Islamic Cairo

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Islamic Cairo In Ramadan

A Space full of Beginnings and no End

Taher ElBarbary

Cairo visitors, either natives or foreigners, may have the same feelings of

bewilderment every time they try to go through the streets of Islamic Cairo on foot.

Just let your instincts lead you, particularly if you are deciding to have a package tour

on one of Ramadan days. Of course the choices are many; however the authority of

the occasion directs you wholeheartedly to Islamic Cairo. Your religious beliefs are

entirely of no real significance, since you are now willing to be a victim of an

accumulation of histories; the heritage of human race during different eras. Muslim or

not or how to start won't be the problem. The very problem is how to absorb the

places, the buildings, the historic complexes and the variability of visions and the

sights which your eyes would catch.

With El Mui'z Li Din Allah Street, the starting point would be very appropriate

start point. It is named after the Fatimid Caliph who conquered Cairo in 969 AD. You

may enter this street through Bab Zuweila in the south and exit through Bab ElFutuh

in the north. It's not fair to notice the narrowness of this street if compared to the more

modern avenues, though it includes Cairo's greatest live museums of Islamic and

medieval monuments. You can call it an open-air museum. Bab Zuweila the

entrance of El Mui'z Street was the southern gate of Fatimid Cairo. It wasn't built

until the Mamluk Period, in the 11th century. The Caliph used to watch the annual

pilgrimage caravan going to Mecca from there. The same gate was notorious as the

site for public execution. The criminals were hung from the gate's walls. It was named

after the tribe that was inhabited nearby. Bab Zuweila was also called Bab

AlMutawali (the Responsible) and AlMutawali was responsible for communicating

the problems of the people to the Caliph. The Mosque of Sultan Mu'ayyad is next to

Bab Zuweila. You can climb the minaret of the mosque through a door in the prayer

hall and have an excellent view of Islamic Cairo from above.

It's of course an area full of beginnings and no end. If you are a foreigner, the

clothes you are wearing should appropriate in the mosques. The religious traditions,

though are not so rigid, but must be taken into consideration. On any Ramadan day,

all the mosques of the area are crowded with people from all the Egyptian regions and

Arab countries. Ramadan as a religious month is a month full of rituals and

ceremonies. It's the month of fasting. Muslims all over the world consider it a sacredmonth, that's to say, it's called (ElShahr ElHaram) or as mentioned before the Sacred

Month.

Half an hour after sunset on one of Ramadan days, the whole area is full of life

again after the short quietude of the breakfast (Iftar). The Iftar there in one of the

Restaurants beside Sayedna AlHussien Mosque is very special. Of course, there are so

many restaurants. Your budget doesn't matter there; for you can spend much if you are

going to invade the classy Egyptian kitchen, on the other hand you can feel

satisfaction with some fool and Falafel from Mahmoud restaurant for popular meals.

You will pay nothing in case of having your Iftar on one of God's Banquets (Mawaed

AlRahman breakfast meals which the rich offers to the visitors of the area weather

rich or poor).


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I think it's impossible to resist the idea of going round the area; even if you

might have visited it several times before. There is always something new. I don't

mean some new building or some new shop. The very thing I mean is that, the

lineaments of the place are always new to your eyes though they are deeply rooted in

time.

Every time I always proceed into this Islamic district, I've a different point to

start. From Port Said Street until it intersects with AlAzhar Street, we are taken to the

East. First we will pass the carpet market and then Mosques Madrassa of al Ghouri

and then his Mausoleum. Both sites are worth a visit. They represent a beautiful

complex and reminder of the Mamluk era of Egypt. This area is named after Qansuh

al-Ghuri who was one of the most famous Mamluk Sultans. It's funny to know that he

was a very energetic sultan who was still playing polo in his 70s. AlGhouri was a

great builder and he loved flowers and music, wrote poetry and was attracted to Sufis

and other pious men of his time. But it was AlGhouri, too, who turned the rule over to

the Ottomans with his defeat in Syria. The Wikala of AlGhouri, which was built in

1504 A.D. by Sultan Qunsuwah AlGhouri, late during the reign of Mamelukes.Wakalat alGhouri was originally designed as an inn for accommodating traders

coming from all parts of the world as well as a market place for trading goods and a

venue for making trade deals; because before the discovery of the Route of Good

Hope, Egypt had been the hub of overland trade caravans from east and west. The

external stone facade is impressive, with its uniformity of windows. There are a few

small windows on the first floor, but the upper stories of the building have three rows

of groupings of three windows of varying design. The last row is covered by

mashrabiya panels, each panel being three windows wide. The entrance to the

courtyard is via a great door mounted in a trilobite arch. Inside, the building is very

regular, with the exception of the first floor, which has wide arcades intersected by a

gallery. The building is made up of four floors, each comprising 28 rooms with domedceilings, overlooking a rectangular-shaped courtyard with a mosaic fountain in the

middle. As such, Wakalat alGhouri still stands out as one of the loftiest and most time-

enduring Islamic monuments remaining. It rightly reflects an apex of harmony and

symmetry in terms of both Islamic architecture and practical functionality.

It's really a journey that mixes joy with history. You can't help stopping every

few steps to fix your eyes in astonishment on one of the buildings and feel entirely

eager to read the whole episode concerning this complex or the other. And every now

and then, you will do nothing but stop in front of one of the many bazaars selling

souvenirs verdant of the small and the details of the places you see.

AlAzhar Mosque will be arrived at after skirting the Khan and continuing onal-Azhar street, past the Mosque of Abu Dahab, which currently houses students of

the al-Azhar Mosque University. This mosque is one of Cairo's oldest mosques, but

perhaps more importantly; it's the world's oldest university. The street which runs

along the side of the al-Azhar Mosque is Shari Atfa el-Azhari and at the end of this

street is Beit Zeinab Khatun, built in 1468 and refurbished in 1713. The first floor

reflects the style of the Mamluks era while the second is Ottoman. Opposite the

house is the El-Ayni Mosque, and beyond that are two old houses at the end of Shari

Atfa el-Ayni. They are the Beit al-Harrawi, built in the 1700's and close by is Beit Sitt

Wassila.

AlAzhar Mosque is located in ElHussien Square. It was founded in 972,

shortly after the founding of Cairo itself. It was built on the orders of Caliph Muezz Li

Din Allah. It was called AlAzhar after Fatema Al Zahraa, daughter of the Prophet
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Mohamad (Peace and Prayers Be Upon Him). It imitated both the Amr Ibn AlAs and

Ibn Toloun mosques. Today the university built around the Mosque is the most

prestigious of Muslim schools, and its students are highly esteemed for their

traditional training. While ten thousand students once studied here, today the

university classes are conducted in adjacent buildings and the Mosque is reserved for

prayer. In addition to the religious studies, modern schools of medicine, science andforeign languages have also been added.

Behind the Azhar Mosque, in Darb EL-Ahmar area, you will pass by Biet El-

Harrawi which is situated between two narrow Alleys (Harra), Harat Al Madrasa and

Zuqaq Al Ayini. Several other Islamic houses and monuments are found in the Darb

El-Ahmar surroundings. The house has a common wall with Sitt (Lady) Wasila house.

It is adjacent to the house of Zeinab Khatoun, and to the Ghannamiah Hall. Also at a

near distance is Al-Ayini Mosque. El-Harrawis main entrance is through Zuqaq al-

Qasr ally but its no longer used.In spite of its importance, the house has a relativelysmall street faade. The southern faade is especially remarkable because of its height

and a quite impressive large wooden Masshrabeyya indicating the presence of a(Qaa) Large Hall on the first floor. The secondary entrance used nowadays was a

later addition that dates back to the 19th century; it is located right next to Sitt Wasila

House.

As you enter through the southern door, a long corridor leads you into the

courtyard which is an open-air area controlling the entrance to all parts of the house.

What is noticeable is the absence of a secondary space or porch called "Maguaz",

which was one of the important Islamic design concepts used in order to conceal the

interior of the house and mainly the women living in it. This tradition became less

strict in the late 18th century. One of the main attractions of El-Harawi is the

"Mandara", a spacious sitting hall on the ground floor that occupies all the East wing

of the house. The "Mandara" served as Male-guests reception area, a space that isquiet common in Islamic Houses. A French architect, Bernard Maurey under the

supervision of the French Institute of Oriental Archeology has lately restored it. At the

moment it is been reused as a Cultural Center where different cultural events, lectures

musical gala and artistic expositions take place.

As I explained earlier, the problem is not where to start, or to which religious

beliefs you belong, the problem, by and large, is how to absorb the fragrance of

history that flows everywhere and all the time. Caf Zebdya (Misr AlMahroosa Caf)

is now a suitable place for some rest and a pot of tea with mint. There you will be

received by the pious smile of Haj Farag Zebdya. Just say hello and you will find him

coming directly (He himself the very owner of this historic caf) towards you: "Youseem to be a journalist, sir, or a man of letters". Then the tales of the area will pour

smoothly. In 1952, his late father distributed free sherbet to celebrate the outbreak of

1952 revolutions.

"I've never left this caf. Life changed, friends passed away but Sayedna

AlHussien Square will last forever. This space seems to be standing against the

horrible changes of time." Haj Farag Says while his devoted eyes seem to be straying

away as though he was replying some unknown plea to remember something or

someone. "Naguib Mahfouz sat here once in this caf. I don't lie to you, really he sat

here once but his favorite caf is ALFishawy"

Leave Zebdya Cafe and go back up to the front of the Al-Azhar Mosque, youcan head north a short distance and you will arrive at Midan Hussein. This was the


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center of medieval Cairo and today remains an important area for some Islamic

religious festivals, including Ramadan. To the north of this is a relatively new

Mosque of Sayyidna al-Hussein. Though new in terms of Egypt, it is a very sacred

site to Muslims and those not of that faith should not enter. Across the street is the

Ahmed Pasha Sabil, while to the south of the Al-Hussein mosque is the new Al Azhar

Park, a mega project that has transformed the surrounding neighborhoods as well asadding needed greenery to the City. The al-Azhar Park offers an excellent view of the

surrounding area and is a nice place to take a rest at the Hilltop or Lakeside Cafes.

Beside the Hussein Mosque lies the most famous tourist market in the whole

world I believe, Khan El Khalili with its famous cafes and many souvenirs shops. Just

beside the Khan El Khaliliis the entrance to the other part of El Mui'z Street. It starts

with Al Sagha, which means 'the gold sellers'. There are many gold and silver shops at

the beginning of this part of the street. You can buy wonderful gifts there at the best

prices. There are also many spice and perfume dealers, as well as the traditional gift

shops that sell papyrus, gifts, shishas and other kinds of souvenirs.

A few steps after these shops, you will enter the area of Bein El Qasrein. Theword means "between the two palaces". These two palaces used to exist 600 years

ago, facing each other and opening on a public square that was the center of Fatimid,

Cairo, founded in 969 AD. Other dynasties replaced the buildings of the street with

buildings of their own but the street remained reserved for grand buildings.

The western side of Bien AlQasrain has the spectacular facades belonging

primarily to three early Mamluk complexes. The most southerly is the Madrasa and

Mausoleum of Sultan Qalawoon and it is the oldest of the three, being completed in

1279. Three hundred prisoners worked in the construction of the complex, which was

completed in 13 months. There is a dark corridor that goes from the Madrasa to the

Mausoleum, which is one of the most stunning interiors in Cairo.Continuing north and adjoining the Qalawoon complex,is the less expansive

faade of the Madrasa and Mausoleum of Sultan Al Nasser Mohamed. It was built

between 1299 and 1304 by a sultan who was forced to leave his throne twice. He was

able to regain power in both cases and he ruled for a total of 42 years. During this

time he built around 200 buildings, all overCairo. The most famous among them is

his mosque in the Citadel. However, his monument in the Mui'z Street is in ill repair

and is in the process of being restored. However, the North African style minaret is a

wonderful sight to see.

Going north you will find the Madrasa of Sultan Barquq, which was built

around the year 1384 to 1386. The Madrasa looks similar to a mosque from the

outside. It was a school for teaching Islamic law. The most interesting thing in this

complex is the four doors which are covered with bronze. There is also the fascinating

mausoleum building that looks like an ornate jewelry box. Sultan Barquq wasnt

buried there, but his daughter was. He was buried in the north cemetery.

The Bein El Qasrein area is very famous worldwide. Naguib Mahfouz, the

famous Egyptian author who won the noble literature prize in 1988, used to live in

this area. Most of his writings were inspired by the place. The first novel of the Cairo

Trilogy, the most famous Egyptian novels, was even called Bein El Qasrein after this

area.

Continue walking to the north and on your right you will find the Beshtak

Palaceof Qaser Beshtak. It can easily be missed from the outside because it is only a

two story building with some mashrabeya windows. However, there is a narrow lane
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right to the house that enters a beautiful Islamic reception. Beshtak was a powerful

prince who married the daughter of the Caliph and had great wealth and influence.

His palace, which was built in 1334, was the host for many great parties and

ceremonies. The house contained five stories but only two remain. The second floor is

a roof now and it has a wonderful panoramic view ofIslamic Cairo with all its

minarets and buildings.

Moving along, in the middle of the street there is the Sabil and Kuttab of

Abdel Katkhuda. Islamic Cairo has many dotted odd shaped buildings that look like

huge windows. These buildings are 'sabils', or fountains of fresh water. Copper cups

were placed next to these fountains so that the people would come and take their

supply of water. Wealthy people used to build sabils to make the people love them,

and they believed they would become closer to God by helping others. The second

floor of the sabil was usually used as a kuttab, a place to teach Quran and Islamic

subjects.

Going north again, you will find the Mosque of Al Aqmaron the right. This

mosque is also called the 'grey mosque' because of the color of its walls. The mosquewas built in 1125 by one of the last Fatimid caliphs. It is well known and famous as

the oldest stone built mosque in Egypt. The decorations of the mosque are

remarkable. Different geometric shapes and verses from the Quran are carved into the

stone.

Walking along the street, you will find Darb Al Asfar Lane. This lane is

famous for two reasons. First, it will take you to theKhan El Khalili market very fast

and easily. Second, it hosts the amazing house of Suhaymi, a very good example of

how a wealthy family used to live in Old Islamic Cairo.

To the left of Darb Al Asfar, there are the remarkable mosque and sabil of

Soliman Al Selhdar. It also contains a madrasa. This mosque is remarkable because itis unlike any other mosque in the area. It was designed in the Turkish style, apparent

by the pencil shaped minaret of the Mosque. It doesnt have a lot of decorations,

which is unlike many of the other mosques of the area.

If you continue walking on Al Mui'z Street, you will find yourself in the

middle of the garlic and onion market. There are many garlic shops in the area and it

is famous for this kind of trade. At the end of this market, there is theMosque of Al

Hakim Be'amr Allah, the third Fatimid Caliph. He ruled when he was only eleven

years old and had his tutor murdered when he was fifteen. He is famous for his

strange actions and violence. He even ordered shoemakers to stop manufacturing

shoes for women to prohibit them from leaving their homes or walking in the street.

This mosque was actually built by his father by Al Hakim, completed in 1013, and

was used as a prison for crusaders in the period of Mohamed Ali. It was restored in

the 1980's and is now a good example of the Islamic art of the period.

The exciting walk in Al Mui'z Le Din Allah Street ends with the northern

walls and gates, including Bab El Naser, Gate of Victory, andBab El Futuah, Gate of

Conquests. They were both built in 1087 and were enlarged by Salah El Din Al

Ayouby. It is possible to walk on the walls and near these gates by jumping from the

roof ofMosque of Al Hakim and then to the walls. These gates demonstrate a great

example of how Cairo was protected in the Fatimid period.

Walking in the Mui'z Street is like walking through the history of Islamic

Egypt. The street is full of Islamic monuments. You can pass through the streets, view

the monuments from outside, and enter the ones you feel attracted to. People in this
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area are quick to help you with anything. After this appealing walk in Mui'z Street, it

is great to freshen up in the Fishawy Caf, the most famous caf in Khan El Khalili.

Taher ElBarbary
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