8/14/2019 Islands Magazine Hawaii Lanai Photography

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J 2009 islands.com

Travel Tales

lanai

Follow the Lht Or EleWith a photographer aboard, a trip to Lanai is like Mission: Impossible

B y D a v i D L a n s i n g

macduff everton, his unkempt hair flying in a stiff breeze, guns the jeep out

of the ret-cr ot l Cty, gorg the pee bump, whee queg

pu oto rrow, two-e l aveue. Wht hou we o firt? hout the motte-

fce photogrpher we p gerouy coe to tte pgte gr zgzggg o ruty

bke. i thk we hou check to our hote, mybe hve ome ort of tropc cockt, i

ugget. Mcuff hoot me w ook. The ght, the ght! he crem. look t the ght!

i hte trvelg wth photog-

rphers. Theyre lwys scremgabout the ght, the ght! ke Tattoooucg the rrvl of de ple,e pane! on Fantasy Island. He, i athe ame thng to Macuff two hourgo over rk the Hoouu r-port we were wtg for our co-ectg flght to l.

i epe photographer, whati . He took gup of h whkeyd repled, Theyre ll rght

wy fct, im very goo frewth few of them. Pss the tme of

dy whe we meet d ll tht. Butyoure rght, they can be a pan ome-tme; there o eyg t.

He a th a f he werent takngabout hmef, whch he wa, of coure,becue he is photogrpher.

Ths occurs to me s our Jeep,whch ive foohy aowe Macuffto drve, zooms pst our dgs. Fromthe quck gmpe im ccore, i ee tht the Four seoReort lana, The loge at Koee ook rega an nvtng nthe lte-fteroo lght, just s t dd the brochure theyent me the ort of pace where one cou t peacefuy n

a wcker char on the verana an, a the copy rea, reax atthe en of the ay wth a lava Fow or a shp Wreck cockta.it bee og y, im thkg how ovey t wou beto rown myef n a shp Wreck or two, but t a moot ponts our Jeep goes rbore over slght rse the rod, dthe hote, wth t 10-foot-t mur of peppe over theetry, vhe beh row of wyg pe tree.

You me the turoff, i y.

Mcuff tre t the mp o

hs lp whle steerg wth hsthghs. The Jeep veers off thehghwy oto the re cerhouer. Rock fly. The cr fih-t. Three or four w turkey,

whch h bee pecefuy peck-g t sects log the sde ofthe rod few mutes go, hurlthemselves recklessly to thethck udergrowth, terrorzedbeyod belef. Mcduff mutters obcety t the fleeg br,hove the mp betwee h eg,

jerks the cr bck oto the rodd the looks t me wth compctou me, gorg ourbruh wth cmty.

i rea there were petrogyphover here, he hout, tabbng atthe flppg mp wth stubbyfiger of hs s the Jeep teetersbck d forth o two wheels.imge petrogyph!

i grb the mp out of hs lp.You rve, i te hm. i v-gte. There s fct symbol

o the mp for petrogyph ershpwreck Bech, t the e of

roa abee deep san, the very ame roa the renta cargecy stmped not accessble ch-hgh red letters

whe we pcke up the mp 10 mute go.look the roa coe, i ay a he turn off the pave-

met oto eepy rutte, y tr.Mcduff looks oyed. Oly to mere mortls. ive

o p h Hw- l L, hh cv h lh isLandsphph cp hlk h .

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rven Jeep on tr ony onkeycou muter, he y, trtng off onone of h borng venture torebout ome trp to Yuctn or Tong orsomeplce, where he nvgte four-

whee-rve vehce cro pontoonbrge bult from coconuts.Why o you wnt to hoot petro-

gyph nywy? i k. int t jutncent grffit left by bore teengertre of huntng for wl pgs?

Cuture! hout Mcuff. Wereookng for cuture, rght? a front

wheel snks nto gully n the ro, nthe bottom of the cr crpe omethnghr. Theres thack! s somethng flesoff n strkes the unercrrge of theJeep, ll of whch Mcuff gnores.

i ont bother pontng t out to wlMcduff. He got h mnd et on findngpetroglyph nd culture n the hour

of ght we hveeft. so we bumpn grn our wyong the nnorthet cotuntl the rod end

t n o fihermn hut where fegn on efle tree y, dnger: Be

awre of the Vsyn M dog.There your cuture, rght there,

Mcuff sys, pontng t the sgn.Tre wn rorng own theKoh Chnne between here nMook how ong the bech. apny tree, trppe of veget-ton, lens lke runk wy from theocen. Wve roll cro ruty World-Wr-ii-er lberty hp wrecke onthe reef jut offhore (thu the nme,shpwreck Bech). a tr e up bumpy h through crubby guepockmrked wth lrge volcnc rock.somewhere up here, uppoey, re

the petroglyph. Mcduff nd i trudgethrough prckly vegetton n flp-flopfor hlf n hour n the dmnhng lght the wnd lm u round, erchngfor the euve ncent mrkng, but

we fin ony beche nm bone,curryng gecko n nervou chu-kr or two, whch, when trte, run

through the buhe lke chldren hdngfrom bogeymen. Our erch for petro-glyph frutle. a drkne fll, webounce ke pnb n the Jeep ownthe whe-out ro, hee for the

comfort of the loge n fferentort of shp Wreck, th one drnkble.

isLanDs.cOm/trveltle

read More Lansing

see eVertons WorK

find arCHiVed taLes

But not too mny, Mcuff te me.Our quet for the perfect mornnglght begns t wn.

DaviD Lansing recently returned from aphotographer-free trip to Oahu, where he wason assignment forislands.