuretic and anti-inflamma-

tory properties. An oasis of relaxation in a corner of South

Tyrol that is still uncontaminated, surrounded by peaks that

rise over 3000 m.

But the spa baths located in the Dolomites are also an ex-

cellent opportunity to regenerate body and soul: what better

way to rest than in the sulphurous waters of Sesto, after a

long walk or a climbing excursion in the mountains.

You just have to choose between a bath in hay or milk. Or, if

you prefer, get doused in the most famous and genuine local

product, apples.

You can go for a treatment in essential oil of mugo pine, vi-

nasse or chestnut. In South Tyrol, wellness has the scent of

nature, mountains, tradition and local produce. In fact, there

are treatments with Vipiteno yogurt, or with the novelties

of quartz in Val di Vizze, where treatments derive from an

ancient tradition.

Without forgetting the numerous Kneipp trails, which con-

sist in walking barefoot over different surfaces in hot and

cold water: this natural treatment reduces stress, as well as

stimulating the mind and body.

In Tesido, for instance, it is possible to try the Kneipp Rud-

lbach trail: surrounded by the woods, plunge your feet into

9°C cold stream water, and follow the various stages of the

trail as you relax and meditate.

In Upper Pusteria, in Villabassa, there is one of the finest

Kneipp trails in the Alps, set in a children’s playground, for

family-style relaxation, just like Varna, close to Bressanone,

where children may also use the trail designed for playing

and exercising.

Moving on to the Val Venosta, the Bear Bath was constructed

in 2008 in Solda; it is entirely made from natural materials

and looks onto the peaks of Ortles, Zebrù and Gran Zebrù.

On these pages: relaxation and wellness in the spas of South Tyrol.

12

TrentinoTrentino offers a rugged mountain

landscape, the stunning sight of the

Dolomites which have been recognised

as a UNESCO World Heritage Site,

parks and nature reserves, as well as experiences

in close contact with nature suitable for all types

of visitor. Trentino is dominated by mountains

and the region offers all this with the delicate

interlude of views of vineyards and orchards as

well as the surprising addition of small blue lakes

set between the peaks. The area is structured

around numerous Alpine valleys (in particular,

near the valley of the river Adige). Trento is its

most representative city and the region offers

visitors a range of small and large towns with

rich traditions and enormous tourist appeal.

A natural paradise set amidst the mountains

TRENTINO

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There is an extremely original way of exploring the Trentino

area. You could call it “trekking on the trail of legends”: walk-

ing, observation and climbing accompanied by stories, tradi-

tions and the profound soul of an environment surrounded by

rocks and open to the sky. A large hiking trail based on this

theme links the Valley of San Martino in Castrozza, the Fassa

Valley and the Fiemme Valley. The trail is equipped with clearly

marked signs for about 200 km of paths with 9 stops for more

detailed exploration.

According to the most popular legend, the Dolomites are also

known as the Pale Mountains. During the period of the an-

cient Kingdom of the Dolomites, when the rock of the moun-

tains had the same colour as the Alps and everything was

covered with flowering meadows, lush woods and enchanted

lakes, the air was filled with happiness and harmony. In every

place, apart from the royal castle, where the king’s son was

condemned to live far from his bride, the Moon Princess: he

was destined to be blinded by the sight of the bright light of

the Moon while she was forced to remain far away from the

dark gloomy mountains and from the shaded woods. As he

wandered through the woods in desperation, the prince came

across the Prince of the Salvans, a gnome in search of a land

for his people: in exchange for permission to inhabit these

woods with his people, the small king made the mountains of

the kingdom shiny. The gnomes worked the whole night long

and covered all the rocks with moonlight. The princess was

thus able to return to her groom and the Dolomites became

the Pale Mountains.

The snow, the mountain, the sun, and the woods are often

the main characters of these charming stories which are pro-

foundly linked to the environment and the climate. This is the

case of the Snow Princess of the Fassa Valley, who could

not be exposed to sunlight because otherwise she would

have melted but, at the same time, could not do without the

warmth of the mountain: the king therefore decided to abol-

ish the sun from his kingdom and all the inhabitants inverted

their lifestyles by sleeping during the day and working during

the night. The situation soon became unsustainable and when

the princess learned that she was the cause of the suffering

of the kingdom’s inhabitants, she decided to sacrifice herself

for her people by going out into the sunshine. In Canazei,

the Ombretta Pass (The Pass of the small shadow) still exists

today in her memory.

A romantic legend explains why the waters of Lake Tovel in

Tuenno turn red once a year: according to the story, Queen

Trasenga had decided not to marry to avoid dividing her king-

dom. Lavinto, the King of Tuenno, having seen his advances

rejected, avenged himself by killing the queen and her army

on the shores of the lake whose waters were tinged with the

colour of the blood.

Each part of Trentino has its own myths and legends; just enter

the towns and villages, listen to the tales of the local inhabit-

ants and find out the origin of the curious names of the moun-

tain peaks: it provides the chance to discover elves, saints,

people and magic objects, but in particular an opportunity to

encounter nature coming to life.

Heart-warming legends

of the Trentino area

Opposite page: the Gruppo del Cristallo (Crystal Massif). Top of page from left to right: the Lake of Tovel; vineyards around Arco.

Strudel, the typical dessert of the Trentino area, has ancient

Turkish origins. The recipe underwent variations and was

transformed by the Hungarians into the apple strudel we are

familiar with today which soon spread to Austria. It is not hard

to imagine how the recipe quickly travelled from Austria to

Trentino, where it is now considered the region’s most traditi-

onal dish, partly due to the excellent apples grown in the area.

Apples are the crucial ingredient of the filling of this pastry roll

which also contains raisins, pine nuts and cinnamon.

The Turks and apples

«

Trento, a city with a thousand different faces

Province: Trento

Altitude: 194 m asl

Inhabitants: 117 070

Tourist information:

Azienda per il turismo Trento, Monte Bondone,

Valle dei Laghi

Piazza della Portella, 3

www.apt.trento.it

jestic height of 41 metres. The main monument in the square

is the eighteenth century fountain of Neptune, the symbol

of the plentiful supply of water available to the city. Another

symbol of the city is the so-called Wheel of Fortune, the large

rose window in the northern transept of the cathedral where

the historic Council of Trent, the bastion of the Counter-Refor-

mation, was held between 1545 and 1563.

It is worth visiting the amazing Castle of Buonconsiglio, the

largest and most important monumental complex of Trenti-

no-South Tyrol which, with its mighty walls and towers built

over fi ve centuries, houses exceptional collections of art works.

The frescoes in the Torre Aquila, with the portrayal of the Twelve

Months, represent one of the most fascinating painting cycles

of the late Middle Ages. An alternative itinerary for discover-

ing the city is to follow the frescoed façades of the sixteenth

century buildings along the historic road between the Castle

of Buonconsiglio and piazza del Duomo. Along this street the

Renaissance blends in harmoniously with other architectural

styles which, together with the traces of Roman Trento, docu-

ment the history of the city.

Trento, with Palazzo delle Albere, is also one of the premises

of MART, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Trento e Rov-

ereto. The museum is an international showcase of art from

Futurism to the present day, with particular attention devoted

to new artists and educational initiatives linked to art. A com-

pletely different experience is offered by the Museo Triden-tino di Scienze Naturali, the city’s natural history museum

with sections devoted to biodiversity and geology, which ex-

plore the origins of the Dolomite area, explaining the reason

for the famous proverb “the place where the Dolomites now

stand was once sea”.

A lowland city surrounded by mountains, Trento benefi ts from

the presence of the lush green mountains just as a house ben-

efi ts from its garden. The city’s character, the openness typical

of urban centres in the plains, contrasts only slightly with the

reserved nature of the typical mountain town: this makes Tren-

to a lively place to visit in any season of the year. Everything

revolves around piazza del Duomo, the heart of the city,

which was once the centre of religious and civic power, and

is still today the main meeting place of the city. The square

is dominated by two magnifi cent buildings: the extraordinary

Romanesque Cathedral, dedicated to St. Vigilius, which can be

explored by visiting the underground archaeological exca-vations beneath the paleochristian basilica dedicated to the

saint, and the Palazzo Pretorio (town hall) with the medieval

Municipal Tower which looks down on the city from the ma-

15

Opposite page, from the top: Trento, the fountain of Neptune and the Castle of Buonconsiglio. On this page, from the top: kayaking on the river Noce; trekking on the Dolomites.

Fun and adventurefor all the family

So it’s just a question of gloves, a helmet, harnesses, pulleys

and snap-hooks and then … go and have fun!

It isn’t necessary to walk high above the ground to discov-

er the area! There are plenty of routes organised by various

associations of mountain guides that will satisfy young peo-

ple’s desire to be active, play and have fun together while

learning to discover nature and the mountain environment

with its rich wildlife. From this point of view, the mountain

becomes even more stimulating, fun and educational! Es-

pecially on foot, during walks and trekking, but also when

cycling (various centres offer downhill and mountain bike

activities). There is even the opportunity to “ride” the rapids

of the Avisio and Roldone rivers and the river Noce with

rafting, hydrospeed activities, canyoning and kayaking!

In this case, the essentials include a helmet, swimming cos-

tume, wetsuit, life belt and a rubber dinghy... and off you go!

Where to? To Pera, Campitello and Pozza di Fassa, to Arco and

to Ponte Rosso–Carisolo, but also to Masi di Cavalese, San

Martino di Castrozza and Malè. In Centa San Nicolò there is

one of the most well-equipped parks of its kind in Trentino

(Acropark), while in Val di Breguzzo there is the largest ad-

venture park in the area (Breg Adventure Park). Visitors can

choose Tuenno in the heart of the Adamello Brenta Nature

Reserve, or Commezzadura in Val di Sole, Tres in Val di Non,

Molveno on the plateau of Pradel. There are also the towns of

Madonna di Campiglio, Polsa di Brentonico, Vason and Ziano

di Fiemme. Lastly, our tip for a truly breathtaking adventure:

the sledge run on the Alpine Coaster monorail (in Predazzo

Gardonè), rollercoasters at their most mountainous!

Any mention of tarzaning, agility forest adventure park,

Tibetan bridges, log-rolling, spider nets and action ad-venture in the heart of the Dolomites just serves to high-

light the area’s natural vocation for active holidays and

family tourism. There are more than 20 adventure parks

in Trentino which provide people of all ages with ex-

citement, fun and the first chance to experience moun-

tain sports. Everything is organised according to strin-

gent safety requirements with the expert assistance of

the staff and mountain guides. You will need to pluck up

your courage to cross a river hanging in the air or on sus-

pended rope bridges, or to take a daring leap into space!

There are technological versions or more natural versions:

tarzaning, for example, refers to walking between trees using

ropes (which can also be called “lianas” to stay in a suitably

“wild” context), completely in harmony with the forest envi-

ronment, following a series of breathtaking acrobatic aerial

paths. Visitors can also begin “with their heads in the clouds”

and slide down to the ground to get a real rush of adrena-

lin carefully gauged to the age of the participants who can

choose among Kid Adventure trails, suitable for small chil-

dren, Junior trails and paths suitable for adults and “Braves

Only”, only advisable for the most daring. The great range of

activities also includes the monorail, with the sledge, offer-

ing incredibly steep descents and 360 degree turns providing

spectacular views of the Trentino fir forests. There are also

facilities for anyone interested in learning to climb; these in-

clude climbing gyms and vie ferrate (iron paths) to have an

initial contact and the right training for these types of sport.

16

Lago diGarda

With an area of 370 km2, it is the

largest Italian lake. It is called

Benàco, but mostly known by

everyone as Lake Garda.

A connecting point between the three regions,

Lombardia (the Brescia side), Veneto (the Verona

side) and Trentino-South Tyrol (the tip to the

north), it is developed in parallel to the river

Adige, which is divided by the massif of Monte

Baldo, and a favourite destination for European

tourists. To attract them, the Mediterranean

climate, the wide range of entertainment and

sports, the wellness oasis, the cuisine and the many

artistic and archaeological sites. In short, that air

of holidays that you breathe in all year round.

A small sea among

the mountains LAKE GARDA

17

The towns on the shores of this small sea, with mild

temperatures and bright sunshine, wedged between the

mountains in the north and the hills to the south, can be joined

by an imaginary line that follows the paths of wine and oil. The now historic productions from the Riviera of Olives,

in fact, have always characterised the landscape of the area,

tenaciously keeping up with the ever growing demand for

tourist services. You will encounter the grapes of the classic

Bardolino wine, olives protected by the consortium that

guarantees the quality of extra virgin oil from Garda, but also

the white and yellow-fl eshed peaches, plums from Dro and the

kiwis from the plain of Affi .

Going down the west bank of the lake, the mountain with its

overhanging rocks is undisputed master until after Gargnano.

Here the landscape, rich with its olive groves spread on

different levels, transforms in the Regional Park of Alto Garda Bresciano, with the characteristic structures of the

citrus groves that have made the lake famous in the past.

Today, the production has mostly demonstration purposes; it

is up to the enthusiast to search among the numerous small

structures that allow you to enjoy some genuine lemons or

citrons. Being in the mountains, and overlooking the “sea”,

you can not miss out on Garda cheese with all its varieties,

hard or soft, mature or fresh. And the truffl es, with the best

varieties growing wild. In Salò, a pretty and colourful town

that recalls the fascist epic, the food industry has known how

to take advantage of this production: it was here that the citron

was invented.

Changing bank, the lake is transformed into a sort of Nordic

fjord: leaving behind the towns of Garda and Torri del Benàco

and continuing on the eastern shore, you start to climb up Monte Baldo, where the olive trees give way to alpine vegetation.

The so-called “Botanical Garden of Europe”, reached by

cable car from Malcesine and which offers breathtaking views

of the lake, combines the typical products of the forest and

undergrowth (such as chestnuts and mushrooms) with high

level production: goat cheese, honey, herbs and medicinal

plants used to produce the typical teas.

Returning to the lake, as you would expect, it is the fi sh that

dominates the culinary tradition, with the return of the old

traditional fl avours.

The lake becomes a sea, Sirmione dominates with its

charm, full of history and poetry, with the suggestion of the

archaeological remains of the Grotte di Catullo, with the

pride of the castle, with the spas that have made its fortune

since the end of the nineteenth century. Beyond Desenzano del Garda, the hills towards Lonato del Garda, Castiglione

delle Stiviere and Solferino resonate echoes of the battles of

the Risorgimento. From the vineyards in this area, three great

Garda white wines are also produced: San Martino, Lugana

and Bianco di Custoza.

Whichever area of Lake Garda you choose, the option open to

the tourist is complete because it will appeal to lovers of nature

as well as lovers of the sea and the hills.

Common denominator: the good food, the taste of tradition

and the truly unique oasis of products that we would never

imagine to fi nd in this part of Italy, but which represent the

excellence of the three regions bordering this stretch of water

which is there to be discovered.

Delights and beauty

by the lake

Manca dida manca dida

Opposite page: view of Lake Garda with Monte Baldo in the background.

Above from left to right: vineyards near Pastrengo;

the Telegrafo Refuge on Monte Baldo; the Scaligera castle in Sirmione.

Below: a pier overlooking the lake.

18

«

Riva The pearl of Garda Trentino

was built to guard the port and the square, a former hub of

commerce and trade. Since 2002, after the restoration, it has

been possible to climb the 165 steps leading to its summit, to

enjoy the geometry of the square and the pier that become lost

in the blue of the lake. Traces of antiquity can also be seen in

the Palazzo Pretorio, in which Roman, medieval and modern

stones are located making it possible to trace the history of the

village and the lake.

In the shadow of baroque churches and Mediterranean

vegetation, intellectuals such as Friedrich Nietzsche, Franz

Kafka and the brothers Thomas and Heinrich Mann took

inspiration for their works that have marked the history of

philosophy and European literature: on the other hand, Lake

Garda was a must for the young people of Central Europe who

undertook the Grand Tour!

The pearl of Garda Trentino: Riva del Garda, with its

Mediterranean climate, great beaches and beautiful landscape,

is the resort par excellence. Here sport is the main reason for

the holiday: sailing and windsurfi ng above all, thanks to the

warm winds that blow constantly, but also walking, cycling

and mountain biking. Lemons, olives and palm trees colour

the landscape at the foot of the Brenta Dolomites.

Riva del Garda is also synonymous with art and culture, and a

symbol of the history of the town is the Fortress, fi rst mentioned

in 1124 and which has grown over the centuries: in the sixteenth

century it was a bishop’s residence and in the nineteenth century

became the Austro-Hungarian barracks, almost completely

losing its medieval and Renaissance features.

From the tower, returned to its original state by recent

restorations, you can enjoy a beautiful view of the lake. The

building now houses the Civic Museum, with stele statues

from the Copper Age found in the nearby Arco, the remains of

the lake-dwelling Ledro culture and the archaeological fi nds

of all the upper Garda. Meanwhile, in the Art Gallery you

can admire important works such as paintings by Hayez and

sculptures by Vincenzo Vela.

In the historic centre the Apponale Tower also deserves

attention, the old site of the market and the control centre of

the lake. From a height of 34 m it dominates the Piazza III

Novembre and dates back to the thirteenth century, when it

The culinary tradition of Lake Garda is inspired by the cuisi-

ne of the three regions that mark the boundaries: Lombardia,

Trentino-South Tyrol and Veneto. The typical summer dish

is from Veneto itself: the bigoi co le aole, i.e. spaghetti cold-

drawn through a press with the pickled bleak fi sh. A simple

dish, fl avoured with a strong taste of the minnows from the

lake preserved in salt, which are fried in oil to create a tasty

and very traditional fi sh sauce. Naturally the bigoli pasta is

boiled in water with a pinch of salt! Other local varities in-

clude bigoli al ragù di pesce (fi sh sauce), bigoli con le sardèle

(sardines), bigoli alla gardesana. The substance does not

change, they are always a delight!

Province: Trentino

Altitude: 65 m asl

Inhabitants: 16,170

Tourist information:

Ingarda Trentino - Azienda per il Turismo

Largo Medaglie D’Oro Al Valor Militare, 5

Tel. +39 0464 554 444

www.gardatrentino.it

A dish ... on loan

This page: two views of Riva del Garda.

19

© G

ard

ala

nd

© G

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For a holiday...made for all the family

Terminator 5 in 5D, U-571 Submarine, the house of horrors and

the scream-filled descent from the Hollywood Action Tower.

If you prefer water parks, here you’ll be spoiled for choice. The

largest is Caneva Aquapark, structured in the same way as

Movieland (Family, Adventure, Action sections).

Nestled in the green hills of Verona, in a natural area of 64,000

square metres, the sports centre and water park Picoverde di

Custoza offers tranquillity for adults and an area with water

slides for children.

Founded in 1978, the Parco Acquatico Cavour in Valeggio sul

Mincio offers Water Lagoon, the beach Mare, the wellness route,

the event ship Camillo Show, the Paradise Island completely

carved into the rock with slides and pools on different levels,

the area Magic Sand devoted to sand castles and Iceberg, where

you can slide in the Ice Age.

There are, finally, some opportunities for those who want

to venture between vines, Canadian bridges and air routes:

tourists can enjoy the new Parco Avventura in San Zeno di

Montagna, the Parco Natura Viva in Bussolengo (zoo and

safari) and the wonderful Parco Giardino Sigurtà in Valeggio

sul Mincio, one of the most extraordinary in the world for the

blooms of the tulips, roses and water lilies, including hedge

mazes and endless grassy plains to cross on foot or by bicycle.

Something for the whole family!

Descents at high speed, breathtaking drops, scenes from

movies, amazing gardens: Lake Garda and its surroundings

offer the opportunity to experience unique emotions with a

wide range of theme parks.

The most famous is Gardaland located in Castelnuovo del

Garda, with its 600,000 square metres of extension, full of

attractions for all ages, shows and themed villages divided

into the Adrenaline, Fantasy and Adventure sections. The first

category includes the famous Blue Tornado and Space Vertigo,

thrilling experiences of speed and changes in height: they

are two of the busiest rides. In the Fantasy category, the fairy

tales are unforgettable: Peter Pan, Kaffeetassen and l’Albero di Prezzemolo are just three of the many attractions of this type.

Those who love adventure, however, can not miss the classic

Ramses: il Risveglio, the “refreshing” Jungle Rapids or I Corsari.Within the entertainment complex Canevaworld, in Lazise

sul Garda, there is instead Movieland, a completely “cinema”

themed park! Also here the attractions

follow three different lines: Family,

for kids, Adventure, for the whole

family, and Action, for those who

want to experience great emotions

remembering more frightening films.

If the kids have fun travelling on little

cars around the circuit of the legendary

Route 66, the older ones can enter Magma 2 in trucks, to become protagonists of

Police Academy, dive into the London of

1907 with The Illusionist, or get closer

to the missions of Zorro and Rambo.

Stuntmen and special effects are

guaranteed! Finally, the most fearless

are reserved the emotions of Tomb Rider,

This page, clockwise from left: riding mountain bikes on Monte Brione,

near Riva del Garda, and two views of the Gardaland amusement park.

20

LombardiaAs well as being the economic heartland of Italy, Lombardy has been a destination for high quality tourism since the seventeenth century. The

region extends from the Alps to the wine-producing hills, from the large lakes to its rivers and canals, to the agricultural plain and the urban area of Milan: this is Lombardy, with its varied landscape and many different historical, artistic and productive traditions. The region has much to offer for different types of tourist, people travelling for work and business reasons or for people who are passionate nature-lovers or wish to follow the traces of literary fi gures. There are also opportunities to swim in the lakes as well as a wide range of activities in the fi elds of culture, fashion, art and design, not to mention the trade shows and other important events. Visitors also have the chance to explore the rural traditions of the plain of Lombardy. LOMBARDY

A region with a thousand

21

Observing the region from south to north, the mixture of dif-

ferent types of landscape emerges very clearly. The starting

point is the Oltrepò area at the southernmost tip of the region;

as its name suggests, Oltrepò lies to the south of Italy’s most

important river which, for most of its course, marks the bound-

ary between Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna. Oltrepò, which

has links with Pavia to the west and Mantua to the east, is as-

sociated with the tradition of vine cultivation and wine-mak-

ing in the hills, offering a fascinating experience to tourists

who are interested in food and wine, especially if they enjoy

traveling by bicycle or motorbike: the so-called “vineyard trail”

in the Pavia area, which mainly passes through the Versa and

Scuropasso valleys, is ideal for admiring the long and splendid

rows of vines which form perfect geometrical patterns on the

hill slopes.

The trail passes through many small towns and villages, stud-

ded with wineries, holiday farmhouses and restaurants where

visitors can relax and enjoy local food and wine traditions to

the full. You only need to go slightly further north to reach the

old capital of the Lombard kingdom: the city with the famous

roofed bridge, Pavia, which the Romans used to call Ticinum

(the name refers to its location where the Ticino flows into the

river Po). Pavia is not the only Lombard city that can boast a

thousand year history: Cremona was the scene of many im-

portant events in medieval times and has some beautiful and

striking monuments, such as the city hall known as “il Torrazzo”

and the architectural complex of the Cathedral and the Baptis-

tery; Mantua, with its splendid palaces (Palazzo Ducale and

Palazzo Te), can take tourists on a fascinating journey straight

into the age of the splendour, art and pomp of the Gonzagas;

Brescia has an extraordinary archaeological site called San-

ta Giulia which has become an extremely popular destination

and is the subject of a prestigious museum display; Bergamo,

the city split in two, is still to this day accompanied by the hun-

dred tolls of the bell in the tower in Piazza Vecchia in Bergamo

Alta; the bell tolls each day at 10.00 pm marked the closure of

the city gates.

The list of places of interest, both large and small, is almost

endless; every town and city in Lombardy has an ancient his-

tory which is borne out by the importance and productivity

of the region. Between the fifth and sixth century BC, a city

was founded in the heart of the plain of Lombardy; its Latin

name was Mediolanum, and, under its modern name, Milan,

the economic capital of Italy. Further to the north, the land-

scape is totally different: the cultivated areas of the plain lead

to the hill country which heralds the Alps and delights visitors

with its stunning lakes. From Lake Maggiore, you come to

the delightful lakes of Varesotto, before immerging yourself

in the pages of history of Lake Como. Visitors to Lake Iseo

will be astonished at the sight of the largest lake island, Mon-

tisola, and will be equally stunned by Lake Garda, an area

with a Mediterranean climate wedged between the mountains.

The varied landscapes of Lombardy end with the Alpine peaks,

the destination of winter sports throughout the year, with the

famous towns of Livigno, Bormio and Santa Caterina Val-furva, fashionable resorts surrounded by large nature reserves

and valleys, such as Valtellina and Val Camonica, which bear

the archaeological traces left by their ancient inhabitants.

From the plains to the

mountains: places of artistic,

natural and historical interest

Opposite page: a view of Bergamo. Above, from left to right: the Po Valley in the province of Brescia; Piazza Duomo in Cremona; mountain cycling around Livigno.

A thousand places, a thousand tastesThe landscape is incredibly varied and the many different culi-

nary traditions reflect these differences: the quintessential sym-

bol of Lombardy is the golden risotto which takes its name from

the rice-growing plain that stretches from Milan to the areas of

Lomellina, the area around Pavia and towards Novara and Ver-

celli. Visitors can travel up into the

valleys to discover a series of tradi-

tional dishes that are influenced by

mountain traditions, from special

pasta called pizzoccheri to the fa-

mous polenta. There is also a chance

to taste the specialities of the lakes

where dishes are based on fresh-

water fish and olives and “Mediterranean” olive oil. The food is

accompanied by excellent wines of Lombardy (the best wines are

made by the wineries of Oltrepò Pavese and Franciacorta).

22

«

Milan, a metropolis with a thousand-year old history

Province: Milan

Altitude: 122 m asl

Inhabitants: 1 348 769

Tourist information: IAT

Piazza Castello, 1 corner Via Beltrami

Tel +39 02 7740 4343

Central railway station Departure area -

platforms 13/14 - Tel +39 02 7740 4318/4319

www.milano.turismo.it

passing by the Imperial Palace of Maximilian, the necropolises in the

courtyards of the Catholic University, the Baths, the streets and the

numerous ruins that emerged during the excavations to build the

underground railway lines. It is also worth visiting the medieval and

renaissance city of Milan, which begins from the Romanesque basil-

ica par excellence, the basilica of St. Ambrose, with its gabled façade

and the colonnaded courtyard, and ends up with the Sforza Castle,

which now includes some of the city’s museums. Moreover, visitors

can discover the technological side of Milan whose origins can be

traced back to the fi fteenth century plan of the Canals (Navigli) de-

signed by Leonardo da Vinci when he was in the court of Ludwig the

Moor, which now aspires to events and creations with increasingly

“smart” technology (thanks partly to the planned event EXPO 2015).

The Navigli (the name used for the canals of Milan) are now un-

dergoing major redevelopment for the purposes of tourism, as well

as becoming the location for trendy nightlife. Visitors can continue

following the trail of Leonardo by seeing the Last Supper (Cenacolo),

one of the key symbols of Italian art in the world, the Ambrosian

Library where the Atlantic Code is kept, and the National Museum of Science and Technology with the reconstructions of machines

designed by Leonardo. The exploration of Milan continues century

by century, topic by topic, and character by character, from the site

of the siege of the bakery described by Alessandro Manzoni in the

Promessi sposi - The Betrothed (it is also possible to visit Manzoni’s

house with the adjoining museum) to the portraits by Hayez on dis-

play in the Pinacoteca di Brera (art gallery), from the Monumental

Cemetery to the modern setting of contemporary sculpture in Piaz-

zale Cadorna. There is also the Nuovo Polo Fieristico (Trade show

complex) in Milan (built in Rho in the north-western outskirts of the

city), the shopping streets (the so-called “Quadrilatero della moda”

or “four-sided shopping district”), the fashion shows, the art exhibi-

tions, and the streets associated with nightlife. This is Milan.

It has been defi ned as “Milan to drink up” and the “capital of fashion

and design”. However, the city was also the capital of the Roman

empire, as well as host to the most important political and religious

powers, until it eventually became the fi nancial centre of Italy. Mi-

lan’s importance (it is the second largest Italian city after Rome) is

symbolised by the statue of the “Madonnina”, on the highest spire

of the Duomo, the city’s cathedral. This inspired Milan’s unoffi cial

anthem Oh mia bela Madunina, the folk song that has given world-

wide fame to the city’s core values, its frenetic activity and careful

solidarity: “Milàn l’è ’n gran Milàn” (Milan is a great Milan). Besides

the Duomo, the city’s symbols include the Biscione, the symbol of the

Visconti family who ruled the city and the surrounding region for

many centuries during the Middle Ages: a dragon in the shape of a

snake with a young boy in its mouth, which gave rise to many leg-

ends and stories about the origin and the events of the city in ancient

times. Visitors can choose different ways of visiting Milan. There is

the archaeological approach to the city which begins from beneath

Piazza Duomo and eventually reaches the Columns of San Lorenzo,

Above: the Needle and Thread sculpture in Piazza Cadorna. Below: Piazza Duomo.

23

known as “la Rotonda” due to the elliptical shape of the central

room which protrudes from the rest of the building. At the end

of the walk, you encounter the sight of the most illustrious of

all the neoclassical villas, Villa Olmo, built by Marchese Odes-

calchi in neoclassical style and now the property of the council,

which organises prestigious conferences and exhibitions.

Apart from the worldly pleasures of the past and present, the

lush coastline has an aura of history, such as the small town

of Brenno or the small island of Comacina, which in medieval

times housed the castle which was allied with Milan during the

long war against Como. Olives grow plentifully on the island,

so that the bay is known as “Zoca de l’oli” (“valley of olive oil”).

The Sacro Monte di Ossuccio – a religious complex and UN-

ESCO World Heritage Site together with other Sacri Monti in

Lombardy and Piedmont - overlooks this side of the lake. The

complex contains 230 statues made of terracotta and stucco

arranged in 15 chapels devoted to the mysteries of the Rosary

which lead to the Shrine of Our Lady of Succour (Santuario

della Beata Vergine del Soccorso).

The unusual shape of Lake Como has always stimulated the

imagination of the local inhabitants, to the extent that it has

been described as “a man with one leg in Lecco and another in

Como, his nose in Domaso and his backside in Bellagio”. The

wonderful natural environment is unspoilt by human interven-

tion and provides the perfect place for a relaxing holiday. There

are many opportunities to take part in a wide range of activi-

ties, from water sports (sailing, scuba diving, windsurfing and

water skiing) to mountain sports (trekking, free climbing), as

well as many outdoor and indoor sports that exploit the morn-

ing wind from the north (known as “il

Tivano”) and the afternoon wind from

the south (known as “la Breva”). Most

places are well-equipped from this

point of view and the sporting ethos

is extremely important in the area, as

can be seen from the numerous facil-

ities and a longstanding tradition of

athletes who have established a world-

wide reputation.

Made famous by celebrities (from the worlds of cinema and

politics) who in recent decades have chosen it as the ideal

place for their holiday homes, Lake Como boasts a much old-

er tradition of hospitality for the “stars”: it is necessary to go

back in time to find illustrious visitors to the area; they in-

cluded the scions of the leading aristocratic families of Europe

and artists, from painters and poets to musicians (Stendhal,

Byron and Liszt just to mention a few) who came for the cus-

tomary “Journey to Italy”. These visitors stopped off at Lake

Como during the Grand Tour, the journey undertaken by the

young nobles of continental Europe towards the south where,

immersed in the sunshine and the aura of history, they could

get inspiration and enjoy the beneficial effects of the Italian

climate. It is hardly surprising to find the coastline of this lake,

with its curious upturned Y-shape, dotted with large, sumptu-

ous villas with a romantic appearance: the monumental Villa d’Este, Villa Erba and Villa Pizzo in Cernobbio, the elegant

Villa Serbelloni and Villa Melzi in Bellagio. In Lenno, be-

side the so-called “Bay of Venus”, stands Villa Balbianello, one

of the many buildings that is part of FAI (Italian National

Trust Fund) where scenes from the films Piccolo Mondo Antico

and Casino Royale were shot.

In Tremezzo, one of the classic sites of interest is Villa Carlotta with its splendid garden and the museum that contains works

by Canova and Hayez.

The city of Como offers a two hour walk along the lakeshore

which is overlooked by numerous neoclassical residences built

between the eighteenth and nineteenth centry, including Vil-la Saporiti, now the premises of the provincial government,

Lake Como,the pleasure residences

Above: Villa d’Este in Cernobbio.

Left: a view of Bellagio.

24

VenetoThe most beautiful mountain peaks in

the world, the most extensive uplands

of Italy, fascinating itineraries

through fortifi ed medieval villages

and vineyards. But there are also great art cities

and the medieval or renaissance atmospheres

of local festivals, art treasures and prestigious

theatre events. And what about its waterways,

with river tourism that goes from one Palladian

villa to another, Lake Garda that looks onto this

region and the Po delta with its unique natural

environment waiting to be explored by bicycle,

as well as the sea coast and beaches offering all

the fun and charm typical of the lagoon towns. In

brief, this is Veneto: now discover it for yourself!

A kaleidoscope of emotions

VENETO

25

Called the Upland “of the Seven Communes”, but also known

as the upland of Asiago after the name of its main town: this is

the most extensive upland in Italy and occupies the Vicenza Alps,

marking the border with the region of Trentino. In ancient times,

a large part of this territory used to be subdivided into seven di-

stricts organized as an independent federation (the most ancient

social organization in the world comparable to a modern federal

state) called the Spettabile Reggenza dei Sette Comuni (the Ho-

nourable Regency of the Seven Communes) which, up until the

advent of Napoleon, gravitated around the influence of Venice.

Today, the Communes are now eight and come under the provin-

cial government of Vicenza.

History enthusiasts will find in Veneto a great open air museum of First World War sites: in fact, an important trekking excursion

has been organized with the support of a number of historical as-

sociations grouped under the “1915/18 Open Air Museums - First

World War on Monte Grappa” Association, whose headquarters is

in Romano d’Ezzelino. Indeed, in recent years, numerous objects

dating back to the First World War have been recovered, parti-

cularly in Valle Santa Felicita where the excursion begins, in Col

Campeggia and in Col Andreon. The natural point of arrival of

this long challenging walk is the Military Shrine of Cima Grappa,

where the remains of over 10,000 war victims are buried.

Travelling south, the landscape changes radically when you start

to penetrate the six hectares of the San Donà di Piave fluvial park, a natural oasis on the left bank of the river Piave whose

landscape reflects the spontaneous growth of shrubs and clusters

of riverside trees which confer an uncontaminated and natural

aspect to the area. About 40 years ago, this natural complex was

originally covered with the residual stubs of poplars used for

industrial purposes and was subsequently replanted with more

wood producing poplars, a surrounding border of black locust

trees and a wood of white poplar, black poplar, plane trees and

white willow, thanks to a natural reforestation process. Equipped

with river moorings and boat towing facilities (from San Donà it

is possible to navigate as far as the mouth of the river Piave), the

Park offers rough paths and playing fields, as well as leisure and

picnic areas. For those interested in the history of this land, the

excursion can take in a visit to the Regional Land Reclamation

Museum “Ca’ Vendramin” which describes the transformation of

this territory from ancient times to the present day. Finally, with

its many ramifications and lagoons, the Po Delta makes a distin-

ctive mark on the vast territory of the Province of Rovigo which

looks out onto the Adriatic sea. This area is one of the vastest wet-

lands in Europe, 120 sq km of which are protected by the Po Delta

Regional Park of Veneto. At just a short distance away, for those

seeking an original and intense experience, the Adria racing cir-

cuit with its Adria International Raceway is within easy reach.

Any description of Veneto must necessarily include its art cities:

the mere mention of Verona, Padua, Vicenza, Treviso, Rovigo and

Belluno will show how art and history may constitute an intere-

sting leitmotiv for exploring this region, from its uplands to the

lagoon, casting a fascinated glance at its gigantic mountains as

you travel through the hills. Verona, the city of love and theatre:

the Arena, together with Juliet’s house, attracts millions of visitors

every year. Likewise Padua, with its numerous visitors, where the

Basilica of Saint Anthony is the destination of a constant and fre-

quent stream of pilgrims coming from all over Italy and abroad.

The other towns in the region are strikingly elegant and hospi-

table, thanks to centuries of transformation and an ever growing

offering of tourist hospitality services.

From the Uplands to the

Lagoon: corners of Veneto

waiting to be discovered

In the area of Asiago during the First World War, the eighte-

en-year-old future Nobel prizewinner for literature, Ernest

Hemingway, worked as an ambulance driver: he was enrol-

led as a volunteer by the US Red Cross, and was appointed

to the IV Section of the US International Red Cross with the

Lanificio Cazzola in Schio. Wounded in battle, Hemingway

was decorated with the silver Medal of Military Valor and

the American War Merit Cross for having rescued other

wounded soldiers, after being hit himself. His novel Farewell

to Arms was inspired by his experience in Veneto and his

hospital recovery in Milan.

A Nobel Prizewinner

on the Upland

Opposite page: the Lake of Auronzo. Top of page from left to right: Asiago; a trench on the Dolomites; Chioggia.

26

Walled cities and cities on water

To admire the best preserved city walls of Italy, you have to go to

Castelfranco Veneto. It is one of the so-called “walled cities”,

those medieval towns that are still steeped in the atmosphere

of a glorious past. When you stroll through its narrow streets at

dusk, the illuminated castle is a fairytale presence, contributing

to augment the mythical aura surrounding this town, which also

derives from its having been the birthplace of the enigmatic and

extraordinary artist, Giorgione, in the fi fteenth century.

Pieve di Cadore, on the other hand, situated at the farthest

point north of the region, is the most important town of the

entire Cadore and the birthplace of the painter Tiziano Vecellio.

The Cadore area, as well as being the most direct route towards

the Dolomite peaks, is known worldwide for its eyewear pro-

duction and in Pieve itself stands the Eyewear Museum, where

splendid collections are showcased to narrate the history of this

invaluable aid from the Middle Ages to the present day. Getting

back to the walled cities, Cittadella also preserves its city walls

intact, whose irregular elliptical shape is broken by as many as

36 towers! Of these, the Tower of Malta (today the premises of

an archaeological museum) is even mentioned by Dante in the

Divine Comedy.

From art and literature, let’s take a look at history: in the fa-

scinating landscape of the Euganei Hills, Este was the main

settlement of the ancient inhabitants of Veneto in the Iron Age

but still preserves visible fortifi ed traces of domination, fi rst by

the Este family and later by the Carraresi. Then, the place where

Carlo Goldini, the famous playwright, made his stage debut is

Feltre, a town perched on a hill, which hosts the old “Teatro

de la Sena”. During the fi rst week of August, the little town

provides the backdrop for an enthralling palio which enacts its

spontaneous submission to the Republic of Venice. Leaning on

the piedmont fl at that extends towards the Brenta river, stands

the town of Marostica with its city walls linking the upper and

lower castles, and forming a panoramic walk known as Sentiero

dei Carmini (the Carmini footpath). The highest expression of

tradition in this town is the famous Game of Chess played with

living personages, the enactment of a medieval event which

takes place every two years on the second Friday, Saturday

On this page, from the top: Feltre; Burano. Opposite page, from the top: theatre performance at the Arena in Verona; the Castle of Soave; Villa Almerico Capra in Vicenza.

27

and Sunday of September, inspired by the legend of two noble

warriors who, in the mid-15th century, both fell in love with a

beautiful chatelaine and challenged each other to a game of

chess, since duelling was forbidden. Finally, Soave, enclosed

by walls erected by the Scaligeri, is famous for its white wine

made from the garganega grapes cultivated on the surrounding

hills, which is celebrated in May during the “Medieval Festival

of Soave white wine”.

And of course, there is no shortage in Veneto of cities on wa-

ter: Venice the “Serenissima”, is just one of them! Chioggia is

“the other Venice”, which experiences the same phenomenon

of high tide and stands on a sort of island intersected by nar-

row streets, squares and canals, the most important of which

is the Canal Vena.

In Bassano del Grappa, the Bridge of the Alpini is a famous

landmark, and the subject of a famous alpine song; this all-

wooden structure was designed by Palladio so that it would be

flexible enough to withstand the river Brenta in flood, and was

rebuilt after the Second World War.

28

Venice, the eternally splendid “Serenissima”

Venice is mirrored in the Lagoon water and its refl ection enrap-

tures visitors, for the beauty of its streets and its canal bridges,

for the colours that dialogue between sky and water, for the

crowds that throng to monuments and artworks of immense

importance, for the picturesque impact of gondolas and gon-

doliers. St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco), the throbbing

heart of this city, takes its name from the famous Basilica of St. Mark, built in an oriental style with its traditional gilded

mosaics and surmounted by fi ve Byzantine cupolas. The vast

square opens up towards the lagoon on one side and is delimi-

ted on its other sides by the high bell tower and the fi ne histo-

rical buildings of the Old and New Procuratie and the Doge’s

Palace (Palazzo Ducale).

At just a short distance away, stands the elegant and not-to-

be-missed Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri), which is a

compulsory stop on the romantic gondola rides which always

go up the Grand Canal and through the entire city. The main

waterway is crossed by the Rialto Bridge (Ponte di Rialto), the symbol of this city, characterized by colourful artisanal

workshops and one of the busiest points in town with the

constant coming and going of tourists. Visitors have to expe-

rience Venice on foot, by getting lost in its intricate maze of

narrow streets, in the ups and downs of bridges, to discover

the Baroque treasures of Santa Maria della Salute and the

Academy Galleries which house the masterpieces of 14th

and 18th century Venetian artists, and the School of St. Roc-

co with its extraordinary collection of works by Tintoretto.

But Venice also stands for modern, contemporary and avant-

garde art, as testifi ed by the events put on in Palazzo Grassi

and at the Venice Biennial.

Summer in the city offers plenty of opportunities: from visiting

art collections to climbing the bell tower to take in the breathta-

king view of the intricate weave of narrow streets and canals in

the historic town centre. From the Sansovino loggia, just under

the top of the bell tower with its total height of 98.6 metres,

which may be reached in a few seconds by elevator, it is pos-

sible to get a close up view of the Marangona (the largest bell

that announced the start and end of the working day in the do-

ckyard), the Nona (which tolls at midday), the Trottiera (the bell

that used to call the nobles to council meetings) the Pregadì

(that announced Senate meetings) and the Renghiera (whose

sole purpose was to announce capital executions).

29

««Province: Venice

Altitude: 2,54 m asl

Inhabitants: 269.743

Tourist information:

Tourist Board Palazzetto Carmagnani - San Marco, 2637

Tel. +39 041 5298711 - www.turismovenezia.it

It is possible to catch the ferryboat and take in the three marvel-

lous islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello, to admire the

numerous blown glass workshops (on the first), the brightly co-

loured houses with their displays of white lace (on the second),

and the extraordinary Romanic complex of Santa Maria Assunta

and Santa Fosca (on the third). Then, if you happen to be in town

on the third Sunday of July, you will be lucky enough to see the

Feast of the Redeemer, which combines religion with folklore,

thanks to a firework display that attracts thousands of visitors

on Saturday night: in the incomparable setting of St. Mark’s

Basin, the play of light and reflections trace a kaleidoscope of

colours standing out against the spires, cupolas and steeples of

the city. According to tradition, at sunset, boats decorated with

greenery, coloured balloons and fairy lights, start to gather in the

Basin of St. Marks and the Canal of the Giudecca, dominated by

a Palladian Church built in 1577, to thank the Redeemer for the

end of the plague.

Cinema enthusiasts cannot possibly miss the Internatio-nal Cinema Festival at the start of September, with its film

projections, a great contest, tributes to the outstanding names

of cinema history and, why not, the chance to glimpse some

VIPs on the red carpet; all of which is topped by the possibi-

lity to enjoy the fashionable city beach, the Lido, whose first

bathing establishment, set among natural sand dunes, dates

back to 1857.

Besides, on the first Sunday in September, how could you miss

the Historical Regatta, in which the century-old “Venetian

rowing” technique is put to the test in a series of four compe-

titions (subdivided by age group and type of boat); the most

renowned and exciting of these is the regatta of gondola cham-

pions who dart down the Grand Canal towards the finishing line

in front of the famous “machine”, a spectacular floating platform

positioned in front of the Ca’ Foscari palace. The regatta is even

more spectacular today with a historical procession that prece-

des the races: dozens and dozens of typical 16th century multi-

coloured boats take part in a parade with their gondoliers dres-

sed in period costumes, transporting the Doge, his wife and the

most eminent Venetian magistrates, in a faithful reconstruction

of the glorious past of one of the most powerful and influential

Maritime Republics of the Mediterranean.

Opposite page: a view of St. Mark’s Square. On this page, clockwise: the Bridge of Sighs; gondolas going along the Riva degli Schiavoni; the Rialto Bridge.

30

In the name of relaxation and fun

They call it the “gold coast”, for the colour of its endless bea-

ches and the tourist industry that has grown up around it in

the course of the centuries. In fact, millions of tourists arrive

every year from all over Europe to crowd the bathing establi-

shments of Veneto: families with children seeking peace and

quiet and effi cient services, young people and teenagers who

want to live their holiday to the full, all around the clock, sports

enthusiasts and nature lovers, foodies looking to explore new

and traditional fl avours, elderly people who appreciate comfort

and relaxation. Linked together by rows of coloured beach um-

brellas, Rosolina Mare, Jesolo, Eraclea, Porto Santa Margherita,

Caorle and Bibione each have their own distinct identity and

tourist offering but share the same entrepreneurial spirit and

desire to pamper tourists. Rosolina Mare, for instance, which

is located on the edge of the Po Delta region, and very close

to the mouth of the Adige river, has maintained intact its wild

natural environment, similarly to the nearby Island of Alba-rella: midst kilometres of cluster pines and migratory birds,

these stretches of water, which extend as far as the eye can see,

help create the sort of regenerating holiday atmosphere that

is perfect for the more introspective tourist. Once past Veni-

This Venetian dish par excellence, Sarde in Saòr (sardines in

sweet and sour sauce), is an ancient recipe dating back to the

fi fteenth century.

A humble fi shermen’s dish which keeps well thanks to an extra

dose of fl avour: saòr in fact means “fl avour”, that sweet and

sour taste which enhances the humble sardine. You start by gut-

ting and cleaning the fi sh (without removing its tail), and then

go on to dust it in fl our and fry it in peanut oil. Cover the fi sh

with onions from Chioggia,

which you have previously

fried gently in oil and fl a-

voured with sugar, vinegar,

sultanas and pine nuts. Af-

ter a couple of days the saòr

sauce will be just right and

the dish may be served with

slices of white polenta.

Traditional tastes

31

ce with its Lido, you encounter the “Cavallino” coast, dotted

with lively campsites and animated by numerous festivals that

give a “folkloristic” touch to the holiday mood. Then comes Je-solo, characterized by lidos and pinewoods, water sports and

well-organized excursions to the “Serenissima”. Small boats,

fishing nets and cabins made from wood and bamboo cane

(the so-called “casoni”) distinguish the beaches of Caorle, which has successfully combined this traditional aspect with

the more contemporary trend of seaside fitness centres and

numerous discotheques for enjoying a holiday by the sea, day

and night. The Church of Our Lady of the Angel, standing on

the rocks near the sea, recalls the seagoing spirit of the people

of Caorle, who have made their living from fishing for centuri-

es. Those who wish to see this part of the coast from a boat will

find one of the largest ports of the Adriatic sea at Porto Santa Margherita (just a few kilometres from Caorle), with a mo-

oring capacity for 800 vessels, while Duna Verde, the “park”

of Caorle, provides plenty of amusement facilities. In the area

surrounding Caorle the presence of a great Acquapark, a com-

plex built in 1990 in a green oasis, is a real attraction for fami-

lies and young people.

Bibione has a similar landscape, it stands out for its dual tou-

rist offering of relaxation and fun; known as “Tuttaspiaggia”, it

is subdivided into Bibione Spiaggia, Lido del Sole and Bibione

Pineda, and is considered to be the most important seaside re-

sort on the coast of Veneto, located close to the Friuli-Venezia

Giulia border. In proximity to the lighthouse, the symbol of

this town, a very popular spa centre has been running since

1996, where mud bath treatments are dispensed.

At the opposite end of the coast, at Sottomarina di Chiog-gia, no visitor can miss the 10 kilometre walk along the beach

leading to the well-known Isolaverde. All in all, this coastline

offers about 90 kilometres of crystal clear water (a Blue Flag

area since 2010), with beach facilities and services of all kinds,

comprising a wide selection of centres for practising various

sports: windsurf, sailing, diving activities, beach volley, golf,

archery, cycling and horse riding excursions. Wherever you are

on this coast, your evenings will be animated by restaurants,

pizza parlours, pubs, discotheques, lounge bars, penny arca-

des and amusement parks. The ideal beaches for relaxing and

entertaining holidays at a stone’s throw from historical and ar-

tistic treasures of international importance, without forgetting

the delicious traditional cuisine offered by this region.

Opposite page, from the top: the beach of Eraclea Mare; a view of Jesolo and its coast.

Above: a jetty of Chioggia Sottomarina at dusk.

32

Friuli Venezia GiuliaA corner of Italy which in the course

of history has experienced troubled

events, but from each of those

diffi cult times has known how to

obtain lifeblood. Of this past, the territory bears

archaeological, historical, artistic, linguistic and

traditional traces. Friuli-Venezia Giulia, due to its

strategic location, was a place of obligatory passage

and economic and cultural exchange, on the most

wedged gulf in the Adriatic Sea, touched by the

Bora wind, which reaches speeds of more than

160 km/h, protected by the spectacular Dolomite

mountains, with an underground world all to be

discovered. And with cities of art which, over the

centuries, have often breathed “European” air.

At the edges of the territory, in the centre of history

FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA

33

The Celts, Romans and Lombards have passed through. And

then the Venetians and the Habsburgs. The signs of these pas-

sages are visible in the great works of art that still characterise

the large and small cities in the region, with a dense weave of

ages and history. Trieste, the capital, is a cosmopolitan city: it

is not difficult to find evidence from the past and present of the

different religions (Catholics, Orthodoxes, Jews, Evangelicals,

Waldenses). Gorizia is the “garden city”, Pordenone the “city

of porticoes”, while Udine has maintained the elegant appea-

rance of the venetian and liberty city. But it is the smaller cities

that hold some real surprises. Aquileia, for example, is consi-

dered a second Rome in terms of the quantity, quality and size

of the archaeological Roman and paleochristian remains that

are preserved and can be visited: in the basilica is the largest

paleochristian decorative cycle mosaic floor in the whole West!

And while we are on this subject, Spilimbergo is home to

the Friuli Mosaic School, known throughout the world for the

refinement of its production. The Lombard temple of Cividale

is amazing and truly unique, a jewel of eighth century AD art

with ancient frescoes, elaborate stucco decorations and diffe-

rent registers of high - reliefs that make it unique: justifiable

pomp, if you think that Cividale was home to the first Lombard

Duchy of Italy. Still in Cividale you can take a leap back seve-

ral centuries: not so far from the little temple, in fact, visitors

can admire a Celtic Hypogeum consisting of several connected

rooms, underground, cut into the rock, containing three my-

sterious stone masks that represent faces and the recesses in

which the urns of high ranking people were placed.

For other pleasant surprises you should go to Sesto al Reghena

where there is an air of the Middle Ages (the Abbey is a real jew-

el of medieval architecture) or Palmanova, a fortress city with

nine points, or Venzone, a fortified village dominated by the

castle but made famous due to the many mummies found in the

crypt of the former chapel of San Michele, in front of the Duo-

mo: today we can observe five, but originally there were almost

forty. The first discovery, in 1647, was that of the “Hunchback” mummy, named in this way not because of the obvious physi-

cal defect that seemed to characterise the body that was found,

but due to the gibbous shape caused by improper burial. The

phenomenon of mummification in Venzone is possibly thanks

to a fungus that grows in the tombs of the Duomo, the parasitic

mould Hipha Bombicina Pers which can dehydrate the body in a

year and make the skin pergameneous.

You enter into full Venetian spirit with the city of Codroipo,

where the very well known Villa Manin is located, the last resi-

dence of the doges of Venice, and Sacile, known as the “Garden

of the Serenissima” along the river Livenza.

The town of Muggia tells a different story, an ancient Istrian-

Venetian village, which maintains the characteristics and me-

mories of a strip of land and a peninsula (now mostly Croatian)

populated since ancient times by Istrians and Venetians. Muggia

is the only Istrian city, on Italian soil, predominantly Italian (San

Dorligo della Valle, a little further inland, is an Italian town but

mostly Slovenian): Italians in Istria generally speak, as well as

Italian (now protected as a language in Slovenia and Croatia

too), also two distinct indigenous languages of Romance ori-

gin: the Istroveneto and Istriot, the first considered a variety of

the Veneto-Friuli dialect, the second a local evolution of Vulgar

Latin with Venetian, Dalmatian and Slavic influences. It’s worth

a stop in Muggia, for its beauty, overlooking the Gulf of Trieste,

but also to pay homage to the value of citizenship in the partisan

struggle for freedom.

The fascination of a border land

Opposite page: the incredibly long coastline of Lignano Sabbiadoro. Above from

left to right: the ruins of Aquileia; detail of a fresco in the small Lombard church of

Cividale del Friuli; aerial view of Palmanova. Below: the Abbey of Sesto al Reghena.

34

««

Above: the interior of a café in Trieste. On the left: the castle of Miramare.

The Trieste of coffee, intellectuals and a thousand cultures

Province: Trieste

Altitude: 2 m asl

Inhabitants: 202.563

Tourist information: A.i.a.t. Trieste

Piazza Unità d’Italia 4/b

Tel. +39 040 3478312

www.turismofvg.it

in general. You can also enjoy a jota soup, with beans, potatoes

and sauerkraut, with clearly German roots.

To live as the people of Trieste do, one must explore the city by

way of the coffee shops. The fi rst were opened in the eigh-

teenth century imitating the fashionable shops in Venice, but

from the outset with unique characteristics, with traits of Vien-

na: the city, the emporium in the middle of Europe, could offer

a variety of beverages and spices from the north and south.

They soon formed the fi rst coffee houses frequented by Aus-

trian civil servants and offi cers, the bourgeois cafés and the

famous literary cafés. In the old piazza dei Negozianti, for ex-

ample, is the Caffè Tommaseo, founded in 1830 and now a

privileged meeting-place for artists: ice cream was introduced

here for the fi rst time! Created as a typical Austrian-Hungarian

establishment, decorated with mirrors and stucco, the Caffè Stella Polare was a meeting place for local and foreign intel-

lectuals. The Caffè degli Specchi, in Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia,

in the heart of the city, was established in 1839 and because

of its position immediately became a favourite place to follow

all the historical, political, economic and cultural events in the

city. After the Second World War it was requisitioned by the

Anglo-Americans Allies and from that moment the insignia of

the Royal Navy has been positioned inside. If from 1863 the

Caffè Tergesteo (in front of the Teatro Verdi) was attended

by businessmen from the nearby stock exchange, the Caffè San Marco, which opened in 1914, became a laboratory for

the preparation of false passports for the anti-Austrian patri-

ots who fl ed to Italy. Completely destroyed by the Austrians

during the First World War, it was later rebuilt in the twen-

ties to become a meeting place for many intellectuals in Tri-

este such as Umberto Saba and Italo Svevo. Inside, the typical

atmosphere of the Viennese café: the inlaid wooden bar, the

medallions on the walls, the marble tables with cast iron legs,

mirrors and frescoes. Finally, a mention for the most frequent

visitor to the Caffé Pasticceria Pirona: the writer James Joyce,

who designed his Ulisse here.

In short, between the Miramare Castle, built in the mid-ninete-

enth century by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg,

the Fountain of the Four Continents, the Arco di Riccardo and

the Cathedral of San Giusto, there will certainly be time for a

coffee that speaks of history.

There are many ways to visit Trieste, a city with one eye on the

Adriatic and the other on the harsh karstic promontory. You

can experience the city of the sea, with the piazza dell’Unità

which is among the prettiest and widest maritime squares in

the world, where the sea crosses the border of the city with

unique elegance and harmony.

You can also choose to discover Trieste following the archi-

tectural trail, to admire the simple and natural combination

of Baroque and neoclassical buildings with Art Nouveau and

eclectic constructions, in an exclusive co-existence with Ro-

man ruins and Habsburg style.

One of the most curious and satisfying options, however, is the

circuit of pubs, bars, cafés and shops: in the typical “osmizze”,

Vitovska is drunk (a typical Slovenian white wine, perfect with

fi sh and light hors d’oeuvres) and Terrano (dry red wine with

a low alcohol content that is produced in the Trieste area from

grapes grown in red soil, mentioned by Pliny and used by the

Romans), suitable to accompany cold meats, game and meat

35

Above: a picturesque view of Grotta Gigante.

A region to discover... underground!

ting to observe the eccentric shapes of the limestone forma-

tions, which seem to defy gravity. Even the Grotta delle Torri di Slivia is considered one of the wonders of the Trieste Karst

and has two entrances: an artificial entrance, with about 200

steps that lead 60 metres underground, and a natural entran-

ce, a 30-metre well where you can only descend with caving

equipment.

Inside, you can not miss the famous stalagmite towers, a group

of eight concretions of various sizes, from which the grotto

takes its name. The flow of visitors is precisely regulated to

protect a large colony of bats living there, which go into hiber-

nation and reproduce in the grotto.

Finally the “national temple of cavers” the Grotta Verde di Pradis, so named for the emerald green colour that illumina-

tes the walls. After the descent of 207 steps we find the crea-

tion carved by the river Cosa. The Christmas mass is celebrated

every year in front of the bronze statue of the Virgin. Palaeon-

tological and archaeological traces of Prehistoric occupation of

the grotto can be seen in the museum.

Limestone rocks that are more than 120 million years old.

Originally the Karst was submerged in shallow sea water,

with warm temperatures and inhabited like a coral reef! Car-

bonate deposited over thousands of years and turned into

rock emerged as a result of strong tectonic movements and

from that moment the process of erosion began: weathering

carried out a slow modification of the landscape, forming ca-

ves, sinkholes and dolines and by infiltrating water to form

underground rivers.

All this can be explored. A few kilometres from Trieste, for ex-

ample, you can enter the largest tourist grotto in the world: the

Grotta Gigante, a huge cave that is almost 300 metres long

and with a 107-metre dome, into which the ancient network

of river tunnels flow and in which the temperature remains

constant between 10 and 12 degrees throughout the year. The

range of colours and shapes of stalactites and stalagmites is

truly amazing, so much so that some, due to their shape, have

been given names like “pulpito”, “palma” (7 meters high!) and

“colonna di Ruggero” (12 meters!).

A short distance from Cividale del Friuli is the Grotta di San Giovanni d’Antro, which takes its name from the cult who

settled there around the eighth century. The cave is much ear-

lier, such that in prehistoric times it would have offered shelter

to the local populations. It is accessed by an entrance fortified

with a stairs with more than a hundred steps.

Unique to the type of rock that you can see, the Grotta nuova di Villanova has galleries that run flat for 8 km and two paths,

one a simple tourist route, the other for speleology tourism,

which enters into the more hidden caves. It is always fascina-

There are three rules that must be followed for the production of raw San Daniele ham. First, the

thighs should be from pigs reared in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia-

Romagna, Tuscany, Lazio, Abruzzo, Marche and Umbria. Then, of course, the traditional process

must be respected: the meat should quickly reach San Daniele, on the hills of Friuli, because it is

absolutely forbidden to freeze it. Here it is only treated with sea salt. And the so-called “aging”

process can only start in San Daniele. In fact it is necessary to have the winds that descend from

the Carnic Alps and those from the Adriatic. The resinous scents mingle with salty ones in an

environment where temperature and humidity are regulated by the moraine lands and the wa-

ters of the river Tagliamento.

San Daniele: tradition of gastronomic excellence

36

Liguria A balcony over the Mediterranean

LIGURIA

The perfect balance between the rough, unspoilt

nature of the mountains and the luxuriant

gentleness of the sea, with sudden and surprising

changes in height between the summits and the

water level. This is Liguria, a region of holidays,

nature, sport and wellness, of simple and authentic

fl avours, but also of ancient civilizations and

contemporary culture. A concentration of wealth

that you can not fail to appreciate: from the music

of the great songwriters to the worldliness of

the most famous festival in Italy, passing by the

fl owers, from which the Riviera takes its name.

37

Perched on the hills, overlooking the sea, the picturesque vil-

lages in Liguria give colour to the entire coast and the hin-

terland with their romantic, old and traditional atmosphere.

Villages to explore, enjoy and experience by delving into the

past, included among the “Most beautiful villages in Italy” and

awarded with the orange flag by the Italian Touring Club.

In the hinterland to the west of Genoa, in the Stura Valley,

Campo Ligure is identified today by the narrow alleyways or

caruggi (some are just a few tens of centimetres wide) popu-

lated by goldsmith shops. Those same alleyways in the village

of Pigna are called chibi and have concentric rings giving the

town the typical shape of a pine cone, from which the town

takes its name. Unique shapes and lines are also found in the

“round” village of Varese Ligure whose elliptical layout re-

minds us of its defensive function. This time located at the foot

of the Apennines, at the confluence of the Gravegnola and

Chicciola streams with the river Vara, is Brugnato built around

the core of an ancient abbey of the late seventh century.

In the Nervia Valley, Apricale takes its name from the fact it

is exposed to the sun (in Latin apricus), perched on a hill in a

kind of cascade of stone houses. Equally spectacular, but half-

way between the sea and the hills, is Borgio Verezzi, with

wonderful views of the coast, among the perfumes of the Med-

iterranean vegetation. The double name, in this case, is due to

two historic centres with parallel stories that have experienced

the Saracen invasions, the bishops of Albenga and the Repub-

lic of Genoa. Here there are very striking glimpses, washba-

sins, doors between the caruggi and the creuze (alleyways and

lanes). The first document that mentions Dolceacqua dates

back to 1151; this small village was built from the castle at the

top of the rocky spur, spread along a stream, with an older part

called Terra and a more modern part called Borgo.

The Finale stone adorns the gates, forms the columns and en-

hances the narrow alleyways of these villages. Medieval walls

and semicircular towers overlooking the sea announce settle-

ments such as Finalborgo (one of the three centres that make

up the town of Finale Ligure) dominated by the baroque Ba-

silica di San Biagio, whose unfinished façade of rough stone

hides the richness of the interior decoration. Or like Cervo,

dominated by the castle and embellished by the Church “dei

Corallini” (the coral fishermen who contributed to its construc-

tion), and Zuccarello, with characteristic buildings (such as

the Romanesque Bridge), which, due to its strategic position,

was one of the key points used by Napoleonic troops.

These extraordinary villages adorn the Ligurian territory and

the entire region is dotted with significant and picturesque

towns, from the more worldly centres, popular with tourists

to those that are more “family friendly”. There are also many

interesting facts about these places, such as Laigueglia, popu-

lated as early as 1330 by Catalan coral fishermen, whose mark

remains in many Spanish-surnames and place names (such as

the church of Nostra Señora de la peña, Our Lady of the Rock).

The geography of the area of the Cinque Terre becomes sur-

prisingly more extreme, where the thousand-year old villages

boldly climb next to the coast overlooking the sea: Lerici, heart

of the Gulf of Poets (the works of Lord Byron and Mary Shelley

were written here), Levanto, bearing an elegant and aristo-

cratic appearance, Manarola, famous for the Via dell’Amore

(Way of Love), Portovenere, whose name indicates its beau-

ty, Monterosso, Riomaggiore and Vernazza, overlooking the

blue sea with pastel-coloured houses.

There really is something for everyone!

The Ligurian villages,

jewels between the mountains

and the sea

Ligurian olive oil is an integral part of the local culture. It

is said that the Benedictine monks spread the olive tree in

Liguria, with different effects in the production between East

and West. The extra virgin olive oil, which is always fruity,

is spicy in the East and sweet in the West. Seven varieties of

olive trees are grown whose olives are used to produce three

types of oil with protected designation of origin (PDO): “Rivi-

era dei Fiori”, “Riviera del Ponente Savonese” and “Riviera del

Levante”. A common element, in addition to the membership

of the same consortium, (Oli DOP Riviera Ligure), is the per-

centage of black olives over 90%.

The Ligurian oil and identityOpposite page: a view of Manarola, one of the Cinque Terre. Above: a market stall selling

the typical focaccia of Liguria in Camogli. Above right: an olive grove near La Spezia.

38

«

This page, clockwise:

an area of the dock in Genoa;

the Cathedral of St. Laurence;

the Bigo structure in the Old Port.

Genoa:elegant, superb, unique

Province: Genoa

Altitude: 19 m asl

Inhabitants: 606 978

Tourist information:

IAT Offi ce

via Garibaldi - tel. +39 010 5572903/751

www.genova-turismo.it

ple in the audience and more than a thousand outside, in front of

a big screen.

Moving toward Piazza San Lorenzo, you can not fail to admire

the Cathedral of the same name, whose majestic façade with

white and black stripes, three imposing access portals, once again

takes you back to the Middle Ages and Renaissance period that

saw Genoa become the capital and cornerstone of the traffi c of

goods from around the world.

A memory of that era of trade, departures, great voyages and dis-

coveries can be found in the streets of the historic centre, where a

few tiny shops survive that still sell herbs and spices from all over

the world.

And it is the common neighbourhoods, with their narrow, col-

ourful, labyrinthic streets that let you breathe the history of a port

city, with its active population, more material than philosophiz-

ing, more tied to goods than thought, but enriched by the char-

acteristics of the cultures from all over the world thanks to trade.

Genoa is inextricably linked to the name of Christopher Colum-

bus, its most famous citizen, both legendary and mysterious,

forced to turn to Spain to organise the trip that started the mod-

ern era.

Walking down the streets in the centre, you will discover a new

side of the city, with the baroque via Balbi overlooked by the im-

posing Palazzo Reale, with its more than 100 metres of façade

and home to the Art Gallery with works by Van Dyck and the

amazing Galleria degli Specchi (Hall of Mirrors).

At the end of via Balbi is the famous monument to Christopher

Columbus and the façade of the Principe railway station from

where via Andrea Doria starts leading to the Palazzo (or Vil-la) del Principe, the domain of the old port, dominated by the

117-metre Lanterna (Lighthouse of

Genoa), the symbol of the city, be-

hind which lies the via Pré district,

the infamous and degraded area that

has recently embarked on the road of

urban and social recovery.

An elegant but reserved city, proud but shy. Like its inhabitants.

Beautiful, when you discover the popular quarters in contrast

with the Renaissance palaces, churches and villas. Unique, situat-

ed on the gulf at the centre of the two Rivieras, dominated by one

of the largest tourist and commercial ports in the Mediterranean

and by the scientifi c and cultural centre in which the Aquarium

is the main draw for tourists. Genoa offers the historical and ar-

tistic heritage of a true city of art and comes alive every year with

events of great interest: the famous Regatta of the Ancient Mar-

itime Republics, the Salone della Nautica (Genoa International

Boat Show), the Eurofl ora.

The discovery of the city starts from Piazza Matteotti, with the

fun combination of courtyards, loggias and colonnades of the

Palazzo Ducale, with its eighteenth-century façade facing the

square. A visit to the Doge’s apartments allows you to dive into

the glorious period of the city and the recent recoveries made it

possible to reconstruct the luxury and wealth of the time. Right in

front of the Palazzo Ducale is the Teatro Carlo Felice: it was here

that the memorable concert by Fabrizio De André was held on

Christmas Eve in 1997, and also the emotional commemoration a

few days after his death in January 1999, with two thousand peo-

39

This page: in the magical world of the Aquarium, Genoa.

A magicalland of water

cies of cetaceans, settled here because of the wealth of fish on

which they feed. It is not hard to spot them, when participat-

ing in whale watching organised by institutions and consortia,

sailing from Genoa and Savona with the assistance of WWF

professionals and biologists, allowing you to enter the world

of these giant aquatic mammals with respect for their envi-

ronment. The different species range from the fin whale - that

measures an average of 25 metres in length and can weigh

more than 20 tons - to the common dolphin, sperm whales

and killer whales. The observations on the boat, which the

public may participate in, are also a chance to identify each

specimen with photos which are then entered into a Europe-

an database, which monitors their health and behaviour.

Diving enthusiasts must not forget to visit the Regional Nat-

ural Park of Portofino with a protected marine area, which

contains spectacular underwater ecosystems. The coastline

with rock hanging over the promontory in fact creates one

of the most interesting and unspoiled seabeds in the Medi-

terranean, with cliffs full of caves and coves, ideal for the life

of sponges, gorgonians and corals of various tints. However

the sandy seabeds on the sides of the promontory host the

so-called “prairies” of posidonia oceanica, a marine plant that

implements a continuous action of consolidation of the sea-

bed and serves as an indicator of the quality of the coastal

marine waters.

From the city to the open sea, everything in Liguria allows

you to immerse yourself into the blue and gain a unique

experience in contact with the inhabitants of the sea. Start

from Genoa, where the area of the old port is home to the

famous Aquarium, a place where learning becomes a fun and

addictive experience (a true “edutainment”). In addition to

the largest aquarium in Italy and the second largest in Eu-

rope, built by Renzo Piano for the Expo 1992, in which 70

ecosystems are represented in as many tanks, for adults and

children there are the “Città dei Bambini e dei Ragazzi” and

“Biosfera”, areas of play and discovery of science and technol-

ogy, the large panoramic lifts “Bigo” and “Galata”, the largest

and most innovative maritime museum in the Mediterrane-

an, with the reconstruction of a Genoese galley from the

seventeenth-century which is 33 metres long and a brig-antine schooner from the nineteenth century and with six thousand original objects. These visits allow a closer look

at how navigation has evolved over the centuries, how the

technologies have changed, and how man lived and is living

with the sea. But the star attractions are the sharks, dolphins,

penguins, seals, rays and even corals: they can be seen, in

some cases you can touch them, but we also try to understand

how they live and what you can do to respect them in their

natural habitat.

The waters of the Ligurian Sea also offer an opportunity for

innovative tourism. It is home to the only protected marine

area established in the international arena (in 1999): the

Cetacean Sanctuary, which covers about 87,000 square kilo-

metres in the waters of Italy, France and Monaco. In fact, this

is an area with a high concentration of twelve different spe-

40

Emilia RomagnaFo

to P

arita

ni

The region situated immediately

south of the Po river, where the

destiny of ancient Rome’s dominion

over the peninsula was decided:

it was 10 January 49 B.C. and Julius Cesar,

decided to cross the river Rubicon from Ravenna

and, on pronouncing the famous phrase Alea

iacta est, gave way to the Roman civil war.

The region that has produced the great names

of Italian light music, which boasts the most

famous riviera in Europe, prestigious Italian

automobile companies and the small or large-scale

agricultural and food industries that represent Italy

worldwide. This is Emilia-Romagna: whatever

it decides to produce, it makes an impression.

A land of passions and pleasure

EMILIA ROMAGNA

41

Foto

Par

itani

Food embodies our recollections of territory, history and tradition.

Nothing could be closer to the truth in Emilia-Romagna, where as

many as 19 “taste museums” have been created to safeguard its fine

food and wines: a heritage that comprises its exquisite gastronomic

specialities and the art of simple hospitality in which this region

has always excelled. A show of hospitality which, on the Riviera, is

young at heart, dynamic and extremely well organized, while fur-

ther inland or in town, takes the form of warm- heartedness, music,

a smiling welcome and an entrepreneurial spirit.

In the province of Parma, in the kitchens and cellars of Castello Fe-

lino, the Felino Salami Museum has its premises. Other symbols

of excellence belonging to this province are the Museum of Par-ma Ham in Langhirano and the Museum of Parmesan Cheese

in Soragna. In Montecchio Emilia, in the area of Reggio Emilia,

Lambrusco is celebrated in the Wine Museum, which provides

a detailed description of its history and vinification techniques,

thanks to the enthusiasm of a family that has been engaged in

its production for over a century. And, of course, the Modena area

could not possibly do without its Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Museum, located in Spilamberto, where the visitor’s tour starts

in a charming barrel-shaped room, and the Tigella Museum and Borlengo Workshop, occupying two different premises in

Samone di Guglia and Lame di Zocca. In the province of Ferrara,

looking out onto the water in Comacchio, it is possible to enter

into the unique world created by the Eel Museum, an ancient

building where visitors may observe fish processing techniques.

Still on the coast, but close to Ravenna, this time, the Salt Mu-seum of Cervia describes the work behind this precious white

substance extracted from the sea. Exquisite flavours that are worth

learning about and tasting, in order to fully enjoy this territory. But,

in Italian, sapori (flavours) rhymes with motori (motors). And in

Emilia Romagna motors are another expression of excellence. So

much so, that the term “Motor Valley” has been coined.

So don’t miss a visit to the Automobile Museum in San Martino

in Rio, which exhibits about forty cars, a dozen motorbikes and

sidecars, an historical library, a photographic archive and multi-

media supports. This is also the headquarters of the San Martino Racing stable: if the Museum preserves the cars, the Racing sta-

ble makes them move. From four to two-wheelers, to complete

the picture, it is worth paying a visit to the National Motorcy-cle Museum in Rimini: 250 motorcycle exhibits to represent 65

different brands, subdivided by theme and period. Of particular

interest is the Guzzi 500 which belonged to the painter, Ligabue.

On the grounds in front of the exhibition centre, a bring and buy

market for exchanging motorbike accessories has been held ever

since 1994, with sessions on the third Sunday of each month. As

in the case of food, there are plenty of museums for enthusiasts to

visit, as many as 14 in fact. Of these, the most famous is the Fer-ruccio Lamborghini Museum Centre, in Dosso (Ferrara), where

the futuristic structure housing the collections is situated right in

front of the production plants. You just have to cross over to the

other side of the Italian border to visit Maranello Rosso – the Ferrari Museum and the Red Abarth Museum, in Falciano, in

the Republic of San Marino. Finally, for all those who do not only

want to know, but also try out, drive and hear the roar of engines

firsthand, there is the Misano World Circuit, the Enzo and Dino

Ferrari International Racing track in Imola, the Riccardo Paletti

Racing track in the area of Parma and the Modena Racing track,

as well as the huge number of go kart circuits and the production

plants of some of the most famous brands, including Ducati and

Maserati. A real paradise for racing enthusiasts!

Land of flavours, land of motors

Opposite page: aquagym class in the Aquafan water park in Riccione.

Above from left to right: the emblem of Ferrari, the famous sports car manufacturer;

checking the maturation of Parmesan cheeses; descent on a rubber dinghy

at the Aquafan water park in Riccione; the beach of Viserba.

Flour, lard, salt and water: this is the piadina of Romagna,

the symbol of the Riviera. There are a number of variations on

the traditional theme, folded over and filled with cooked ham,

squacquerone cheese and rocket, or even chocolate cream. The

crescione, for instance, is a piada that is filled, folded over and

closed before being cooked: its name derives from its filling of

cress, which is now difficult to find but once grew abundant-

ly along ditches and canals. Another version called “tortel-

lo alla lastra” is simply a sheet of piadina pastry rolled out

finely and filled with potatoes that have been boiled, pureed

and seasoned with onion,

pecorino cheese, nutmeg,

bacon and salt, or greens

and ricotta cheese.

Piadina, the symbol of Romagna

«

Bologna Strolling midst towers and porticos

Province: Bologna

Altitude: 54 m asl

Inhabitants: 382 460

Tourist information bureau:

IAT Piazza Maggiore

Palazzo del Podestà – Piazza Maggiore 1/e

Tel. +39 051 239660 - www.bolognawelcome.com

Of the 100 towers – more or less - built in Bologna in and

around the XII century, only 24 still remain standing today. With

its almost completely porticoed historical town centre, the so-

called red city, whose name is mainly due to the red brick with

which it is built but also to its political leanings during the last

century, lends itself to about two hours’ of urban trekking. The

sites on the tourist track are numerous and curiously named,

such as the Torre degli Agresti, Torre dei Lapi, Torre dei Gal-luzzi. This tour makes an interesting and instructive experience

since it enables us to understand the function of towers from

the Middle Ages onwards: a family that could afford to build a

tower was able to demonstrate its political power, importance

and wealth. The higher and more visible the tower was, in fact,

the greater the power behind it. On reaching Piazza di Porta

Ravegnana, you come across the two symbols of medieval Bolo-

gna: the Two Towers, both of which lean over, standing at the

meeting point of the streets leading to the fi ve fortifi ed gate-

ways of the ancient city walls known as “torresotti”. The one

which leans over most (and is shorter, 48 m) is the Garisenda,

mentioned several times by Dante in the Divine Comedy, while

the other, the Torre degli Asinelli, is the highest leaning tow-

er in Italy (97.2 m) and, if you climb up the steps inside, you

can enjoy a wonderful view of the city, the surrounding hills

and St. Luke’s Church from the top. During the “tower tour” it

is advisable to stop off at Piazza del Nettuno, pass under the

Voltone del Podestà to “talk in the corners” and observe the

Torre dell’Arengo. Then go back to Piazza Maggiore to take

in the last tower, that of the Clock.

The other all-important landmark of Bologna is the Univer-

sity: in fact this was the site where the fi rst university of the

western world was founded, the Alma Mater Studiorum. In

spite of being fi rst mentioned in 1317, but already known in

the XI century for its legal studies, the studium of Bologna did

not have a permanent location until the mid XVI century, so

the professors of ancient times used to hold their lectures in

their own homes or in rooms rented from the Municipality.

The 42 km of porticos characterizing this city were actually

built to provide hospitality to the wealthy students, most of

whom were foreigners. The heart of Bologna’s University is

the palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, erected by Pious IV in 1561 to

unite all the schools of the Studium under one roof. Palazzo

Poggi, on the other hand, was built in the mid 16th century

and was chosen by Napoleon in 1802 as the new location of

the modern University of Bologna. Finally, Via Zamboni, is the

street most frequented by the city’s students and ever since

1756 it has been overlooked by the University library.

Above: the colonnades of Strada Maggiore.

Below: a picturesque night time view of Piazza Maggiore.

43

discotheques in Italy, from the Cocoricò to the Peter Pan and

the Baia Imperiale, and the entire area involved in the Rimini

night-life, the Marano, with its pubs, lounge bars and night-

clubs for dancing on the beach, the amusement parks Aqua-

fan, Oltremare and Fiabilandia, excursions inland towards the

nearby Republic of San Marino, the fortified villages of San Leo

and Sant’Arcangelo. The long list of resorts goes on to include

Cattolica, Bellaria Igea Marina, Gabicce, Cesenatico, Cervia and

Misano Adriatico. Milano Marittima, separated from Cervia

by a century-old pine forest, is a favourite resort of VIPs, sports

celebrities and socialites, since it offers the last word in fashion,

music and lifestyle trends. Its hotels are icons of modern de-

sign, signed by the most famous architects of our times, along

with its glamorous venues and beaches. For those who seek the

excitement and adrenaline rush of amusement parks, there is

Mirabilandia (in Savio) just a short distance away, or for art and

culture enthusiasts, the marvellous town of Ravenna, a Une-

sco heritage site, which takes you straight into the Byzantine

age with its amazing mosaics. Along the same lines of tour-

ist development as Riccione and Milano Marittima, Marina di Ravenna has emerged in recent years as an exotic corner of

Romagna thanks to its Duna degli Orsi, an original venue which

started out as a place for surfers to gather, and Zanzibar, which

re-creates the festive atmosphere of Brazil.

Wherever you go in Emilia-Romagna, every town and village

is steeped in history and tradition: from the beaches on the

Riviera, you just have to move inland to come across Ferrara,

an amazing town which has preserved intact the lavish Re-

naissance style imposed by the d’Este family. And what about

Faenza, a workshop-town for the production of handcrafted

ceramics.

1843. The first bathing establishment was opened in Rimini.

The new sea bathing therapy was being promoted by English

doctors: from here in Rimini and its Riviera, a proper industry

grew up, consisting of hotels, restaurants, beach facilities, spa

centres, discotheques and services of all kinds. People go to the

Romagna Riviera to dance all night, drink an evening cock-

tail on the coast, work out on the fitness beaches and get to

know people. But it is also popular with those who like to take

long walks with the family, enjoy beach entertainment with

the kids, or have fun in the aquatic parks. Many things have

changed since 1843, but one thing remains constant: the or-

ganization of a whole area as though it were one single tourist

product and a unique tourist experience.

Among the various locations on this coast, Rimini is certainly

the one that most combines the concept of tourist resort and

cultural hub: it offers 30 km of beaches complete with facilities,

over 1000 hotels, hundreds of restaurants and pizza parlours,

but also a large Municipal Museum, an historical town centre

boasting many Ancient Roman and Renaissance monuments,

the archaeological sites of the Surgeon’s Domus. In addition,

numerous events and shows are staged during the summer,

with something for all ages. For example? The Pink Night, the

Riviera Beach Games, the Paganello, the Cartoon Club, the

Trade Fair and the new Congress Hall, the Fitness Festival etc.

Riccione, on the other hand, is the Green Pearl of the Adriat-

ic, the trendiest and most celebrated destination, which offers

holidays for all budgets (from family-run guest houses to luxury

hotels). The attractions also include some of the most popular

The riviera...that never sleeps!

Above: an outdoor disco on the riviera.

On the left: a dolphin show at the Dolphinarium in Rimini.

44

Toscana Picture postcard views

TUSCANY

Tuscany offers beautiful seas, hills, spas,

festivals and cities with a rich artistic heritage,

with a bit of mountainous landscape thrown

in for good measure. Tuscany has everything

visitors could possibly need for a well-rounded holiday. Just choose

whether to spend your holiday on the white sandy beaches of

Versilia with celebrities or have a healthy cycling holiday amid

“picture postcard” hills, sunfl owers and vineyards. Visitors

are spoilt for choice: on the one hand there are the numerous

local fairs and festivals that focus mainly on simple, tasty and

genuine Tuscan food; on the other, you can enjoy a relaxing

time in the spa waters that fl ow from the rocks to form natural

pools of hot spring water set amidst the countryside. Visitors

can opt for a comprehensive cultural holiday from the art of

Tuscany’s famous towns and cities to the numerous medieval

jousts organised throughout the region. The alternative is to try

and do a bit of everything, experiencing Tuscany to the full.

45

In the cradle of the Renaissance

The cities of art in Tuscany make a winning team because they form

a perfect “package” which never ceases to arouse the curiosity of

visitors: travelling from one place to the next, you pass through

marvellous landscapes which relax the mind and help you to leave

the stress of modern city life far behind.

A good place to start is Prato and its Castello dell’Imperatore

(Emperor’s castle), a rare and imposing example of Swabian-

Angevin architecture. Prato is a true city of art, considering that it is

possible to admire the works of Andrea della Robbia in the church

of Santa Maria delle Carceri while the Cathedral of St. Stephen

contains the frescoes of Paolo Uccello and Filippo Lippi. Renowned

since the Middle Ages for the manufacture and trade of fabrics,

Prato provides an illustrated overview of this historical activity in

the Museo del Tessuto (Textile and Fabric Museum).

The tour moves from Prato to Pistoia, where it is worth visiting the

beautiful Piazza del Duomo with the Cathedral of St. Zeno, and the

town hall and the magistrates’ and the bishop’s palaces with their

gothic profiles.

Known as “the city with a hundred churches”, Lucca greets visitors

with its colourful rounded square, a welcoming place steeped in

history like the entire region it represents. The most important of

the hundred churches is undoubtedly the Cathedral of St. Martin

where visitors can admire the wonderful works of Nicola Pisano

and the marvellous gothic-renaissance tomb of Ilaria del Carretto,

made in 1407 by Jacopo della Quercia in memory of the wife of

Paolo Giunigi, the lord of the city. Before leaving Lucca, you can

not miss a romantic walk along the renaissance city wall, a hanging

garden that surrounds the historic centre. Pisa is unquestionably

an emblematic representative of Italian art and architecture in the

world. The famous Leaning Tower stands next to the Cathedral in

Piazza dei Miracoli (the Square of Miracles) although it is actually

the Cathedral’s bell tower. Construction work on the tower began in

1173 but it began to lean over midway during the building work due

to the ground subsidence. Inside the Cathedral, which is divided into

five naves, the pulpit carved by Giovanni Pisano is one of the most

important gothic sculptures in Italy. Massa and Carrara, just a few

kilometres away from the Apuan Riviera, still preserve the charm of

traditional historic towns and cities of art and culture. Immediately

to the north, set between the Apuan Alps and the Appenines, lies

Lunigiana, the region that supplied the marble used to stunning

effect in the cathedral of Carrara, the Cathedral of Massa and all

the façades of the large churches of Tuscany and nearby Liguria.

Overlooking the sea, Livorno is famous for its Naval Academy

and the headquarters of the “Folgore” Parachutists’ Brigade. It is

also renowned for the cacciucco, the rich fish soup that is the city’s

trademark dish. It is primarily a port city and, as such, has always

been open to different cultures and religions: it houses a place of

worship and a monumental cemetery for every religion! Siena is

the protagonist of the Tuscan summer with the Palio, which is held

twice a year. It is the queen of traditional historical re-enactments.

Tourists can enjoy a full immersion in the city’s past: this includes

the division of the city into districts, the concentric plan around

Piazza del Campo and the Mangia Tower, the Fonte Gaia and the

Palio, which still arouses passionate feelings to this day. Visitors can

enjoy a similar trip through time at Arezzo, which has a carefully

preserved historic appearance, with its Giostra del Saracino (Saracen

Joust) in which the city’s four districts challenge each other.

Opposite page: a riot of colour in the hills of Val d’Orcia. Above from left to right: local handicrafts; rock near the island of Palmarola; Piazza del Campo in Siena; Piazza dei Miracoli in Pisa.

Below: Piazza dell’Anfiteatro in Lucca.

46

In terms of landscape, Tuscany immediately conjures up

visions in tourists’ minds of the region’s gently rolling hills.

Val d’Orcia represents the standard image of the yellow hills,

with a narrow row of cypresses on the “hump”. We are in

Siena’s heartland, where the panorama is stripped down to the

bare essentials and is of matchless simplicity... and yet quite

wonderful. The colours of the sky and the different shades that

follow each other during the day offer a constant contrast to

the warm colours of the fi elds, the red soil when it is freshly

ploughed (“Siena earth”), the green crops in early summer

and the golden hues of late summer. Even the roads have a

harmonious quality, following the contours and bends of the

slopes, without any excesses and with effortless elegance, often

accompanied by orderly rows of cypress trees. The summits of

the most imposing hills are topped with towns, castles, abbeys

and monasteries, surrounded by the vineyards of Brunello. A

small part of the area is mountainous, in the westernmost part

of the valley where Mount Amiata, the highest extinct volcano

in Italy, silently overlooks Castel del Piano and, further in the

distance, Montalcino, Pienza, Montepulciano, San Quirico

d’Orcia and other romantic towns. The river that gives its name

to the valley is little more than a stream; in summer it often

runs dry while in autumn it is a fast-fl owing and tumultuous

stream. However, there are other water features which have

made this area distinctive since ancient Roman times: in

Bagno Vignoni the spa waters have been exploited with small

natural and artifi cial pools, linked to each other by ancient

water channels which use the force of gravity to create small

waterfalls and constant movement. Most of the water collects

in a large pool (where swimming is not permitted) which

replaces the town square and gives it a unique appearance: the

impact is particularly strong on summer days, when the blue

of the sky and the colours of the fl owers are refl ected in the

middle, creating plays of light and unique refl ections.

Chianti also lies in the Siena area and its landscape almost

appears to have been drawn or painted. The fascinating Crete Senesi are hills that continuously change shape due to the

sculpting of the clay which forms the main component of the

soil. Here too, there are plenty of opportunities to relax, with

the spa waters of Rapolano Terme, to enjoy local food, tasting

the truffl e of San Giovanni d’Asso, and to appreciate local

archaeology; it is worth visiting the fascinating excavation of

From sunfl owers to woods, the magicof the Tuscan hills

47

Pieve di Pava where each summer hundreds of students from

all over the world excavate and study a medieval site which

was probably built on old Roman buildings and possibly even

Etruscan ruins. It is quite common to see young people walking

along in rows in the fields at a fixed distance from each other

with their eyes glued to the ground and holding state-of-the-

art machinery: they are involved in archaeological survey and

remote sensing and other disciplines which provide crucial

support for classical archaeological excavation.

Chianti is naturally associated with wine. Just move to the right

hills, with the best exposure to the sun and the ideal mineral

components in the soil, to discover colourful rows of vines

with different varieties of grapes: even the wines produced

in the Tuscan hills differ considerably from each other. The

so-called Strade del Vino (Wine Trails) have been specially

created for sensitive tourists who love active holidays and want

to explore the flavours of the region and its traditions: there

are clearly marked signs for anyone who wants to explore the

trail by car, motorbike, bicycle or on foot; the signs provide

precise information about the road you are travelling on, the

distances to various places of interest, descriptions of the

features of the wines produced on each route, highlighting

the cultural visits that can be made in the area, the available

infrastructure and services, from wineries to holiday farmhouses

and museums. There are currently 14 Wine Trails in Tuscany

and they are located throughout the region: from the north,

“Colli di Candia e di Lunigiana”, “Colline Lucchesi e Montecarlo”, “Montespertoli”, “Carmignano” (the so-called

“strada medicea”), “Chianti Rùfina e Pomino”, “Chianti Colli Fiorentini”, “Colline Pisane”, “Terre di Arezzo”, “Vernaccia di San Gimignano”, “Monteregio di Massa Marittima”, “Montecucco”, “Nobile di Montepulciano”, “Costa degli Etruschi” and “Colli di Maremma”. Not all the names are

particularly well-known but they conceal old traditions, high

quality products and authentic itineraries.

The hills of the Maremma have a completely different

appearance. This is the southernmost area of Tuscany and

Opposite page: hills near San Gimignano. This page, clockwise from the left:

a field of sunflowers; countryside near San Quirico d’Orcia; sunset over

the Bay of Baratti; countryside along the Monteregio Wine Trail in Massa Marittima;

a cowherd in the Regional Park of the Maremma.

coincides with the territory of Grosseto. The Maremma is

a byword for wild nature, woodland and a lifestyle based on

respect for the environment and wildlife which has found its

ideal conditions here: the Maremma is as strong and rugged as

its wild boars and as elegant and free as its horses. The area is

protected by the Regional Park of the Maremma, one of the fi rst

Italian nature reserves, and, towards the sea, by the National

park of the Tuscan Archipelago which includes the coast and the

islands. Like the whole of Tuscany, the Maremma simply oozes

history: the Castle of Montemassi, an imposing ruin with

polygonal towers, built on a spur of rock which was probably

already inhabited in antiquity with wooden huts and buildings;

the monument provides testimony of the lesser and more

important battles fought in the Maremma area for control of a

region which was rich in timber and game. It is the same castle

that is depicted in Guidoriccio da Fogliano, painted by Simone

Martini in 1330, a large fresco in the Sala del Mappamondo

in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena. Archaeology, art and history

combine to provide the data required to reconstruct events. This

is the case for every small town in the region.

Returning to the “yellowest” area of the Tuscan hills, the main

protagonists are the abbeys: they include masterpieces of

Romanesque architecture such as Sant’Antimo; just a stone’s

throw from Montalcino, the white-hooded monks, who still

live in the structure and run its religious and accommodation

facilities, can be seen walking among the capitals decorated

with the typical faces and fi gures of the medieval bestiary and

the imposing arches and columns made from warmly coloured

stone. Another example is Monte Oliveto Maggiore, the

fi fteenth century abbey inhabited by Olivetan Benedictine

monks who live in an enclosed order and, in accordance with

tradition, produce different herbal medicines. The centre of the

monastery is the cloister, a place that symbolises monastic life

as a communion with God (there is no roof so that there is a

sensation of direct contact with the sky) and the other brothers.

However, the most legendary of Tuscan monasteries is San Galgano, the majestic unroofed Cistercian abbey which was

consecrated in 1288 in honour of Galgano, a local nobleman

who converted to poverty. The building is surrounded by

huge stretches of sunfl owers. The nearby chapel, known as

the “Rotonda di Montesiepi”, houses the “sword in the stone”

which, according to tradition, was thrust into the stone by

Galgano himself as a tangible symbol of his own conversion.

Many theories link the story of Galgano to that of King Arthur.

Once again, in the peace of the Tuscan countryside, history and

legend go hand in hand.

Above from left to right: vineyards near San Gimignano; view of Volterra. Below: Abbey of Sant’Antimo. Opposite page: Abbey of San Galgano..

49

50

The fi rst thing to do in Florence is to close your eyes: as you reopen

them, you will fi nd yourself walking through the Renaissance city

in the company of Brunelleschi and Michelangelo, Donatello and

Masaccio, all at work transforming the city into the true capital

of the Renaissance. Churches, palaces, museums, bridges: art

and history are the thread running through each street. Then

you encounter Dante, Boccaccio and Petrarch and this is where

literature appears. In the city of Florence, culture is king!

The Uffi zi Gallery, one of the most important museums in the

world, houses the collection of the Medici family and is housed

in a majestic building that resembles a sort of U-shaped corridor

suspended in front of the river Arno; it was initially designed

as a private walkway between the masterpieces of Renaissance

painting. The Uffi zi Gallery provides an excellent selection of

Italian works of art between the fourteenth and sixteenth century:

Giotto, Piero della Francesca, Botticelli (including the unmissable

works Spring and the Birth of Venus), Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi,

Leonardo da Vinci (the Annunciation), Michelangelo (the Tondo Doni or The Holy Family), Raphael, Andrea Mantegna, Correggio

and Caravaggio. Other important parts of the gallery that are

defi nitely worth seeing include the collections of German, Dutch

and Flemish painters such as Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens.

From the panoramic terrace there is a splendid view over Piazza

della Signoria and the historic centre of the city.

Piazza della Signoria has always been the civic centre of the city

and is dominated by Palazzo Vecchio, a gothic fortress which is

now the city hall, with the Arnolfo Tower, the 94-metre tower

which is the symbol of the power of the Florentine Republic.

The other decorative features of the square include the Fountain

of Neptune and the bronze statues of the Loggia dei Lanzi, in

particular the statue of Perseus by Benvenuto Cellini.

Art lovers should defi nitely visit the Accademia Gallery, which

houses the original version of Michelangelo’s David, the copy of

which dominates Piazza della Signoria. The statue is the pride of

Florence due to the sense of nobility and dignity which the young

artist (he was only 26 years old at the time) managed to convey

from one single block of marble: it is said that no one wanted to

carve the block of stone measuring over 4 metres and known as

“il gigante” (the giant). The gallery also features other incomplete

works by Michelangelo known as “I Prigioni” (The Prisons).

Firenze:the many museums of a city-museum

This page, from the top: Brunelleschi’s Dome and Palazzo Vecchio.

Opposite page, from the top: Giotto’s bell tower and view of Florence with River Arno.

51

«

The Florentine museum network also includes the Museo del Bargello where visitors can admire an unrivalled collection

of the most important works of Renaissance sculpture, such as

Donatello’s David. The Bargello was once a fortress-prison, and

it is possible to visit the chapel which was reserved for the last

prayers of prisoners who had been sentenced to death.

To reach the other large part of the museum network of Florence,

it is necessary to cross the river Arno: here you come to Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence (1345), which used to be

the location of butchers’ shops which were replaced, by order of

Grand Duke Cosimo I, by the jeweller’s shops that still give the

bridge its character today. It is the only bridge over the Arno to

have survived the Second World War and the flood of 1966. The

bridge is considered the most romantic place in Florence and

there are no words to describe its incredible beauty at sunset.

By crossing the Arno, you come to Palazzo Pitti, the colossal

residence of the Medici family which today houses as many as

five museums (including the Palatine Gallery) as well as the

Giardino di Boboli, Florence’s “museum” of plants and flowers.

Inquisitive visitors can also go in search of the city’s many small

museums. They are incredibly diverse in nature. Each one has

its own distinctive quality so that a tour of Florence’s museums

never ceases to be a source of pleasant surprises!

To complete the visit, a walk around an outdoor museum –

namely the historic centre - is an absolute must. If you look up in

Piazza del Duomo, you will be astonished at the sight of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Bell Tower.

Besides the grandiose and majestic nature of the monuments, the

really striking aspect is the elegance of the composition of the

materials and colours of the structures. The cathedral is one of the

largest churches in the world and is dominated by Brunelleschi’s dome, an impressive landmark which is visible from whichever

direction you approach the city: as you climb you can take in a

unique view. The bell tower, which is 85 metres high and has 414

steps, provides the best viewpoint of the city because it is the only

place where you can admire the dome from close up. The third

element of the complex, the Baptistery, is famous for its bronze

panels, made by Ghiberti, which are so beautiful that they were

called “the gates of paradise”.

Province: Florence

Altitude: 50 m asl

Inhabitants: 378.236

Tourist information:APT Firenze Via Cavour -Via Cavour, 1/r

Tel. +39 055.290832 – 055.290833

www.firenzeturismo.it

52

Versilia: trend-setting beaches

If there is a fashionable side to Tuscany, this is Versilia. The strip of

land in the province of Lucca takes its name from the river Versilia

and in past times it used to be known as the “Fosse Papiriane”.

There is a historical part, made up of four municipalities which

are situated in the mountainous area of the river, and there is

also “contemporary Versilia”, the coastal riviera; its predominantly

tourist appeal combines a huge, golden sandy beach with lively

fashionable nightlife, featuring numerous night clubs and

renowned discos overlooking the sea.

Lido di Camaiore offers a distinctively elegant walk along

the seashore which stretches for more than 4 km, beside lidos,

restaurants and shops until the brand new pier which is the

perfect place to sip an aperitif; in an earlier age, D’Annunzio used

to spend his holidays here with the actress Eleonora Duse, as

did King Victor Emmanuel III, Puccini, Marconi and Mussolini,

frequent guests at the villa of Senator Rolandi Ricci, now the

Hotel Ariston. The town of Camaiore, whose lido is its seaside

offshoot, extends up into the Apuan Alps and is perched on the

hills of Seimiglia and the plain of Capezzano, famous for the

production of strawberries and fl owers.

Any mention of “Versilia” must inevitably include “Forte dei Marmi”. We are now entering historic Versilia (with Seravezza,

Stazzema and Pietrasanta). The name derives from the small

fort which stands in the centre of the town, built by Grand Duke

Pietro Leopoldo at the end of the eighteenth century, and from

the marble which came from the nearby quarries in the Alps

and was shipped from here. There is an intriguing Museum of

Satire and Caricature inside the fort. Forte dei Marmi is nowadays

the holiday resort for politicians and sports and showbusiness

personalities. The town has many clubs, discos and shops selling

luxury goods, even though the main attraction is the beach with its

extraordinarily fi ne golden sand and the beach huts overlooking

the avenue of the seafront. The architecture includes villas

designed by architects such as Gio Ponti and Giuseppe Pagano,

historic villas that belonged to the leading families of Italian

history such as the Agnellis, and the Capannina discotheque

53

On these pages: above, three views of the beaches of Versilia;

on the left, a firework display in Viareggio.

The “Bistecca alla Fiorentina” – the Florentine T-bone steak –

has a long history. Its importance increased with the Medici

family who, on the feast day of San Lorenzo on the 10th

August, illuminated the city with enormous bonfires used to

roast steaks which were then distributed amongst the city’s

inhabitants. The story goes that there were English people

present who referred to the meat as beef steak: this led to

the Italianised term “bistecca”, which is obtained from cuts

of the loin of Chianina breed bullocks. There is a T-shaped

bone in the middle of the steak, hence the English name. The

meat is hung for two weeks in a fridge and is then cooked

on a fire stone or on the grill over charcoal made from oak,

holm-oak or olivewood. The standard T-bone steak weighs

about 1.5 kg.

which opened in 1929: this is the “Roma Imperiale” district which,

since the tourist boom in the sixties, has represented “Versilia” in

the collective imagination.

In the historic part of Versilia, visitors can admire Pietrasanta -

the “Small Athens” -, the meeting point of sculptors who came

from all over the world to work marble and bronze. The numerous

galleries give it the appearance of a miniature city of art, while the

small streets of the old town contain important sculptures such as

The Warrior by Fernando Botero. Seravezza gives its name to the

two rivers Vezza and Serra, which join to form the river Versilia.

The town is dominated by the sixteenth century Medici Palace,

which houses the Museo del Lavoro e delle Tradizioni Popolari

della Versilia Storica (the Museum of Work and Folk Traditions

in Historical Versilia). Lastly, there is Stazzema, the smallest and

highest town in the area, the ideal base for setting off on trips on

foot or bicycle.

Torre del Lago is the destination of opera lovers from all over

the world. The town takes its name from the 15th century tower

which overlooks Lake Massaciuccoli. Since 1938 Puccini has been

added to its name in honour of the composer who lived in Torre

del Lago and composed many of his works there: Torre del Lago Puccini is now the complete name of the town. The Puccini

residence stands on the viewpoint of the lake and houses the

composer’s tomb. The seafront of Torre del Lago is packed with

tourists in summer due to the presence of discos and clubs on the

beach of Lecciona.

Lastly, “Versilia” is also associated in people’s minds with

“Viareggio”. The city, which overlooks the sea with 10 km of

beach, of which 6 are occupied by lidos and 4 are freely accessible

to the public, is the heart of Tuscan seaside tourism. The eclectic

buildings in Art Nouveau and Art Déco styles give the centre and

the promenade an elegant and sophisticated quality: the area is

overlooked by the famous Teatro Politeama. Viareggio is also one

of Italy’s most famous cities due to its Carnival: throughout the

year it is possible to visit the Museo e la Cittadella del Carnevale

(Carnival Museum and Citadel), with warehouses and workshops

where the papier mâchè floats are made for the following year’s

Fiorentina: a brief history of a legend

procession. In the pine forests and woods of Ponente and Levante,

there are numerous cycle paths and footpaths with sports facilities

set in the woodland, just a stone’s throw away from the sea. Since

late nineteenth century, when the Nettuno and Balena lidos were

established, the “Pearl of the Tyrrhenian” offers a complete holiday

experience: sea, countryside, fun and fashion.

54

Isolad’ElbaA gem of

an islandTHE ISLAND

OF ELBA

Legend has it that the Island of Elba

and other islands in the Tuscan

Archipelago were created from the

gems of Venus’ diadem which fell

into the sea. This was the reason for their beauty

and led to the name of “Queens of the Tyrrhenian

Sea”. One island and many small islands, which

ancient peoples tried to conquer by fi ghting

against the terrible shearwaters, the “talking

birds” who were the incarnation of the tormented

souls of sailors who had lost their lives at sea.

In antiquity, not even the most precise nautical

maps could identify the presence and position

of the numerous rocks around the isle of Elba.

The waves breaking against the rocks provide

a unique spectacle of unbridled nature.

55

Elba is a minute piece of land in the middle of the sea with

an eventful and turbulent history. The fate of the island has

always been determined by two factors: its strategic position

and the wealth of the minerals in its subsoil. As a conse-

quence, it has often been fought over, a sought-after base

from which the leading powers of the Mediterranean could

control trade routes along the Italian coast. For the Etruscans

the iron of Elba was a source of wealth and contributed to the

prosperity of their civilisation.

Archaeologists have brought to light two incredibly rich pa-

trician villas near the spa complex of the island: the Romans

also appreciated Elba for its iron ore but especially for the

healing properties of its thermal mud. During the Middle Ages Pisa gained control of the island which preserves the

traces of Pisan rule in the form of defensive fortifications.

This was followed by the Renaissance signories and Cosi-mo I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, who built his Cos-mopoli (now Portoferraio) on the ruins of the Roman Fabricia

in 1548, providing it with strong defensive walls to protect

the inhabitants from pirate raids.

Elba can be described as a fortified island. The Spanish, for

example, after making their base at Porto Azzurro, built the

seventeenth century Fort of San Giacomo. Now a prison, the

fort enjoyed a privileged position and had such an impos-

ing defensive structure that the English, Germans and French

had to resort to military force to gain possession of it. Of all

the historical events that befell it, the one that made the is-

land famous was the brief period of exile of Napoleon, who

stayed there for ten months (between 1814 and 1815) before

returning secretly to Paris and regaining power. Napoleon

was undoubtedly not treated as a prisoner, as he had been

at Sant’Elena: at Elba, Bonaparte became king and there are

still sumptuous Napoleonic residences which testify to this

historical episode.

History, monuments and art have always been enclosed with-

in 147 km of coastline and all types of beaches, ranging from

low sandy beaches to small pebbly coves, from large expanses

of black sand to stretches of white pebbles, and even beaches

of granite.

Elba’s uniqueness lies in the enormous variety of environments,

from which it is possible to discover unexpected panoramic

views. The most famous view point for scanning the horizon

over the crystal clear waters of the Tyrrhenian sea is Mount Ca-

panne, the highest point of the island (1019 metres). On clear

days, it is possible to make out Corsica and some of the islands

along the archipelago: Pianosa, Capraia, Montecristo and Gor-

gona. The slopes of Mount Capanne are covered in Mediterra-

nean scrub and large granite boulders, beneath some of which

several ancient settlements are hidden, while other boulders

have been eroded by the wind, forming strange shapes that have

earned the name “Stone monsters”. The whole landscape is dot-

ted with beautiful wild orchids. To reach the summit of Mount

Capanne, besides the numerous paths which are a paradise for

enthusiastic trekkers and cyclists, there is also a two-seater ca-

bleway which leaves from Marciana and take visitors in just a

few minutes to enjoy a unique 360 degree view stretching from

the sky to the sea.

Elba is the largest island in the Tuscan Archipelago, made

up of seven main islands (besides Elba, in order of size,

Giglio, Capraia, Montecristo, Pianosa, Gorgona, and Giannu-

tri), three minor islands (Palmaiola, Cerboli, the “Formiche di

Grosseto”), sandbanks and reefs situated between the coast

of Livorno and Corsica. The archipelago is surrounded by

both the Ligurian Sea and the Tyrrhenian Sea, linked by the

Channel of Piombino and the Channel of Corsica. The islands

all share the “bright” sea, which is a favourite destination of

scuba divers, an unspoilt vegetation as well as the opportuni-

ty to enjoy a holiday in stunning natural surroundings.

A fragment of history

surrounded by blue sea

Opposite page: a view of Portoferraio. Above: two views of the sea

and a beach on the Island of Elba.

«

56

One small island, many small towns

tions, customs and economies emerged in each place. One exam-

ple is the municipality of San Piero, whose economy was based

exclusively on granite mining (there is a very interesting itinerary

called “Vie del granito” – the granite trail), and the nearby munic-

ipality of Marciana, a picturesque place which has always been

associated with the cultivation of chestnuts and timber and with

sheep-farming. An even starker contrast exists between Rio, the

mining town, Porto Azzurro, the power base under Spanish rule,

and Portoferraio, the city-principality which welcomed Cosimo

I de’ Medici and Napoleon. Nowadays, the differences between

one town and another can only be observed in the customs, food

and, in particular, in the local dialect.

Equally renowned is the town of Capoliveri, perched on a hill,

now one of the most typical and active towns of Elba. It is a fasci-

nating place with a rich history and linked to the other towns with

a free shuttle service which encourages visitors to travel around

according to the various events organised both during the day

and the evening. Its distinctive feature is the classical architecture

of the medieval town with narrow lanes and picturesque arches

(known as “chiassi”), craft workshops and unpretentious restau-

rants where visitors can taste local dishes. Its name derives from

the Latin term Caput Liberum, “sacred to Bacchus”: for millennia,

the town has been associated with excellent grapes and excellent

wine. Each year at the end of September, to celebrate the Festa dell’Uva (Grape and Wine Festival), the four districts of Fosso,

Torre, Fortezza and Baluardo challenge each other by staging cho-

reographies based on different themes of the grape harvest. The

Festa dell’Innamorata (The Lovers’ Festival) is held on 14th July

and is based on the old legend of two young lovers (Lorenzo and

Maria), while the Festa del Cavatore (Miners’ festival) is held in

early May and celebrates the old mining origins of the island.

Elba offers much more than just its beautiful seaside. It is an is-

land really worth exploring with fascinating traditions that should

be experienced to the full.

In 1557 Cosimo I de’ Medici, while creating an imposing system

of defences to protect the island from Turkish pirates, built Cos-

mopoli. The Falcone Fort and Stella Fort were constructed on the

promontory while the Linguella Fort, together with the Martello

Tower, were built in defence of the harbour, all of them linked

by a fortifi ed wall: it formed an invincible citadel! The town soon

changed its name to Portoferraio, partly following the tradition

of transporting iron. From being the outpost of the Medici grand

duchy, it has now become the main tourist port of the island.

The island offers pleasant surprises, especially for visitors who

imagine it merely as a place of sunshine, sea and beaches. The

island, which extends for just 224 sq.km, is subdivided into eight

municipalities which, until very recently, were extremely different

from each other and so isolated that completely different tradi-

A part of Elba’s fame stems from its wines which, in Roman

times, led it to be known as Insula vini ferax (wine-rich island);

in medieval times, its wines were served at the tables of the Popes

while in the eighteenth century the island’s wines fi lled the holds

of commercial vessels. Procanico, Sangioveto,’Elba Bianco and

Elba Rosso are the classic high quality DOC wines; the island is

also famous for dessert wines such as Ansonica Passita, Moscato

and Aleatico. The island’s cuisine, which is equally distinctive,

has been infl uenced by the presence of numerous cultural tradi-

tions: the schiaccia briaca is a cake which was originally made

without alcohol (in accordance with the strictures of the Koran)

and has pine nuts and sultanas, typically oriental ingredients.

The use of the sweet red Aleatico wine, an essential part of the

current version of the cake, is a later nineteenth century addition,

as are the walnuts, which are not grown on the island and were

therefore extremely costly in the past.

Tastes of distant lands

Province: Livorno

Altitude: 4 m asl

Inhabitants: 12 224

Tourist information:

Azienda di Promozione Turistica

Calata Italia, 26 - Tel. +39 0565 914671

www.turismo-elba.it

57

Wondersunder the sea

are slightly shallower but just as interesting. The dive involves a

descent that follows the rocky seabed which, at a depth of 15-20

metres, creates intriguing hollows inhabited by a great number of

bright yellow cluster anemones (parazoanthus axinellae). The lively

colour, alongside the blue walls, can also be seen near to Punta Bianca where the reefs rise to only a few metres below the surface.

There are also small caves inhabited by hundreds of red prawns.

Moreover, in the cove of Portoferraio there is an islet with a var-

ied seabed, while along the northern side of the island, the coast-

al waters often begin with stretches of boulders, patches of sand

and sandy plains until, with the aid of flippers, divers can reach

long reefs with a distinctive profile which drop down to a depth of

about 50 metres. Among the rocks it is not unusual to spot a few

groupers. Other areas of interest for scuba diving include Punta della Madonna, Capo Stella, Capo Caldo, Capo d’Enfola with

the large rock known as Scoglio della Nave, and the large sand-

bank known as Secca del Careno which rises to up to 14-20 me-

tres from the surface.

One of the few opportunities for scuba diving off Elba that does not

require a boat is the dive to discover the “wreck of Pomonte”: rest-

ing on a detrital seabed, at a depth of 12 metres, is the hull of the

ship Elviscot which sank in 1972 during heavy seas. Among the

metal plates of the wreck, it is possible to spot conger eels, white

sea bream and octopus amid the play of light that penetrates the

ship’s portholes.

Elba is the perfect training ground for divers of all levels of ability

and experience! In Campo nell’Elba, Marciana, Rio Marina, Ca-

poliveri, Porto Azzurro, Marciana Marina and Portoferraio there

are well-equipped scuba diving centres for anyone interested in

exploring the marvels of Elba’s undersea world.

The seabed of Elba is home to an exhaustive “sample” of the im-

mense natural heritage of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The numerous caves

and numerous narrow passageways between the rocks provide stun-

ning views. There is also fascinating submerged evidence of ancient

maritime trade routes: it is not unusual to find fragments of ancient

amphorae. There are also traces of the modern era on the seabed: for

example, beyond the lighthouse of Portoferraio, 37 metres below the

surface, lies the wreckage of a Junkers 52 plane of the German Luftwaffe, shot down on 9th September 1944; on the muddy sea-

bed, around the wreck, it is possible to encounter large spiny lobsters,

European lobsters and the sunfish. In the area of Punta Nasuto,

visitors can enjoy an underwater itinerary that leads through large

shoals of damselfish and reaches the base of the reef at a depth of

about 42 metres. The view around these submerged islands is quite

extraordinary: shoals of white sea bream and brown meagres within

the deep fissures, conger eels peering out from the rocks and beau-

tiful anthias. The reef also provides an incredibly rich barrier of coral!

The so-called “Formiche della Zanca” are one of the most beautiful

areas for scuba diving off the northern coast of Elba: the name refers

to a group of rocks that rise out of the water and whose most spec-

tacular side faces Capraia, with high rocky spires and a deep gully

inhabited by brown meagres. Below a depth of 45 metres, the fan-

tastic seabed is covered by the sea fans of the red paramuricea clavata,

which provides a stunning subject for photography together with the

shoals of anthias and damselfish that move between its branches.

One of the areas that attracts many scuba divers to Elba lies just off

Capo Fonza, in a splendid and easily identifiable sandbank which,

at a depth of 40 metres, is characterised by fissures and small caves

with lobsters, white sea bream and moray eels. The reefs of the

Scogli dei Gemini, close to the western coast of Capo Calamita,

Opposite page: a view of Poggio, in the Commune of Marciana Marina. This page, above: the wreck of the Elviscot; the splendid sea depths of the island of Elba.

58

MarcheThe only region in Italy with a plural

name: the Marche are in fact made

up of many small Municipalities.

Small Communes characterized by

the presence of the Apennines which gently descend

towards the sea, an outlook onto the Adriatic which,

further south, becomes deeper and is laced with

interminable soft sandy beaches. Every corner of

this region has a different look but they all share

one aspect: beauty. A characteristic that has

inspired some truly unforgettable masterpieces,

executed by the famous names of Italian art

and culture who have come from this region.

Nature and culture: a region’s trademark

MARCHE

59

A land of great personalities, from Giacomo Leopardi and Raf-faello, to Giovan Battista Pergolesi and Gioacchino Ross-ini, who were all born here. A land of art cities and historical

hamlets, set between the hills, facing the sea and the valleys of

the Apennines. A land of artworks of inestimable value, such

as the masterpieces of Piero della Francesca, Raffaello, Loren-

zo Lotto, Tiepolo, Giovanni Bellini, Rubens and Tiziano. A land

of archaeological remains, crossed by the roads of the Ancient

Rome as they wound their way towards the rest of the peninsu-

la. A land of museums, libraries, theatres and castles, but also

one of great religious faith, dotted with abbeys and monasteries.

The Marche, in fact, are an ancient region dating back thou-

sands of years but, at the same time, one of great modernity

and innovation, with an enduring sense of values and traditions

from which to draw inspiration and creativity, which materialize

in local craftsmanship and industry. The combination of culture

and nature is the secret of an enviable lifestyle: it is no surprise,

therefore, if the inhabitants of this region have the longest life

expectancy in Italy!

Apart from preserving the past and its traditions, great attention

is also focused on the environment: there are twelve protected areas, comprising two national parks (the Park of the Sibillini

Mountains, the Gran Sasso Park and the Laga National Park),

four regional parks (Mount Conero, Sasso Simone and Simon-

cello, Mount San Bartolo, Gola della Rossa and Frasassi) and six natural reserves, added to which there are over one hundred

areas for the protection of wild flowers, fifteen “public” forests

and over sixty centres for environmental education.

The Sibillini Mountains represent a bridge between a myth-

ical past and the triumph of nature: the landscape of these cal-

careous mountains, over an altitude of 1700 metres, is a blaze of

delightful martagon lilies, Eugenia’s pansies and edelweiss of

the Apennines, and is still haunted by the magical presence of

the Sibyl: a sorceress, so the story narrates, who was condemned

to live in a cave high up in the mountain, for having turned

against God. The latest expedition to explore the cavern which,

according to the legend, has a tunnel leading to the centre of the

earth, took place in 1953, then an attempt to widen the entrance

provoked a landslide that sealed it forever, and the enigma of

the Sibyl lies hidden in the heart of the mountain. Because of

this and other legends, the “Blue Mountains”, as Leopardi called

them, continue to hold their mysterious charm: another story

tells that the body of Pontius Pilate was dragged here by a herd

of buffaloes and thrown into the waters of the lake which now

bears his name. It is the only natural lake in the Marche, situat-

ed at an altitude of over 1800 metres. Here too, natural wonders

go hand in hand with the rich fabric of history.

Speaking of natural wonders, Mount Conero immediately

comes to mind with its high cliffs plunging into the sea. The

Mediterranean maquis dominates the landscape which is cov-

ered with broom in spring and strawberry trees in Autumn. A

paradise for birdwatchers. And for those who seek history and

culture in a natural setting, looking out onto breathtaking sea-

scapes, there is no shortage of prehistoric cave drawings, Ro-

man caves, Benedictine and Franciscan abbeys and monasteries,

as well as the Pini archaeological area with its Picene necrop-

olis in Sirolo, defensive buildings such as Napoleonic Fort and Clementina Tower in Portonovo. Visitors are spoilt for choice. But

beauty is a constant presence.

Living the good life,

surrounded by history

Opposite page: Apennine landscape near Amandola. Above from the left:

the famous Hill of Infinity which inspired Giacomo Leopardi;

the ruins of the Roman theatre of Helvia Recina; view of the Sibillini Mountains.

Before reaching maturity, they are immersed in a potassium

hydroxide solution that eliminates their bitter flavour, be-

fore being washed several times and preserved in brine. This

is the method used to prepare the most typical speciality of

the Marche: olives “all’Ascolana”. After removing the stone

with a spiral utensil, the cavity is filled with minced meat

(or fish in the seaside version) which has been previously

cooked and deglazed with white wine and herbs, to which

spices, breadcrumbs, egg yolk and grated parmesan cheese

are added. Then the olives,

which are filled and patted

back into shape, are then

coated with breadcrumbs

and fried. Pure bliss.

The exquisite pleasure of olives

60

«

Urbino, the Renaissance interpreted as a city

the eastern side of the Duke’s Palace there is an Egyptian obelisk

dated 580 B.C., donated to the city in 1737 by Cardinal Albani

(whose name has also been given to the Diocesan Museum). As

we continue our trail through this harmonious medley of dif-

ferent ages, at just a short distance from here, we come across

the gothic Church of Saint Dominick, with its elegant Renais-

sance portal. Urbino was the birthplace of Raffaello Sanzio and

in Via Raffaello it is possible to see the 16th century home of

the artist, now a house museum in which the Madonna and Child fresco is preserved, also thought to be his work. Also dedicated

to Raffaello is the monument standing at the end of the street, a

tribute by the city to one of the icons of Italian art in the world.

The fourteenth century Albornoz Fortress is the highest point in

the city and provides a charming location, in summer months,

for numerous concerts of contemporary music.

At a short distance from the houses in the city centre, the mau-

soleum of Frederick of Montefeltro stands guard over the city

(the Church of San Bernardino degli Zoccolanti), so that what

he conceived as the most fascinating art laboratory in the Pen-

insula might never forget its origins and its lofty ambition. He

certainly looks down with a smile, seeing the most prestigious

art city of the Marche excel in culture and above all, in the warm

hospitality it offers to tourists. It really is the ideal city.

Today, the entire city of Urbino is a UNESCO human heritage

site and, centuries ago, it was one of the capitals of the Re-

naissance. Its protagonist was Duke Frederick of Montefeltro,

who commissioned the construction of the Duke’s Palace, a

palatial dwelling that was one of the fi nest in Europe, and the

symbol of this city. In ancient times the fi rst inhabited areas

were the valleys of the rivers Metauro and Foglia, which the

Romans called Urvinum. Owing to its strategic position, it im-

mediately became the object of dispute in the feudal age. This

was when the house of Montefeltro appeared on the scene,

along with Frederick, patron of the arts and originator of the

artistic splendour of the dukedom: his palace became a “palace city”, where the most illustrious artists, philosophers, math-

ematicians and musicians lived and worked… Urbino is the

“ideal city” and embodies the principles of Humanism and the

Renaissance, continuing to expand until 1631, when it was tak-

en over by the Pontifi cal State. The Duke’s Palace now houses

the National Gallery of the Marche, which occupies all of the

palace halls restored so far on the fi rst two fl oors for a total

of about 80 rooms displaying paintings on wood and canvas,

frescoes, sculptures, inlay artworks, furniture, tapestries and

drawings.

Next to the Duke’s Palace, in a decidedly different style, stands

the Cathedral, recon-

structed in a neoclassical

style towards the end of

the 18th century: it con-

tains two masterpieces by

Federico Barocci, the Last

Supper and the Martyrdom

of Saint Sebastian. Facing

Province: Pesaro - Urbino

Altitude: 485 m asl

Inhabitants: 15 627

Tourist information:

Centro IAT Urbino

piazza Rinascimento 1

Tel. +39 0722 2613

www.turismo.pesarourbino.it

Above: the Duke’s Palace

of Urbino and, in the background,

the Cathedral dome.

On the left: view of the town.

61

Velvety beaches

beautiful scenic road, not forgetting Marotta di Mondolfo, a

seaside resort with its ancient medieval village.

When on the Riviera di Velluto around Ancona, Falconara

Marittima, but particularly Senigallia are the ideal spots for

those seeking fine white sandy beaches, broken only by piers

and the picturesque Rotonda a Mare, a circular sea terrace. 13

kilometres of coastline with a rich offering of accommodation

facilities dominated by the Rocca Roveresca, just a few steps

away from the old town centre.

The Riviera del Conero, on the other hand, has a completely

different aura with Portonovo, Sirolo and the two locations of

Numana: the atmosphere in Numana Alta is a moving one,

owing to its position perched high above the sea and the ex-

istence of little beaches sheltering between the cliffs, while

Numana Bassa, also called Marcelli, offers a more dynamic

seaside holiday, with its pebbly coastline and a plentiful offer-

ing of accommodation and entertainment. From Numana, it is

possible to take a boat and reach the more intimate beaches,

exploiting this resort’s vocation as a natural harbour, a feature

the ancient Piceni had already identified as the strong point of

this place (archaeological remains of this ancient civilization

are exhibited in the Numana State Antiquarium).

The Riviera of Macerata is set in the natural greenery of its

pinewoods: Porto Recanati, the “drawing room of the Riviera”,

is a modern seaside resort that successfully cohabits with the

charming and picturesque corners of the old seafaring village,

which developed around the fifteenth century Svevo Castle;

Civitanova Marche rises on the remains of the Roman settle-

ment Cluana and, as well as its seaside, offers the possibility to

shop in the many outlets of the best fashion designers.

This leaves us with the green Riviera Picena, which rotates

around Porto Sant’Elpidio, Lido di Fermo and Porto San Gior-

gio, and the exotic Riviera delle Palme, where as many as

7,000 palm trees are the leitmotiv of the numerous resorts in

this area, the most important of which is San Benedetto del Tronto, very popular with the nineteenth century nobility, who

added a note of elegance to the long white beach by erecting a

great number of holiday homes in art nouveau style.

The coastline of the Marche region looks onto the Adriatic

sea for over 180 kilometres, with more than 15 well organ-

ized seaside resorts, ten ports and harbours (comprising An-cona, which is one of the most important seaports of Italy, and

nine tourist marinas) and as many as 16 Blue Flag locations,

an international award conferred by the “Foundation for Envi-

ronmental Education” (FEE) certifying the quality of the local

seawater and services.

At this point, and with the assurance that whatever you choose,

you can’t go wrong, you just have to decide between fine sandy

beaches, pebble coves, rocks or palms. In brief, which “Rivi-

era” will you choose to spend a relaxing and enjoyable holiday

on? The Riviera delle Colline, for instance, is one long sandy

beach interrupted by a headland in the proximity of the pret-

ty resort, Gabicce Mare, and presents brief stretches of pebbly

beaches and deep water. Gabicce extends over two levels: the

lower part, positioned on the gulf, is surrounded by vegetation,

while the upper part of town is perched above the sea and

ideal for an evening out with its nightclubs and characteristic

restaurants (owing to its position it is called Gabicce Monte).

The more romantically inclined must visit the harbour of Baia Vallugola and the Castle of Gradara, a scenario of magical

atmospheres and events of times gone by (the castle “of the

lovers” Paolo and Francesca, narrated by Dante Alighieri). Pe-saro and Fano are also well worth a visit and are linked by a

Above: the beach of Numana. On the left: the beach of Sirolo.

62

LazioSet between

ancient splendour and modern gems

LATIUM

An ancient land that represents the

true cradle of Italian civilization.

While Rome, with its international

fame and prestige, is certainly the

most important destination for tourists from all

over the world, it should not be overlooked that

there are other locations in Latium of great interest:

from the Etruscan necropolises excavated in tufa

stone to the numerous Roman archaeological

sites, as well as a succession of buildings, villas,

castles and monuments of different ages that have

been accumulated down through the centuries

to create a harmonious bridge between past and

present. Just like the countless village festivals

that manage to create an atmosphere of ancient

folklore for our present-day enjoyment.

63

The native land of the Latini, Etruscans and Romans, Latium re-

veals the signs of a magnificent past in each corner of its territo-

ry. The most northern part of the region around Viterbo is called

Tuscia, which is pure Etruscan; the area close to the borders of

Umbria, Marche and Abruzzo is Sabina, which extends from

the banks of the Tiber to the homonymous hills of the Central

Apennine chain, in the province of Rieti; finally, the Circeo is a

promontory before which lie the Pontine islands and compris-

es the area extending to the Alban mounts, in the province of

Latina. To the south of Rome, you will encounter the Ciociaria,

which takes its name from the traditional footwear called ciocie

and includes the area of Frosinone. These few elements would

suffice to trace a sufficiently ancient and vivid picture to show

how coveted this area has always been. An account of the myth-

ical foundation of Rome will even lead to digressions into the

world of legends and epic storytelling, such as when the profile

of the sorceress Circe, the enchantress of Ulysses in the Od-

yssey, is recognizable in the morphology of the homonymous

headland (the Circeo), or when narrating the story of Aene-as, the protagonist of the Aeneid who, fleeing from the city of

Troy, reaches Latium and marries Lavinia, daughter of the local

king Latinus. Romulus and Remus, the she-wolf, the count-

less mythological tales: everything has contributed to creating

an atmosphere of mystery and legend around the territory of

Latium. But it is not all imagination and literature: in Latium, as

perhaps in no other place, archaeological evidence transforms

everything into something more tangible. All the most impor-

tant roads in Italy started out from Rome (in 44 B.C. Caesar was

the first ever to recruit geographers to draw up maps of all exist-

ing roads), passed through Latium and continued their course

along the Peninsula to unite cities in a way that responded to a

set of precise criteria. It is still possible to travel down many of

these roads today, such as via Amerina in Corchiano, via Cassia

Antica in Campagnano, via della Pineta della Campana in Net-

tuno, or via Sacra in Rocca di Papa, a beautiful paved road that

used to lead to the top of Monte Cavo, where the Temple of

Jupiter used to stand, an important sanctuary of the Latini and

other populations of South Latium. Another treasure of Latium

are its necropolises, excavated in the rock in the past and deco-

rated with incredible sumptuousness. For instance, the necrop-

olis of Tarquinia extends for about 750 hectares with its 200

chamber tombs characterised by painted decorations, testifying

to the evolution of the Etruscan civilization from the VII to the

III century B.C.

And this is the rich cultural breeding ground on which the Ro-

man Empire was based and was to evolve later, an empire which

became “official” under Augustus and was destined to undergo

a transformation in the course of time, leaving traces of its pas-

sage in every subsequent age, up until the present day. An em-

pire that revolved constantly around its capital. An empire that

made enormous efforts to “Romanize” the lands it conquered

and which grew excessively to the point of crumbling under the

blows inflicted by younger and more vital kingdoms. An empire

that suffered from the presence of Christianity (today the Pope’s

seat is in the Vatican City, in the very heart of Rome). An empire

that has fired the imagination of the populations and powerful

figures of every age, as in the case of the Fascist regime, which

set out to recover the rituals and symbols of Ancient Rome to

consecrate its own power. To imitate the expansionistic exploits

of his valorous ancestors, Mussolini guided the “conquest” of

Ethiopia and the foundation of new towns on the Italian soil:

a perfect example is provided by Latina, the most important

town created during the fascist era (1932), built around Piazza

del Popolo and Piazza della Libertà, so unique in fact that it is a

candidate for UNESCO heritage listing.

In the cradle of the empire

Opposite page: a stretch of the Via Appia Antica. This page, clockwise: remains of the Roman aqueduct of Tarquinia; a view of the Imperial Forums in Rome; Piazza del Popolo in Latina.

64

«

Romecaput mundi

are in a truly historical capital city. A city in which Augustus

could erect incredible constructions on the Palatino and Nero

could build palaces like the Domus Aurea. Without forget-

ting the imperial Forums, a truly amazing and fascinating

revelation once you grasp the concept of their organization.

At just a short distance from the Forums, you can set off on

a tour of ministries and the most important institution-al buildings: the changing of the guard at the Quirinale,

a civil marriage ceremony at the Campidoglio, the comings

and goings of the authorities under the Column of Marcus Aurelius in front of Palazzo Chigi, are all events that attract

a crowd!

Not to mention the tour of Rome’s artworks, which would

take more than one lifetime to complete: from Caravaggio’s

paintings in San Luigi dei Francesi to the works of the Cap-itolini Museums and the Borghese Gallery, to end up with

the inestimable wealth of the Vatican Museums and the

Sistine Chapel, to mention but a few.

A visit to the cinema locations of Rome can be an innova-

tive and extremely interesting experience: in the film studios

of Cinecittà it is possible to admire the reconstructions of the

great films sets or the amazing set of Ancient Rome (used for

television serials, films and documentaries of all kinds) and

find out more about great Italian film stars, also by examining

their props. The gallery dedicated to Alberto Sordi, one of the

most world-famous Roman actors, is particularly significant.

This list could go on forever with various theme suggestions.

What never disappoints visitors, however, is the theme trail

focused on getting to know the old Roman quarters: from

Trastevere to Testaccio and Campo dei Fiori. What could

be more authentic than enjoying a dish of Amatriciana, Car-

bonara or some saltimbocca, with your heart filled with love

for the eternal city and all it has to offer, wherever you hap-

pen to look.

Nothing could be closer to the truth: Rome is a hub of his-

tory, art and culture. A cosmopolitan city which is not only

the capital of the Italian Republic, but also one of the most

fascinating places on earth. It is difficult to attempt a descrip-

tion of this city in a few lines since it represents layer upon

layer of different ages, monuments and opportunities that

defy definition. A visit to Rome may follow a thousand dif-

ferent themes and leitmotifs: there is the traditional tourist

trail, recommended for those on their first visit with only a

limited amount of time, which leads to the Colosseum (or

rather the Flavian Amphitheatre), the Imperial Forums, the

Altar of the Homeland (or Vittoriano), the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona and the Spanish Steps. Without forgetting

to stop off at St. Peter’s Square in the Vatican City to visit the

famous Basilica.

But there are plenty of minor curiosities to explore in the city:

you can go for a tour of the seven hills, Capitolino, Aventi-

no, Palatino, Viminale, Esquilino, Celio and Quirinale, to find

out what remains of the legend. Or it is possible to go round the seven churches and early Christian relics, including

a visit to the fascinating catacombs. Or why not follow the

course of the River Tiber, and experience the surprise of a

close-up view of the majestic Castel Sant’Angelo and the

precious little jewel of imperial Roman art, the Ara Pacis.

Without forgetting a tour of the ruins. The discovery of An-

cient Rome, in fact, is the only way to understand its propor-

tions, dimensions and power: when you observe the Baths of Caracalla in their magnificence or you walk down the Appia Antica, which never seems to end, under the shade of its

cluster pines, or when you consider that a whole stadium lies

beneath Piazza Navona... you fully grasp the fact that you

Province: Rome

Altitude: 21 m asl

Inhabitants: 2 786 034

Tourist information:

PIT Punto Informazioni Turistiche

Termini Railway Station - Via G. Giolitti 34,

Int. building F – platform 24

Fori - Via dei Fori Imperiali

Navona - Piazza delle Cinque Lune

Contact Center 060608

www.turismoroma.it

65

Castles,hills and flower festivals

the Savelli Family’s castle in the Papal Palace: inside, it houses the

Vatican astronomical observatory (“Specola Vaticana”), one of the

most important of its kind today. Here too, everything comprising

archaeological remains and fine construction work, such as the

Church of Saint Thomas of Villanova, was signed by Gian Lorenzo

Bernini. The long list of locations well worth visiting could go on

to include Frascati, Grottaferrata, Monte Porzio Catone, Rocca di

Papa, Marino and so on.

The municipalities populating the area of Latium which now of-

fers the greatest number of events come to life with their profane

grape festivals and the religious “flower festivals” known as

“infiorate”: the most ancient one in the world is that of Genzano

which takes place on the day of Corpus Domini (the first one dates

back to 1778). That of the flower festivals is an ancient tradition

demanding the participation of master “infioratori” to compose

enormous floral pavement mosaics representing artworks, docu-

ments and sacred images, all made from the petals of any type of

flower. All of the 86 Municipalities of Latium engaged in flower

festivals between April and May offer an amazing show and an

elegant blaze of colours.

“Ma che ‘cce frega, ma che ‘cce ‘mporta” is a song that has gone

around the world. It may also be considered a dedication to the

Castles, that particular territory dotted with medieval villages,

charming little towns, ancient hamlets, stately mansions, castles

and archaeological remains extending over an area lying to the

south east of Rome. The landscape and natural environment are

protected by the Regional Park of the Roman Castles, extending

over the Alban Hills, which used to be an area frequented by the

capital’s noble families and popes for their vacations, with about

9,500 hectares of protected land, covered by a thick network of

country paths inhabited by badgers, martens, peregrine falcons,

porcupines and wolves. Of the many trails extending between the

sixteen municipalities making up this area, the most well-known

is the one starting out from Lanuvio, a village close to Velletri,

surrounded by fortified walls where, once inside, visitors feel as

though they have entered another dimension, to be catapulted

into the Middle Ages, owing to the perfect preservation of its

ancient buildings. These include the X century medieval Tower,

which houses the municipal wine cellar, the ideal place in which

to taste the fine DOC wines of the Castles. From here, a pano-

ramic road leads to Genzano, a little town on the via Appia locat-

ed on the crater of Lake Nemi. The houses here are constructed

in a curious radial pattern over the hill: of its streets, the most

important are the three roads that were constructed in the 17th

century and which make up the so-called “Baroque trident”.

From Genzano, you can go on to visit Ariccia, where Palazzo

Chigi represents one of the finest examples of European Baroque,

with its original furnishings still intact, portraits of the female per-

sonages of this family and an extremely precious printed leather

used as a wall covering. When in Ariccia, you have to taste its

famous spit-roasted pork! Now it is time to set off for Albano La-ziale, which rises on the volcanic hills whose name it has adopted

and which faces the homonymous lake: here it is possible to pay a

very interesting visit to the “Cisternone”, an underground cistern

constructed by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus and which

still supplies its waters to an operative aqueduct today. This Ro-

man town used to have its own amphitheatre on the hill and it is

possible to admire a large tomb in tufa stone which is said to be

that of the legendary Horatii and Curiatii, as well as the fascinat-

ing catacombs of San Senatore (one of the largest underground

cemeteries known to man).

The last stopover is Castelgandolfo, which has always been the

Popes’ summer residence, and is the 17th century makeover of

The inhabitants of Ariccia claim it as their own, on the grounds that

it dates back to Etruscan times. There are two basic ways of seasoning

this meat: in the area of the Roman Castles, where it is eaten with the

bread of Genzano in venues called “fraschette”, it is seasoned with rose-

mary; so much so, in fact, that in Ariccia it is referred to as: “la porca

co’ un bosco de rosmarino in de’ la panza” (pork with a rosemary bush

in its belly). In Upper Latium, on the other hand, it is seasoned with

wild fennel: this typical spit-roasted pork can be enjoyed in Vignanello

and Vallerano, in the Tuscia area around Viterbo. In Poggio Bustone it

has been celebrated for the last 60 years in a festival held on the first

Sunday in October, the feast day of the Madonna and Saint Francis.

Every town and village has its own

version of porchetta

Opposite page: Rome, the Colosseum. Above: the residential area

of Castel Gandolfo on Lake Albano.

66

AbruzzoThe spectacle of nature

An Adriatic coast which starts to

jag. Resorts made for families, not

too mundane nor too isolated, full of

history, like Vasto and Francavilla

al Mare. But also promontories that are refl ected

in the sea, such as the Promontorio del Turchino

(named after the colour of the water from the deep

hues, on the coast of San Vito Chietino) and Punta

Penna, which has a tower overlooking the port basin

and with a balcony from which you can enjoy a

wide panorama that goes from Gargano to Ortona.

Immediately beside the lush wild mountain with

its protected parks and the rare animal species that

inhabit them. Abruzzo is the ideal destination for a

holiday fully immersed in nature. ABRUZZO

67

Three national parks (Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise, the Majella,

and Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga), a regional park (Sirente

Velino) and around fifty protected areas, nature reserves and

territorial parks. And then there are numerous lakes with

their individual ecosystems ... Nature in Abruzzo, dominates

unchallenged. It must be discovered with curiosity and respect,

with all those means for an active holiday that are ideal to

explore the region: on foot, by bicycle, on horseback. For

cycling tourists, the numerous parks offer a rare opportunity

to move from the sea to the highest peaks of the Apennines in

a few tens of kilometres. In fact, there are many routes along

the coast or on the rugged mountains, on the hills or on the

edges of impressive ravines, around the lakes or along the

green banks of the rivers, among the beech forests or on the

highlands, in short for bikers of all levels and with routes of

varying difficulty.

While pedalling along the many dirt roads or carrarecce with

little traffic (used only by shepherds or loggers) it is not

difficult to see Romanesque churches, hidden hermitages,

ancient stone huts, medieval castles and charming villages that

speak of the discreet and deep history of this region, but are

not included in the traditional tourist routes: small realities of

the past, nestled harmoniously in a wild and relaxing setting.

Widespread for some years now in many parks and the so

called “Abruzzo bridleways” is equestrian tourism: the horse

is without a doubt the best way to introduce yourself into this

environment. Running over meadows, through woods, moving

alongside rivers or lakes is indeed a thrilling experience riding

with a companion of adventure who knows how to move in

harmony with the rhythms of the other inhabitants of these

green places, the many animals that make Abruzzo unique.

And then you will discover hidden places unreachable by car or

motor vehicles. In 2006 the Ippovia del Gran Sasso was born,

the longest horse riding circuit in Italy, which runs through the

park of the same name across the province of L’Aquila, Pescara

and Teramo with a distance of 320 Km traced and signalled

route along mule-tracks, trails and mountain roads. Along the

route there are equipped rest areas with shelters for horses

and travellers. With numerous equestrian centres where you

can “rent” a horse and an instructor, for a holiday in complete

safety even for those who are beginners.

For lovers of trekking, however, each park offers hiking trails

equipped for any type of accessibility: children, the disabled,

as well as simple tourists who want to hike in nature but are

not trained. The National Park of Majella has completed

a series of trails of varying difficulty: the path of the Grotta

Zappano, for example, in the western part of the park, to

Lama Bianca Sant’Eufemia, consisting of a walk of about 30

minutes, with equipped picnic areas. The so-called Sentiero del Parco, however, is the most comprehensive but also the

most challenging due to the 78 km linking Percocostanzo

and Popoli touching the main peaks, including Monte Amaro

(the highest at 2793 meters above sea level) and the northern

part of Morrone. A route that really winds its way into the

wilderness, passing through only one town (Caramanico) and

very few equipped refreshment points. But one itinerary that

offers a unique experience, crossing woods, pastures, crops,

but also the so-called “macereti” (rubble) of high altitude and

with a lunar-looking appearance and the most natural and

undisturbed flora and fauna population in Italy.

Green for all tastes

Opposite page: a group of chamois. Above from the left: a composition

of sugar-coated almonds from Sulmona; the church of Madonna delle Grazie

in Teramo; landscape in the National Park of Majella. Below: the coastline of Vasto.

68

«

Chieti The “Italian wonder” which

is the stuff of legends

The history of Chieti takes us back a long time, even into my-

thology: according to legend the town was founded in 1181 BC

by the hero Achilles, who called it Teate in honour of his mother,

the goddess Thetis. It is not surprising that the city’s inhabitants

today are called Theatines and that the Homeric hero is repre-

sented in the coat of arms on a prancing horse, while holding a

spear and a shield on which is depicted a white cross on a red

fi eld with four keys, representing the four gates into medieval

Chieti (Porta Sant’Anna, Porta Santa Maria, Porta Napoli and

Porta Pescara). Legends about the origin of the city actually dif-

fer; what is certain is that the city was the capital of the warlike

people of the Marrucini, famous for their fi erce fi ghting with the

Romans, to whom they surrendered and with whom they for-

med an alliance in many battles (e.g. against Pyrrhus, Hannibal

and the Cisalpine Gauls).

This ancient history is still to be seen in the city, where Roman

remains co-exist with those of the Angevins and the Aragone-

ses, who transformed the face of the town in a period of great

development. The city also boasts an entire underground city

which was the former Teate, just below the present city centre,

and which can visited on rare and precious occasions. The city’s

main street, Corso Marrucino, which starts from Piazza Trento

e Trieste (commonly known as piazza Trinità) and ends at Ar-

niense Street, in the heart of the historic centre. On this street

there are now numerous offi ces, moved here as a result of the

damage sustained by their historic premises in other areas of

the city during the L’Aquila earthquake of 6 April 2009. In the

neoclassical villa whose construction was requested by Baron

Frigerj and later donated to the municipality, tourists can not

miss the National Archaeological Museum of Abruzzo, with

a huge garden of old trees, populated by fountains, terracings

with panoramic views of the city and toward Mount Majella,

typical Italian garden hedges and small forests with illuminated

lakes, walkways and stone bridges. At the centre there is piaz-

zale Mazzini with a monumental fountain: an elegant and so-

phisticated complex which has earned the town the recognition

of “Italian Wonder” by the National Youth Forum, a partner of

the Presidency of the Council of Ministers, the European Youth

Forum and the National Agency for young people.

The magnificent city of L’Aquila is still a ghost town after the earthqua-

ke of 2009. The monuments damaged by the earthquake, in the silence of

the historic centre that is still inaccessible, tell the story of the medieval

splendour, papal influence, Spanish domination: the Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio with the Holy Door of Pope Celestine V, the

fifteenth-century Basilica di San Bernardino, the Spanish Fort and

the Fountain of 99 jets with its stone masks and the unknown origins

of the water, whose source is not known.

A city of art that is suffering, but animated by the good humour and

courage of the people of L’Aquila, who, like everyone, expect to see their

homes, the centre and its wonders live again.

L’Aquila, which does not give in

Province: Chieti

Altitude: 330 m asl

Inhabitants: 53,937

Tourist information:

Abruzzo Promozione Turismo – Chieti

Via Spaventa, 47

Tel. +39 0871 63640

www.abruzzoturismo.it

Above: the Cathedral of Chieti.

69

«On the trail of the wolf and the bearA symbol of the Abruzzo, Latim and Molise National Park, the

Marsican Brown Bear (Ursus arctos marsicanus) is a subspe-

cies that is genetically differentiated from bears in the Alps and

only live in central Italy. The latest research estimates that in

the park and surrounding areas there is a population of about

55-60 representatives of the species. It is very difficult to find

these specimens, which are between 100 and 150 kg (females

are slightly smaller) with a length which ranges from a me-

tre and a half to well over 2 metres. Each specimen can live

for more than twenty years in the forests of Abruzzo, where

they find peace and food, but also move to the highest-altitude

grasslands in different seasons, looking for a dry and safe place

to spend the winter months: the bear, in fact, when the cold

arrives falls into a partial lethargy, that allows it to cope with

low temperatures and the absence of food, but also to exit the

lair on sunny days.

Another important species, but not exclusive to the Abruz-

zo National Park, is the Apennine Wolf (Canis lupus lupus),

one of the most persecuted animals and severely threatened

with extinction. It can live alone or in small packs, hierarchi-

cally organized, and moves continuously showing great skill

in escaping hidden dangers as well as seeking its prey which

are mostly small animals, in the mild season, and ungulates

during winter. The wolf is also a very difficult animal to spot:

with mainly nocturnal habits, during the day it takes refuge in

the most wild and inaccessible parts of the forest.

The signs of its presence that are the easiest to find in the ter-

ritory are the tracks which are very similar to those of a lar-

ge dog, but arranged in a single row. Among the fauna of the

Park we certainly must not forget the native Abruzzo Cha-mois (Rupicapra pyrenaica ornata), with about 700 specimens

in the Park. It is by far the easiest protected animal to come

across, and must be observed in total silence to avoid it from

becoming frightened and fleeing. It is a herbivore, common

in grasslands at high altitudes, which descends the valley and

enters the woods in winter. In the Park it lives in the Camo-

sciara mountains (the name of the place is reminiscent of the

animal population), on Monte Meta, Mainarde, Monte Amaro,

Monte Marsicano and the mountains that surround the Can-

neto valley. The same for the deer (Cervus elaphus hippelaphus)

and the roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) almost completely di-

sappeared from the park until the Seventies, when they were

reintroduced.

To better enjoy the experience of observing these animals, Visi-

tor Centres are open to the public and are almost always com-

bined with wildlife areas, areas of fenced land in which the

animals live in a state of semi-freedom. The main function of

these areas is scientific, but they also have an important edu-

cational role: here it is possible to see those species that would

be difficult to see in the wild, without disturbing them. These

areas include the Pescasseroli wildlife park, the wildlife areas

of the wolf and lynx in Civitella Alfedena, the wildlife areas

of the bear in Villavallelonga and Campoli Appenninico,

those of the deer in Lecce dei Marsi and Scanno and that of

the chamois in Opi.

Above: an Apennine wolf. On the left: a Marsican brown bear.

70

CampaniaThe ancient Romans gave the name

Campania Felix to the prosperous

area of the city of Capua and the

neighbouring municipalities, which

extends from Monte Massico to the Phlegraean

Fields. Today, the area around the city of Naples,

Caserta, Benevento, Avellino and Salerno, still

looks like an area extremely rich in culture, the

raw material which in the course of history, from

then until the present day, has never abandoned

this coast on the Tyrrhenian Sea. A culture

that combines in a harmonious and lively way

with the wonders of nature: the Amalfi Coast,

Cilento and the many other places to discover!

The wonderful treasures of a Terra Felix

CAMPANIA

71

The city of Naples, according to the legend was founded by a

Greek girl named Parthenope, and is undoubtedly an extraor-

dinary balcony over the gulf that bears its name. A gulf and

a coastline that offer tourists archaeological sites all over the

territory, spas on the island of Ischia, in Castellammare di Sta-

bia or on the Phlegrean coast, but also wild nature parks (Ve-

suvius and Astroni), the glamour of Capri and its little square,

underwater archaeological sites such as Baia and Gaiola and

the beauty of the Amalfi Coast. Cultural tourism coexists with

beach tourism: bays, coves and isolated beaches, but also pri-

vate sailing and cruise ships!

Vesuvius keeps a silent vigil over this landscape, mindful of the

destruction in 79 AD which led it to the elimination, with its

eruption, of the towns of Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabia,

today archaeological sites (UNESCO heritage) unique in the

world due to the extraordinary conservation of the finds and of

the structures immobilised by the eruptive force in the last dra-

matic hours of their life. To add to the cultural weight of these

areas, Campania by the sea has the good food of the Mediter-

ranean tradition, the friendliness, the warmth and kindness of

the people, to complete a classic “Italian style” holiday.

Going north, the province of Caserta is ideally divided into

three big areas by the great cultural, folklore and especially

morphological variety: mountain massifs such as the Matese

or the Preapennines alternate with the plains, overlooking

the sea in Litorale Domizio, so named because of the Via

Domitiana that ran through the area at the time of the ancient

Romans. These 45 kilometres of wide and sandy coast are

covered with a varied Mediterranean vegetation that creates

beautiful ecosystems. To join the sea, culture and art, a must

is a visit to the Reggia di Caserta, the nineteenth-century

historical residence of the royal house of Bourbon (now in-

cluded on the UNESCO heritage list), surrounded by a large

park divided into an Italian garden, with its many fountains

among which the famous Grande Cascata, and an English gar-

den with thick woods and a less regular appearance. Called

“the last Baroque building in Italy”, it is home to the Appar-

tamenti Vecchi (Old Apartments), the Appartamenti Nuovi

(New Apartments), all furnished with original furniture, and

the precious Quadreria.

Going down the coast south of Naples, the area around Saler-

no is an authentic place of beautiful landscapes (from Cilen-

to to Vallo di Diano), tasty food and wine tours, yet unique

archaeological sites (Paestum, for example) and the famous

Costiera Amalfitana, a stretch of coast, also known as “Divi-

na Costiera” (Divine Coast), a popular area for international

beach tourism. Also the Costiera, with Amalfi, Atrani, Cetara,

Conca de Marini, Furore, Maiori, Minori, Positano, Praiano,

Ravello, Scala, Tramonti and Vietri sul Mare belongs to the

UNESCO World Heritage Sites: you can not miss the stair-

case of the spectacular Amalfi Cathedral, a walk through the

colourful streets and clothes shops of Positano with the new

Auditorium designed in 2012 by the late Brazilian architect

Oscar Niemeyer.

In the shadow of Vesuvius,

a past and present

on the seashore

Opposite page: Castel dell’Ovo and the small harbour

of Santa Lucia, in Naples. This page, clockwise from the left:

Vesuvius; a bay along the Amalfi Coast; a street in Pompeii.

72

«

Above: Piazza del Plebiscito with the church of San Francesco di Paola.

Naples, a concentration of

culture, sea and energy

Province: Naples

Altitude: 17 m asl

Inhabitants: 957 012

Tourist information

Azienda Autonoma di Soggiorno, Cura e Turismo

Via San Carlo, 9 - Tel. +39 081 402394

Piazza del Gesù - Tel. +39 081 5512701 - www.inaples.it

Capital of the Bourbon Kingdom, one of the largest historical

centres among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, home of

the pizza: Naples is not only a metropolis, but also one of the

centres with the highest density of monuments in Italy and

one of the largest reserves of popular traditions.

To discover it you can follow the historical trail, moving

around the town in the footsteps of the Greeks and Romans

(the Greek walls of Piazza Cavour, the ancient theatre on via

dell’Anticaglia, just off the bustling Via Duomo, the “Palazzo di

Nerone” decorated with the application of Roman remains, the

paleochristian basilica and baptistery of Santa Restituta, now

incorporated into the Cathedral, the Greek agorà and then the

Roman forum of Neapolis in Piazza San Gaetano, the excava-

tions under San Lorenzo Maggiore, the Greek walls in Piazza

Bellini that ended in the current Piazza San Domenico, domi-

nated by the central spire, and in piazza Trianon) or following

the traces of the Middle Ages (from 1266, Charles I of Anjou

made Naples the capital of his kingdom, bringing to the city

the artistic infl uences of French Gothic, as in the chapel of San

Gennaro, or the spire of Santa Maria Maggiore) or following

the ideals of the Renaissance or still discovering the signs of

the Baroque and Rococò (Spanish rule in Naples gave it its

current face, like the silver statues of the Treasure of San Genn-

aro in the Cathedral, the exuberant character of the Neapoli-

tan Baroque, while the anti-Baroque Austrian rule brought the

“gooseneck” stairs, large tiled fl oors and nativity shepherds, of

marked rococo style).

Anyone who loves the past and literature can go up the hill

that separates Mergellina from Fuorigrotta, next to the ancient

tuff caves: here visitors can admire the tomb of Virgil, en-

riched with Roman inscriptions dated 1930, and the tomb of the poet Giacomo Leopardi, who died in Naples in 1837.

Or you can experience Naples as a tourist, to marvel at the

most famous places: Piazza del Plebiscito, Palazzo Reale,

A typical Neapolitan dessert

for the Easter period, but now available all year round, the

pastiera is a cake of crispy shortcrust pastry stuffed with soft

ricotta, candied fruit, sugar, eggs and wheat boiled in milk.

The smell and flavour change depending on the spices and

aromas: the classics are cinnamon, orange peel and vanilla.

According to the legend, the siren Partenope was exceptional

at cooking this delicacy and perhaps has its origins in pagan

offerings: the priestesses of Ceres, in particular, carried eggs

in procession, a symbol of birth.

Neapolitan tradition at the table

Castel dell’Ovo and the Maschio Angioino, the Teatro San Carlo, the Cathedral with the relics of San Gennaro and the

Cloister of Santa Chiara.

Some people like to “live” Naples and exploring the neighbour-

hoods is the best way to get into the everyday life of the city:

Spaccanapoli, via San Gregorio Armeno (with the work-

shops of traditional nativity scenes open all year round), the

promenade of via Caracciolo.

Finally, just a few kilometres out of the city you can reach the

gardens and the Reggia di Capodimonte, with the homon-

ymous National Gallery and the eighteenth-century “Royal

Porcelain Factory” which produced the famous ceramics prized

pieces branded with the Bourbon lily.

73

Above: the famous Piazzetta in Capri. Below from left to right: a spa pool

in Ischia and, in the background, the Castle of Ischia.

Islands of beauty and wellbeing

stances. Depending on their composition, they are a healing

remedy for many diseases. Mineral baths and spas, ozone ther-

apy, showers, mud treatments, turkish baths and underwater

massages are also available for those who want a holiday in

which to “disconnect” and laze in front of landscapes with an

incredible variety of blue tones. The climate and the extraordi-

nary variety of the island’s vegetation complement the health

benefits by helping the body and mind to regenerate.

The thermal waters of Ischia have been known since ancient

times and are mentioned by Homer in the Iliad, the Aeneid by

Virgil and many famous ancients such as Pliny and Strabo: in

fact, in the imperial age the baths became a habitual place to

visit by the Roman society and it was at that time that the is-

land’s many natural sources were exploited to create the first

public spas. The rest is history: 69 Fumarole groups and 29

thermal spring groups, more than 55 hotels with an internal

spa centre, 7 thermal parks with swimming pools at different

temperatures and exotic vegetation, 6 island municipalities

offering services and facilities, and four free natural springs.

There really is something for every taste!

To complete the tour of beauty, all that’s missing is the visit to

the island of Procida, also of volcanic nature, less “organized”

than the others, but more geared towards direct contact be-

tween man and vegetation. In a context of modern accommo-

dation facilities, but always in compliance with the winning

combination of culture and nature.

The island of Capri is an essential stage for summer holidays

in Campania. The jewel of the Gulf of Naples, in fact, has

a unique beauty that has inspired and continues to inspire

artists, film directors and poets: the deep green of the lush

natural surroundings envelops the steep cliffs overlooking

the crystal clear sea, flowing into beautiful caves, dominated

by mighty cliffs and coloured by olive, orange and lemon tree

groves. Among the caves, the Grotta Azzurra is undoubtedly

best known for the different colours taken by its walls and

its water during the day. La Piazzetta is the ultimate in so-

phistication.

If you want to add an element of relaxation and well-being

to a beach vacation, you just have to move from Capri to

Ischia, a large island with wide sandy beaches that leave

space for isolated cliffs and lesser known beaches, accessible

only by sea. Its volcanic nature makes Ischia one of the larg-

est spa centres in Europe: there are springs, fumaroles and

mud throughout the territory, such that almost every accom-

modation structure has at least one thermal pool. The island

also offers equipped and skilled centres, centres of scientific

research on the benefits of thermal waters and sophisticated

technology for any type of therapy.

Ischia’s thermal waters are alkaline, containing sulphur, iodine,

chlorine, iron, potassium and trace elements of active sub-

74

Puglia

APULIA

A sea with bright colours in an

incredible variety of shades, a

sea that marks a boundary. Two

extremely different seas meet at the

heel of Italy: the Adriatic Sea is sandy, shallow and

light blue while the Ionian Sea is rocky, with deep

seabed and an intense shade of blue. Some people

say that in Santa Maria di Leuca they have seen

the clear dividing line between the two seas. What

is certain is that the view over the two different

basins is breathtaking: the prickly pears add a

splash of green and orange to the rocks washed

by the sea; the wind causes the waves to break on

the rocks and leaves the sand perfectly smooth;

the region offers a unique combination of unspoilt

beach es and a lively nightlife. Welcome to Apulia!

One land, two seas, a thousand

splendours

Apulia is the easternmost region of Italy and, with about 800

kilometres of coastline, it is the region with the longest coast: the

shores of Apulia alternate between rocky stretches of coast (such

as the Gargano), cliffs and long stretches of sandy beaches (such

as in Salento, the Gulf of Taranto and the Bari area). More than

98% of the coast is suitable for swimming and the crystal clear

waters have led it to be known  as the “Maldive islands of Italy”.

Inland Apulia offers endless rugged landscapes with fascinating

colours: the Tavoliere delle Puglie, which has a surface area

of 3,000 square kilometres, is the second largest plain in Italian

after the Padanian plain, the Murge, a limestone plateau that

lies between the Tavoliere and Salento, the Valley of Itria, with

the highest concentration of trulli (the traditional round stone

houses with conical roofs). Lastly, there are the islands, tiny

paradises of unspoilt nature and clear blue water.

In summer Apulia is a byword for “seaside holidays” with all

the various differences in landscape and a wide range of tourist

accommodation and facilities. The Tremiti Islands (San Domino, San Nicola and Capraia, as well as the uninhabited island of

Pianosa and the islet of Cretaccio) have an indented coastline full

of caves and are protected as a marine nature reserve. The largest

island is San Domino, the heart of tourism in the Archipelago,

which includes Cala delle Arene, the only sandy beach. San

Nicola has an atmosphere coloured by history and antiquity with

Neolithic sites, Greek tombs, the abbey of Santa Maria a Mare

(don’t miss the mosaic floor and the walls) and the fortifications

built during its transformation into a penal colony.

Not far away, the marvellous spur of the Gargano with the

picturesque towns and villages of Mattinata, Peschici, Rodi Garganico, Manfredonia and Vieste. Peschici is characterised by

the traditional trabucchi, structures made of wooden poles which are

intertwined with ropes and pulleys and used for fishing: by lowering

a large sack-like net into the sea, the operators of these structures

(trabucchisti) activate a mechanism and imprison shoals of fish. The

trabucchi can also be seen at Vieste, but the town is dominated by

Pizzomunno, a monolith of about 25 metres linked to the legend of a

tall strong young man in love with the beautiful Cristalda: each day

he would venture out to sea harassed in vain by the Sirens who, out

of jealousy, took the young girl to the seabed. The following day, the

fishermen found that he had turned to stone as a result of his grief

and transformed into the rock that bears his name.

The landscape of Salento is completely different and alternates

between long golden sandy beaches and imposing cliffs with

sheer drops down to the sea. Overlooking two seas, Salento is an

amazing tourist destination that boasts authentic features; these

range from glamorous lidos, where holiday-makers can enjoy

aperitifs on deck-chairs in the sea at sunset or dance all night

on the seashore, to large protected pine forests with emblematic

names such as Porto Selvaggio. The entire coastline is dominated

by fifteenth century watchtowers which survey the sea: there are

12 in the province of Brindisi, 17 in the province of Taranto and

as many as 57 in the province of Lecce. The inland areas close

to the coast are dotted with large farmhouse complexes which

used to be fortified and are now used as holiday farmhouses and

high quality tourist accommodation. The architectural landscape

overlooking the sea resembles Greece due to the predominance

of white flat-roofed houses with terraces, while the towns and

cities bear the clear imprint of the Baroque style of Lecce. The

true maritime capitals are Gallipoli, on the Ionian Sea, and

Otranto, on the Adriatic. The undisputed capital in terms of

historical monuments and art is Lecce.

Opposite page: the beach of Mattinata. Above from left to right:

the trulli of Alberobello; an expanse of vineyards near Mattinata;

the ramparts of Otranto. Below: the coast of Vieste.

Sun, sea and wind

««

Lecce the cultural capital of the Baroque

Province: Lecce

Altitude: 49 m asl

Inhabitants: 96,274

Tourist information:

Informazioni Accoglienza Turistica Lecce

via Vittorio Emanuele, 24

Tel. +39 0832 248092

www.viaggiareinpuglia.it

heart of the city, together with the “fashionable meeting place” of

Piazza Sant’Oronzo, is piazza del Duomo. The square is wide,

spacious, clean and enhanced by the elegance and sophistication

of the false baroque façade of the gleaming white cathedral,

situated next to the elaborate bell tower recently restored to its

original splendour thanks to careful restoration work. The original

façade, the entrance to the cathedral, is situated on a side of the

building that is less visible.

The most extraordinary landmark of the city is the Church of Santa Croce, with its incredible façade dominated by a rose

window and the meticulous formal decoration which illustrates

how the Lecce Baroque manages to lighten the seventeenth

century style and make it less ostentatious. The same impression

continues inside the building where the altars are laden with

elegantly carved fl owers, fruit and characters, supported by

spiral columns, but sensitively accompanied by exquisite

workmanship and colouring.

Before entering one of the traditional restaurants or one of

the many fashionable pubs (easily recognisable from the

crowd of young people thronging the streets of the historic

centre), it is worth walking round the city. Follow the city

walls and admire the gateways which were named after their

orientation or role: Porta Napoli, or “Triumphal Arch”, built in

1548 in honour of Charles V to thank him for the fortifi cations

defending the city; Porta Rudiae, which takes its name from

the ancient Messapian city whose fi rst centre was situated in

this area; Porta San Biagio, built on the ruins of an ancient

tower and protected by the statue of the saint from which the

gate takes its name. After completing the tour, the next step is

to explore Lecce’s local products: besides the workshops that

make prestigious objects from the local sandstone, the city is

also renowned for its papier mâché workshops, a traditional

craft of Lecce which leads to quite extraordinary creations; in

this case too, artisans fashion unique objects of all kinds and

sizes, with both sacred themes (the Virgin Mary or the Nativity)

and secular themes (trades and traditional fi gures). A fi tting

conclusion to this brief tour of the city, which is best explored

without a street map but by getting lost in the stone-paved

streets of the historic centre, is the discovery of local culinary

specialities: an excellent local pastry called pasticciotto provides

a sweet conclusion to the trip. Made from baked shortcrust

pastry fi lled with confectioner’s custard: this is another way to

fall in love with the city!

Lecce lies in the heart of the Salento, the ancient prehistoric city

of the Messapians, later a civis romana and then an important

city during each subsequent period until the full baroque period

whose splendour is still evident. The city is highly stratifi ed into

historical periods which all have one common element: the use

of the local sandstone (pietra leccese) which was widely available

locally, easy to work and beautiful to behold. Dominated by the

29 metre high statue of the patron saint Orontius (Sant’Oronzo),

the main square is highly distinctive by virtue of the ruins of the

Roman Amphiteatre which was brought to light and enhanced

so that it now hosts numerous dance and theatre festivals. The

Above: the rose window of the church of Santa Croce. Below: the Cathedral.

77

Village fairs and festivals with the rhythm of the pizzica

commemorates the expulsion of the Saracens and the accession of

the Angevins. On the 26th August, each year, a special event is held

in the bright white town of Ostuni to celebrate the patron saint

Orontius. The celebrations involve the “Cavalcata”, a procession

of horses and riders dressed up in red. The festival of St Oronzo

is the most important festival held in the area; all the towns and

villages in the area celebrate the patron saint in their own way, as

in Turi. Here the saint’s martyrdom is recalled beginning with a

procession from the cave where, according to legend, the bishop

celebrated mass. The main feature of the procession is the gigantic

triumphal chariot pulled by six mules.

The list of religious and secular celebrations, featuring folklore,

traditional foods and lively music, is endless. Each town and village in

Apulia offers events of this kind: visitors just need to discover them to

enliven the evenings of a “seaside” holiday with a touch of tradition!

Of all the local events, the most famous is the Notte della Taranta (Night of Tarantula), which draws tens of thousands

of fans of the pizzica to Melpignano in August (120,000 visitors

in 2012). It is the wonderful final evening of a travelling festival

which involves numerous towns in the region throughout the

summer with its music.

People dance the pizzica, a traditional dance with ancient origins

(records of it go back to the fourteenth century) which is typical

of Salento, but also of the area of Matera in Basilicata, the Cilento

in Campania and certain areas of Sicily. The dance belongs to the

family of the tarantelle, linked to the curative practices of tarantism

but essentially a joyful dance to be performed during celebrations

and convivial moments. Traditional accompaniments are the

handkerchief or the shawl, essential accessories in the clothing

of the past, which were waved during dances to invite the chosen

partner: they were therefore not meant to be a token of love but

were simply a way of enlivening the dance.

Food festivals also multiply in summer almost as fast as the incessant

rhythm of the pizzica: they range from the Sagra della Pittula (held

in many local towns and villages), devoted to savoury or sweet fried

balls of dough to the Sagra te la Carne alla Turca (Festival of Meat in

the Turkish Style), held in Surano in early August, a celebration of

the traditional dish of oriental origin – extremely spicy pork – and the

“Nettare dei pizzicati”, a liqueur made from “murtheddrha” (myrtle

berries) from the hills of Salento, known as “Serre salentine”. Other

festivals include the Sagra ti lu purpu (Octopus festival), Sagra te la purpetta (Meatball festival) and the much more recently established

festival called Birra&Sound, held in Leverano. The pizzica also has a

more “warlike” version which is extremely fascinating: the Danza delle Spade (The Dance of the Swords). In Torrepaduli, on the mid-

August holiday, a dance is performed to the insistent rhythm of

the tambourine by pairs of male dancers who simulate a duel by

dancing and challenging each other with their arms.

In July, in Taranto, the famous Palio comes to an end. This palio

is an event performed in period costume with the two races of

rowing boats linked to their respective city districts. Another event

in which the protagonists wear period costume is held in Oria,

in the second week of August, to commemorate the arrival of

Federick II of Swabia in 1225: after the medieval procession, the

races between the four districts are held. On the third Saturday in

June, in Fasano, “La Scamiciata” is staged. It features a historical

commemoration of the victory over the Turks in 1678 beneath

the city walls while another festival held in Lucera in August

The “black souls” of ApuliaPrimitivo di Manduria Doc and Negramaro: these dark red wines

are the “black souls” of Apulia. The first wine takes its name from

the fact that the Primitivo grapes ripen very early. It was originally

made in the Ionian-Salentine coastal regions, although it later spre-

ad to the Murge and the areas of Taranto and Bari. The Primitivo

grape was first cultivated intensively by Benedictine monks in the

twelfth century in the area of Gioia del Colle; throughout Apulia,

Primitivo is made in many different versions: table wine, amabile

(sweet), and in two liqueur-like versions, one dryer and one sweeter

(liquoroso secco and liquoroso dolce). Negramaro is a very different

red wine, grown almost exclusively in

Salento. The origin of the name is linked

simply to the repetition of the word nero

(black) in two languages: niger (in Latin)

and mavros (in ancient Greek). It is par-

ticularly well-suited to making rosé wi-

nes and, as a consequence, the most wi-

despread DOC wine is Salice Salentino.

Above: a moment during the Night of Tarantula.

78

CalabriaWhoever chooses Calabria for their

holidays does so for its 800 kilometres

of beaches. A fortunate choice,

considering how variegated these

coastlines are, from lively, well organized bathing

establishments to remote beaches immersed in wild

natural surroundings. Even the morphology of the

coastline lends itself to those seeking variety, with

fi ne sandy beaches and rocky stretches at just a

short distance from each other. The inland areas,

on the other hand, offer marvellous mountainous

landscapes and trekking itineraries that follow in the

footsteps of the Sila brigands and fauna, wolves fi rst

and foremost. And what about the local cuisine,

which adds colour and fl avour to every landscape,

together with history and archaeology, giving the

toe of the Italian boot the aura of a glorious past.

The toe of the bootCALABRIA

79

Washed by the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west and the Ionian Sea

to the east, Calabria opens up on its north-eastern side to the

Gulf of Taranto and is delimited towards the south-west by the

Straits of Messina, which separate Punta Pezzo from the Si-

cilian coast by just 3.2 km. In the course of history, the Straits

of Messina themselves have actually inspired the myths and

legends that confer charm to the magical scenario of these lo-

cations: the fi rst stories date back to Homer who tells of Ulys-

ses challenging the two terrifying monsters, Scylla and Cha-rybdis, standing respectively on the Calabrian and Sicilian

shores. Not surprising really, if we consider that the turbulent

currents of the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas meet and collide at

the exact point where the straits are narrowest, to create sud-

den and unexpected whirlpools, which were certainly treache-

rous for the seafarers of ancient times. There is no doubt that

the seabeds of the Straits represent an authentic paradise for

scuba divers: the submerged mountains of Scilla are in fact car-

peted with expanses of yellow-red and orange Gorgonian sea

fans; the depths around Reggio and Capo d’Armi, on the other

hand, are sandier but inhabited by a unique marine fauna.

A phenomenon still visible in the Straits is that of the Mor-gana Fairy which, in certain weather conditions, makes the

shadows and refl ections of Messina’s houses and lights stretch

over the water to join those of Reggio Calabria, creating the

sensation of being able to see one single immense city. Legend

has it that, during the Barbarian invasions, in August, a bar-

barian king arrived in Reggio Calabria and, wondering how to

reach Sicily, was tricked by the Morgana Fairy who made the

island appear a few steps away from the king. Under the illu-

sion that he could reach it by swimming a few strokes, he was

drowned and perished in the sea.

The nearby Capo Vaticano, with its magical headland looking

out over the Tyrrhenian Sea, owes its name to the Latin word

Vaticinium, meaning “oracle”, since legend has it that its extre-

me tip is inhabited by the prophetess Manto. Sailors would vi-

sit her before venturing out into the whirlpools of Scylla and

Charybdis, and Ulysses himself, once he had escaped the trea-

cherous rocks, consulted Manto as to the favourable outcome

of the journey ahead. Beaches of fi ne white sand, washed by

crystal-clear water, extend under the headland. One of the most

charming beaches is that of Torre Ruffa, where Donna Canfora,

kidnapped by Saracens, threw herself into the sea crying: “The

women of this land prefer death to dishonour!” To honour her

sacrifi ce, the sea changes colour every hour to recall the shades

of the veil the woman wore while the echo of the breaking wa-

ves would be nothing but the tormenting lament with which

Donna Canfora greets her beloved land every night.

Last but not least, there is Sibari, a legendary Greek colony

which was renowned for the luxurious and dissolute ways of

its inhabitants. All that remains of its splendour are the fan-

tastic tales of an inaccessible and dissipated lifestyle, as well

as a few ruins of the old city: the remains of houses in the

area known as Parco del Cavallo and a sanctuary dedicated to

Athena close to the station, where the Archaeological Museum of the area of Sibari also stands. And this account could go on to

include many more locations, because every corner of Calabria

conceals an extraordinary myth.

Midst ancient mythology

and legends

Opposite page: the coast of Scilla at

sunset. Above from the left: a craftsman at

work; a view of Palizzi; ruins of the Greek

theatre of Sibari (ancient Sybaris);

the beach of Capo Vaticano.

The unchallenged king of Calabria’s cuisine is the hot chil-

li pepper. Belonging to the same family as the sweet pepper

(Capsicum – Solanacee), its Latin name derives from the

form of the fruit, which recalls a “capsule”, or box, safeguar-

ding the seeds. Some believe that its name comes from the

Greek word kapto, meaning to bite, an obvious allusion to the

piquant taste it leaves on the tongue when eaten. In actual fact,

it can be eaten in all sorts of ways, and this is particularly true

in Calabria: cooked or raw, it fi nds its way into any type of

sauce, meat or salami specialities, such as the famous ‘nduja

(a salami mixture whose bright red-orange colour depends on

the great quantity of hot pep-

per it contains) or spianata

(a type of hard sausage meat

of the same bright colour).

His majesty the hot chilli pepper

80

«Province: Reggio CalabriaAltitude: 31 m aslInhabitants: 186,503Tourist information:

Tourist BureauVia Fata Morgana, 13

Tel. +39 0965 324822

http://turismo.reggiocal.it

Reggio Calabria The city that was built twice

dal wave. Consequently, the extremely elongated Real Palazzina

(Royal Palace) was rebuilt with its endless series of elegant Na-

poleonic buildings looking onto the seafront, together with the

impressive St. George’s Palace (the town hall), the elegant Villa

Genoese-Zerbi which is the most prestigious example of seven-

teenth century Baroque in this city, many churches and basilicas,

including the lavishly decorated Baroque Cathedral (the largest

religious construction in the region), the most ancient Byzantine

basilica of the Catholic church of eastern rite, the monumental

fountains on the seafront and a great number of impressive pu-

blic and private buildings. Gabriele D’Annunzio described the

town’s seafront as “the fi nest kilometre in Italy”: it is actually

much longer than one kilometre, since it occupies the coastal

area comprised between the port and the Maritime Fort and is

often referred to as “via Marina”. Here the numerous Art Nou-

veau buildings contribute to the elegance of this promenade,

embellished by stretches of Greek city walls and a Roman spa

complex, as well as monumental fountains and memorials. If

you stand right here and look towards Sicily, you might just ex-

perience the mirage of the Morgana Fairy.

The Riace Bronze Warriors are the indisputable symbol of

this city: the two Greek statues were accidentally discovered

on 16 August 1972 in the water of Riace Marina, at approxi-

mately 300 metres from the coast at a depth of about 8 metres,

together with fragments of an ancient vessel dating back to

the Roman-Byzantine age; having undergone various restora-

tive operations, they are housed temporarily at Palazzo Cam-

panella, the Regional administrative headquarters, where they

have been transferred because of renovation work in course at

the National Museum of Magna Graecia in Reggio Calabria,

which is their permanent exhibition seat.

This museum, which boasts exhibits such as the famous Phi-

losopher’s Head and the Dioscuri group of statues, is just one

of many reasons for visiting Reggio Calabria. Another is the

impressive and majestic Aragonese Castle, probably erected

in the VI century on a pre-existing fortifi cation, whose history

refl ects that of this city: when in 1039, Reggio fell under the

dominion of the Normans, led by Robert Guiscard, the castle

was extended to include a donjon, the fortress tower leaning

against the walls which housed the troops entrusted with the

city’s defence; the rest of the building, however, dates back to

the Suevian period: an impressive construction with a square

layout and four square-shaped angular towers. It was resto-

red several times during the Aragonese and Angevin wars, in

a style that earned it the attribute of “Aragonese”, with the ad-

dition of a ravelin, until the eighteenth century when Charles

III of Bourbon ordered its conversion into barracks. The history

of the castle goes hand in hand with that of the city, its various

dominions and its development.

However, two catastrophic events have led Reggio to being

almost totally rebuilt: the 1783 earthquake and the catastro-

phic quake of Messina and Reggio, which razed the city to the

ground in 1908 and destroyed the coastal areas with a terrible ti-

This page: two views of the seafront of Reggio Calabria overlooking the Straits of Messina.

81

The sea beloved by the gods

The coasts of Calabria have fascinating names, associated with

their distinctive vegetation or the history that has passed throu-

gh and transformed them in the course of time. In this respect

a particularly significant name is the Costa degli Dei (Coast of

the Gods) or “Costa Bella” around Vibo Valentia. Beautiful, wi-

thout a doubt, with its fascinating views, the little white coves

that may only be reached by boat or on foot, the Aeolian Islan-

ds and the volcanic island of Stromboli, all of which are just a

short distance away. “Of the gods” because, with its transparent

water and luscious seabeds, it evokes dreamlike landscapes and

paradisiacal dives. Certainly not to be missed is Tropea, one of

the most popular locations in Calabria for national and interna-

tional tourists, offering as many as twelve churches and a blue

grotto, a summer bluefish festival and plaited red onions han-

ging from its windows (the red onion of Tropea, of unmistaka-

ble sweetness, has been awarded with a quality trademark). The

charming beaches and crystal clear sea, whose depths teem with

fish, make Capo Vaticano another mandatory stop, along with

the fascinating inland area offering typical specialities such as

the “Nduja di Spilinga” and “Pecorino del Poro”. Then comes Pizzo Calabro, a seaside resort and fishing port perched high above

the sea which owes its fame to the Castle of Joachim Murat,

the husband of Caroline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s sister, who was

tricked into coming to Calabria and shot without a blindfold.

The home-made ice-creams of Pizzo are well known in the area.

And how can you miss a visit to Parghelia, with its Pizzuta, so

called because of the granitic pinnacles emerging from the sea,

or Zambrone, with beaches that recall those of the Tropics and

the Scoglio della Galea (Galea Rock), abounding in cavities

and hollows inhabited by marine fauna of all types.

Looking onto the Ionian sea, the Costa dei Saraceni (Sara-

cens’ Coast) presents a completely different scenario with its

wild landscape and eventful history. It extends between Cariati

and the hills of the Marquisate of Crotone, with a variegated

morphology of alternating wide and narrow gulfs. There are

some extremely vast areas close to the shore, which present lush

Mediterranean vegetation and pinewoods, where new tourist

accommodation facilities of considerable dimensions and ele-

vated standards have found an ideal setting without modifying

the general aspect of the area. The entire zone is comprised in

the Marine Reserve of Capo Rizzuto, 40 hectares of Mediterrane-

an maquis with a strictly regulated system to safeguard the sea

depths and the numerous species living there. Moreover, the en-

tire coast is a haven of Greek, medieval and Byzantine archaeo-

logical remains. For instance, Cirò Marina’s origins, the ancient

town of Krimisa, are Greek. Now it is one of the main seaside

resorts on the Ionian coast of Calabria.

The bathing area of the Municipality of Crotone extends to the

south of the port as far as the headland of Capo Colonna, an

archaeological site of great interest, symbolized by the solita-

ry column rising up over the sea and which gives its name to

the promontory. Capo Colonna, Capo Cimiti, Capo Rizzuto and

Punta Le Castella are the most popular tourist spots on the Sa-

racens’ Coast.

Now it is up to you to explore these coasts steeped in history, or

others that take the names of Riviera dei Cedri (Riviera of ci-

tron trees) and Costa Viola (Violet Coast), on the Tyrrhenian co-

ast, and Riviera degli Aranci (Riviera of Oranges), Costa degli Aranci (Coast of Oranges) and Costa dei Gelsomini (Jasmine

Coast), on the Ionian coast. Coastlines in which sea, beaches and

vegetation combine to create a truly divine landscape.

Above from left to right: the face of one of the Riace Bronze Warriors; a bay in the marine nature reserve of Capo Rizzuto. Below: the beach of Tropea.

82

SiciliaThe island on which the sun shines

SICILY

The largest island in the

Mediterranean, the cradle of history,

which holds some of the best preserved

archaeological sites in the world and

six UNESCO World Heritage sites. A destination

for lovers of the sea and culture, Sicily, with the

archipelago of small islands that fl ank it, is a world

to discover. The ancient Trinacria, land of Greek

colonization, of Roman Empire, through the Islamic

and Norman eras and the Angevin, Aragonese and

Bourbon rules, shows all these traces in its beautiful

scenery: because Sicily is a land of culture, but it

is also a land of sun, beaches, sea, volcanoes and

environments that always leave you speechless.

83

You have to go to Sicily to see most of the active Italian vol-

canoes, the highest of which is Mount Etna with its 3330 m.

In addition to the volcano that dominates Catania, there’s a

whole arc of volcanic islands still in full activity: these are the

Aeolian Islands, also known as “Lipari”, places not only for

tourism, but also of great geological interest.

Lipari, the largest of the archipelago, is the emerged portion

of a large volcanic structure with a height of approximately

1500 m that starts at just under 1000 m below sea level. The

oldest rocks of the island are more than 200,000 years old and

between them open fumaroles and hot springs with water

temperatures up to 90 ° C, a tangible sign of the vitality which

still stands below them. Just by walking along the paths of the

island you can see many outcrops that are nothing more than

the solidification of the eruptive material: transparent depo-

sits, with alternating light and dark bands, often with glassy

obsidian lava.

Instead, it is Vulcano that is the island with the most sugge-

stive name. The spur is composed of several volcanic systems:

in addition to the upper crater with fumaroles that are still

active, at the ends of the island there are platforms like Vul-

canello, whose lava has a different composition from that of

Vulcano due to the different depths of the magma. The visi-

tors who climb (there are guided tours, which are fully safe)

to the crater can enjoy a breathtaking view across the area of

the fumaroles which gives you a good understanding of how

the ancients could believe, without scientific explanation, that

in the bowels of the earth there was a forge for metalworking,

presided over by the god Hephaestus or Vulcan, who had an

short-temper. On the summit of Vulcano, tourists can admire

the marvellous Realgar crystals (red, with copper and arsenic),

white crystals of boron and the sulphur yellow ones. Then the-

re is the wonderful Stromboli, the last to emerge among the

Aeolian Islands (preceded by Strombolicchio, a small volcano

which is now only a rock in the sea), which is active, more or

less continuously, for at least 2000 years. An entirely specific

activity, which is called “Strombolian” and which consists of

almost continuous explosions with little waste being launched

from the eruptive vents: This is a unique show, with the five

mouths always active, and can be observed on walking excur-

sions day and night. Finally in Salina, from the small fishing

port of Rinella, located between twin volcanos, you can admi-

re the Monte Fossa delle Felci, the largest volcano which has

been inactive for more than 13,000 years, the only one with a

forest. The other islands of the Aeolian archipelago - Alicudi,

Filicudi, Panarea and Basiluzzo - also have volcanic origins:

this can be seen from the dark colour of the rocks overlooking

the sea, with a few coves accessible only by boat. An unconta-

minated spectacle.

Returning to the main island, and dominating the whole of

Sicily is Mount Etna, a volcanic structure that is grandiose in

size and in history, when you consider that its eruptive activity

began 500,000 years ago with the first submarine eruptions.

The coasts of Catania are a testimony of this activity: they are

characterized by the famous pillow lavas, so called because of

the concentric layers rounded by water and glazed, then wel-

ded together to form the famous lava floors such as the port

of Aci Castello, mentioned by Verga’s I Malavoglia. From about

100,000 years ago to now, the eruptive activity has moved: first

along the Ionian coast (with the occasional fissure eruption up

to the coast in the area called “delle Gole dell’Alcantara”), to-

day on the volcano called Ellittico, which constitutes the main

structure of Mount Etna. The ability to climb this active giant is

definitely a unique opportunity that close up shows the beauty

of untamed nature.

Where volcanoes reign

Opposite page: the Greek theatre of Taormina. Above: aerial view of Stromboli.

On the right: view of Acireale. Below: Stacks of Acitrezza at dawn.

84

«

Agrigento The “most beautiful city of mortals”

A symbol of the city of Agrigento today is the temple of Ca-stor and Pollux, the Dioscuri: today four beautiful columns

can be seen. The best preserved temple is undoubtedly the

temple of Concordia, located on the Via Sacra, which takes its

name from a Latin inscription found nearby.

Agrigento, of course, is not just the Valley of the Temples.

It is in fact one of the most beautiful cities in Sicily, with a

historic centre that recalls the vicissitudes experienced by

the various rulers.

There are four main churches that embellish the streets and

squares: inside the Santo Spirito Abbey, a complex that was

built in 1260 and consists of the church and the adjacent Ci-

stercian monastery, visitors can admire an explosion of eighte-

enth-century stucco on the walls and a magnifi cent wooden

To say “Agrigento” is to say “Valley of the Temples”: here are

the remains of the ancient Akragas which was founded in the

sixth century BC by colonists from Gela and which, in just one

hundred years, became, in the words of the poet Pindar, “the

most beautiful city of mortals”. Destroyed by the Carthagi-

nians, refounded and fallen with the Byzantines, the ancient

city was abandoned in the ninth century after the Arab con-

quest, when on the hill Gergent was born. Passing to the Nor-

mans, the city began to grow until the eighteenth century, with

embellishments of every style and era. But the valley remained

there, between meadows and almond trees in fl ower, such as

can be found today.

The temple of Juno Lacinia certainly lent itself, thanks to its

spectacular location on a cliff at the top of the hill, to celebrate

the cult of the goddess of fertility. There are fascinating traces

of fi re, still visible on the walls of the cell, recalling the Cartha-

ginian destruction in 406 BC.

Next to the temple, tourists can admire the altar for the sa-

crifi ces and the road rutted by the wheels of the wagons. The

famous Telamoni, giant statues of human form, instead popu-

late the temple of Olympian Zeus, built as a token of thanks

during the fi rst victory in 480 BC of the people of Agrigen-

to against the Carthaginians. As can be seen, it would not be

enough to protect the city from destruction. In the vicinity of

the Porta Aurea, to commemorate the fallen of the Second Pu-

nic War, the tomb of Theron was built, an imposing pyramid-

shaped monument made from tufa stone.

The temple of Heracles is the oldest of them all and housed

the bronze statue of Heracles (or Hercules). Destroyed by an

earthquake, today there are only eight columns. Also little re-

mains of the imposing temple of Vulcan; it was certainly built

to replace a small archaic temple found under the foundation.

Province: Agrigento

Altitude: 230 m asl

Inhabitants: 59,130

Tourist information:

Azienda Autonoma Provinciale

per l’Incremento Turistico

viale Della Vittoria, 255

Tel. +39 0922 401352

www.lavalledeitempli.eu

85

remarkable and richly painted wooden ceiling in the centre of

which the two-headed eagle of Carlo V is represented. Of great

importance is the Treasury of the Cathedral, which preserves

the Sarcophagus of Phaedra, a third century Roman marble

work inspired by the greek style.

Last but not least, the Church of San Lorenzo, also called

“the church of Purgatory”: the elegant baroque prospect leads,

inside, to eight female statues of Giuseppe and Giacomo Ser-

potta, representing the Virtues. Next to the church is the main

entrance to the ancient tombs, a network of underground

aqueducts from the fifth century BC that supplied Akragas, de-

signed by the architect Feace and known throughout Magna

Graecia.

caisson ceiling dated 1758, on which the coat of arms of the

Chiaramonte family is painted, who financed its construction.

The monastery, also known as “the Great Abbey” has precious

frescoes and a great quadrangular cloister with a number of

Gothic portals.

The church of Santa Maria dei Greci, in the oldest district of

the city, was built in the twelfth century on the base of a Doric

temple from the fifth century BC that some believe to be that

of Athena, on the acropolis of the ancient Akragas, accessible

from the left aisle. The San Gerlando Cathedral, from the ele-

venth century, in Norman-Gothic style, remodelled until the

seventeenth century, with its unfinished tower from the fifte-

enth century, is a synthesis of the city’s historical stages: the

The Almond from Noto, which has received the recognition of

the Slow Food organisation, is undoubtedly one of the “magic”

ingredients of Sicilian cooking, especially sweets. The three

varieties of “cultivar” almonds are the Romana, the Fascionel-

lo and the Pizzuta d’Avola and grow in the Val di Noto, in the

province of Syracuse. With almond flour and sugar they pro-

duce the famous Martorana Fruit, originally from Palermo,

also known as “royal paste”, “almond paste” or “marzipan”.

The fruit shape is given through the use of plaster moulds,

while the colour is obtained from food pigments.

These pages, clockwise from the left: the Cathedral; a moment during the flowering almond tree; the Temple of Castor and Pollux in the Valley of the Temples; the Temple of Concord.

Sweet Sicily

86

Corners of paradise in the blue

Sicily and its islands make up a true work of art born from

the synergy between the action of nature, myth and the work

of man. But of course the natural setting is the one that most

unites these islands in a corner of paradise.

The small Egadi archipelago, in the sea off Trapani and Mar-

sala, consists of three larger islands (Favignana, Levanzo and

Marettimo) and the small island of Formica. Not far from the

Sicilian coast (just 20 minutes by hydrofoil), they offer visi-

tors a trip based on simplicity, serenity and the peace of the

Trapani countryside: there are hotels, bed and breakfasts and

apartments, as well as quiet camping.

The islands are very different from each other: Favignana can

be defined as “for all the family”, while Levanzo has a “mi-

nimalist” charm and is famous for the Grotta del Genovese,

with graffiti more than 10,000 years old; Finally, Marettimo

is recommended for tourists who love trekking and enjoying

nature surrounded by the sea.

The Aeolian archipelago, the “volcanic” charm, provides a good

choice for lovers of nautical tourism: Lipari has three ports,

one for small boats (Marina Corta), one for ferries and hydro-

foils (Marina Lunga) and one for fishing boats (Pignataro). The

Aeolian Islands are called “the sisters of Hawaii” for their be-

auty and since Neolithic times were colonized to exploit the

obsidian, a volcanic glass conformation perfect for making ar-

rowheads and cutting tools.

Still in the area of sea that is part of Trapani, Pantelleria is

famous for the opportunity to spend a relaxing holiday in the

fresh “dammusi”, natural caves which have been expanded to

obtain living spaces: created in the tenth century, they have

very thick walls, roof dome and it is the thickness of the wall

that isolates the inside of the dwelling in order to self-regulate

the temperature.

Pantelleria, so close to the coast of Sicily but also that of Africa

(only 37 km away), offers exceptional natural sites, such as the

87

Montagna Grande and the volcan Monte Gibele (whose past

eruptions date back 9000 years), and incredible archaeological

sites, such as the abandoned village of Mueggen, the Bagno

Asciutto Grotto, used in ancient times as a sauna, and the Pho-

enician catacombs of Monastero. Or the Sesi, large tombs built

with huge blocks of lava stone, beside the ruins of an ancient

prehistoric coastal village.

Regarding volcanic sights there are the fascinating “favare”,

emissions of water vapour, and the “stufe” (stove), natural caves

with steam at high temperatures. Conversely, in the Grotta del

Freddo (Cold Grotto) the escape of cold air is assisted. There

are, of course, hot springs, such as those at Specchio di Venere

Lake (Mirror of Venus), with saline mineral waters. Excursions

on horseback or by boat are on the agenda to allow tourists to

discover unusual corners, otherwise unreachable.

Likewise very close to Africa, the Pelagie consist of Lampedu-

sa, Linosa and Lampione, three small black islands also of vol-

canic origin. Lampedusa is the favourite destination of those

who conceive the beach holiday as a total experience: a barren

limestone plateau washed with crystal clear waters to form a

basic landscape, no frills, with tropical fauna (it is not difficult,

on the seabed, to find parrotfish and triggerfish).

Ustica, finally, is the most pristine of all the islands. Picture-

sque and colourful due to the murals on the houses of the fi-

shermen, it is located just over 60 km from the coast of Palermo

and is a very small emerged portion of a gigantic underwater

volcanic complex.

The real attraction of the island is its nature reserve with a rich

wildlife population just a few metres deep. Well worth a visit is

the Punta Spalmatore aquarium and the permanent naturali-

stic exhibition in Torre Spalmatore.

The beautiful seabed of the island can be admired even by tho-

se who do not dive thanks to a boat with large windows on the

bottom that allows you to explore the blue paradise populated

with bass, bream, sea bream and grouper. Ustica is therefore

nature in a free state, but there is also archaeology: the no-

table village of Faraglioni, fortified, with the remains of more

than two hundred houses. Archaeologists have also uncovered

a large Roman necropolis.

Opposite page: Roman ruins on the island of Lampedusa; below, Capo Milazzese

on the island of Panarea. This page, clockwise from the left: the rock of Strombolicchio;

the Elephant Arch on the island of Pantelleria; the small harbour of Levanzo.

88

SardegnaAlmost 2000 kilometres of coastline,

long beaches, coves, reefs and tourist

marinas: the Sardinian landscape

changes in form and colour with every

kilometre. And likewise, a Sardinian holiday may

vary from day to day: sunshine and sea, relaxation

and sport, scuba diving and trekking, leisure

boating and horse riding, cities and archaeological

sites. The seabeds of the island and its many minor

islets are a diver’s paradise; the strong frequent

winds allow for surfi ng, windsurfi ng, kite surfi ng

and sailing; the villages of the inland area are

ideal for cultural visits and the discovery of fi ne

food and wine specialities; folklore is a feature of

every corner of this region and the mountainous

areas lend themselves to trekking, free climbing,

caving and pot-holing activities, golf, mountain

cycling and horse riding. The choice is yours!

Mediterranean princess

SARDINIA

89

Nuraghi and giant stone masses are its symbol: Sardinia, with

its blue sea and uncontaminated inland areas, is deeply rooted

in ancient history and has a marked cultural identity, which is

typical of an insular territory. A unique example is certainly

represented by the “Giants” of Mount Prama, huge statues

sculpted in a way which, to all effects and purposes, recall the

Greek Kouroi, but with which there are no chronological or

cultural ties: a sign of how the Sardinian culture is one of a

kind and has no comparison with anything else in the Med-

iterranean basin. The “Giants”, exhibited at the Li Punti Res-

toration Centre (Sassari), were found in the area of Cabras,

on the slopes of Mount Prama, close to an ancient necropolis

dominated by a nuraghe. And now we come to the other great

protagonists of the island: the nuraghi, groups of megalithic

edifices of a truncated conical shape, dating back to the so-

called “nuragic” civilization which existed in the II millennium

B.C. solely and exclusively in Sardinia. Apparently there are

still about seven thousand of these constructions still standing

throughout the Island, even though it is thought that there

were originally many more, built very close to each other, as

in the Nuraghi Valley complex, the area of Logudoro Meilogu,

where there are about thirty nuraghi and about ten giants’

tombs, and where the so-called domus de janas, “fairy hous-

es”, are preserved, hypogean burial chambers excavated in the

rocks and dating back to the Neolithic age.

In its eventful past, Sardinia has witnessed the passing of the

Phoenicians and the Carthaginians, who

gave way to the Romans after the first

Punic War. Traces of this past may be ad-

mired in the extraordinary archaeologi-cal site of Nora, in Pula: the ancient city

is located on a headland separated from

the mainland by an isthmus that extends

at two points, Sa Punta and Su Coloru to

the west, Punta del Coltellazzo to the east,

facing the little island of the same name.

And now that we have described “ar-

chaeological Sardinia” a mention is due

to its “literature”: Sardinia has actually

been the birthplace of a great number of

writers, who have described its colours,

The charm of a unique history

Opposite page: view of Maddalena from the island of Caprera.

Above from left to right: the interior of a nuraghe (prehistoric round tower);

windsurfing off Cagliari; vegetation on Mount Albo. Below: sunset at Castelsardo.

its wild primitive atmosphere and life on the island as it really

is. A recommended literary itinerary has to include the places

described in the pages of Doves and Sparrow Hawks and Canes

swinging in the Wind, masterpieces by Grazia Deledda, the most

famous of Sardinian writers who won a Nobel in 1926: the itin-

erary starts in Orune, «It is an old and closed village, where the

usages, the habits, the customs, the most distant popular tra-

ditions persist, perhaps more than in any other place, together

with the intelligence and the value of a life which is just as ener-

getic as it is limited, full of expressive capacity, individual power

and solitude………», to say it with the words of Carlo Levi, but

above all a village that is worth visiting for its double attraction

of the early twentieth century Murgia building and the prehis-

toric menhir and dolmen of Isthiti; then we move on to Galtellì, where it is possible to visit the Sardinian writer’s home in one

of the most characteristic and best preserved old town centres

in Sardinia, with its St. Peter’s cathedral and the ancient land-

owner’s house Domo de Marras, now an Ethnographic Museum,

which has reconstructed typical scenes depicting the everyday

lives of agricultural workers and herdsmen.

Aspects of Sardinia, therefore, that go well beyond that of its

seaside attractions.

90

An island of timeless traditions

A holiday in Sardinia is certainly about plunging into the blue

sea and enjoying the peace and quiet of uncontaminated nature.

But it is also a journey packed with surprising experiences and

charm, a mysterious exploration into the spirit of a proud, crea-

tive and imaginative population.

Finding out about old traditional customs is always an inter-

esting experience: no other region in Italy can claim to having

so many, and which are so different from one place to another.

Each little community defends them proudly, to highlight the

cultural identity of each village. Clothing, in the past, used to

represent different occasions in life: so there are at least three

different ways of dressing – everyday, special occasions and

mourning dress – for all of the 370 municipalities on the island!

Only elderly people still wear these costumes regularly, espe-

cially in the villages of Desulo, Tonara and Orgosolo, in the area

of Nuoro, or in Busachi, close to Oristano, or in Cagliari on the

feast day of Saint Ephisius and in Sassari during the traditional

Cavalcade: a picturesque event offering spectators the experi-

ence of a return to the past.

It is interesting to try to understand the translation of some of

the various garments used: women’s costumes are made up

of a headdress, a camisa (blouse), the palas or cossu (bodice),

a corittu (jacket), the munedda (skirt) and the pannellu (apron);

men on the other hand wear cartzones (trousers), a ragas (a

short black skirt gathered in at the waist), the gabbanu (coat)

and the mastrucca (a sleeveless sheepskin jacket that is com-

monly used by herdsmen).

Whoever wishes to go more deeply into these particular aspects,

to fi nd out about the lives of the herdsmen of Barbagia, or listen

to and understand the typical folk songs, to learn more about

the origins of purceddu (suckling pig), casu marzu (typical cheese

with worms) and pane carasau (a crisp unleavened bread), can-

not miss out on a visit to one of the museums created to accom-

pany visitors on their journey into this unique cultural environ-

ment: in Cagliari, for example, it is possible to visit the Centre of Peasant Culture “Villa Muscas”, a museum housing a col-

lection of tools, agricultural machinery, typical artefacts of Sar-

dinian rural communities, as well as boasting a remarkable col-

lection of wines, with over 800 bottles of Sardinian production.

Then, at the Citadel of Museums, also in the regional capital,

91

the Cocco Ethnographical Collection is exhibited, with fabrics

woven on a horizontal loom, jewellery (the Sardinian wedding

rings engraved in gold or silver with french wire, microspheres

and tiny fretworked leaves) and furniture (especially wooden

chests, called kascia or arka if they are large, and kascitta or kas-

cioneddu if small).

Those who prefer to “experience traditions” directly, rather than

visit museums, cannot possibly miss the numerous folk festivals

animating the summer days, evenings and nights: in June Al-ghero comes to life with the rites of Fire, Water and Prediction

to celebrate the feast of Saint John the Baptist; the third Sun-

day in July in Villasimius offers an impacting experience with

its Feast of Our Lady of Castaways, with a procession of boats

paying homage to the Virgin’s statue on the sea bottom. July

ends in Gavoi with the lively traditional feast of Our Lady of

Sa Itria, where it is possible to take part in horse racing events

in honour of the Our Lady. Horses are also at the centre of at-

tention on the first Sunday in August during the Fonni Palio,

whose contestants not only represent Communes in Sardinia

but also those of Italy and elsewhere. On 14th August, the eve of

Assumption Day, the Candle Procession takes place in Nulvi, in which giant candles weighing over nine quintals each, are

carried through the streets, while in Guasila, on the 15th, the

Feast day of the Assumption, the game of s’acchixedda takes

place: the village bachelors, all on horseback, have to lasso a

heifer. Another interesting event is the Barefoot Race, on the

first Sunday of September in Cabras: it is a re-enactment of the

barefooted flight to save the Statue of Saint Salvatore who, in

times gone by, had fended off invaders.

And the list could go on forever: each village has its traditional

costumes, local specialities and folk festivals, all waiting to be

discovered, tasted and experienced.

Opposite page: above, a young man wearing traditional costume.

Below, a flock of sheep in Barbagia. This page, clockwise from the left:

the boat race of Is Fassonis in Santa Giusta; a girl during the festival

of Sant’Efisio in Cagliari; a lane in Galtellì.

92

Cagliari, An ancient capital waiting to be discovered

With a history stretching back thousands of years, Cagliari also

boasted the title of capital of the Kingdom of Sardinia from 1324

to 1720 and from 1798 to 1814. Facing the so-called Gulf of An-

gels, it extends around the historical city centre (called Castello)

and is built on seven different hills which now represent the var-

ious city quarters: Castello, Tuvu Mannu, Tuvixeddu, Monte Claro,

Monte Urpinu, Colle di Bonaria and Colle di San Michele. The city

has developed over a hilly area and a stretch of fl at land on which

the more recent quarters have developed from the twentieth cen-

tury onwards. With a wealth of monuments and places of interest,

the “old city” is encircled by the Bastion of Saint Rémy, built in

the late nineteenth century on the walls and aqueduct of the an-

cient Caralis, which was later transformed into a botanical garden,

with numerous species of plants growing among cisterns, wells

and quarries dating back to Roman times and used as air-raid

shelters during the second World War. Adopting a chronological

approach, our visit of the city starts out from the necropolises of Tuvixeddu (dating back to the Phoenician age) and of St. Paul (Roman) and from the burial tomb known as the Viper’s Grot-to, but also takes in the Roman Villa of Tigellius, the Temple of via Malta, the archaeological site of Saint Eulalie and the

Fullonica, the tanks used in Roman times for dyeing fabrics.

Myrtle liqueur, whether red or white, is a popular drink in

Sardinia and Corsica and is made by marinating myrtle

berries or a mixture of berries and leaves in alcohol. The

red version is prepared by marinating ripe pigmented ber-

ries. Its origins are extremely ancient even though the first

documents in which it is mentioned date back to the nine-

teenth century, when families used to make myrtle wine,

using a mixture of aqua vitae and water or wine and water

as a marinade. Once it has sufficiently marinated, sugar or

honey are added to sweeten. Sardinian myrtle liqueur has

digestive properties, so it is normally drunk at the end of a

meal but many people also enjoy it as an aperitif. Ideally,

it should be served ice cold.

The plant treasured

by Venus

93

««Province: Cagliari

Altitude: 23 m asl

Inhabitants: 155 887

Tourist information:

Ente Sardo Industrie Turistiche via Mameli, 97 - Tel. +39 070 664195

www.visit-cagliari.it

If we move on to the Middle Ages, you can not miss to visit

the impressive walls with their four towers of the Elephant, the

Buttress, Saint Pancras and the Eagle. Dating back to the same

period is the Cathedral of Santa Maria di Castello, dedicated

to the Virgin and to St. Cecilia Virgin and Martyr, built in the

Romanic style of Pisa, whose present aspect however reveals

the Baroque alterations and the neo-Romanic façade inspired

by the Cathedral of Pisa. The Royal Palace (or Viceroy’s Pal-

ace), the ancient residence of the King’s deputy, dates back to

the Aragonese period. Its fourteenth century features have been

completely modified by the restoration work of 1730 executed

by the Piedmont engineers De Guibert and De Vincenti: another

innovation of those years was the ceremonial staircase leading

to the master floor, the official residence of the Savoy royal fam-

ily and its court, exiled from Turin by Napoleon Bonaparte.

The churches of Saint Restituta and Saint Lucifer are inter-

esting to visit; standing in two different parts of the city, they

were both erected during the Middle Ages in areas of particular

significance to ancient populations: the first is erected on a vast

hypogean chamber which was used as a crypt by the Punic peo-

ple, Romans and early Christians; the church of Saint Lucifer

rises on an ancient paleo-Christian necropolis which had been

Opposite page: Cagliari cathedral. Above: the port of Marina Piccola at the foot of the promontory of Sella del Diavolo. Below: a part of the Ramparts of Saint Remy.

frequently explored for relics until a tombstone was found bear-

ing the inscription “Lucif Crus Arcepis” (hence its present name).

The great ferment of the Savoy period is reflected in the con-

struction of the Palazzo dell’Università (university building)

commissioned by King Charles Emanuel III to a project by one

of his military engineers: the concept consisted in creating a

vast cultural hub with the erection of a university building,

seminar and theatre (only the first two were built). In the hall

of the Rector’s office, visitors can stop and admire the four

symbolic bronze statues, Philosophy, Jurisprudence, Medicine

and Science and Technology (the latter is a work by Francesco

Messina).

On the outskirts of the city, it is well worth paying a visit to the

Cagliari salt-pans, located close to the Beach of the Poetto

(an area administrated by the Municipality of Cagliari and that

of Quartu Sant’Elena), and now included in the Regional Park

of the Molentargius which is famous for its flamingos. Today,

the salt city of the early twentieth century is considered to be

a site of industrial archaeology and comprises executive build-

ings, workers’ dwellings, a Church, a theatre, along with the

laboratories and workshops where the salt used to be extracted

and processed.

94

Along the coasts of a crystal-clear sea

There are numerous possible itineraries to follow if you wish to

enjoy the endless and stupendous coastline of Sardinia.

You may decide to start out from Alghero, in the north-west

of the island, and proceed towards the protected marine area

of the Parco di Porto Conte, with Punta del Giglio and Capo

Caccia. Here the karst rock headlands, the extremities of a

faunal oasis populated by Giara ponies, open out into uncon-

taminated marine grottos such as the Green Grotto and the

Grotto of Neptune. Take the fl ight of steps providing access

to the latter, and follow a trail of densely packed stalactites

and stalagmites leading to a marine lake surrounded by an ex-

traordinary play of light. Just a short distance away from Capo

Caccia, the nuraghi site of Palmavera makes you forget for a

few moments how close the sea is.

Completely different atmospheres and landscapes can be dis-

covered along the north-east coast by departing from Olbia,

a strategic location for Sardinian tourism thanks to its air-

port. The fi rst mandatory stopover is that of Porto Cervo, a

renowned holiday resort that takes its name from the rather

irregular morphology of the location, which extends along the

coasts of a natural harbour whose outline recalls that of a deer’s

horns. The streets, steps and porticos all converge in the little

central square directly connected with the old port with its nu-

merous designer fashion boutiques. The sight of luxury yachts

and leisure boats berthed in the port is one of the attractions

of this resort. We then move on to Palau, the customary de-

parture point for the archipelago of La Maddalena, where you

cannot help admiring the marvellous beaches that alternate

with granitic rocks to create a truly breathtaking landscape.

Close to the centre of Palau, you will encounter Capo d’Orso, a

granitic hill rising up 122 metres, whose form, modelled by the

95

natural elements, recalls the figure of a majestic bear. Around

Palau there are lots of nuraghi sites and “giants’ tombs”. An-

other not-to-be-missed location is that of Santa Teresa di Gallura, whose layout was designed by Victor Emanuel I of

Savoy in 1808. Today it is one of the most spectacular seaside

resorts, thanks to its position facing the rocks on a particularly

indented stretch of coast.

If we decide to visit the south of the island, from Cagliari it is

possible to explore the sea bottom of the Golfo degli Angeli, to admire the ecosystem or “hunt” for wrecks. From Cagliari,

we then move on to Santa Margherita di Pula, with its little

tourist marina of Cala Verde, the rocky stacks of Capo Spar-

tivento, the Secca del Candeliere (meaning candlestick shal-

lows) with the three needles inspiring its name and a sandy

seabed at a depth of 40 metres inhabited by various forms of

life and countless archaeological remains left by ancient ship-

wrecks. Taking a boat to the archipelago of the Sulcis, visitors

can see the marvellous St. Peter’s island and the little islet

of Corno, under the lighthouse of Capo Sandalo. Glass bot-

tom boats enable you to enjoy the sight of coral reefs carpeting

the so-called Discesa delle Tacche Bianche (white-spotted de-

scent) at just 17 metres depth.

Opposite page: four picturesque images of the Sardinian coast.

This page, clockwise from the left: the interior of a cave; sand dunes in Porto Pino;

the Roccia dell’Orso in Palau; Cala Luna in the Bay of Orosei.

Back north, one of the most popular destinations for a boating

holiday is La Maddalena: an archipelago with seven major

islands of which only three are inhabited. The archipelago is

also famous for having been the last home of the Hero of Two

Worlds, Giuseppe Garibaldi, who built his famous White House

on Caprera, now a house museum and his burial place, open

to the public. The town of Maddalena, on the other hand,

looks onto the Harbour of Cala Gavetta and hosts the Nino

Lamboglia Museum, dedicated to undersea archaeology (Lam-

boglia studied and classified all the different types and shapes

of amphorae, and his name still lives on in the amphora clas-

sification code). Apart from these two islands, the archipelago

is also comprised of Santa Maria (with a small inhabited area),

Santo Stefano, Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli and other minor islets.

Their uncontaminated nature makes them absolutely fascinat-

ing, with their preponderance of colours and scents typical of

the Mediterranean maquis in an explosion of wild vegetation

that regenerates body and soul.

Comunità del GardaVia dei Colli, 15 - Villa Mirabella - 25083 Gardone Riviera (BS) - info@lagodigarda.it

www.lagodigarda.it

®

COMUNITÀdel GARDA

Foto: Giovanna Gatti

Foto: Giovanna Gatti

Foto: Giovanna Gatti

Foto: Bams Photo

Foto: Bams Photo

The Internet portal of Lake Garda

info & booking: +39 3388718653 | topcampcavallino@hotmail.com | www.topcampcavallino.com

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4

Italia Vacanze New n. 0 – www.italiavacanze.com

Realizzata da Publitour S.p.A. – Sede legale: Viale Bruno Buozzi, 19 – I-00197 Roma

www.publitour.it – info@publitour.it

Direttore responsabile: Luca Mantovani

Publitour S.p.A. – uffi cio di Verona, via Casette di Sotto, 13 – 37060 Palazzolo di Sona (VR)

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Progetto grafi co, testi e editing: Studio27 Progetto Editoriale

con la collaborazione di Giampaolo Bardella, Paolo Lavadini,

Giulia Varetti, Tiziana Gilardi e Silvia Cortellazzi

www.studio27snc.it – info@studio27snc.it

Referenze fotografi che: Fotolia, De Agostini Picture Library, Luca Finessi,

Foto Paritani, Gianluca Carapezza, Paolo Lavadini, Giulia Varetti

Stampa: Roto 2000 S.p.A. – Casarile (Milano)

Finito di stampare nel mese di gennaio 2013

South Tyrol .......................... 6All the magic of the mountains and the Middle Ages

Bolzano

A land of beauty: spa treatments and wellness

Trentino ............................... 12A natural paradise set amidst the mountains

Trento

Fun and adventure for all the family

Lake Garda ...................... 16A small sea among the mountains

Riva

For a holiday... made for all the family

Lombardy .......................... 20A region with a thousand different faces

Milan

Lake Como, the pleasure residences

Veneto ................................... 24A kaleidoscope of emotions

Walled cities and cities on water

Venice

In the name of relaxation and fun

Friuli Venezia Giulia ....32At the edges of the territory, in the centre of history

Trieste

A region to discover... underground!

Liguria .................................. 36A balcony over the Mediterranean

Genoa

A magical land of water

Emilia Romagna .......... 40A land of passions and pleasure

Bologna

The riviera... that never sleeps!

Tuscany ................................ 44Picture postcard views

From sunfl owers to woods

Firenze

Versilia: trend-setting beaches

The Island of Elba ....... 54A gem of an island

One small island, many small towns

Wonders under the sea

Marche ................................. 58Nature and culture: a region’s trademark

Urbino

Velvety beaches

Latium .................................. 62Set between ancient splendour and modern gems

Rome

Castles, hills and fl ower festivals

Abruzzo .............................. 66The spectacle of nature

Chieti

On the trail of the wolf and the bear

Campania .......................... 70The wonderful treasures of a Terra Felix

Naples

Islands of beauty and wellbeing

Apulia ................................... 74One land, two seas, a thousand splendours

Lecce

Village fairs and festivals with the rhythm of the pizzica

Calabria ............................. 78The toe of the boot

Reggio Calabria

The sea beloved by the gods

Sicily ..................................... 82The island on which the sun shines

Agrigento

Corners of paradise in the blue

Sardinia .............................. 88Mediterranean princess

An island of timeless traditions

Cagliari

Along the coasts of a crystal-clear sea

Index

5

NNow Italia Vacanze has adopted a completely new format to respond to the

discerning requirements of contemporary tourism and to give enhanced visibility

to our country’s tourist attractions.

No longer just a catalogue focused primarily on the promotion of camping sites

and distributed at European trade fair events. From today, this publication

takes the form of a magazine and presents Italy as the holiday destination par

excellence, in all seasons. Because holidaying in Italy is not just about sea or

snow, but also comprises cities of art, archaeology, ancient villages, landscapes,

fine food and wine, spas, music, fashion and events to enjoy all the year round.

The articles in the magazine put the accent on each Italian region’s historical and

artistic features, landscape and food and wine specialities, by addressing three

topics: the first describes the distinctive characteristics of the region, followed

by a more detailed description of a particular city or area, to conclude with a box

dedicated to the typical products of the region featured in the article.

To respond to the tourist’s need for practical information, the magazine will

be accompanied by a HOSPITALITY supplement providing a description of

accommodation facilities and a visit to the area presented. Space is dedicated

to the various facilities (hotels, holidays villages and campsites, holiday farms,

B&B) in order to provide a detailed description and a more specifically targeted

and exhaustive account of Italy’s tourist offering.

The magazine will also be available on italiavacanze.com, with more extensive

editorial contents and detailed information about tourist facilities and structures.

You are now browsing through number “0”, reserved for international tourism

trade fairs, which has been published in English and German for the time

being. In Spring, after receiving and evaluating your remarks and comments

regarding this initiative, for which we thank you in advance, we shall publish the

Italian edition for distribution through news-stands, with two numbers focused

respectively on the summer and winter seasons.

Have a nice journey!

6

Alto AdigeWedged between the Central Alps, in the

valleys formed by the rivers Adige and Isarco,

where mountains are the unquestioned

protagonists. This is South Tyrol, with its

towns of Bolzano and Meran, which ever since ancient times

has been at the centre of the most important thoroughfares

and, for this same reason, was dotted with towers, citadels

and castles during the Middle Ages. The mountain chain of

the Dolomites, which stands to the South East, represents

the most famous icon of this territory, the natural habitat

of marmots, alpine ibexes and golden eagles. A mention is

also due to the fi ne food specialities offered by this territory:

the queen of them all is certainly the South Tyrolean apple

IGP, cultivated over an area of 18,000 hectares, but don’t

forget to taste the local malga cheese (the “Grigio” variety in

particular) and speck, typical ingredients of alpine cuisine

which team marvellously with the famous Tyrolean wines,

products of an age-old tradition.

All the magic of the mountains and the Middle AgesSOUTH TYROL

7

Midst the green woods and sharp rocky peaks, we find towers,

castles and battlements to testify to the strategic importance

played by South Tyrol in ancient times: these valley routes

in the proximity of mountain passes, whose roads served to

transport merchandise and culture, had to be defended and

protected. The castles, above all, with their stories and legends,

allow for a global interpretation of this land.

Castles that tell of battles and knights, such as Castel Coira,

in the Venosta Valley, commissioned in the mid 13th century by

some Swiss bishops who set up an armoury within its walls,

which is still quite impressive today: the prime exhibit of this

collection of ancient weapons – the largest private collection in

the world – is the huge 15th century suit of armour that once

belonged to Ulrich IX of Matsch.

Castles perched high up on rocky crags, like Castel d’Appi-ano, built at the start of the XII century at a height of 628 m

to guard over the Adige Valley, or those which enchant visitors

with their decorative Romanic and Gothic frescoes, as in the

case of Castel Roncolo at the gates of Bolzano, a city cas-

tle that is also classified as an “illustrated manor” thanks to its

frescoes, which are some of the most important in the Tyrol.

Castles which wholeheartedly adopt the production of local

craftsmen: Castel Tures, located in the valley of the same

name, whose 64 rooms are almost entirely wood-panelled and

which preserves its medieval wood furniture in excellent con-

dition, and Castel Tasso, rising on a rock in the marsh of Vip-

iteno (now inexistent), which treasures the late-gothic carved

wooden furnishings in its magnificent halls (don’t miss the

Green Room) and an extraordinary perforated wooden gate in

the Chapel of Saint Zeno.

So these monuments are all quite different from each other,

but share the same magnificence, charm, stories, tales, legends

and historical characters, to narrate the splendour of this area

in Mediaeval times and its importance for Europe as a nerve

centre: Castel Forte, in Ponte Gardena, was the birthplace of

one of the last poets of courtly love, Oswald von Wolkenstein,

who told the stories of feudal life and chivalrous deeds from

the Knights Room; or what about Castel Trauttmansdorff

which hosted the Empress Sissy in the nineteenth century dur-

ing her numerous winter stays, so frequently indeed that the

road leading from the castle to the old town centre of Meran

is known as “the Sissy Promenade”. The Castle of Castelbel-lo, on the other hand, is a testimony of ancient Roman times

with its permanent exhibition “Via Claudia Augusta, a Roman

road through the Venosta Valley”, while we are catapulted into

the Baroque period with Castel Wolfsthurn, in Racines, the

reconstruction of a medieval building standing out from the

woods with its charmingly elegant profile, which houses exhi-

bitions of folk art, fun activities for children and the Provincial

Hunting and Fishing Museum.

There are over 200 castles in the area around Bolzano: cita-

dels, towers, palaces and stately homes that may all be easily

reached by car, but also along the numerous footpaths and the

so-called “wine roads”, for trekking and mountain bike enthu-

siasts or for the lovers of fine food and drink. No matter what

their interests are, everyone can enjoy the same scenery, the

marvellous mountains surrounding the town, a quartz porphy-

ry volcanic rock formation of an amazing tone of red, and the

green expanses of orchards and vineyards.

South Tyrol is also associated with the Ladin language: in Val

Badia, the Ciastel del Tor, which hosts the Ladin Museum,

also preserves the documentary evidence of the history of this

language. However, as South Tyrolean tradition would have it,

the “heart of the country” is Castel Tirolo, which has majes-

tically dominated the Meran basin since 1120 as decreed by

the Counts of Venosta, later to be called the Counts of Tyrol. A

castle which now hosts the Historical and Cultural Museum of

the Province of Bolzano and whose name represents the entire

identity and cultural autonomy of this area.

On top of the world, among towers and castles

Opposite page: the Lake of Landro, in the Pusteria valley. Top of page from left: the Odle Massif; the Trapp armoury of Castel Coira; the Tappeiner promenade in Meran.

Below: Castel Tirolo.

8

Bolzano The enchanted town nestling among the mountains

Bolzano stands at an altitude of 262 m, and was already

mentioned by Paolo Diacono in his Historia Langobardorum

under the name of Bauzanum and archeologically docu-

mented in the Early Middle Ages, when the city walls were

demolished to allow the townspeople, with their strong in-

clination for commerce, to welcome traders coming from the

north and south.

The city parlour is Walther square, onto which the Cathe-dral of Santa Maria Assunta faces, and where the statue of

Walther von der Vogelweide, the greatest German medieval

poet, occupies a dominant position. The town’s symbol is cer-

tainly the cathedral bell tower which, from its height of 65 m,

represents one of the masterpieces of the international gothic

style; the pitched roof with its elegant composition of green,

white and yellow tiles is particularly striking and confers a

lively aspect to the entire square. Furthermore, positioned on

the western façade of the Church stands the so-called “Ma-

donna of speech”, whose miraculous powers are invoked by

mothers of children with speech difficulties.

Some marvellous frescoes of the Giotto school may be ad-

mired in the nearby Dominican Church, beyond which lies

the most ancient part of the city, with its little square called

piazzetta delle Erbe, the porticoed street Laubengasse delim-

ited by Gothic buildings and a criss-cross of narrow streets:

Vineyards surrounding the cas-

tles, expanses of grapes growing on

the fl atlands nestling between the

mountains: South Tyrolean wine

speaks the language of tradition

and landscape, as well as innova-

tion. The 16 municipal areas, mak-

ing up the so-called Wine Road,

bring the Wine Festival to life along

its 70 km trail every year from May

to June.

In the area around Bolzano, the

grapes of the robust and velvety

Santa Maddalena and the typical

Lagrein vines come to maturity. In

the Oltradige and Val d’Adige vis-

tors must taste the excellent white

wines of these areas and rediscov-

er the famous Schiava del Lago di

Caldaro, while further south, in

Termeno, where it is produced, an-

other not-to-be-missed experience

is that of Gewürztraminer, a deli-

cately aromatic wine.

In Caldaro, the Provincial Wine

Museum tells the story of the local

wine producing tradition.

Along the wine road

9

««

a series of contemporary shops housed in old workshops is a

particularly charming sight. It is actually on the street of the

Porticos that the South Tyrol Archaeological Museum is

situated, showcasing an extremely precious collection of pre-

historic and proto-historic engraved stelae statues, but whose

unquestioned protagonist is ötzi, the mummy of a hunter

who lived over 5000 years ago and discovered on the Sim-

ilaun glacier, on the border between Italy and Austria at an

altitude of over 3213 m. The body of ötzi (whose name means

“iceman”) is presented to the public in an innovative manner:

it is positioned in a special atmosphere that guarantees its

preservation, but visible through small apertures. Visitors will

be fascinated by the studies carried out on the tattoos found

on the man’s body, as well as the numerous reconstructions

of his clothing and equipment supported by detailed expla-

nations of how they were constructed and used. If the man

of the Similaun Glacier offers a unique insight into what life

used to be like in this area in the Copper Age, it is the famous

South Tyrolean alpinist Reinold Messner who, with his MMM

“Mountain Messner Museum” describes the emotional rela-

tionship between contemporary man and the mountains: a

museum project spread over five different facilities, all locat-

ed in South Tyrol (the main branch has its premises in Castel Firmiano, close to Bolzano) which illustrates the themes as-

sociated with mountain sacredness, the world of ice, alpinism

on the Dolomites and mountain communities.

The Renon cableway departs from the centre of Bolzano

and, in just over a quarter of an hour, reaches the Colle di

Villa (Bolzano’s “mountain”), San Genesio and Soprabolzano,

where it is possible to visit some interesting geological for-

mations known as “the pyramids of land”. The first 950 m of

altitude had already been conquered early in the twentieth

century with the “Renon train”, a thoroughly futuristic project

at the time which had no equal anywhere in the world.

Back in town, it is possible to admire a rare example of a

lowland castle set among the mountains: even today, Castel Mareccio is still surrounded by hectares of vineyards; it was

Opposite page: a street in the old town centre of Bolzano.

This page, from the top: a detail of the cathedral roof in Bolzano;

Castel Mareccio in Bolzano.

Province: Bolzano

Altitude: 262 m asl

Inhabitants: 104 841

Tourist information:

Tourist Board, Piazza Walther 8

tel. +39 0471 307000 – www.bolzano-bozen.it

first erected in the Middle Ages, but was later given a new

look to satisfy the architectural criteria of the 16th century,

and is now a location used for events and exhibitions.

Bolzano is also a modern town, and this is quite apparent

on passing the Talvera bridge and visiting the districts that

were built when it was no longer part of Austria and an-

nexed by Italy. This is the best spot in town to admire the

enchanting Dolomite peaks which offer a breathtaking view

at any time of the day.

10

A land of beauty:spa treatments and wellness

It was first frequented by historical personages and cultural

celebrities: for its beauty, its nature and the fact that it has

always represented an oasis of wellness. In fact, thanks to

its oligo mineral waters rich in radon (a highly soluble gas

suitable for vasodilatation, anti-inflammatory and deconges-

tion therapies) Meran has plenty to offer to those wishing to

enjoy a period of relaxation, wellness or therapy immersed in

the splendour of the South Tyrolean landscape.

The first promoter of this idea was the physician, Josef Wai-

bl, who wrote a little book in 1836 praising the beneficial

properties of Meran’s air and waters. So, in the first half of

the 19th century, the city became a “health” resort: the first

hydrotherapeutic centre was built in 1840 and the first centre

for medical treatments in 1850. It was Dr. Franz Tappeiner

who decided to have a number of subtropical plant species

planted in the area, and these continue to confer a rather

unique and particular charm to the entire surroundings.

The Empress Sissy made the town very fashionable, so much

so that between the end of the 19th and the start of the 20th

century it was considered to be the “health” resort par excel-

lence, with over one million overnight stays registered each

year. The radon springs were discovered in the thirties: Mer-

an went from being a health resort to a spa, with the opening

of new facilities in the seventies and in 2000, supported by

a great architectural project which gave Meran a totally new

image.

Visitors are immersed in a transparent environment, in

which they can admire splendid mountain scenery on all

sides, surrounded by an interior design in wood and stone

11

signed by Thun, and a surface area of over 2000 sq m of spa

water. Spoilt for choice, therefore, when it comes to pamper-

ing and caring for body and spirit. With specific treatments

for arthro-rheumatic, dermatological, vascular, ear, nose and

throat, gynaecological and urinary therapies.

And with something to please the whole family, in the way

of theme trails and playing grounds. Without forgetting the

opportunities for walking (the famous Tappeiner walk is

over 3 km long), and discovering the characteristic porticoed

streets of South Tyrolean hamlets and cities, dominated by

churches (the Medieval cathedral) and castles (dating back

to the 15th century).

For those who have set their sights higher, it is possible to

start from the 325 m of Meran and proceed towards San Martino in Badia, over 1100 m, characterized by cold min-

eral waters with a bitter salty taste, and also recommended

for various types of treatments, starting from those of the

respiratory system. All of which is offered in the simplicity

of country-style facilities, for true connoisseurs, where it is

possible to get away from it all and abandon oneself to the

simple pleasure of well-being.

Also located at an altitude of over 1000 m, at less than two

hours from Meran, are the Salomon baths in Rasun Anter-selva which exploit the cold water springing from the

granitic rocks known for their diuretic and anti-inflamma-

tory properties. An oasis of relaxation in a corner of South

Tyrol that is still uncontaminated, surrounded by peaks that

rise over 3000 m.

But the spa baths located in the Dolomites are also an ex-

cellent opportunity to regenerate body and soul: what better

way to rest than in the sulphurous waters of Sesto, after a

long walk or a climbing excursion in the mountains.

You just have to choose between a bath in hay or milk. Or, if

you prefer, get doused in the most famous and genuine local

product, apples.

You can go for a treatment in essential oil of mugo pine, vi-

nasse or chestnut. In South Tyrol, wellness has the scent of

nature, mountains, tradition and local produce. In fact, there

are treatments with Vipiteno yogurt, or with the novelties

of quartz in Val di Vizze, where treatments derive from an

ancient tradition.

Without forgetting the numerous Kneipp trails, which con-

sist in walking barefoot over different surfaces in hot and

cold water: this natural treatment reduces stress, as well as

stimulating the mind and body.

In Tesido, for instance, it is possible to try the Kneipp Rud-

lbach trail: surrounded by the woods, plunge your feet into

9°C cold stream water, and follow the various stages of the

trail as you relax and meditate.

In Upper Pusteria, in Villabassa, there is one of the finest

Kneipp trails in the Alps, set in a children’s playground, for

family-style relaxation, just like Varna, close to Bressanone,

where children may also use the trail designed for playing

and exercising.

Moving on to the Val Venosta, the Bear Bath was constructed

in 2008 in Solda; it is entirely made from natural materials

and looks onto the peaks of Ortles, Zebrù and Gran Zebrù.

On these pages: relaxation and wellness in the spas of South Tyrol.

12

TrentinoTrentino offers a rugged mountain

landscape, the stunning sight of the

Dolomites which have been recognised

as a UNESCO World Heritage Site,

parks and nature reserves, as well as experiences

in close contact with nature suitable for all types

of visitor. Trentino is dominated by mountains

and the region offers all this with the delicate

interlude of views of vineyards and orchards as

well as the surprising addition of small blue lakes

set between the peaks. The area is structured

around numerous Alpine valleys (in particular,

near the valley of the river Adige). Trento is its

most representative city and the region offers

visitors a range of small and large towns with

rich traditions and enormous tourist appeal.

A natural paradise set amidst the mountains

TRENTINO

13

There is an extremely original way of exploring the Trentino

area. You could call it “trekking on the trail of legends”: walk-

ing, observation and climbing accompanied by stories, tradi-

tions and the profound soul of an environment surrounded by

rocks and open to the sky. A large hiking trail based on this

theme links the Valley of San Martino in Castrozza, the Fassa

Valley and the Fiemme Valley. The trail is equipped with clearly

marked signs for about 200 km of paths with 9 stops for more

detailed exploration.

According to the most popular legend, the Dolomites are also

known as the Pale Mountains. During the period of the an-

cient Kingdom of the Dolomites, when the rock of the moun-

tains had the same colour as the Alps and everything was

covered with flowering meadows, lush woods and enchanted

lakes, the air was filled with happiness and harmony. In every

place, apart from the royal castle, where the king’s son was

condemned to live far from his bride, the Moon Princess: he

was destined to be blinded by the sight of the bright light of

the Moon while she was forced to remain far away from the

dark gloomy mountains and from the shaded woods. As he

wandered through the woods in desperation, the prince came

across the Prince of the Salvans, a gnome in search of a land

for his people: in exchange for permission to inhabit these

woods with his people, the small king made the mountains of

the kingdom shiny. The gnomes worked the whole night long

and covered all the rocks with moonlight. The princess was

thus able to return to her groom and the Dolomites became

the Pale Mountains.

The snow, the mountain, the sun, and the woods are often

the main characters of these charming stories which are pro-

foundly linked to the environment and the climate. This is the

case of the Snow Princess of the Fassa Valley, who could

not be exposed to sunlight because otherwise she would

have melted but, at the same time, could not do without the

warmth of the mountain: the king therefore decided to abol-

ish the sun from his kingdom and all the inhabitants inverted

their lifestyles by sleeping during the day and working during

the night. The situation soon became unsustainable and when

the princess learned that she was the cause of the suffering

of the kingdom’s inhabitants, she decided to sacrifice herself

for her people by going out into the sunshine. In Canazei,

the Ombretta Pass (The Pass of the small shadow) still exists

today in her memory.

A romantic legend explains why the waters of Lake Tovel in

Tuenno turn red once a year: according to the story, Queen

Trasenga had decided not to marry to avoid dividing her king-

dom. Lavinto, the King of Tuenno, having seen his advances

rejected, avenged himself by killing the queen and her army

on the shores of the lake whose waters were tinged with the

colour of the blood.

Each part of Trentino has its own myths and legends; just enter

the towns and villages, listen to the tales of the local inhabit-

ants and find out the origin of the curious names of the moun-

tain peaks: it provides the chance to discover elves, saints,

people and magic objects, but in particular an opportunity to

encounter nature coming to life.

Heart-warming legends

of the Trentino area

Opposite page: the Gruppo del Cristallo (Crystal Massif). Top of page from left to right: the Lake of Tovel; vineyards around Arco.

Strudel, the typical dessert of the Trentino area, has ancient

Turkish origins. The recipe underwent variations and was

transformed by the Hungarians into the apple strudel we are

familiar with today which soon spread to Austria. It is not hard

to imagine how the recipe quickly travelled from Austria to

Trentino, where it is now considered the region’s most traditi-

onal dish, partly due to the excellent apples grown in the area.

Apples are the crucial ingredient of the filling of this pastry roll

which also contains raisins, pine nuts and cinnamon.

The Turks and apples

«

Trento, a city with a thousand different faces

Province: Trento

Altitude: 194 m asl

Inhabitants: 117 070

Tourist information:

Azienda per il turismo Trento, Monte Bondone,

Valle dei Laghi

Piazza della Portella, 3

www.apt.trento.it

jestic height of 41 metres. The main monument in the square

is the eighteenth century fountain of Neptune, the symbol

of the plentiful supply of water available to the city. Another

symbol of the city is the so-called Wheel of Fortune, the large

rose window in the northern transept of the cathedral where

the historic Council of Trent, the bastion of the Counter-Refor-

mation, was held between 1545 and 1563.

It is worth visiting the amazing Castle of Buonconsiglio, the

largest and most important monumental complex of Trenti-

no-South Tyrol which, with its mighty walls and towers built

over fi ve centuries, houses exceptional collections of art works.

The frescoes in the Torre Aquila, with the portrayal of the Twelve

Months, represent one of the most fascinating painting cycles

of the late Middle Ages. An alternative itinerary for discover-

ing the city is to follow the frescoed façades of the sixteenth

century buildings along the historic road between the Castle

of Buonconsiglio and piazza del Duomo. Along this street the

Renaissance blends in harmoniously with other architectural

styles which, together with the traces of Roman Trento, docu-

ment the history of the city.

Trento, with Palazzo delle Albere, is also one of the premises

of MART, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Trento e Rov-

ereto. The museum is an international showcase of art from

Futurism to the present day, with particular attention devoted

to new artists and educational initiatives linked to art. A com-

pletely different experience is offered by the Museo Triden-tino di Scienze Naturali, the city’s natural history museum

with sections devoted to biodiversity and geology, which ex-

plore the origins of the Dolomite area, explaining the reason

for the famous proverb “the place where the Dolomites now

stand was once sea”.

A lowland city surrounded by mountains, Trento benefi ts from

the presence of the lush green mountains just as a house ben-

efi ts from its garden. The city’s character, the openness typical

of urban centres in the plains, contrasts only slightly with the

reserved nature of the typical mountain town: this makes Tren-

to a lively place to visit in any season of the year. Everything

revolves around piazza del Duomo, the heart of the city,

which was once the centre of religious and civic power, and

is still today the main meeting place of the city. The square

is dominated by two magnifi cent buildings: the extraordinary

Romanesque Cathedral, dedicated to St. Vigilius, which can be

explored by visiting the underground archaeological exca-vations beneath the paleochristian basilica dedicated to the

saint, and the Palazzo Pretorio (town hall) with the medieval

Municipal Tower which looks down on the city from the ma-

15

Opposite page, from the top: Trento, the fountain of Neptune and the Castle of Buonconsiglio. On this page, from the top: kayaking on the river Noce; trekking on the Dolomites.

Fun and adventurefor all the family

So it’s just a question of gloves, a helmet, harnesses, pulleys

and snap-hooks and then … go and have fun!

It isn’t necessary to walk high above the ground to discov-

er the area! There are plenty of routes organised by various

associations of mountain guides that will satisfy young peo-

ple’s desire to be active, play and have fun together while

learning to discover nature and the mountain environment

with its rich wildlife. From this point of view, the mountain

becomes even more stimulating, fun and educational! Es-

pecially on foot, during walks and trekking, but also when

cycling (various centres offer downhill and mountain bike

activities). There is even the opportunity to “ride” the rapids

of the Avisio and Roldone rivers and the river Noce with

rafting, hydrospeed activities, canyoning and kayaking!

In this case, the essentials include a helmet, swimming cos-

tume, wetsuit, life belt and a rubber dinghy... and off you go!

Where to? To Pera, Campitello and Pozza di Fassa, to Arco and

to Ponte Rosso–Carisolo, but also to Masi di Cavalese, San

Martino di Castrozza and Malè. In Centa San Nicolò there is

one of the most well-equipped parks of its kind in Trentino

(Acropark), while in Val di Breguzzo there is the largest ad-

venture park in the area (Breg Adventure Park). Visitors can

choose Tuenno in the heart of the Adamello Brenta Nature

Reserve, or Commezzadura in Val di Sole, Tres in Val di Non,

Molveno on the plateau of Pradel. There are also the towns of

Madonna di Campiglio, Polsa di Brentonico, Vason and Ziano

di Fiemme. Lastly, our tip for a truly breathtaking adventure:

the sledge run on the Alpine Coaster monorail (in Predazzo

Gardonè), rollercoasters at their most mountainous!

Any mention of tarzaning, agility forest adventure park,

Tibetan bridges, log-rolling, spider nets and action ad-venture in the heart of the Dolomites just serves to high-

light the area’s natural vocation for active holidays and

family tourism. There are more than 20 adventure parks

in Trentino which provide people of all ages with ex-

citement, fun and the first chance to experience moun-

tain sports. Everything is organised according to strin-

gent safety requirements with the expert assistance of

the staff and mountain guides. You will need to pluck up

your courage to cross a river hanging in the air or on sus-

pended rope bridges, or to take a daring leap into space!

There are technological versions or more natural versions:

tarzaning, for example, refers to walking between trees using

ropes (which can also be called “lianas” to stay in a suitably

“wild” context), completely in harmony with the forest envi-

ronment, following a series of breathtaking acrobatic aerial

paths. Visitors can also begin “with their heads in the clouds”

and slide down to the ground to get a real rush of adrena-

lin carefully gauged to the age of the participants who can

choose among Kid Adventure trails, suitable for small chil-

dren, Junior trails and paths suitable for adults and “Braves

Only”, only advisable for the most daring. The great range of

activities also includes the monorail, with the sledge, offer-

ing incredibly steep descents and 360 degree turns providing

spectacular views of the Trentino fir forests. There are also

facilities for anyone interested in learning to climb; these in-

clude climbing gyms and vie ferrate (iron paths) to have an

initial contact and the right training for these types of sport.

16

Lago diGarda

With an area of 370 km2, it is the

largest Italian lake. It is called

Benàco, but mostly known by

everyone as Lake Garda.

A connecting point between the three regions,

Lombardia (the Brescia side), Veneto (the Verona

side) and Trentino-South Tyrol (the tip to the

north), it is developed in parallel to the river

Adige, which is divided by the massif of Monte

Baldo, and a favourite destination for European

tourists. To attract them, the Mediterranean

climate, the wide range of entertainment and

sports, the wellness oasis, the cuisine and the many

artistic and archaeological sites. In short, that air

of holidays that you breathe in all year round.

A small sea among

the mountains LAKE GARDA

17

The towns on the shores of this small sea, with mild

temperatures and bright sunshine, wedged between the

mountains in the north and the hills to the south, can be joined

by an imaginary line that follows the paths of wine and oil. The now historic productions from the Riviera of Olives,

in fact, have always characterised the landscape of the area,

tenaciously keeping up with the ever growing demand for

tourist services. You will encounter the grapes of the classic

Bardolino wine, olives protected by the consortium that

guarantees the quality of extra virgin oil from Garda, but also

the white and yellow-fl eshed peaches, plums from Dro and the

kiwis from the plain of Affi .

Going down the west bank of the lake, the mountain with its

overhanging rocks is undisputed master until after Gargnano.

Here the landscape, rich with its olive groves spread on

different levels, transforms in the Regional Park of Alto Garda Bresciano, with the characteristic structures of the

citrus groves that have made the lake famous in the past.

Today, the production has mostly demonstration purposes; it

is up to the enthusiast to search among the numerous small

structures that allow you to enjoy some genuine lemons or

citrons. Being in the mountains, and overlooking the “sea”,

you can not miss out on Garda cheese with all its varieties,

hard or soft, mature or fresh. And the truffl es, with the best

varieties growing wild. In Salò, a pretty and colourful town

that recalls the fascist epic, the food industry has known how

to take advantage of this production: it was here that the citron

was invented.

Changing bank, the lake is transformed into a sort of Nordic

fjord: leaving behind the towns of Garda and Torri del Benàco

and continuing on the eastern shore, you start to climb up Monte Baldo, where the olive trees give way to alpine vegetation.

The so-called “Botanical Garden of Europe”, reached by

cable car from Malcesine and which offers breathtaking views

of the lake, combines the typical products of the forest and

undergrowth (such as chestnuts and mushrooms) with high

level production: goat cheese, honey, herbs and medicinal

plants used to produce the typical teas.

Returning to the lake, as you would expect, it is the fi sh that

dominates the culinary tradition, with the return of the old

traditional fl avours.

The lake becomes a sea, Sirmione dominates with its

charm, full of history and poetry, with the suggestion of the

archaeological remains of the Grotte di Catullo, with the

pride of the castle, with the spas that have made its fortune

since the end of the nineteenth century. Beyond Desenzano del Garda, the hills towards Lonato del Garda, Castiglione

delle Stiviere and Solferino resonate echoes of the battles of

the Risorgimento. From the vineyards in this area, three great

Garda white wines are also produced: San Martino, Lugana

and Bianco di Custoza.

Whichever area of Lake Garda you choose, the option open to

the tourist is complete because it will appeal to lovers of nature

as well as lovers of the sea and the hills.

Common denominator: the good food, the taste of tradition

and the truly unique oasis of products that we would never

imagine to fi nd in this part of Italy, but which represent the

excellence of the three regions bordering this stretch of water

which is there to be discovered.

Delights and beauty

by the lake

Manca dida manca dida

Opposite page: view of Lake Garda with Monte Baldo in the background.

Above from left to right: vineyards near Pastrengo;

the Telegrafo Refuge on Monte Baldo; the Scaligera castle in Sirmione.

Below: a pier overlooking the lake.

18

«

Riva The pearl of Garda Trentino

was built to guard the port and the square, a former hub of

commerce and trade. Since 2002, after the restoration, it has

been possible to climb the 165 steps leading to its summit, to

enjoy the geometry of the square and the pier that become lost

in the blue of the lake. Traces of antiquity can also be seen in

the Palazzo Pretorio, in which Roman, medieval and modern

stones are located making it possible to trace the history of the

village and the lake.

In the shadow of baroque churches and Mediterranean

vegetation, intellectuals such as Friedrich Nietzsche, Franz

Kafka and the brothers Thomas and Heinrich Mann took

inspiration for their works that have marked the history of

philosophy and European literature: on the other hand, Lake

Garda was a must for the young people of Central Europe who

undertook the Grand Tour!

The pearl of Garda Trentino: Riva del Garda, with its

Mediterranean climate, great beaches and beautiful landscape,

is the resort par excellence. Here sport is the main reason for

the holiday: sailing and windsurfi ng above all, thanks to the

warm winds that blow constantly, but also walking, cycling

and mountain biking. Lemons, olives and palm trees colour

the landscape at the foot of the Brenta Dolomites.

Riva del Garda is also synonymous with art and culture, and a

symbol of the history of the town is the Fortress, fi rst mentioned

in 1124 and which has grown over the centuries: in the sixteenth

century it was a bishop’s residence and in the nineteenth century

became the Austro-Hungarian barracks, almost completely

losing its medieval and Renaissance features.

From the tower, returned to its original state by recent

restorations, you can enjoy a beautiful view of the lake. The

building now houses the Civic Museum, with stele statues

from the Copper Age found in the nearby Arco, the remains of

the lake-dwelling Ledro culture and the archaeological fi nds

of all the upper Garda. Meanwhile, in the Art Gallery you

can admire important works such as paintings by Hayez and

sculptures by Vincenzo Vela.

In the historic centre the Apponale Tower also deserves

attention, the old site of the market and the control centre of

the lake. From a height of 34 m it dominates the Piazza III

Novembre and dates back to the thirteenth century, when it

The culinary tradition of Lake Garda is inspired by the cuisi-

ne of the three regions that mark the boundaries: Lombardia,

Trentino-South Tyrol and Veneto. The typical summer dish

is from Veneto itself: the bigoi co le aole, i.e. spaghetti cold-

drawn through a press with the pickled bleak fi sh. A simple

dish, fl avoured with a strong taste of the minnows from the

lake preserved in salt, which are fried in oil to create a tasty

and very traditional fi sh sauce. Naturally the bigoli pasta is

boiled in water with a pinch of salt! Other local varities in-

clude bigoli al ragù di pesce (fi sh sauce), bigoli con le sardèle

(sardines), bigoli alla gardesana. The substance does not

change, they are always a delight!

Province: Trentino

Altitude: 65 m asl

Inhabitants: 16,170

Tourist information:

Ingarda Trentino - Azienda per il Turismo

Largo Medaglie D’Oro Al Valor Militare, 5

Tel. +39 0464 554 444

www.gardatrentino.it

A dish ... on loan

This page: two views of Riva del Garda.

19

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For a holiday...made for all the family

Terminator 5 in 5D, U-571 Submarine, the house of horrors and

the scream-filled descent from the Hollywood Action Tower.

If you prefer water parks, here you’ll be spoiled for choice. The

largest is Caneva Aquapark, structured in the same way as

Movieland (Family, Adventure, Action sections).

Nestled in the green hills of Verona, in a natural area of 64,000

square metres, the sports centre and water park Picoverde di

Custoza offers tranquillity for adults and an area with water

slides for children.

Founded in 1978, the Parco Acquatico Cavour in Valeggio sul

Mincio offers Water Lagoon, the beach Mare, the wellness route,

the event ship Camillo Show, the Paradise Island completely

carved into the rock with slides and pools on different levels,

the area Magic Sand devoted to sand castles and Iceberg, where

you can slide in the Ice Age.

There are, finally, some opportunities for those who want

to venture between vines, Canadian bridges and air routes:

tourists can enjoy the new Parco Avventura in San Zeno di

Montagna, the Parco Natura Viva in Bussolengo (zoo and

safari) and the wonderful Parco Giardino Sigurtà in Valeggio

sul Mincio, one of the most extraordinary in the world for the

blooms of the tulips, roses and water lilies, including hedge

mazes and endless grassy plains to cross on foot or by bicycle.

Something for the whole family!

Descents at high speed, breathtaking drops, scenes from

movies, amazing gardens: Lake Garda and its surroundings

offer the opportunity to experience unique emotions with a

wide range of theme parks.

The most famous is Gardaland located in Castelnuovo del

Garda, with its 600,000 square metres of extension, full of

attractions for all ages, shows and themed villages divided

into the Adrenaline, Fantasy and Adventure sections. The first

category includes the famous Blue Tornado and Space Vertigo,

thrilling experiences of speed and changes in height: they

are two of the busiest rides. In the Fantasy category, the fairy

tales are unforgettable: Peter Pan, Kaffeetassen and l’Albero di Prezzemolo are just three of the many attractions of this type.

Those who love adventure, however, can not miss the classic

Ramses: il Risveglio, the “refreshing” Jungle Rapids or I Corsari.Within the entertainment complex Canevaworld, in Lazise

sul Garda, there is instead Movieland, a completely “cinema”

themed park! Also here the attractions

follow three different lines: Family,

for kids, Adventure, for the whole

family, and Action, for those who

want to experience great emotions

remembering more frightening films.

If the kids have fun travelling on little

cars around the circuit of the legendary

Route 66, the older ones can enter Magma 2 in trucks, to become protagonists of

Police Academy, dive into the London of

1907 with The Illusionist, or get closer

to the missions of Zorro and Rambo.

Stuntmen and special effects are

guaranteed! Finally, the most fearless

are reserved the emotions of Tomb Rider,

This page, clockwise from left: riding mountain bikes on Monte Brione,

near Riva del Garda, and two views of the Gardaland amusement park.

20

LombardiaAs well as being the economic heartland of Italy, Lombardy has been a destination for high quality tourism since the seventeenth century. The

region extends from the Alps to the wine-producing hills, from the large lakes to its rivers and canals, to the agricultural plain and the urban area of Milan: this is Lombardy, with its varied landscape and many different historical, artistic and productive traditions. The region has much to offer for different types of tourist, people travelling for work and business reasons or for people who are passionate nature-lovers or wish to follow the traces of literary fi gures. There are also opportunities to swim in the lakes as well as a wide range of activities in the fi elds of culture, fashion, art and design, not to mention the trade shows and other important events. Visitors also have the chance to explore the rural traditions of the plain of Lombardy. LOMBARDY

A region with a thousand

21

Observing the region from south to north, the mixture of dif-

ferent types of landscape emerges very clearly. The starting

point is the Oltrepò area at the southernmost tip of the region;

as its name suggests, Oltrepò lies to the south of Italy’s most

important river which, for most of its course, marks the bound-

ary between Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna. Oltrepò, which

has links with Pavia to the west and Mantua to the east, is as-

sociated with the tradition of vine cultivation and wine-mak-

ing in the hills, offering a fascinating experience to tourists

who are interested in food and wine, especially if they enjoy

traveling by bicycle or motorbike: the so-called “vineyard trail”

in the Pavia area, which mainly passes through the Versa and

Scuropasso valleys, is ideal for admiring the long and splendid

rows of vines which form perfect geometrical patterns on the

hill slopes.

The trail passes through many small towns and villages, stud-

ded with wineries, holiday farmhouses and restaurants where

visitors can relax and enjoy local food and wine traditions to

the full. You only need to go slightly further north to reach the

old capital of the Lombard kingdom: the city with the famous

roofed bridge, Pavia, which the Romans used to call Ticinum

(the name refers to its location where the Ticino flows into the

river Po). Pavia is not the only Lombard city that can boast a

thousand year history: Cremona was the scene of many im-

portant events in medieval times and has some beautiful and

striking monuments, such as the city hall known as “il Torrazzo”

and the architectural complex of the Cathedral and the Baptis-

tery; Mantua, with its splendid palaces (Palazzo Ducale and

Palazzo Te), can take tourists on a fascinating journey straight

into the age of the splendour, art and pomp of the Gonzagas;

Brescia has an extraordinary archaeological site called San-

ta Giulia which has become an extremely popular destination

and is the subject of a prestigious museum display; Bergamo,

the city split in two, is still to this day accompanied by the hun-

dred tolls of the bell in the tower in Piazza Vecchia in Bergamo

Alta; the bell tolls each day at 10.00 pm marked the closure of

the city gates.

The list of places of interest, both large and small, is almost

endless; every town and city in Lombardy has an ancient his-

tory which is borne out by the importance and productivity

of the region. Between the fifth and sixth century BC, a city

was founded in the heart of the plain of Lombardy; its Latin

name was Mediolanum, and, under its modern name, Milan,

the economic capital of Italy. Further to the north, the land-

scape is totally different: the cultivated areas of the plain lead

to the hill country which heralds the Alps and delights visitors

with its stunning lakes. From Lake Maggiore, you come to

the delightful lakes of Varesotto, before immerging yourself

in the pages of history of Lake Como. Visitors to Lake Iseo

will be astonished at the sight of the largest lake island, Mon-

tisola, and will be equally stunned by Lake Garda, an area

with a Mediterranean climate wedged between the mountains.

The varied landscapes of Lombardy end with the Alpine peaks,

the destination of winter sports throughout the year, with the

famous towns of Livigno, Bormio and Santa Caterina Val-furva, fashionable resorts surrounded by large nature reserves

and valleys, such as Valtellina and Val Camonica, which bear

the archaeological traces left by their ancient inhabitants.

From the plains to the

mountains: places of artistic,

natural and historical interest

Opposite page: a view of Bergamo. Above, from left to right: the Po Valley in the province of Brescia; Piazza Duomo in Cremona; mountain cycling around Livigno.

A thousand places, a thousand tastesThe landscape is incredibly varied and the many different culi-

nary traditions reflect these differences: the quintessential sym-

bol of Lombardy is the golden risotto which takes its name from

the rice-growing plain that stretches from Milan to the areas of

Lomellina, the area around Pavia and towards Novara and Ver-

celli. Visitors can travel up into the

valleys to discover a series of tradi-

tional dishes that are influenced by

mountain traditions, from special

pasta called pizzoccheri to the fa-

mous polenta. There is also a chance

to taste the specialities of the lakes

where dishes are based on fresh-

water fish and olives and “Mediterranean” olive oil. The food is

accompanied by excellent wines of Lombardy (the best wines are

made by the wineries of Oltrepò Pavese and Franciacorta).

22

«

Milan, a metropolis with a thousand-year old history

Province: Milan

Altitude: 122 m asl

Inhabitants: 1 348 769

Tourist information: IAT

Piazza Castello, 1 corner Via Beltrami

Tel +39 02 7740 4343

Central railway station Departure area -

platforms 13/14 - Tel +39 02 7740 4318/4319

www.milano.turismo.it

passing by the Imperial Palace of Maximilian, the necropolises in the

courtyards of the Catholic University, the Baths, the streets and the

numerous ruins that emerged during the excavations to build the

underground railway lines. It is also worth visiting the medieval and

renaissance city of Milan, which begins from the Romanesque basil-

ica par excellence, the basilica of St. Ambrose, with its gabled façade

and the colonnaded courtyard, and ends up with the Sforza Castle,

which now includes some of the city’s museums. Moreover, visitors

can discover the technological side of Milan whose origins can be

traced back to the fi fteenth century plan of the Canals (Navigli) de-

signed by Leonardo da Vinci when he was in the court of Ludwig the

Moor, which now aspires to events and creations with increasingly

“smart” technology (thanks partly to the planned event EXPO 2015).

The Navigli (the name used for the canals of Milan) are now un-

dergoing major redevelopment for the purposes of tourism, as well

as becoming the location for trendy nightlife. Visitors can continue

following the trail of Leonardo by seeing the Last Supper (Cenacolo),

one of the key symbols of Italian art in the world, the Ambrosian

Library where the Atlantic Code is kept, and the National Museum of Science and Technology with the reconstructions of machines

designed by Leonardo. The exploration of Milan continues century

by century, topic by topic, and character by character, from the site

of the siege of the bakery described by Alessandro Manzoni in the

Promessi sposi - The Betrothed (it is also possible to visit Manzoni’s

house with the adjoining museum) to the portraits by Hayez on dis-

play in the Pinacoteca di Brera (art gallery), from the Monumental

Cemetery to the modern setting of contemporary sculpture in Piaz-

zale Cadorna. There is also the Nuovo Polo Fieristico (Trade show

complex) in Milan (built in Rho in the north-western outskirts of the

city), the shopping streets (the so-called “Quadrilatero della moda”

or “four-sided shopping district”), the fashion shows, the art exhibi-

tions, and the streets associated with nightlife. This is Milan.

It has been defi ned as “Milan to drink up” and the “capital of fashion

and design”. However, the city was also the capital of the Roman

empire, as well as host to the most important political and religious

powers, until it eventually became the fi nancial centre of Italy. Mi-

lan’s importance (it is the second largest Italian city after Rome) is

symbolised by the statue of the “Madonnina”, on the highest spire

of the Duomo, the city’s cathedral. This inspired Milan’s unoffi cial

anthem Oh mia bela Madunina, the folk song that has given world-

wide fame to the city’s core values, its frenetic activity and careful

solidarity: “Milàn l’è ’n gran Milàn” (Milan is a great Milan). Besides

the Duomo, the city’s symbols include the Biscione, the symbol of the

Visconti family who ruled the city and the surrounding region for

many centuries during the Middle Ages: a dragon in the shape of a

snake with a young boy in its mouth, which gave rise to many leg-

ends and stories about the origin and the events of the city in ancient

times. Visitors can choose different ways of visiting Milan. There is

the archaeological approach to the city which begins from beneath

Piazza Duomo and eventually reaches the Columns of San Lorenzo,

Above: the Needle and Thread sculpture in Piazza Cadorna. Below: Piazza Duomo.

23

known as “la Rotonda” due to the elliptical shape of the central

room which protrudes from the rest of the building. At the end

of the walk, you encounter the sight of the most illustrious of

all the neoclassical villas, Villa Olmo, built by Marchese Odes-

calchi in neoclassical style and now the property of the council,

which organises prestigious conferences and exhibitions.

Apart from the worldly pleasures of the past and present, the

lush coastline has an aura of history, such as the small town

of Brenno or the small island of Comacina, which in medieval

times housed the castle which was allied with Milan during the

long war against Como. Olives grow plentifully on the island,

so that the bay is known as “Zoca de l’oli” (“valley of olive oil”).

The Sacro Monte di Ossuccio – a religious complex and UN-

ESCO World Heritage Site together with other Sacri Monti in

Lombardy and Piedmont - overlooks this side of the lake. The

complex contains 230 statues made of terracotta and stucco

arranged in 15 chapels devoted to the mysteries of the Rosary

which lead to the Shrine of Our Lady of Succour (Santuario

della Beata Vergine del Soccorso).

The unusual shape of Lake Como has always stimulated the

imagination of the local inhabitants, to the extent that it has

been described as “a man with one leg in Lecco and another in

Como, his nose in Domaso and his backside in Bellagio”. The

wonderful natural environment is unspoilt by human interven-

tion and provides the perfect place for a relaxing holiday. There

are many opportunities to take part in a wide range of activi-

ties, from water sports (sailing, scuba diving, windsurfing and

water skiing) to mountain sports (trekking, free climbing), as

well as many outdoor and indoor sports that exploit the morn-

ing wind from the north (known as “il

Tivano”) and the afternoon wind from

the south (known as “la Breva”). Most

places are well-equipped from this

point of view and the sporting ethos

is extremely important in the area, as

can be seen from the numerous facil-

ities and a longstanding tradition of

athletes who have established a world-

wide reputation.

Made famous by celebrities (from the worlds of cinema and

politics) who in recent decades have chosen it as the ideal

place for their holiday homes, Lake Como boasts a much old-

er tradition of hospitality for the “stars”: it is necessary to go

back in time to find illustrious visitors to the area; they in-

cluded the scions of the leading aristocratic families of Europe

and artists, from painters and poets to musicians (Stendhal,

Byron and Liszt just to mention a few) who came for the cus-

tomary “Journey to Italy”. These visitors stopped off at Lake

Como during the Grand Tour, the journey undertaken by the

young nobles of continental Europe towards the south where,

immersed in the sunshine and the aura of history, they could

get inspiration and enjoy the beneficial effects of the Italian

climate. It is hardly surprising to find the coastline of this lake,

with its curious upturned Y-shape, dotted with large, sumptu-

ous villas with a romantic appearance: the monumental Villa d’Este, Villa Erba and Villa Pizzo in Cernobbio, the elegant

Villa Serbelloni and Villa Melzi in Bellagio. In Lenno, be-

side the so-called “Bay of Venus”, stands Villa Balbianello, one

of the many buildings that is part of FAI (Italian National

Trust Fund) where scenes from the films Piccolo Mondo Antico

and Casino Royale were shot.

In Tremezzo, one of the classic sites of interest is Villa Carlotta with its splendid garden and the museum that contains works

by Canova and Hayez.

The city of Como offers a two hour walk along the lakeshore

which is overlooked by numerous neoclassical residences built

between the eighteenth and nineteenth centry, including Vil-la Saporiti, now the premises of the provincial government,

Lake Como,the pleasure residences

Above: Villa d’Este in Cernobbio.

Left: a view of Bellagio.

24

VenetoThe most beautiful mountain peaks in

the world, the most extensive uplands

of Italy, fascinating itineraries

through fortifi ed medieval villages

and vineyards. But there are also great art cities

and the medieval or renaissance atmospheres

of local festivals, art treasures and prestigious

theatre events. And what about its waterways,

with river tourism that goes from one Palladian

villa to another, Lake Garda that looks onto this

region and the Po delta with its unique natural

environment waiting to be explored by bicycle,

as well as the sea coast and beaches offering all

the fun and charm typical of the lagoon towns. In

brief, this is Veneto: now discover it for yourself!

A kaleidoscope of emotions

VENETO

25

Called the Upland “of the Seven Communes”, but also known

as the upland of Asiago after the name of its main town: this is

the most extensive upland in Italy and occupies the Vicenza Alps,

marking the border with the region of Trentino. In ancient times,

a large part of this territory used to be subdivided into seven di-

stricts organized as an independent federation (the most ancient

social organization in the world comparable to a modern federal

state) called the Spettabile Reggenza dei Sette Comuni (the Ho-

nourable Regency of the Seven Communes) which, up until the

advent of Napoleon, gravitated around the influence of Venice.

Today, the Communes are now eight and come under the provin-

cial government of Vicenza.

History enthusiasts will find in Veneto a great open air museum of First World War sites: in fact, an important trekking excursion

has been organized with the support of a number of historical as-

sociations grouped under the “1915/18 Open Air Museums - First

World War on Monte Grappa” Association, whose headquarters is

in Romano d’Ezzelino. Indeed, in recent years, numerous objects

dating back to the First World War have been recovered, parti-

cularly in Valle Santa Felicita where the excursion begins, in Col

Campeggia and in Col Andreon. The natural point of arrival of

this long challenging walk is the Military Shrine of Cima Grappa,

where the remains of over 10,000 war victims are buried.

Travelling south, the landscape changes radically when you start

to penetrate the six hectares of the San Donà di Piave fluvial park, a natural oasis on the left bank of the river Piave whose

landscape reflects the spontaneous growth of shrubs and clusters

of riverside trees which confer an uncontaminated and natural

aspect to the area. About 40 years ago, this natural complex was

originally covered with the residual stubs of poplars used for

industrial purposes and was subsequently replanted with more

wood producing poplars, a surrounding border of black locust

trees and a wood of white poplar, black poplar, plane trees and

white willow, thanks to a natural reforestation process. Equipped

with river moorings and boat towing facilities (from San Donà it

is possible to navigate as far as the mouth of the river Piave), the

Park offers rough paths and playing fields, as well as leisure and

picnic areas. For those interested in the history of this land, the

excursion can take in a visit to the Regional Land Reclamation

Museum “Ca’ Vendramin” which describes the transformation of

this territory from ancient times to the present day. Finally, with

its many ramifications and lagoons, the Po Delta makes a distin-

ctive mark on the vast territory of the Province of Rovigo which

looks out onto the Adriatic sea. This area is one of the vastest wet-

lands in Europe, 120 sq km of which are protected by the Po Delta

Regional Park of Veneto. At just a short distance away, for those

seeking an original and intense experience, the Adria racing cir-

cuit with its Adria International Raceway is within easy reach.

Any description of Veneto must necessarily include its art cities:

the mere mention of Verona, Padua, Vicenza, Treviso, Rovigo and

Belluno will show how art and history may constitute an intere-

sting leitmotiv for exploring this region, from its uplands to the

lagoon, casting a fascinated glance at its gigantic mountains as

you travel through the hills. Verona, the city of love and theatre:

the Arena, together with Juliet’s house, attracts millions of visitors

every year. Likewise Padua, with its numerous visitors, where the

Basilica of Saint Anthony is the destination of a constant and fre-

quent stream of pilgrims coming from all over Italy and abroad.

The other towns in the region are strikingly elegant and hospi-

table, thanks to centuries of transformation and an ever growing

offering of tourist hospitality services.

From the Uplands to the

Lagoon: corners of Veneto

waiting to be discovered

In the area of Asiago during the First World War, the eighte-

en-year-old future Nobel prizewinner for literature, Ernest

Hemingway, worked as an ambulance driver: he was enrol-

led as a volunteer by the US Red Cross, and was appointed

to the IV Section of the US International Red Cross with the

Lanificio Cazzola in Schio. Wounded in battle, Hemingway

was decorated with the silver Medal of Military Valor and

the American War Merit Cross for having rescued other

wounded soldiers, after being hit himself. His novel Farewell

to Arms was inspired by his experience in Veneto and his

hospital recovery in Milan.

A Nobel Prizewinner

on the Upland

Opposite page: the Lake of Auronzo. Top of page from left to right: Asiago; a trench on the Dolomites; Chioggia.

26

Walled cities and cities on water

To admire the best preserved city walls of Italy, you have to go to

Castelfranco Veneto. It is one of the so-called “walled cities”,

those medieval towns that are still steeped in the atmosphere

of a glorious past. When you stroll through its narrow streets at

dusk, the illuminated castle is a fairytale presence, contributing

to augment the mythical aura surrounding this town, which also

derives from its having been the birthplace of the enigmatic and

extraordinary artist, Giorgione, in the fi fteenth century.

Pieve di Cadore, on the other hand, situated at the farthest

point north of the region, is the most important town of the

entire Cadore and the birthplace of the painter Tiziano Vecellio.

The Cadore area, as well as being the most direct route towards

the Dolomite peaks, is known worldwide for its eyewear pro-

duction and in Pieve itself stands the Eyewear Museum, where

splendid collections are showcased to narrate the history of this

invaluable aid from the Middle Ages to the present day. Getting

back to the walled cities, Cittadella also preserves its city walls

intact, whose irregular elliptical shape is broken by as many as

36 towers! Of these, the Tower of Malta (today the premises of

an archaeological museum) is even mentioned by Dante in the

Divine Comedy.

From art and literature, let’s take a look at history: in the fa-

scinating landscape of the Euganei Hills, Este was the main

settlement of the ancient inhabitants of Veneto in the Iron Age

but still preserves visible fortifi ed traces of domination, fi rst by

the Este family and later by the Carraresi. Then, the place where

Carlo Goldini, the famous playwright, made his stage debut is

Feltre, a town perched on a hill, which hosts the old “Teatro

de la Sena”. During the fi rst week of August, the little town

provides the backdrop for an enthralling palio which enacts its

spontaneous submission to the Republic of Venice. Leaning on

the piedmont fl at that extends towards the Brenta river, stands

the town of Marostica with its city walls linking the upper and

lower castles, and forming a panoramic walk known as Sentiero

dei Carmini (the Carmini footpath). The highest expression of

tradition in this town is the famous Game of Chess played with

living personages, the enactment of a medieval event which

takes place every two years on the second Friday, Saturday

On this page, from the top: Feltre; Burano. Opposite page, from the top: theatre performance at the Arena in Verona; the Castle of Soave; Villa Almerico Capra in Vicenza.

27

and Sunday of September, inspired by the legend of two noble

warriors who, in the mid-15th century, both fell in love with a

beautiful chatelaine and challenged each other to a game of

chess, since duelling was forbidden. Finally, Soave, enclosed

by walls erected by the Scaligeri, is famous for its white wine

made from the garganega grapes cultivated on the surrounding

hills, which is celebrated in May during the “Medieval Festival

of Soave white wine”.

And of course, there is no shortage in Veneto of cities on wa-

ter: Venice the “Serenissima”, is just one of them! Chioggia is

“the other Venice”, which experiences the same phenomenon

of high tide and stands on a sort of island intersected by nar-

row streets, squares and canals, the most important of which

is the Canal Vena.

In Bassano del Grappa, the Bridge of the Alpini is a famous

landmark, and the subject of a famous alpine song; this all-

wooden structure was designed by Palladio so that it would be

flexible enough to withstand the river Brenta in flood, and was

rebuilt after the Second World War.

28

Venice, the eternally splendid “Serenissima”

Venice is mirrored in the Lagoon water and its refl ection enrap-

tures visitors, for the beauty of its streets and its canal bridges,

for the colours that dialogue between sky and water, for the

crowds that throng to monuments and artworks of immense

importance, for the picturesque impact of gondolas and gon-

doliers. St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco), the throbbing

heart of this city, takes its name from the famous Basilica of St. Mark, built in an oriental style with its traditional gilded

mosaics and surmounted by fi ve Byzantine cupolas. The vast

square opens up towards the lagoon on one side and is delimi-

ted on its other sides by the high bell tower and the fi ne histo-

rical buildings of the Old and New Procuratie and the Doge’s

Palace (Palazzo Ducale).

At just a short distance away, stands the elegant and not-to-

be-missed Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri), which is a

compulsory stop on the romantic gondola rides which always

go up the Grand Canal and through the entire city. The main

waterway is crossed by the Rialto Bridge (Ponte di Rialto), the symbol of this city, characterized by colourful artisanal

workshops and one of the busiest points in town with the

constant coming and going of tourists. Visitors have to expe-

rience Venice on foot, by getting lost in its intricate maze of

narrow streets, in the ups and downs of bridges, to discover

the Baroque treasures of Santa Maria della Salute and the

Academy Galleries which house the masterpieces of 14th

and 18th century Venetian artists, and the School of St. Roc-

co with its extraordinary collection of works by Tintoretto.

But Venice also stands for modern, contemporary and avant-

garde art, as testifi ed by the events put on in Palazzo Grassi

and at the Venice Biennial.

Summer in the city offers plenty of opportunities: from visiting

art collections to climbing the bell tower to take in the breathta-

king view of the intricate weave of narrow streets and canals in

the historic town centre. From the Sansovino loggia, just under

the top of the bell tower with its total height of 98.6 metres,

which may be reached in a few seconds by elevator, it is pos-

sible to get a close up view of the Marangona (the largest bell

that announced the start and end of the working day in the do-

ckyard), the Nona (which tolls at midday), the Trottiera (the bell

that used to call the nobles to council meetings) the Pregadì

(that announced Senate meetings) and the Renghiera (whose

sole purpose was to announce capital executions).

29

««Province: Venice

Altitude: 2,54 m asl

Inhabitants: 269.743

Tourist information:

Tourist Board Palazzetto Carmagnani - San Marco, 2637

Tel. +39 041 5298711 - www.turismovenezia.it

It is possible to catch the ferryboat and take in the three marvel-

lous islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello, to admire the

numerous blown glass workshops (on the first), the brightly co-

loured houses with their displays of white lace (on the second),

and the extraordinary Romanic complex of Santa Maria Assunta

and Santa Fosca (on the third). Then, if you happen to be in town

on the third Sunday of July, you will be lucky enough to see the

Feast of the Redeemer, which combines religion with folklore,

thanks to a firework display that attracts thousands of visitors

on Saturday night: in the incomparable setting of St. Mark’s

Basin, the play of light and reflections trace a kaleidoscope of

colours standing out against the spires, cupolas and steeples of

the city. According to tradition, at sunset, boats decorated with

greenery, coloured balloons and fairy lights, start to gather in the

Basin of St. Marks and the Canal of the Giudecca, dominated by

a Palladian Church built in 1577, to thank the Redeemer for the

end of the plague.

Cinema enthusiasts cannot possibly miss the Internatio-nal Cinema Festival at the start of September, with its film

projections, a great contest, tributes to the outstanding names

of cinema history and, why not, the chance to glimpse some

VIPs on the red carpet; all of which is topped by the possibi-

lity to enjoy the fashionable city beach, the Lido, whose first

bathing establishment, set among natural sand dunes, dates

back to 1857.

Besides, on the first Sunday in September, how could you miss

the Historical Regatta, in which the century-old “Venetian

rowing” technique is put to the test in a series of four compe-

titions (subdivided by age group and type of boat); the most

renowned and exciting of these is the regatta of gondola cham-

pions who dart down the Grand Canal towards the finishing line

in front of the famous “machine”, a spectacular floating platform

positioned in front of the Ca’ Foscari palace. The regatta is even

more spectacular today with a historical procession that prece-

des the races: dozens and dozens of typical 16th century multi-

coloured boats take part in a parade with their gondoliers dres-

sed in period costumes, transporting the Doge, his wife and the

most eminent Venetian magistrates, in a faithful reconstruction

of the glorious past of one of the most powerful and influential

Maritime Republics of the Mediterranean.

Opposite page: a view of St. Mark’s Square. On this page, clockwise: the Bridge of Sighs; gondolas going along the Riva degli Schiavoni; the Rialto Bridge.

30

In the name of relaxation and fun

They call it the “gold coast”, for the colour of its endless bea-

ches and the tourist industry that has grown up around it in

the course of the centuries. In fact, millions of tourists arrive

every year from all over Europe to crowd the bathing establi-

shments of Veneto: families with children seeking peace and

quiet and effi cient services, young people and teenagers who

want to live their holiday to the full, all around the clock, sports

enthusiasts and nature lovers, foodies looking to explore new

and traditional fl avours, elderly people who appreciate comfort

and relaxation. Linked together by rows of coloured beach um-

brellas, Rosolina Mare, Jesolo, Eraclea, Porto Santa Margherita,

Caorle and Bibione each have their own distinct identity and

tourist offering but share the same entrepreneurial spirit and

desire to pamper tourists. Rosolina Mare, for instance, which

is located on the edge of the Po Delta region, and very close

to the mouth of the Adige river, has maintained intact its wild

natural environment, similarly to the nearby Island of Alba-rella: midst kilometres of cluster pines and migratory birds,

these stretches of water, which extend as far as the eye can see,

help create the sort of regenerating holiday atmosphere that

is perfect for the more introspective tourist. Once past Veni-

This Venetian dish par excellence, Sarde in Saòr (sardines in

sweet and sour sauce), is an ancient recipe dating back to the

fi fteenth century.

A humble fi shermen’s dish which keeps well thanks to an extra

dose of fl avour: saòr in fact means “fl avour”, that sweet and

sour taste which enhances the humble sardine. You start by gut-

ting and cleaning the fi sh (without removing its tail), and then

go on to dust it in fl our and fry it in peanut oil. Cover the fi sh

with onions from Chioggia,

which you have previously

fried gently in oil and fl a-

voured with sugar, vinegar,

sultanas and pine nuts. Af-

ter a couple of days the saòr

sauce will be just right and

the dish may be served with

slices of white polenta.

Traditional tastes

31

ce with its Lido, you encounter the “Cavallino” coast, dotted

with lively campsites and animated by numerous festivals that

give a “folkloristic” touch to the holiday mood. Then comes Je-solo, characterized by lidos and pinewoods, water sports and

well-organized excursions to the “Serenissima”. Small boats,

fishing nets and cabins made from wood and bamboo cane

(the so-called “casoni”) distinguish the beaches of Caorle, which has successfully combined this traditional aspect with

the more contemporary trend of seaside fitness centres and

numerous discotheques for enjoying a holiday by the sea, day

and night. The Church of Our Lady of the Angel, standing on

the rocks near the sea, recalls the seagoing spirit of the people

of Caorle, who have made their living from fishing for centuri-

es. Those who wish to see this part of the coast from a boat will

find one of the largest ports of the Adriatic sea at Porto Santa Margherita (just a few kilometres from Caorle), with a mo-

oring capacity for 800 vessels, while Duna Verde, the “park”

of Caorle, provides plenty of amusement facilities. In the area

surrounding Caorle the presence of a great Acquapark, a com-

plex built in 1990 in a green oasis, is a real attraction for fami-

lies and young people.

Bibione has a similar landscape, it stands out for its dual tou-

rist offering of relaxation and fun; known as “Tuttaspiaggia”, it

is subdivided into Bibione Spiaggia, Lido del Sole and Bibione

Pineda, and is considered to be the most important seaside re-

sort on the coast of Veneto, located close to the Friuli-Venezia

Giulia border. In proximity to the lighthouse, the symbol of

this town, a very popular spa centre has been running since

1996, where mud bath treatments are dispensed.

At the opposite end of the coast, at Sottomarina di Chiog-gia, no visitor can miss the 10 kilometre walk along the beach

leading to the well-known Isolaverde. All in all, this coastline

offers about 90 kilometres of crystal clear water (a Blue Flag

area since 2010), with beach facilities and services of all kinds,

comprising a wide selection of centres for practising various

sports: windsurf, sailing, diving activities, beach volley, golf,

archery, cycling and horse riding excursions. Wherever you are

on this coast, your evenings will be animated by restaurants,

pizza parlours, pubs, discotheques, lounge bars, penny arca-

des and amusement parks. The ideal beaches for relaxing and

entertaining holidays at a stone’s throw from historical and ar-

tistic treasures of international importance, without forgetting

the delicious traditional cuisine offered by this region.

Opposite page, from the top: the beach of Eraclea Mare; a view of Jesolo and its coast.

Above: a jetty of Chioggia Sottomarina at dusk.

32

Friuli Venezia GiuliaA corner of Italy which in the course

of history has experienced troubled

events, but from each of those

diffi cult times has known how to

obtain lifeblood. Of this past, the territory bears

archaeological, historical, artistic, linguistic and

traditional traces. Friuli-Venezia Giulia, due to its

strategic location, was a place of obligatory passage

and economic and cultural exchange, on the most

wedged gulf in the Adriatic Sea, touched by the

Bora wind, which reaches speeds of more than

160 km/h, protected by the spectacular Dolomite

mountains, with an underground world all to be

discovered. And with cities of art which, over the

centuries, have often breathed “European” air.

At the edges of the territory, in the centre of history

FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA

33

The Celts, Romans and Lombards have passed through. And

then the Venetians and the Habsburgs. The signs of these pas-

sages are visible in the great works of art that still characterise

the large and small cities in the region, with a dense weave of

ages and history. Trieste, the capital, is a cosmopolitan city: it

is not difficult to find evidence from the past and present of the

different religions (Catholics, Orthodoxes, Jews, Evangelicals,

Waldenses). Gorizia is the “garden city”, Pordenone the “city

of porticoes”, while Udine has maintained the elegant appea-

rance of the venetian and liberty city. But it is the smaller cities

that hold some real surprises. Aquileia, for example, is consi-

dered a second Rome in terms of the quantity, quality and size

of the archaeological Roman and paleochristian remains that

are preserved and can be visited: in the basilica is the largest

paleochristian decorative cycle mosaic floor in the whole West!

And while we are on this subject, Spilimbergo is home to

the Friuli Mosaic School, known throughout the world for the

refinement of its production. The Lombard temple of Cividale

is amazing and truly unique, a jewel of eighth century AD art

with ancient frescoes, elaborate stucco decorations and diffe-

rent registers of high - reliefs that make it unique: justifiable

pomp, if you think that Cividale was home to the first Lombard

Duchy of Italy. Still in Cividale you can take a leap back seve-

ral centuries: not so far from the little temple, in fact, visitors

can admire a Celtic Hypogeum consisting of several connected

rooms, underground, cut into the rock, containing three my-

sterious stone masks that represent faces and the recesses in

which the urns of high ranking people were placed.

For other pleasant surprises you should go to Sesto al Reghena

where there is an air of the Middle Ages (the Abbey is a real jew-

el of medieval architecture) or Palmanova, a fortress city with

nine points, or Venzone, a fortified village dominated by the

castle but made famous due to the many mummies found in the

crypt of the former chapel of San Michele, in front of the Duo-

mo: today we can observe five, but originally there were almost

forty. The first discovery, in 1647, was that of the “Hunchback” mummy, named in this way not because of the obvious physi-

cal defect that seemed to characterise the body that was found,

but due to the gibbous shape caused by improper burial. The

phenomenon of mummification in Venzone is possibly thanks

to a fungus that grows in the tombs of the Duomo, the parasitic

mould Hipha Bombicina Pers which can dehydrate the body in a

year and make the skin pergameneous.

You enter into full Venetian spirit with the city of Codroipo,

where the very well known Villa Manin is located, the last resi-

dence of the doges of Venice, and Sacile, known as the “Garden

of the Serenissima” along the river Livenza.

The town of Muggia tells a different story, an ancient Istrian-

Venetian village, which maintains the characteristics and me-

mories of a strip of land and a peninsula (now mostly Croatian)

populated since ancient times by Istrians and Venetians. Muggia

is the only Istrian city, on Italian soil, predominantly Italian (San

Dorligo della Valle, a little further inland, is an Italian town but

mostly Slovenian): Italians in Istria generally speak, as well as

Italian (now protected as a language in Slovenia and Croatia

too), also two distinct indigenous languages of Romance ori-

gin: the Istroveneto and Istriot, the first considered a variety of

the Veneto-Friuli dialect, the second a local evolution of Vulgar

Latin with Venetian, Dalmatian and Slavic influences. It’s worth

a stop in Muggia, for its beauty, overlooking the Gulf of Trieste,

but also to pay homage to the value of citizenship in the partisan

struggle for freedom.

The fascination of a border land

Opposite page: the incredibly long coastline of Lignano Sabbiadoro. Above from

left to right: the ruins of Aquileia; detail of a fresco in the small Lombard church of

Cividale del Friuli; aerial view of Palmanova. Below: the Abbey of Sesto al Reghena.

34

««

Above: the interior of a café in Trieste. On the left: the castle of Miramare.

The Trieste of coffee, intellectuals and a thousand cultures

Province: Trieste

Altitude: 2 m asl

Inhabitants: 202.563

Tourist information: A.i.a.t. Trieste

Piazza Unità d’Italia 4/b

Tel. +39 040 3478312

www.turismofvg.it

in general. You can also enjoy a jota soup, with beans, potatoes

and sauerkraut, with clearly German roots.

To live as the people of Trieste do, one must explore the city by

way of the coffee shops. The fi rst were opened in the eigh-

teenth century imitating the fashionable shops in Venice, but

from the outset with unique characteristics, with traits of Vien-

na: the city, the emporium in the middle of Europe, could offer

a variety of beverages and spices from the north and south.

They soon formed the fi rst coffee houses frequented by Aus-

trian civil servants and offi cers, the bourgeois cafés and the

famous literary cafés. In the old piazza dei Negozianti, for ex-

ample, is the Caffè Tommaseo, founded in 1830 and now a

privileged meeting-place for artists: ice cream was introduced

here for the fi rst time! Created as a typical Austrian-Hungarian

establishment, decorated with mirrors and stucco, the Caffè Stella Polare was a meeting place for local and foreign intel-

lectuals. The Caffè degli Specchi, in Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia,

in the heart of the city, was established in 1839 and because

of its position immediately became a favourite place to follow

all the historical, political, economic and cultural events in the

city. After the Second World War it was requisitioned by the

Anglo-Americans Allies and from that moment the insignia of

the Royal Navy has been positioned inside. If from 1863 the

Caffè Tergesteo (in front of the Teatro Verdi) was attended

by businessmen from the nearby stock exchange, the Caffè San Marco, which opened in 1914, became a laboratory for

the preparation of false passports for the anti-Austrian patri-

ots who fl ed to Italy. Completely destroyed by the Austrians

during the First World War, it was later rebuilt in the twen-

ties to become a meeting place for many intellectuals in Tri-

este such as Umberto Saba and Italo Svevo. Inside, the typical

atmosphere of the Viennese café: the inlaid wooden bar, the

medallions on the walls, the marble tables with cast iron legs,

mirrors and frescoes. Finally, a mention for the most frequent

visitor to the Caffé Pasticceria Pirona: the writer James Joyce,

who designed his Ulisse here.

In short, between the Miramare Castle, built in the mid-ninete-

enth century by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg,

the Fountain of the Four Continents, the Arco di Riccardo and

the Cathedral of San Giusto, there will certainly be time for a

coffee that speaks of history.

There are many ways to visit Trieste, a city with one eye on the

Adriatic and the other on the harsh karstic promontory. You

can experience the city of the sea, with the piazza dell’Unità

which is among the prettiest and widest maritime squares in

the world, where the sea crosses the border of the city with

unique elegance and harmony.

You can also choose to discover Trieste following the archi-

tectural trail, to admire the simple and natural combination

of Baroque and neoclassical buildings with Art Nouveau and

eclectic constructions, in an exclusive co-existence with Ro-

man ruins and Habsburg style.

One of the most curious and satisfying options, however, is the

circuit of pubs, bars, cafés and shops: in the typical “osmizze”,

Vitovska is drunk (a typical Slovenian white wine, perfect with

fi sh and light hors d’oeuvres) and Terrano (dry red wine with

a low alcohol content that is produced in the Trieste area from

grapes grown in red soil, mentioned by Pliny and used by the

Romans), suitable to accompany cold meats, game and meat

35

Above: a picturesque view of Grotta Gigante.

A region to discover... underground!

ting to observe the eccentric shapes of the limestone forma-

tions, which seem to defy gravity. Even the Grotta delle Torri di Slivia is considered one of the wonders of the Trieste Karst

and has two entrances: an artificial entrance, with about 200

steps that lead 60 metres underground, and a natural entran-

ce, a 30-metre well where you can only descend with caving

equipment.

Inside, you can not miss the famous stalagmite towers, a group

of eight concretions of various sizes, from which the grotto

takes its name. The flow of visitors is precisely regulated to

protect a large colony of bats living there, which go into hiber-

nation and reproduce in the grotto.

Finally the “national temple of cavers” the Grotta Verde di Pradis, so named for the emerald green colour that illumina-

tes the walls. After the descent of 207 steps we find the crea-

tion carved by the river Cosa. The Christmas mass is celebrated

every year in front of the bronze statue of the Virgin. Palaeon-

tological and archaeological traces of Prehistoric occupation of

the grotto can be seen in the museum.

Limestone rocks that are more than 120 million years old.

Originally the Karst was submerged in shallow sea water,

with warm temperatures and inhabited like a coral reef! Car-

bonate deposited over thousands of years and turned into

rock emerged as a result of strong tectonic movements and

from that moment the process of erosion began: weathering

carried out a slow modification of the landscape, forming ca-

ves, sinkholes and dolines and by infiltrating water to form

underground rivers.

All this can be explored. A few kilometres from Trieste, for ex-

ample, you can enter the largest tourist grotto in the world: the

Grotta Gigante, a huge cave that is almost 300 metres long

and with a 107-metre dome, into which the ancient network

of river tunnels flow and in which the temperature remains

constant between 10 and 12 degrees throughout the year. The

range of colours and shapes of stalactites and stalagmites is

truly amazing, so much so that some, due to their shape, have

been given names like “pulpito”, “palma” (7 meters high!) and

“colonna di Ruggero” (12 meters!).

A short distance from Cividale del Friuli is the Grotta di San Giovanni d’Antro, which takes its name from the cult who

settled there around the eighth century. The cave is much ear-

lier, such that in prehistoric times it would have offered shelter

to the local populations. It is accessed by an entrance fortified

with a stairs with more than a hundred steps.

Unique to the type of rock that you can see, the Grotta nuova di Villanova has galleries that run flat for 8 km and two paths,

one a simple tourist route, the other for speleology tourism,

which enters into the more hidden caves. It is always fascina-

There are three rules that must be followed for the production of raw San Daniele ham. First, the

thighs should be from pigs reared in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia-

Romagna, Tuscany, Lazio, Abruzzo, Marche and Umbria. Then, of course, the traditional process

must be respected: the meat should quickly reach San Daniele, on the hills of Friuli, because it is

absolutely forbidden to freeze it. Here it is only treated with sea salt. And the so-called “aging”

process can only start in San Daniele. In fact it is necessary to have the winds that descend from

the Carnic Alps and those from the Adriatic. The resinous scents mingle with salty ones in an

environment where temperature and humidity are regulated by the moraine lands and the wa-

ters of the river Tagliamento.

San Daniele: tradition of gastronomic excellence

36

Liguria A balcony over the Mediterranean

LIGURIA

The perfect balance between the rough, unspoilt

nature of the mountains and the luxuriant

gentleness of the sea, with sudden and surprising

changes in height between the summits and the

water level. This is Liguria, a region of holidays,

nature, sport and wellness, of simple and authentic

fl avours, but also of ancient civilizations and

contemporary culture. A concentration of wealth

that you can not fail to appreciate: from the music

of the great songwriters to the worldliness of

the most famous festival in Italy, passing by the

fl owers, from which the Riviera takes its name.

37

Perched on the hills, overlooking the sea, the picturesque vil-

lages in Liguria give colour to the entire coast and the hin-

terland with their romantic, old and traditional atmosphere.

Villages to explore, enjoy and experience by delving into the

past, included among the “Most beautiful villages in Italy” and

awarded with the orange flag by the Italian Touring Club.

In the hinterland to the west of Genoa, in the Stura Valley,

Campo Ligure is identified today by the narrow alleyways or

caruggi (some are just a few tens of centimetres wide) popu-

lated by goldsmith shops. Those same alleyways in the village

of Pigna are called chibi and have concentric rings giving the

town the typical shape of a pine cone, from which the town

takes its name. Unique shapes and lines are also found in the

“round” village of Varese Ligure whose elliptical layout re-

minds us of its defensive function. This time located at the foot

of the Apennines, at the confluence of the Gravegnola and

Chicciola streams with the river Vara, is Brugnato built around

the core of an ancient abbey of the late seventh century.

In the Nervia Valley, Apricale takes its name from the fact it

is exposed to the sun (in Latin apricus), perched on a hill in a

kind of cascade of stone houses. Equally spectacular, but half-

way between the sea and the hills, is Borgio Verezzi, with

wonderful views of the coast, among the perfumes of the Med-

iterranean vegetation. The double name, in this case, is due to

two historic centres with parallel stories that have experienced

the Saracen invasions, the bishops of Albenga and the Repub-

lic of Genoa. Here there are very striking glimpses, washba-

sins, doors between the caruggi and the creuze (alleyways and

lanes). The first document that mentions Dolceacqua dates

back to 1151; this small village was built from the castle at the

top of the rocky spur, spread along a stream, with an older part

called Terra and a more modern part called Borgo.

The Finale stone adorns the gates, forms the columns and en-

hances the narrow alleyways of these villages. Medieval walls

and semicircular towers overlooking the sea announce settle-

ments such as Finalborgo (one of the three centres that make

up the town of Finale Ligure) dominated by the baroque Ba-

silica di San Biagio, whose unfinished façade of rough stone

hides the richness of the interior decoration. Or like Cervo,

dominated by the castle and embellished by the Church “dei

Corallini” (the coral fishermen who contributed to its construc-

tion), and Zuccarello, with characteristic buildings (such as

the Romanesque Bridge), which, due to its strategic position,

was one of the key points used by Napoleonic troops.

These extraordinary villages adorn the Ligurian territory and

the entire region is dotted with significant and picturesque

towns, from the more worldly centres, popular with tourists

to those that are more “family friendly”. There are also many

interesting facts about these places, such as Laigueglia, popu-

lated as early as 1330 by Catalan coral fishermen, whose mark

remains in many Spanish-surnames and place names (such as

the church of Nostra Señora de la peña, Our Lady of the Rock).

The geography of the area of the Cinque Terre becomes sur-

prisingly more extreme, where the thousand-year old villages

boldly climb next to the coast overlooking the sea: Lerici, heart

of the Gulf of Poets (the works of Lord Byron and Mary Shelley

were written here), Levanto, bearing an elegant and aristo-

cratic appearance, Manarola, famous for the Via dell’Amore

(Way of Love), Portovenere, whose name indicates its beau-

ty, Monterosso, Riomaggiore and Vernazza, overlooking the

blue sea with pastel-coloured houses.

There really is something for everyone!

The Ligurian villages,

jewels between the mountains

and the sea

Ligurian olive oil is an integral part of the local culture. It

is said that the Benedictine monks spread the olive tree in

Liguria, with different effects in the production between East

and West. The extra virgin olive oil, which is always fruity,

is spicy in the East and sweet in the West. Seven varieties of

olive trees are grown whose olives are used to produce three

types of oil with protected designation of origin (PDO): “Rivi-

era dei Fiori”, “Riviera del Ponente Savonese” and “Riviera del

Levante”. A common element, in addition to the membership

of the same consortium, (Oli DOP Riviera Ligure), is the per-

centage of black olives over 90%.

The Ligurian oil and identityOpposite page: a view of Manarola, one of the Cinque Terre. Above: a market stall selling

the typical focaccia of Liguria in Camogli. Above right: an olive grove near La Spezia.

38

«

This page, clockwise:

an area of the dock in Genoa;

the Cathedral of St. Laurence;

the Bigo structure in the Old Port.

Genoa:elegant, superb, unique

Province: Genoa

Altitude: 19 m asl

Inhabitants: 606 978

Tourist information:

IAT Offi ce

via Garibaldi - tel. +39 010 5572903/751

www.genova-turismo.it

ple in the audience and more than a thousand outside, in front of

a big screen.

Moving toward Piazza San Lorenzo, you can not fail to admire

the Cathedral of the same name, whose majestic façade with

white and black stripes, three imposing access portals, once again

takes you back to the Middle Ages and Renaissance period that

saw Genoa become the capital and cornerstone of the traffi c of

goods from around the world.

A memory of that era of trade, departures, great voyages and dis-

coveries can be found in the streets of the historic centre, where a

few tiny shops survive that still sell herbs and spices from all over

the world.

And it is the common neighbourhoods, with their narrow, col-

ourful, labyrinthic streets that let you breathe the history of a port

city, with its active population, more material than philosophiz-

ing, more tied to goods than thought, but enriched by the char-

acteristics of the cultures from all over the world thanks to trade.

Genoa is inextricably linked to the name of Christopher Colum-

bus, its most famous citizen, both legendary and mysterious,

forced to turn to Spain to organise the trip that started the mod-

ern era.

Walking down the streets in the centre, you will discover a new

side of the city, with the baroque via Balbi overlooked by the im-

posing Palazzo Reale, with its more than 100 metres of façade

and home to the Art Gallery with works by Van Dyck and the

amazing Galleria degli Specchi (Hall of Mirrors).

At the end of via Balbi is the famous monument to Christopher

Columbus and the façade of the Principe railway station from

where via Andrea Doria starts leading to the Palazzo (or Vil-la) del Principe, the domain of the old port, dominated by the

117-metre Lanterna (Lighthouse of

Genoa), the symbol of the city, be-

hind which lies the via Pré district,

the infamous and degraded area that

has recently embarked on the road of

urban and social recovery.

An elegant but reserved city, proud but shy. Like its inhabitants.

Beautiful, when you discover the popular quarters in contrast

with the Renaissance palaces, churches and villas. Unique, situat-

ed on the gulf at the centre of the two Rivieras, dominated by one

of the largest tourist and commercial ports in the Mediterranean

and by the scientifi c and cultural centre in which the Aquarium

is the main draw for tourists. Genoa offers the historical and ar-

tistic heritage of a true city of art and comes alive every year with

events of great interest: the famous Regatta of the Ancient Mar-

itime Republics, the Salone della Nautica (Genoa International

Boat Show), the Eurofl ora.

The discovery of the city starts from Piazza Matteotti, with the

fun combination of courtyards, loggias and colonnades of the

Palazzo Ducale, with its eighteenth-century façade facing the

square. A visit to the Doge’s apartments allows you to dive into

the glorious period of the city and the recent recoveries made it

possible to reconstruct the luxury and wealth of the time. Right in

front of the Palazzo Ducale is the Teatro Carlo Felice: it was here

that the memorable concert by Fabrizio De André was held on

Christmas Eve in 1997, and also the emotional commemoration a

few days after his death in January 1999, with two thousand peo-

39

This page: in the magical world of the Aquarium, Genoa.

A magicalland of water

cies of cetaceans, settled here because of the wealth of fish on

which they feed. It is not hard to spot them, when participat-

ing in whale watching organised by institutions and consortia,

sailing from Genoa and Savona with the assistance of WWF

professionals and biologists, allowing you to enter the world

of these giant aquatic mammals with respect for their envi-

ronment. The different species range from the fin whale - that

measures an average of 25 metres in length and can weigh

more than 20 tons - to the common dolphin, sperm whales

and killer whales. The observations on the boat, which the

public may participate in, are also a chance to identify each

specimen with photos which are then entered into a Europe-

an database, which monitors their health and behaviour.

Diving enthusiasts must not forget to visit the Regional Nat-

ural Park of Portofino with a protected marine area, which

contains spectacular underwater ecosystems. The coastline

with rock hanging over the promontory in fact creates one

of the most interesting and unspoiled seabeds in the Medi-

terranean, with cliffs full of caves and coves, ideal for the life

of sponges, gorgonians and corals of various tints. However

the sandy seabeds on the sides of the promontory host the

so-called “prairies” of posidonia oceanica, a marine plant that

implements a continuous action of consolidation of the sea-

bed and serves as an indicator of the quality of the coastal

marine waters.

From the city to the open sea, everything in Liguria allows

you to immerse yourself into the blue and gain a unique

experience in contact with the inhabitants of the sea. Start

from Genoa, where the area of the old port is home to the

famous Aquarium, a place where learning becomes a fun and

addictive experience (a true “edutainment”). In addition to

the largest aquarium in Italy and the second largest in Eu-

rope, built by Renzo Piano for the Expo 1992, in which 70

ecosystems are represented in as many tanks, for adults and

children there are the “Città dei Bambini e dei Ragazzi” and

“Biosfera”, areas of play and discovery of science and technol-

ogy, the large panoramic lifts “Bigo” and “Galata”, the largest

and most innovative maritime museum in the Mediterrane-

an, with the reconstruction of a Genoese galley from the

seventeenth-century which is 33 metres long and a brig-antine schooner from the nineteenth century and with six thousand original objects. These visits allow a closer look

at how navigation has evolved over the centuries, how the

technologies have changed, and how man lived and is living

with the sea. But the star attractions are the sharks, dolphins,

penguins, seals, rays and even corals: they can be seen, in

some cases you can touch them, but we also try to understand

how they live and what you can do to respect them in their

natural habitat.

The waters of the Ligurian Sea also offer an opportunity for

innovative tourism. It is home to the only protected marine

area established in the international arena (in 1999): the

Cetacean Sanctuary, which covers about 87,000 square kilo-

metres in the waters of Italy, France and Monaco. In fact, this

is an area with a high concentration of twelve different spe-

40

Emilia RomagnaFo

to P

arita

ni

The region situated immediately

south of the Po river, where the

destiny of ancient Rome’s dominion

over the peninsula was decided:

it was 10 January 49 B.C. and Julius Cesar,

decided to cross the river Rubicon from Ravenna

and, on pronouncing the famous phrase Alea

iacta est, gave way to the Roman civil war.

The region that has produced the great names

of Italian light music, which boasts the most

famous riviera in Europe, prestigious Italian

automobile companies and the small or large-scale

agricultural and food industries that represent Italy

worldwide. This is Emilia-Romagna: whatever

it decides to produce, it makes an impression.

A land of passions and pleasure

EMILIA ROMAGNA

41

Foto

Par

itani

Food embodies our recollections of territory, history and tradition.

Nothing could be closer to the truth in Emilia-Romagna, where as

many as 19 “taste museums” have been created to safeguard its fine

food and wines: a heritage that comprises its exquisite gastronomic

specialities and the art of simple hospitality in which this region

has always excelled. A show of hospitality which, on the Riviera, is

young at heart, dynamic and extremely well organized, while fur-

ther inland or in town, takes the form of warm- heartedness, music,

a smiling welcome and an entrepreneurial spirit.

In the province of Parma, in the kitchens and cellars of Castello Fe-

lino, the Felino Salami Museum has its premises. Other symbols

of excellence belonging to this province are the Museum of Par-ma Ham in Langhirano and the Museum of Parmesan Cheese

in Soragna. In Montecchio Emilia, in the area of Reggio Emilia,

Lambrusco is celebrated in the Wine Museum, which provides

a detailed description of its history and vinification techniques,

thanks to the enthusiasm of a family that has been engaged in

its production for over a century. And, of course, the Modena area

could not possibly do without its Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Museum, located in Spilamberto, where the visitor’s tour starts

in a charming barrel-shaped room, and the Tigella Museum and Borlengo Workshop, occupying two different premises in

Samone di Guglia and Lame di Zocca. In the province of Ferrara,

looking out onto the water in Comacchio, it is possible to enter

into the unique world created by the Eel Museum, an ancient

building where visitors may observe fish processing techniques.

Still on the coast, but close to Ravenna, this time, the Salt Mu-seum of Cervia describes the work behind this precious white

substance extracted from the sea. Exquisite flavours that are worth

learning about and tasting, in order to fully enjoy this territory. But,

in Italian, sapori (flavours) rhymes with motori (motors). And in

Emilia Romagna motors are another expression of excellence. So

much so, that the term “Motor Valley” has been coined.

So don’t miss a visit to the Automobile Museum in San Martino

in Rio, which exhibits about forty cars, a dozen motorbikes and

sidecars, an historical library, a photographic archive and multi-

media supports. This is also the headquarters of the San Martino Racing stable: if the Museum preserves the cars, the Racing sta-

ble makes them move. From four to two-wheelers, to complete

the picture, it is worth paying a visit to the National Motorcy-cle Museum in Rimini: 250 motorcycle exhibits to represent 65

different brands, subdivided by theme and period. Of particular

interest is the Guzzi 500 which belonged to the painter, Ligabue.

On the grounds in front of the exhibition centre, a bring and buy

market for exchanging motorbike accessories has been held ever

since 1994, with sessions on the third Sunday of each month. As

in the case of food, there are plenty of museums for enthusiasts to

visit, as many as 14 in fact. Of these, the most famous is the Fer-ruccio Lamborghini Museum Centre, in Dosso (Ferrara), where

the futuristic structure housing the collections is situated right in

front of the production plants. You just have to cross over to the

other side of the Italian border to visit Maranello Rosso – the Ferrari Museum and the Red Abarth Museum, in Falciano, in

the Republic of San Marino. Finally, for all those who do not only

want to know, but also try out, drive and hear the roar of engines

firsthand, there is the Misano World Circuit, the Enzo and Dino

Ferrari International Racing track in Imola, the Riccardo Paletti

Racing track in the area of Parma and the Modena Racing track,

as well as the huge number of go kart circuits and the production

plants of some of the most famous brands, including Ducati and

Maserati. A real paradise for racing enthusiasts!

Land of flavours, land of motors

Opposite page: aquagym class in the Aquafan water park in Riccione.

Above from left to right: the emblem of Ferrari, the famous sports car manufacturer;

checking the maturation of Parmesan cheeses; descent on a rubber dinghy

at the Aquafan water park in Riccione; the beach of Viserba.

Flour, lard, salt and water: this is the piadina of Romagna,

the symbol of the Riviera. There are a number of variations on

the traditional theme, folded over and filled with cooked ham,

squacquerone cheese and rocket, or even chocolate cream. The

crescione, for instance, is a piada that is filled, folded over and

closed before being cooked: its name derives from its filling of

cress, which is now difficult to find but once grew abundant-

ly along ditches and canals. Another version called “tortel-

lo alla lastra” is simply a sheet of piadina pastry rolled out

finely and filled with potatoes that have been boiled, pureed

and seasoned with onion,

pecorino cheese, nutmeg,

bacon and salt, or greens

and ricotta cheese.

Piadina, the symbol of Romagna

«

Bologna Strolling midst towers and porticos

Province: Bologna

Altitude: 54 m asl

Inhabitants: 382 460

Tourist information bureau:

IAT Piazza Maggiore

Palazzo del Podestà – Piazza Maggiore 1/e

Tel. +39 051 239660 - www.bolognawelcome.com

Of the 100 towers – more or less - built in Bologna in and

around the XII century, only 24 still remain standing today. With

its almost completely porticoed historical town centre, the so-

called red city, whose name is mainly due to the red brick with

which it is built but also to its political leanings during the last

century, lends itself to about two hours’ of urban trekking. The

sites on the tourist track are numerous and curiously named,

such as the Torre degli Agresti, Torre dei Lapi, Torre dei Gal-luzzi. This tour makes an interesting and instructive experience

since it enables us to understand the function of towers from

the Middle Ages onwards: a family that could afford to build a

tower was able to demonstrate its political power, importance

and wealth. The higher and more visible the tower was, in fact,

the greater the power behind it. On reaching Piazza di Porta

Ravegnana, you come across the two symbols of medieval Bolo-

gna: the Two Towers, both of which lean over, standing at the

meeting point of the streets leading to the fi ve fortifi ed gate-

ways of the ancient city walls known as “torresotti”. The one

which leans over most (and is shorter, 48 m) is the Garisenda,

mentioned several times by Dante in the Divine Comedy, while

the other, the Torre degli Asinelli, is the highest leaning tow-

er in Italy (97.2 m) and, if you climb up the steps inside, you

can enjoy a wonderful view of the city, the surrounding hills

and St. Luke’s Church from the top. During the “tower tour” it

is advisable to stop off at Piazza del Nettuno, pass under the

Voltone del Podestà to “talk in the corners” and observe the

Torre dell’Arengo. Then go back to Piazza Maggiore to take

in the last tower, that of the Clock.

The other all-important landmark of Bologna is the Univer-

sity: in fact this was the site where the fi rst university of the

western world was founded, the Alma Mater Studiorum. In

spite of being fi rst mentioned in 1317, but already known in

the XI century for its legal studies, the studium of Bologna did

not have a permanent location until the mid XVI century, so

the professors of ancient times used to hold their lectures in

their own homes or in rooms rented from the Municipality.

The 42 km of porticos characterizing this city were actually

built to provide hospitality to the wealthy students, most of

whom were foreigners. The heart of Bologna’s University is

the palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, erected by Pious IV in 1561 to

unite all the schools of the Studium under one roof. Palazzo

Poggi, on the other hand, was built in the mid 16th century

and was chosen by Napoleon in 1802 as the new location of

the modern University of Bologna. Finally, Via Zamboni, is the

street most frequented by the city’s students and ever since

1756 it has been overlooked by the University library.

Above: the colonnades of Strada Maggiore.

Below: a picturesque night time view of Piazza Maggiore.

43

discotheques in Italy, from the Cocoricò to the Peter Pan and

the Baia Imperiale, and the entire area involved in the Rimini

night-life, the Marano, with its pubs, lounge bars and night-

clubs for dancing on the beach, the amusement parks Aqua-

fan, Oltremare and Fiabilandia, excursions inland towards the

nearby Republic of San Marino, the fortified villages of San Leo

and Sant’Arcangelo. The long list of resorts goes on to include

Cattolica, Bellaria Igea Marina, Gabicce, Cesenatico, Cervia and

Misano Adriatico. Milano Marittima, separated from Cervia

by a century-old pine forest, is a favourite resort of VIPs, sports

celebrities and socialites, since it offers the last word in fashion,

music and lifestyle trends. Its hotels are icons of modern de-

sign, signed by the most famous architects of our times, along

with its glamorous venues and beaches. For those who seek the

excitement and adrenaline rush of amusement parks, there is

Mirabilandia (in Savio) just a short distance away, or for art and

culture enthusiasts, the marvellous town of Ravenna, a Une-

sco heritage site, which takes you straight into the Byzantine

age with its amazing mosaics. Along the same lines of tour-

ist development as Riccione and Milano Marittima, Marina di Ravenna has emerged in recent years as an exotic corner of

Romagna thanks to its Duna degli Orsi, an original venue which

started out as a place for surfers to gather, and Zanzibar, which

re-creates the festive atmosphere of Brazil.

Wherever you go in Emilia-Romagna, every town and village

is steeped in history and tradition: from the beaches on the

Riviera, you just have to move inland to come across Ferrara,

an amazing town which has preserved intact the lavish Re-

naissance style imposed by the d’Este family. And what about

Faenza, a workshop-town for the production of handcrafted

ceramics.

1843. The first bathing establishment was opened in Rimini.

The new sea bathing therapy was being promoted by English

doctors: from here in Rimini and its Riviera, a proper industry

grew up, consisting of hotels, restaurants, beach facilities, spa

centres, discotheques and services of all kinds. People go to the

Romagna Riviera to dance all night, drink an evening cock-

tail on the coast, work out on the fitness beaches and get to

know people. But it is also popular with those who like to take

long walks with the family, enjoy beach entertainment with

the kids, or have fun in the aquatic parks. Many things have

changed since 1843, but one thing remains constant: the or-

ganization of a whole area as though it were one single tourist

product and a unique tourist experience.

Among the various locations on this coast, Rimini is certainly

the one that most combines the concept of tourist resort and

cultural hub: it offers 30 km of beaches complete with facilities,

over 1000 hotels, hundreds of restaurants and pizza parlours,

but also a large Municipal Museum, an historical town centre

boasting many Ancient Roman and Renaissance monuments,

the archaeological sites of the Surgeon’s Domus. In addition,

numerous events and shows are staged during the summer,

with something for all ages. For example? The Pink Night, the

Riviera Beach Games, the Paganello, the Cartoon Club, the

Trade Fair and the new Congress Hall, the Fitness Festival etc.

Riccione, on the other hand, is the Green Pearl of the Adriat-

ic, the trendiest and most celebrated destination, which offers

holidays for all budgets (from family-run guest houses to luxury

hotels). The attractions also include some of the most popular

The riviera...that never sleeps!

Above: an outdoor disco on the riviera.

On the left: a dolphin show at the Dolphinarium in Rimini.

44

Toscana Picture postcard views

TUSCANY

Tuscany offers beautiful seas, hills, spas,

festivals and cities with a rich artistic heritage,

with a bit of mountainous landscape thrown

in for good measure. Tuscany has everything

visitors could possibly need for a well-rounded holiday. Just choose

whether to spend your holiday on the white sandy beaches of

Versilia with celebrities or have a healthy cycling holiday amid

“picture postcard” hills, sunfl owers and vineyards. Visitors

are spoilt for choice: on the one hand there are the numerous

local fairs and festivals that focus mainly on simple, tasty and

genuine Tuscan food; on the other, you can enjoy a relaxing

time in the spa waters that fl ow from the rocks to form natural

pools of hot spring water set amidst the countryside. Visitors

can opt for a comprehensive cultural holiday from the art of

Tuscany’s famous towns and cities to the numerous medieval

jousts organised throughout the region. The alternative is to try

and do a bit of everything, experiencing Tuscany to the full.

45

In the cradle of the Renaissance

The cities of art in Tuscany make a winning team because they form

a perfect “package” which never ceases to arouse the curiosity of

visitors: travelling from one place to the next, you pass through

marvellous landscapes which relax the mind and help you to leave

the stress of modern city life far behind.

A good place to start is Prato and its Castello dell’Imperatore

(Emperor’s castle), a rare and imposing example of Swabian-

Angevin architecture. Prato is a true city of art, considering that it is

possible to admire the works of Andrea della Robbia in the church

of Santa Maria delle Carceri while the Cathedral of St. Stephen

contains the frescoes of Paolo Uccello and Filippo Lippi. Renowned

since the Middle Ages for the manufacture and trade of fabrics,

Prato provides an illustrated overview of this historical activity in

the Museo del Tessuto (Textile and Fabric Museum).

The tour moves from Prato to Pistoia, where it is worth visiting the

beautiful Piazza del Duomo with the Cathedral of St. Zeno, and the

town hall and the magistrates’ and the bishop’s palaces with their

gothic profiles.

Known as “the city with a hundred churches”, Lucca greets visitors

with its colourful rounded square, a welcoming place steeped in

history like the entire region it represents. The most important of

the hundred churches is undoubtedly the Cathedral of St. Martin

where visitors can admire the wonderful works of Nicola Pisano

and the marvellous gothic-renaissance tomb of Ilaria del Carretto,

made in 1407 by Jacopo della Quercia in memory of the wife of

Paolo Giunigi, the lord of the city. Before leaving Lucca, you can

not miss a romantic walk along the renaissance city wall, a hanging

garden that surrounds the historic centre. Pisa is unquestionably

an emblematic representative of Italian art and architecture in the

world. The famous Leaning Tower stands next to the Cathedral in

Piazza dei Miracoli (the Square of Miracles) although it is actually

the Cathedral’s bell tower. Construction work on the tower began in

1173 but it began to lean over midway during the building work due

to the ground subsidence. Inside the Cathedral, which is divided into

five naves, the pulpit carved by Giovanni Pisano is one of the most

important gothic sculptures in Italy. Massa and Carrara, just a few

kilometres away from the Apuan Riviera, still preserve the charm of

traditional historic towns and cities of art and culture. Immediately

to the north, set between the Apuan Alps and the Appenines, lies

Lunigiana, the region that supplied the marble used to stunning

effect in the cathedral of Carrara, the Cathedral of Massa and all

the façades of the large churches of Tuscany and nearby Liguria.

Overlooking the sea, Livorno is famous for its Naval Academy

and the headquarters of the “Folgore” Parachutists’ Brigade. It is

also renowned for the cacciucco, the rich fish soup that is the city’s

trademark dish. It is primarily a port city and, as such, has always

been open to different cultures and religions: it houses a place of

worship and a monumental cemetery for every religion! Siena is

the protagonist of the Tuscan summer with the Palio, which is held

twice a year. It is the queen of traditional historical re-enactments.

Tourists can enjoy a full immersion in the city’s past: this includes

the division of the city into districts, the concentric plan around

Piazza del Campo and the Mangia Tower, the Fonte Gaia and the

Palio, which still arouses passionate feelings to this day. Visitors can

enjoy a similar trip through time at Arezzo, which has a carefully

preserved historic appearance, with its Giostra del Saracino (Saracen

Joust) in which the city’s four districts challenge each other.

Opposite page: a riot of colour in the hills of Val d’Orcia. Above from left to right: local handicrafts; rock near the island of Palmarola; Piazza del Campo in Siena; Piazza dei Miracoli in Pisa.

Below: Piazza dell’Anfiteatro in Lucca.

46

In terms of landscape, Tuscany immediately conjures up

visions in tourists’ minds of the region’s gently rolling hills.

Val d’Orcia represents the standard image of the yellow hills,

with a narrow row of cypresses on the “hump”. We are in

Siena’s heartland, where the panorama is stripped down to the

bare essentials and is of matchless simplicity... and yet quite

wonderful. The colours of the sky and the different shades that

follow each other during the day offer a constant contrast to

the warm colours of the fi elds, the red soil when it is freshly

ploughed (“Siena earth”), the green crops in early summer

and the golden hues of late summer. Even the roads have a

harmonious quality, following the contours and bends of the

slopes, without any excesses and with effortless elegance, often

accompanied by orderly rows of cypress trees. The summits of

the most imposing hills are topped with towns, castles, abbeys

and monasteries, surrounded by the vineyards of Brunello. A

small part of the area is mountainous, in the westernmost part

of the valley where Mount Amiata, the highest extinct volcano

in Italy, silently overlooks Castel del Piano and, further in the

distance, Montalcino, Pienza, Montepulciano, San Quirico

d’Orcia and other romantic towns. The river that gives its name

to the valley is little more than a stream; in summer it often

runs dry while in autumn it is a fast-fl owing and tumultuous

stream. However, there are other water features which have

made this area distinctive since ancient Roman times: in

Bagno Vignoni the spa waters have been exploited with small

natural and artifi cial pools, linked to each other by ancient

water channels which use the force of gravity to create small

waterfalls and constant movement. Most of the water collects

in a large pool (where swimming is not permitted) which

replaces the town square and gives it a unique appearance: the

impact is particularly strong on summer days, when the blue

of the sky and the colours of the fl owers are refl ected in the

middle, creating plays of light and unique refl ections.

Chianti also lies in the Siena area and its landscape almost

appears to have been drawn or painted. The fascinating Crete Senesi are hills that continuously change shape due to the

sculpting of the clay which forms the main component of the

soil. Here too, there are plenty of opportunities to relax, with

the spa waters of Rapolano Terme, to enjoy local food, tasting

the truffl e of San Giovanni d’Asso, and to appreciate local

archaeology; it is worth visiting the fascinating excavation of

From sunfl owers to woods, the magicof the Tuscan hills

47

Pieve di Pava where each summer hundreds of students from

all over the world excavate and study a medieval site which

was probably built on old Roman buildings and possibly even

Etruscan ruins. It is quite common to see young people walking

along in rows in the fields at a fixed distance from each other

with their eyes glued to the ground and holding state-of-the-

art machinery: they are involved in archaeological survey and

remote sensing and other disciplines which provide crucial

support for classical archaeological excavation.

Chianti is naturally associated with wine. Just move to the right

hills, with the best exposure to the sun and the ideal mineral

components in the soil, to discover colourful rows of vines

with different varieties of grapes: even the wines produced

in the Tuscan hills differ considerably from each other. The

so-called Strade del Vino (Wine Trails) have been specially

created for sensitive tourists who love active holidays and want

to explore the flavours of the region and its traditions: there

are clearly marked signs for anyone who wants to explore the

trail by car, motorbike, bicycle or on foot; the signs provide

precise information about the road you are travelling on, the

distances to various places of interest, descriptions of the

features of the wines produced on each route, highlighting

the cultural visits that can be made in the area, the available

infrastructure and services, from wineries to holiday farmhouses

and museums. There are currently 14 Wine Trails in Tuscany

and they are located throughout the region: from the north,

“Colli di Candia e di Lunigiana”, “Colline Lucchesi e Montecarlo”, “Montespertoli”, “Carmignano” (the so-called

“strada medicea”), “Chianti Rùfina e Pomino”, “Chianti Colli Fiorentini”, “Colline Pisane”, “Terre di Arezzo”, “Vernaccia di San Gimignano”, “Monteregio di Massa Marittima”, “Montecucco”, “Nobile di Montepulciano”, “Costa degli Etruschi” and “Colli di Maremma”. Not all the names are

particularly well-known but they conceal old traditions, high

quality products and authentic itineraries.

The hills of the Maremma have a completely different

appearance. This is the southernmost area of Tuscany and

Opposite page: hills near San Gimignano. This page, clockwise from the left:

a field of sunflowers; countryside near San Quirico d’Orcia; sunset over

the Bay of Baratti; countryside along the Monteregio Wine Trail in Massa Marittima;

a cowherd in the Regional Park of the Maremma.

coincides with the territory of Grosseto. The Maremma is

a byword for wild nature, woodland and a lifestyle based on

respect for the environment and wildlife which has found its

ideal conditions here: the Maremma is as strong and rugged as

its wild boars and as elegant and free as its horses. The area is

protected by the Regional Park of the Maremma, one of the fi rst

Italian nature reserves, and, towards the sea, by the National

park of the Tuscan Archipelago which includes the coast and the

islands. Like the whole of Tuscany, the Maremma simply oozes

history: the Castle of Montemassi, an imposing ruin with

polygonal towers, built on a spur of rock which was probably

already inhabited in antiquity with wooden huts and buildings;

the monument provides testimony of the lesser and more

important battles fought in the Maremma area for control of a

region which was rich in timber and game. It is the same castle

that is depicted in Guidoriccio da Fogliano, painted by Simone

Martini in 1330, a large fresco in the Sala del Mappamondo

in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena. Archaeology, art and history

combine to provide the data required to reconstruct events. This

is the case for every small town in the region.

Returning to the “yellowest” area of the Tuscan hills, the main

protagonists are the abbeys: they include masterpieces of

Romanesque architecture such as Sant’Antimo; just a stone’s

throw from Montalcino, the white-hooded monks, who still

live in the structure and run its religious and accommodation

facilities, can be seen walking among the capitals decorated

with the typical faces and fi gures of the medieval bestiary and

the imposing arches and columns made from warmly coloured

stone. Another example is Monte Oliveto Maggiore, the

fi fteenth century abbey inhabited by Olivetan Benedictine

monks who live in an enclosed order and, in accordance with

tradition, produce different herbal medicines. The centre of the

monastery is the cloister, a place that symbolises monastic life

as a communion with God (there is no roof so that there is a

sensation of direct contact with the sky) and the other brothers.

However, the most legendary of Tuscan monasteries is San Galgano, the majestic unroofed Cistercian abbey which was

consecrated in 1288 in honour of Galgano, a local nobleman

who converted to poverty. The building is surrounded by

huge stretches of sunfl owers. The nearby chapel, known as

the “Rotonda di Montesiepi”, houses the “sword in the stone”

which, according to tradition, was thrust into the stone by

Galgano himself as a tangible symbol of his own conversion.

Many theories link the story of Galgano to that of King Arthur.

Once again, in the peace of the Tuscan countryside, history and

legend go hand in hand.

Above from left to right: vineyards near San Gimignano; view of Volterra. Below: Abbey of Sant’Antimo. Opposite page: Abbey of San Galgano..

49

50

The fi rst thing to do in Florence is to close your eyes: as you reopen

them, you will fi nd yourself walking through the Renaissance city

in the company of Brunelleschi and Michelangelo, Donatello and

Masaccio, all at work transforming the city into the true capital

of the Renaissance. Churches, palaces, museums, bridges: art

and history are the thread running through each street. Then

you encounter Dante, Boccaccio and Petrarch and this is where

literature appears. In the city of Florence, culture is king!

The Uffi zi Gallery, one of the most important museums in the

world, houses the collection of the Medici family and is housed

in a majestic building that resembles a sort of U-shaped corridor

suspended in front of the river Arno; it was initially designed

as a private walkway between the masterpieces of Renaissance

painting. The Uffi zi Gallery provides an excellent selection of

Italian works of art between the fourteenth and sixteenth century:

Giotto, Piero della Francesca, Botticelli (including the unmissable

works Spring and the Birth of Venus), Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi,

Leonardo da Vinci (the Annunciation), Michelangelo (the Tondo Doni or The Holy Family), Raphael, Andrea Mantegna, Correggio

and Caravaggio. Other important parts of the gallery that are

defi nitely worth seeing include the collections of German, Dutch

and Flemish painters such as Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens.

From the panoramic terrace there is a splendid view over Piazza

della Signoria and the historic centre of the city.

Piazza della Signoria has always been the civic centre of the city

and is dominated by Palazzo Vecchio, a gothic fortress which is

now the city hall, with the Arnolfo Tower, the 94-metre tower

which is the symbol of the power of the Florentine Republic.

The other decorative features of the square include the Fountain

of Neptune and the bronze statues of the Loggia dei Lanzi, in

particular the statue of Perseus by Benvenuto Cellini.

Art lovers should defi nitely visit the Accademia Gallery, which

houses the original version of Michelangelo’s David, the copy of

which dominates Piazza della Signoria. The statue is the pride of

Florence due to the sense of nobility and dignity which the young

artist (he was only 26 years old at the time) managed to convey

from one single block of marble: it is said that no one wanted to

carve the block of stone measuring over 4 metres and known as

“il gigante” (the giant). The gallery also features other incomplete

works by Michelangelo known as “I Prigioni” (The Prisons).

Firenze:the many museums of a city-museum

This page, from the top: Brunelleschi’s Dome and Palazzo Vecchio.

Opposite page, from the top: Giotto’s bell tower and view of Florence with River Arno.

51

«

The Florentine museum network also includes the Museo del Bargello where visitors can admire an unrivalled collection

of the most important works of Renaissance sculpture, such as

Donatello’s David. The Bargello was once a fortress-prison, and

it is possible to visit the chapel which was reserved for the last

prayers of prisoners who had been sentenced to death.

To reach the other large part of the museum network of Florence,

it is necessary to cross the river Arno: here you come to Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence (1345), which used to be

the location of butchers’ shops which were replaced, by order of

Grand Duke Cosimo I, by the jeweller’s shops that still give the

bridge its character today. It is the only bridge over the Arno to

have survived the Second World War and the flood of 1966. The

bridge is considered the most romantic place in Florence and

there are no words to describe its incredible beauty at sunset.

By crossing the Arno, you come to Palazzo Pitti, the colossal

residence of the Medici family which today houses as many as

five museums (including the Palatine Gallery) as well as the

Giardino di Boboli, Florence’s “museum” of plants and flowers.

Inquisitive visitors can also go in search of the city’s many small

museums. They are incredibly diverse in nature. Each one has

its own distinctive quality so that a tour of Florence’s museums

never ceases to be a source of pleasant surprises!

To complete the visit, a walk around an outdoor museum –

namely the historic centre - is an absolute must. If you look up in

Piazza del Duomo, you will be astonished at the sight of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Bell Tower.

Besides the grandiose and majestic nature of the monuments, the

really striking aspect is the elegance of the composition of the

materials and colours of the structures. The cathedral is one of the

largest churches in the world and is dominated by Brunelleschi’s dome, an impressive landmark which is visible from whichever

direction you approach the city: as you climb you can take in a

unique view. The bell tower, which is 85 metres high and has 414

steps, provides the best viewpoint of the city because it is the only

place where you can admire the dome from close up. The third

element of the complex, the Baptistery, is famous for its bronze

panels, made by Ghiberti, which are so beautiful that they were

called “the gates of paradise”.

Province: Florence

Altitude: 50 m asl

Inhabitants: 378.236

Tourist information:APT Firenze Via Cavour -Via Cavour, 1/r

Tel. +39 055.290832 – 055.290833

www.firenzeturismo.it

52

Versilia: trend-setting beaches

If there is a fashionable side to Tuscany, this is Versilia. The strip of

land in the province of Lucca takes its name from the river Versilia

and in past times it used to be known as the “Fosse Papiriane”.

There is a historical part, made up of four municipalities which

are situated in the mountainous area of the river, and there is

also “contemporary Versilia”, the coastal riviera; its predominantly

tourist appeal combines a huge, golden sandy beach with lively

fashionable nightlife, featuring numerous night clubs and

renowned discos overlooking the sea.

Lido di Camaiore offers a distinctively elegant walk along

the seashore which stretches for more than 4 km, beside lidos,

restaurants and shops until the brand new pier which is the

perfect place to sip an aperitif; in an earlier age, D’Annunzio used

to spend his holidays here with the actress Eleonora Duse, as

did King Victor Emmanuel III, Puccini, Marconi and Mussolini,

frequent guests at the villa of Senator Rolandi Ricci, now the

Hotel Ariston. The town of Camaiore, whose lido is its seaside

offshoot, extends up into the Apuan Alps and is perched on the

hills of Seimiglia and the plain of Capezzano, famous for the

production of strawberries and fl owers.

Any mention of “Versilia” must inevitably include “Forte dei Marmi”. We are now entering historic Versilia (with Seravezza,

Stazzema and Pietrasanta). The name derives from the small

fort which stands in the centre of the town, built by Grand Duke

Pietro Leopoldo at the end of the eighteenth century, and from

the marble which came from the nearby quarries in the Alps

and was shipped from here. There is an intriguing Museum of

Satire and Caricature inside the fort. Forte dei Marmi is nowadays

the holiday resort for politicians and sports and showbusiness

personalities. The town has many clubs, discos and shops selling

luxury goods, even though the main attraction is the beach with its

extraordinarily fi ne golden sand and the beach huts overlooking

the avenue of the seafront. The architecture includes villas

designed by architects such as Gio Ponti and Giuseppe Pagano,

historic villas that belonged to the leading families of Italian

history such as the Agnellis, and the Capannina discotheque

53

On these pages: above, three views of the beaches of Versilia;

on the left, a firework display in Viareggio.

The “Bistecca alla Fiorentina” – the Florentine T-bone steak –

has a long history. Its importance increased with the Medici

family who, on the feast day of San Lorenzo on the 10th

August, illuminated the city with enormous bonfires used to

roast steaks which were then distributed amongst the city’s

inhabitants. The story goes that there were English people

present who referred to the meat as beef steak: this led to

the Italianised term “bistecca”, which is obtained from cuts

of the loin of Chianina breed bullocks. There is a T-shaped

bone in the middle of the steak, hence the English name. The

meat is hung for two weeks in a fridge and is then cooked

on a fire stone or on the grill over charcoal made from oak,

holm-oak or olivewood. The standard T-bone steak weighs

about 1.5 kg.

which opened in 1929: this is the “Roma Imperiale” district which,

since the tourist boom in the sixties, has represented “Versilia” in

the collective imagination.

In the historic part of Versilia, visitors can admire Pietrasanta -

the “Small Athens” -, the meeting point of sculptors who came

from all over the world to work marble and bronze. The numerous

galleries give it the appearance of a miniature city of art, while the

small streets of the old town contain important sculptures such as

The Warrior by Fernando Botero. Seravezza gives its name to the

two rivers Vezza and Serra, which join to form the river Versilia.

The town is dominated by the sixteenth century Medici Palace,

which houses the Museo del Lavoro e delle Tradizioni Popolari

della Versilia Storica (the Museum of Work and Folk Traditions

in Historical Versilia). Lastly, there is Stazzema, the smallest and

highest town in the area, the ideal base for setting off on trips on

foot or bicycle.

Torre del Lago is the destination of opera lovers from all over

the world. The town takes its name from the 15th century tower

which overlooks Lake Massaciuccoli. Since 1938 Puccini has been

added to its name in honour of the composer who lived in Torre

del Lago and composed many of his works there: Torre del Lago Puccini is now the complete name of the town. The Puccini

residence stands on the viewpoint of the lake and houses the

composer’s tomb. The seafront of Torre del Lago is packed with

tourists in summer due to the presence of discos and clubs on the

beach of Lecciona.

Lastly, “Versilia” is also associated in people’s minds with

“Viareggio”. The city, which overlooks the sea with 10 km of

beach, of which 6 are occupied by lidos and 4 are freely accessible

to the public, is the heart of Tuscan seaside tourism. The eclectic

buildings in Art Nouveau and Art Déco styles give the centre and

the promenade an elegant and sophisticated quality: the area is

overlooked by the famous Teatro Politeama. Viareggio is also one

of Italy’s most famous cities due to its Carnival: throughout the

year it is possible to visit the Museo e la Cittadella del Carnevale

(Carnival Museum and Citadel), with warehouses and workshops

where the papier mâchè floats are made for the following year’s

Fiorentina: a brief history of a legend

procession. In the pine forests and woods of Ponente and Levante,

there are numerous cycle paths and footpaths with sports facilities

set in the woodland, just a stone’s throw away from the sea. Since

late nineteenth century, when the Nettuno and Balena lidos were

established, the “Pearl of the Tyrrhenian” offers a complete holiday

experience: sea, countryside, fun and fashion.

54

Isolad’ElbaA gem of

an islandTHE ISLAND

OF ELBA

Legend has it that the Island of Elba

and other islands in the Tuscan

Archipelago were created from the

gems of Venus’ diadem which fell

into the sea. This was the reason for their beauty

and led to the name of “Queens of the Tyrrhenian

Sea”. One island and many small islands, which

ancient peoples tried to conquer by fi ghting

against the terrible shearwaters, the “talking

birds” who were the incarnation of the tormented

souls of sailors who had lost their lives at sea.

In antiquity, not even the most precise nautical

maps could identify the presence and position

of the numerous rocks around the isle of Elba.

The waves breaking against the rocks provide

a unique spectacle of unbridled nature.

55

Elba is a minute piece of land in the middle of the sea with

an eventful and turbulent history. The fate of the island has

always been determined by two factors: its strategic position

and the wealth of the minerals in its subsoil. As a conse-

quence, it has often been fought over, a sought-after base

from which the leading powers of the Mediterranean could

control trade routes along the Italian coast. For the Etruscans

the iron of Elba was a source of wealth and contributed to the

prosperity of their civilisation.

Archaeologists have brought to light two incredibly rich pa-

trician villas near the spa complex of the island: the Romans

also appreciated Elba for its iron ore but especially for the

healing properties of its thermal mud. During the Middle Ages Pisa gained control of the island which preserves the

traces of Pisan rule in the form of defensive fortifications.

This was followed by the Renaissance signories and Cosi-mo I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, who built his Cos-mopoli (now Portoferraio) on the ruins of the Roman Fabricia

in 1548, providing it with strong defensive walls to protect

the inhabitants from pirate raids.

Elba can be described as a fortified island. The Spanish, for

example, after making their base at Porto Azzurro, built the

seventeenth century Fort of San Giacomo. Now a prison, the

fort enjoyed a privileged position and had such an impos-

ing defensive structure that the English, Germans and French

had to resort to military force to gain possession of it. Of all

the historical events that befell it, the one that made the is-

land famous was the brief period of exile of Napoleon, who

stayed there for ten months (between 1814 and 1815) before

returning secretly to Paris and regaining power. Napoleon

was undoubtedly not treated as a prisoner, as he had been

at Sant’Elena: at Elba, Bonaparte became king and there are

still sumptuous Napoleonic residences which testify to this

historical episode.

History, monuments and art have always been enclosed with-

in 147 km of coastline and all types of beaches, ranging from

low sandy beaches to small pebbly coves, from large expanses

of black sand to stretches of white pebbles, and even beaches

of granite.

Elba’s uniqueness lies in the enormous variety of environments,

from which it is possible to discover unexpected panoramic

views. The most famous view point for scanning the horizon

over the crystal clear waters of the Tyrrhenian sea is Mount Ca-

panne, the highest point of the island (1019 metres). On clear

days, it is possible to make out Corsica and some of the islands

along the archipelago: Pianosa, Capraia, Montecristo and Gor-

gona. The slopes of Mount Capanne are covered in Mediterra-

nean scrub and large granite boulders, beneath some of which

several ancient settlements are hidden, while other boulders

have been eroded by the wind, forming strange shapes that have

earned the name “Stone monsters”. The whole landscape is dot-

ted with beautiful wild orchids. To reach the summit of Mount

Capanne, besides the numerous paths which are a paradise for

enthusiastic trekkers and cyclists, there is also a two-seater ca-

bleway which leaves from Marciana and take visitors in just a

few minutes to enjoy a unique 360 degree view stretching from

the sky to the sea.

Elba is the largest island in the Tuscan Archipelago, made

up of seven main islands (besides Elba, in order of size,

Giglio, Capraia, Montecristo, Pianosa, Gorgona, and Giannu-

tri), three minor islands (Palmaiola, Cerboli, the “Formiche di

Grosseto”), sandbanks and reefs situated between the coast

of Livorno and Corsica. The archipelago is surrounded by

both the Ligurian Sea and the Tyrrhenian Sea, linked by the

Channel of Piombino and the Channel of Corsica. The islands

all share the “bright” sea, which is a favourite destination of

scuba divers, an unspoilt vegetation as well as the opportuni-

ty to enjoy a holiday in stunning natural surroundings.

A fragment of history

surrounded by blue sea

Opposite page: a view of Portoferraio. Above: two views of the sea

and a beach on the Island of Elba.

«

56

One small island, many small towns

tions, customs and economies emerged in each place. One exam-

ple is the municipality of San Piero, whose economy was based

exclusively on granite mining (there is a very interesting itinerary

called “Vie del granito” – the granite trail), and the nearby munic-

ipality of Marciana, a picturesque place which has always been

associated with the cultivation of chestnuts and timber and with

sheep-farming. An even starker contrast exists between Rio, the

mining town, Porto Azzurro, the power base under Spanish rule,

and Portoferraio, the city-principality which welcomed Cosimo

I de’ Medici and Napoleon. Nowadays, the differences between

one town and another can only be observed in the customs, food

and, in particular, in the local dialect.

Equally renowned is the town of Capoliveri, perched on a hill,

now one of the most typical and active towns of Elba. It is a fasci-

nating place with a rich history and linked to the other towns with

a free shuttle service which encourages visitors to travel around

according to the various events organised both during the day

and the evening. Its distinctive feature is the classical architecture

of the medieval town with narrow lanes and picturesque arches

(known as “chiassi”), craft workshops and unpretentious restau-

rants where visitors can taste local dishes. Its name derives from

the Latin term Caput Liberum, “sacred to Bacchus”: for millennia,

the town has been associated with excellent grapes and excellent

wine. Each year at the end of September, to celebrate the Festa dell’Uva (Grape and Wine Festival), the four districts of Fosso,

Torre, Fortezza and Baluardo challenge each other by staging cho-

reographies based on different themes of the grape harvest. The

Festa dell’Innamorata (The Lovers’ Festival) is held on 14th July

and is based on the old legend of two young lovers (Lorenzo and

Maria), while the Festa del Cavatore (Miners’ festival) is held in

early May and celebrates the old mining origins of the island.

Elba offers much more than just its beautiful seaside. It is an is-

land really worth exploring with fascinating traditions that should

be experienced to the full.

In 1557 Cosimo I de’ Medici, while creating an imposing system

of defences to protect the island from Turkish pirates, built Cos-

mopoli. The Falcone Fort and Stella Fort were constructed on the

promontory while the Linguella Fort, together with the Martello

Tower, were built in defence of the harbour, all of them linked

by a fortifi ed wall: it formed an invincible citadel! The town soon

changed its name to Portoferraio, partly following the tradition

of transporting iron. From being the outpost of the Medici grand

duchy, it has now become the main tourist port of the island.

The island offers pleasant surprises, especially for visitors who

imagine it merely as a place of sunshine, sea and beaches. The

island, which extends for just 224 sq.km, is subdivided into eight

municipalities which, until very recently, were extremely different

from each other and so isolated that completely different tradi-

A part of Elba’s fame stems from its wines which, in Roman

times, led it to be known as Insula vini ferax (wine-rich island);

in medieval times, its wines were served at the tables of the Popes

while in the eighteenth century the island’s wines fi lled the holds

of commercial vessels. Procanico, Sangioveto,’Elba Bianco and

Elba Rosso are the classic high quality DOC wines; the island is

also famous for dessert wines such as Ansonica Passita, Moscato

and Aleatico. The island’s cuisine, which is equally distinctive,

has been infl uenced by the presence of numerous cultural tradi-

tions: the schiaccia briaca is a cake which was originally made

without alcohol (in accordance with the strictures of the Koran)

and has pine nuts and sultanas, typically oriental ingredients.

The use of the sweet red Aleatico wine, an essential part of the

current version of the cake, is a later nineteenth century addition,

as are the walnuts, which are not grown on the island and were

therefore extremely costly in the past.

Tastes of distant lands

Province: Livorno

Altitude: 4 m asl

Inhabitants: 12 224

Tourist information:

Azienda di Promozione Turistica

Calata Italia, 26 - Tel. +39 0565 914671

www.turismo-elba.it

57

Wondersunder the sea

are slightly shallower but just as interesting. The dive involves a

descent that follows the rocky seabed which, at a depth of 15-20

metres, creates intriguing hollows inhabited by a great number of

bright yellow cluster anemones (parazoanthus axinellae). The lively

colour, alongside the blue walls, can also be seen near to Punta Bianca where the reefs rise to only a few metres below the surface.

There are also small caves inhabited by hundreds of red prawns.

Moreover, in the cove of Portoferraio there is an islet with a var-

ied seabed, while along the northern side of the island, the coast-

al waters often begin with stretches of boulders, patches of sand

and sandy plains until, with the aid of flippers, divers can reach

long reefs with a distinctive profile which drop down to a depth of

about 50 metres. Among the rocks it is not unusual to spot a few

groupers. Other areas of interest for scuba diving include Punta della Madonna, Capo Stella, Capo Caldo, Capo d’Enfola with

the large rock known as Scoglio della Nave, and the large sand-

bank known as Secca del Careno which rises to up to 14-20 me-

tres from the surface.

One of the few opportunities for scuba diving off Elba that does not

require a boat is the dive to discover the “wreck of Pomonte”: rest-

ing on a detrital seabed, at a depth of 12 metres, is the hull of the

ship Elviscot which sank in 1972 during heavy seas. Among the

metal plates of the wreck, it is possible to spot conger eels, white

sea bream and octopus amid the play of light that penetrates the

ship’s portholes.

Elba is the perfect training ground for divers of all levels of ability

and experience! In Campo nell’Elba, Marciana, Rio Marina, Ca-

poliveri, Porto Azzurro, Marciana Marina and Portoferraio there

are well-equipped scuba diving centres for anyone interested in

exploring the marvels of Elba’s undersea world.

The seabed of Elba is home to an exhaustive “sample” of the im-

mense natural heritage of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The numerous caves

and numerous narrow passageways between the rocks provide stun-

ning views. There is also fascinating submerged evidence of ancient

maritime trade routes: it is not unusual to find fragments of ancient

amphorae. There are also traces of the modern era on the seabed: for

example, beyond the lighthouse of Portoferraio, 37 metres below the

surface, lies the wreckage of a Junkers 52 plane of the German Luftwaffe, shot down on 9th September 1944; on the muddy sea-

bed, around the wreck, it is possible to encounter large spiny lobsters,

European lobsters and the sunfish. In the area of Punta Nasuto,

visitors can enjoy an underwater itinerary that leads through large

shoals of damselfish and reaches the base of the reef at a depth of

about 42 metres. The view around these submerged islands is quite

extraordinary: shoals of white sea bream and brown meagres within

the deep fissures, conger eels peering out from the rocks and beau-

tiful anthias. The reef also provides an incredibly rich barrier of coral!

The so-called “Formiche della Zanca” are one of the most beautiful

areas for scuba diving off the northern coast of Elba: the name refers

to a group of rocks that rise out of the water and whose most spec-

tacular side faces Capraia, with high rocky spires and a deep gully

inhabited by brown meagres. Below a depth of 45 metres, the fan-

tastic seabed is covered by the sea fans of the red paramuricea clavata,

which provides a stunning subject for photography together with the

shoals of anthias and damselfish that move between its branches.

One of the areas that attracts many scuba divers to Elba lies just off

Capo Fonza, in a splendid and easily identifiable sandbank which,

at a depth of 40 metres, is characterised by fissures and small caves

with lobsters, white sea bream and moray eels. The reefs of the

Scogli dei Gemini, close to the western coast of Capo Calamita,

Opposite page: a view of Poggio, in the Commune of Marciana Marina. This page, above: the wreck of the Elviscot; the splendid sea depths of the island of Elba.

58

MarcheThe only region in Italy with a plural

name: the Marche are in fact made

up of many small Municipalities.

Small Communes characterized by

the presence of the Apennines which gently descend

towards the sea, an outlook onto the Adriatic which,

further south, becomes deeper and is laced with

interminable soft sandy beaches. Every corner of

this region has a different look but they all share

one aspect: beauty. A characteristic that has

inspired some truly unforgettable masterpieces,

executed by the famous names of Italian art

and culture who have come from this region.

Nature and culture: a region’s trademark

MARCHE

59

A land of great personalities, from Giacomo Leopardi and Raf-faello, to Giovan Battista Pergolesi and Gioacchino Ross-ini, who were all born here. A land of art cities and historical

hamlets, set between the hills, facing the sea and the valleys of

the Apennines. A land of artworks of inestimable value, such

as the masterpieces of Piero della Francesca, Raffaello, Loren-

zo Lotto, Tiepolo, Giovanni Bellini, Rubens and Tiziano. A land

of archaeological remains, crossed by the roads of the Ancient

Rome as they wound their way towards the rest of the peninsu-

la. A land of museums, libraries, theatres and castles, but also

one of great religious faith, dotted with abbeys and monasteries.

The Marche, in fact, are an ancient region dating back thou-

sands of years but, at the same time, one of great modernity

and innovation, with an enduring sense of values and traditions

from which to draw inspiration and creativity, which materialize

in local craftsmanship and industry. The combination of culture

and nature is the secret of an enviable lifestyle: it is no surprise,

therefore, if the inhabitants of this region have the longest life

expectancy in Italy!

Apart from preserving the past and its traditions, great attention

is also focused on the environment: there are twelve protected areas, comprising two national parks (the Park of the Sibillini

Mountains, the Gran Sasso Park and the Laga National Park),

four regional parks (Mount Conero, Sasso Simone and Simon-

cello, Mount San Bartolo, Gola della Rossa and Frasassi) and six natural reserves, added to which there are over one hundred

areas for the protection of wild flowers, fifteen “public” forests

and over sixty centres for environmental education.

The Sibillini Mountains represent a bridge between a myth-

ical past and the triumph of nature: the landscape of these cal-

careous mountains, over an altitude of 1700 metres, is a blaze of

delightful martagon lilies, Eugenia’s pansies and edelweiss of

the Apennines, and is still haunted by the magical presence of

the Sibyl: a sorceress, so the story narrates, who was condemned

to live in a cave high up in the mountain, for having turned

against God. The latest expedition to explore the cavern which,

according to the legend, has a tunnel leading to the centre of the

earth, took place in 1953, then an attempt to widen the entrance

provoked a landslide that sealed it forever, and the enigma of

the Sibyl lies hidden in the heart of the mountain. Because of

this and other legends, the “Blue Mountains”, as Leopardi called

them, continue to hold their mysterious charm: another story

tells that the body of Pontius Pilate was dragged here by a herd

of buffaloes and thrown into the waters of the lake which now

bears his name. It is the only natural lake in the Marche, situat-

ed at an altitude of over 1800 metres. Here too, natural wonders

go hand in hand with the rich fabric of history.

Speaking of natural wonders, Mount Conero immediately

comes to mind with its high cliffs plunging into the sea. The

Mediterranean maquis dominates the landscape which is cov-

ered with broom in spring and strawberry trees in Autumn. A

paradise for birdwatchers. And for those who seek history and

culture in a natural setting, looking out onto breathtaking sea-

scapes, there is no shortage of prehistoric cave drawings, Ro-

man caves, Benedictine and Franciscan abbeys and monasteries,

as well as the Pini archaeological area with its Picene necrop-

olis in Sirolo, defensive buildings such as Napoleonic Fort and Clementina Tower in Portonovo. Visitors are spoilt for choice. But

beauty is a constant presence.

Living the good life,

surrounded by history

Opposite page: Apennine landscape near Amandola. Above from the left:

the famous Hill of Infinity which inspired Giacomo Leopardi;

the ruins of the Roman theatre of Helvia Recina; view of the Sibillini Mountains.

Before reaching maturity, they are immersed in a potassium

hydroxide solution that eliminates their bitter flavour, be-

fore being washed several times and preserved in brine. This

is the method used to prepare the most typical speciality of

the Marche: olives “all’Ascolana”. After removing the stone

with a spiral utensil, the cavity is filled with minced meat

(or fish in the seaside version) which has been previously

cooked and deglazed with white wine and herbs, to which

spices, breadcrumbs, egg yolk and grated parmesan cheese

are added. Then the olives,

which are filled and patted

back into shape, are then

coated with breadcrumbs

and fried. Pure bliss.

The exquisite pleasure of olives

60

«

Urbino, the Renaissance interpreted as a city

the eastern side of the Duke’s Palace there is an Egyptian obelisk

dated 580 B.C., donated to the city in 1737 by Cardinal Albani

(whose name has also been given to the Diocesan Museum). As

we continue our trail through this harmonious medley of dif-

ferent ages, at just a short distance from here, we come across

the gothic Church of Saint Dominick, with its elegant Renais-

sance portal. Urbino was the birthplace of Raffaello Sanzio and

in Via Raffaello it is possible to see the 16th century home of

the artist, now a house museum in which the Madonna and Child fresco is preserved, also thought to be his work. Also dedicated

to Raffaello is the monument standing at the end of the street, a

tribute by the city to one of the icons of Italian art in the world.

The fourteenth century Albornoz Fortress is the highest point in

the city and provides a charming location, in summer months,

for numerous concerts of contemporary music.

At a short distance from the houses in the city centre, the mau-

soleum of Frederick of Montefeltro stands guard over the city

(the Church of San Bernardino degli Zoccolanti), so that what

he conceived as the most fascinating art laboratory in the Pen-

insula might never forget its origins and its lofty ambition. He

certainly looks down with a smile, seeing the most prestigious

art city of the Marche excel in culture and above all, in the warm

hospitality it offers to tourists. It really is the ideal city.

Today, the entire city of Urbino is a UNESCO human heritage

site and, centuries ago, it was one of the capitals of the Re-

naissance. Its protagonist was Duke Frederick of Montefeltro,

who commissioned the construction of the Duke’s Palace, a

palatial dwelling that was one of the fi nest in Europe, and the

symbol of this city. In ancient times the fi rst inhabited areas

were the valleys of the rivers Metauro and Foglia, which the

Romans called Urvinum. Owing to its strategic position, it im-

mediately became the object of dispute in the feudal age. This

was when the house of Montefeltro appeared on the scene,

along with Frederick, patron of the arts and originator of the

artistic splendour of the dukedom: his palace became a “palace city”, where the most illustrious artists, philosophers, math-

ematicians and musicians lived and worked… Urbino is the

“ideal city” and embodies the principles of Humanism and the

Renaissance, continuing to expand until 1631, when it was tak-

en over by the Pontifi cal State. The Duke’s Palace now houses

the National Gallery of the Marche, which occupies all of the

palace halls restored so far on the fi rst two fl oors for a total

of about 80 rooms displaying paintings on wood and canvas,

frescoes, sculptures, inlay artworks, furniture, tapestries and

drawings.

Next to the Duke’s Palace, in a decidedly different style, stands

the Cathedral, recon-

structed in a neoclassical

style towards the end of

the 18th century: it con-

tains two masterpieces by

Federico Barocci, the Last

Supper and the Martyrdom

of Saint Sebastian. Facing

Province: Pesaro - Urbino

Altitude: 485 m asl

Inhabitants: 15 627

Tourist information:

Centro IAT Urbino

piazza Rinascimento 1

Tel. +39 0722 2613

www.turismo.pesarourbino.it

Above: the Duke’s Palace

of Urbino and, in the background,

the Cathedral dome.

On the left: view of the town.

61

Velvety beaches

beautiful scenic road, not forgetting Marotta di Mondolfo, a

seaside resort with its ancient medieval village.

When on the Riviera di Velluto around Ancona, Falconara

Marittima, but particularly Senigallia are the ideal spots for

those seeking fine white sandy beaches, broken only by piers

and the picturesque Rotonda a Mare, a circular sea terrace. 13

kilometres of coastline with a rich offering of accommodation

facilities dominated by the Rocca Roveresca, just a few steps

away from the old town centre.

The Riviera del Conero, on the other hand, has a completely

different aura with Portonovo, Sirolo and the two locations of

Numana: the atmosphere in Numana Alta is a moving one,

owing to its position perched high above the sea and the ex-

istence of little beaches sheltering between the cliffs, while

Numana Bassa, also called Marcelli, offers a more dynamic

seaside holiday, with its pebbly coastline and a plentiful offer-

ing of accommodation and entertainment. From Numana, it is

possible to take a boat and reach the more intimate beaches,

exploiting this resort’s vocation as a natural harbour, a feature

the ancient Piceni had already identified as the strong point of

this place (archaeological remains of this ancient civilization

are exhibited in the Numana State Antiquarium).

The Riviera of Macerata is set in the natural greenery of its

pinewoods: Porto Recanati, the “drawing room of the Riviera”,

is a modern seaside resort that successfully cohabits with the

charming and picturesque corners of the old seafaring village,

which developed around the fifteenth century Svevo Castle;

Civitanova Marche rises on the remains of the Roman settle-

ment Cluana and, as well as its seaside, offers the possibility to

shop in the many outlets of the best fashion designers.

This leaves us with the green Riviera Picena, which rotates

around Porto Sant’Elpidio, Lido di Fermo and Porto San Gior-

gio, and the exotic Riviera delle Palme, where as many as

7,000 palm trees are the leitmotiv of the numerous resorts in

this area, the most important of which is San Benedetto del Tronto, very popular with the nineteenth century nobility, who

added a note of elegance to the long white beach by erecting a

great number of holiday homes in art nouveau style.

The coastline of the Marche region looks onto the Adriatic

sea for over 180 kilometres, with more than 15 well organ-

ized seaside resorts, ten ports and harbours (comprising An-cona, which is one of the most important seaports of Italy, and

nine tourist marinas) and as many as 16 Blue Flag locations,

an international award conferred by the “Foundation for Envi-

ronmental Education” (FEE) certifying the quality of the local

seawater and services.

At this point, and with the assurance that whatever you choose,

you can’t go wrong, you just have to decide between fine sandy

beaches, pebble coves, rocks or palms. In brief, which “Rivi-

era” will you choose to spend a relaxing and enjoyable holiday

on? The Riviera delle Colline, for instance, is one long sandy

beach interrupted by a headland in the proximity of the pret-

ty resort, Gabicce Mare, and presents brief stretches of pebbly

beaches and deep water. Gabicce extends over two levels: the

lower part, positioned on the gulf, is surrounded by vegetation,

while the upper part of town is perched above the sea and

ideal for an evening out with its nightclubs and characteristic

restaurants (owing to its position it is called Gabicce Monte).

The more romantically inclined must visit the harbour of Baia Vallugola and the Castle of Gradara, a scenario of magical

atmospheres and events of times gone by (the castle “of the

lovers” Paolo and Francesca, narrated by Dante Alighieri). Pe-saro and Fano are also well worth a visit and are linked by a

Above: the beach of Numana. On the left: the beach of Sirolo.

62

LazioSet between

ancient splendour and modern gems

LATIUM

An ancient land that represents the

true cradle of Italian civilization.

While Rome, with its international

fame and prestige, is certainly the

most important destination for tourists from all

over the world, it should not be overlooked that

there are other locations in Latium of great interest:

from the Etruscan necropolises excavated in tufa

stone to the numerous Roman archaeological

sites, as well as a succession of buildings, villas,

castles and monuments of different ages that have

been accumulated down through the centuries

to create a harmonious bridge between past and

present. Just like the countless village festivals

that manage to create an atmosphere of ancient

folklore for our present-day enjoyment.

63

The native land of the Latini, Etruscans and Romans, Latium re-

veals the signs of a magnificent past in each corner of its territo-

ry. The most northern part of the region around Viterbo is called

Tuscia, which is pure Etruscan; the area close to the borders of

Umbria, Marche and Abruzzo is Sabina, which extends from

the banks of the Tiber to the homonymous hills of the Central

Apennine chain, in the province of Rieti; finally, the Circeo is a

promontory before which lie the Pontine islands and compris-

es the area extending to the Alban mounts, in the province of

Latina. To the south of Rome, you will encounter the Ciociaria,

which takes its name from the traditional footwear called ciocie

and includes the area of Frosinone. These few elements would

suffice to trace a sufficiently ancient and vivid picture to show

how coveted this area has always been. An account of the myth-

ical foundation of Rome will even lead to digressions into the

world of legends and epic storytelling, such as when the profile

of the sorceress Circe, the enchantress of Ulysses in the Od-

yssey, is recognizable in the morphology of the homonymous

headland (the Circeo), or when narrating the story of Aene-as, the protagonist of the Aeneid who, fleeing from the city of

Troy, reaches Latium and marries Lavinia, daughter of the local

king Latinus. Romulus and Remus, the she-wolf, the count-

less mythological tales: everything has contributed to creating

an atmosphere of mystery and legend around the territory of

Latium. But it is not all imagination and literature: in Latium, as

perhaps in no other place, archaeological evidence transforms

everything into something more tangible. All the most impor-

tant roads in Italy started out from Rome (in 44 B.C. Caesar was

the first ever to recruit geographers to draw up maps of all exist-

ing roads), passed through Latium and continued their course

along the Peninsula to unite cities in a way that responded to a

set of precise criteria. It is still possible to travel down many of

these roads today, such as via Amerina in Corchiano, via Cassia

Antica in Campagnano, via della Pineta della Campana in Net-

tuno, or via Sacra in Rocca di Papa, a beautiful paved road that

used to lead to the top of Monte Cavo, where the Temple of

Jupiter used to stand, an important sanctuary of the Latini and

other populations of South Latium. Another treasure of Latium

are its necropolises, excavated in the rock in the past and deco-

rated with incredible sumptuousness. For instance, the necrop-

olis of Tarquinia extends for about 750 hectares with its 200

chamber tombs characterised by painted decorations, testifying

to the evolution of the Etruscan civilization from the VII to the

III century B.C.

And this is the rich cultural breeding ground on which the Ro-

man Empire was based and was to evolve later, an empire which

became “official” under Augustus and was destined to undergo

a transformation in the course of time, leaving traces of its pas-

sage in every subsequent age, up until the present day. An em-

pire that revolved constantly around its capital. An empire that

made enormous efforts to “Romanize” the lands it conquered

and which grew excessively to the point of crumbling under the

blows inflicted by younger and more vital kingdoms. An empire

that suffered from the presence of Christianity (today the Pope’s

seat is in the Vatican City, in the very heart of Rome). An empire

that has fired the imagination of the populations and powerful

figures of every age, as in the case of the Fascist regime, which

set out to recover the rituals and symbols of Ancient Rome to

consecrate its own power. To imitate the expansionistic exploits

of his valorous ancestors, Mussolini guided the “conquest” of

Ethiopia and the foundation of new towns on the Italian soil:

a perfect example is provided by Latina, the most important

town created during the fascist era (1932), built around Piazza

del Popolo and Piazza della Libertà, so unique in fact that it is a

candidate for UNESCO heritage listing.

In the cradle of the empire

Opposite page: a stretch of the Via Appia Antica. This page, clockwise: remains of the Roman aqueduct of Tarquinia; a view of the Imperial Forums in Rome; Piazza del Popolo in Latina.

64

«

Romecaput mundi

are in a truly historical capital city. A city in which Augustus

could erect incredible constructions on the Palatino and Nero

could build palaces like the Domus Aurea. Without forget-

ting the imperial Forums, a truly amazing and fascinating

revelation once you grasp the concept of their organization.

At just a short distance from the Forums, you can set off on

a tour of ministries and the most important institution-al buildings: the changing of the guard at the Quirinale,

a civil marriage ceremony at the Campidoglio, the comings

and goings of the authorities under the Column of Marcus Aurelius in front of Palazzo Chigi, are all events that attract

a crowd!

Not to mention the tour of Rome’s artworks, which would

take more than one lifetime to complete: from Caravaggio’s

paintings in San Luigi dei Francesi to the works of the Cap-itolini Museums and the Borghese Gallery, to end up with

the inestimable wealth of the Vatican Museums and the

Sistine Chapel, to mention but a few.

A visit to the cinema locations of Rome can be an innova-

tive and extremely interesting experience: in the film studios

of Cinecittà it is possible to admire the reconstructions of the

great films sets or the amazing set of Ancient Rome (used for

television serials, films and documentaries of all kinds) and

find out more about great Italian film stars, also by examining

their props. The gallery dedicated to Alberto Sordi, one of the

most world-famous Roman actors, is particularly significant.

This list could go on forever with various theme suggestions.

What never disappoints visitors, however, is the theme trail

focused on getting to know the old Roman quarters: from

Trastevere to Testaccio and Campo dei Fiori. What could

be more authentic than enjoying a dish of Amatriciana, Car-

bonara or some saltimbocca, with your heart filled with love

for the eternal city and all it has to offer, wherever you hap-

pen to look.

Nothing could be closer to the truth: Rome is a hub of his-

tory, art and culture. A cosmopolitan city which is not only

the capital of the Italian Republic, but also one of the most

fascinating places on earth. It is difficult to attempt a descrip-

tion of this city in a few lines since it represents layer upon

layer of different ages, monuments and opportunities that

defy definition. A visit to Rome may follow a thousand dif-

ferent themes and leitmotifs: there is the traditional tourist

trail, recommended for those on their first visit with only a

limited amount of time, which leads to the Colosseum (or

rather the Flavian Amphitheatre), the Imperial Forums, the

Altar of the Homeland (or Vittoriano), the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona and the Spanish Steps. Without forgetting

to stop off at St. Peter’s Square in the Vatican City to visit the

famous Basilica.

But there are plenty of minor curiosities to explore in the city:

you can go for a tour of the seven hills, Capitolino, Aventi-

no, Palatino, Viminale, Esquilino, Celio and Quirinale, to find

out what remains of the legend. Or it is possible to go round the seven churches and early Christian relics, including

a visit to the fascinating catacombs. Or why not follow the

course of the River Tiber, and experience the surprise of a

close-up view of the majestic Castel Sant’Angelo and the

precious little jewel of imperial Roman art, the Ara Pacis.

Without forgetting a tour of the ruins. The discovery of An-

cient Rome, in fact, is the only way to understand its propor-

tions, dimensions and power: when you observe the Baths of Caracalla in their magnificence or you walk down the Appia Antica, which never seems to end, under the shade of its

cluster pines, or when you consider that a whole stadium lies

beneath Piazza Navona... you fully grasp the fact that you

Province: Rome

Altitude: 21 m asl

Inhabitants: 2 786 034

Tourist information:

PIT Punto Informazioni Turistiche

Termini Railway Station - Via G. Giolitti 34,

Int. building F – platform 24

Fori - Via dei Fori Imperiali

Navona - Piazza delle Cinque Lune

Contact Center 060608

www.turismoroma.it

65

Castles,hills and flower festivals

the Savelli Family’s castle in the Papal Palace: inside, it houses the

Vatican astronomical observatory (“Specola Vaticana”), one of the

most important of its kind today. Here too, everything comprising

archaeological remains and fine construction work, such as the

Church of Saint Thomas of Villanova, was signed by Gian Lorenzo

Bernini. The long list of locations well worth visiting could go on

to include Frascati, Grottaferrata, Monte Porzio Catone, Rocca di

Papa, Marino and so on.

The municipalities populating the area of Latium which now of-

fers the greatest number of events come to life with their profane

grape festivals and the religious “flower festivals” known as

“infiorate”: the most ancient one in the world is that of Genzano

which takes place on the day of Corpus Domini (the first one dates

back to 1778). That of the flower festivals is an ancient tradition

demanding the participation of master “infioratori” to compose

enormous floral pavement mosaics representing artworks, docu-

ments and sacred images, all made from the petals of any type of

flower. All of the 86 Municipalities of Latium engaged in flower

festivals between April and May offer an amazing show and an

elegant blaze of colours.

“Ma che ‘cce frega, ma che ‘cce ‘mporta” is a song that has gone

around the world. It may also be considered a dedication to the

Castles, that particular territory dotted with medieval villages,

charming little towns, ancient hamlets, stately mansions, castles

and archaeological remains extending over an area lying to the

south east of Rome. The landscape and natural environment are

protected by the Regional Park of the Roman Castles, extending

over the Alban Hills, which used to be an area frequented by the

capital’s noble families and popes for their vacations, with about

9,500 hectares of protected land, covered by a thick network of

country paths inhabited by badgers, martens, peregrine falcons,

porcupines and wolves. Of the many trails extending between the

sixteen municipalities making up this area, the most well-known

is the one starting out from Lanuvio, a village close to Velletri,

surrounded by fortified walls where, once inside, visitors feel as

though they have entered another dimension, to be catapulted

into the Middle Ages, owing to the perfect preservation of its

ancient buildings. These include the X century medieval Tower,

which houses the municipal wine cellar, the ideal place in which

to taste the fine DOC wines of the Castles. From here, a pano-

ramic road leads to Genzano, a little town on the via Appia locat-

ed on the crater of Lake Nemi. The houses here are constructed

in a curious radial pattern over the hill: of its streets, the most

important are the three roads that were constructed in the 17th

century and which make up the so-called “Baroque trident”.

From Genzano, you can go on to visit Ariccia, where Palazzo

Chigi represents one of the finest examples of European Baroque,

with its original furnishings still intact, portraits of the female per-

sonages of this family and an extremely precious printed leather

used as a wall covering. When in Ariccia, you have to taste its

famous spit-roasted pork! Now it is time to set off for Albano La-ziale, which rises on the volcanic hills whose name it has adopted

and which faces the homonymous lake: here it is possible to pay a

very interesting visit to the “Cisternone”, an underground cistern

constructed by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus and which

still supplies its waters to an operative aqueduct today. This Ro-

man town used to have its own amphitheatre on the hill and it is

possible to admire a large tomb in tufa stone which is said to be

that of the legendary Horatii and Curiatii, as well as the fascinat-

ing catacombs of San Senatore (one of the largest underground

cemeteries known to man).

The last stopover is Castelgandolfo, which has always been the

Popes’ summer residence, and is the 17th century makeover of

The inhabitants of Ariccia claim it as their own, on the grounds that

it dates back to Etruscan times. There are two basic ways of seasoning

this meat: in the area of the Roman Castles, where it is eaten with the

bread of Genzano in venues called “fraschette”, it is seasoned with rose-

mary; so much so, in fact, that in Ariccia it is referred to as: “la porca

co’ un bosco de rosmarino in de’ la panza” (pork with a rosemary bush

in its belly). In Upper Latium, on the other hand, it is seasoned with

wild fennel: this typical spit-roasted pork can be enjoyed in Vignanello

and Vallerano, in the Tuscia area around Viterbo. In Poggio Bustone it

has been celebrated for the last 60 years in a festival held on the first

Sunday in October, the feast day of the Madonna and Saint Francis.

Every town and village has its own

version of porchetta

Opposite page: Rome, the Colosseum. Above: the residential area

of Castel Gandolfo on Lake Albano.

66

AbruzzoThe spectacle of nature

An Adriatic coast which starts to

jag. Resorts made for families, not

too mundane nor too isolated, full of

history, like Vasto and Francavilla

al Mare. But also promontories that are refl ected

in the sea, such as the Promontorio del Turchino

(named after the colour of the water from the deep

hues, on the coast of San Vito Chietino) and Punta

Penna, which has a tower overlooking the port basin

and with a balcony from which you can enjoy a

wide panorama that goes from Gargano to Ortona.

Immediately beside the lush wild mountain with

its protected parks and the rare animal species that

inhabit them. Abruzzo is the ideal destination for a

holiday fully immersed in nature. ABRUZZO

67

Three national parks (Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise, the Majella,

and Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga), a regional park (Sirente

Velino) and around fifty protected areas, nature reserves and

territorial parks. And then there are numerous lakes with

their individual ecosystems ... Nature in Abruzzo, dominates

unchallenged. It must be discovered with curiosity and respect,

with all those means for an active holiday that are ideal to

explore the region: on foot, by bicycle, on horseback. For

cycling tourists, the numerous parks offer a rare opportunity

to move from the sea to the highest peaks of the Apennines in

a few tens of kilometres. In fact, there are many routes along

the coast or on the rugged mountains, on the hills or on the

edges of impressive ravines, around the lakes or along the

green banks of the rivers, among the beech forests or on the

highlands, in short for bikers of all levels and with routes of

varying difficulty.

While pedalling along the many dirt roads or carrarecce with

little traffic (used only by shepherds or loggers) it is not

difficult to see Romanesque churches, hidden hermitages,

ancient stone huts, medieval castles and charming villages that

speak of the discreet and deep history of this region, but are

not included in the traditional tourist routes: small realities of

the past, nestled harmoniously in a wild and relaxing setting.

Widespread for some years now in many parks and the so

called “Abruzzo bridleways” is equestrian tourism: the horse

is without a doubt the best way to introduce yourself into this

environment. Running over meadows, through woods, moving

alongside rivers or lakes is indeed a thrilling experience riding

with a companion of adventure who knows how to move in

harmony with the rhythms of the other inhabitants of these

green places, the many animals that make Abruzzo unique.

And then you will discover hidden places unreachable by car or

motor vehicles. In 2006 the Ippovia del Gran Sasso was born,

the longest horse riding circuit in Italy, which runs through the

park of the same name across the province of L’Aquila, Pescara

and Teramo with a distance of 320 Km traced and signalled

route along mule-tracks, trails and mountain roads. Along the

route there are equipped rest areas with shelters for horses

and travellers. With numerous equestrian centres where you

can “rent” a horse and an instructor, for a holiday in complete

safety even for those who are beginners.

For lovers of trekking, however, each park offers hiking trails

equipped for any type of accessibility: children, the disabled,

as well as simple tourists who want to hike in nature but are

not trained. The National Park of Majella has completed

a series of trails of varying difficulty: the path of the Grotta

Zappano, for example, in the western part of the park, to

Lama Bianca Sant’Eufemia, consisting of a walk of about 30

minutes, with equipped picnic areas. The so-called Sentiero del Parco, however, is the most comprehensive but also the

most challenging due to the 78 km linking Percocostanzo

and Popoli touching the main peaks, including Monte Amaro

(the highest at 2793 meters above sea level) and the northern

part of Morrone. A route that really winds its way into the

wilderness, passing through only one town (Caramanico) and

very few equipped refreshment points. But one itinerary that

offers a unique experience, crossing woods, pastures, crops,

but also the so-called “macereti” (rubble) of high altitude and

with a lunar-looking appearance and the most natural and

undisturbed flora and fauna population in Italy.

Green for all tastes

Opposite page: a group of chamois. Above from the left: a composition

of sugar-coated almonds from Sulmona; the church of Madonna delle Grazie

in Teramo; landscape in the National Park of Majella. Below: the coastline of Vasto.

68

«

Chieti The “Italian wonder” which

is the stuff of legends

The history of Chieti takes us back a long time, even into my-

thology: according to legend the town was founded in 1181 BC

by the hero Achilles, who called it Teate in honour of his mother,

the goddess Thetis. It is not surprising that the city’s inhabitants

today are called Theatines and that the Homeric hero is repre-

sented in the coat of arms on a prancing horse, while holding a

spear and a shield on which is depicted a white cross on a red

fi eld with four keys, representing the four gates into medieval

Chieti (Porta Sant’Anna, Porta Santa Maria, Porta Napoli and

Porta Pescara). Legends about the origin of the city actually dif-

fer; what is certain is that the city was the capital of the warlike

people of the Marrucini, famous for their fi erce fi ghting with the

Romans, to whom they surrendered and with whom they for-

med an alliance in many battles (e.g. against Pyrrhus, Hannibal

and the Cisalpine Gauls).

This ancient history is still to be seen in the city, where Roman

remains co-exist with those of the Angevins and the Aragone-

ses, who transformed the face of the town in a period of great

development. The city also boasts an entire underground city

which was the former Teate, just below the present city centre,

and which can visited on rare and precious occasions. The city’s

main street, Corso Marrucino, which starts from Piazza Trento

e Trieste (commonly known as piazza Trinità) and ends at Ar-

niense Street, in the heart of the historic centre. On this street

there are now numerous offi ces, moved here as a result of the

damage sustained by their historic premises in other areas of

the city during the L’Aquila earthquake of 6 April 2009. In the

neoclassical villa whose construction was requested by Baron

Frigerj and later donated to the municipality, tourists can not

miss the National Archaeological Museum of Abruzzo, with

a huge garden of old trees, populated by fountains, terracings

with panoramic views of the city and toward Mount Majella,

typical Italian garden hedges and small forests with illuminated

lakes, walkways and stone bridges. At the centre there is piaz-

zale Mazzini with a monumental fountain: an elegant and so-

phisticated complex which has earned the town the recognition

of “Italian Wonder” by the National Youth Forum, a partner of

the Presidency of the Council of Ministers, the European Youth

Forum and the National Agency for young people.

The magnificent city of L’Aquila is still a ghost town after the earthqua-

ke of 2009. The monuments damaged by the earthquake, in the silence of

the historic centre that is still inaccessible, tell the story of the medieval

splendour, papal influence, Spanish domination: the Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio with the Holy Door of Pope Celestine V, the

fifteenth-century Basilica di San Bernardino, the Spanish Fort and

the Fountain of 99 jets with its stone masks and the unknown origins

of the water, whose source is not known.

A city of art that is suffering, but animated by the good humour and

courage of the people of L’Aquila, who, like everyone, expect to see their

homes, the centre and its wonders live again.

L’Aquila, which does not give in

Province: Chieti

Altitude: 330 m asl

Inhabitants: 53,937

Tourist information:

Abruzzo Promozione Turismo – Chieti

Via Spaventa, 47

Tel. +39 0871 63640

www.abruzzoturismo.it

Above: the Cathedral of Chieti.

69

«On the trail of the wolf and the bearA symbol of the Abruzzo, Latim and Molise National Park, the

Marsican Brown Bear (Ursus arctos marsicanus) is a subspe-

cies that is genetically differentiated from bears in the Alps and

only live in central Italy. The latest research estimates that in

the park and surrounding areas there is a population of about

55-60 representatives of the species. It is very difficult to find

these specimens, which are between 100 and 150 kg (females

are slightly smaller) with a length which ranges from a me-

tre and a half to well over 2 metres. Each specimen can live

for more than twenty years in the forests of Abruzzo, where

they find peace and food, but also move to the highest-altitude

grasslands in different seasons, looking for a dry and safe place

to spend the winter months: the bear, in fact, when the cold

arrives falls into a partial lethargy, that allows it to cope with

low temperatures and the absence of food, but also to exit the

lair on sunny days.

Another important species, but not exclusive to the Abruz-

zo National Park, is the Apennine Wolf (Canis lupus lupus),

one of the most persecuted animals and severely threatened

with extinction. It can live alone or in small packs, hierarchi-

cally organized, and moves continuously showing great skill

in escaping hidden dangers as well as seeking its prey which

are mostly small animals, in the mild season, and ungulates

during winter. The wolf is also a very difficult animal to spot:

with mainly nocturnal habits, during the day it takes refuge in

the most wild and inaccessible parts of the forest.

The signs of its presence that are the easiest to find in the ter-

ritory are the tracks which are very similar to those of a lar-

ge dog, but arranged in a single row. Among the fauna of the

Park we certainly must not forget the native Abruzzo Cha-mois (Rupicapra pyrenaica ornata), with about 700 specimens

in the Park. It is by far the easiest protected animal to come

across, and must be observed in total silence to avoid it from

becoming frightened and fleeing. It is a herbivore, common

in grasslands at high altitudes, which descends the valley and

enters the woods in winter. In the Park it lives in the Camo-

sciara mountains (the name of the place is reminiscent of the

animal population), on Monte Meta, Mainarde, Monte Amaro,

Monte Marsicano and the mountains that surround the Can-

neto valley. The same for the deer (Cervus elaphus hippelaphus)

and the roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) almost completely di-

sappeared from the park until the Seventies, when they were

reintroduced.

To better enjoy the experience of observing these animals, Visi-

tor Centres are open to the public and are almost always com-

bined with wildlife areas, areas of fenced land in which the

animals live in a state of semi-freedom. The main function of

these areas is scientific, but they also have an important edu-

cational role: here it is possible to see those species that would

be difficult to see in the wild, without disturbing them. These

areas include the Pescasseroli wildlife park, the wildlife areas

of the wolf and lynx in Civitella Alfedena, the wildlife areas

of the bear in Villavallelonga and Campoli Appenninico,

those of the deer in Lecce dei Marsi and Scanno and that of

the chamois in Opi.

Above: an Apennine wolf. On the left: a Marsican brown bear.

70

CampaniaThe ancient Romans gave the name

Campania Felix to the prosperous

area of the city of Capua and the

neighbouring municipalities, which

extends from Monte Massico to the Phlegraean

Fields. Today, the area around the city of Naples,

Caserta, Benevento, Avellino and Salerno, still

looks like an area extremely rich in culture, the

raw material which in the course of history, from

then until the present day, has never abandoned

this coast on the Tyrrhenian Sea. A culture

that combines in a harmonious and lively way

with the wonders of nature: the Amalfi Coast,

Cilento and the many other places to discover!

The wonderful treasures of a Terra Felix

CAMPANIA

71

The city of Naples, according to the legend was founded by a

Greek girl named Parthenope, and is undoubtedly an extraor-

dinary balcony over the gulf that bears its name. A gulf and

a coastline that offer tourists archaeological sites all over the

territory, spas on the island of Ischia, in Castellammare di Sta-

bia or on the Phlegrean coast, but also wild nature parks (Ve-

suvius and Astroni), the glamour of Capri and its little square,

underwater archaeological sites such as Baia and Gaiola and

the beauty of the Amalfi Coast. Cultural tourism coexists with

beach tourism: bays, coves and isolated beaches, but also pri-

vate sailing and cruise ships!

Vesuvius keeps a silent vigil over this landscape, mindful of the

destruction in 79 AD which led it to the elimination, with its

eruption, of the towns of Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabia,

today archaeological sites (UNESCO heritage) unique in the

world due to the extraordinary conservation of the finds and of

the structures immobilised by the eruptive force in the last dra-

matic hours of their life. To add to the cultural weight of these

areas, Campania by the sea has the good food of the Mediter-

ranean tradition, the friendliness, the warmth and kindness of

the people, to complete a classic “Italian style” holiday.

Going north, the province of Caserta is ideally divided into

three big areas by the great cultural, folklore and especially

morphological variety: mountain massifs such as the Matese

or the Preapennines alternate with the plains, overlooking

the sea in Litorale Domizio, so named because of the Via

Domitiana that ran through the area at the time of the ancient

Romans. These 45 kilometres of wide and sandy coast are

covered with a varied Mediterranean vegetation that creates

beautiful ecosystems. To join the sea, culture and art, a must

is a visit to the Reggia di Caserta, the nineteenth-century

historical residence of the royal house of Bourbon (now in-

cluded on the UNESCO heritage list), surrounded by a large

park divided into an Italian garden, with its many fountains

among which the famous Grande Cascata, and an English gar-

den with thick woods and a less regular appearance. Called

“the last Baroque building in Italy”, it is home to the Appar-

tamenti Vecchi (Old Apartments), the Appartamenti Nuovi

(New Apartments), all furnished with original furniture, and

the precious Quadreria.

Going down the coast south of Naples, the area around Saler-

no is an authentic place of beautiful landscapes (from Cilen-

to to Vallo di Diano), tasty food and wine tours, yet unique

archaeological sites (Paestum, for example) and the famous

Costiera Amalfitana, a stretch of coast, also known as “Divi-

na Costiera” (Divine Coast), a popular area for international

beach tourism. Also the Costiera, with Amalfi, Atrani, Cetara,

Conca de Marini, Furore, Maiori, Minori, Positano, Praiano,

Ravello, Scala, Tramonti and Vietri sul Mare belongs to the

UNESCO World Heritage Sites: you can not miss the stair-

case of the spectacular Amalfi Cathedral, a walk through the

colourful streets and clothes shops of Positano with the new

Auditorium designed in 2012 by the late Brazilian architect

Oscar Niemeyer.

In the shadow of Vesuvius,

a past and present

on the seashore

Opposite page: Castel dell’Ovo and the small harbour

of Santa Lucia, in Naples. This page, clockwise from the left:

Vesuvius; a bay along the Amalfi Coast; a street in Pompeii.

72

«

Above: Piazza del Plebiscito with the church of San Francesco di Paola.

Naples, a concentration of

culture, sea and energy

Province: Naples

Altitude: 17 m asl

Inhabitants: 957 012

Tourist information

Azienda Autonoma di Soggiorno, Cura e Turismo

Via San Carlo, 9 - Tel. +39 081 402394

Piazza del Gesù - Tel. +39 081 5512701 - www.inaples.it

Capital of the Bourbon Kingdom, one of the largest historical

centres among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, home of

the pizza: Naples is not only a metropolis, but also one of the

centres with the highest density of monuments in Italy and

one of the largest reserves of popular traditions.

To discover it you can follow the historical trail, moving

around the town in the footsteps of the Greeks and Romans

(the Greek walls of Piazza Cavour, the ancient theatre on via

dell’Anticaglia, just off the bustling Via Duomo, the “Palazzo di

Nerone” decorated with the application of Roman remains, the

paleochristian basilica and baptistery of Santa Restituta, now

incorporated into the Cathedral, the Greek agorà and then the

Roman forum of Neapolis in Piazza San Gaetano, the excava-

tions under San Lorenzo Maggiore, the Greek walls in Piazza

Bellini that ended in the current Piazza San Domenico, domi-

nated by the central spire, and in piazza Trianon) or following

the traces of the Middle Ages (from 1266, Charles I of Anjou

made Naples the capital of his kingdom, bringing to the city

the artistic infl uences of French Gothic, as in the chapel of San

Gennaro, or the spire of Santa Maria Maggiore) or following

the ideals of the Renaissance or still discovering the signs of

the Baroque and Rococò (Spanish rule in Naples gave it its

current face, like the silver statues of the Treasure of San Genn-

aro in the Cathedral, the exuberant character of the Neapoli-

tan Baroque, while the anti-Baroque Austrian rule brought the

“gooseneck” stairs, large tiled fl oors and nativity shepherds, of

marked rococo style).

Anyone who loves the past and literature can go up the hill

that separates Mergellina from Fuorigrotta, next to the ancient

tuff caves: here visitors can admire the tomb of Virgil, en-

riched with Roman inscriptions dated 1930, and the tomb of the poet Giacomo Leopardi, who died in Naples in 1837.

Or you can experience Naples as a tourist, to marvel at the

most famous places: Piazza del Plebiscito, Palazzo Reale,

A typical Neapolitan dessert

for the Easter period, but now available all year round, the

pastiera is a cake of crispy shortcrust pastry stuffed with soft

ricotta, candied fruit, sugar, eggs and wheat boiled in milk.

The smell and flavour change depending on the spices and

aromas: the classics are cinnamon, orange peel and vanilla.

According to the legend, the siren Partenope was exceptional

at cooking this delicacy and perhaps has its origins in pagan

offerings: the priestesses of Ceres, in particular, carried eggs

in procession, a symbol of birth.

Neapolitan tradition at the table

Castel dell’Ovo and the Maschio Angioino, the Teatro San Carlo, the Cathedral with the relics of San Gennaro and the

Cloister of Santa Chiara.

Some people like to “live” Naples and exploring the neighbour-

hoods is the best way to get into the everyday life of the city:

Spaccanapoli, via San Gregorio Armeno (with the work-

shops of traditional nativity scenes open all year round), the

promenade of via Caracciolo.

Finally, just a few kilometres out of the city you can reach the

gardens and the Reggia di Capodimonte, with the homon-

ymous National Gallery and the eighteenth-century “Royal

Porcelain Factory” which produced the famous ceramics prized

pieces branded with the Bourbon lily.

73

Above: the famous Piazzetta in Capri. Below from left to right: a spa pool

in Ischia and, in the background, the Castle of Ischia.

Islands of beauty and wellbeing

stances. Depending on their composition, they are a healing

remedy for many diseases. Mineral baths and spas, ozone ther-

apy, showers, mud treatments, turkish baths and underwater

massages are also available for those who want a holiday in

which to “disconnect” and laze in front of landscapes with an

incredible variety of blue tones. The climate and the extraordi-

nary variety of the island’s vegetation complement the health

benefits by helping the body and mind to regenerate.

The thermal waters of Ischia have been known since ancient

times and are mentioned by Homer in the Iliad, the Aeneid by

Virgil and many famous ancients such as Pliny and Strabo: in

fact, in the imperial age the baths became a habitual place to

visit by the Roman society and it was at that time that the is-

land’s many natural sources were exploited to create the first

public spas. The rest is history: 69 Fumarole groups and 29

thermal spring groups, more than 55 hotels with an internal

spa centre, 7 thermal parks with swimming pools at different

temperatures and exotic vegetation, 6 island municipalities

offering services and facilities, and four free natural springs.

There really is something for every taste!

To complete the tour of beauty, all that’s missing is the visit to

the island of Procida, also of volcanic nature, less “organized”

than the others, but more geared towards direct contact be-

tween man and vegetation. In a context of modern accommo-

dation facilities, but always in compliance with the winning

combination of culture and nature.

The island of Capri is an essential stage for summer holidays

in Campania. The jewel of the Gulf of Naples, in fact, has

a unique beauty that has inspired and continues to inspire

artists, film directors and poets: the deep green of the lush

natural surroundings envelops the steep cliffs overlooking

the crystal clear sea, flowing into beautiful caves, dominated

by mighty cliffs and coloured by olive, orange and lemon tree

groves. Among the caves, the Grotta Azzurra is undoubtedly

best known for the different colours taken by its walls and

its water during the day. La Piazzetta is the ultimate in so-

phistication.

If you want to add an element of relaxation and well-being

to a beach vacation, you just have to move from Capri to

Ischia, a large island with wide sandy beaches that leave

space for isolated cliffs and lesser known beaches, accessible

only by sea. Its volcanic nature makes Ischia one of the larg-

est spa centres in Europe: there are springs, fumaroles and

mud throughout the territory, such that almost every accom-

modation structure has at least one thermal pool. The island

also offers equipped and skilled centres, centres of scientific

research on the benefits of thermal waters and sophisticated

technology for any type of therapy.

Ischia’s thermal waters are alkaline, containing sulphur, iodine,

chlorine, iron, potassium and trace elements of active sub-

74

Puglia

APULIA

A sea with bright colours in an

incredible variety of shades, a

sea that marks a boundary. Two

extremely different seas meet at the

heel of Italy: the Adriatic Sea is sandy, shallow and

light blue while the Ionian Sea is rocky, with deep

seabed and an intense shade of blue. Some people

say that in Santa Maria di Leuca they have seen

the clear dividing line between the two seas. What

is certain is that the view over the two different

basins is breathtaking: the prickly pears add a

splash of green and orange to the rocks washed

by the sea; the wind causes the waves to break on

the rocks and leaves the sand perfectly smooth;

the region offers a unique combination of unspoilt

beach es and a lively nightlife. Welcome to Apulia!

One land, two seas, a thousand

splendours

Apulia is the easternmost region of Italy and, with about 800

kilometres of coastline, it is the region with the longest coast: the

shores of Apulia alternate between rocky stretches of coast (such

as the Gargano), cliffs and long stretches of sandy beaches (such

as in Salento, the Gulf of Taranto and the Bari area). More than

98% of the coast is suitable for swimming and the crystal clear

waters have led it to be known  as the “Maldive islands of Italy”.

Inland Apulia offers endless rugged landscapes with fascinating

colours: the Tavoliere delle Puglie, which has a surface area

of 3,000 square kilometres, is the second largest plain in Italian

after the Padanian plain, the Murge, a limestone plateau that

lies between the Tavoliere and Salento, the Valley of Itria, with

the highest concentration of trulli (the traditional round stone

houses with conical roofs). Lastly, there are the islands, tiny

paradises of unspoilt nature and clear blue water.

In summer Apulia is a byword for “seaside holidays” with all

the various differences in landscape and a wide range of tourist

accommodation and facilities. The Tremiti Islands (San Domino, San Nicola and Capraia, as well as the uninhabited island of

Pianosa and the islet of Cretaccio) have an indented coastline full

of caves and are protected as a marine nature reserve. The largest

island is San Domino, the heart of tourism in the Archipelago,

which includes Cala delle Arene, the only sandy beach. San

Nicola has an atmosphere coloured by history and antiquity with

Neolithic sites, Greek tombs, the abbey of Santa Maria a Mare

(don’t miss the mosaic floor and the walls) and the fortifications

built during its transformation into a penal colony.

Not far away, the marvellous spur of the Gargano with the

picturesque towns and villages of Mattinata, Peschici, Rodi Garganico, Manfredonia and Vieste. Peschici is characterised by

the traditional trabucchi, structures made of wooden poles which are

intertwined with ropes and pulleys and used for fishing: by lowering

a large sack-like net into the sea, the operators of these structures

(trabucchisti) activate a mechanism and imprison shoals of fish. The

trabucchi can also be seen at Vieste, but the town is dominated by

Pizzomunno, a monolith of about 25 metres linked to the legend of a

tall strong young man in love with the beautiful Cristalda: each day

he would venture out to sea harassed in vain by the Sirens who, out

of jealousy, took the young girl to the seabed. The following day, the

fishermen found that he had turned to stone as a result of his grief

and transformed into the rock that bears his name.

The landscape of Salento is completely different and alternates

between long golden sandy beaches and imposing cliffs with

sheer drops down to the sea. Overlooking two seas, Salento is an

amazing tourist destination that boasts authentic features; these

range from glamorous lidos, where holiday-makers can enjoy

aperitifs on deck-chairs in the sea at sunset or dance all night

on the seashore, to large protected pine forests with emblematic

names such as Porto Selvaggio. The entire coastline is dominated

by fifteenth century watchtowers which survey the sea: there are

12 in the province of Brindisi, 17 in the province of Taranto and

as many as 57 in the province of Lecce. The inland areas close

to the coast are dotted with large farmhouse complexes which

used to be fortified and are now used as holiday farmhouses and

high quality tourist accommodation. The architectural landscape

overlooking the sea resembles Greece due to the predominance

of white flat-roofed houses with terraces, while the towns and

cities bear the clear imprint of the Baroque style of Lecce. The

true maritime capitals are Gallipoli, on the Ionian Sea, and

Otranto, on the Adriatic. The undisputed capital in terms of

historical monuments and art is Lecce.

Opposite page: the beach of Mattinata. Above from left to right:

the trulli of Alberobello; an expanse of vineyards near Mattinata;

the ramparts of Otranto. Below: the coast of Vieste.

Sun, sea and wind

««

Lecce the cultural capital of the Baroque

Province: Lecce

Altitude: 49 m asl

Inhabitants: 96,274

Tourist information:

Informazioni Accoglienza Turistica Lecce

via Vittorio Emanuele, 24

Tel. +39 0832 248092

www.viaggiareinpuglia.it

heart of the city, together with the “fashionable meeting place” of

Piazza Sant’Oronzo, is piazza del Duomo. The square is wide,

spacious, clean and enhanced by the elegance and sophistication

of the false baroque façade of the gleaming white cathedral,

situated next to the elaborate bell tower recently restored to its

original splendour thanks to careful restoration work. The original

façade, the entrance to the cathedral, is situated on a side of the

building that is less visible.

The most extraordinary landmark of the city is the Church of Santa Croce, with its incredible façade dominated by a rose

window and the meticulous formal decoration which illustrates

how the Lecce Baroque manages to lighten the seventeenth

century style and make it less ostentatious. The same impression

continues inside the building where the altars are laden with

elegantly carved fl owers, fruit and characters, supported by

spiral columns, but sensitively accompanied by exquisite

workmanship and colouring.

Before entering one of the traditional restaurants or one of

the many fashionable pubs (easily recognisable from the

crowd of young people thronging the streets of the historic

centre), it is worth walking round the city. Follow the city

walls and admire the gateways which were named after their

orientation or role: Porta Napoli, or “Triumphal Arch”, built in

1548 in honour of Charles V to thank him for the fortifi cations

defending the city; Porta Rudiae, which takes its name from

the ancient Messapian city whose fi rst centre was situated in

this area; Porta San Biagio, built on the ruins of an ancient

tower and protected by the statue of the saint from which the

gate takes its name. After completing the tour, the next step is

to explore Lecce’s local products: besides the workshops that

make prestigious objects from the local sandstone, the city is

also renowned for its papier mâché workshops, a traditional

craft of Lecce which leads to quite extraordinary creations; in

this case too, artisans fashion unique objects of all kinds and

sizes, with both sacred themes (the Virgin Mary or the Nativity)

and secular themes (trades and traditional fi gures). A fi tting

conclusion to this brief tour of the city, which is best explored

without a street map but by getting lost in the stone-paved

streets of the historic centre, is the discovery of local culinary

specialities: an excellent local pastry called pasticciotto provides

a sweet conclusion to the trip. Made from baked shortcrust

pastry fi lled with confectioner’s custard: this is another way to

fall in love with the city!

Lecce lies in the heart of the Salento, the ancient prehistoric city

of the Messapians, later a civis romana and then an important

city during each subsequent period until the full baroque period

whose splendour is still evident. The city is highly stratifi ed into

historical periods which all have one common element: the use

of the local sandstone (pietra leccese) which was widely available

locally, easy to work and beautiful to behold. Dominated by the

29 metre high statue of the patron saint Orontius (Sant’Oronzo),

the main square is highly distinctive by virtue of the ruins of the

Roman Amphiteatre which was brought to light and enhanced

so that it now hosts numerous dance and theatre festivals. The

Above: the rose window of the church of Santa Croce. Below: the Cathedral.

77

Village fairs and festivals with the rhythm of the pizzica

commemorates the expulsion of the Saracens and the accession of

the Angevins. On the 26th August, each year, a special event is held

in the bright white town of Ostuni to celebrate the patron saint

Orontius. The celebrations involve the “Cavalcata”, a procession

of horses and riders dressed up in red. The festival of St Oronzo

is the most important festival held in the area; all the towns and

villages in the area celebrate the patron saint in their own way, as

in Turi. Here the saint’s martyrdom is recalled beginning with a

procession from the cave where, according to legend, the bishop

celebrated mass. The main feature of the procession is the gigantic

triumphal chariot pulled by six mules.

The list of religious and secular celebrations, featuring folklore,

traditional foods and lively music, is endless. Each town and village in

Apulia offers events of this kind: visitors just need to discover them to

enliven the evenings of a “seaside” holiday with a touch of tradition!

Of all the local events, the most famous is the Notte della Taranta (Night of Tarantula), which draws tens of thousands

of fans of the pizzica to Melpignano in August (120,000 visitors

in 2012). It is the wonderful final evening of a travelling festival

which involves numerous towns in the region throughout the

summer with its music.

People dance the pizzica, a traditional dance with ancient origins

(records of it go back to the fourteenth century) which is typical

of Salento, but also of the area of Matera in Basilicata, the Cilento

in Campania and certain areas of Sicily. The dance belongs to the

family of the tarantelle, linked to the curative practices of tarantism

but essentially a joyful dance to be performed during celebrations

and convivial moments. Traditional accompaniments are the

handkerchief or the shawl, essential accessories in the clothing

of the past, which were waved during dances to invite the chosen

partner: they were therefore not meant to be a token of love but

were simply a way of enlivening the dance.

Food festivals also multiply in summer almost as fast as the incessant

rhythm of the pizzica: they range from the Sagra della Pittula (held

in many local towns and villages), devoted to savoury or sweet fried

balls of dough to the Sagra te la Carne alla Turca (Festival of Meat in

the Turkish Style), held in Surano in early August, a celebration of

the traditional dish of oriental origin – extremely spicy pork – and the

“Nettare dei pizzicati”, a liqueur made from “murtheddrha” (myrtle

berries) from the hills of Salento, known as “Serre salentine”. Other

festivals include the Sagra ti lu purpu (Octopus festival), Sagra te la purpetta (Meatball festival) and the much more recently established

festival called Birra&Sound, held in Leverano. The pizzica also has a

more “warlike” version which is extremely fascinating: the Danza delle Spade (The Dance of the Swords). In Torrepaduli, on the mid-

August holiday, a dance is performed to the insistent rhythm of

the tambourine by pairs of male dancers who simulate a duel by

dancing and challenging each other with their arms.

In July, in Taranto, the famous Palio comes to an end. This palio

is an event performed in period costume with the two races of

rowing boats linked to their respective city districts. Another event

in which the protagonists wear period costume is held in Oria,

in the second week of August, to commemorate the arrival of

Federick II of Swabia in 1225: after the medieval procession, the

races between the four districts are held. On the third Saturday in

June, in Fasano, “La Scamiciata” is staged. It features a historical

commemoration of the victory over the Turks in 1678 beneath

the city walls while another festival held in Lucera in August

The “black souls” of ApuliaPrimitivo di Manduria Doc and Negramaro: these dark red wines

are the “black souls” of Apulia. The first wine takes its name from

the fact that the Primitivo grapes ripen very early. It was originally

made in the Ionian-Salentine coastal regions, although it later spre-

ad to the Murge and the areas of Taranto and Bari. The Primitivo

grape was first cultivated intensively by Benedictine monks in the

twelfth century in the area of Gioia del Colle; throughout Apulia,

Primitivo is made in many different versions: table wine, amabile

(sweet), and in two liqueur-like versions, one dryer and one sweeter

(liquoroso secco and liquoroso dolce). Negramaro is a very different

red wine, grown almost exclusively in

Salento. The origin of the name is linked

simply to the repetition of the word nero

(black) in two languages: niger (in Latin)

and mavros (in ancient Greek). It is par-

ticularly well-suited to making rosé wi-

nes and, as a consequence, the most wi-

despread DOC wine is Salice Salentino.

Above: a moment during the Night of Tarantula.

78

CalabriaWhoever chooses Calabria for their

holidays does so for its 800 kilometres

of beaches. A fortunate choice,

considering how variegated these

coastlines are, from lively, well organized bathing

establishments to remote beaches immersed in wild

natural surroundings. Even the morphology of the

coastline lends itself to those seeking variety, with

fi ne sandy beaches and rocky stretches at just a

short distance from each other. The inland areas,

on the other hand, offer marvellous mountainous

landscapes and trekking itineraries that follow in the

footsteps of the Sila brigands and fauna, wolves fi rst

and foremost. And what about the local cuisine,

which adds colour and fl avour to every landscape,

together with history and archaeology, giving the

toe of the Italian boot the aura of a glorious past.

The toe of the bootCALABRIA

79

Washed by the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west and the Ionian Sea

to the east, Calabria opens up on its north-eastern side to the

Gulf of Taranto and is delimited towards the south-west by the

Straits of Messina, which separate Punta Pezzo from the Si-

cilian coast by just 3.2 km. In the course of history, the Straits

of Messina themselves have actually inspired the myths and

legends that confer charm to the magical scenario of these lo-

cations: the fi rst stories date back to Homer who tells of Ulys-

ses challenging the two terrifying monsters, Scylla and Cha-rybdis, standing respectively on the Calabrian and Sicilian

shores. Not surprising really, if we consider that the turbulent

currents of the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas meet and collide at

the exact point where the straits are narrowest, to create sud-

den and unexpected whirlpools, which were certainly treache-

rous for the seafarers of ancient times. There is no doubt that

the seabeds of the Straits represent an authentic paradise for

scuba divers: the submerged mountains of Scilla are in fact car-

peted with expanses of yellow-red and orange Gorgonian sea

fans; the depths around Reggio and Capo d’Armi, on the other

hand, are sandier but inhabited by a unique marine fauna.

A phenomenon still visible in the Straits is that of the Mor-gana Fairy which, in certain weather conditions, makes the

shadows and refl ections of Messina’s houses and lights stretch

over the water to join those of Reggio Calabria, creating the

sensation of being able to see one single immense city. Legend

has it that, during the Barbarian invasions, in August, a bar-

barian king arrived in Reggio Calabria and, wondering how to

reach Sicily, was tricked by the Morgana Fairy who made the

island appear a few steps away from the king. Under the illu-

sion that he could reach it by swimming a few strokes, he was

drowned and perished in the sea.

The nearby Capo Vaticano, with its magical headland looking

out over the Tyrrhenian Sea, owes its name to the Latin word

Vaticinium, meaning “oracle”, since legend has it that its extre-

me tip is inhabited by the prophetess Manto. Sailors would vi-

sit her before venturing out into the whirlpools of Scylla and

Charybdis, and Ulysses himself, once he had escaped the trea-

cherous rocks, consulted Manto as to the favourable outcome

of the journey ahead. Beaches of fi ne white sand, washed by

crystal-clear water, extend under the headland. One of the most

charming beaches is that of Torre Ruffa, where Donna Canfora,

kidnapped by Saracens, threw herself into the sea crying: “The

women of this land prefer death to dishonour!” To honour her

sacrifi ce, the sea changes colour every hour to recall the shades

of the veil the woman wore while the echo of the breaking wa-

ves would be nothing but the tormenting lament with which

Donna Canfora greets her beloved land every night.

Last but not least, there is Sibari, a legendary Greek colony

which was renowned for the luxurious and dissolute ways of

its inhabitants. All that remains of its splendour are the fan-

tastic tales of an inaccessible and dissipated lifestyle, as well

as a few ruins of the old city: the remains of houses in the

area known as Parco del Cavallo and a sanctuary dedicated to

Athena close to the station, where the Archaeological Museum of the area of Sibari also stands. And this account could go on to

include many more locations, because every corner of Calabria

conceals an extraordinary myth.

Midst ancient mythology

and legends

Opposite page: the coast of Scilla at

sunset. Above from the left: a craftsman at

work; a view of Palizzi; ruins of the Greek

theatre of Sibari (ancient Sybaris);

the beach of Capo Vaticano.

The unchallenged king of Calabria’s cuisine is the hot chil-

li pepper. Belonging to the same family as the sweet pepper

(Capsicum – Solanacee), its Latin name derives from the

form of the fruit, which recalls a “capsule”, or box, safeguar-

ding the seeds. Some believe that its name comes from the

Greek word kapto, meaning to bite, an obvious allusion to the

piquant taste it leaves on the tongue when eaten. In actual fact,

it can be eaten in all sorts of ways, and this is particularly true

in Calabria: cooked or raw, it fi nds its way into any type of

sauce, meat or salami specialities, such as the famous ‘nduja

(a salami mixture whose bright red-orange colour depends on

the great quantity of hot pep-

per it contains) or spianata

(a type of hard sausage meat

of the same bright colour).

His majesty the hot chilli pepper

80

«Province: Reggio CalabriaAltitude: 31 m aslInhabitants: 186,503Tourist information:

Tourist BureauVia Fata Morgana, 13

Tel. +39 0965 324822

http://turismo.reggiocal.it

Reggio Calabria The city that was built twice

dal wave. Consequently, the extremely elongated Real Palazzina

(Royal Palace) was rebuilt with its endless series of elegant Na-

poleonic buildings looking onto the seafront, together with the

impressive St. George’s Palace (the town hall), the elegant Villa

Genoese-Zerbi which is the most prestigious example of seven-

teenth century Baroque in this city, many churches and basilicas,

including the lavishly decorated Baroque Cathedral (the largest

religious construction in the region), the most ancient Byzantine

basilica of the Catholic church of eastern rite, the monumental

fountains on the seafront and a great number of impressive pu-

blic and private buildings. Gabriele D’Annunzio described the

town’s seafront as “the fi nest kilometre in Italy”: it is actually

much longer than one kilometre, since it occupies the coastal

area comprised between the port and the Maritime Fort and is

often referred to as “via Marina”. Here the numerous Art Nou-

veau buildings contribute to the elegance of this promenade,

embellished by stretches of Greek city walls and a Roman spa

complex, as well as monumental fountains and memorials. If

you stand right here and look towards Sicily, you might just ex-

perience the mirage of the Morgana Fairy.

The Riace Bronze Warriors are the indisputable symbol of

this city: the two Greek statues were accidentally discovered

on 16 August 1972 in the water of Riace Marina, at approxi-

mately 300 metres from the coast at a depth of about 8 metres,

together with fragments of an ancient vessel dating back to

the Roman-Byzantine age; having undergone various restora-

tive operations, they are housed temporarily at Palazzo Cam-

panella, the Regional administrative headquarters, where they

have been transferred because of renovation work in course at

the National Museum of Magna Graecia in Reggio Calabria,

which is their permanent exhibition seat.

This museum, which boasts exhibits such as the famous Phi-

losopher’s Head and the Dioscuri group of statues, is just one

of many reasons for visiting Reggio Calabria. Another is the

impressive and majestic Aragonese Castle, probably erected

in the VI century on a pre-existing fortifi cation, whose history

refl ects that of this city: when in 1039, Reggio fell under the

dominion of the Normans, led by Robert Guiscard, the castle

was extended to include a donjon, the fortress tower leaning

against the walls which housed the troops entrusted with the

city’s defence; the rest of the building, however, dates back to

the Suevian period: an impressive construction with a square

layout and four square-shaped angular towers. It was resto-

red several times during the Aragonese and Angevin wars, in

a style that earned it the attribute of “Aragonese”, with the ad-

dition of a ravelin, until the eighteenth century when Charles

III of Bourbon ordered its conversion into barracks. The history

of the castle goes hand in hand with that of the city, its various

dominions and its development.

However, two catastrophic events have led Reggio to being

almost totally rebuilt: the 1783 earthquake and the catastro-

phic quake of Messina and Reggio, which razed the city to the

ground in 1908 and destroyed the coastal areas with a terrible ti-

This page: two views of the seafront of Reggio Calabria overlooking the Straits of Messina.

81

The sea beloved by the gods

The coasts of Calabria have fascinating names, associated with

their distinctive vegetation or the history that has passed throu-

gh and transformed them in the course of time. In this respect

a particularly significant name is the Costa degli Dei (Coast of

the Gods) or “Costa Bella” around Vibo Valentia. Beautiful, wi-

thout a doubt, with its fascinating views, the little white coves

that may only be reached by boat or on foot, the Aeolian Islan-

ds and the volcanic island of Stromboli, all of which are just a

short distance away. “Of the gods” because, with its transparent

water and luscious seabeds, it evokes dreamlike landscapes and

paradisiacal dives. Certainly not to be missed is Tropea, one of

the most popular locations in Calabria for national and interna-

tional tourists, offering as many as twelve churches and a blue

grotto, a summer bluefish festival and plaited red onions han-

ging from its windows (the red onion of Tropea, of unmistaka-

ble sweetness, has been awarded with a quality trademark). The

charming beaches and crystal clear sea, whose depths teem with

fish, make Capo Vaticano another mandatory stop, along with

the fascinating inland area offering typical specialities such as

the “Nduja di Spilinga” and “Pecorino del Poro”. Then comes Pizzo Calabro, a seaside resort and fishing port perched high above

the sea which owes its fame to the Castle of Joachim Murat,

the husband of Caroline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s sister, who was

tricked into coming to Calabria and shot without a blindfold.

The home-made ice-creams of Pizzo are well known in the area.

And how can you miss a visit to Parghelia, with its Pizzuta, so

called because of the granitic pinnacles emerging from the sea,

or Zambrone, with beaches that recall those of the Tropics and

the Scoglio della Galea (Galea Rock), abounding in cavities

and hollows inhabited by marine fauna of all types.

Looking onto the Ionian sea, the Costa dei Saraceni (Sara-

cens’ Coast) presents a completely different scenario with its

wild landscape and eventful history. It extends between Cariati

and the hills of the Marquisate of Crotone, with a variegated

morphology of alternating wide and narrow gulfs. There are

some extremely vast areas close to the shore, which present lush

Mediterranean vegetation and pinewoods, where new tourist

accommodation facilities of considerable dimensions and ele-

vated standards have found an ideal setting without modifying

the general aspect of the area. The entire zone is comprised in

the Marine Reserve of Capo Rizzuto, 40 hectares of Mediterrane-

an maquis with a strictly regulated system to safeguard the sea

depths and the numerous species living there. Moreover, the en-

tire coast is a haven of Greek, medieval and Byzantine archaeo-

logical remains. For instance, Cirò Marina’s origins, the ancient

town of Krimisa, are Greek. Now it is one of the main seaside

resorts on the Ionian coast of Calabria.

The bathing area of the Municipality of Crotone extends to the

south of the port as far as the headland of Capo Colonna, an

archaeological site of great interest, symbolized by the solita-

ry column rising up over the sea and which gives its name to

the promontory. Capo Colonna, Capo Cimiti, Capo Rizzuto and

Punta Le Castella are the most popular tourist spots on the Sa-

racens’ Coast.

Now it is up to you to explore these coasts steeped in history, or

others that take the names of Riviera dei Cedri (Riviera of ci-

tron trees) and Costa Viola (Violet Coast), on the Tyrrhenian co-

ast, and Riviera degli Aranci (Riviera of Oranges), Costa degli Aranci (Coast of Oranges) and Costa dei Gelsomini (Jasmine

Coast), on the Ionian coast. Coastlines in which sea, beaches and

vegetation combine to create a truly divine landscape.

Above from left to right: the face of one of the Riace Bronze Warriors; a bay in the marine nature reserve of Capo Rizzuto. Below: the beach of Tropea.

82

SiciliaThe island on which the sun shines

SICILY

The largest island in the

Mediterranean, the cradle of history,

which holds some of the best preserved

archaeological sites in the world and

six UNESCO World Heritage sites. A destination

for lovers of the sea and culture, Sicily, with the

archipelago of small islands that fl ank it, is a world

to discover. The ancient Trinacria, land of Greek

colonization, of Roman Empire, through the Islamic

and Norman eras and the Angevin, Aragonese and

Bourbon rules, shows all these traces in its beautiful

scenery: because Sicily is a land of culture, but it

is also a land of sun, beaches, sea, volcanoes and

environments that always leave you speechless.

83

You have to go to Sicily to see most of the active Italian vol-

canoes, the highest of which is Mount Etna with its 3330 m.

In addition to the volcano that dominates Catania, there’s a

whole arc of volcanic islands still in full activity: these are the

Aeolian Islands, also known as “Lipari”, places not only for

tourism, but also of great geological interest.

Lipari, the largest of the archipelago, is the emerged portion

of a large volcanic structure with a height of approximately

1500 m that starts at just under 1000 m below sea level. The

oldest rocks of the island are more than 200,000 years old and

between them open fumaroles and hot springs with water

temperatures up to 90 ° C, a tangible sign of the vitality which

still stands below them. Just by walking along the paths of the

island you can see many outcrops that are nothing more than

the solidification of the eruptive material: transparent depo-

sits, with alternating light and dark bands, often with glassy

obsidian lava.

Instead, it is Vulcano that is the island with the most sugge-

stive name. The spur is composed of several volcanic systems:

in addition to the upper crater with fumaroles that are still

active, at the ends of the island there are platforms like Vul-

canello, whose lava has a different composition from that of

Vulcano due to the different depths of the magma. The visi-

tors who climb (there are guided tours, which are fully safe)

to the crater can enjoy a breathtaking view across the area of

the fumaroles which gives you a good understanding of how

the ancients could believe, without scientific explanation, that

in the bowels of the earth there was a forge for metalworking,

presided over by the god Hephaestus or Vulcan, who had an

short-temper. On the summit of Vulcano, tourists can admire

the marvellous Realgar crystals (red, with copper and arsenic),

white crystals of boron and the sulphur yellow ones. Then the-

re is the wonderful Stromboli, the last to emerge among the

Aeolian Islands (preceded by Strombolicchio, a small volcano

which is now only a rock in the sea), which is active, more or

less continuously, for at least 2000 years. An entirely specific

activity, which is called “Strombolian” and which consists of

almost continuous explosions with little waste being launched

from the eruptive vents: This is a unique show, with the five

mouths always active, and can be observed on walking excur-

sions day and night. Finally in Salina, from the small fishing

port of Rinella, located between twin volcanos, you can admi-

re the Monte Fossa delle Felci, the largest volcano which has

been inactive for more than 13,000 years, the only one with a

forest. The other islands of the Aeolian archipelago - Alicudi,

Filicudi, Panarea and Basiluzzo - also have volcanic origins:

this can be seen from the dark colour of the rocks overlooking

the sea, with a few coves accessible only by boat. An unconta-

minated spectacle.

Returning to the main island, and dominating the whole of

Sicily is Mount Etna, a volcanic structure that is grandiose in

size and in history, when you consider that its eruptive activity

began 500,000 years ago with the first submarine eruptions.

The coasts of Catania are a testimony of this activity: they are

characterized by the famous pillow lavas, so called because of

the concentric layers rounded by water and glazed, then wel-

ded together to form the famous lava floors such as the port

of Aci Castello, mentioned by Verga’s I Malavoglia. From about

100,000 years ago to now, the eruptive activity has moved: first

along the Ionian coast (with the occasional fissure eruption up

to the coast in the area called “delle Gole dell’Alcantara”), to-

day on the volcano called Ellittico, which constitutes the main

structure of Mount Etna. The ability to climb this active giant is

definitely a unique opportunity that close up shows the beauty

of untamed nature.

Where volcanoes reign

Opposite page: the Greek theatre of Taormina. Above: aerial view of Stromboli.

On the right: view of Acireale. Below: Stacks of Acitrezza at dawn.

84

«

Agrigento The “most beautiful city of mortals”

A symbol of the city of Agrigento today is the temple of Ca-stor and Pollux, the Dioscuri: today four beautiful columns

can be seen. The best preserved temple is undoubtedly the

temple of Concordia, located on the Via Sacra, which takes its

name from a Latin inscription found nearby.

Agrigento, of course, is not just the Valley of the Temples.

It is in fact one of the most beautiful cities in Sicily, with a

historic centre that recalls the vicissitudes experienced by

the various rulers.

There are four main churches that embellish the streets and

squares: inside the Santo Spirito Abbey, a complex that was

built in 1260 and consists of the church and the adjacent Ci-

stercian monastery, visitors can admire an explosion of eighte-

enth-century stucco on the walls and a magnifi cent wooden

To say “Agrigento” is to say “Valley of the Temples”: here are

the remains of the ancient Akragas which was founded in the

sixth century BC by colonists from Gela and which, in just one

hundred years, became, in the words of the poet Pindar, “the

most beautiful city of mortals”. Destroyed by the Carthagi-

nians, refounded and fallen with the Byzantines, the ancient

city was abandoned in the ninth century after the Arab con-

quest, when on the hill Gergent was born. Passing to the Nor-

mans, the city began to grow until the eighteenth century, with

embellishments of every style and era. But the valley remained

there, between meadows and almond trees in fl ower, such as

can be found today.

The temple of Juno Lacinia certainly lent itself, thanks to its

spectacular location on a cliff at the top of the hill, to celebrate

the cult of the goddess of fertility. There are fascinating traces

of fi re, still visible on the walls of the cell, recalling the Cartha-

ginian destruction in 406 BC.

Next to the temple, tourists can admire the altar for the sa-

crifi ces and the road rutted by the wheels of the wagons. The

famous Telamoni, giant statues of human form, instead popu-

late the temple of Olympian Zeus, built as a token of thanks

during the fi rst victory in 480 BC of the people of Agrigen-

to against the Carthaginians. As can be seen, it would not be

enough to protect the city from destruction. In the vicinity of

the Porta Aurea, to commemorate the fallen of the Second Pu-

nic War, the tomb of Theron was built, an imposing pyramid-

shaped monument made from tufa stone.

The temple of Heracles is the oldest of them all and housed

the bronze statue of Heracles (or Hercules). Destroyed by an

earthquake, today there are only eight columns. Also little re-

mains of the imposing temple of Vulcan; it was certainly built

to replace a small archaic temple found under the foundation.

Province: Agrigento

Altitude: 230 m asl

Inhabitants: 59,130

Tourist information:

Azienda Autonoma Provinciale

per l’Incremento Turistico

viale Della Vittoria, 255

Tel. +39 0922 401352

www.lavalledeitempli.eu

85

remarkable and richly painted wooden ceiling in the centre of

which the two-headed eagle of Carlo V is represented. Of great

importance is the Treasury of the Cathedral, which preserves

the Sarcophagus of Phaedra, a third century Roman marble

work inspired by the greek style.

Last but not least, the Church of San Lorenzo, also called

“the church of Purgatory”: the elegant baroque prospect leads,

inside, to eight female statues of Giuseppe and Giacomo Ser-

potta, representing the Virtues. Next to the church is the main

entrance to the ancient tombs, a network of underground

aqueducts from the fifth century BC that supplied Akragas, de-

signed by the architect Feace and known throughout Magna

Graecia.

caisson ceiling dated 1758, on which the coat of arms of the

Chiaramonte family is painted, who financed its construction.

The monastery, also known as “the Great Abbey” has precious

frescoes and a great quadrangular cloister with a number of

Gothic portals.

The church of Santa Maria dei Greci, in the oldest district of

the city, was built in the twelfth century on the base of a Doric

temple from the fifth century BC that some believe to be that

of Athena, on the acropolis of the ancient Akragas, accessible

from the left aisle. The San Gerlando Cathedral, from the ele-

venth century, in Norman-Gothic style, remodelled until the

seventeenth century, with its unfinished tower from the fifte-

enth century, is a synthesis of the city’s historical stages: the

The Almond from Noto, which has received the recognition of

the Slow Food organisation, is undoubtedly one of the “magic”

ingredients of Sicilian cooking, especially sweets. The three

varieties of “cultivar” almonds are the Romana, the Fascionel-

lo and the Pizzuta d’Avola and grow in the Val di Noto, in the

province of Syracuse. With almond flour and sugar they pro-

duce the famous Martorana Fruit, originally from Palermo,

also known as “royal paste”, “almond paste” or “marzipan”.

The fruit shape is given through the use of plaster moulds,

while the colour is obtained from food pigments.

These pages, clockwise from the left: the Cathedral; a moment during the flowering almond tree; the Temple of Castor and Pollux in the Valley of the Temples; the Temple of Concord.

Sweet Sicily

86

Corners of paradise in the blue

Sicily and its islands make up a true work of art born from

the synergy between the action of nature, myth and the work

of man. But of course the natural setting is the one that most

unites these islands in a corner of paradise.

The small Egadi archipelago, in the sea off Trapani and Mar-

sala, consists of three larger islands (Favignana, Levanzo and

Marettimo) and the small island of Formica. Not far from the

Sicilian coast (just 20 minutes by hydrofoil), they offer visi-

tors a trip based on simplicity, serenity and the peace of the

Trapani countryside: there are hotels, bed and breakfasts and

apartments, as well as quiet camping.

The islands are very different from each other: Favignana can

be defined as “for all the family”, while Levanzo has a “mi-

nimalist” charm and is famous for the Grotta del Genovese,

with graffiti more than 10,000 years old; Finally, Marettimo

is recommended for tourists who love trekking and enjoying

nature surrounded by the sea.

The Aeolian archipelago, the “volcanic” charm, provides a good

choice for lovers of nautical tourism: Lipari has three ports,

one for small boats (Marina Corta), one for ferries and hydro-

foils (Marina Lunga) and one for fishing boats (Pignataro). The

Aeolian Islands are called “the sisters of Hawaii” for their be-

auty and since Neolithic times were colonized to exploit the

obsidian, a volcanic glass conformation perfect for making ar-

rowheads and cutting tools.

Still in the area of sea that is part of Trapani, Pantelleria is

famous for the opportunity to spend a relaxing holiday in the

fresh “dammusi”, natural caves which have been expanded to

obtain living spaces: created in the tenth century, they have

very thick walls, roof dome and it is the thickness of the wall

that isolates the inside of the dwelling in order to self-regulate

the temperature.

Pantelleria, so close to the coast of Sicily but also that of Africa

(only 37 km away), offers exceptional natural sites, such as the

87

Montagna Grande and the volcan Monte Gibele (whose past

eruptions date back 9000 years), and incredible archaeological

sites, such as the abandoned village of Mueggen, the Bagno

Asciutto Grotto, used in ancient times as a sauna, and the Pho-

enician catacombs of Monastero. Or the Sesi, large tombs built

with huge blocks of lava stone, beside the ruins of an ancient

prehistoric coastal village.

Regarding volcanic sights there are the fascinating “favare”,

emissions of water vapour, and the “stufe” (stove), natural caves

with steam at high temperatures. Conversely, in the Grotta del

Freddo (Cold Grotto) the escape of cold air is assisted. There

are, of course, hot springs, such as those at Specchio di Venere

Lake (Mirror of Venus), with saline mineral waters. Excursions

on horseback or by boat are on the agenda to allow tourists to

discover unusual corners, otherwise unreachable.

Likewise very close to Africa, the Pelagie consist of Lampedu-

sa, Linosa and Lampione, three small black islands also of vol-

canic origin. Lampedusa is the favourite destination of those

who conceive the beach holiday as a total experience: a barren

limestone plateau washed with crystal clear waters to form a

basic landscape, no frills, with tropical fauna (it is not difficult,

on the seabed, to find parrotfish and triggerfish).

Ustica, finally, is the most pristine of all the islands. Picture-

sque and colourful due to the murals on the houses of the fi-

shermen, it is located just over 60 km from the coast of Palermo

and is a very small emerged portion of a gigantic underwater

volcanic complex.

The real attraction of the island is its nature reserve with a rich

wildlife population just a few metres deep. Well worth a visit is

the Punta Spalmatore aquarium and the permanent naturali-

stic exhibition in Torre Spalmatore.

The beautiful seabed of the island can be admired even by tho-

se who do not dive thanks to a boat with large windows on the

bottom that allows you to explore the blue paradise populated

with bass, bream, sea bream and grouper. Ustica is therefore

nature in a free state, but there is also archaeology: the no-

table village of Faraglioni, fortified, with the remains of more

than two hundred houses. Archaeologists have also uncovered

a large Roman necropolis.

Opposite page: Roman ruins on the island of Lampedusa; below, Capo Milazzese

on the island of Panarea. This page, clockwise from the left: the rock of Strombolicchio;

the Elephant Arch on the island of Pantelleria; the small harbour of Levanzo.

88

SardegnaAlmost 2000 kilometres of coastline,

long beaches, coves, reefs and tourist

marinas: the Sardinian landscape

changes in form and colour with every

kilometre. And likewise, a Sardinian holiday may

vary from day to day: sunshine and sea, relaxation

and sport, scuba diving and trekking, leisure

boating and horse riding, cities and archaeological

sites. The seabeds of the island and its many minor

islets are a diver’s paradise; the strong frequent

winds allow for surfi ng, windsurfi ng, kite surfi ng

and sailing; the villages of the inland area are

ideal for cultural visits and the discovery of fi ne

food and wine specialities; folklore is a feature of

every corner of this region and the mountainous

areas lend themselves to trekking, free climbing,

caving and pot-holing activities, golf, mountain

cycling and horse riding. The choice is yours!

Mediterranean princess

SARDINIA

89

Nuraghi and giant stone masses are its symbol: Sardinia, with

its blue sea and uncontaminated inland areas, is deeply rooted

in ancient history and has a marked cultural identity, which is

typical of an insular territory. A unique example is certainly

represented by the “Giants” of Mount Prama, huge statues

sculpted in a way which, to all effects and purposes, recall the

Greek Kouroi, but with which there are no chronological or

cultural ties: a sign of how the Sardinian culture is one of a

kind and has no comparison with anything else in the Med-

iterranean basin. The “Giants”, exhibited at the Li Punti Res-

toration Centre (Sassari), were found in the area of Cabras,

on the slopes of Mount Prama, close to an ancient necropolis

dominated by a nuraghe. And now we come to the other great

protagonists of the island: the nuraghi, groups of megalithic

edifices of a truncated conical shape, dating back to the so-

called “nuragic” civilization which existed in the II millennium

B.C. solely and exclusively in Sardinia. Apparently there are

still about seven thousand of these constructions still standing

throughout the Island, even though it is thought that there

were originally many more, built very close to each other, as

in the Nuraghi Valley complex, the area of Logudoro Meilogu,

where there are about thirty nuraghi and about ten giants’

tombs, and where the so-called domus de janas, “fairy hous-

es”, are preserved, hypogean burial chambers excavated in the

rocks and dating back to the Neolithic age.

In its eventful past, Sardinia has witnessed the passing of the

Phoenicians and the Carthaginians, who

gave way to the Romans after the first

Punic War. Traces of this past may be ad-

mired in the extraordinary archaeologi-cal site of Nora, in Pula: the ancient city

is located on a headland separated from

the mainland by an isthmus that extends

at two points, Sa Punta and Su Coloru to

the west, Punta del Coltellazzo to the east,

facing the little island of the same name.

And now that we have described “ar-

chaeological Sardinia” a mention is due

to its “literature”: Sardinia has actually

been the birthplace of a great number of

writers, who have described its colours,

The charm of a unique history

Opposite page: view of Maddalena from the island of Caprera.

Above from left to right: the interior of a nuraghe (prehistoric round tower);

windsurfing off Cagliari; vegetation on Mount Albo. Below: sunset at Castelsardo.

its wild primitive atmosphere and life on the island as it really

is. A recommended literary itinerary has to include the places

described in the pages of Doves and Sparrow Hawks and Canes

swinging in the Wind, masterpieces by Grazia Deledda, the most

famous of Sardinian writers who won a Nobel in 1926: the itin-

erary starts in Orune, «It is an old and closed village, where the

usages, the habits, the customs, the most distant popular tra-

ditions persist, perhaps more than in any other place, together

with the intelligence and the value of a life which is just as ener-

getic as it is limited, full of expressive capacity, individual power

and solitude………», to say it with the words of Carlo Levi, but

above all a village that is worth visiting for its double attraction

of the early twentieth century Murgia building and the prehis-

toric menhir and dolmen of Isthiti; then we move on to Galtellì, where it is possible to visit the Sardinian writer’s home in one

of the most characteristic and best preserved old town centres

in Sardinia, with its St. Peter’s cathedral and the ancient land-

owner’s house Domo de Marras, now an Ethnographic Museum,

which has reconstructed typical scenes depicting the everyday

lives of agricultural workers and herdsmen.

Aspects of Sardinia, therefore, that go well beyond that of its

seaside attractions.

90

An island of timeless traditions

A holiday in Sardinia is certainly about plunging into the blue

sea and enjoying the peace and quiet of uncontaminated nature.

But it is also a journey packed with surprising experiences and

charm, a mysterious exploration into the spirit of a proud, crea-

tive and imaginative population.

Finding out about old traditional customs is always an inter-

esting experience: no other region in Italy can claim to having

so many, and which are so different from one place to another.

Each little community defends them proudly, to highlight the

cultural identity of each village. Clothing, in the past, used to

represent different occasions in life: so there are at least three

different ways of dressing – everyday, special occasions and

mourning dress – for all of the 370 municipalities on the island!

Only elderly people still wear these costumes regularly, espe-

cially in the villages of Desulo, Tonara and Orgosolo, in the area

of Nuoro, or in Busachi, close to Oristano, or in Cagliari on the

feast day of Saint Ephisius and in Sassari during the traditional

Cavalcade: a picturesque event offering spectators the experi-

ence of a return to the past.

It is interesting to try to understand the translation of some of

the various garments used: women’s costumes are made up

of a headdress, a camisa (blouse), the palas or cossu (bodice),

a corittu (jacket), the munedda (skirt) and the pannellu (apron);

men on the other hand wear cartzones (trousers), a ragas (a

short black skirt gathered in at the waist), the gabbanu (coat)

and the mastrucca (a sleeveless sheepskin jacket that is com-

monly used by herdsmen).

Whoever wishes to go more deeply into these particular aspects,

to fi nd out about the lives of the herdsmen of Barbagia, or listen

to and understand the typical folk songs, to learn more about

the origins of purceddu (suckling pig), casu marzu (typical cheese

with worms) and pane carasau (a crisp unleavened bread), can-

not miss out on a visit to one of the museums created to accom-

pany visitors on their journey into this unique cultural environ-

ment: in Cagliari, for example, it is possible to visit the Centre of Peasant Culture “Villa Muscas”, a museum housing a col-

lection of tools, agricultural machinery, typical artefacts of Sar-

dinian rural communities, as well as boasting a remarkable col-

lection of wines, with over 800 bottles of Sardinian production.

Then, at the Citadel of Museums, also in the regional capital,

91

the Cocco Ethnographical Collection is exhibited, with fabrics

woven on a horizontal loom, jewellery (the Sardinian wedding

rings engraved in gold or silver with french wire, microspheres

and tiny fretworked leaves) and furniture (especially wooden

chests, called kascia or arka if they are large, and kascitta or kas-

cioneddu if small).

Those who prefer to “experience traditions” directly, rather than

visit museums, cannot possibly miss the numerous folk festivals

animating the summer days, evenings and nights: in June Al-ghero comes to life with the rites of Fire, Water and Prediction

to celebrate the feast of Saint John the Baptist; the third Sun-

day in July in Villasimius offers an impacting experience with

its Feast of Our Lady of Castaways, with a procession of boats

paying homage to the Virgin’s statue on the sea bottom. July

ends in Gavoi with the lively traditional feast of Our Lady of

Sa Itria, where it is possible to take part in horse racing events

in honour of the Our Lady. Horses are also at the centre of at-

tention on the first Sunday in August during the Fonni Palio,

whose contestants not only represent Communes in Sardinia

but also those of Italy and elsewhere. On 14th August, the eve of

Assumption Day, the Candle Procession takes place in Nulvi, in which giant candles weighing over nine quintals each, are

carried through the streets, while in Guasila, on the 15th, the

Feast day of the Assumption, the game of s’acchixedda takes

place: the village bachelors, all on horseback, have to lasso a

heifer. Another interesting event is the Barefoot Race, on the

first Sunday of September in Cabras: it is a re-enactment of the

barefooted flight to save the Statue of Saint Salvatore who, in

times gone by, had fended off invaders.

And the list could go on forever: each village has its traditional

costumes, local specialities and folk festivals, all waiting to be

discovered, tasted and experienced.

Opposite page: above, a young man wearing traditional costume.

Below, a flock of sheep in Barbagia. This page, clockwise from the left:

the boat race of Is Fassonis in Santa Giusta; a girl during the festival

of Sant’Efisio in Cagliari; a lane in Galtellì.

92

Cagliari, An ancient capital waiting to be discovered

With a history stretching back thousands of years, Cagliari also

boasted the title of capital of the Kingdom of Sardinia from 1324

to 1720 and from 1798 to 1814. Facing the so-called Gulf of An-

gels, it extends around the historical city centre (called Castello)

and is built on seven different hills which now represent the var-

ious city quarters: Castello, Tuvu Mannu, Tuvixeddu, Monte Claro,

Monte Urpinu, Colle di Bonaria and Colle di San Michele. The city

has developed over a hilly area and a stretch of fl at land on which

the more recent quarters have developed from the twentieth cen-

tury onwards. With a wealth of monuments and places of interest,

the “old city” is encircled by the Bastion of Saint Rémy, built in

the late nineteenth century on the walls and aqueduct of the an-

cient Caralis, which was later transformed into a botanical garden,

with numerous species of plants growing among cisterns, wells

and quarries dating back to Roman times and used as air-raid

shelters during the second World War. Adopting a chronological

approach, our visit of the city starts out from the necropolises of Tuvixeddu (dating back to the Phoenician age) and of St. Paul (Roman) and from the burial tomb known as the Viper’s Grot-to, but also takes in the Roman Villa of Tigellius, the Temple of via Malta, the archaeological site of Saint Eulalie and the

Fullonica, the tanks used in Roman times for dyeing fabrics.

Myrtle liqueur, whether red or white, is a popular drink in

Sardinia and Corsica and is made by marinating myrtle

berries or a mixture of berries and leaves in alcohol. The

red version is prepared by marinating ripe pigmented ber-

ries. Its origins are extremely ancient even though the first

documents in which it is mentioned date back to the nine-

teenth century, when families used to make myrtle wine,

using a mixture of aqua vitae and water or wine and water

as a marinade. Once it has sufficiently marinated, sugar or

honey are added to sweeten. Sardinian myrtle liqueur has

digestive properties, so it is normally drunk at the end of a

meal but many people also enjoy it as an aperitif. Ideally,

it should be served ice cold.

The plant treasured

by Venus

93

««Province: Cagliari

Altitude: 23 m asl

Inhabitants: 155 887

Tourist information:

Ente Sardo Industrie Turistiche via Mameli, 97 - Tel. +39 070 664195

www.visit-cagliari.it

If we move on to the Middle Ages, you can not miss to visit

the impressive walls with their four towers of the Elephant, the

Buttress, Saint Pancras and the Eagle. Dating back to the same

period is the Cathedral of Santa Maria di Castello, dedicated

to the Virgin and to St. Cecilia Virgin and Martyr, built in the

Romanic style of Pisa, whose present aspect however reveals

the Baroque alterations and the neo-Romanic façade inspired

by the Cathedral of Pisa. The Royal Palace (or Viceroy’s Pal-

ace), the ancient residence of the King’s deputy, dates back to

the Aragonese period. Its fourteenth century features have been

completely modified by the restoration work of 1730 executed

by the Piedmont engineers De Guibert and De Vincenti: another

innovation of those years was the ceremonial staircase leading

to the master floor, the official residence of the Savoy royal fam-

ily and its court, exiled from Turin by Napoleon Bonaparte.

The churches of Saint Restituta and Saint Lucifer are inter-

esting to visit; standing in two different parts of the city, they

were both erected during the Middle Ages in areas of particular

significance to ancient populations: the first is erected on a vast

hypogean chamber which was used as a crypt by the Punic peo-

ple, Romans and early Christians; the church of Saint Lucifer

rises on an ancient paleo-Christian necropolis which had been

Opposite page: Cagliari cathedral. Above: the port of Marina Piccola at the foot of the promontory of Sella del Diavolo. Below: a part of the Ramparts of Saint Remy.

frequently explored for relics until a tombstone was found bear-

ing the inscription “Lucif Crus Arcepis” (hence its present name).

The great ferment of the Savoy period is reflected in the con-

struction of the Palazzo dell’Università (university building)

commissioned by King Charles Emanuel III to a project by one

of his military engineers: the concept consisted in creating a

vast cultural hub with the erection of a university building,

seminar and theatre (only the first two were built). In the hall

of the Rector’s office, visitors can stop and admire the four

symbolic bronze statues, Philosophy, Jurisprudence, Medicine

and Science and Technology (the latter is a work by Francesco

Messina).

On the outskirts of the city, it is well worth paying a visit to the

Cagliari salt-pans, located close to the Beach of the Poetto

(an area administrated by the Municipality of Cagliari and that

of Quartu Sant’Elena), and now included in the Regional Park

of the Molentargius which is famous for its flamingos. Today,

the salt city of the early twentieth century is considered to be

a site of industrial archaeology and comprises executive build-

ings, workers’ dwellings, a Church, a theatre, along with the

laboratories and workshops where the salt used to be extracted

and processed.

94

Along the coasts of a crystal-clear sea

There are numerous possible itineraries to follow if you wish to

enjoy the endless and stupendous coastline of Sardinia.

You may decide to start out from Alghero, in the north-west

of the island, and proceed towards the protected marine area

of the Parco di Porto Conte, with Punta del Giglio and Capo

Caccia. Here the karst rock headlands, the extremities of a

faunal oasis populated by Giara ponies, open out into uncon-

taminated marine grottos such as the Green Grotto and the

Grotto of Neptune. Take the fl ight of steps providing access

to the latter, and follow a trail of densely packed stalactites

and stalagmites leading to a marine lake surrounded by an ex-

traordinary play of light. Just a short distance away from Capo

Caccia, the nuraghi site of Palmavera makes you forget for a

few moments how close the sea is.

Completely different atmospheres and landscapes can be dis-

covered along the north-east coast by departing from Olbia,

a strategic location for Sardinian tourism thanks to its air-

port. The fi rst mandatory stopover is that of Porto Cervo, a

renowned holiday resort that takes its name from the rather

irregular morphology of the location, which extends along the

coasts of a natural harbour whose outline recalls that of a deer’s

horns. The streets, steps and porticos all converge in the little

central square directly connected with the old port with its nu-

merous designer fashion boutiques. The sight of luxury yachts

and leisure boats berthed in the port is one of the attractions

of this resort. We then move on to Palau, the customary de-

parture point for the archipelago of La Maddalena, where you

cannot help admiring the marvellous beaches that alternate

with granitic rocks to create a truly breathtaking landscape.

Close to the centre of Palau, you will encounter Capo d’Orso, a

granitic hill rising up 122 metres, whose form, modelled by the

95

natural elements, recalls the figure of a majestic bear. Around

Palau there are lots of nuraghi sites and “giants’ tombs”. An-

other not-to-be-missed location is that of Santa Teresa di Gallura, whose layout was designed by Victor Emanuel I of

Savoy in 1808. Today it is one of the most spectacular seaside

resorts, thanks to its position facing the rocks on a particularly

indented stretch of coast.

If we decide to visit the south of the island, from Cagliari it is

possible to explore the sea bottom of the Golfo degli Angeli, to admire the ecosystem or “hunt” for wrecks. From Cagliari,

we then move on to Santa Margherita di Pula, with its little

tourist marina of Cala Verde, the rocky stacks of Capo Spar-

tivento, the Secca del Candeliere (meaning candlestick shal-

lows) with the three needles inspiring its name and a sandy

seabed at a depth of 40 metres inhabited by various forms of

life and countless archaeological remains left by ancient ship-

wrecks. Taking a boat to the archipelago of the Sulcis, visitors

can see the marvellous St. Peter’s island and the little islet

of Corno, under the lighthouse of Capo Sandalo. Glass bot-

tom boats enable you to enjoy the sight of coral reefs carpeting

the so-called Discesa delle Tacche Bianche (white-spotted de-

scent) at just 17 metres depth.

Opposite page: four picturesque images of the Sardinian coast.

This page, clockwise from the left: the interior of a cave; sand dunes in Porto Pino;

the Roccia dell’Orso in Palau; Cala Luna in the Bay of Orosei.

Back north, one of the most popular destinations for a boating

holiday is La Maddalena: an archipelago with seven major

islands of which only three are inhabited. The archipelago is

also famous for having been the last home of the Hero of Two

Worlds, Giuseppe Garibaldi, who built his famous White House

on Caprera, now a house museum and his burial place, open

to the public. The town of Maddalena, on the other hand,

looks onto the Harbour of Cala Gavetta and hosts the Nino

Lamboglia Museum, dedicated to undersea archaeology (Lam-

boglia studied and classified all the different types and shapes

of amphorae, and his name still lives on in the amphora clas-

sification code). Apart from these two islands, the archipelago

is also comprised of Santa Maria (with a small inhabited area),

Santo Stefano, Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli and other minor islets.

Their uncontaminated nature makes them absolutely fascinat-

ing, with their preponderance of colours and scents typical of

the Mediterranean maquis in an explosion of wild vegetation

that regenerates body and soul.

Comunità del GardaVia dei Colli, 15 - Villa Mirabella - 25083 Gardone Riviera (BS) - info@lagodigarda.it

www.lagodigarda.it

®

COMUNITÀdel GARDA

Foto: Giovanna Gatti

Foto: Giovanna Gatti

Foto: Giovanna Gatti

Foto: Bams Photo

Foto: Bams Photo

The Internet portal of Lake Garda

info & booking: +39 3388718653 | topcampcavallino@hotmail.com | www.topcampcavallino.com

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