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California Native Plants recommended for drought conditions in the Ojai Valley CA Native Pioneer PlantsCA Native plants for under and around California native oaks CA Native plants for a fast growing screen or hedgeCA native plants for large tracts of bare land Large low growing, spreading groundcover plants

Many variables affect the growth of plants. Notes are from personal experience growing CA native plants in the Ojai Valley during drought conditions. With deep watering during establishment phase and additional winter watering, author finds that the lowest amount of water listed in growing range by botanists/growers may be more than enough to survive OV drought. Judging water needs is difficult with late spring/summer planting, but not impossible.Planting and Watering Guides are at the end of this document.Plant: Buy from a nursery specializing in (mostly) CA natives.

Growth:CA native plants have variable growth rates; mature plant size depends on specific conditions found at the planting location.

Characteristics:Large evergreens should be the first choice when ‘designing’ with natives. Choose pioneer plants first /at the same time when restoring native vegetation to an area.

Requirements:If planting in full sun before summer months, shade tents are essential. Gophers will be attracted to water; use gopher cages around plant roots.

Examples of Pioneer Plants of the Ojai Valley:

When an area is bare of vegetation, the first native seeds that germinate and grow are termed the ‘pioneer plants’. When starting a CA native planting, a few pioneers early in the overall design and plant process provide encouragement with their ease of establishment, green or gray color, and low water needs. Later they’ll provide shade and most CA native plants share moisture and nutrition. This is accomplished by mycorrhizae, a symbiotic relationship of roots and fungi.

Artemisia californica, California Sagebrush

3-4 x 3-4’ Strong sage fragrance. On undisturbed land, oaks will be found starting under pioneers, especially sagebrush. Looks sad in summer, but survives without summer water.

Evergrey plant, soft looking gray green ‘needles’ until hot weather when the plant looks spiky and dry without water. But it’s still alive and shading anything planted on its north side. Quail like the seed and the shelter it provides.

Good drainage, no summer water.South facing slope near coast, but inland (Ojai Valley) plant on a north or west aspect for best growth and appearance.

Baccharis pilularis consanguinea,Coyote BrushUseful in establishing a larger garden.

Height variable, usually 5 x 4’ in a year or two, may get taller and wider. Can be pruned for better shape.Not a first choice of gardeners until one is planted in a bare, hot spot changing it to a tall, green spot in a few months. Add to a mixed hedge for quick fill and green.

Buy Baccharis pilularis consanguinea or there will not be as much seed set or ‘recruitment’ meaning new plants occurring naturally (also known as volunteers). May have exposed ‘legs’ over time, but if planted within a designed group, the lower branches will be covered and there will be instant green and fast height.

Tolerates barren, dry land, clay, and heat. Needs water to get established. Important as a late ‘flowering’ (insignificant) plant for pollinators in fall when little else is available. Author has known this to volunteer in shade too.

Salvia mellifera, Black Sage Low growing ‘repens’ or ‘Terra Seca’ too.

Often listed as 3 x 3’, this routinely grows to 4-5 x 4-5’ in the Ojai Valley. It does need a little more water than the above pioneers, but looks good enough to plant near house.

Useful green accent when starting a native garden, reliable. Somewhat insignificant white-blue flowers, throughout the year, attracting hummingbirds & butterflies. Quail like the seed.

Sunny, dry slopes, sun, but will grow in light shade. Leave room to spread as it looks best when not pruned. OK in gravel, sand, loam or clay.

Eriogonum fasciculatum foliosumCalifornia Buckwheat

3 x 6’ spread. White flowers, turning to rust, mostly green foliage. Solvang nursery has very large, tough, low green buckwheat too.

Mini-wildlife plant, especially butterflies.Reliable, even attractive, especially at a distance and when planted in groups.

Sun, handles sand or clay. Tolerates a little shade for a few hours, but best in sun.

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Plants for hot spots e.g. south facing or reflected heat

Growth: CA native plants have variable growth rates and mature size depending on conditions found in the planting location.

Characteristics: Large evergreens should be the first choice when ‘designing’ with natives. Choose pioneer plants first/at the same time when restoring natives to an area.

Requirements:If planting in sun before summer months, shade tents are essential.

Note: In first year of establishment, provide Ceanothus species some protection from the worst of the summer heat e.g. a temporary shade tent.Rhus ovata, Sugar BushWill not grow in shade. Can be pruned, but best to allow for full size (10 x 10’). Insignificant flowers.

7-10 x 7-10’. Can make a very slow start, taking several months, but once growth starts it is fast - 5-6’ in 18 months is usual.Takes reflected sun. May be purchased as a very small plant, just 3-4 leaves. Acceptable if well rooted, plant with care: gopher cage, shade tent if weather is hot - until weather changes or plant is partly established – 3’+.

Evergreen. Incredibly drought tolerant after a short establishment phase. Lush, large, taco folded, green leaves all year. Somewhat dense foliage, but not totally so – OK in front of window to increase privacy, allows some light, and reduces heat. Reddish stems. Specimen plant or plant in center or back of large area and ‘design’ out from it.

Inhospitable land, good drainage, full sun. Will not grow in shade.Needs some water to get established; water with care. After establishment, may go for months without water, even in times of very low natural rainfall. Always dark green, reliable for a hot spot with good drainage.

Ceanothus ‘Ray Hartman’ – the fastest growing Ceanothus (CA lilac) and the tallest.

12-15’ tall usually 7-12’ in two years. Fastest growing Ceanothus. Shorter life on drip irrigation, but 20+ years with infrequent, careful watering after establishment. Grown mainly for fast height, but looks good massed or in a mixed ‘hedge’ or screen. Usually needs 8-10’+ stake, especially in windy areas.

Evergreen. Tall shrub or small tree, leaves are sparser when grown in hot areas and some may turn yellow – this is normal for many Ceanothus spp. in summer. Stays denser and greener given even a minimum amount shade in hot part of day. Good blue flower display in April for approx. 7 weeks.

Tolerates full sun with care; shade tent support essential during establishment in full sun. Does best when a pioneer plant is on S/SW side offering shade to the young plant. Easiest to establish if given light natural shade in hottest part of day.

Ceanothus ‘Celestial Blue’

6 x 6’ (Detail awaited, still being established) ‘Fluorescent’ blue flowers from April-early May. Attracts pollinators.

Has been easy, growing with little water in a hint of midday shade.

Ceanothus ‘Concha’Reliable, readily available

Often listed as 4 x 4’ but is usually 5 x 6’ in full sun with little water. A small CA redbud tree or shrub with three ‘Concha’ (not too close, allow room for the redbud to spread) makes a striking spring design with few plants.

Blue flowers late March for approx. 6 weeks.Attractive, arching form, starts the flowering season in the area earlier if planted with (in front of) Ceo. ‘Ray Hartman’.

Drought tolerant and full sun once established, although will grow in dappled shade. Sparser foliage and some brown leaves in summer are normal.

Ceanothus ‘Joyce Coulter’, Creeping Mountain Lilac(form is more ‘mounding/arching than ‘creeping’)

2-5 x 12’. Significant, even specimen plant, but generally lower growing.If taller branches are unwanted, prune them lower. Canes may be ‘trained’ in general direction preferred with use of large garden staples e.g. into more long than round shape.

Blue flowers from March for eight weeks, a longer season than many Ceanothus.Mountain lilacs have smaller leaves than other Ceanothus spp. and tend to be less preferred by browsing deer… (this does not mean ‘deer proof’).

Special use is to stabilize a bank.

Considered a reliable, drought resistant plant with a long life if not overwatered.

Ceanothus ‘Wheeler Canyon’Blue Mountain LilacMatilija Nursery

6’ x 6-10’ Similar to Concha, but more compact. Over time, may grow into a canopy shape with multiple slim trunks.(Matilija Nursery usually grows these.)

Good dark blue flower color over most of plant starting mid-March for ten weeks.Shiny, small leaves (mountain type).

Can be harder to establish; give shade tent protection during hotter weather and only deep watering, but is likely to be a good plant for the Ojai Valley.

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Plants for hot spots continued:

Growth Characteristics Requirements

Cercocarpus betuloides, Mountain Mahogany

To 15’, usually about 7’ in two years, but very variable in growth rate. Can be very slow to get started. Slim plant, about 6’ wide when mature – very useful in narrow borders.

Yellow flowers very early in the year, followed by silvery, feathery fruits. Decorative. Reliable, once established, but the author loses one occasionally during establishment. Evergreen.

Tolerates full sun, drought tolerant after establishment, but appreciates extra water. Clay and wind OK. Can be slow to get started.

Prunus ilicifolia, Holly-leafed Cherry

To 14’, small tree. Reported as slow growing, author’s is 3’ in two years from a one gallon pot in full sun. Not too slow. Evergreen. May sucker, so keep to one main trunk in small space.

White flowers in March, very showy. Large red cherries in the fall. Birds love the fruit. Small specimen tree, but place where cherry stains are not going to be a problem on the ground.

Full sun, has low water requirements after establishment. Needs good drainage. Wildlife plant. ‘Cherries’ are mostly skin and seed, edible, but not tasty.

Juglans californica, Southern CA (Black) Walnut

15-25’ Deciduous. An uncommon tree native to oak woodland areas. Grew to 4’ in eighteen months from a one gallon pot.

Lovely, elegant triangle shape when young. An excellent plant for wildlife. The nuts are edible, but small. It is allelopathic and there is little that can grow under it - not always a problem.

A good plant for a seasonally wet spot or give it extra water throughout the winter. The author’s has grown well on very little extra water.

Sambucus mexicana, Mexican elderberry or Blue elderberry.

Also known as Tapiro. To 12 x 12’ at least. Deciduous. Can be pruned. Fast growing. A mini-wildlife plant, very valuable.

Yellow flowers in late Spring, followed by purple berries in fall. Deciduous. Can get very large if is likes where it is.

Full sun to part shade, extra water, especially during the winter months. Survives drought after 5 years+

Salvia clevelandii, ‘Alpine’

3 x 4’ Not an Alpine ‘mountain’ sage, it’s named after the town of Alpine, east of San Diego, where it is hot and dry most of the summer and colder than SD in the winter.

Strong blue color, sometimes in flower from May-December. Tough once established. Low water. Took a little extra care to establish in heat.

A sage, no summer water after establishment. The author’s favorite sage after S. ‘Pozo Blue’- which can be too large for a small yard.

Salvia ‘Celestial Blue’ - A large sage, plant with enough space to spread.

6 x 6’ (Note there is a Ceanothus and a Sage named ‘Celestial Blue’ – after Bert Wilson’s widow, Celeste, at Las Pilitas Nursery.

Deep blue flowers. Birds, butterflies.Tough plant after establishment. Author’s tripled in size in six months from one gallon.

Stable, easy, tolerates extreme heat, shade, clay, water, and inexperienced native plant gardeners.

Salvia ‘Pozo Blue’Plant ‘Alpine’ for a smaller plant, flowering for much longer. Or mix them, ‘Alpine’ in front.

Think 5-6 x 6’ and the planting space will be correct. Large, sprawling sage, but will sprout from center if cut back. Cutting back sages is often recommended by CA native landscapers. The author usually does not, but the landscape ‘design’ is not formal.

Gorgeous if massed with periwinkle blue display in mid-spring, for six weeks. Evergray. Leave seed heads for birds. It’s large and a little messy, but worth it, especially at a distance (e.g. 10-15’) from main viewpoints.

No summer water after establishment. Recommended for a spring display on a large, dry, sunny lot. Four plants will make a show over 15 x 15’ (or 7 x 30’). Mix with Coyote Brush or Black sage for green fill.

Isomeris arboreaBladderpod and California Cleome

4 x 6’ Full sun. Can make a slow start, but then quick growth. Sparse, arching growth that thickens with time, making a mound of grey-green. Surprisingly, hummingbirds visit the yellow flowers in late summer.

Evergrey foliage. Yellow flowers most months of the year. Large pods exist in hanging groups at the same time as the flowers. Flowers not showy, but a constant display. Good in groups of three to five for an evergrey statement.

Very drought tolerant, quick to establish with little water.Recommended, easy, attractive, handles the sun well after establishment.

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Impossible spot, hot, dry, full sun, reflected heat, shale, gravel, sand, chaparral, granitic scree, steep south facing slope?

Salvia apiana, White sage

Think 5 x 5’ but takes a while to get this large.Fragrant. Can look good enough to be a specimen plant in the right spot.With buckwheat, one of the plants that will thrive naturally on very low amounts of rainfall. No summer water.

Evergrey, almost white-grey when mature. Large leaves, crinkly when young, smooth out when older. White-lavender flowers in summer giving some pollinators a challenge to enter. Author waters, during establishment from a few feet uphill from the plant.

Sun. No summer water after establishment which occurs in a few months. Will also grow in well drained loam, even light clay, especially on a slope as well as in sand, gravel etc. Good drainage essential.

Baccharis pilularis consanguinea,Coyote Brush - if you doubt your ability to grow CA natives, plant this first. Also the low growing types.

Height variable, usually 5 x 4’ in a year or two, may get 2-3’ taller and wider. Can be pruned for better shape. Not a favorite plant until one is planted in a bare, hot spot and changes it to a tall green spot. Add to a mixed hedge for quick green fill. Author’s most useful plant, along with Black sage.

Do buy Baccharis pilularis consanguinea or there will not be as much seed set or ‘recruitment’ meaning new plants occurring naturally. May have exposed lower limbs over time. Plant in groups at 6’-8’ centers for best appearance.Also low growing, very useful, B. ‘Pozo Surf’, ‘Pigeon Point’ and ‘Twin Peaks’. Last two are lighter green. Stabilize banks with these.

Tolerates barren, dry land, clay, and heat. Needs water to become established. Important as a late ‘flowering’ (insignificant flowers) plant for pollinators in fall when little else is available. B. ‘Pozo Surf’ looks the most appropriate low cultivar near a home. Plant 4’ from pathways.

Need a faster growing hedge or screen in a hot border?In the hottest places where a full screen between neighbors is required, plant, with early shade protection until established:If a decorative hedge or screen is required, use Ceanothus ‘Ray Hartman’. Reliably grows quickly to 7-10’ or more in two years, but foliage gets sparse in hotter weather. Fills out in the next cool season, blue flowers in spring. One of the fastest growing CA native plants. Usually will need shade protection (tomato cage draped in cloth) during its first summer. A pioneer plant on the SW side, to shade the hedge plant in the hottest part of the day, can also be used as ‘shade’.Arctostaphylos ‘Dr. Hurd’ and Toyon can be added only if there is some shade, some of the day. The ‘Dr. Hurds’ will be much slower, 3-4’ from one gallon pots in two years (worth a five or six year wait to small tree size). These are exceptionally beautiful small trees, need a little shade, but if grown for the long term look in a mixed hedge are a good investment in time.At the edge of oaks, Toyons make an exceptional hedge or screen if there is a little shade – they have brown leaves if they receive full sun at midday.Toyon will grow in a hot spot if planted within a mixed hedge e.g. some fast growing pioneer plants, to protect it in the first summers. Give a little extra water in the first two years. Use Baccharis pilularis consanguinea, Coyote Brush for quick fill, but will not grow much above 5-6’. In full sun or reflected sun from a wall, Rhus ovata, Sugar Bush, can be included, but may not grow as tall as the others, usually 10- x 10’ maximum. (The author grows these as specimen plants in the hottest spots, giving them plenty of room to spread.) Large, lush leaves, insignificant flowers, can be slow to get started, but fast growth, often to 7’ in first year.Malosma laurina, Laurel Sumac, makes a fast growing screen in full sun, but it becomes a very wide shrub over time. Frost sensitive, but excellent on large tracts of land near a citrus growing area which indicates there will be little frost.If there’s a snag or ugly wall to scramble up, Calystegia purpurata, Purplish Morning Glory is useful. Stress deciduous, technically, but the author’s remains green throughout the year. Has large green leaves with pale purple-white flowers most of the year, attracting pollinators. Covers at least 12 x 12’ in one season. East or north-facing; the authors’ does well, in nearly full sun, facing west, used to cover a palm stump and part of a stark block wall. Has taken shearing of too long vines well. Grew very quickly, still green in December.

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If a lower (5-8’) screen or hedge is acceptable, use Salvia mellifera, Black Sage, in sun or some shade.Add one of the Ceanothus e.g. ‘Celestial Blue’ or ‘Concha’ for a 4-6’ blue spring accent. Add Cercis occidentalis, Redbud, as a multi-stemmed shrub, if one deciduous plant would not be a problem. Shade and nurture the redbud until well established, but redbuds have been easy to establish - with a little care - in the Ojai Valley. Grow redbud from a native plant nursery as a multi-stemmed shrub, not as the tree usually sold by commercial nurseries. Ensure you are buying Western redbud, not the Eastern form - essential.Baccharis pilularis, Coyote brush, can be used in full sun as a 5-6’ (sometimes taller) screen or hedge or added to other hedging plants for quick fill. Good choice for edges or along fences on ranch type land – acting as a pioneer by attracting other native volunteers to grow in its shade. If something a little taller is required and full sun is a problem, add Rhus ovata, Sugar Bush to the Baccharis pilularis. Both will establish more quickly with support: extra water; mulch; shade cloth protection. Also check, especially on large tracts of rural land, if protection from rabbits, ground squirrels, deer etc. is required.Prunus ilicifolia, Holly-leafed Cherry is slow-growing, but a beautiful evergreen small tree and may be used as a screen or gentle hedge plant. 3’ in 18 months.Plants that can be grown in Sun OR Shade

Rhamnus californica, Coffeeberry

3 x 6’ – CoffeeberryAll the Rhamnus californica, Coffeeberries, handle sun or shade well. There are several different heights to choose from or use a mix for a dense, dark evergreen mass effect.Author grows a variety. Slow growing.

A dense, green, quietly attractive plant. Slow growth and not showy. ‘Tranquil’ has the most ‘formal garden’ appearance of the choices.Give a little extra water, especially in the winter.Author believes they grow best at the edge of shade from oaks.

Author used to think these tolerated full sun, but in 2016, hottest days 115 degrees F, the plants in full sun suffered seriously burned leaves, unattractive, but plant is still alive. Plants in a little shade did better.

Salvia mellifera, Black sage

4-5 x 4-5’ Reliably green through the year. All sages tend to lose larger leaves in mid-summer and replace them with small leaves.

Also, low growing, ‘repens’ and ‘Terra Seca’ Will handle more shade than most other sages.

Part Shade / dappled shade (especially under oaks).

A scrub oak grown at the canopy edge of an established oak is a legacy planting in a medium sized yard. They are extremely slow. Plant in the shade of a pioneer plant. If there is enough room for a mature tree eventually, plant a Quercus agrifolia, Coast Live Oak or protect a volunteer or sapling near the edge of canopy.Rhamnus californica, CoffeeberryAuthor grows a variety.

3 x 6’ – Coffeeberry All the Rhamnus californica, Coffeeberries, handle sun or shade well. There are several different heights to choose from or use a mix for a dense, dark evergreen mass effect.

Coffeeberries work well at the edge of oaks, plant a group, a mix of the smaller types, although all are slow enough and can eventually be pruned to look better if necessary

Part shade seems to be the best position for Coffeeberries although they will work in full shade or sun.Slow growing.

Mahonia nevinii, Nevin’s barberry, a favorite plant of the author.

Slowly becomes a 4-5 x 4-5’ shrub, very thorny, so be careful of placement, Ever grey green. Author’s receive no summer water.An endangered species, endemic to CA.

Yellow flower display in spring, followed by yellow-orange berries late spring. Author’s two plants had flowers and berries at eight months after planting from a one gallon pot.

Mostly shade. In early August, mockingbirds will jump up from the ground under the shrub to eat the berries. Blue birds too.

Ceanothus spp.CA lilacs

‘Joyce Coulter’ works particularly well as it is large yet low enough to make a strong statement even with a mature oak.

Used this way by designers to create a landscaped ‘look’ while also restoring an oak woodland.

All the CA lilacs and some others do well at the edges of an oak canopy in a little shade.

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At the outer, sunnier dripline of oaks, still with a little shade, especially midday.

Heteromeles arbutifolia, Toyon

Toyons are classic with oaks. Red berries in the fall are lovely and eaten by birds.

Plant at the dripline with some midday shade. That seems to be an idea spot for a Toyon.

The more sun, the faster growth, but full sun will burn some leaves.

Arctostaphylos spp. ManzanitasManzanitas are classic in the part shade of oaks, but the author has had limited success in the OV area.

Use ‘Dr. Hurd’ if there is a gap in the canopy with some sun between oaks. It will become a 12-15’ small evergreen tree with red bark. About the fastest growing manzanita at 3-4’ in three years from a one gallon plant. White flowers. ‘Howard McMinn’ will become an 8-10’ small tree with pink spring flowers.

Most manzanitas do best in some shade in the hottest part of the day, the dappled shade of oaks is ideal. Choose one of the green-leaved larger spp. so that the plant shows up against the brown oak leaves. As the plant matures, lower limbs can be pruned on ‘Dr. Hurd’ and ‘Howard McMinn’ to display the red bark.

The author only grows the larger Manzanitas in dappled or light shade. Needs some sun, but leaves will burn in the hottest midsummer sun. Manzanitas grow slowly, but are classic with oaks and reliable and attractive once established.

At the outermost edge of oaks with sun most of the day (with shade protection during establishment phase):

Cercis occidentalis, Redbud (west coast)

(C. orientalis, the eastern form is not a CA native, but often for sale in CA.)

The 8 x 8’ multi-stemmed, deciduous shrub is seen in natural hedgerows and makes a stunning magenta statement in early spring. Buy this in a one gallon pot from a CA native nursery and let it grow with multiple trunks.Modest growth rate, not fast. Deciduous, so bare sticks in the winter.

A redbud grown from a one gallon pot will usually make a multi-stemmed shrub (as opposed to the tree type usually found at nurseries) with magenta flowers in spring.Flowers before leaves. Deciduous, but holds onto large leaves most of year. If the winter passes with no frost, there may be no flowers. Just wait another year.

Dry slopes, grows in full sun too. At the far edge of oaks, the shrub form can make a striking display in early spring. Give it a little extra water. Tolerates clay. Establish with a shade tent, but has been much easier than expected in author’s yard even when plant in pot was only four leaves.

Full shade of oaks or other deep shade:

Do not plant or place anything except oak leaves within 10’ of the trunk of an oak.

If existing oaks have long standing rocks or non-native plants in the first 12’ from the trunk, assess carefully before removing them; the oak may have established with these in place and more damage may be done by removal than by leaving them in situ. Ask an arborist for best advice on specific situations with oaks or other native trees.

Ribes viburnifolium, Catalina PerfumeNeeds full shade.

2 x 8’ slowly spreading, very attractive evergreen, low growing, plant with arching canes. Deep green leaves on red canes. Slow, may be three years before it shows a real growth spurt, but excellent appearance.

Plant 2-3 in one area, about 8’ apart for best long term effect. (Ribes usually signifies the plant is a currant or gooseberry, but this Ribes looks and behaves nothing like a currant or gooseberry.) Very garden worthy in deep shade.

Will die back or show brown spots where sun hits the leaves. Even morning sun. Deep shade only.

Rhamnus crocea ilicifolia, Redberry

3-9’ tends to sprawl, but easily encouraged more upright – or enjoy the sprawl if planting on a hillside which is viewed from below. Much harder to establish during spring/summer than if planted in the fall.

Red berries in fall. Ilicifolia is the larger spp. A little slower in full shade but looks attractive all the time. Trouble free. Berries only after a few years. Occasionally can look dead (not technically deciduous) but author’s has grown new fall shoots from a dead-appearing stem.

Handles a little sun too, but does best in dappled to deeper shade. Faster in a little sun, but not as dense or glossy-leaved as in shade. Occasionally difficult to establish.

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Plants for large tracts of bare ground in full sun

Grow your own shade in the south west or more central part of any bare area with a group of the following larger plants . After a year or two, on the north side of this grouping where there will be some shade during the day, a more decorative planting can be designed and installed.

Malosma laurina, Laurel sumac

A large plant, think at least 12 x 12’ for planning purposes. Evergreen.

Good looking plant if given enough room. Easy to establish, then drought tolerant.

Technically not frost tolerant, but if there are citrus nearby or planted in groups, it is likely most will survive.

Baccharis pilularis consanguinea,Coyote BrushAlso low growing cultivars – plant a mix of these for mounding ground cover or bank stabilization.

Height variable, usually 5 x 4’ in a year or two, may get 2-3’ taller and wider. Evergreen – a medium, bright green. Mass a few in a bare spot at 8’ centers for green fill. Creates conditions under which other plants may grow.

Buy Baccharis pilularis consanguinea or there will not be as much seed set or ‘recruitment’ meaning new plants occurring naturally (also known as volunteers). May have exposed lower branches over time.

Tolerates barren, dry land, clay, and heat. Needs a little water to become established. Important as a late ‘flowering’ plant for pollinators in fall when little else is available.

Eriogonum fasciculatum foliosumCalifornia Buckwheat

3 x 6’ spread. White flowers, turning to rust over time, mostly green foliage. Attractive when massed and useful if a lower height is preferred.

Mini-wildlife plant, especially butterflies.Reliable, even attractive, especially at a distance.

One of the most drought tolerant plants. Sun, handles sand or clay. Tolerates a little shade.

Sambucus mexicana, Mexican elderberry or Blue elderberry.

Also known as Tapiro. To 12 x 12’ at least, much larger over time. Deciduous. Fast growing, rangy appearance. Survives drought after 5 years+

Yellow flowers in late Spring, followed by purple berries in fall. Deciduous. A major wildlife plant.

Full sun to part shade, extra water, given deeply, especially during the winter months. Drought tolerant in 5+years.

Rhus ovata, Sugar Bush – a favorite plant of the author’s for its lush look, fast growth after a slow start, and extreme drought tolerance.

7-10 x 7-10’. May make a very slow start, taking several months, but once growth starts it is fast - 5-7’ in 18 months is usual. May be purchased as a very small plant, just 3-4 leaves, acceptable if well rooted, plant with care: gopher cage, shade tent until weather changes or plant is partly established and about 3’ tall.

Evergreen. Incredibly drought tolerant after a short establishment phase. Lush, large, taco folded, dark green leaves all year. Allow space for full size spread. Reddish stems. Specimen plant or plant in center or back of large area and ‘design’ from it. Looks good in groups at 10-12’ centers. Insignificant flowers. Always dark green, reliable with good drainage.

Inhospitable land, good drainage, full sun. Will not grow in shade. Needs some water to get established; water with care. After establishment, may go for months without water, even in times of very low natural rainfall.Takes reflected sun. Can be pruned.

Low growing, larger type, spreading plants

Key Point:Different greens can be color spots.

Characteristics Requirements

Baccharis pilularis consanguinea,Coyote Brush,lower growing cultivars e.g. ‘Pigeon Point’, ‘Twin Peaks’,’ Pozo Surf’.

Height variable 2-4’ x spread, ‘Pozo Surf’ is tallest, but with least spread at 3’ x 4-5’ and the most garden-worthy; can be used to edge a path. Allow enough room to spread, because pruning can result in an edge bare of low green. Dark green.

Evergreen, spreading, reliable, easy to establish. ‘Pigeon Point’ and ‘Twin Peaks’ are lighter green, with smaller leaves, wider spread (up to 10’) good for banks, but take a year or two to start filling out. ‘Pigeon Point’ is recommended for bank stabilization.

Tolerates barren, dry land, clay, and heat. Needs a little water to establish. Important as a late ‘flowering’ plant for pollinators in fall when little else is available.

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Low growing, larger type, spreading plants cont’d. Different greens can be color spots. RequirementsSalvia mellifera, repens, Black SageCultivar ‘Terra Seca’

2 x 4’+ Low growing ‘repens’ or ‘Terra Seca’. Useful low growing, green sage.

Leave room for it to spread to maximum size as it looks best when not pruned. Sun or (preferably) some shade.

Sun, light shade, dry slopes. Water a little for best appearance. OK to plant in gravel, sand, loam or clay.

Ribes viburnifolium, Catalina PerfumeUnrivaled for appearance, but very slow. Deep shade only.

2 x 8’ slowly spreading, very attractive evergreen, low growing, plant with arching canes. Deep green leaves on red canes. Slow, may be three years before it shows a real growth spurt.

Plant 2-3 in one area, about 8’ apart for best long term effect. (Ribes usually signifies the plant is a currant or gooseberry, but this Ribes looks and behaves nothing like a currant or gooseberry. Garden worthy.

Will die back or show brown spots where sun hits the leaves. Even morning sun. Deep shade only.

Rhamnus crocea ilicifolia, Redberry.

3-9’ tends to sprawl, but easily encouraged more upright – or enjoy the sprawl if planting on a hillside which is viewed from below.

Red berries in fall. Ilicifolia is the larger spp. A little slower in full shade but looks attractive all the time. Trouble free. Berries only after a few years.

Handles a little sun too, but does best in dappled to deeper shade. Faster in a little sun, but not as dense or glossy-leaved as in shade.

Ceanothus ‘Joyce Coulter’, Creeping Mountain Lilac(form is more ‘mounding/arching than ‘creeping’)

2-5 x 12’. Significant, even specimen plant, but generally lower growing.If taller branches are unwanted, prune them lower. Canes may be ‘trained’ in general direction preferred with use of large, garden staples.

Blue flowers from March for eight weeks, a longer season than many Ceanothus.Mountain lilacs have smaller leaves than other Ceanothus spp. and tend to be less preferred by browsing deer… (this does not mean ‘deer proof’).

Special use is to stabilize a bank.

Considered a reliable, drought resistant plant with a long life if not overwatered.

Resources: Author’s current primary source for plants is: Manzanita Nursery in Solvang. www.Manzanitanursery.comGopher CagesBest type of gopher cages are flat pack with heavier, tighter mesh, stocked by: Green Thumb and Green’s nursery in Oak View. Two inches of cage should show above ground. Expand and shape them before planting day. Dig holes only large enough to accommodate the gopher cage being used, not larger. Plant with care to avoid air pockets, a cause of plant loss in the early weeks of establishment.

Author’s volunteer work for Ojai Valley Land Conservancy: http://ovlc.org/planting-watering-guide-for-california-native-plants

WATERING NATIVE PLANTSBy Mike EvansCopyright, Tree of Life Nursery, 2016.http://Californianativeplants.com

Ojai Valley Land Conservancyhas a micro-nursery on the Ojai Meadows Preserve, Besant Road. Ron Singer is the manager.Two plant sales a year, April and October. No Ceanothus or Manzanita.www.matilijanursery.com ‘Bob’. Rural part of Moorpark. No manzanita.

Need to learn more about native plants:www.laspilitas.comIf it’s CA native plant related, search on any key word, e.g. mulch, birdbaths, pollinators, deer, fire, etc. Bert Wilson will have written about it from his decades of experience with his family micro-nursery on difficult terrain near Atascadero. This was author’s primary nursery when they had a branch near San Diego. Now plants are shipped in bags from Santa Margarita nursery site, overnight via UPS. Not recommended for those new to natives, but will usually have the unusual plant desired and recommended as expertise develops!

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Sourcing Plants:If the name of the plant is known:Find the plant at :www.SanMarcosGrowers.com – a wholesale only nursery -order the plant from:

Green Thumb, Ventura, andFlora Gardens, Baldwin Road, Ojai,are retail outlets for San Marcos Growers. Stipulate one gallon plants when ordering.

Many CA Native Plants can be sourced this way.

Browse at: Flora Gardens, Baldwin Road, Ojai Small, variable selection of the more ‘garden worthy’ common natives.

www.Manzanitanursery.com- highly recommended for a visit and a wonderful learning experience once a little experience has been gained...

In Solvang, but the author picks up plants there several times a year – contact for next trip. Or take a day out and visit – best to check days when open. 1.5 hour journey, approx.High quality plants, grown in harsh conditions.

The availability list at the website of a small nursery is rarely up to date. Email Ron Griffin (see website) for availability. He makes good suggestions (as does Nick, Asst. Manager) and they know plants well, also growing them in difficult conditions.

www.Matilijanursery.comMicro nursery in rural Moorpark area

Knowledgeable grower with limited selection. Email for availability before you visit – check hours.

The availability list at the website of a small nursery is rarely up to date. Bob is a grower for the Ojai Valley Land Conservancy.

If a plant recommendation is needed for a specific area or problem:In the Search box for plants, type in the issue e.g. shade, hedge, sand, clay, tall, groundcover at www.laspilitas.com

Browse the suggestions, look at the pictures and videos at Bert Wilson’s extensive website.

Las Pilitas Nursery, Santa Margarita, CAA micro nursery, SE of Atascadero, hard to find, with limited opening hours.Plants are small, grown hard, but this nursery is much loved by experienced native growers.Run by Bert Wilson’s widow and daughter, both are botanists.

They ship plants in bags – only buy this way when an experienced grower of CA native plants. Plant from the bag quickly after arrival, potting up not recommended. Shipping is two day UPS, expensive, but sometimes Las Pilitas is the only source for that special plant you must have…

Other:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/ Integrated Pest Management program – detailed, helpful

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Design and plant for success - for CA native plants in the Ojai Valley in drought conditions:

1. Determine amount of space at location, rate of drainage, in sun or shade? Seasonal changes alter amount of sun the plant will receive.

2. Think in terms of companions, ‘rooms,’ small groups, different heights – or the spacing and placement of ‘hedge’ plants. A small group (2-3) of compatible plants is the best strategy for appearance and rate of establishment. Can you add to any CA native already in place?

3. If planting a large specimen plant in a prominent, visible spot in the garden, consider adding at least one pioneer (Black sage or Coyote brush) for best appearance and support. Add a low growing version of the pioneer - allow enough room for full size - and it becomes instant landscaping with only three plants.

4. Shade support/tents/sun protection of some type will be required on even the most sun tolerant plant during the establishment phase, unless weather is exceptionally mild (below 80⁰F max.) However, plants must receive some full sun each day; morning sun is usually safest.

5. Plan to use a good quality gopher cage; if you plant and water, they will come…. Author believes they are cost effective = fewer losses.

6. In dry, inhospitable ground, dig the hole a day or more before you plant. Water a 2’ wide area; fill the hole with water two to three times, allowing time for drainage. You will be planting to encourage deep roots and the deeper the water soaks in the deeper the roots can grow.

7. Water the plant in its pot the day before you plant it.

8. It’s only too easy to leave air spaces when planting using a gopher cage; slip a slim trowel or fingers inside and outside gopher cage to tamp down the earth you are backfilling. Check and tamp again. (It’s wise to check again the next day too.) Roots cannot grow in air. Even experts leave air pockets. Check again. AIR SPACES LEFT DURING PLANTING KILL PLANTS AS ROOTS CANNOT GROW IN AIR.

9. ‘Drought tolerant’ has no scientific definition. And this would always mean ‘after establishment’ which may take 2-5 years for larger specimen plants or trees. In most of drought-stressed CA, look for plants that survive with little or no summer water (after first year) and provide additional water during the cooler months to supplement the lower rainfall now being experienced. Yes, water in winter.

10. For more detailed and additional growing hints, see the following sheets ‘Additional detail on strategies for success’.

11. Special note to Master Gardeners: California native plant growing is just another branch of expertise using different techniques.

12. Do share anything you find out during your growing experiences with CA natives in the Ojai Valley! junejuett@earthlink.net

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The minimum required for planting CA native plants is shown in pictures at:

http://ovlc.org/planting-watering-guide-for-california-native-plants

Additional detail on strategies for increasing success with CA native plants:

1. Have all supplies at hand before planting: Backfill soil – the amount needed is not provided by what is dug out; allow about one bag of garden soil, top soil or other unamended soil from a store per three plants. Or buy clean topsoil in bulk. Most new to planting underestimate the amount needed. Do no skimp on backfill (or making a berm on a slope or other inhospitable planting area).Shovel or spade for digging holes; slim trowel for removing air pockets (see below); gopher cages; water source; the plants (already watered in one gallon pots); immediate shade protection if planting in spring or summer (see pictures at end of document).

2. Avoid air pockets : While planting, push a slim trowel into the earth at the edge of the plant root ball, check for any ’give’ which will indicate there is an air pocket and fill the area. Check again. After watering, put your weight on a foot placed at the edge of the hole you just backfilled with plant and earth. Do this around the circumference of the plant. Most CA native like firm planting and this will reduce any air pockets. This is the ‘plant dance’ recommended by some professionals. Watering only removes micro air-pockets, it will not compensate for poor planting that has left air pockets. As the plant grows, check for air pockets if you see a plant not thriving; they can also be caused by hidden burrows and ants’ nests. If you used a gopher cage, ‘dance’ outside the mesh. Do not flatten the mesh ring above ground.

3. Berm : Make a 3” rim of soil 2-3’ diameter around the plant (a small berm). It will help water to drain within the area of the plant and not run off when you water. This is especially helpful when planting on a slope.

4. Add a rock : Pick up a rock, one a person can carry easily; place it on the south side of the plant about 1’ away from the hole just dug. The area under the rock will dry out more slowly and create a small zone for the roots to find moisture when conditions are dry. Over time the plant will grow over the rock or the rock can be removed.

5. Mulch : CA native landscaping professionals use 3-4” deep mulch around a newly planted area. Oak leaves are recommended for use in an oak woodland area; do not remove leaves from up to the dripline of any oak. Redwood bark is generally considered to be the most compatiblemulch available for CA native plants, but it is costly, although longer-lived. If oak clippings/chips are available from arborists, these are appropriate. Heavy cardboard is unsightly, but it can act as mulch.If you are planting a desert plant/garden in a hot area, use a rock, gravel or boulder mulch or a mix of these.

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Large stores e.g. Lowe’s sell bagged Shredded Cedar Bark. This works well and is easier to transport without a truck. About $4 per bag. Ojai Valley Organics, Old Baldwin Road, Ojai, sells ‘fines’ relatively inexpensively, but this must be loaded (and unloaded from) a truck bed. Tel: 805 857 4153 -F 7:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Sat: 7:30 a.m. – 12.30 p.m.

Avoid using anything containing plastic or rubber, composted material,animal waste or material containing weed seeds, fertilizers, or herbicides.

For a full discussion on types of mulch for natives: http://www.laspilitas.com/planting.htm

6. Weeds : Keep the area around your CA native plants free of weeds. Hand pull them when they first sprout and discard them. Appropriate mulching helps with weed control. It usually takes about three years of dedicated weed control before an area is free of weeds.

7. Protection : Cats; dogs; foxes; deer; rabbits; gophers; moles; possums; raccoons; ants; hens; goats; children; bikes, even birds etc. All of these and more may be dangerous to your newly planted CA natives. A tomato cage can make a deterrent against simple carelessness, reminding people that a new plant is in the area, but it will not protect against most of the above. Even a small cat will walk through a new plant or take a nap directly on your plant. A small hen can do real damage to new shoots. Goats are voracious eaters. Young deer will taste any plant and pull up newly planted ones by the roots as they sample. Take action as you plant, wrap the tomato cage in chicken wire now if you fear any of the above; two hours later may be too late. Any plant that looks less healthy than on a previous day should be investigated carefully: check for damage of any sort, such as an ants’ nest deep in the roots, air pockets – common, even after expert planting, herbivory, a burrow hidden under the mulch draining water away from the plant, not enough shade for a new plant, mulch too thin or disturbed.

8. Heat : Even a CA native plant labeled ‘full sun’ is unlikely to survive full sun in the first years of planting. An inexpensive tomato cage part shaded with cloth, 40% shade cloth, a thin towel etc. secured on the south side and on top of the cage with bulldog clips or similar will provide relief during the hottest days of the year. A piece approximately 3 x 3’ is usually the right size. Cover from ground level to over the top of the plant on the S and SW side. Allow morning sun to enter the area. Large tomato cages can be cut in two for use with two smaller plants. You may need to repeat the shade the following summer for slower growing plants that are not yet leafy or well established. Also see below for sun protection.

9. Consider planting a pioneer for shade and mycorrhizal support : Plant a few large, faster growing pioneer plants first in a new area; in a few months’ time, they will provide shade and mycorrhizal support for any smaller plants or specimen plants you wish to insert into the design. They also provide quick fill in a hedge or border and attract pollinators. When planting a CA native with slow growth or one that is especially important in some way, plant a pioneer plant about 2’ away on the south side of the special plant. Pioneer species are Sagebrush (Artemisia spp.), Coyote Brush (Baccharis spp.), Deerweed (Lotus spp.) and Buckwheat (Eriogonum spp.) and are easier to establish, with faster growth, and create the conditions under which other plants may thrive. Some pioneers die away over a few years as the main plants become established. In natural areas, larger plants such as oaks and manzanita are commonly found starting under the shade and protection of pioneer plants. The author finds that planting pioneers plants in hot, degraded areas of land increases the success rate of the specimen, hedge and other plants being used.

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The following guide is available on the Ojai Valley Land Conservancy website and was approved by the Nursery Manager, Ron Singer.Drought conditions are found in the center colored column . The guide gives minimum amounts for establishment. Some professionals advise much more. Water in the morning, soaking 18” deep, around an 18”diameter. Water slowly and deeply. Do not let water form pools or trickle away from the plant. Check with the water authority for restrictions on the use of water.START HERE:1.Find current weather conditions in the columns on the right →

Standard watering frequency applies during normal spring conditions e.g.- mid-range temperatures- no rainfall expected- some cloudy days- plant is in shade most of the day- the plant is found naturally in the Ojai Valley

Increase watering frequency for high summer temperatures or special conditions e.g. DROUGHT- a container- grown plant- direct sun most of the day- unusually high temperatures, wind, reflected sun from a wall- unusually dry, sandy or fast draining soil- south facing slopes- unusually dry weather- if the plant originates from an area with wetter or cooler conditions

We are in drought. Water in winter, even established plants, at least every month unless significant rainfall is received – this is very unlikely.

(Decrease watering frequency for unusually mild conditions or wet conditions e.g.- significant rainfall, fog drip, cloudy days- unusually damp or slow draining land- irrigated land close by- if the plant originates from an area with drier conditions e.g. desert)

2.Find your plant’s current status in the rows below ↓3. Find where 1 (weather) and 2 (plant status) intersect on the grid below to learn how best to establish most CA native plants:Plant is in a gallon pot, outdoors, in some shade

Lift pot twice weekly and water when the pot feels light i.e. the soil is dry. Water slowly and thoroughly. Lift pot, feel the weight when wet. Leave pot where it can drain freely

Lift the pot 3-4 times a week. When the pot feels light i.e. the soil has dried out, fill pot with water and leave to drain freely

Check at least weekly; if pot feels heavy, do not water; if it feels light, fill pot with water and leave to drain freely

Before or at planting time (see planting notes)

Fill planting hole with water and allow water to drain at least once. Note how fast the water drains; this will inform future watering frequency

Fill planting hole with water at least twice and allow water to drain completely after each filling. Note rate of drainage

If soil is fully damp or wet, just plant. Otherwise, fill planting hole with water and allow water to drain

Immediately after planting

4 gallons minimum, slowly.Stop when water starts to pool or run off area. Restart when drained

4-8 gallons, slowly.Goal is to soak an 18” diameter area around plant x 18” deep.

2 gallons slowly unless land is wet

Two gallons = sixteen pints = most larger watering cans or standard buckets/ pailsFirst 1-4 weeks 2-4 gallons, slowly, twice a week unless

soil feels moistCheck soil 3 times a week; if dry two inches down, water 2-4 gals.

2 gallons, slowly, once a week unless soil feels moist

Months 2-8 (first summer)

2-4 gallons, slowly, twice a month Check weekly; if soil is dry two inches down, water 2-4 gallons, slowly

If plant appears to be thriving, reduce water slowly to 2 gallons once a month

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Toward end of first year

Reduce water to approximately 2-4 gallons once a month by end of first year after planting

Check every other week; if dry two inches down, water 2-4 gallons, slowly

Reduce water to approx. once a month or less by end of first year after planting

Many smaller plants will establish in 4-8 months. Some large plants establish surprisingly quickly, e.g. Rhus ovata, Sugar Bush. Learn about the plants in order to provide appropriate care. Some large plants may take 1-5 years to establish.

In drought years, give not-yet-established plants additional water at least monthly throughout any rainy or cool fall, winter or spring months to increase ‘rainfall’. Most natives dislike hot and wet, avoid summer watering if at all possible.

Second year after planting

Gradually reduce water until plant is thriving without supplemental water, under normal weather conditions (not drought)

Under harsh or drought conditions, do give water liberally throughout any rainy or cool months. Most natives will prefer no summer watering.

Under normal Ojai Valley weather conditions (not drought) plant should survive without supplemental water

Water only in the cool of mornings, after a cool night. If drainage is good i.e. water does not pool around the plant and the area dries out between watering, it is difficult to overwater most first year CA native plants - if watering in hot weather is avoided. Establishment of a CA native may take more water than above and more than one year. Large or slow-growing plants tend to take more time to become fully established.

The plant is still not thriving? If the plant is not thriving, push on the soil around the plant to ensure there are no air pockets, check for burrows around roots. Check again, air pockets are easy to miss, especially just inside or just outside a gopher cage, but roots cannot grow in air and water will leak down burrows and away from roots. Fill any holes, tamping soil down firmly. . Insects and disease are not the first causes to consider when a plant is not thriving, but an ant’s nest may be hidden deep in the roots or under the rock and will cause plants to fail. Eradicate/ relocate the nest mechanically (no pesticides), fill the air pockets with soil. Tamp down the soil. Water. You may have saved your plant!

Plants labeled ‘full sun’ may not tolerate full sun until growth is established.If planting in spring, most plants will benefit from a shade structure erected before burned leaf edges or curled leaves signal heat stress from the summer sun.

Make a simple structure to shade the plant from the sun:The picture shows one type of shade provision, using tomato cages, cloth and bulldog clips to protect newly planted CA native plants from the sun. A tomato cage with a thin towel, old tee shirt or a 3’x3’ piece of 40% ‘shade cloth’ secured to it with bulldog clips or similar on the SW side and over the top will protect the plant (tips to base of stem) from full sun until weather conditions change or the plant matures.Do not use plastic sheeting for shading.Ensure the plant gets some morning sun.Use mulch at least a 3’ circle around each plant.Place a small rock on the S / SW side of the plant.The plant without a shade tent is a ‘pioneer,’ a Coyote Brush.

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