Irish Car+Travel

Irish Car & Travel Magazine carandtravel.ie May-June 2010 €2.80/£2

TAKING YOU PLACES WITH THE BEST WRITERS

CAR TRAVEL+

HOLIDAY WALES

CUTIE FIAT 500c

CITROEN DS3 STUNNER

THROUGH THAILAND WITH FERDIA O'DOWD

MERIVA TRANSFORMED

With Irish Ferries!

Bring the car: no weight limits!

SHORT VERSION!THIS IS a SHORT VERSION Of

THE laTEST IRISH CaR+TRaVEl.

THE full ISSuE IS aVaIlablE

IN yOuR NEwagENT NOw.

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Flexible champion

FIRST VIEW

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Flexible champion

They produced a dumpy, even frumpy small MPV. And it sold a million. And very quickly into the life of the first generation Meriva, Opel asked themselves the question. What if we made it sexy? So they did. And it will be on sale in Ireland in July. With a price point that might well have Renault and Ford getting a little antsy. Because instead of targeting just the Nissan Note and similar where the current Meriva is positioned, the new car has the socks to pull sales from the segment above it. Plus it has a 'cool' factor that none of the competiton, in any MPV segment, can match at the moment. The rear passenger doors open backwards. Making getting into and out of the back of the car a much more painless exercise than in anything else. I can already visualise families buying into this one simply because their youngsters demand it for that 'cool' factor. But the mothers who usually have to manage the transportation requirements of their offspring will also find the format less of a strain while they install child seats and the children themselves. Making the overall look of the new Meriva sexier was made easier by the new design language of Opel which came with the Insignia and more recently the new generation Astra. So they polished up the new grille, adding the restyled 'blitz' badge that has been there since forever in the brand's history. The headlights are complex, with an 'eagle eye' look that gets its hooded sense from the daylight running lamps over the mains in the clusters. There's a rear end with a distinctive character, cleverly using black glass and lights shapes to make the vehicle look wide. But the profile is where this one really stands out from the rest of the competitor metal. There is the dynamic sculpt like a reversed Nike logo which they brought on board with the Insignia (they reversed it again for the Astra). But there's also a 'wave' shape to the line between the doors metal and the glass that is striking. It's the kind of thing that might or might not have worked, because interaction of shapes in car styling is a tricky thing. But in this case I think it does. And then you notice the doorhandles on the front and rear doors. They're both together in the middle of things, kissing the B pillar. Which is, of course, the visual cue to how those back doors open. The back hinging is not new. Most saloon cars of the �0s and 40s, and a number of sports models too, had that format. But for safety reasons they were banned from 1961, and only allowed again during the last decade when Rolls Royce persuaded the Brussels nannies that they could interlock them in the Phantom so they couldn't be opened while the car was on the go. The format makes sense where it can be used, and Opel has a neat piece of video that shows how there's much less strain on people using such doors to enter and egress a car. And also while doing the other chores involving people and stuff in the back seat. Sliding doors offer something similar, and are used by some competitors. But they require external rails that don't look well. Also, they are generally much heavier both in weight and operation. Opel's Meriva designers dropped that option quickly. They did a lot of work on the interior. In keeping with the brand's current quality philosophy, the new Meriva has substantially upped the ante in this segment as they have previously done with Insignia and Astra. Style in instruments and controls is premium in detail and feel. A clever between seats storage system which can safely hold a handbag as well as the usual stuff. The seats deserve special mention, really comfortable and supportive. And that's without going for the special ergonomic seats option which have won a special award in Germany from a group of doctors specialising in back health. The car is a 5-seat, four adults in real comfort or two with three youngsters. Since the first generation Zafira in the compact segment, Opel has been very smart in seating flexibility, and the new Meriva brings this several degrees further in ease of use. The engines at launch will be three 1.4 petrols, two of them turbocharged and offering 1�0/140hp respectively. The first diesels will be a 75hp 1.� and a 100hp 1.7, the latter only available with auto at first. The 100hp normally aspirated 1.4 will be the entry, with a premium of around €750 to get to the first diesel. I only drove the two turbos at launch, liked both as very quiet and refined and capable motors. The driving experience was good. As usual, we'll wait for Irish conditions to assess how the new Meriva feels in the longer term. But if you're of a mind and need to go the small/compact MPV trail, this one has the potential to take you places you didn't expect to be going to. And it's sexy too.

Brian Byrne.

Call 1850 200 724 or text AURIS to 51444**

for a brochure or test drive.

www.toyota.ie

The New Auris cuts an impressive figure.

Thanks to some ingenious new Toyota technology called Toyota Optimal Drive, the new Auris squeezes an extra 135 kilometres out of a full tank of petrol. That’s making the same fuel go 17% further. Which is impressively mean. And you won’t just be saving on fuel. The new Auris starts at a highly competitive €17,445 (inc. Government Scrappage*) and Road Tax is only €156 per annum. Just as well then that every other aspect of the new Auris is an upgrade to first class. Experience the difference. The new Auris is also available in a particularly sophisticated and frugal diesel, with Road Tax from €104 per annum.

Makes the same fuel

go 17% further.

*Government Scrappage allowance of up to €1,500 available on the Auris 1.33 Petrol and 1.4 Diesel. The Auris comes with a 3 year or 100,000km parts and labour warranty and 3 year Toyota Eurocare emergency roadside assistance. Retail price from €18,945 for the three door, €19,525 for the five door (excludes delivery and related charges). Model shown is for illustrative purposes only. Fuel Consumption for an Auris Terra Petrol (1.33 Litre) 139g. Combined 5.9 Litres. Urban 7.3 Litres. Extra 5.1 Litres. Fuel Consumption for an Auris Terra/Aura Diesel (1.4 Litre) 118g/km Combined 4.5 Litres. Urban 5.4 Litres. Extra 3.9 Litres. Toyota Ireland is a 100% Irish owned company. **Standard text rates apply.

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This cute little car has now got cuter with the new soft top convertible. While the 500C pays clear homage to the style of the original 1957 500, it is bang up-to-date for modern young things, packed with the latest solutions in terms of build, engines and creature comforts. Driving with the top down in this four-seater was quite a good experience as there wasn't that much wind turbulence due to the deeper windscreen. There's an optional wind-stop for behind the rear headrests which attaches to the parcel shelf, and you don't have to remove it to open or close the lid. You can fully, or half close the roof and the top can be opened or closed at speeds of up to 60km/h. The boot space is really quite small, as you'd expect in a car this size. The inside is quite gorgeous. There's a stylish dash, a big speedometer; really nice, comfy, red leather seats; and creature comforts like automatic climate control, a HiFi System, a Blue&Me map portable navigation unit, as well as a new Start & Stop system. The 500C is offered here with just a 1.�, 69hp petrol engine mated to a five-speed manual gearbox. It suited the car well for trips about town, but needed wellie to keep at maximum speed on motorways. Fuel consumption is pegged at 4.8 L/100km and emissions are just 11�g/km (Band A). The Stop/Start system can reduce fuel consumption by up to

1� percent. This is essentially a fun car to drive. Big on character, it will make you feel good, put a smile on your face and lift your spirits on down days. What greater endorsement is there? A downside is the poor rear visibility. The roof concertinas back to sit on top of the boot, and so blocks your rear view. This means you use the side mirrors a lot more. The big C-Pillars also restrict your view somewhat. Standard equipment also includes ABS with electronic brake distribution, and hydraulic brake assistance to help with emergency stops. There's automatic climate control, fog lights and parking sensors. Some other

features like a Hill Hold system, are optional extras. The Lounge version adds chrome silverware to the side windows, exhaust pipe, inside door handle inserts, the gear lever, and front and rear bumpers. My review car looked drop dead gorgeous with its Funk White Pearlescent exterior in stark contrast to the red of the soft top and the red leather upholstery. Options are

pearlescent Ragamuffin Red, Tech House Grey (typical of high performance supercars) or an elegant Goth-Metal Blue. With a number of extras, like upgraded alloys and HiFi system, the price of the review car was €22,600. The basic Lounge trim starts at €18,145.

Trish Whelan.

Window to the sky

Pictures by Conor Twomey.

Continental Tyre Group Ireland, Clyde Lodge, 15 Clyde Road, Dublin 4, Tel. (01) 660 7633

Window to the sky

Every Kia now comes with a 7 year warranty.

NEW LOOK FOR KIA CEE’D RANGE.

The new Kia cee’d range from €18,950(cee’d_SW 1.6 D TX €19,820)

For more on the new cee’d and our unbeatable 7 year warranty visit your local Kia dealer or log on to www.kiamotors.ie

OFFICIAL FUEL CONSUMPTION FIGURES IN l/100km FOR THE KIA CEE’D and CEE’D_SW ARE: URBAN: 5.4 – 5.3, EXTRA URBAN: 4.1 – 4.0, COMBINED: 4.6 – 4.5. CO2for more details. *Models shown may not be to Irish specification. Delivery and related charges are extra. Metallic paint extra. www.kiamotors.ie

EMISSIONS ARE: 122 – 118g/km. Warranty is for 7 years / 150,000km and is subject to terms and conditions as defined in the owner’s warranty and service handbook. See kiamotors.ie

Kia. Home of the 7 year warranty.

The Kia cee’d range has been beautifully facelifted for 2010. The exterior features Kia’s new family ‘tiger nose’ grille and the new interior boasts a smart new look steering wheel, a new design for the centre fascia and a 6 speed gearbox. The beauty however, is more than skin deep – the new cee’d_sw is superbly engineered for an even more assured ride. Kia’s super-efficent 1.6 CRDi diesel engine features even lower emissions and better fuel economy dropping the new 5dr cee’d to a remarkable €104 road tax. One thing, however, hasn’t changed: the unparalleled build quality which allows Kia to offer an unbeatable 7 year warranty on all our cars.

201078_ceed_FL_National_HP_Press_SunIndo_120410+.indd 1-2 15/4/10 13:14:30

6

Cool coupe

Peugeot are getting into the sports coupe business with a car that has both attitude and style. The new RCZ will dramatically change perceptions of the French brand when it comes here sometime around the end of July. And though in numbers terms, it won't make a significant difference to the distributor's bottom line, it will attract extra buyers to the more practical models from the Lion brand into showrooms. It will also turn heads in a big way as it prowls both highway and suburb, looking for Audi TTs to challenge. Because that's the target market for this �+� which is also the first Peugeot not to have numbers in its name. The engines range will include a �.0 16�hp diesel and a turbocharged 1.6 petrol with 156hp output, as well as a �00hp version of that petrol unit. In the metal and on some very interesting roads in the north of Spain, it is an impressive car not just for its distinctive style, but also the quality of the finish, a matter which the brand really began to address with its �008/5008 MPVs launched last year. The intriguing 'double bubble' rear screen treatment gives it a hint of character and also provides extra headroom for two smaller people who may have occasion to use the rear seats. There's quite a lot of technology involved in the bodywork of this car. It is slippery in aerodynamic terms, of course, and that is readily

appreciated by the lack of wind noise when travelling fast. There is also a pop-up spoiler to improve those aerodynamics at different speeds. Up front, the bonnet will automatically lift itself in the event of impact with a pedestrian, with the aim of minimising any injuries. A Sport Pack available with the petrol engines has a resonator system which offers a really sporty exhaust noise when the accelerator is pushed hard. The interior is very well finished indeed. The instruments are classy, the controls on the centre stack sophisticated in their styling a la 5008, and everything is geared towards making the driver feel at home. But the main passenger also has a great degree of comfort, and both myself and my driving colleague were very impressed with the seats. The car is being built for Peugeot by Magna in Austria, and their build quality certainly showed to be high on the test run, as there wasn't a squeak or a rattle the whole way, even when we hit some Irish-like surfaces. Driving the �00hp petrol car first really provided a sense of how well set up the RCZ is for this level of performance, reflected in the 7.5 seconds sprint to 100km/h. It does have a smaller steering wheel and some extra gubbins on the front suspension, both of which made it feel quite taut, albeit in the softer Gallic sense rather than a Teutonic feel. The engine is responsive, once again an example of the rapid gains in technology which have substantially improved petrol engines in recent times. So on the twisting mountain roads it was a lot of fun. The diesel took a little more work on those same roads, partly because its front suspension lacked the tautness of the top-end version and had a bit more understeer to deal with. But it was a powertrain that grew on one as we progressed. There are 6-speed manual gearboxes as standard, and an autobox will be available. There aren't any prices yet for the Irish market, where around 150 are expected to be sold next year. Orders can be taken now, though, if you want one at the earliest possible time.

Brian Byrne.

'It will turn heads in a big way as it prowls both highway and suburb, looking for Audi TTs to challenge'

FIRST VIEW

7

Cool coupe

CRÉATIVE TECHNOLOGIE

www.citroen.ie

Offıcial Government Fuel Consumption Figures (litres per 100km/mpg) and CO2 Emissions (g/km). Highest: DS3 1.4 95hp : Urban 7.6/37.2, Extra Urban 4.8/58.9, Combined 5.8/48.7 and 134 CO2. Lowest: DS3 1.6HDi 16V 90hp: Urban 4.9/57.6, Extra Urban 3.4/83.1, Combined 4.0/70.6 and 104 CO2.

Anti Retro is a movement. A new movement that believes in the principle of customisation with 38 combinations of body and roof colour. That believes in spacious, high quality interiors. That believes in hi-tech kit, USB connections and Hi-Fi with Bluetooth.® That believes in choice, petrol and diesel models. Believe in Anti Retro and never look back.

For more information on new DS3 please visit www.citroen.ie

NEW CITROËN DS3

Adventure, variety and outstanding value – three reasons why there has never been a better time to spend a family summer holiday in Wales. Irish Ferries and Haven Holidays together offer frequent, luxurious, relaxing travel with six sailings per day combined with five award winning self-catering holiday parks in Wales. Travelling to North Wales on the Dublin to Holyhead route, passengers can enjoy the efficiency and frequency of Irish Ferries’ fast ferry, Jonathan Swift or the comfort and luxury of the world’s largest car ferry Ulysses. Arriving in Holyhead you are within easy reach of three superb holiday parks: Presthaven Sands, Hafa y Mor and Greenacres, all dotted along the spectacular North Welsh coastline. Going to South Wales, Irish Ferries operates one of Europe’s largest, stylish and most modern cruise ferries the Isle of Inishmore from Rosslare to Pembroke. Taking this route, you arrive on the doorstep of two exceptional holiday parks, Quay West in New Quay on the beautiful West Wales coast with spectacular sea views and Kiln, which is adjacent to Tenby’s stunning south beach and the breathtaking Pembrokeshire National Park coastal path. Both holiday parks are situated in close proximity to Oakwood Theme Park, the only theme park in Wales. For pool lovers and water babies, these five Welsh holiday parks include facilities such as outdoor pools, heated indoor pools for when the sun doesn’t shine, children’s paddling pools, Water Walkerz, AquaJets, Aqua Gliders, Turbo Paddlers, Learn�swim and Fun Inflatables, to mention but a few. The active, adventurous type can get stuck into Laser Combat, Roller Blading, Character Olympics, Fencing, Archery, and Trampoline or try their hand at Coke FC Football Coaching. For the junior family members, most of these activities are available in mini versions along with the toddler to teen facilities including family fun time

shows, kiddies rides, indoor fun palace, soft play area, bouncing castle and character breakfasts. There are also Little Cubs for 1-4 year olds, club R&B for 5 to 11’s or T-Co Zone for 1� to 16 year olds allowing parents a welcomed breather. Activities to suit all the family incorporate pool tables, go karting, games rooms and

amusements, bike and kart hire, mini ten-pin bowling, pitch & putt and tennis courts. For wining and dining, families can enjoy non-stop family entertainment with free shows while availing of lounge-bar-cafes and summer time barbeques, along with local access to shops, bakeries and convenience stores. For those looking to venture beyond the confines of a holiday park, there is the freedom to explore the beautiful Welsh coastline and participate in activities such as sailing, yachting, kayaking, banana boats and a host of other water sports. From North Wales, other attractions might include a shopping trip to Chester or a short hop to Manchester or Liverpool to take in a premiership match. To satisfy those fond of great outdoors there is walking, hiking, canoeing and rock climbing in the picturesque Snowdonia National Park. Those choosing the South Wales route will find Cardiff an appealing destination. Travelling by car with Irish Ferries to Wales affords families the freedom to pack as many items as required, from buggies to bicycles, roof racks or trailers, without the concern of luggage restrictions. If this is an advantage on the way out, imaging how

A rare bit of Welsh breakaway

10

TRAVEL

11

beneficial it will be on the way home. With your own car, you can shop at will knowing you have the space to carry home even the most bulky purchases. Peak season prices for seven nights start at €499 for six people which includes return car ferry crossing and accommodation at a Haven Holiday Park which equates to less than €12 per person per day. If you find the same holiday like for like, Irish Ferries will not only match this price but give you €25 back. So if you are looking for a holiday that’s got it all – adventure, freedom, variety, fun and great value, choose a Haven holiday with Irish Ferries where your holiday begins the moment you step on board. For more information contact www.irishferries.com/holidays or call 0818 �00 400.

The wines of Rioja in Northern Spain come from a very small part of that country, but are now making an impact on a global basis that rivals even the most established of the French wine regions. The oldest winery in the region is the Herederos Marqués de Riscal in Eleciego, in the Alavesa region, and its owners have undertaken the development of a 'City of Wine' project built around what is arguably the most extraordinary hotel design in Spain. The building was designed by Canadian architect Frank O Gehry, also the creator of the Guggenheim Museum building in Bilbao. The local story goes that the Marqués de Riscal owners finally persuaded a reluctant Gehry to take on the commission by bringing him down to the cellars and opening a couple of bottles of their wine laid down in the year of his birth, 19�9. The winery was established in 1858 by the then Marqués, Don Guillermo Hurtado de Amézaga, a journalist and diplomat living in Bordeaux who owned vineyards in Elciego. He hired French wine experts to bring the Medoc techniques of winemaking to the

area. Today's wines come from 1,�00 hectares of vineyards in the area, of which ��0 are owned

directly by Herederos Marqués de Riscal. The predominant variety of grape is Tempranillo, which typically in Rioja wines is blended with other varieties, including Graciano and Mazuelo.

Elciego itself is one of those typically quiet Basque country towns, but where virtually every building is involved in some way with the wine business. Winemaking in the area can be traced right back to the Phoenicians, one of the first of the ancient cultures known to have extended winemaking from their base in modern-day Lebanon through the countries now known as Algeria, Tunisia, Egypt, Greece, Italy, Spain, and Portugal. There are today some 14,000 vineyards in the Rioja

region. The area was recently used by Peugeot for the international launch of its RCZ sports coupe.

Brian Byrne.

A taste of RiojaA rare bit of Welsh breakaway

1�

Delicious DS3FIRST VIEW

1�

Since BMW introduced their version of the iconic Mini in �001, it has been the small premium car to target. And other makers have tried to topple the BMW baby, with, by and large, varying degrees of failure. Fiat's 500 and its cousin Alfa Romeo MiTo are among the key contenders aiming for the Mini's crown, and Audi's upcoming A1 will be heading for the same ring. But the new Citroen DS� is my personal favourite at the moment to successfully take on the champion. The DS� is the first of a series of premium cars from Citroen which are based in their mass market models but come with personalities and performances all of their own. Seeing the car in a real road driving environment, as opposed to the couple of motor show appearances we've copped it at over the last year or so, is quite frankly jaw-dropping. It even distracted a courting couple in the grounds of Carton House from their business at hand to watch it drive by. There's a lot of flair in the style. Indeed, Citroen will tell you themselves that the DS� is all about style, using tried and tested mechanicals to move that style along. A �-door hatch, it will never be accused of understatement, with lots of flowy sculpting, and hi-tech looks and detailing, which of course those old enough to remember the original DS19 in the '50s also had. There are myriad, in the several hundreds, options for customising the DS� at point of order. Especially arresting are the various designs which can be had on the roof, and which are reflected in parts of the interior furniture and fittings. The car is aimed at both men and women, and has three trim levels — DSign, DStyle & DSport. DSign models are far from being a basic proposition, with leather steering wheel in a funky shape, an MP�-compatible CD player with steering mounted controls, front fog lights, electric door mirrors, cruise control with speed limiter, ESP, six airbags, electric windows, remote central locking and Gear Efficiency Indicator. The car also features striking front bumper mounted LEDs, air-conditioning, dark tinted rear windows, contrasting body and roof colours, roof coloured painted door mirrors with a chrome base, shiny-finished black dashboard and 16" diamond-tipped alloy wheels. At first blush, it is all rather gorgeous. And even though much of the dashboard, instrumentation and other details are already in the current generation C�, they just feel different in the DS�. Owners can select from several colour cloths and premium leathers, with the dashboard available in up to six finishes including red, blue, white and even aluminium or carbon fibre effects. The car is longer than a Mini, has significantly more front and rear elbow room, and class-leading boot capacity. There are five Euro engines in the full range, three BMW co-developed petrols and two Citroen HDi diesels. Power is from 90hp-150hp. ESP is standard. The initial prices for the car are €18,950 and €21,500. I drove the 90hp diesel, which is a Band A car, on a circuit in North Kildare that included some pretty grotty roads. The experience leads me to believe this is a tough and well-connected little motor that is a fun car when conditions allow. The handling with the kind of four-wheels-on-a-corner feel that we're used to from the BMW Mini is right there in the DS� too, and it certainly seems to be set up for a sportier experience than the C� itself. The 1.4 diesel has an unexpectedly sporty note, and its torque characteristics are right on spot for the same feeling. I'll be spending a decent amount of time with the car as soon as I can, and I'm very much looking forward to it.

Brian Byrne.

Delicious DS3

A driving holiday in The Land of Smiles

14

TRAVEL

When Irish people think of a holiday in Thailand, the usual picture that comes to mind is one of beach destinations, such as Phuket or Koh Samui, combined with trips to Bangkok's many excellent shopping malls. However, there is far more to the Land of Smiles than that and the best way to find out is by taking a driving holiday. This is not as difficult an undertaking as it might seem at first, as the Thais drive on the same side of the road as we do. However, there will be shoals of motorcycles everywhere and driving standards are pretty dreadful. One good thing is that Thai drivers always warn of an accident ahead by placing tree branches on the road. If you see this, slow down! Irish drivers used to the iffy surfaces of many of our non-motorway roads will be pleasantly surprised by the quality and engineering of the roads in rural Thailand. Best of all is that Garmin has an excellent sat-nav system for the country, the only such company to have one. This is a great help in getting about and overcoming the language problem, as it can be set in English. Thailand is a big country, shaped roughly like Italy. From tip to tip, it measures about �,000km. It has a large, wide upper portion, ending in mountains to the North and bordered by the Maekong river to the East. Then, going down from Bangkok, there is a long leg which extends Southwards, past Phuket, to the border with Malaysia. Thailand has roughly the same surface area as France, with a similar population of around 66 million people. I first visited Thailand more than �0 years ago and, since then, have driven more than �0,000km there. Most of this has been purely holiday, a small portion doing road tests of new vehicles. While the idea of doing road tests there may seem a bit odd, it should be remembered that a large majority of the pick-up trucks sold in Ireland are built in Thailand, a country whose motor industry is expected to built 1.4 million vehicles this year, exporting to more than 1�0 countries worldwide. Most people will not want to spend much time in the capital city, a huge and crowded metropolis, greater Bangkok having a population approaching 1� million people. However its ancient temples, palaces and museums are well worth a visit, while, as in many cities, a cruise on the big river, the Chao Phraya, is a good idea. Getting around the main parts of the city is very easy, thanks to the overhead railway, commonly called the Skytrain (BTS) and the underground (MRT). The former is roughly cruciform in shape, the latter semi-circular, so they intersect at three different points, not to mention linking to the very frequent river ferry services. (Wonders — will Dublin's transport system ever interlink with the same intelligence?) The most beautiful parts of Thailand for motoring holidays are in the North — where the many stunning mountain ranges are the initial foothills of the Himalayas — and across the Northeastern provinces, collectively known as Isaan. It is in these regions, for the most part far from tourists traps, that the real Thailand is to be found. The Northern region is based around Chiang Mai, Thailand's second ranking city, some 700km from Bangkok. While it is easy to fly there from the modern capital, driving

north brings a wonderful opportunity to learn the history of the country and see many impressive sights surrounding previous capital cities of Siam. About 75km from Bangkok is the ruined city of Ayuthaya, the capital between 1�50 and 1767, when it was razed by invading Burmese. What remains of its multitude of temples is simply breath-taking, with many stunning Buddha statues. To see it all, allow two days at least, as it covers a vast area. Some ��0km further to the North

lies Suhkothai, the first true capital of the country. It flourished between 1�50 and the late 14th century, when it, too fell victim to invading Burmese. Many find its ruins even more impressive than those of Ayuthaya and it is far less "touristy". Nearby are the ancient cities of Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet, whose National Parks and ruined splendors are well worth a visit, too. Chiang Mai makes an ideal base for touring. Now a large, modern city, its

15

A driving holiday in The Land of Smiles

ancient centre, surrounded by a square moat, has almost as many temples as Bangkok. It has a famous night market and a very wide range of accommodation, from luxurious resorts to backpacker hostels. In general, prices and living costs are appreciably less than in Bangkok and the climate cooler and more agreeable for most of the year. However, the region is best avoided in late Winter and Spring, due to the burning of agricultural waste and illegal forest fires, which bring serious air pollution. Dominating Chaing Mai is the mountain of Doi Suteph, with its famous temple of the same name. Its easy to drive there in less than �0 minutes, though you must park and climb �65 steps to temple. Its well worth it, as not only is the temple itself magnificent but there great views down over the city. Before venturing further afield, be sure to buy of copy of Oliver Hargrave's excellent book "Exploring Chiang Mai" which gives detailed, illustrated descriptions of many of the principal drives in the region. It can be found in good bookshops. Doi Intanon, Thailand's highest mountain, at �565m, makes a great one day excursion. Start early, as it lies 90 minutes drive to the southwest, or plan to stay overnight in many of the fine resorts near Chom Thong, a small town with a lovely temple, situated at the beginning of the road to the mountain. On the way up, there are several beautiful waterfalls. Nearer the top, visit the two temples built for the King's 60th anniversary, while from the summit itself there is a fine 90 minute nature walk from the car park on the left, giving some splendid views towards Burma to the West. Another wonderful drive, worth several days, is the loop to the Northwest, departing Chiang Mai on highway 107 to the North. Be prepared! Once you turn left off from the main highway, the road goes into the mountains and there are several hundred hairpin bends, mountains and valleys until you reach the picturesque town of Pai, well worth an overnight stop, particularly at some of the small resorts outside the main area. Continuing on towards Mae Hong Son brings the total number of bends to over 1,000! However, once you experience the stunning views, you will be very satisfied. In this region, you will find many of Thailand's ancient hill tribes, such as the Karen and Hmong, who still continue with their traditional dress and agriculture. There are many lovely drives and treks around Mae Hong Son, before

continuing the loop down towards Mai Sariang, thence back to Chaing Mai. If time is running short, take the short cut through Mae Chaem, under Doi Intanon. Further to the north is the area around Fang and Tha Ton known as Thailand's "Little Switzerland". Mountains to see here include Doi Ang Khang, with a very steep road to the summit and Doi Pra Hom Pok, Thailand's second highest mountain. Getting here requires a 4X4, as it's a dirt road for the last 15km or so. It is a great experience to camp in the tent park overnight, surrounded by Pine trees, as at �,�00m, the temperature is refreshingly cool in the hot season. Not far from Chiang Mai lies the ancient city of Lampang. This gives a much more realistic flavour of traditional upcountry life than Chiang Mai, which has become very commercialised in recent years. One sight not to miss in this area is Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, some 14km SW of the city. It is certainly the best remaining example of a large wooden temple complex in the Lanna style. Much of the temple was completed before the year 1500. Another place to visit is the picturesque village of Bo Sang, famous for its highly decorative painted umbrellas. If you would like to get away from everything, then a visit to Nan province is just the ticket. This remote region, bordering Laos, is very mountainous, with several peaks above �000m. Until the 1980s, this was one of the most lawless places in Thailand, with lots of bandits and insurgents, remnants of the Vietnam war. Today it is a peaceful place, with very few foreign tourists and life mostly based on agriculture. Many of Thailand's smaller ethnic groups live here, keeping their traditional way of life. One beautiful drive out from the city of Nan is to visit Ban Bo Glua, a large village where there is an artisan industry centred around an underground salt reserve. Just outside the village there is a very nice small resort where one can stay in modern, yet traditional wooden houses overlooking the river. The vast region of Isaan is equally worthy of exploration and will, perhaps, be the subject of a future article.

Ferdia O'Dowd

PRACTICAL TIPS Scams Always be on your guard, always use the hotel safe for valuables, wallets, passports and cash. Get a receipt. In Bangkok night spots and at the Airport, watch out for taxis which will not run the meter. If the meter is not on, do not travel! There is a big tuk-tuk mafia in Phuket -- always fix the price first. Chaweng, the main town of Koh Samui, has its problems, too. On highways around Bangkok and on other main arteries, traffic police regularly look for "tea money", so be prepared to pay a 'fine' -- whether legitimate or not! Visas Visitors from Ireland get an automatic tourist visa on arrival, valid for �0 days. For a longer stay visa before arrival, contact the Royal Thai consulate in Dublin, 01 478641�. Rules are changed frequently! Driving Licence As well as your Irish driving licence, you should have an International Driving Permit, available from the AA. Car Hire Most major car hire companies are present in the big cities in Thailand. There are many local companies also, some reputable, some dodgy! In Chiang Mai, North Wheels has a good reputation. Always check the condition of the car carefully, including all tyres, before leaving the premises. Take photos of the car with a member of staff to be on the safe side! Money At the time of writing, €1 is worth 45 baht. While normal Irish cash cards and credit cards work fine in most machines, last year the Thai banks unilaterally decided to charge every foreign ATM card an extra fee of 150 baht for every withdrawal. Irish banks limit you to around €200 per day! If traveling with a family, this can leave you short of funds. Talk to your own branch before you leave. If you are comfortable carrying cash, bring euro. There is no problem changing €100, €200 or even €500 notes at the main banks in Thailand. Banks in Thailand always give the official rate at their exchange counters. Do not change euro to baht at a European airport.

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The new E-Class Cabriolet BlueEFFICIENCY.

New models – new prices – new C02s – new road tax across the Mercedes-Benz BlueEFFICIENCY range for 2010.

CO2 emissions 143 -148 g/km.Fuel Economy Combined 5.4 -5.6 lts/100km.

www.mercedes-benz.ie

Summer 2010. Nothing but blue skies.

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32413 E-Class Cabrio A4:Mercedes 13/04/2010 11:06 Page 1

NEW PEUGEOT 5008

The new Peugeot 5008 7-seater MPV.Book Your Seat.

From €26,870*Road Tax €156

*Qualifies for Govt. Scrappage

www.peugeot.iePEUGEOT RECOMMENDS TOTAL *Price not inclusive of dealer delivery charges. CO2 =140g. Mixed consumption 5.3litres/100km.

“Peugeot 5008...the best MPV in its class.” - Irish Times

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