Istanbul 9 - Contents - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/istanbul-9-contents.pdfscene....
Transcript of Istanbul 9 - Contents - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/istanbul-9-contents.pdfscene....
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
İstanbul
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Virginia Maxwell, James Bainbridge
Plan Your Trip 12
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to İstanbul .......4
İstanbul’s Top 10 .............6
What’s New .................... 13
Need to Know ................ 14
First Time ....................... 16
Getting Around .............. 18
Top Itineraries ...............20
If You Like .......................22
Month by Month ............24
With Kids ........................26
Like a Local .................... 27
For Free ..........................28
Eating ...........................29Drinking & Nightlife...36Entertainment ............39Shopping ......................42Hamams & Spas .........46
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand İstanbul 185
Survival Guide 207
İstanbul Maps 236
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore İstanbul 48
Transport .................... 208 Directory A–Z .............. 214
Language ..................... 218
Index ............................ 229
İstanbul Today ............ 186 History ......................... 188
Architecture .................197
İstanbul on Page & Screen ............202
Sultanahmet & Around ......................p52
Bazaar District ............ p91
Western Districts ...... p112
Beyoğlu ......................p123
Beşiktaş, Nişantaşı & Ortaköy ................... p147
Kadıköy .......................p155
Day Trips .................. 161Sleeping ................... 177
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BazaarDistrict
p91
WesternDistricts
p112
Sultanahmet& Around
p52
Beşiktaş, Nişantaşi& Ortaköy
p147
(left) Subterranean Basilica Cistern p76
(above) Streets of the Galata District p127
(right) Gate detail, Topkapı Palace p61
Top ItinerariesDay OneSultanahmet & Around (p52)
M Head to Aya Sofya Meydanı (Aya Sofya Sq) and work out which of the
museums and mosques in the immediate area will be on your visiting list. Don’t miss Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern. After your visits, wander through the Hippodrome, where chariot races were held in ancient times.
Sultanahmet & Around (p52)
R Diverge from the crowded tourist trail and follow our walking tour
down into the Küçük Ayasofya neighbour-hood. Afterwards, source some souvenirs in the historic Arasta Bazaar.
Sultanahmet & Around (p52)
N After dinner, claim a table at Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi or Cafe Meşale,
where you can enjoy tea, nargile (water pipe) and a free (but very touristy) whirling- dervish performance. Alternatively, head to the A’YA Rooftop Lounge at the ritzy Fours Seasons Hotel. In winter a treatment at one of the Old City’s Ottoman- era hamams is a relaxing and warm alternative.
Day TwoSultanahmet & Around (p52)
M It’s time to investigate the lifestyles of the sultans at Topkapı Palace.
You’ll need a half-day to explore the palace Harem, marvel at the precious objects in the Treasury, admire the recently renovated palace kitchens and wander through the pavilion-filled grounds.
Beyoğlu (p123)
R Explore the streets, cafes and boutiques of Galata, Tophane,
Karaköy and Çukurcuma and consider a visit to the eclectic Pera Museum or nostalgic Museum of Innocence.
Beyoğlu (p123)
N The night is still young! Hit the bars and clubs in Asmalımescit,
on İstiklal Caddesi or in Harbiye and Cihangir. Those who are still hungry should instead head to Karaköy for a ate-night baklava fix at Karaköy Güllüoğlu.
Dinner Have fish at Balıkçı Sabahattin (p84) or kebaps at Hamdi Restaurant (p105).
Lunch Join local workers at one of the humble lokantas (eateries serving ready-made food) in the area – Sefa
Restaurant (p82) is a popular choice.
Dinner Beyoğlu is the city’s eating and drinking hotspot. Enjoy a pre-dinner drink at a hipster bar in Asmalımescit
before enjoying fine meyhane-style food at Eleos (p135) or modern Turkish cuisine at Neolokal (p133).
Lunch Investigate the excellent cheap eateries on Sirkeci’s Hocapaşa Sokak; old-fashioned Hocapaşa Pidecisi (p83)
is one of our favourites.
20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Day ThreeBazaar District (p91)
M Get ready to explore the city’s famous Bazaar District. After visit-
ing the most magnificent of all Ottoman mosques, the Süleymaniye, make your way to the world-famous Grand Bazaar to explore its labyrinthine lanes and hidden caravanserais, picking up a few souvenirs along the way.
Bazaar District (p91)
R After lunch follow the steady stream of local shoppers making
their way down the hill to the Spice Bazaar. While there, seek out the exqui-site Rüstem Paşa Mosque, camouflaged in the midst of a busy produce market. As the sun starts to set, walk across Galata
Bridge towards the eating and entertain-ment district of Beyoğlu.
Beyoğlu (p123)
N Listen to some live jazz at Nardis or Salon. Alternatively, take a
Day FourThe Bosphorus (p162)
M Board the Long Bosphorus Tour (Uzun Boğaz Turu) for a one-way
trip up the Bosphorus and then make your way back to town by bus, visiting museums and monuments along the way. Alternatively, take the Dentur Avraysa hop-on, hop-off tour from Beşiktaş and visit the Sakıp Sabancı Museum in Emirgan and the Ottoman-era Küçüksu Kasrı and Beylerbeyi Palace.
Beyoğlu (p123)
R If you take a 90-minute cruise on a Bosphorus excursion boat rather
than the full-day or hop-on, hop-off trip, you can devote the afternoon to investigat-ing Beyoğlu’s exciting contemporary-art
scene. Don’t miss the İstanbul Modern, ARTER and Pera Museum.
Beyoğlu (p123)
N Bid farewell to the city over a post-dinner drink at one of Beyoğlu’s
Dinner Beyoğlu has restaurants, meyhanes and street food aplenty – explore these on a night-time food
tour with İstanbul Eats (p89), İstanbul on Food (p146) or Urban Adventures (p103).
Lunch Grab a cheap eat in or around the Grand Bazaar; head to Dürümcü Raif Usta (p107) or Dönerci Şahin
Usta (p107) for kebap, and Bena Dondurmaları (p107) for something sweet.
Dinner It’s time to sample the national dish, kebaps – head to Antiochia (p134) or Zübeyir Ocakbaşı (p135) to enjoy a
meaty feast.
Lunch If the weather is fine, enjoy a light lunch in the Hıdiv Kasrı Garden Cafe (p169). In cooler weather try one
of the cafes in the shadow of majestic Rumeli Hisarı – we particularly like the casual Sade Kahve (p169).
21PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
OP
ITIN
ER
AR
IES
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
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Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Tube station
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Gate
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
İstanbul Maps
236 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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æ Top Sights (p54) 9 Sublime Porte................ B3 ý Entertainment (p88) 1 İstanbul Archaeology Hodjapasha Museums .................... C3 ú Eating (p82) Cultural Centre..(see 13) 2 Topkapı Palace.............. C3 10 Gülhane Kandil
Tesisleri ....................... B3 þ Shopping (p88) æ Sights (p77) 11 Güvenç Konyalı ............. A2 17 Özlem Tuna.................... A2 3 Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar 12 Hafız Mustafa ................ A2
Literature 13 Hocapaşa Pidecisi......... A2 Ø Sports & Activities (p89) Museum Library......... B3 Matbah ..................(see 19) Caferağa 4 Aya İrini ..........................C4 14 Sefa Restaurant ............ A4 Medresesi ............(see 5) 5 Caferağa Medresesi ..... B4 18 Cağaloğlu Hamamı ....... A3 6 Gülhane Park................. B3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p84)
7 İstanbul Museum of the Caferağa ÿ Sleeping (p179) History of Science Medresesi Çay 19 Ottoman Hotel & Technology in Bahçesi.................(see 5) Imperial .......................B4 Islam ............................ B2 15 Cihannüma ....................B4 20 Sirkeci Mansion............. B3 8 Soğukçeşme Sokak...... C4 16 Kybele Cafe....................B4 21 Zeynep Sultan Hotel..... B4
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æ Top Sights (p54) ý Entertainment (p88) 1 Aya Sofya......................................................F1 37 Les Arts Turcs..............................................D1 2 Basilica Cistern ............................................E1
3 Blue Mosque................................................D4 þ Shopping (p88) 4 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts ...........C3 38 Cocoon......................................................... D5 39 Cocoon......................................................... E5 æ Sights (p77) 40 Galeri Kayseri...............................................B1 5 Arasta Bazaar..............................................E4 41 İznik Classics................................................F3 6 Aya Sofya Tombs........................................ F2 42 İznik Classics............................................... D5 7 Carpet Museum .......................................... G1 43 Jennifer's Hamam...................................... E5 8 Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III ..................... G1 44 Jennifer's Hamam......................................D6 9 Hippodrome ................................................C3 45 Khaftan ........................................................ C5 10 Imperial Gate............................................... G1 46 Mehmet Çetinkaya..................................... E4 11 Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain.........................D2 47 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery........................ D5 12 Little Aya Sofya ...........................................A6 Nakkaş ................................................ (see 15) 13 Marmara University Republican 48 Yilmaz Ipekçilik ........................................... E4 Museum ....................................................B4
14 Museum of Great Palace Mosaics............ E5 Ø Sports & Activities (p89) 15 Nakkaş..........................................................C5 49 Ambassador Spa.........................................D1 16 Obelisk of Theodosius................................C4 50 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı ............F2 17 Rough-Stone Obelisk .................................C4 51 Cooking Alaturka........................................ F4 18 Sokullu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque .......A4 52 İstanbul Walks............................................. C5 19 Sphendone ..................................................C5
20 Spiral Column..............................................C4 ÿ Sleeping (p179) 21 Sultanahmet Archaeological Park............ F2 53 Agora Guesthouse ..................................... F4 54 Ahmet Efendi Evi ........................................ F6 ú Eating (p82) 55 Arcadia Blue Hotel ..................................... B3 22 Ahırkapı Balıkçısı......................................... F6 56 Bahaus Hostel............................................. F4 23 Balıkçı Sabahattin.......................................G5 57 Big Apple Hostel ......................................... F4 Cheers Soul Kitchen.........................(see 58) 58 Cheers Lighthouse..................................... B6 24 Çiğdem Pastanesi....................................... B1 59 Dersaadet Hotel..........................................D6 25 Cooking Alaturka ........................................ F5 60 Four Seasons Istanbul at 26 Deraliye ........................................................ D1 Sultanahmet .............................................F3 27 Erol Lokantası.............................................. B1 61 Hanedan Hotel............................................G3 28 Hafız Mustafa ..............................................D2 62 Hotel Alilass................................................. F4 29 Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu ...... C1 63 Hotel Alp Guesthouse................................G3 30 Palatium....................................................... F3 64 Hotel Amira ................................................. B6 31 Sedef İskender ............................................ B1 65 Hotel Empress Zoe.....................................G3 32 Tarihi Çeşme Restaurant...........................A6 66 Hotel Grand Peninsula...............................G4 33 Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim 67 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha .................................. B4 Usta ...........................................................D2 68 Hotel Nomade..............................................D1 69 Hotel Peninsula...........................................G3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p84) 70 Hotel Şebnem .............................................G3 A'YA Rooftop Lounge.......................(see 60) 71 Marmara Guesthouse................................G3 34 Cafe Meşale .................................................E4 72 Metropolis Hostel.......................................G4 35 Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi .............................E3 73 Osman Han Hotel .......................................G4 Hotel Nomade Terrace Bar .............(see 68) 74 Sarı Konak Hotel..........................................F5 36 Lâle Pastanesi .............................................D2
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Eæ Top Sights (p93) Ethem Tezçakar 1 Grand Bazaar ........................D5 Kahveci ........................(see 1) 2 Spice Bazaar .........................E2 34 Kahve Dünyası ...................... E5 3 Süleymaniye Mosque.......... C3 35 Lale Bahçesi ..........................B3 36 Mimar Sinan Teras Cafe......C2 æ Sights (p99) 37 Pandeli ................................... E2 4 Aqueduct of Valens ..............A3 Şark Kahvesi .................. (see 1) 5 Beyazıt Mosque ....................C5 38 Vefa Bozacısı.........................A3 6 Beyazıt Square......................C5
7 Beyazıt State Library............C5 þ Shopping (p108) 8 Beyazıt Tower....................... C4 Abdulla Natural 9 Büyük Valide Han................. D4 Products ...................... (see 1) 10 Church of the Monastery 39 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir........ E3 of Christ Pantokrator ........ A1 40 Altan Şekerleme ...................C2 11 Column of Constantine........E5 Arifoğlu.........................(see 42) 12 Galata Bridge......................... E1 41 Armine....................................D4 13 Hünkâr Kasrı..........................E3 42 Cankurtaran Gıda ................. E3 14 İstanbul University............... C3 Derviş ..............................(see 1) 15 Laleli Mosque ........................A5 Dhoku..............................(see 1) 16 Mahmutpaşa Hamamı .........E4 Epoque............................(see 1) 17 New Mosque..........................E2 EthniCon .........................(see 1) 18 Nuruosmaniye Mosque........E5 43 Hafız Mustafa........................ E3 19 Rüstem Paşa Mosque ......... D2 Koç Deri Leather............ (see 1) 20 Şehzade Mehmet Mosque...A4 44 Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi ..................................D3 ú Eating (p102) 45 Malatya Pazarı ...................... E3 Aynen Dürüm .................(see 1) Mehmet Kalmaz 21 Bahar Restaurant .................D5 Baharatçı ...................(see 51) 22 Bena Dondurmaları ..............E5 Mekhann .........................(see 1) 23 Bereket Döner.......................B2 Muhlis Günbattı ............. (see 1) 24 Develi Baklava ...................... D2 Necef Antik & Gold ........ (see 1) 25 Dönerci Şahin Usta...............E5 46 Nil Baharat.............................D2 26 Dürümcü Raif Usta ...............E4 47 Sahaflar Çarşısı.....................C5 Fes Cafe ..........................(see 1) Serhat Geridönmez....... (see 1) Gazientep Burç 48 Sevan Bıçakçı........................ E5 Ocakbaşı ......................(see 1) 49 Silk & Cashmere ................... E5 27 Hamdi Restaurant ............... D2 50 Sofa ........................................ E5 Havuzlu Restaurant.......(see 1) 51 Ucuzcular Baharat ............... E3 Kokoreççi Erdinç Ümit Berksoy ................. (see 1) Usta ...........................(see 25) 52 Vakko İndirim ........................ E3 28 Kuru Fasülyeci Erzincanlı Yazmacı Necdet Ali Baba ...............................B3 Danış ............................(see 1) 29 Mavi Haliç Pidecisi ............... D2
30 Meşhur Dönercı Hacı Ø Sports & Activities (p111) Osman'ın Yeri .................... C4 53 Çemberlitaş Hamamı ........... E5 31 Pak Pide & Pizza Salonu ..... D3 54 Gedikpaşa Hamamı..............D6
û Drinking & Nightlife (p106) ÿ Sleeping (p182) 32 Darüzziyafe (Former Soup 55 Burckin Suites Hotel ............ E6 Kitchen)...............................B3 56 Hayriye Hanım Konağı .........C2 33 Erenler Nargile ve Çay 57 Saruhan Hotel .......................D7 Bahçesi................................D5
243
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TARLABAŞI
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BEYO
ĞLU
– N
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æ Top Sights (p125) 25 5 Kat ............................................................. E6 1 İstiklal Caddesi............................................C5 26 Araf...............................................................C4 2 Pera Museum ..............................................A6 27 Cafe Grand Boulevard ............................... B5 28 CUE İstiklal ..................................................B6 æ Sights (p127) 29 Haspa...........................................................D4 3 Akbank Art...................................................D4 30 Indigo ...........................................................B6 4 Avrupa Pasajı...............................................B5 31 Kloster.......................................................... B5 5 Aya Triada....................................................E4 32 Manda Batmaz............................................B6 6 Çiçek Pasajı .................................................C5 33 MiniMüzikHol .............................................. E6 7 Fish Market..................................................B5 34 Solera...........................................................C6 8 Galatasaray Lycée ......................................C6 35 Tek Yön ........................................................ E5 9 Galerı Nev.....................................................B6 36 Topless Teras .............................................D4 10 İstanbul Arastırmaları Enstitüsü...............A6 37 Urban ...........................................................C5 11 Mixer.............................................................E4
12 Taksim Meydanı..........................................E3 ý Entertainment (p142) 13 Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi ...........................B5 38 Başka Sinema............................................. C5 39 Garajistanbul...............................................B6 ú Eating (p131) 40 Jolly Joker.................................................... C5 14 Çukur Meyhane...........................................C5 41 Munzur Cafe & Bar..................................... D5 15 Çukurcuma 49 ............................................D5
16 Cuma ............................................................C6 þ Shopping (p143) 17 Hacı Abdullah ..............................................C4 42 A La Turca ................................................... D5 18 Hayvore........................................................C5 43 Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir .............................D4 19 İnci Pastanesi ..............................................D4 44 Antijen Design.............................................C6 20 Kafe Ara........................................................B6 45 Hafız Mustafa.............................................. E4 21 Klemuri .........................................................D5 46 Mephisto...................................................... C5 Pera Café ............................................. (see 2) 47 Nahıl .............................................................D4 22 Savoy Pastanesi..........................................D6 48 Pandora .......................................................D4 23 Zencefil.........................................................D4 49 Petek Turşuları ........................................... B5 24 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı........................................D4 50 Reşat Balık Market..................................... B5 51 Seyahan....................................................... B5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p140) 52 Sütte Şarküteri ........................................... B5 360........................................................ (see 9) Üç Yıldız Şekerleme ......................... (see 52)
246
BEYOĞLU – SO
UTHW
ESTBEYOĞLU – SOUTHWEST Map on p248
æ Sights (p127) 46 Leb-i Derya ..................................................D2 1 Arab Mosque ...............................................B4 Mikla....................................................(see 81) 2 ARTER .......................................................... D1 47 Off Pera.........................................................C1 3 Azapkapı Sokollu Mehmet Paşa 48 Old Java .......................................................D3 Mosque......................................................A4 49 Parantez ......................................................C2 4 Christ Church ..............................................D3 50 Ravouna 1906 ..............................................D1 5 Depo .............................................................E3 51 Ritim Galata.................................................C4 6 Galata Mevlevi Museum.............................C2 52 Sensus Wine Bar ........................................ C3 7 Galata Tower ...............................................C4 53 Smyrna ......................................................... F1 8 Galerist......................................................... C1 54 Unter ............................................................ E4 9 İstanbul Modern.......................................... F3
10 Museum of Innocence.................................E1 ý Entertainment (p142) 11 Museum of Turkish Jews...........................B3 55 Borusan Art..................................................C1 12 Pera Palace Hotel ....................................... C1 Galata Mevlevi Museum .....................(see 6) 13 SALT Galata.................................................C4 56 Nardis Jazz Club.........................................C4 14 The Empire Project......................................F1 57 Salon ............................................................ B2
ú Eating (p131) þ Shopping (p143) 15 Aheste ..........................................................C2 58 Artrium.........................................................C3 16 Antiochia......................................................C2 59 Arzu Kaprol .................................................C3 17 Asmalı Canım Ciğerim ............................... C1 60 Bou Art & Design........................................ E4 18 Asmalı Cavit................................................. C1 61 Denizler Kitabevi..........................................D1 19 Cafe Privato.................................................C3 62 Eyüp Sabri Tuncer...................................... E4 20 Dandin .......................................................... F3 63 Hamm .......................................................... E2 21 Datlı Maya .....................................................F1 64 Hiç ................................................................D3 22 Demeti.......................................................... G1 65 İroni ..............................................................C4 23 Eleos .............................................................C2 66 La Cave Wine Shop ..................................... F1 24 Güney ...........................................................C3 67 Lale Plak.......................................................C2 25 Hamdi Restaurant Pera ............................. B1 68 Mabel Çikolata ............................................ D5 26 Helvetia Lokanta .........................................C2 69 Mariposa.......................................................G1 27 Jash............................................................... G1 70 Mekhann...................................................... E2 28 Journey .........................................................F1 Misela.................................................. (see 15) 29 Kahve 6 .........................................................F1 71 NYKS ............................................................D2 30 Karaköy Güllüoğlu ......................................D5 72 Opus3a..........................................................G1 31 Karaköy Gümrük.........................................D5 73 Selda Okutan............................................... E4 Karaköy Lokantası............................(see 79) 74 Tezgah Alley.................................................C1 32 Mavra............................................................D3
33 Meze by Lemon Tree.................................. C1 Ø Sports & Activities (p146) Mikla ................................................... (see 81) 75 Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı ................................ E3 34 Namlı Gurme ...............................................D5
35 Neolokal .......................................................C5 ÿ Sleeping (p182) 36 Sahrap..........................................................C2 76 Bankerhan Hotel.........................................C4 37 Sofyalı 9 .......................................................C2 77 Casa di Bava.................................................E1 78 Hamamhane ................................................E1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p140) 79 Karaköy Rooms .......................................... E4 38 Alex's Place.................................................. C1 80 Louis Appartements .................................. C3 Cihangir 21 .........................................(see 28) 81 Marmara Pera..............................................C1 39 Coffee Sapiens............................................ F3 Pera Palace Hotel..............................(see 12) 40 Dem ..............................................................D4 82 Rapunzel Hostel .........................................C4 41 Federal Coffee Company...........................C3 83 TomTom Suites...........................................D1 42 Fil...................................................................E4 84 Vault Karaköy.............................................. C5 43 Geyik..............................................................F1 85 Witt Istanbul Hotel ......................................F2 44 Karabatak ....................................................E4 86 World House Hostel ................................... C3 45 Kronotrop .....................................................F1
247
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......
(see
4)
9
Pha
nar G
reek
Ort
hodo
x C
olle
ge...
......
.....
D4
10
Yav
uz S
ulta
n S
elim
Mos
que.
......
......
......
..D4
ú E
atin
g (p
121)
11 A
gora
Mey
hane
si...
......
......
......
......
......
......
C2
12
Asi
tane
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
..B
3
13 A
ziz
Caf
e...
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
..D
3
14 F
orno
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
.....
D3
û D
rink
ing
& N
ight
life
(p12
2)
15
Cof
fee
Dep
artm
ent..
......
......
......
......
......
....C
3 Ø
Spo
rts
& A
ctiv
itie
s (p
122)
16 M
ihri
mah
Sul
tan
Ham
amı..
......
......
......
.....
A4
ÿ S
leep
ing
(p18
2)
17
Akı
n H
ouse
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
..D
3
252
KAdIKÖY
#
#
¡
£
#á
#á #á
#ÿ#æ
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
f
f
f
f
û
ý
û
ü
ü
#
#
#
›
›
›
KADIKÖ
Y
MO
DA
YELDEĞİRM
ENİ
Sea of Marm
ara(M
armara D
enizi)
Hacı Ahmet Sevkı BeySk
Sahil Yolu
Serasker Cad
Uzun H
afız Sk
İzzettin Sk
NailbeyS
k
Racizode S
k
Misak-ı M
illi Cad
Hasırcıbaşı Cad
Albay Faik Sözdener Cad
MFuatSk
Muvakkithane
CadNeșe Sk
NushetEfendi Sk
Mühürdar Cad
RızaPaşaSk
MuratBey
Sk
Moda Cad
KuşdiliC
ad
Sakiz Sk
Nem
lizadeS
k
H şükrü Sk
SakızgülüSk
Cilek
Sk
DrEsatIşıKCad
Ahter Sk
Mühürdar Cad
Gen Asim Gündüz (Bahariye) Cad
GüneşlibahçeSk
Misbah
Muhayyes Sk
Kadife Sk
RihtimCadSöğütlüçeşm
e Cad
Halitağa Cad
LeylakSk
İskele Sk
Tuğlacı Emin Bey Sk
Reşit Efendi S
k
Söğütlüçeşme
Cad
İnkişafCad
KarakolhaneCad
Yavuztürk Sk
Ferit Bey S
k
Kadıköy
Haydarpașa
İskelesi(Ferry D
ock)
Ferries toK
araköy &Em
inönü
Turyol Ferriesto Em
inönü&
Karaköy
Dolm
uşesto Ü
sküdar
Bus
Station
Ferries to Adalar
(Princes' Islands)
& B
eşiktaş
Dolm
uşesto Taksim
Street M
uralby A
dekan
Street M
uralby A
mose
Street M
ural byPixelPancho
12
14
9
10
18
13
3
CD
B
CD
EB
A
4 3 2 1
A
14
E
23
#á
#ÿ
# ##
þ þþ
##ææ
#
#
#
#
#
#
#ú
ú
ü
ú
ú
Ü
Ü
Güneşlibahçe Sk
Yasa CadAlbay FaikSözdenerCad
Muvakkithane
Cad
Neşet OmerSk
Dumlupınar
Sk
Serasker Cad
Mühürdar Cad
Moda Cad
KadıköyProduceM
arket
1
5
67
8
15
16
1711
19
4
2
See Enlargement
0100
m0
0.05m
iles
0400
m0
0.2m
iles# e
æ Top Sights
(p157)
1 Kadıköy P
roduce Market.......................A
4 æ
Sights (p158)
2 A
ya Efimia R
um O
rtodoks Kilisesi........B
3
3 Haydarpaşa R
ailway S
tation.................B
1
4 Surp Takavor Erm
eni Kilisesi................A
3 ú
Eating (p158)
5 B
aylan Pastanesi....................................A
3
6 Çiya S
ofrası..............................................A4
7 H
oneyci....................................................A4
8 K
adı Nim
et Balıkçılık...............................A
3 û
Drinking &
Nightlife
(p159)
9 Arkaoda....................................................D
4
10 arthere......................................................D
2
11 Fazıl Bey...................................................B
3
12 Karga B
ar.................................................D4
13 W
alter's Coffee R
oastery.......................D4
ý Entertainm
ent (p159)
14 S
üreyya Opera H
ouse............................D
3 þ
Shopping (p160)
15 A
li Muhiddin H
acı Bekir..........................A
3
16 Mephisto
..................................................A3
17 M
esut Güneş
...........................................B3
ÿ Sleeping
(p184)
18 Hush H
ostel Lounge...............................D1
19 H
ush Hostel M
oda..................................A
4
253
KARI
YE m
USEU
m
The voyage of the Virgin to Bethlehem & the dream of Joseph
The census held for the enrolment for taxation & registration of Mary & Joseph in the presence of Cyrenius, Governor of Syria
Jesus going with Mary & Joseph to Jerusalem
Remains of mosaics – Jesus among the doctors in the temple
St TrachosSt AndronikusThe birth of JesusThe return of the Virgin Mary with JesusThe attempts of Satan to deceive JesusSt GeorgiosSt DemetriusJesus & the inscription ‘the dwelling-place
of the living’The prayer of the Virgin & the attendant
angelsThe wedding at Cana & the miraclesDepiction of the saintsDepiction of the saintsThe Magi on their way to Jerusalem riding
on horseback & the three Magi in audience with King Herod
Elizabeth & John the Baptist running away from a pursuing soldier
Remains of mosaicsDepiction of the saintsDepiction of the saintsThe scene of King Herod’s investigation & a
guard standingThe mourning mothersNo mosaics leftA decorative medallionThe meeting of Jesus with the Samaritan
woman at the wellThe healing of a paralysed person by JesusKing Herod giving the order for the
massacre of the innocents & the execution thereof
Remains of mosaicsThe healing by Jesus of a young man with
an injured armThe healing by Jesus of leprous manTwenty-four of the early ancestors of Jesus
(Genealogy of Christ)The healing by Jesus of a woman asking for
the restoration of her healthThe healing by Jesus of the mother-in-law
of St PeterThe healing by Jesus of a deaf person
1
2
3
4
5A5B678
9A9B10
11
1213A13B14
15
1617A17B18
19202122
2324
2526A
26B27
28
29
30
æMosaics
69 7256
7170
66
677576
7868
7374
77
65 6463 62 59 55 54
61
60 57
58
53
5251
50B
50C
36
34
38
39 40
353741B 41A
4442
43
45B 45A
50A4746
48
49A49B32 29
3327
31
30 2826A26B
25
23 24
21
22
20
19 18
17A17B
1516
14
13A13B
1112
10
9A9B8
67
5B 5A
24
31
G
H
I
J
Annex
Apse
PF K U O NL
M
E
D
C
B
A
Exit
Entrance
Nave
OuterNarthex
InnerNarthex
Parecclesion
KARİYE MUSEUM
254
KARIYE mUSEUm
Dispersion of good health by Jesus to the people
The healing by Jesus of two blind menThe Khalke Jesus & the praying VirginMary and the Baby Jesus surrounded by
her ancestorsJoachim in the mountains praying to have a
childNo mosaics leftThe breaking of the good news of the birth
of Jesus to Mary – The AnnunciationThe chief priest Zacchariah judging the
VirginMary & Joseph bidding each other farewellThe breaking of the good news of the birth
of Mary to AnneThe meeting of Anne & JoachimJoseph bringing the Virgin into his houseMary in the arms of Anne & Joachim & the
blessing by the priestsGiving of the stick with young shoots
indicating Joseph as Mary’s fiancéThe birth of the Virgin MaryThe first seven steps of the Virgin & below,
St PeterThe prayer of the chief priest Zacchariah in
front of the 12 sticksThe presentation of Mary (age three) to the
temple by her parentsThe Virgin taking the skeins of wool to
weave the veil for the templeTheodore Metochites presenting a small
model of the church to JesusThe feeding of the Virgin by an angel &
below, St PeterRemains of mosaics – Directives given to
the Virgin at the templeThe Assumption of the VirginMary and the Baby JesusJesus in a standing posture, holding the
Bible in his hand
The AnastasisThe Church fathersThe raising (resurrection of the widow's
son)The healing of the daughter of JairusThe Virgin ElousaThe Last JudgementAbraham & the beggar Lazarus on his lapSt GeorgeRich man burning in Hell's fireThose entering Heaven & the Angel
Seraphim with the semi-nude good thiefDepiction of Andronikus II & his family &
the inscription & depiction above of Makarios Tornikes & his wife Eugenia
The Bearing of the Ark of the CovenantSt DemetriusSt Theodore TiroMary & child Jesus with the 12 attending
angelsFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
CosmosFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
John of DamasceneFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
TheophanesFour Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St
JosephSt Theodore StratelatesKing Solomon & the IsraelitesPlacement into the temple of the Ark of the
CovenantThe combat of an angel with the Asurians in
the outskirts of JerusalemSt Procopios, St Sabas StratelatesMoses in the bushesJacob's ladder & the angelsAaron & his sons carrying votive offerings,
in front of the altarSt Samonas & Guiras
31
323334
35
3637
38
3940
41A41B42
43
4445A
45B
46
47
48
49A
49B
50A50B50C
515253
54555657585960
61
62636465
66
67
68
69
707172
73
74757677
78
æ Frescoes
255
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541539th edition – February 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 228 8© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Our WritersVirginia MaxwellBazaar District, Beyoğlu, Kadıköy, Day TripsAlthough based in Australia, Virginia spends part of each year in Turkey. As well as working on the previous five editions of this city guide, she also writes Lonely Planet’s Pocket İstanbul, covers İstanbul, İzmir and the North Aegean for the Turkey guide, and writes about the city for a host of international magazines and
websites. Virginia also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survive sections of this guide.
James BainbridgeSultanahmet & Around, Western Districts, Beşiktaş, Nişantaşı & OrtaköyJames is a British writer based in South Africa’s Cape Winelands, where he writes for publications worldwide. He has been working on Lonely Planet pro-jects for more than a decade, including coordinating five editions of Turkey, writing the first edition of Discover Turkey and contributing a major feature on
Turkey to Lonely Planet Traveller magazine. He was extremely happy to return to his old stomping ground of İstanbul, where he once lived and took a Turkish-language course.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’