IRELAND’S BEST TRIPS - Lonely...

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This edition written and researched by Fionn Davenport Isabel Albiston Catherine Le Nevez AMAZING ROAD TRIPS 34 BEST TRIPS IRELAND’S ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Transcript of IRELAND’S BEST TRIPS - Lonely...

  • This edition written and researched by

    Fionn Davenport Isabel Albiston

    Catherine Le Nevez

    AMAZING ROAD TRIPS34

    BEST TRIPSIRELAND’S

    ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

  • MAP LEGEND

    SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS

    % Telephone Number

    h Opening Hours

    p Parking

    n Nonsmoking

    a Air- Conditioning

    i Internet Access

    W Wi-Fi Access

    v Vegetarian Selection

    s Swimming Pool

    E English- Language Menu

    c Family-Friendly

    # Pet-Friendly

    Tips from Locals

    Top Tips

    Link Your Trips

    Trip Detour

    5 Eating

    Family

    History & Culture

    Food & Drink

    Outdoors

    Essential Photo

    Walking Tour

    4 Sleeping

    PLAN YOUR TRIP

    Welcome to Ireland ......................... 7

    Ireland Highlights ............................ 8

    If You Like... ................................... 20

    Need to Know ................................. 22

    City Guide ........................................24

    Ireland by Region .......................... 30

    Ireland Classic Trips ..................... 32

    ON THE ROAD

    1Iconic Ireland .......................7 Days 35

    2 The Long Way Round .............14 Days 49

    3Tip to Toe ..........................10 Days 63

    DUBLIN & EASTERN IRELAND ...........................77

    4 A Long Weekend Around Dublin .........3 Days 81

    5 East to West ..........................7 Days 89

    6 The Boyne Valley ........................2 Days 97

    7 Ancient Ireland .......................4 Days 105

    Walk Track/Path

    River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/ Intermittent LakeGlacier

    BeachCemetery (Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

    Sportsground

    International

    Cliff

    Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

    State/Province

    StepsPlaza/Mall

    Pedestrian Overpass

    Tunnel

    Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

    Airport

    Train/Railway

    Cable Car/ Funicular

    National NetworkE-Road Network

    ReservationUrban Area

    Trip Stop

    Tram

    Trip Numbers

    Walking tour

    Trip Detour

    Parking

    LaneTertiary

    TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

    Unsealed Road

    Transport

    Hydrography

    Areas

    Boundaries

    Population

    Routes

    Highway Markers

    Trips

    Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

  • CONTENTS

    8Monasteries, Mountains & Mansions .................3 Days 113

    9Wicklow Mountains ................3 Days 121

    a Carlow Back Roads ..............3 Days 129

    b Kilkenny’s Treasures .................3 Days 137

    cWexford & Waterford .................5 Days 145

    d Blackwater Valley Drive..........................2 Days 153

    e Family Fun .............................3 Days 161

    CORK & SOUTHWEST IRELAND ...173

    f Ring of Kerry .........................4 Days 177

    g Dingle Peninsula ............. 3–4 Days 189

    h Southwest Blitz ...........................4 Days 199

    i Southwestern Pantry .......................5 Days 211

    jWest Cork Villages .....................7 Days 219

    k Shannon River Route ........................4 Days 227

    l The Holy Glen ...................... 2–3 Days 235

    Cork &Southwest

    Irelandp173

    Galway &the West of

    Irelandp245

    Belfast &the North of

    Irelandp313

    Dublin &Eastern Ireland

    p77

    3

  • Contents cont.

    Aran Islands Castle ruins on Inisheer

    GA

    VIN

    QU

    IRK

    E/G

    ET

    TY

    IMA

    GE

    S ©

    GALWAY & THE WEST OF IRELAND .........245

    m Best of the West ...................6 Days 249

    nMusical Landscapes ..............5 Days 261

    o Mountains & Moors ........................6 Days 271

    p Loughs of the West .............. 3–4 Days 279

    q North Mayo & Sligo ..........................4 Days 287

    r Sligo Surrounds .................5 Days 295

    s County Clare ..........................7 Days 303

    BELFAST & THE NORTH OF IRELAND .......313

    t The North in a Nutshell ...............10 Days 317

    u Delights of Donegal .....................7 Days 329

    v Inishowen Peninsula ..................3 Days 337

    w Northwest on Adrenalin ..................4 Days 345

    x From Bangor to Derry .....................4 Days 353

    y The Antrim Coast .........................3 Days 361

    ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS

    Ireland Driving Guide ...................373

    Ireland Travel Guide .....................378

    Language ...................................... 386

    Index ............................................. 389

    4

  • 5

  • Aabbeys

    Black Abbey 169Duiske Abbey 142Dunbrody Abbey 148Hore Abbey 110, 240Jerpoint Abbey 110, 140Kylemore Abbey 276Mellifont Abbey 100-2Mt Melleray Cistercian

    Abbey 156Muckross Abbey 186Sligo Abbey 348Tintern Abbey 147-8

    accessible travel 385accommodation 23, 378,

    379-80, see also individual locations

    Achill Island 289, 293activities 21, see also

    individual activitiesAdare 230, 233, 255, 258-9Adare Castle 230Ahakista 224air travel 378Allihies 224Altamont Gardens 132ancient sites & ruins 19, 20,

    see also abbeys, churches & cathedrals, castles, stone circlesAthassel Priory 239Battle of the Boyne Site 100

    Browne’s Hill Dolmen 132Brú na Bóinne 17, 83, 99,

    103, 106-7, 111, 164Carrowkeel Megalithic

    Cemetery 296-7Céide Fields 250-1, 346-8Cooley Cross 339Corlea Trackway 118Dún Aengus 56, 92, 268,

    305Gallarus Oratory 194Kells Priory 139-40 Kilree High Cross 140Kilree Round Tower 140Loughcrew Cairns 107-8Monasterboice 102Reginald’s Tower 148, 150Riase Monastic

    Settlement 194Saltee Islands 148Slea Head 192Spanish Arch 310St Mura Cross 323

    Antrim Coast 361-7apps 376Aran Islands 308Ardara 332Ardgroom 224Ardmore 58, 150, 151, 156Ards Forest Park 333area codes 384Arranmore Island 325, 327Arthurstown 148Ashford Castle 282

    Askeaton 231Assarancagh Waterfall 326Athassel Priory 239Athenry 70Athlone 70-1, 74, 119ATMs 382Aughris Head 291-2, 293automobile associations 376Avondale House 126

    BBagenalstown 134Ballaghbeama Gap 184Ballina 228, 290Ballinrobe 282-3Ballon 135Ballycarbery Castle 181Ballycastle 319, 327Ballycroy National Park

    289-90Ballycurrin Lighthouse 282Ballyduff Upper 158Ballyferriter 194Ballyhillin Beach 342Ballymaloe House 216Ballymena 362-3Ballysaggartmore Towers 158Ballyvaughan 305, 309Baltimore 214, 222Bangor 354Bansha 237-8Bantry 203-5, 209, 223-4,

    225

    INDEX

    389

    ©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd

  • Bantry House 203-4Barleycove Beach 222Battle of the Boyne Site 100B&Bs 379-80beaches

    Achill Island 289Ballyhillin Beach 342 Barleycove Beach 222 Glassilaun Beach 275-6 Omney Strand 284Portrush 358Portstewart Strand 320Rossbeigh Strand 180Strandhill 298Streedagh Beach 299-300 Youghal 154

    Beara Peninsula 224, 225beer 50, 134Belfast 12, 27, 51-2, 319, 356,

    368-9accommodation 60food 60, 359

    Belfast City Hall 368Belvedere House & Gardens

    117-18Belvelly 216Benbulben 299Bennettsbridge 139Birr 71, 75, 108, 111, 116-17, 119Birr Castle 71, 116Bishop’s Palace 150Black Abbey 169Black Castle 134Blackwater River 157Blackwater Valley 153-9Blarney Castle 207Blarney Stone 207Blasket Centre 193Blasket Islands 192Blennerville 196Blessington 85, 87boat travel 253, 378Book of Kells 36Booley House 158

    border crossings 376Borris 133, 135Boycott, Captain Charles

    Cunningham 282Boyne Valley 97-103Braid Museum 362-3Brandon Point 194Brandon Regatta 195Brow Head 223Browne’s Hill Dolmen 132Brú Ború 240Brú na Bóinne 17, 83, 99, 103,

    106-7, 111, 164Buncrana 334, 335, 342, 343Buncrana Castle 334, 342Bunratty 232Bunratty Castle 232 Burren 55-6, 93Bushmills 366, 367business hours 383Butcher’s Gate 370Butter Museum 214Butter Slip 168

    CCaherconnell Fort 57Caherdaniel 44-5, 184, 202-3Cahergall 181Cahersiveen 181-3, 202Cahir 237Cahir Castle 237 camping 380Cappoquin 154-6, 159Cappoquin House & Gardens

    155-6car hire 22, 373car insurance 373caravan parks 380Carlingford 166, 167Carlow Brewing

    Company 134Carlow County 129-35Carlow County Museum 130Carlow Garden Trail 134

    Carlow Town 130, 135Carndonagh 343Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

    52, 320, 357, 366Carrigart 324Carrowkeel Megalithic

    Cemetery 296-7cars, see drivingCashel 109, 111, 240, 241,

    277Cashel Folk Village 240Castlebar 70, 74Castlebellingham 102Castlegregory 195, 197castles

    Adare Castle 230Ashford Castle 282Ballycarbery Castle 181Birr Castle 71, 116Black Castle 134Blarney Castle 207Buncrana Castle 334, 342Bunratty Castle 232Cahir Castle 237Classiebawn Castle 300Desmond Castle 214, 231,

    255Doe Castle 324-5Donegal Castle 67, 349Dungarvan Castle 150, 208Dunguaire Castle 94Dunluce Castle 357-8Dunseverick Castle 52Hillsborough Castle 355-6Huntington Castle 132-3Kilkenny Castle 71-2, 168King John’s Castle 230Lismore Castle 157Lynch’s Castle 311Mullin’s Castle 140O’Brien’s Castle 306Parke’s Castle 292Portumna Castle &

    Gardens 228

    390390

    IND

    EX B-C

  • Ross Castle 186Termonfeckin Castle 102Trim Castle 98-9, 163-4Tynte’s Castle 208

    Castletown House 83-4, 114Castletownbere 224Castletownshend 256-7Cathedral of the

    Assumption 130Causeway Coast Way 52,

    320Céide Fields 250-1, 346-8Celbridge 83-4, 114cell phones 23, 385Celtic & Prehistoric Museum

    192Charles Fort 220-1Charlie Chaplin Comedy Film

    Festival 183Chester Beatty Library 170Christ Church Cathedral 170churches & cathedrals

    Cashel Cathedral 109Cathedral of the

    Assumption 130Christ Church Cathedral

    170Church of St Mary 140Cloncha Church 340Clonfert Cathedral 92Collegiate Church of

    St Nicholas of Myra 311Franciscan Friary

    (Clonmel) 237Franciscan Friary

    (Killarney) 201-2Franciscan Friary

    (Rossnowlagh) 330Layde Old Church 356, 363St Anne’s Church 243St Canice’s Cathedral 169St Carthage’s

    Cathedral 157St Colman’s Cathedral 207St Columb’s Cathedral 358

    St Declan’s Church 150St Fin Barre’s Cathedral

    242St Gobban’s Church 52St Mary’s Cathedral

    (Killarney) 201St Mary’s Cathedral

    (Limerick) 230St Mary’s Church 282-3St Mary’s Church of

    Ireland 231St Mary’s Collegiate

    Church 208St Patrick’s Cathedral 170Tullyaughnish Church 324

    Church Island 183Church of St Mary 140Clare, County 303-9Clarinbridge 94, 253-5Classiebawn Castle 300Claycastle 154Clifden 38, 46, 92, 95Cliffs of Moher 19, 38-41,

    306-7climate 22Cloghane 194-5Clogherhead 102Clonakilty 213-14, 217, 221-2Cloncha Church 340Clonegal 132-3Clonfert Cathedral 92Clonmacnoise 91, 95, 108-9,

    111, 117Clonmel 236-7, 241Cobh 207-8, 209Coleman Irish Music Centre

    69Collegiate Church of

    St Nicholas of Myra 311Collins, Michael 213, 221-2Cong 282, 285Connemara 12, 257Connemara National Park

    284, 285Connor Pass 195

    cooking schools 150, 216Cooley Cross 339Cork 13, 28-9, 58, 205-6,

    214-16, 242-3, 257accommodation 61, 209,

    217, 259 festivals 205, 206food 61, 209, 217, 259

    Cork Butter Museum 243 Cork City Gaol 206Cork Film Festival 206Corlea Trackway 118costs 23County Clare 303-9County Donegal 329-35County Sligo 295-301County Sligo Golf

    Course 298Craiceann Inis Oírr

    International Bodhrán Summer School 268

    Crawford Municipal Art Gallery 242

    credit cards 382Croagh Patrick 252Cromane Peninsula 180Cromwell, Oliver 100Crookhaven 223crystal 150Cúirt International Festival of

    Literature 252Culdaff 343Cultúrlann McAdam

    Ó Fiaich 368currency 22Cushendall 356, 359Cushendun 363-4, 367Cushlough Bay 283

    Ddangers, see safetyDeath of Innocence Mural 371Delphi 284, 285Delta Sensory Gardens 131-2

    391391

    IND

    EX C-D

  • Derry 64, 321, 338-9, 358, 370-1accommodation 327, 359food 359

    Derrynane House 203Derrynane National Historic

    Park 44-5, 202-3Desmond Castle 214, 231, 255Diamond Hill 284Dingle Oceanworld 192Dingle Peninsula 17, 57,

    189-97Dingle Peninsula

    Museum 194Dingle Town 42, 192, 256

    accommodation 47, 61, 197, 259

    food 47, 61, 197, 259disabilities, travellers with

    385Doe Castle 324-5Dog’s Bay 275dolphin-watching 192, 256Donegal Castle 67, 349Donegal, County 329-35Donegal Gaeltacht 350Donegal Town 330, 349, 351Doolin 56, 94, 95, 268, 269Downhill Demesne 358Downings 327, 333-4driving 373-7

    automobile associations 376

    car hire 22, 373documents 373, 374driving licences 373fuel 22, 257, 375-6insurance 373maps 374, 376parking 375road rules 374, 375safety 374-5, 376websites 376

    driving licences 373

    Drogheda 100, 103, 166, 167Druid Theatre 253Drumcliff 299Dublin 10, 36, 50-1, 90-1,

    162-3, 170-1accommodation 46, 60,

    95, 167food 46, 60, 95, 167

    Dublin Zoo 162Duckett’s Grove 132Duiske Abbey 142Dún Aengus 56, 92, 268, 305Dún an Óir Fort 194Dunbeg Fort 42, 192Dunbrody Abbey 148Dunbrody Country House 148Dunbrody Famine Ship 72Dunfanaghy 53, 60, 327,

    333, 335Dungarvan 150, 151, 208Dungarvan Castle 150, 208Dunguaire Castle 94Dunlewey 66, 74, 332, 335Dunluce Castle 357-8Dunmore Cave 139Dunseverick Castle 52Dunquin 193Durrus 212-13Dursey Island 224DVDs 384

    EEaskey 291electricity 380emergencies 22, 377, 382English Market 214-15, 242Ennis 41-2, 46-7, 262-4, 269,

    304-5, 309Ennis Friary 304-5 Enniscorthy 72, 75, 146-7, 151Enniscrone 291, 348, 351Enniskerry 86, 87, 122, 127Ennistymon 264, 269, 307,

    309

    Ennistymon Horse Market 307

    Erris Head 346exchange rates 382Eyeries 224Eyre Square 311

    FFahan 323Fahan beehive huts 193Fair Head 364Father Mathew Statue 243Father McDyer’s

    Folk Village 326festivals & events

    Ballina Salmon Festival 290

    Brandon Regatta 195Carlingford Oyster

    Festival 166Charlie Chaplin Comedy

    Film Festival 183Clarinbridge Oyster

    Festival 94, 253Cork Film Festival 206Craiceann Inis Oírr

    International Bodhrán Summer School 268

    Cúirt International Festival of Literature 252

    Galway Film Fleadh 252Galway International Arts

    Festival 252Galway International

    Oyster & Seafood Festival 252

    Galway Race Week 252Guinness Jazz Festival 206Inishbofin Arts Festival 284Kilmore Quay Seafood

    Festival 147Kinsale Gourmet

    Festival 214Laytown Races 165Lughnasa 194-5

    392392

    IND

    EX D-F

  • North West 200 Road Race 324

    Puck Fair 180, 202Rose of Tralee 196Seafood Festival 214Taste of West Cork Food

    Festival 213Town of Books Festival 142Waterford Festival of

    Food 150West Cork Chamber Music

    Festival 205West Waterford Drama

    Festival 158Willie Clancy Irish Summer

    School 264film locations 276, 282Fintown Railway 326fishing 155-6Flagstaff Viewpoint 166folk music 15, 21food 21, 23, 380-1Fort Dunree 342forts

    Caherconnell Fort 57Charles Fort 220-1Dún Aengus 56, 92, 268,

    305Dún an Óir Fort 194Dunbeg Fort 42, 192Fort Dunree 342Grianán of Aileách 65-6

    Fota House 206-7Fota Wildlife Park 206-7Fountain Housing

    Estate 370Foynes 231Franciscan Friary

    (Clonmel) 237Franciscan Friary

    (Killarney) 201-2Franciscan Friary

    (Rossnowlagh) 330Free Derry Corner 371

    Front Strand 154fuel 22, 257, 375-6

    GGaeilge 386Gallarus Oratory 194galleries, see museums &

    galleriesGaltee Mountains 240Galway City 12, 26, 36-8, 70,

    92, 253, 262, 272-3, 280, 310-11accommodation 46, 74, 95,

    258, 269, 277 festivals 252food 46, 258, 277

    Galway City Museum 70, 310Gap of Dunloe 185gardens, see parks &

    gardensGarinish Island (Ilnacullin)

    224, 256gas 22, 257, 375-6gay travellers 382gemstones 342Giant’s Causeway 18, 52-3,

    60, 320, 356, 357, 366Glandore 257Glanteenassig Forest

    Recreation Area 196glass 132Glassilaun Beach 275-6Gleann Mór 284Glebe Gallery 334Glebe Gardens 214Glen of Aherlow 238Glenariff Forest

    Park 363, 367Glencolumbcille 67, 74,

    326, 335Glencree 122-4Glendalough 15, 85-6, 87,

    110, 125-6, 127Glendalough Valley 125

    Glenevin Waterfall 321-3, 327Glengarriff 224, 225, 256, 259Glengesh Pass 66-7Glenmacnass Valley 124Glenmacnass

    Waterfall 124Glenmalure 126, 127Glenveagh National Park

    66, 334golf 141, 183, 298Gougane Barra

    Forest Park 206Graiguenamanagh 142, 143Grange 299-300Green Lane Museum 321Greencastle 339, 343Grianán of Aileách 65-6Guinness Jazz

    Festival 206Guinness Storehouse 50Gurteen 69-70Gurteen Bay 275

    HHall of the Red Earl 310Hazelwood 292health 381Healy Pass 58highlights 10-19, 33Hill of Slane 107Hill of Tara 99, 107Hillsborough 355-6, 359Hillsborough Castle 355-6holidays 383Hollow 291Hore Abbey 110, 240Horn Head 53, 325hostels 380House of

    Waterford Crystal 150Howth 82, 87Hunt Museum 230 Huntington Castle 132-3

    393393

    IND

    EX F-H

  • IIlnacullin (Garinish Island)

    224, 256Inch 191Inch Island 334 Inchagoill 280-1Inchiquin 281Inisfallen 186Inishbofin 284, 285Inishbofin Arts Festival 284 Inisheer 268, 269, 306, 309Inishmaan 305, 309Inishmór 56, 92-3, 268, 305

    accommodation 61, 95, 269, 309

    Inishowen Head 340Inishowen Peninsula 337-43Iniskeel Island 326Inistioge 141-2, 143insurance 373, 382internet access 23, 381Iskaheen 321, 339

    JJames Joyce Museum 86Jameson Whiskey 208, 216Jerpoint Abbey 110, 140Jerpoint Glass Studio 132

    KKells 139-40Kenmare 43-4, 57-8, 184, 203

    accommodation 47, 61, 187, 209

    food 47, 61, 187Kenmare Heritage Centre 203Kenmare Lace & Design

    Centre 203Kerry Bog Village Museum

    180Kerry County Museum 196Kilcrohane 224

    Kilfenora 265Kilgraney House Herb

    Gardens 134Kilkee 232, 233Kilkenny 71-2, 75, 138-9, 143,

    168-9Kilkenny Castle 71-2, 168Killala 290Killaloe 228Killarney 43, 178-9, 190-1,

    201-2 accommodation 47, 187,

    197 food 47, 197

    Killarney National Park 43, 185, 201

    Killary Harbour 252Killashee 118Killorglin 45, 180, 187, 202,

    209Killybegs 350, 351Kilmore Quay 73, 75, 147, 151Kilmore Quay Seafood

    Festival 147 Kilmurvey 93, 305Kilree High Cross 140Kilree Round Tower 140Kilrush 232, 308, 309Kinsale 214, 217, 220-1Kinsale Gourmet Festival 214Kinvara 93-4Knocknadobar 181Kylemore Abbey 276

    LLackan Bay 290languages 22, 386-7Layde Old Church 356, 363Laytown Races 165 Leacanabuile 181Leenane 252-3, 258Leighlinbridge 134lesbian travellers 382Letterkenny 74, 335

    Lewis Glucksman Gallery 242, 257

    Limerick City 229-31, 233Limerick City Gallery of Art

    230Lisdoonvarna 267Lismore 156-8, 159Lissadell House 299Londonderry 358, see also

    DerryLoop Head 232, 308Lord Brandon’s Cottage 185Lough Corrib 280-2Lough Gill 292 Loughcrew Cairns 107-8Loughrea Peninsula 66Luggala 124Lughnasa 194-5Lynch’s Castle 311

    MMagan’s 118Magazine Gate 370Malin Beg 332Malin Head 340-2maps 374, 376Maritime & Heritage Centre

    350Maritime Museum 339markets 159, 214-15, 233,

    242, 307Mathew, Father Theobald 243measures 384medical services 382Medieval Museum 150Meenaleck 325Mellifont Abbey 100-2Michael Collins Centre 221-2Midleton 208, 216Millmount Museum 100, 166Miltown Malbay 264Mizen Head Peninsula 222-3,

    225mobile phones 23, 385

    394394

    IND

    EX I-M

  • Model 296Monasterboice 102money 22, 23, 382-3motorcycles, see drivingMount Juliet 141Moville 343Mt Brandon 194Mt Errigal 350, 351Mt Leinster 133Mt Melleray Cistercian Abbey

    156 Mt Mweelrea 252Mt Stewart House 354Muckross Abbey 186Muckross Estate 186Muckross Traditional Farms

    186Mullaghmore 300, 301Mullingar 119Mullin’s Castle 140Museum of Free Derry 371museums & galleries

    Bishop’s Palace 150Blasket Centre 193Braid Museum 362-3Brú Ború 240Butter Museum 214 Carlow County Museum

    130Céide Fields Interpretive

    Centre 250Celtic & Prehistoric

    Museum 192Cobh, the Queenstown

    Story 207Cork Butter Museum 243Crawford Municipal Art

    Gallery 242Dingle Peninsula Museum

    194Foynes Flying Boat

    Museum 231Galway City Museum 70,

    310Glebe Gallery 334

    Green Lane Museum 321Hunt Museum 230James Joyce Museum 86Kenmare Heritage Centre

    203Kenmare Lace & Design

    Centre 203Kerry Bog Village Museum

    180Kerry County Museum 196Lewis Glucksman Gallery

    242, 257Limerick City Gallery of

    Art 230Maritime & Heritage

    Centre 350Maritime Museum 339Medieval Museum 150Michael Collins Centre

    221-2Millmount Museum 100,

    166Model 296Museum of Free Derry 371National 1798 Rebellion

    Centre 72, 147National Craft Gallery &

    Design Centre 168National Museum of

    Country Life 70National Museum of

    Ireland – Archaeology & History 90-1, 171

    National Museum of Ireland – Natural History 171

    Nore View Folk Museum 139

    Old Barracks Heritage Centre 202

    Old Market House Arts Centre 208

    People’s Gallery 371Rothe House & Garden 169Skibbereen Heritage

    Centre 222

    Sligo County Museum 67-8, 292

    South Tipperary County Museum 237

    Spiddal Craft & Design Studios 273

    Strokestown Park House & Famine Museum 118

    Tarbert Bridewell Jail & Courthouse 232

    Tower Museum 64, 321, 370

    Ulster Museum 356Waterford County Museum

    208Waterford Museum of

    Treasures 148-50Yeats Memorial Building

    296music 15, 21, 261-9, 376Mussenden Temple 358Myrtle Grove 208

    NNarin 326, 327National 1798 Rebellion

    Centre 72, 147National Craft Gallery &

    Design Centre 168National Museum of Country

    Life 70National Museum of Ireland –

    Archaeology & History 90-1, 171

    National Museum of Ireland – Natural History 171

    national parks, see also parks & gardensBallycroy National Park

    289-90Connemara National Park

    284, 285Derrynane National

    Historic Park 44-5, 202-3Glenveagh National Park

    66, 334

    395395

    IND

    EX M-N

  • national parks continued Gougane Barra Forest

    Park 206Killarney National Park 43,

    185, 201Neale 282New Ross 72Newgrange 164Newgrange Farm 165Newmills Corn & Flax Mills

    334Newtown 238-9, 241Nore View Folk Museum 139North West 200 Road Race

    324

    OO’Brien’s Castle 306Old Barracks Heritage

    Centre 202Old Bushmills

    Distillery 366Old Market House Arts

    Centre 208O’Malley, Grace 290Omey Island 284Omey Strand 284One Man’s Pass 350opening hours 383Organ 366Oughterard 276outdoor activities 21, see

    also individual activitiesoysters 94, 166, 252, 253

    PParke’s Castle 292parking 375parks & gardens, see also

    national parksAltamont Gardens 132Ards Forest Park 333Belvedere House &

    Gardens 117-18

    Bishop Lucey Park 215Cappoquin House &

    Gardens 155-6Carlow Garden Trail 134Delta Sensory Gardens

    131-2Derrynane National

    Historic Park 202-3Fota House arboretum 207Garinish Island 256Glebe Gardens 214Glenariff Forest Park 363,

    367Kilgraney House Herb

    Gardens 134Kylemore Abbey 276Muckross Estate 186Portumna Castle &

    Gardens 228Rothe House & Garden 169Vandeleur Walled Garden

    232, 308Passage Coast Road 150Patrick Pearse’s Cottage

    273-4Peace Line 369Peadar O’Donnell’s 370Pearse, Pádraig 273-4People’s Gallery 371petrol 22, 257, 375-6photography 383Pickie Family Fun Park 354Pigeon Hole 282Plassy 306police 377Port Chorrúch 93Portbradden 52Portmagee 45Portrush 358, 359Portstewart 320-1, 327Portumna 228Portumna Castle & Gardens

    228Powerscourt Estate 86, 122Powerscourt Waterfall 86

    prehistoric sites 19, 20, see also ancient sites & ruins

    public holidays 383Puck Fair 180, 202

    QQuiet Man Bridge 276Quiet Man, The 276Quirke, Michael 300

    Rradio 373, 376Raleigh, Sir Walter 208Rathlin Island 319, 364-6,

    367Rathlin Seabird Centre 365Rathmelton 324, 327Rathmullan 324refunds 384Reginald’s Tower 148, 150Republic of Ireland 321Riasc Monastic Settlement

    194Ring of Kerry 18, 57, 177-87Riverstown 297-8road distances 374road rules 373, 374, 375roads, best for driving 13roads, types of 374-5Rock of Cashel 17, 71, 109,

    240Roe Valley 321Rose of Tralee 196Ross Castle 186 Rossbeigh Strand 180-1Rosses Point 298, 301Rossnowlagh 330, 348, 351Rothe House & Garden 169Rough Point Peninsula 195Roundstone 38, 274, 277ruins, see ancient sites &

    ruinsRussborough House 84, 85

    396396

    IND

    EX N-R

  • Ssafety 374-5, 376, 383-4sailing 253Saltee Islands 73, 148Salthill 280Sandycove 86, 87Seafood Festival 214seaweed baths 292, 298,

    348Shannon River 227-33 Shannonbridge 119Sheep’s Head Peninsula 224Sinn Féin Headquarters 368Skellig Michael 44Skellig Ring 181Skibbereen 213, 222, 225Skibbereen Heritage Centre

    222Sky Road 38Slane 107Slea Head 42, 192-3Slemish 356Slieve Bloom Mountains 116Slieve League 67, 332, 350Slievemore Deserted Village

    289Sligo Abbey 348Sligo, County 295-301Sligo County Museum 67-8,

    292Sligo Folk Park 297-8Sligo Town 53, 67-9, 292,

    296, 348, 351accommodation 61, 293,

    301food 60-1, 74, 293, 301

    Slish Wood 292smoking laws 384Sneem 184, 187Sonairte 164-5South Tipperary County

    Museum 237Spanish Arch 310

    speed limit 373Spiddal 273, 277Spiddal Craft & Design

    Studios 273St Anne’s Church 243St Canice’s Cathedral 169St Carthage’s Cathedral 157St Colman’s Cathedral 207St Columb’s Cathedral 358St Declan’s Church 150St Fin Barre’s Cathedral 242St John’s Point 330-2, 335St Mary’s Cathedral

    (Killarney) 201St Mary’s Cathedral

    (Limerick) 230St Mary’s Church 282-3St Mary’s Church of Ireland

    231St Mary’s Collegiate Church

    208St Mullins 133-4, 135St Mura Cross 323St Patrick’s Cathedral 170stone circles

    Ahakista 224Ardgroom 224 Carrowkeel Megalithic

    Cemetery 296-7Kenmare 184

    Stonyford 132 Strandhill 298, 301Streedagh Beach 299-300Strokestown 118surfing 300, 348, 358Synge, JM 305

    TTarbert 232Taste of West Cork Food

    Festival 213taxes 384Teach Synge 305telephone services 23, 384-5

    Temple of the Winds 354Termonfeckin 102Tholsel 168Thomastown 140, 143Thompson Graving Dock 319time 384Tintern Abbey 147-8tipping 23, 382-3Titanic Belfast 51-2, 319Titanic Experience Cobh 207tollways 375, 377Torc Waterfall 186Tory Island 332-3tourist information 385Tourmakeady 283Tower Museum 64, 321, 370Town of Books Festival 142traditional music 15, 21traffic information 376Tralee 196, 197transport 23, 378-9, see

    also drivingTrim 98-9, 103, 163-4, 167Trim Castle 98-9, 163-4Trinity College 36, 170Tullamore 115-16, 119Tullyaughnish Church 324Tulsk 108TV 384Twelve Bens 284Tynte’s Castle 208

    UUlster Museum 356Ulster Tower 369Union Hall 257

    Vvacations 383Valentia Island 45, 181Vandeleur Walled Garden

    232, 308Vee Gap 158

    397397

    IND

    EX S-V

  • vegetarian travellers 381Ventry 192-6views 20Vinegar Hill 146-7visas 22, 385

    Wwaterfalls

    Assarancagh Waterfall 326 Glenevin Waterfall 321-3Glenmacnass Waterfall 124 Powerscourt Waterfall 86 Torc Waterfall 186 Tourmakeady Waterfall

    283Waterford City 148-50, 151Waterford County Museum

    208

    Waterford Festival of Food 150

    Waterford Museum of Treasures 148-50

    Waterville 183-4, 187weather 22websites 23, 376weights 384West Cork Chamber Music

    Festival 205West Waterford Drama

    Festival 158Westport 53-5, 251-2, 258,

    288-9, 293Westport House 252, 289Wexford Town 72-3, 75whiskey

    Jameson Whiskey 208, 216Old Bushmills Distillery 366

    Tullamore Dew Whiskey 115-16

    White Park Bay 52Wicklow Gap 126Wicklow Mountains 121-7wi-fi 23, 381Willie Clancy Irish Summer

    School 264winter solstice 164woodcarving 300

    YYeats’ grave 299Yeats Memorial Building 296Yeats, WB 296, 299Youghal 154, 159, 208

    398398

    IND

    EX W-Y

  • CATHERINE LE NEVEZ

    Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe aged four. She’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-graduate qualifications in editing and publishing along the way. Catherine’s Celtic connections include Irish and Breton heritage, and a love of Guinness. She’s travelled extensively throughout every county in the Emerald Isle, which she’s covered over the past decade-plus for numerous Lonely Planet articles and guides.

    ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

  • OUR WRITERS

    FIONN DAVENPORT

    Irish by birth and conviction, Fionn has been writing about his native country for more than two decades. He’s come and gone over the years, pulled abroad to escape Dublin’s comfortable stasis and by the promise of adventure, but it has cemented his belief that Ireland remains his favourite place to visit, if not always live in. These days, he has a weekly commute home to Dublin from Manchester, where he lives with his partner Laura and their car Trevor. In Dublin he presents Inside Culture on RTE Radio 1 and writes travel features for a host of publications, including The Irish Times.

    Read more about Isabel at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/isabelalbiston

    ISABEL ALBISTON

    After growing up near Belfast, Isabel spent the next 15 years travelling and living all over the world. She has written for newspapers and magazines while based in London, Sydney and Buenos Aires; she has also worked on Lonely Planet titles such as Borneo and Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei. But it’s in coming home that she’s been able to fully appreciate this beautiful corner of the world, from the bracing breezes of the Atlantic coast to the warmth of its cosy pubs.

    OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end –

    broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

    Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

    MORE WRITERS

    Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, dis-claim all liability arising from its use.

    Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541532nd edition – March 2017ISBN 978 1 7865 732 85© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission

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