Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking
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Transcript of Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking
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Swiss MadeSuccess story
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Artem SkachkovMarketing manager at Noblesse
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Watch of XXI century
PhoneThe most reliable and practical watch in 2013
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Facts & FiguresSwiss watch industry in facts & figures
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Swiss watch industrySwitzerland
Area: 41 284 km² Population: 7 700 200 people GDP: more than $ 636 billion Languages: French, German, Italian,
Romansh Government: federal republic Districts: 26 cantons Capital: Bern
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Swiss watch industrySwitzerland
Export: 19 300 mln. EURO Produced: 29.8 mln. pieces Production centers: cantons Vaud,
Geneve, Neuchatel, Jura
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Watch sales
Quantity Value2%
60%
7%
18%
10%
15%
81%
7%
Switzerland Japan Others China
*data from research of Harward Business School, 2010
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Watch facts
1 mmHeight of Rado ceramic case
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Watch facts
1 200 mWaterresistance of Omega watch
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Watch facts
1 500 partsMake up Franck Muller movement
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Watch facts
0,2 sm2 Area of Jaeger-LeCoultre watch
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Watch facts
10 vibrationsMakes every second balance wheel of Zenith watch
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Watch facts
840 Co
Temperature at the oven to produce Ulysse Nardin dial
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Professional languageBasic terms of fine watchmaking
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Watch types
Mechanical Quartz
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Watch types
Self-wound Hand-wound
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Watch types
Self-wound Hand-wound
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Watch types
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Watch dictionary
MovementIMPORTANT! Terms and names
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Watch dictionary
EscapementA mechanism that is fitted
between the gears and the regulating organ to suspend the gears' motion at regular intervals
Pendulum
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Watch dictionary
BalanceA circular, moving part which
oscillates on its rotational axis
Heart
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Watch dictionary
BezelA ring around the case
middle that secures the crystal.
Top ring
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Watch dictionary
GuillocheA decorative engraving
technique in which a precise intricate repetitive pattern or design is mechanically engraved into an underlying material with fine detail
Decoration
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Watch dictionary
CalibreA synonym of size. Used to
denote the layout and dimensions of the different movement pillars, wheels, barrel, etc.
Movement
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Watch dictionary
JewelsAn international term for the
jewels (rubies) in a watch movement that are used as bearings for pivots to reduce friction.
Bearings
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Watch dictionary
VibrationsMovement of a pendulum or
oscillating body between two extreme positions. An oscillation ("tick-tock") equals two vibrations
Tick-Tock
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Watch dictionary
RotorA semi-circular disc that
freely rotates with each movement of the arm to automatically wind the mainspring.
Winding
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Watch dictionary
ChronographA watch combined with a
mechanism which can be started, stopped and returned to zero on demand to measure intervals of time
Stop-watch
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Watch dictionary
ChronometerA high-precision watch displaying
seconds whose movement has been controlled over a period of several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body
Precise watch
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HistoryFrom home manufacture to stock exchange
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Watch history
Marine chronometerWatches with gyroscope
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Watch historyJohn Calvin
Birth: 10 july 1509 Education: theology, law Reforms:
Creation of city council Death penalty
Ideas: “Life at the wealth, death in
the poverty” “Denial of decorations”
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Watch historyGeography
Area: mountains of Alps and Jura Average temperature: from +4 to
+6 Precipitation: up 2 000 sm/year Language: French Cantons: Geneva, Vaud, Neuchatel
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Watch history
WorkshopHome-based production of watch components
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Watch history
ManufactureIndustrial watch production
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Watch history
EvolutionFrom pocket to wrist watch
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Watch historyRapid Development factors
Innovative progress in: Aviation Diving Military Engineering
Pursue of precision Coroporate and government orders
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Watch history
Quartz crisisApparent death of Swiss watch industry
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Watch historyQuartz crisis
Quartz watches: Battery powered Highest precision No winding Digital\ analogue display
Fuel crisis: USD value fall CHF value growth
Results: Production fall from 90 000
pieces to 33 000 pieces
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Ernest SchneyderBreitling
Franck MullerFanck Muller
Nicolas Hayek
SWATCH
Gunter BlumleinRichemont
Rolf W. Schneider
Ulysse Nardin
Watch history
RenaissanceFounding fathers of new Swiss watch industry
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Founding fathers
Gunter Blumlein
• Life: 1944-2001• Company: LMH (in 1981) – later a
grew into Richemont Group• Brands: IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
A.Lange & Sohne• Gave second life to A.Lange&Sohne• “Savior” of Jaeger-LeCoultre from
bankruptcy
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Founding fathers
Franck Muller
• Life: 1958-present• Company: Franck Muller Group
(founded in 1991)• Master of Complications• Watchmaker (Ecole d'Horlogerie de
Genève)• Co-Founder and partner – Vartan
Sirmakes
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Founding fathers
Nicolas Hayer
• Life: 1928-2010• Company: Swatch Group (from
1985)• Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Omega,
Jaquet Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilton, Swatch, CK
• Engineer, 2 PHDs• Creator of SMART car• “King” of Swiss watches• 232nd wealthiest person
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Founding fathers
Rolf W. Schnyder
• Life: 1935-2011• Company: Ulysse Nardin (bought in
1983)• Traveler, athlete• Most of the life spent in Asia
(Malaysia, Thailand, China, Vietnam)
• Worked with Ludwig Oechslin
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Founding fathers
Ernest Schneider
• Life: 1921-present• Company: Breitling (bought in
1979)• Professional pilot• Watchmaker and microelectronics
engineer• Non-public person• Lead Breitling to manufacture status
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Watch history
Manufacture Modern production site
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BrandsTOP watch brands
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Watch brands
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Watch brandsBreguet
Founded: 1775 Founder: Abraham-
Louis Breget Brand meaning:
Founder’s last name Town: Valle-de-Joux
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Watch brandsAchievements
Invented tourbillon Invented hairspring Created dial guilloche Produced first wrist
watch
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Watch brandsHublot
Founded: 1980 Founder: Carlo Crocco Brand meaning: in
French bull`s eye Town: Nyon (suburbs of
Geneva)
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Watch brandsAchievements
First watch on rubber bracelet
Proficency in material combination (titanium, ceramics, etc.)
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Watch brandsIWC
Founded: 1868 Founder: Florentine
Ariosto Jones Brand meaning: short
for International Watch Company
Town: Schaffhausen
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Watch brandsAchievements
The only watch company in German speaking Switzerland
Masculine brand Programmed calendar
for 500 years Classical pilot watches
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Watch brandsJaeger-LeCoultre
Founded: 1833 Founder: Antoine
LeCoultre Brand meaning: names
of partners (Edmond Jaeger and Jaques-Davide LeCoultre)
Town: Valle-de-Joux
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Watch brandsAchievements
Creator of milionometer
Full cycle manufacturing
Inventor of gyrotourbillon
Development of Extreme LAB watch
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Watch brandsOmega
Founded: 1848 Founder: Louis Brandt Brand meaning: fro
calibre named Omega (idea of perfectness)
Town: Biel/Bienne
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Watch brandsAchievements
Watch of Apollo 11 astronauts
Olympics’ official timekeeper
James Bond watch Development of Co-
Axial escapment
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Watch brandsPatek Philippe
Founded: 1839 Founders: Antoni Patek
and Fransua Chapek Brand meaning: name of
partners (Antoni Patek and Jean-Adrien Philippe
Town: Plan-les-Ouates
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Watch brandsAchievements
Inventor of crown #1 at antiquarian
auctions Champion of precision
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Watch brandsRomain Jerome
Founded: 2004 Founder: N\A Brand meaning: N\A Town: Geneva
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Watch brandsAchievements
Watches with Titanic parts
Watches with Moon dust and parts of Apollo 11
Developer of capsule collection concept
Watches for professional golfers
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Watch brandsRolex
Founded: 1908 Founder: Hans Wilsdorf Brand meaning: N\A Town: Biel/Bienne
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Watch brandsAchievements
Waterresistance record Largest watch
production First automatic watch First certified
chronometer
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Watch brandsUlysse Nardin
Founded: 1846 Founder: Ulysse Nardin Brand meaning: name
of the founder Town: Le Lockle and
La Chaux-de-Fonds
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Watch brandsAchievements
Most reliable marine chronometers
Most complicated watches – Guiness book of records
The only jaquemarts watches
Watches with silicon parts
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Watch brandsVacheron Constantin
Founded: 1755 Founder: Jean-Mark
Vacheron Brand meaning: name
of partners (Jaques-Barthélemy Vacheron and François Constantin)
Town: Plan-les-Ouates
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Watch brandsAchievements
Most ancient manufacture
First antimagnetic watch
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BusinessWatch holdings, fairs and rewards
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Swatch Group
Watch business
LVMHRolex Group
Franck Muller Group
Richemont Group
Holding companiesLargest conglomerates
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Watch businessFMG
Franck Muller Group
• Fonded: 1991• Brands:
• Franck Muller, CVSTOS, Pierre Kunz, Backes&Strauss, Martin Braun, Smalto, European Watch Company, Rodolphe, Roberto Cavalli, Pierre Michel Golay
• President: Vartan Sirmakes
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Watch businessLVMH
Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy
• Founded: 1987• Brands:
• Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Dior, BVLGARI, Chaumet
• President: Bernard Arnault
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Watch businessRichemont Group(ex-LMH: Les Manufactures
Horlogeres)
• Founded: 1986• Brands:
• A.Lange&Sohne, Dunhill, Baume&Mercier, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Montblanc, Panerai, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef&Arpels, Ralph Lauren
• President: Johann Peter Rupert
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Watch business
Rolex Group
• Founded: 1946• Brands:
• Rolex, Tudor• President: Gian Riccardo Marini
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Watch businessSwatch Group
(ex-SMH: Swiss Corporation for Microelectronics and Watchmaking
Industries)
• Founded: 1985• Brands:
• Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilton, Balmain, Certina, Mido, Endura, Swatch, Calvin Klein, Flik Flak, Leon Hatot
• President: Neyla Hayek• CEO: Nick Hayek
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Watch fairs
Baselworld
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Watch fairs
SIHHSalon International de la Haute Horlogerie
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Watch fairs
WPHHWorld Presentation of Haute Horlogerie
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PriceWatch complications scale
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Watch complications
Small second
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Watch complications
Power reserve
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Watch complications
Date
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Watch complications
Big date
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Watch complications
Day of the week
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Watch complications
Month
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Watch complications
Moonphase
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Watch complications
Retrograde hands
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Watch complications
Chronograph
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Watch complications
Dual Time
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Watch complications
GMT
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Watch complications
Alarm
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Watch complications
Skeletonized dial
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Watch complications
Annual calendar
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Watch complications
Perpetual calendar
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Watch complications
Minute repeater
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Watch complications
Jaquemarts
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Watch complications
Tourbillon
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Watch priceMaterials
Platinum Gold Titanium Carbon fibre Steel Composite materials Rare materials
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After sales serviceTaking care of Swiss watches
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Watch service
AtmosThe only perpetual watch
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Watch serviceReasons
Strokes Temperature (oil inside) Water (waterristance
rules) Scratches Time (full service)
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Watch service
Service centerRepairs are made at certified service center only
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Watch service
WatchwinderTaking care of automatic watches
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Watch service
Leather strapService period up to 1.5 years
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Watch waterresistance
•No water contact
< 30m (3am)•Mi
nimum water contact - hand washed with watches on
30m - 50m
•Some contact with water -car washed with watches on
50m - 100m
•Swimming with watches on
100m - 200m
•Active leisure on water with watches on
200m - 500m
•Diving with watches on
>500m (50am)
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Watch waterresistance
CrownNever use in water!
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Thank you!
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Swiss DoneQ&As